Question 1.—Why do my ducks not lay? I feed them all the corn they will eat.

Answer.—Ducks will not lay on hard grain alone. They should have a mash composed of equal parts wheat-bran, corn-meal, and twenty per cent. low grade flour, with about one-quarter green food and vegetables; ten per cent. of beef-scrap, with grit and oyster shells.

Question 2.—My ducklings are weak in the legs, cannot stand, and soon die. What is the matter?

Answer.—Your trouble is too highly concentrated food and too much of it. Feed on mash composed largely of wheat-bran, low-grade flour and about fifteen per cent. of corn-meal. Mix in plenty of green food, as green rye, clover, corn-fodder, etc. Ten per cent. of ground beef-scrap, or other animal food; five per cent. of coarse sand. This diet is absolutely necessary to properly develop the bird and form flesh, bone and feathers. Feed sparingly. This is essential, as it invites exercise, which is much needed during close confinement in inclement weather.

Question 3.—My ducklings are troubled with sore eyes and do not seem to thrive, what can I do for them?

Answer.—This disease savors of filthy quarters, and yet it is not always attributed to that. Improper assimilation of food through want of grit and other ingredients will have a tendency in the same direction. A gummy secretion exudes from the eyes, hardening up among the feathers around them, seriously retarding the growth and development of the bird. Feed sparingly of light food with plenty of grit, and sprinkle a little ginger in their food. Remove the bird to clean quarters and a few days will usually effect a cure.

Question 4.—I am losing my ducklings from diarrhoea. Have but twenty left out of eighty, and they are not ten days old. Please counsel me?

Answer.—This disease may have several causes, though I am convinced that the food has but little to do with it. It may originate through the degenerate condition of the parent bird, and consequent want of vitality in the egg from which the little bird comes out in no shape to live; or from the extremes of heat and cold to which the eggs have been subjected during the process of incubation; or from the same cause after the little duckling has been placed in the brooder. I am convinced that with a careful selection of the proper ingredients in feeding the old bird, and a reasonable control of the heat in the incubator and brooder (if they are good ones), there need be but little apprehension from this disease.

Question 5.—My breeding birds have the gapes. They stretch their necks and gape, eat nothing, and die in a few days. Can you diagnose the case and help me?

Answer.—This is undoubtedly a lung trouble, for on dissecting the birds, I have always found the lungs not only highly inflamed but nearly gone. For years I had supposed this disease incurable, and incidental to bird and clime, but later experience has convinced me that it is not only largely under control but easily anticipated. First, I never knew a case in summer or early spring, when the birds were not confined to buildings but had free and open range, and only when confined during inclement weather, so that it is more or less a denizen of foul air and filthy quarters.

I would much rather have my breeding houses freeze a little than to have them filled with foetid air, and the birds breathe over and over again the ammonia arising from their own excrements. It is one thing for the birds to be confined over their own ordure, their nostrils but a few inches from it, but quite another with the attendant in the walk with his nose six feet away. He may think his buildings quite clean and free from noxious gases, but could his ducks speak they would tell him a different story. This disease, if taken in the early stages, can usually be cured. Isolate the bird with the first appearance of trouble, in a warm, dry place. Feed on food formula for little ducklings. Mix a little cayenne pepper in the food, a little Douglas Mixture in the drinking water, and a large proportion of the affected birds may be saved. Keep your breeding birds dry and clean when confined.

Question 6.—I turned my ducklings out in a grass plot today and have lost nearly one-third of them. What is the cause?

Answer.—This may result from two causes. Ducklings from two to four weeks old are ravenous birds and will devour all manner of insects within their reach, which they do not stop to kill. Bees, wasps, hornets and beetles of all descriptions are acceptable, and the little birds, themselves, often pay the penalty with their lives. Again, at that age, they are extremely sensitive to the heat of the sun, and they must have shade. Years ago, we sometimes lost twenty birds out of a hundred in thirty minutes, before we knew the cause.

Question 7.—How many birds should constitute a breeding-yard?

Answer.—Twenty-five is enough unless the birds have free range, then fifty may run together with safety.

Question 8.—How shall I proportion the sexes for the best results?

Answer.—Five ducks to one drake. Later in the season, six or eight ducks to one drake.

Question 9.—How can I distinguish the sexes?

Answer.—It is easy for the expert to detect the sex of the bird when very young. The drake has a longer bill, neck and body, with a more upright carriage. At two months old the duck may be distinguished by her coarse quack, the drake by a fine, rasping noise, and later on by the curled feathers in his tail.

Question 10.—How soon will a young duck begin laying?

Answer.—At about five months old, often at four and a half months old. At present, September 1st, we are getting some three dozen eggs per day from our young birds, and we are trying to hold them back all we can by light feeding.

Question 11.—Which will lay first, old or young birds?

Answer.—Young birds will usually lay from two to three weeks before the old ones, but as the first eggs of the old birds are usually more fertile than eggs from the young ones, there is very little discrepancy in the result.

Question 12.—How many eggs will a Pekin duck lay in a season?

Answer.—About one hundred and forty. Their fecundity is wonderful, excelling that of any other duck. We have birds in some yards with a record of one hundred and sixty-five eggs to each bird.

Question 13.—To what age is it profitable to keep a duck?

Answer.—We have kept them till four years old with good results. If not forced they may be kept longer to advantage.

Question 14.—Is there a market for their eggs, and at what price?

Answer.—Pekin duck eggs sell readily in market, as they are much larger than the other duck eggs. They command from five to ten cents per dozen more than hen's eggs.

Question 15.—How much does it cost to keep a duck each season?

Answer.—From $1.75 to $2.00. They are gross feeders, of bulky food, but the greater number and value of the eggs in market over the average hen, makes the duck more profitable as an egg-producer than the hen.

Question 16.—At what season are the eggs of a duck most fertile?

Answer.—During the months of February, March, April and May, though they are usually fertile with us during January, June, and even July.

Question 17.—What per cent. of the eggs will usually hatch?

Answer.—That depends entirely upon how the mother-bird is cared for and fed. See formula for laying birds.

Question 18.—What is the average loss sustained in growing ducklings?

Answer.—Not more than two per cent. with us, but it depends largely upon how the old birds are fed; how the eggs are incubated, and the young birds cared for.

Question 19.—How many birds can be safely kept in one brooder and one yard?

Answer.—About one hundred, and as they grow older, unless the yards are of good size, a less number would grow and fat better.

Question 20.—At what age should the young birds be put upon the market?

Answer.—When the prices are very high in the early spring we market them at about nine weeks old, when they will dress from ten to eleven pounds per pair. Later on, when prices are lower, we market them at ten to eleven weeks old, when they will dress from twelve to thirteen pounds per pair.

Question 21.—When and how do you select your breeding birds?

Answer.—As soon as we can distinguish the quality and merits of the bird, and from our earliest hatches, as they always develop into larger and better birds.

Question 22.—How do you treat the young birds for breeding purposes?

Answer.—Turn them out to pasture, and feed lightly on food calculated to develop bone, muscle and feathers.

Question 23.—What shall I do to keep my ducks still in the night, when they make a great noise and commotion? Some of them are broken down and cannot stand.

Answer.—Hang a lantern in their yard. You must keep them still.

Question 24.—Can ducks be shipped safely any distance?

Answer.—We ship ducks safely all over the United States, Canada and Europe.

Question 25.—Would you recommend incubator or hens for hatching duck's eggs?

Answer.—Incubator, by all means, if hatched in large quantities.

Question 26.—Would you use brooders, if hatched under hens?

Answer.—Brooders are better than hens, for two reasons. It is less trouble to care for them. Hens crush large numbers of them when small.

Question 27.—How long can the eggs be kept for hatching?

Answer.—They can be kept three weeks, safely, if kept on end, in a cool place, but should prefer them fresher.

Question 28.—Can Pekin ducks be crossed with other breeds profitably?

Answer.—From our experience, we can say no. In every case it has required longer time to mature the mongrels, and as the prices decline in the early spring, this is quite an item, besides the introduction of colored feathers injures the appearance of the dressed bird, as well as the quality of the feathers, which is also quite an item.

Question 29.—What is the price of duck's feathers in the market?

Answer.—Formerly, white duck feathers commanded fifty cents per pound, but since white feathers have been imported from Russia in such quantities, ours average about forty-five cents per pound.

Question 30.—What makes their wings turn out from their bodies?

Answer.—This is often caused by the rapid development of the bird. The resting feathers on the sides under the wings, do not keep pace with the rapid growth of the bird, and the constant efforts of the bird to keep the wings in place, tends to turn the wings outward. We have always noticed that these are invariably the best birds.

Question 31.—Which are the most profitable, ducks or chickens?

Answer.—This will depend upon whether the grower is a care-taker, or whether he is careless, lazy or untidy. We think that ducks will bear more neglect than chicks, but it will not do to presume upon that, as ducks will not thrive in filth more than chicks. We think that the average price of chicks in market is rather higher than that of ducks, but as it costs at least two cents less per pound to produce duck flesh, than that of the chick, there is very little difference.

Question 32.—Where are the best markets for ducks?

Answer.—Good markets may be found in all of our large cities, though we think New York and Boston the best. Sometimes, when large shipments produce a glut in the New York markets, the surplus is shipped to Boston, where it may be a cent or two higher. Then in a few days things may be reversed and the exodus be the other way, and as the freight is only one-half cent per pound between the two cities, I have known tons to be shipped at a time.

Question 33.—What would a plant cost, with a capacity of 5,000 ducklings, per year?

Answer.—With good machines, and buildings barely practical, $1,500 (if economically expended) would cover cost, independent of land.

Question 34.—What effect does extremes of heat and cold have upon young ducklings?

Answer.—After they are a week old they will stand much more of either than chicks.

Question 35.—Is the flesh of birds artificially grown, as good as that grown in the natural manner?

Answer.—Just as good. The quality of the flesh depends entirely upon the care and feed given the birds.

Question 36.—How large should the yards be in which the breeding birds are kept?

Answer.—At least one hundred feet long, where the buildings are long, and the width of the pens in which the birds are housed.

Question 37.—Do you think it will pay to grow celery to flavor the flesh of the birds?

Answer.—We have never done so, and parties who have grown celery for that purpose, have discontinued it as being unprofitable in the end, as they were not able to obtain increased prices for their product.

Question 38.—What is the best green food for ducks, old and young?

Answer.—Green clover, green corn-fodder, rye, oats and clover-rowen cured nicely, with green rye, in winter when ground is bare.

Question 39.—Should Pekin duck eggs be pure white?

Answer.—Yes.

Question 40.—Should a pure bred Pekin have any black feathers?

Answer.—No. The feathers should be a creamy white. Dark feathers are a sign of mongrel stock.

Question 41.—Will rain injure young ducklings?

Answer.—They are as susceptible to rain as chicks up to three weeks of age, but after that, will endure more, and at eight or ten weeks old, will really enjoy a good rain storm.

Question 42.—How large do Pekin ducks grow?

Answer.—We have had drakes to tip the scales at 13 pounds each, though this is somewhat rare. The past season, one of our drakes weighed 9-1/2 pounds, dressed, at 10 weeks old.

Question 43.—What is the weight of Pekin duck eggs?

Answer.—In the height of the season, ours weigh about 3 pounds to the dozen.

Question 44.—Is wet, marshy land suitable for ducks?

Answer.—Should prefer dry land contiguous to a stream or pond.

Question 45.—How many duck eggs should be placed under one hen?

Answer.—From nine to eleven, depending upon the size of the hen.

Question 46.—How long does it require to incubate duck eggs?

Answer.—Pekin eggs twenty-seven days. Muscovy eggs thirty-two days, same as geese.

Question 47.—Do Pekin ducks sit well on eggs?

Answer.—No. They are unreliable. Hens are better. A good incubator still better.

Question 48.—If you were a young man, with the same experience you have now, would you enter the poultry business?

Answer.—I certainly would, for two reasons. First, because it is a congenial occupation to me; second, it is by far the most profitable of any branch of farm industry.

Question 49.—Who is the best commission dealer in Boston market to whom I could consign my product?

Answer.—We consider Adams and Chapman, North Market St., safe and reliable, and a first-class firm in every respect.

Question 50.—Who is the best retail dealer?

Answer.—We consider Nathan Robbins Co., Quincy Market, as A-1. They have handled a large part of our product for many years, and we would heartily recommend them.