Myrtle Reed

Medicine for Bad Eyes—A summary Proceeding—News from the Salt-Caravan—Towns and Villages of Tesaoua—Earthquakes—Presents for the Sultan of Maradee—Yusuf's Insolence—English Money in Aheer—A Razzia on the Holy City—Bornouese Studies—Gipsies of Soudan—En-Noor and the Marabouts—Ghaseb—State of the Weather—Calculations for the Future—Senna—Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer—En-Noor in his Family—Gouber and Maradee—Beer-drinking—Study of the Sau—Shara—The Oulimad—Lions—Translating Jokes—Digging a Well—Projects.

Nov. 14th.—I wrote this morning, by the slaves going to GhÂt, to Mr. Bidwell and my wife. En-Noor paid us a visit in the afternoon, and was exceedingly civil. He promises me letters for Sakkatou, and to forward Overweg to Maradee.

Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor having bad eyes, ordered the eyes of this bird of prey to be scooped out for a medicine. This is not the first time that I have heard of the various parts of animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to cure or strengthen the corresponding parts in human beings. It seems to be an idea natural to people in a rude or semi-barbarous state.

En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself and his younger days in our tent to-day. After saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were the only folks considered bad in these parts, he observed, that now he himself and the Asbenouee were certainly much improved in their manners and dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once four fighis (charm-writers) who employed people to speak against me, and bring me into disrepute. What did I do? I called them to me, gave them fine presents of burnouses and a great supper, with an apartment in which to pass the night. But when they were fast asleep I dug a large hole, fetched them all out of the room, killed them, and covered them up in the hole. Now, however," continued his highness, "we do not go so far as this, but content ourselves with taking away an enemy's camels."

15th.—Weather cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 43°. I hang the thermometer on the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from the ground.

Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this morning from the salt-caravan. He marked on the sand that the caravan would be thirty-five days before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from this time some thirty days to wait here. He left the caravan on its entering the Hamadah, between this and Bilma.

Towns and Villages of Tesaoua.

(From Amankee's relation.)

1. Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and one small one.
2. Harmaua: 500. A little water.
3. Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.
4. Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.
5. Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.
6. Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.
7. Ungua-guka: 500. One well.
8. Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.
9. Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.
10. Saulawa: 40 or 50.

The capital and nearly all this country is full of trees. Not a stone is to be seen, and the soil is sandy.

The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to the sovereign of Maradee, who is the only independent black prince in this part of Africa. The inhabitants are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but these last are not bigoted.

En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked him if he recollected earthquakes in this country. The old Sheikh emphatically replied, Babo, "There are none."

16th.—Barth has picked up a good many words in Aghadez, mostly correct.

17th.—It was colder this morning, although yesterday was very pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise, 41°.

It is expected that we shall still remain here thirty days, which time, if divided half between Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me on in these languages, the principal of the interior of Africa. Mohammed Tunisee is now the servant of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.

Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents for the Sultan of Maradee, to whom he intends to go on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse, a fine shasheeah (five mahboubs), two pieces of coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white sugar, knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-glasses, beads, &c. I hope he will not return without bringing back the treaty signed. He is also to make some arrangement for the establishment of the missionaries in Maradee.

To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I read several short prayers from the Church of England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and Epistle for the Sunday.

18th.—Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and the moon had, for several hours, an immense elliptical ring round it—a common phenomenon in the northern Sahara.

To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down his writing, because I told him he did not take pains to obtain from the people the several meanings of the words. This has been the case for most of the time we have been occupied with the vocabulary. I have therefore left him to himself, since he insulted me in this manner before the servants, and I fear I cannot trust myself to go with him to Sakkatou. It is a great inconvenience, but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder. There are many poor men of this profession in Bornou, and very faithful people.

19th.—His highness En-Noor continues to visit us. Yesterday I gave him an English silver fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly delighted. He summed up their value in wadÂ; fifty wadÂs are an English penny. He admired her majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his shadow, the man who generally comes with him, said,—"Oh, no, the face of the woman for a Sultan is not good. This is good," pointing to the head of Louis Philippe.

The news came yesterday evening that a razzia had just been made on Tintaghoda, the assailants carrying away everything before them, and the inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains. This razzia was made by the people whom the Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the depredations committed on us and other caravans on the road. When this took place there were a few people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the news, came off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now there does not remain a single inhabitant in the village. The people of the razzia were much disappointed at finding no more camels, all those of the villages hereabouts, and indeed through all Aheer, being gone to fetch salt from Bilma. They wished to make up the number of camels which the Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of course, when the salt-caravan returns, an effort will be made to avenge this insult on the holy city of Aheer—this profanation of the abode of marabouts! It is singular, nevertheless, that only a year ago some neighbouring tribes, thinking these holy men had too much wealth, carried off a large number of their camels. This is the much-vaunted place amongst the credulous Moorish merchants of the coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!

21st.—A foggy November morning! But this change of the atmosphere is very rare, and soon passes away. It is amazing how steady the seasons are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed weather and tunes.

Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not knowing whether I shall go first to Bornou or Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to make a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan languages together, for the sake of commerce and general information. I hope Government will print it, or if not Government, the Philological Society.

Abizgen is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It is half the size of small currants, and has not a disagreeable taste—a sort of bitter-sweet clammy taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.

In the neighbourhood of our encampment have been seen gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable numbers.

22d.—En-Noor went off yesterday morning early, to visit a great marabout in the neighbourhood. This will enable us to apply ourselves closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied as I am with Soudanese and Bornouese, all the days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return in the course of four or five days. We have now all the village of Tintalous with us. It is Tintalous encamped out in the valley.

23d.—The orient sky flamed this morning with a pure yellow flame, amidst a somewhat murky atmosphere.

Most of the people have a fire all night. In the morning they cower over it like inhabitants of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold most acutely.

There is a species of people scattered through Soudan which correspond to our gipsies, called MÁguzÁwa (sing. BÁmăguzăi). These are essentially a merry, care-nothing people, always half tipsy, and always full of fun. They, however, work a little in agriculture; differing from our gipsies, who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy was shown to me to-day, whom his parents had christened Butu, "worthless." It is related that his mother had many children before him, all of whom died, and when he came into the world the people or neighbours all cried, "Butu! Butu!" i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added, "God seeing the people gave him a bad name, determined in compassion to preserve his life, and so his life was preserved to this day."

En-Noor returned this evening from his visit to the marabout.—It is my intention to send home fifty thousand African words for this expedition. What future expeditions may do, if my life be spared, I cannot tell. I speak for this. I imagine I have already sent to the Foreign Office six thousand. I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the time I get to Zinder—three of Soudanese, and two of Bornouese. I must try to get a few words of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably, at Sakkatou. I must have another writer, or fighi. My present Bornouese fighi is a very poor fellow.

24th.—The Sunday soon came again, with the study of languages. Now the time of our waiting here does not appear to be long enough. I have a commercial dictionary to make.

En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit to his marabout friend. He says of the late razzia at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of that town brought it all upon themselves, being the first to begin to countenance attacks upon caravans (that is, ours). He does not pity them; he does not care for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all their reputation amongst the people." The fact is, when we came the marabouts did not know what course to take, whether to attack us or to receive us; so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment, and brought all this evil upon their heads.

The Fadeea, or KalfadaÏ, have decamped with their booty and their families to the Hagar, beyond the reach of recapture or revenge.

A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running across the sandy floor. We look upon them now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather has deprived them of all force.

25th.—Occupied with the languages. Time passes quickly.

26th.—Began the Bornou grammar.

27th.—A visit from En-Noor. He put on one of my gloves, and was much amused with it. He held out his hand, and put it on the face of his courtiers—showing fight. It was very white, which gave him occasion to pass to my skin, and pity my being so white. I made several useful remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand the genius of the language.

A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou, by which we learn that the Sfaxee and Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country. We have been trying to buy ghaseb of the people, or of En-Noor; but it appears we were too late, for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth only 1750 wadÂs here, whilst in Kanou they pass for 2500. Every article is depreciated in value in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have, however, managed to purchase a bullock—a great beast.

28th.—I did not feel so well after the meat-eating; we have had so little of it, and so seldom, that a little extra quite upsets me, and the gnawing it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50°. The weather has changed to mistiness, haziness. It is now reported that we still remain here twenty-five days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty days, and five being allowed to rest the camels. So we have time enough for the Haussa and Bornou languages. I wish to master the grammar of each, so as to superintend some translation of the Scriptures.

29th.—The weather is still hazy, and warmer; but whilst it is warmer in the morning it is cooler in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and haze. Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56°.

En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days, but ten days more or less for these people are nothing. Our courier for the money has just been gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to day, he will save a week of the Shantah from Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more before we arrive at Zinder, that will be sixty days. I shall then have only twenty days more to wait till the expiration of the four months, when I may expect the courier to return. Thus I hope to have the money to pay the Sfaxee before I go to Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day may bring forth. For our support and safety we must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty Providence.

Nov. 30th to Dec. 3d.—The weather has been mild these last few days; this morning, half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 51°.

En-Noor has been to pay a visit to the Sultan of Asoudee, meeting him at some neighbouring village. There was a council respecting the affairs of the tribe of the Iteesan, who are fighting amongst themselves; but no news has transpired since his return. The old sheikh is in good health and spirits, which he attributes partly to drinking my coffee twice and thrice a-day. He says we shall leave here in the course of twelve days.

Senna is grown, or rather collected, in all the districts of Aheer; but it is cheap now, and does not fetch the price in Tripoli which it formerly did; many other as suitable purgatives being found in Europe, I suppose. Senna is, besides, procured from the district of the Tibboos of Bilma, and some of this is still sent to Tripoli. Bornou has also much senna, but it does not pay the expense of forwarding it to Tripoli.

The relations of man and wife in Aheer are curious, if not extraordinary. A woman never leaves the home of her father! When a man marries a woman, he remains with her a few weeks, and then, if he will not take up his residence in the town or village of his wife, he must return to his own place without her. When a man sees a woman who pleases him, he offers the parents a price for her—say, four camels. If the parents agree that the price is adequate to the charms or the rank of their daughter, the bargain is concluded. These four camels remain always the property of the wife, with which she supports herself, sending them to Soudan or to Bilma, fetching ghaseb or salt. Many of the women have a large property obtained in this way. When their husbands visit them, they give them something to eat, and they remain a few days or weeks; and again depart to their own native towns, leaving the wife with her property, and any chance lover. But the men marry two or three wives, and so are constantly in motion, first going to visit one wife and then another. Thus the male population of this country is kept in a continually restless state of activity—roaming about here and there, marrying another and another wife, if their means will permit them. The women, of course, left in this way, and unrestrained by any high moral motives, take as many lovers as they dare, or can secretly dispose of. It appears that En-Noor always disapproved of this strange system, and swore he would never marry a wife, because he should be obliged to go to another town to reside there, and so be exposed to having an inferior position, the authorities of the town of his wife pretending to exercise jurisdiction over him. All his women have ever been slaves. His highness is now living amidst his daughters and their children—the men who married them being all away in their own native countries. A daughter of En-Noor costs ten camels, and this is considered a very high price for a woman. With two or three camels, a woman manages to support herself and children. If the husbands of En-Noor's daughters be ever so poor, he never gives them anything but a little food. They must come and reside in his town. His highness passes all his evenings amidst this circle of women—his female slaves, his daughters, and granddaughters.

The population of Gouber and Maradee together may be about 1500.

MărÁdee, capital of Maradee, and residence of the Siriki.

Jinubakai is the second division of the country, inhabited wholly by the pagans or gia-drinkers (beer-drinkers); not, therefore, Mahometans.

Gouber (Gubar), is the name of the country, of which the capital and residence of the sultan is Chibri. This country consists of a large city (Chibri), and several small villages, some fifty or sixty; two are here mentioned, Gomer and Sanna.

These two countries of Gouber and Maradee are now in alliance against the Sultan of Sakkatou, i.e. of the Fellatahs, and mutually inflict razzias upon one another. Tesaoua is in close connexion with these ancient Kohlan countries, and is, indeed, a province of Maradee. There are mixed up with the population a number of people, emigrants from Aheer, called Buzai; but these Aheer Tuaricks have lost both their language and nationality, retaining merely the name, to denote their origin. So, in all probability, were more people and of other countries to emigrate to Soudan, they would soon become Soudanee, and lose their nationality. In these countries of Soudan above-mentioned, Mahommedanism has been but lately professed. But the great distinguishing mark between paganism and Mahommedanism appears to be the drinking or not drinking gia, the latter being the people who of course abstain from this intoxicating beverage.

Overweg says, that within three-quarters of an hour's walk are found hereabout granite, sandstone, and basalt, a variety of stones somewhat remarkable.

The study of sau, "footsteps" of men and animals, is quite a science in this part of the world. The Fezzanee are reckoned the most expert in this knowledge; they are said to be able to distinguish the footsteps of people when printed upon the trunk of a palm, the print-step being made by dipping the feet in water! As to animals, the people observe near the neighbouring rocks the sau of the lion—a very deep, heavy impression of his five claws, of the monkey, the hare, the gazelle, the fox, the jackal, the hyÆna, the mouse, &c. &c. Indeed, we appear to be surrounded with animals; and in the morning I found the sau of the dog, the cat, the hare, and the mouse, on the sandy floor of my tent. It is my intention, before I leave Africa, to draw the forms of the footsteps of the more remarkable animals. Inshallah!

4th.—Visit from his highness the Sheikh every day. He is now kind enough to send me every morning—at the suggestion of his principal wife—a small can of milk, which, besides the value of the milk itself, saves my sugar, enabling me to drink tea and coffee without sweetening. This evening the shara was brought of the arrival of couriers from the salt-caravan, to say it was near. Like the Arabs, for this shara or news, or first advice of the coming of something good or agreeable, the Kailouees ask some present. We gave a little bit of sugar to the slave who brought the welcome intelligence.

Dec. 5th to 9th.—I was occupied with vocabulary of Haussa and Bornou. Weather mild and misty, but a little cold this morning; thermometer, at three-quarters of an hour after sunrise, 43°.

Nearly all the salt-caravan has arrived, and proceeded in advance, coming in small detachments. They rendezvous in a fine wady full of herbage, with water higher up. We are expected to leave in a few days, three or four at most. Nothing seems now to detain En-Noor. But the Fadeea have returned from the Hagar, finding themselves not pursued. They very naturally prefer their own fine valley in Asben to the stony, desert wilds of Hagars. I suppose a razzia will be executed against them, for the restoration of the camels of Tintaghoda, on the return of the salt-caravan from Soudan.

En-Noor gives a tremendously unfavourable account of the Oulimad, who occupy the desert of Sahara between Aghadez and Timbuctoo, and keep the road there shut against caravans. He says, they would sleep in our tents in the day, eat and drink with us; but in the night they would carry away the tent, and make themselves clothing with it. In fact, En-Noor considers them the veriest barbarians in this region of Africa. There may be a little exaggeration in this, and the Oulimad may not be worse than the Hagars of GhemÂma, or even than some of his own people. The Kailouees do not hunt, nor do they cultivate the soil; so that this country abounds with animals. Some of the country is extremely wild and rocky, and affords many a retired den for the lions, who descend from the rocks and prowl abroad for prey in great numbers. Their footmarks frequently cover the length and breadth of the wadys. Barth himself saw (very fortunately, for it is a sight seen by very few persons indeed) as many as five together. Monkeys also abound in great numbers. I related to En-Noor the anecdote, as a joke, of the monkey shaving the cat in Paris; but this he took seriously, for he observed, "That is nothing; I have seen the monkeys crack lice just like men." It is always a difficult matter to translate a joke to these people. Overweg has been out these last two days hunting for ostrich eggs, in the places which these birds frequent. He saw their footprints, dung, feathers, &c., and two specimens, but found no eggs. It appears this is a most difficult bird to catch.

En-Noor continues to be very friendly. I get milk now every morning, for which I pay sugar and coffee. His highness and his people went out yesterday to dig a well, about two hours distant. All the water in this place is exhausted. It appears to be merely a deposit of rain-water under the sand, at a depth of from four or five to eight feet. It becomes, as in this case, entirely exhausted before the commencement of the next rains; but of course there are some springs, and many wells which are not dried up during the whole year.

N.B.—If I remain a month at Zinder, I must make a little excursion amongst the Bornou villages and see the rustic life of the people; but I fear it will be a bad place to hear the pure Bornouese language. I still hope to go off early to Sakkatou, and finish quickly with Soudan. In these matters the Germans are better off than I am, and have not to wait for money.[10]