INDEX

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  • Addison, scantiness of dress, 141
  • Angelico, Fra, painting by, at Florence, 101
  • Anglo-Saxon super-tunic, 76;
  • embroidery, 76;
  • Chronicle, treasures of King Malcolm of Scotland, 100
  • Barbers, introduction of in Rome, 239;
  • charter granted by Henry VIII., 247
  • Barber-Surgeons, 247-249
  • Beard, formality of Assyrian and Greek, 237;
  • dyeing and powdering, 238;
  • ceremonies and customs relating to, 238;
  • Peter Lombard's dislike of, 245;
  • edict by Henry I. for suppression of, 245;
  • various shapes of, 246;
  • vow of Henry VIII. relating to, 246
  • Beaumont and Fletcher, quotation from, 140
  • Bloet, Robert, Bishop of Lincoln, mantle presented by to Henry I., 90
  • Boadicea, tunic of, 68
  • Bodice, rigidity of, 144
  • Boots, shoes, and other foot coverings, 281-301
  • —— short, 288;
  • top, 288, 297, 298;
  • Wellington, 298
  • Buckles, 296
  • Buskins, 284-286
  • Byzantine women, dress of, 72
  • Calash, introduction of, 230
  • Cap, flat, of Tudor period, 218-220;
  • fool's, 209
  • Carlyle, T., 18, 26, 110
  • Charlemagne, dress of, 68;
  • letter to King John of Gascogny, 89;
  • mantle of, 90
  • Charles I., costume of, 126
  • Chaucer, quotations from, 52, 46, 78, 82, 98, 118, 242, 275
  • Chopine, 292
  • Chlamys, 85
  • Cloak, Spanish, 102;
  • Puritan, 102
  • Clothes, index as to character, 22;
  • climatic influence on, 22;
  • uses of, 20;
  • their symbolism, 26
  • Coif-caps, 258
  • Collar, Gurth's, 181
  • Collars and cuffs, 181-201
  • Cotton MS. caricature of winged devil, 42
  • "Couleur Isabella," Piccadilly, 190;
  • fringe, UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, WOKING AND LONDON


    FOOTNOTES:

    [1] Gen. iii. 7, 21.

[2] This fable is so quaintly told in Lyly's "Euphues" (1580), that it may be worth while to repeat it. "A gentleman walking abroard, the Winde thought to blowe of(f) his cloake, which with great blastes and blustering striving to vnloose it, made it to stick faster to his backe, for the more the winde encreased the closer his cloake clapt to his body, then the Sunne, shining with his hoat beames began to warme this gentleman, who waxing som(e)what faint in this faire weather, did not on(e)ly put of(f) his cloake but his coate, which the Wynde perceiuing, yeelded the conquest to the Sunne."

[3] Carlyle, "Sartor Resartus."

[4] Stephen Gosson, "The School of Abuse."

[5] Exodus xxviii. 6-8.

[6] With the object of making more complete a work on ancient textile fabrics which the Prussian Government is issuing, the sarcophagus at Aix-la-Chapelle Cathedral in which the remains of Charlemagne rest has been opened, and certain pieces of valuable silk have been extracted in order that they may be examined and photographed. The great Frankish Emperor's bones were wrapped in these costly cloths. One of them is ancient Constantinople work, the production of the celebrated Imperial Byzantine workshops, and represents a brilliantly coloured surface with elephants embroidered in circles. The other piece is believed to be of Sicilian origin, with a design of birds and hares.

Charlemagne's bones are still intact, with the exception of the skull and one arm, which are in another part of the Cathedral. Medical men who have examined these bones say that the Emperor was a man of huge proportions. The Kaiser is greatly interested in the preparation of this work on ancient tissues, and it was his Majesty who induced the Archbishop of Cologne to consent to the opening of the sarcophagus.—Daily Paper.

[7] Scott's "Kenilworth."

[8] "The Four Sons of Aymon," Caxton's version.

[9] This chivalrous monarch not only founded the Order of the Garter, but even contemplated the revival of the Round Table.

[10] Pilch or pilcher, a scabbard, a covering for the sword.

[11] Embroidery.

[12] Fairholt, "Costume in England."

[13] The term "spencer" is a modern one, and is said to originate from an accident to Lord Spencer, in which he lost his coat-tails during a hunt, temp. George III.

[14] "This day I did first see the Duke of York's room of pictures of some Maids of Honour, done by Lilly; good, but not like."—Pepys's Diary.

[15] Carlyle.

[16] Fairholt, "Costume in England."

[17] Stow.

[18] This lady, in 1601, registered a vow not to change her linen until the town of Ostend was taken. The siege lasted three years and three months, by which time her under-clothing had attained a colour which is perhaps easier to imagine than to describe. It provided a name for a stuff, "Couleur Isabella," which was fashionable in France for over a century.

[19] "What I have said, I have said" (the Right Hon. Joseph Chamberlain).

[20] The Castalian spring is at the foot of the mountain, but it should have been at the top, where the tired and thirsty traveller would be most likely to need it. Besides, it is not to be expected that we could reverse the order of the paragraph—"we have said it."

[21] It would appear to be a corruption of "mad as an atter (adder)". The word "adder" is atter in Saxon, natter in German. Its origin, however, is apparently somewhat obscure.

[22] The above story was told to the knight by a lady of his acquaintance who was an eye-witness of the event. We give here Caxton's version:—"For her clothyng and araye was different and no thyng lyke to theyr, and therefore she had wel her part beholdyng and lokyng. Thenne said the good ladyes to her, 'My frende, telle ye us, yf it please yow, how ye name that aray that ye have on your heed?' She answerde and saide, 'The galhows aray.' 'God bless us,' said the good lady, 'the name of hit is not faire.'... 'As ferre as I me remembre of it,' continued the knight's informant, 'hit was highe culewed with longe pynnes of sylver uppon her hede, after the makynge and maner of a gybet or galhows, right straunge and merveylous to se.'"

[23] William of Malmesbury.

[24] 2 Sam. xiv. 25, 26.

[25] "Phisicke is good, and yet I would wish that every ignorant doult, and especially women, that have as much knowledge in phisick or surgery as hath jackeanapes, being but smatterers in the same noble sciences, should be restrained from the publike use therof" unless they do it gratis (Stubbes, "Anatomy of Abuses," 1583).

[26] The fillet which encircles the barber's pole indicates the ribbon used for bandaging the arm in bleeding, and the basin the vessel to receive the blood.

[27] "He speaks like a lady for all the world, and never swears, as Mr. Flash does, but wears nice white gloves, and tells me what ribands become my complexion, where to stick my patches, who is the best milliner, where they sell the best tea, and which is the best wash for the face and the best paste for the hands; he is always playing with my fan, and showing his teeth; and when ever I speak, he pats me—so—and cries, 'The devil take me, Miss Biddy, but you'll be my perdition—ha, ha, ha!'" (David Garrick, "Miss in Her Teens," 1747).

[28] Thomas Deloney's "booke called the Gentle Crafte, intreating of Showmakers," tells how Crispin and Crispianus, sons of King Logrid of Britain and of Queen Estreda, were sheltered at Faversham, Kent. Crispin wooed and married Princess Ursula, whose son was born in the shoemaker's house. Hence the saying, "A shoemaker's son is born a Prince." From their high lineage, shoemaking is named "The Gentle Craft."

"I am of Crispin's trade, a brave Shooemaker,
He loved a Princess dear, and ne'r forsak't her....
This craft was never held in scorn, Sir Thomas Eyer did it adorn,
A Shoemaker's son a Prince is born."

Roxburghe Ballads.

[29] "Health Culture," G. Jaeger, M.D.

[30] A movement, headed by the Empress, has been instituted recently for the abolition of the practice of mutilating the feet of Chinese women, which was universal throughout all classes of society. In the cities, ladies were carried through the streets pick-a-back, and moved about their houses on their knees. In the fields the women worked on their knees, being unable to stand.

[31] "Health Culture," G. Jaeger, M.D.






                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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