53 Beautiful writing is highly prized both in China and Japan. Caligraphy, says Mr. S. W. Bushell (Chinese Art, p. 31), is a branch of the fine arts in China, and the penman who can write elegantly in sweeping lines with a flowing brush is ranked above the artist.

54 In this process of metal inlay, the ground is broken up by means of an engraver’s tool, the pattern formed of silver wire, hammered in.

55 The widow of Atsumori who was killed in the fight here referred to, in 1184, is credited with the invention of the folding-fan, although dates are somewhat confusing. At the temple of Mieido in Kyoto, whither she had retired to hide her grief under the garb of a nun, she cured the abbot of a fever by fanning him with a paper folding-fan over which she muttered incantations: and to this day the priests of the temple are considered special adepts in the manufacture of fans; hence the name Mieido is adopted by many fan shops all over the islands. (Basil Chamberlain, Things Japanese.)

56 The fan was used as crest by many Japanese families. A number of examples are given in Mrs. Salwey’s Fans of Japan.

57 Henri L. Joly, Legend in Japanese Art.

58 Mrs. Salwey, Fans of Japan.

59 Ode from the Manyoshin, translated by Basil Chamberlain.

60 Transactions of the Japan Society, vol. v. Paper by Mrs. Salwey on Pastimes and Amusements of the Japanese.

61 In the MusÉe Guimet, Paris, is a tea-service, fine in execution, signed ‘Kawamoto Hansouke,’ an artist of the province of Owari, the saucers being shaped like fans. In the same collection is a large plate, fourteen inches in its longest dimension, shaped like a folding-fan.

62 Francis Parkman, La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West.

63 Miss Kingsley refers to their use at Egaja, ‘for the purpose of battling with the evening cloud of sand-flies.’

64 In the liturgy of St. Chrysostom, after the Benedictus—‘Supra sancta ventilet reverenter flabello. Si desit flabellum, velo idem praestat.’ (Divina Missa S. Joan. Chrysostomi, Goar. Rituale Graecorum. p. 76.)

65 Smith, Dictionary of Christian Antiquities.

66 ‘A.D. 1214, Ornamenta Ecclesie Sarum, inventa in Thesauraria. ij. flabella de serico et pergameno.’

67 Dugdale, History of St. Paul’s.

68 ‘Manubrium flabelli argentum deauratum, ex dono Joh. Newton, thesaurarii, cum ymagine Episcopi in fine enamelyd, pond. v. unc.’

69 Registrum Roff. p. 554.

70 Journal of the ArchÆological Association, vol. xxvi.

71 ArchÆological Journal, vol. v.

72 Pauli Paciandi de Umbellae Gestatione Commentarius, Romae, 1752, p. lxiii.

74 Memorials of London and London Life in the Thirteenth, Fourteenth, and Fifteenth Centuries, by Henry Thomas Riley.

75 Revue de l’Art ChrÉtien, 1883. Les Disques crucifÈres, le Flabellum, et l’umbella.

76 Harl. MSS. 3601, the date 1295-6, edited by J. W. Clark.

77 Un esmouchior de drap d’or, a fleur-de-lys, escartelÉ des armes de France et de Navarre a un baston d’yvoire et de geste, prisÉ v Francs d’or.—Du Cange.

78 Viollet-le-Duc.

79 Blondel.

80 Henry F. Holt, Journal of the ArchÆological Association, vol. xxvi. (1870).

81 Elle donna À la reyne Louise de Lorraine une fois pour ses estreines ung esventail faict de nacre de perles, enrichy de pierreries et grosses perles, si beau et si riche, qu’on disoit estre un chef d’oeuvre, et l’estimoit on À plus de quinze cens escus.—Pierre de Bourdeilles, Seigneur de BrantÔme, MÉmoires des dames illustrÉes de France.

82 Sir John Cullam, Bart., History of Hawsted.

83 Dr. Birdwood, Report on Old Records in the India Office, 1898.

84 Sir John Francis Davis, F.R.S., The Chinese.

85 Fans of the Ancients, p. 27.

86 A. C. Fox-Davies, Complete Guide to Heraldry.

87 Ibid.

88 Omnium pene Europae, Asiae, Aphricae, atque Americae Gentium habitus. Antwerp, 1581.

89 It is extremely improbable that this fan leaf had ever any connection with the story given above. It probably belongs to the latter years of the seventeenth, or the early years of the eighteenth century.

90 M. Édouard Petit has written an exhaustive monograph on the manufacture of fans, Études, souvenirs et considÉrations sur la fabrication de l’Éventail. Versailles, 1859.

91 Art and Ornament in Dress.

92 Fans of scented wood had, earlier, been introduced into the French Court by Anne of Austria.

93 S. Redgrave, South Kensington Catalogue of Fan Exhibition, 1870.

94 One of the most potent earlier influences on Spanish painting was that of Titian, who, although probably never in Spain, painted a number of pictures for the Escurial.

95 ‘They all love the feasts of bulls, and strive to appear gloriously fine when they see them.’—Memoirs of Lady Fanshawe.

96 ProcÈs Verbaux, April 26, 1762, Jan. 1765. Lady Dilke, French Painters of the Eighteenth Century, p. 12.

97 Walter Thornbury, Legendary Ballads and Songs.

98 Qui estoit un montagne de chaux vive sur laquelle les gouttes d’eau du ciel tumboient À foison et disoient les mots tels en latin:

99 Des Éventails et pennaches rompus des carquans brisÉs et ses pierreries et perles espandues par terre les chaisnes toutes en pieces!

100 Deux Dialogues du nouveau Langage FranÇois, 1578.

101 Il Étoit d’un vÉlin aussi dÉlicatement dÉcoupÉ qu’il Étoit possible avec la dentelle À l’entour de pareille Étoffe.

102 There are instances in which this order is reversed, the leaf having been preserved and mounted on more modern sticks.

103 Ribbons constantly appear on the fans depicted in Bosse’s engravings, either at the side, half-way up the panache, or at the rivet.

104 The well-known story of the portrait of Christina, painted by Michael Dahl, may be given. One day, while the Queen was sitting to him, she asked him what he intended to put in her hand. ‘A fan, please your Majesty.’ ‘A fan!’ exclaimed Christina, starting up with a tremendous oath. ‘A fan!—A lion, man, is fitter for the Queen of Sweden.’

The Order of the Fan was instituted later by Louisa Ulrica, in 1744, for the ladies of the Swedish court, in which the sterner sex was afterwards included.

105 Letter 491, 8 Mai 1676.

106 Le Brun was appointed ‘premier peintre’ in 1662, with twelve thousand francs a year.

109 Paul Mantz, Gazette des Beaux-Arts, vol. XX.

110 Translation by Henry Smith Wright, B.A.

111 ‘Pantins MÉchanique,’ a performing figure worked by a string, much in vogue at this period. See Engraved Fans of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, part i. page 226.

112 Henri Bouchot, ‘History on Fans’ (Art and Letters, vol. ii.).

113 A congratulatory address on this occasion was offered to the Queen by the market-women of Paris, written by M. de la Harpe on the inside of the fan of the spokeswoman, to which she repeatedly referred without the least embarrassment.—Henry F. Holt, Journal of the ArchÆological Association, vol. xxvi.

114 See Engraved Fans of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries, page 227.

115 Menagiana.

116 Pope had, nearly a century earlier, made allusion to the discontinuance of the fashion:

117 Steevens.

118 See Italian fans, p. 109.

119 Agnes Strickland, Lives of the Queens of England. In most of the early engraved portraits of Catherine of Braganza, the Queen is represented with a folding-fan, in each instance closed; in one instance, that of an equestrian portrait, a large fan is depicted.

120 In Campbell’s London Tradesman, 1747, it is recorded that ‘the Italian mounts are much more in request than anything of our own manufacture, and large prices are given for them.’

121 H. M. Baird, The Huguenots and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes.

122 The Fanmakers’ Company, created by Charter in 1709, for nearly 100 years protected and regulated the trade, until the reduction of protective duties on foreign fans annihilated the English trade. (Notes by Colonel Sewell (Fanmakers’ Company), Schreiber MS., British Museum.)

123 Spectator, No. 296.

124 Tatler, December 29, 1709. Letter No. 113. John Hughes.

125 Spectator, No. 102.

126 E. J. Climenson, Elisabeth Montagu, Queen of the Blue-stockings.

127 The fan of Pope’s epigram was probably Italian. See page 179.

128 ‘Please notice No. 110, which rather points to one of your fans not being by Bartolozzi. Perhaps the “Lady of Quality” was Lady Duncannon.’—Letter by Mr. Lionel Cust to Lady Charlotte Schreiber. Schreiber MSS., British Museum.

129 Schreiber MSS., British Museum. Extracts, p. 100.

130 Journal of the ArchÆological Association, vol. xxvi., 1870.

131 See Meaume, Recherches sur la vie et les ouvrages de Jacques Callot, vol. ii. p. 287.

132 Art and Letters, Jan. 1888.

133 HonorÉ de Balzac (Sur Catherine de MÉdicis).

134 In French salons, about the year 1728, the fashion prevailed of ‘Les Pantins MÉchaniques,’ that every one carried and worked by the aid of strings while chatting of one thing and another. Lacroix, XVIII SiÈcle, France, 1700-87, p. 507.

From 1748 to 1750 it was in high vogue among the beau monde as a diverting plaything for gentlemen and ladies. Wright, Caricature History of the Georges, note, p. 251.

135 The subject of America is returned to later, when in the ‘George Washington’ fan we have in the centre a portrait of Washington, and, ranged on either side, portraits of the succeeding ten presidents of the United States. This, a lithograph, with painted decorations in silver, bearing the inscription, ‘Vagneur-DuprÉ. No. 530. Lith. de Lemercier.’

136 Several versions of the above subject appear: 1. King seated under canopy, three notables and three ecclesiastics on either side, M. Calonne reading speech, 2. King and his two brothers under canopy, four nobles and four ecclesiastics on either side. 3. A much more elaborate performance, king and two royal princes under canopy; four nobles and six ecclesiastics, M. Calonne, and clerk at table; a courtier on each side of the composition.

137 Dictionnaire des Hommes Marquans, ii. p. 519, quoted by Carlyle.

138 Richard Heath, ‘Politics in Dress,’ Woman’s World, June 1889.

139 In the MusÉe du Louvre is a remarkable drawing of the great arch, with a vast concourse of people, by Jean Louis Prieur, illustrated in Lady Dilke’s work, French Engravers and Draughtsmen of the Eighteenth Century.

140 Carlyle.

141 Carlyle.

142 Henri Bouchot, History on Fans.

143 See page 164.

144 Richard Heath, ‘Politics in Dress,’ Woman’s World, June 1889.

145 Henri Bouchot.

146 Henri Bouchot.

147 Of the two hundred engravings deposited in the BibliothÈque Nationale in this year (1796) a hundred and fourteen were fan-designs mostly in praise of Napoleon. (Henri Bouchot, History on Fans.)

148 Chaudet was a sculptor who made the first statue of Napoleon in his military dress, that on the VendÔme Column. Fontaine and Persier were architects to the Tuileries.

149 Lord Stanhope, alluding to the medals prematurely struck in honour of Admiral Vernon’s victories at Portobello and Carthagena, says: ‘Perhaps the most remarkable of all these mÉdailles prÉmaturÉes is that struck by Napoleon for his intended conquest of England; his head on the one side; on the other, Hercules struggling with a monster; the words “Descente en Angleterre”; and beneath, “FrappÉ À Londres, MDCCCIV.”’—History of England, chap. xxii.

150 EncyclopÆdia Britannica.

151 A company obtained a concession ratified 15th April 1877. The Maritime Canal Company was organised May 1899, and in the following year a construction company was incorporated. The question whether the canal would be constructed by this route or on the Panama route was still undecided in September 1902.—EncyclopÆdia Britannica.

152 ‘Hogarth,’ says Walpole, ‘resembles Butler; but his subjects are more universal, and amidst all his pleasantry, he observes the true end of comedy—reformation. There is always a moral to his pictures.’

153 A synopsis of English History, given on a fan, published 1793 by I. Cock and J. P. Crowder, concludes by saying: ‘We may with pleasure add that one of the Princes, His Majesty’s 2^d son, the Duke of York, has lately gained honour for the English Nation by the eminent distinction of the British Troops under his command before Valenciennes, in the humanity they joined to their valour. Vive, Vive le Roi!’

154 M. Gamble had advertised in the Craftsman during the year 1733 ‘The Church of England Fan; being an explanation of the Oxford Almanac for the year 1733, on which the several characters are curiously done, in various beautiful colours. Price 2s. Likewise a new Edition of the “Harlot’s Progress in Fans,” with prints of all the three sorts fit to Frame. Sold at the Golden Fann in St. Martin’s Court, near Leicester Fields.’

155 In Boswell’s Johnson are references to Osborne—to the purchase of the Harleian Library and the publication of the Catalogue, and to the personal chastisement which Johnson inflicted on him:—‘It has been confidently related, with many embellishments, that Johnson one day knocked Osborne down in his shop, with a folio, and put his foot upon his neck. The simple truth I had from Johnson himself: “Sir, he was impertinent to me and I beat him. But it was not in his shop; it was in my own chamber.”’

In Johnson’s Life of Pope, Osborne is thus referred to:—‘Pope was ignorant enough of his own interest to make another change, and introduced Osborne contending for the prize among the booksellers.’ (Dunciad, ii. p. 167.)

‘Osborne was a man entirely destitute of shame, without sense of any disgrace but that of poverty.’ (Johnson’s Works, viii. p. 302.)

156 This latter is a device by which the second dimension of the stick (the gorge) is made to slide up into the shoulder, the mount being double and loose, so as to allow of passing up and down the stick. By this means, an ordinary sized fan of 10-3/4 ins. is reduced to 6-3/4. Mr. Crewdson has an example, with paper mount painted with figures variously occupied, as a soldier drinking at a tent, a travelling ‘Punch,’ etc. The stick ivory, carved, painted and gilt.

157 ‘The Fair was granted by Henry I. to one Rahere, a witty and pleasant gentleman of his Court, in aid, and for the support of, an Hospital, Priory, and Church, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, which he built in repentance of his former profligacy and folly. The succeeding Priors claimed by certain Charters to have a Fair every year, viz. on the Eve, Day, and the Morrow of St. Bartholomew.’

158 The Beau always carried a white beaver hat, assumed after he had lost many of ordinary colours, as he said, to prevent any person taking it by mistake, though the uncharitable declared the reason for this singularity was to attract attention. Nash was fond of fine clothes, and celebrated the King’s Birthday in 1734 by appearing in gold-laced clothes, in which, says Chesterfield, ‘he looked so fine that, standing by chance in the middle of the dancers, he was taken by many at a distance for a gilt garland. (Lewis Melville, Bath under Beau Nash.)

159 Daughter of George II., who paid her first visit to Bath in 1728.

160

161 Goldsmith, Life of Nash.

162 In memory of the happy restoration to Health of the Prince of Orange, by drinking the Bath Waters, through the favour of God, and to the joy of Britain, 1734.

163 The painted fan alluding to the relations between the Prince of Wales and Mrs. Fitzherbert is referred to on page 195.

164 In 1726, when Swift took the town by storm with ‘Gulliver,’ every lady ‘carried Lilliput about with her,’ and Lilliputian fans became the vogue.

165 ‘Mr. A. W. Tuer, in a list of Bartolozzi’s works (page 116), catalogues eighteen fan-mounts, including the one published by A. Poggi in 1780, but not the one published by Poggi in 1782. Only four, so far as he knows, were completed as fans, including the 1780 Poggi. The coppers on which the engravings were made were of large size, so as to admit of the after addition of the form of the fan, and its ornamentation. Some of the plates were afterwards cut down, lettered, and issued as separate prints.’ (Letter of Mr. Lionel Cust to Lady Charlotte Schreiber, Schreiber MSS., British Museum.)

166 Redgrave, South Kensington Catalogue, 1870.

167 Duvelleroy, Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1867, Rapports du Jury International, vol. iv.

168 Queen, Christmas Number, 1890.

169 E. Barrington Nash, Catalogue of the Third Competitive Exhibition of Fans at Drapers’ Hall, 1890.

170 There is no reason why either sex should claim a monopoly of fan painting.

171 Octave Uzanne, The Fan.

172 These details are most kindly supplied by the Private Secretary, the Hon. A. Nelson Hood, who also photographed the fan for this work.

173 The above facts are taken from an article in the Irish Rosary for June 1898.