Summer Provinces by the Sea / A description of the Vacation Resources of Eastern Quebec and the Maritime Provinces of Canada, in the territory served by the Canadian Government Railways

Where to Go Recommended Places

The choice of a vacation place suited to individual requirements is a matter of considerable importance, and for those planning to visit a country that is new to them, a brief description of the merits of various places will be very helpful. The amusements and recreations of each district are here given concisely. A preliminary study of this chapter will enable visitors to make intelligent choice of a locality best suited to their needs; and full particulars of any place under consideration may be read in the detailed description of the district finally chosen.

There are, of course, hundreds of delightful spots where happy vacations may be spent if the visitor has no preference for any particular recreation. As is well known, however, some prefer the shore, while others like the interior life by woodland and stream. Others again are happiest when in or near some fairly busy town centre, where some luxuries and a social life may be enjoyed. There are others who prefer the simple and inexpensive life of the quiet little village resort, and others yet who like the life of a fashionable watering place. Then those who delight in yachting, boating, canoeing, and all the pleasures of outdoor life, as well as fishing, etc., have their preferences; and the object of this chapter is to afford a ready choice from those places exactly suited to particular requirements.

After the visitor has become familiar with the attractions of the neighborhood selected, by actual residence there, he will be able to explore in every direction; and in this way many a charming place will be discovered that has in it the something for which he has always longed—the life, the atmosphere so difficult to describe and which appeal direct to the heart in some unexplained way.

It is so well understood that visitors come to the Maritime Provinces for summer pleasures—and not to make a display of dress as at Atlantic City and similar resorts—that all who wish to do so may wear plain and sensible attire, and be as unconventional as they please. Of course in a few centres, such as Quebec, Murray Bay, etc., fashionable costumes are in evidence; but even in these places plain and sensible costumes do not call for remark; and while it is not necessary to avoid the best hotels where richer people congregate, there are always other comfortable hotels and stopping-places where people of moderate means may live more quietly and be just as happy.

Those who make a short stay in any one place will have little time for social life; but, after the day’s pleasure is over, pleasant social intercourse may be enjoyed—in all but the smallest places—with those who are sojourning in the same locality. In the larger centres social life is quite an enjoyable feature of the summer vacation, and here, too, visitors mingle on the porches, etc. at night, and pass many pleasant hours in discussing the scenery and other features of the district. If making a stay of weeks or months at any one place, it is a good plan to have introductions to some of its leading people, as in this way many delightful hours will be spent in pleasant society. Canadian people are very hospitable, as a rule, and in many places of small and medium size, visitors will frequently be asked to participate in tennis, boating and driving, etc., as soon as they have settled down in summer quarters. In all places of any pretensions as summer resorts, golf, tennis, bathing, etc., are provided by the management of the principal stopping-places, and in such resorts the visitor enjoys such recreation without having to await an invitation from residents—as must necessarily be the case in small places where no public facilities of the kind are provided.

Where an asterisk * is inserted before the name of a place or district, under any heading such as “Historic Interest,” “Summer Vacation Life,” “Yachting,” “Canoeing,” etc., it denotes a place of commanding excellence for the enjoyment of that particular interest.

Places of Historic Interest:

*Quebec, Tadousac, St. John, Halifax, Annapolis Valley, Annapolis Royal, Louisbourg.

Places that are Centres for the Enjoyment of Beautiful Scenery:

*Quebec, *Murray Bay (via Riviere Ouelle), *Tadousac (via Riviere du Loup), Bic, Metis, *Causapscal, *Matapedia, Bathurst, Newcastle, Chatham, *Fredericton, *St. John, Montague River (P.E.I.), *Truro, *Wentworth Valley, *Halifax, *Chester, *Baddeck, St. Ann’s, *Ingonish, Mabou, *Whycocomagh.

Places that are Centres for Romantic and Interesting Country:

All of those in the preceding division, and Riviere du Loup, Campbellton, Dalhousie, *Charlo, Shelburne, Antigonish, Guysboro, Sydney, Middle River, *Margaree River, Cheticamp.

Watering Places that are well frequented and where some life is going on, suited for those who like a little gaiety:

*Murray Bay, *Tadousac. (For those who like life in cities, *Quebec, *St. John and *Halifax may be here included.)

Watering Places of smaller size, where the usual quiet life of the small resort may be enjoyed:

Riviere du Loup (Fraserville), Cacouna, Kamouraska, Bic, Rimouski, *Little Metis, Dalhousie, *Charlo, Jacquet River, Bathurst, Newcastle, Chatham, *Rothesay, *Fredericton, *Charlottetown, Summerside, *Chester, Antigonish, *Baddeck, Grand Narrows, *Ingonish, Montmorency.

Watering Places of the smallest size, where very quiet days may be spent:

*Causapscal, Folleigh, Pugwash, Pictou, Shediac, Tignish, Alberton, Tracadie, Souris, *Montague, Georgetown, Murray Harbor, St. Peters, Cheticamp, *Middle River, *Margaree Forks, *Mabou, *Chateau Richer.

Small Places in which, although water is near, country features predominate:

Montmagny, *Causapscal, *Jacquet River, *Folleigh, *Hampton, *Sussex, Petitcodiac, Boiestown, Doaktown, Blackville, Hunter River, *Bradalbane.

Yachting waters of most enjoyable character are found at Quebec and all St. Lawrence River resorts; and at *Campbellton, *Dalhousie, *Bathurst and other Bay of Chaleur points, including several places on the GaspÉ peninsula; *Newcastle and *Chatham, on Miramichi Bay; *St. John and on the Lower St. John River; Charlottetown, Summerside, Murray Harbor, Georgetown and Souris on Prince Edward Island; Pugwash, Pictou and Mulgrave, in Northern Nova Scotia; *Halifax, St. Margaret’s Bay, *Chester and *Shelburne, on the South Shore; Guysboro and other harbors on the south-eastern shore; and on *Bras d’Or Lakes, *Baddeck, *Whycocomagh, *Sydney, St. Ann’s Bay and several harbors of the Cape Breton coast.

Motor-boating may always be enjoyed where good yachting waters are found, and hence all the places just enumerated as most suitable for yachting are also well adapted for motor-boating. The motor-boat being independent of the wind has an increased range of action, and on that account additional places are now named from which cruises may be made as a centre. As motor-boats are also able to move in more restricted water than the wind-propelled yacht, additional river places having pleasant cruising waters are here added, such as the *Saguenay, *Miramichi, *Fredericton, Kennebecasis River, the lower waters of the larger Prince Edward Island rivers, Mira River, Canso Strait, the splendid harbors and rivers east of Halifax, Minas Basin and on the waters of several of the large interior lakes accessible from or contiguous to convenient towns of fair size.

Quiet waters for pleasant boating amidst enjoyable surroundings will be found at every one of the numerous St. Lawrence River resorts from Quebec to Matane, on all of the fine rivers in the four provinces, in the Bay of Chaleur from *Matapedia, *Campbellton and *Dalhousie along the south shore of the GaspÉ Peninsula as far as *GaspÉ Bay, along the southern and eastern shores of Chaleur, along the whole interesting water front of the Northumberland Straits, and along the Bay of Fundy shore. As a matter of fact, good rowing waters are found within convenient reach of nearly every station on the Intercolonial Route, and all the places named in connection with yachting and motor-boating will be found to have suitable boating waters nearby.

One of the most enjoyable and healthful recreations is that of canoeing; and, as is well known, the canoeing waters of Quebec and the Maritime Provinces are without a rival in any part of the world. A whole lifetime of summers may be spent on these beautiful waters without exhausting the novelty and interest of scene that everywhere abounds. Every river of the four provinces has its canoeing attractions; and for a vacation of perfect delight no better plan can be followed than that of shipping a canoe over the Intercolonial Railway to the chosen centre of operations, and from there explore the district, to become acquainted with all its beauty and charm. All along the St. Lawrence River, and in its numerous tributaries, splendid canoeing waters are found. The great *St. John River, with its sparkling tributaries flowing through unfrequented woodland depths, is a superb highway full of romantic interest. The *Miramichi, *Nepisiguit, *Matapedia, *Tobique, *Restigouche, *Temiscouata and a host of other rivers in Nova Scotia (including Cape Breton) and Prince Edward Island give such a wealth of delightful canoeing waters that a choice is almost embarrassing. Nor must the smaller streams be passed by without notice, for in these also are found the wooded islands, murmuring rapids and sylvan retreats dear to the hearts of those who “paddle their own canoe.” There are hundreds of such places in the Maritime Provinces, and consequently a study of this book as a whole is recommended in order to make intelligent choice of that locality best suited to the tastes of the individual canoeist.

Tennis courts will be found in nearly all places larger than the small village of a few hundred inhabitants. In any place frequented by summer visitors the Tennis Clubs make provision for summer membership of visitors on payment of a small fee. In many places where no regular club has been established the privileges of the court are extended to visitors. In all of the summer resorts of the lower St. Lawrence excellent tennis facilities are provided, and this is true of the resorts of the provinces generally. In the small and restful stopping-places not yet known as resorts, but to which some summer visitors find their way, tennis courts are generally found—so universal has this healthful outdoor recreation become. It should not be forgotten that all through the Maritime Provinces the summer climate is so temperate that full enjoyment of tennis and outdoor sports brings with it none of the enervating fatigue inseparable from such recreation in warmer climes.

Golf links are not as commonly found as tennis courts, but nearly all summer hotels and resorts, other than the smallest, have made provision for the enjoyment of this exhilarating game. Some of the courses in the Maritime Provinces are the finest to be found anywhere; and there the game may be enjoyed with all the accompaniment of beautiful scenery, bracing air and romantic surroundings. Eastern Canada is the land of summer sports, where generous physical exercise may be taken without lassitude or undue fatigue; and in a game such as golf, where much ground must be covered, a cool climate greatly enhances the enjoyment of outdoor exercise.

The bathing waters of the provinces offer various temperatures to suit different classes of bathers. Leaving out of consideration river and lake bathing, the sea-bathing waters will be found to offer a considerable range of temperature. The inner waters of the *Bay of Chaleur, and the various places along the *GaspÉ Peninsula, along the Northumberland Strait shore, and those of *Prince Edward Island generally, will be found best suited to the average bather. Many go to the St. Lawrence River resorts between Murray Bay and Little MÉtis because there the water is warmest. This is not river bathing as some might suppose, for even at Murray Bay resorts one bathes in the briny water of old ocean. As the St. Lawrence River reaches the Gulf it broadens to ocean proportions, and at *Little MÉtis and *Matane, and along the GaspÉ shores, bathing in pleasantly-warmed sea water may be enjoyed. Prince Edward Island enjoys a reputation for pleasant bathing at a moderate temperature, but as the outer waters near Cape Breton are reached, an increasing coolness is noticeable, until the outer Atlantic shore is gained, and here, of course, the tidal water is the coldest, and best suited for those of robust physique. West and east of Halifax, however, there are numerous inner waters of lagoon or almost land-locked character, and many outer bay waters, too, where the sun warms the sand shoals at low tide, and where, consequently, warmer bathing may be enjoyed than that found on the open or outlying beaches.

Restful Days

The fishing waters of Eastern Canada are renowned all the world over. Who has not heard of the *Restigouche, *Miramichi, *St. John, *Nepisiguit, *Matapedia, *Tobique, *Upsalquitch, *Patapedia, *Godbout, *Bonaventure, *Cascapedia, *Margaree, and all that immense host of other rivers of various sizes that so liberally water the Maritime Provinces, and afford fishing sport of the best kind for those who love to catch the kingly salmon and princely trout.

The power of wealth is felt in the angling world, just as in other departments of life, and hence the most of the best fishing rights have been bought up by wealthy men and reserved for their own use and that of their friends and summer guests. But there are many places where the best of fishing may be had by previous arrangement, and other places, such as the *Charlo River in New Brunswick, where royal fishing may be enjoyed without permit other than the usual fishing license. The best plan is to read through “Summer Provinces by the Sea” so as to become acquainted with the country as a whole, and, after a district has been chosen, a letter of inquiry to the nearest Intercolonial Station Agent will elicit the latest and most accurate information on the fishing of the neighborhood. The “Fishing and Hunting” booklet issued by the Intercolonial Railway contains much valuable information relating to the fishing streams of the four provinces. This booklet will be forwarded from the offices of the Intercolonial Railway, Moncton, N.B., on application.

The joy of pitching a tent, and of living next to nature on the shore of the deep Atlantic, is a fascination that must lure increasing thousands from the crowded and stifling cities; and for those who desire more of the comforts of civilization, with a life as near nature as possible, there are bungalows by lake, river and sea where deep draughts of cool and invigorating air may be enjoyed on porches, or in living rooms that may be thrown open at will to admit every health-giving breeze that blows.

A Country Drive

All of the places mentioned in the chapter “Summer Resorts of the Lower St. Lawrence,” and many places in their neighborhood, are suitable for bungalow and tent life, and well adapted for those who prefer the more quiet and inner sea waters; and many charmingly-placed summer homes will be found all through this attractive district, at *Murray Bay, *St. IrÉnÉe, RiviÈre du Loup, *Cacouna, *Bic, and Little MÉtis, etc. In New Brunswick, on the banks of the St. John and other rivers, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Bay of Fundy shores, and in the interior woodland by lake and waterfall are many finely-placed summer cottages and vacation homes that are half-shack, half-tent, and where a glorious outing may be enjoyed at only a nominal cost. Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island both provide ample variety for this kind of life, while the eastern extremity of Nova Scotia, the Island of Cape Breton, offers a wealth of beautifully situated and romantic sites for summer tent and bungalow that cannot be surpassed in any country of the world.

For driving and country rambles, woodland walks, botanizing, gathering ferns and wild flowers, observation of the habits of birds and animals, and for the student of nature, the artist, the nature-lover and all who appreciate the profound thought and concentration promoted by the quiet and tranquility of woodland, forest and secluded country lane, the Maritime Provinces offer all that is beautiful in nature, combined with cool days and glorious nights. Who that walks about by day, in such a climate, can help feeling the buoyancy of spirit and feeling as of walking on air; and who that rambles by river, lake or shore at night but realizes that here he is indeed under the stars. The perfume of the flowers, the song of the birds, the wind whispering through the trees, and the far-away echo of the surf on the moonlit strand, all bring joy to the heart; and as we take our way by a forest of noble birch trees, the mysterious and thrilling sounds that come from its depths seem like an invitation to enter and tarry awhile—to “adore, and be still”—to spend an hour of quiet contemplation in yonder glade, where the moon’s soft light clothes every graceful, bending flower in a robe of gleaming splendor. The districts around *Quebec are particularly interesting to the nature-lover, while the *Bay of Chaleur, Prince Edward Island, the *Wentworth, *Matapedia, *Miramichi and *Nashwaak Valleys, the Upper and Lower *St. John River districts, and all the bye-places of Nova Scotia, and particularly of the *Cape Breton district, are full of interest for drives, rambles, etc., in the enjoyment of nature.

Many who enjoy country life will find their way to Quebec, St. John, Charlottetown, Halifax, and Sydney, etc., and from these places will afterwards pass on to some quiet spot where the simple life may be enjoyed on a farm at very small expense, and from which stopping-place, as a centre, drives and rambles may be taken in every direction.

The route of the Intercolonial Railway is through a country that is rich in game; indeed the Maritime Provinces are the chief hunting grounds of North America. Moose and deer are still abundant, and in parts of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia there are districts not difficult of access where bears may be shot. The upper part of Cape Breton Island is excellent for large game. From any of the principal centres in Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia hunting parties may be equipped, and guides obtained, in the proper season. Like the fishing places of the Maritime Provinces, the hunting localities are so numerous that it would be impossible to do justice to them in this book of general description. A special booklet, “Fishing and Hunting,” will be forwarded from the offices of the Intercolonial Railway, Moncton, N.B., on application.

Wild fowl, small game and shore birds are found in almost every part of the Maritime Provinces. The *Bay of Chaleur, *Prince Edward Island, and the shore along the *Straits of Northumberland all have numerous places where good shooting may be had in season. The interior rivers and many of the coast streams also afford fine shooting; and it is almost impossible to find a locality in which small game of some kind is not abundant. Particulars relating to small game and wild fowl districts will be found in the hunting pamphlet to which reference has just been made.

Automobile traffic is becoming world-wide, and with the attention that is now given to road improvement in nearly all parts of Canada, the highways of Quebec and the Maritime Provinces have not been overlooked. In Prince Edward Island the use of automobiles is prohibited, but in Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia there is a splendid choice of interesting tours. Particulars of these in detail may be obtained from the road maps published in New York; and the Automobile Clubs of Quebec, St. John and Halifax, etc., are always glad to give specific information relating to their province.

To enjoy intimate views of woodland, stream, lake and waterfall, it is often necessary to leave the main roads or highways. Inner glades, breezy heights, forest depths, the rocky bed of some foaming cascade, or the winding course of a plashing brook, bordered by wildflowers, must all be sought on foot.

In all districts that are rich in such beauties it is best to tarry at the nearest hostelry and enjoy the country by rambling about on foot. If such excursions are supplemented by trips in canoe, row-boat, sail-boat, and motor-boat of ordinary speed, an intelligent view of the country, its people, and its great resources of natural beauty will then be possible—a view that would not be within the reach of those who limit the field of observation to what may be seen from the seat of a speeding automobile.

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