  Jacques Cartier entered and named La Baie des Chaleurs in the year 1535, but before that time the unnamed waters had been frequented by European fishermen, drawn there by the splendid fishing for which this bay has long been known. The name ‘Bay of Heats’ was probably given to mark the genial temperature of these waters as compared with that of the more frigid waters of the Newfoundland shore. In very early maps it is termed La Baie des Espagnols, or ‘Spanish Bay’, from the fact that many of the early fishers were from Spain. The Indian name, Ecketuam Nemaache, the English of which is ‘Sea of Fish,’ is quite appropriate, too; but the use of the name Bay of Chaleur is now universal. The Bay is more than ninety miles long, and receives the waters of fully sixty rivers and streams. Sea and brook trout are found in nearly all of these tributaries, and in many of them the finest salmon are caught. It is rarely stormy, on account of the protection afforded by the projecting peninsulas, and the outlying islands, Shippegan and Miscou. The air is clear and pleasant, and fog is comparatively unknown. The tides, also, are quite moderate. American fishing fleets visit these waters every year. They may be seen in the spacious harbor of Miscou Island when they come there from the outer waters for shelter in stormy weather. The Bay of Chaleur has always been a favorite fishing-ground for New Englanders; for it was a Yankee captain of whom Whittier wrote in his “Skipper Ireson’s Ride,” describing the punishment meted out to that hard-hearted man for his cruelty in abandoning to its fate a sinking craft manned by his fellow-townsmen. “Small pity for him!—He sailed away From a leaking ship, in Chaleur Bay,— Sailed away from a sinking wreck, With his own town’s people on her deck! ‘Lay by! lay by!’ they called to him. Back he answered, ‘Sink or swim! Brag of your catch of fish again!’ And off he sailed through the fog and rain! Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead!” The land on the north side of the bay is very bold, and considerably varied. The Shickshock Mountains, running through the centre of the peninsula, attain a height of nearly 4,000 feet. The southern shore is much lower, with occasional elevations. The outlying parts of Chaleur Bay and much of the coast may be seen to advantage by taking a steamer from Montreal or Quebec down the St. Lawrence and into the bay. The boats of the GaspÉ Steamship Co. run from Montreal to GaspÉ and Port Daniel, calling at Matane and many other parts of the south shore of GaspÉ Peninsula. The boats of the Quebec Steamship Co. also run from Montreal to GaspÉ and other parts of the Maritime Provinces. A very good plan is to go from Campbellton to GaspÉ by the Canada of the Campbellton and GaspÉ Steamship Co. The boat puts in at many of the places along the north shore of Chaleur Bay, and affords an excellent opportunity for viewing the coast scenery. If preferred, the return journey may be made over the line of the Quebec Oriental Railway from GaspÉ, its present terminus, calling at Douglastown, Barachois and Cape Cove, etc.; or it may be varied by taking the steamship from GaspÉ to Grand River, to see the eastern Gaspesian coast by daylight, and making the remainder of the western journey by train from Grand River. The railway touches the towns and villages along the coast, connects with a ferry for Campbellton, and terminates at Matapedia. On the return trip a stop-off may be made at the principal places along the line. This trip may be reversed and changed as may be found most convenient. Presuming it has been decided to go all the way to GaspÉ by steamship, and to return by way of Grand River and the railway to Campbellton, a description of the country traversed now follows: Leaving Campbellton at about 11 a.m. and putting in at Dalhousie on the south shore, the steamship calls at Carleton, New Richmond, Bonaventure, New Carlisle, Port Daniel, Grand River, and PercÉ, etc., arriving at GaspÉ the next morning at 9 o’clock. The Bay of GaspÉ is both long and wide, being about twenty miles in length, with a width of five miles or more in its widest part. Rather more than half-way in a small peninsula makes out from the sandy beach to the south, and another from the northern shore. These afford admirable protection for the upper water or harbor, where there is room for a great fleet to ride at anchor. The view from the water approach to the town is delightful. “The mountains of GaspÉ are fair to behold, With their fleckings of shadow and gleamings of gold.” Several rivers empty into the bay and harbor, there are noble hills around, and behind the town the high mountains rise. A goodly fleet of whalers and fishing schooners leaves from this port, and the smaller craft with the numerous boats, etc., add greatly to the pleasant view that meets the eye on entering the port. No better spot could be selected for enjoying yachting, boating and fishing; while the cool air and splendid scenery leave nothing lacking for the enjoyment of those who come here. There are many visitors in the summer, and the life is a pleasant and social one. It was at GaspÉ that Jacques Cartier landed, took possession of the country in the name of his king, and erected a cross thirty feet high adorned with the fleur-de-lis of France. Here, also, a great naval engagement took place between the French and English, and here, too, in later years a great English fleet arrived and captured the village. The GaspÉ Peninsula was formerly a province, with its seat of government in this very town of GaspÉ. It is now part of the Province of Quebec. In this part also there survives a distinct tradition of the Norse discovery of America. The early Indians of this region are said to have been the most intelligent of all the North American tribes or peoples. They were far advanced in civilization, and had a fair knowledge of geography and astronomy. In connection with the visits of the Spaniards Velasquez and Gomez, and their meetings with the Gaspesian Indians, a fanciful tradition survives in relation to the origin of the word ‘Canada.’ The oft-repeated remark, “aca nada,” or ‘there is nothing here,’ made by the Castilian adventurers when disappointed in their search for gold, was judged to be of importance by the Indians, who frequently repeated it to Jacques Cartier. Cartier is supposed to have mistaken this oft-heard expression for the name of the new country. A more likely derivation, however, is found in the Indian compound word Caugh-na-daugh, or ‘village of huts;’ and this, it is thought, has gradually settled into the euphonious and easily pronounced name of ‘Canada.’ In later years the Micmac Indians were along the shores of the GaspÉ Peninsula in large numbers, but more recently they have almost deserted the region, and are to be found in New Brunswick, etc. It is related that when Lord Aylmer was Governor-General he once went on an excursion to GaspÉ. Micmac Indians to the number of nearly 500 flocked to welcome the ‘great chief.’ When the governor landed with a brilliant staff, he was met by Peter Basket, the great Micmac Chief, at the head of the aboriginal deputation. The chief, a fine, powerful man, and surrounded by his principal warriors, at once commenced a long oration in the usual solemn, singsong tone, accompanied with frequent bowings of the head. It happened that a vessel had been wrecked in the Gulf some months previously, and the Indians proving themselves ready and adroit wreckers had profited largely by the windfall. Among other things they had seized for personal adornment was a box full of labels for decanters, marked in conspicuous characters, ‘Rum,’ ‘Gin,’ ‘Brandy,’ etc. The chief had his head liberally encircled with the usual ornaments, and, in addition, had dexterously affixed to his ears and nose some of the labels as bangles. At first they were not particularly noticeable amid the general novelty of the spectacle, but while listening to the prolonged harangue of the chief, the governor began to scrutinize his appearance and dress; and then his ears and nose with the labels inscribed ‘Brandy.’ ‘Gin,’ ‘Rum,’ etc. Glancing towards his staff he could no longer maintain his gravity, and was joined in a hearty but indecorous burst of unrestrainable laughter. GASPÉ PENINSULA
The indignant chief, with his followers, immediately withdrew, and would neither be pacified nor persuaded to return, although the cause of the ill-timed merriment was explained to him. Sunrise on the GaspÉ is a beautiful sight. The long stretch of sandy beach, the opposite shore with the pine and fir trees in the far background, the houses of the fishermen, the boats on the strand, the waving fields of grain, the ever-brightening sun tinting all with increasing light, and in the distant offing the dark hull of a vessel that has not yet passed into the bay; all make a new picture. “What a delightful haven of rest GaspÉ is for the overworked and sleepless New Yorker!” remarked a Gothamite who makes this his summer home. Another, on his return from mackerel fishing exclaimed, “What a glorious spot to recuperate exhausted nature! No noise, no telegrams, no trusts, no bank troubles, no corporation frauds, no boodlers, no presidential elections!...... Instead, sleep, bracing air and incomparable landscapes.” No one is in a hurry here. They get up when they like. They do not rush—they saunter. No feverish haste to do anything. If a thing is not done to-day—very good, it may be done tomorrow. Idle older people smoke all day, gossip a bit, take a walk, and otherwise amuse themselves. They retire early and sleep soundly, undisturbed by civilization’s din. A characteristic little story is related by Lemoine in his excellent ‘Maple Leaves,’ or Explorations in the Lower St. Lawrence. It seems that the government of the day had sent a commissioner to GaspÉ to enquire into the discipline, etc., of the county prison there. When he arrived, he found the jailer sitting on the court house steps, in an easy chair, smoking a huge Dutch meerschaum. This is a transcript of the dialogue that ensued: “Won’t you step in, Mr. Commissioner, and see how we manage here. My turnkey is away catching his winter’s cod. My prisoners are all in good health, and I have eighteen of them.” “I should like to see them,” replied the visiting official. “Are you in a hurry—will it do after supper?” asked the genial jailer. “I will have them all here then.” “I cannot wait,” replied the official, “as I have to make up my report at once.” “Sorry you have so little time,” the jailer now remarked; “the fact is, my prisoners take a turn in the country every morning, There is excellent fishing in the York and Dartmouth Rivers, as well as in the waters of the harbor and bay; and visitors in pleasant GaspÉ have no lack of general summer amusements. Steering south and crossing Mal Bay, the fishing village of PercÉ is reached, a district made remarkable by the neighboring PercÉ Rock and Bonaventure Island. After leaving PercÉ, the steamship passes between island and rock and affords fine views of both. Bonaventure Island acts as a breakwater for the PercÉ shores from which it is distant about two-and-a-half miles. Its inhabitants are fishermen. The island is a mass of rock with cliffs nearly 500 feet high, and a sail around it is very enjoyable. Several desperate naval engagements have taken place nearby. It is at the PercÉ Rock, however, that interest centres itself strongly. PercÉ Rock is nearly 300 feet high and about 500 feet long. Its precipitous sides rise directly from the sea. The huge cliff is pierced by a lofty arch under which boats sometimes pass. Formerly there was a second arch or tunnel near the outer end of the rock, but it fell with a great crash, leaving only a high pillar of what had stood before. The top is covered with grass; and sea birds in great numbers make it their home. Their loud cries have often helped to guide home the mariner when caught in a fog. Of the general scenery found here much may be written that is favorable. The village has two coves and is divided by the Mont Joli headland. Artists and lovers of wild and romantic scenery may find here all that their hearts desire. Mont Ste. Anne in rear of the village rises almost abruptly to a height of 1300 feet or more, and is the first sight of land obtained from vessels coming up the Gulf to the south of the Island of Anticosti. On a clear day it may be seen sixty miles away. The ascent towards French Town commands a good general view, and makes an excellent standpoint In the GaspÉ Country The road through the mountain gorge or highway connecting PercÉ with GaspÉ Basin has been likened to the best of Swiss scenery. A number of quaint legends have their origin in connection with the PercÉ Rock. These all turn on the white and ghost-like vapor often seen over the rock in the dim light, caused by flocks of birds circling overhead in fantastic array before alighting. It is told that a Breton maid lost her life here and that her spirit still haunts the scene. Her lover in the days of long ago came to the New Land to seek his fortune. She, his promised bride, he left behind, until he could make a living and a home for her. He prospered, and soon sent back word for her to come. She left, but met a terrible fate on the way, for her ship was captured by Spanish This preyed on her mind to such an extent that at last, when they drew near the place that was to have been the scene of her happiness, she jumped overboard—the vigilance of her watchers for a moment relaxed. She sank, and all attempts to rescue were vain. As they were cruising about and searching the water, the lookout discovered what appeared to be a woman rising from the water with dripping garments. It was nearing sunset and the vessel gradually drew near the rock, lured by the figure. It was soon discovered that the ship was slowly sinking, and orders were given to wear away from the haunted spot. In vain the crew tried to obey. It was hopeless; for the ship was turning to stone, her masts had become pillars of iron, her sails—slate. Rapidly sinking she drew near to the PercÉ Rock, and before the pirates could jump over to swim ashore, they were turned to stone. The doomed ship immediately struck the rock and became part of it. Yonder point is said to have been the vessel’s bowsprit, there was the foremast, here the stern. Once clearly visible, they are now worn down by wind and wave so that they appear to be an integral part of the rock itself; but although the ship’s identity is lost, the wraith of the poor Breton maid lingers ever near the spot. Those living near believe she will depart and be at rest when the last vestige of the pirate ship shall have vanished. It is said that sunset is the time to see the ghostly presence, and so well is this believed that no fisherman dares to drop a line near the spot when the evening sun dips low. Some ten miles south-west of PercÉ is Cape Despair, near which Queen Anne’s great fleet under Admiral Walker met grave disaster in the great storm that scattered and almost destroyed it. Eight large vessels were wrecked, and the bodies of several thousand men were strewn along this shore and on that of Egg Island. Fragments of the wrecks were to be seen along the coast until quite recently. Here the “Flying Dutchman” The coast now makes off almost west, and soon the little fishing village of Grand River, on the river of that name, is reached. This was the former terminus of the coastal railway that now extends to GaspÉ. If desired, the return journey by rail to Campbellton may start from here. Grand River has a good wharf and is a place of call for steamers from Montreal, Campbellton, Dalhousie, etc. The country is pleasant and rolling, while the scenery on the river is both varied and picturesque. The fishing rights are leased, as is the custom through the greater part of this province. The open sea washes the shore, and the air is very enjoyable. The river affords excellent canoeing. Passing Pabos and the outlets of the Great and Little Pabos Rivers, the spreading village of Port Daniel is seen, comfortably placed on and near the river of that name and its tributaries, as well as by the head of its own picturesque little bay. Near here, at Pointe-au-Maquerau, the steamship Colborne went ashore with a valuable cargo of silks, wine, hardware, silver-plate and specie. This was strewn in great confusion along Harrington’s Cove, and even at Port Daniel. Much was picked up by wreckers from GaspÉ and PercÉ; and the auction sale of the salvage brought wealth to many along the shore, for the cargo was worth over $400,000. From the top of the Cap au Diable mountain range a splendid panoramic view may be seen. The rivers of this district are full of wild fowl in the spring and fall. The Grand Pabos is quite a fine stream. Not far away is Duck Cove, a pretty spot with a clear little stream running down to the sea. West of Newport there is a rocky little island close to the shore, well wooded in the center and admirably suited for the erection of a small bungalow or summer home. PercÉ Village Further west is some of the wildest hill scenery, with rocky gorges, and where foaming brooks may be seen cascading seawards in a series of minute waterfalls. A bold and rising series of hills marks the approach to the Gascon Capes, in the valleys of which the streams make sheer plunges down to the shore line with many a fall of picturesque beauty. Just between Gascons and Port Daniel a branch of the Port Daniel River winds a devious course to the ocean. On one side a huge precipice rises, inaccessible and almost vertical. The river washes its base, while on the other side rolling hills and a more-shelving shore make it possible to walk near the river bed. Some of the headlands and caves are very striking. The minute beaches or sand-strips are covered at high tide, so that at such time it is impossible to obtain a view save from above, or from the tip of some further projecting rocky spur thrown out from the main cape. Near Port Daniel may be observed a feature that is common on the north Chaleur shore, for the inrush of the tide has carved out lateral scoops in the sides of the inlets and bays, so that inwardly projecting horns make a good anchorage for boats and vessels where the sound of the breaking waves may plainly be heard coming from the outer sides. Sometimes a short distance of ten or twenty yards is all that separates the active sea from the quiet haven. Some of the smaller streams have trees on opposite banks, meeting close and mingling their shade overhead for mile after mile. In many cases the only way to fish or view some pleasant water-course is to walk in the water—for the banks generally rise abruptly. It is only by the wider streams that gravel strips or edges of green sward give a dry foothold. The pretty brooks and streams between Grand River and Cascapedia have pure and sparkling water in their channels, and these, like the streams to the east, are bordered by perpendicular banks that are grass-grown and plentifully covered with a profusion of wild flowers. Paspebiac, the inhabitants of which are called “Papsy-Jacks” by the English-speaking people hereabouts, with part of the village towards the shore, tree-embowered, presents a pleasing aspect with its group of vessels of good size lying in its clear waters. It stands on a gentle slope that runs down to the sea. Near here the railroad track runs very close to the brink of the cliff, so close The Bonaventure is a river of fair size on which lumbering is done, as on all the important streams of the peninsula. Clean lumbering, such as the floating of logs, does not spoil these excellent fishing rivers. It is the sawdust and mill refuse that is harmful, and there is a strict provision against this and other forms of pollution throughout the whole of the Maritime Provinces. In the neighborhood of New Richmond and the Grand and Little Cascapedia Rivers the hills are mountainous and beautiful, and a fine panorama of country is unfolded in proceeding west. The village of Cascapedia is delightfully situated; and the river takes a charming course through the finest of scenery, dividing into forks and making many a turn in its course. New Richmond is prettily situated in the midst of hills and valleys in a country that is finely wooded. The district is well watered, situated as it is between the two Cascapedia Rivers. The head waters of the main stream reach well up towards the St. Lawrence, and almost into connection with the Matane. There are lakes of good size within convenient reach. The country from here to Carleton, at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash Mountain, is full of interest and beauty. Gray sand, dark firs seeking a foothold on the mountains, the meadows, the hay fields, the bright yellow of the grain crops, the dark brown nearer mountains and the blue-black distant range, overcapped by clinging clouds, and the steamy vapor in long filaments lining the folds of the hills that fade away into distance to right and left, are all fair to behold. The pure white wings of the seabirds, even when far away, are outlined with sharp cut distinction against the lofty mountain background. Here and there a tiny little hamlet hides modestly behind the sheltering green, and the first glimpse of its presence is often the top of the church spire barely showing through the leafy canopy. Yonder a few dark roofs peep out from over the trees of lesser growth, and down the shore are lighthouses and neat little wharves for vessels and steamers. Owing to the long and narrow dimensions of the farms, and their subdivision for various crops, the shore often presents Carleton is a pleasant and cool little spot, spreading out crescent-shaped on table land at the foot of the hills and right on the shore, fronted by a clean sand beach. The village is peopled by descendants of the Acadian French who came here from Tracadie. It lies almost in a nook, nicely sheltered. The Bay of Carleton is a fine sheet of water, with the points of Miguasha and Tracadiegetch at its western and eastern boundaries. The little river Nouvelle empties into its western end. It is a good place for sea fish, and the brooks and streams inland are stocked with trout. The Chaleur Bay shore of the GaspÉ Peninsula has many attractions for summer visitors, for being somewhat removed from the regular highways of travel it still preserves its old-time appearance. Those who spend a vacation in any of its homelike villages or towns cannot fail to be pleased with all they will find there. The great hunting and fishing opportunities are described under the chapter “Where to Go.” In leaving the GaspÉ shore, the province of Quebec is left behind, and further progress east and south is in the province of New Brunswick. The once fire-swept, but again busy and prosperous, town of Campbellton stands at the head of the navigable deep-water of Chaleur Bay. The surrounding country is well diversified and exceedingly picturesque with its valleys and conical hills. The Sugar Loaf boldly overlooks all from an elevation of over 900 feet. An excellent view of the broad Restigouche River may be had from almost any part of the town. Campbellton has good wharves and much shipping; it is also a busy Intercolonial Railway centre. Because of its admirable situation it is a natural centre for hunting, fishing and canoeing trips, and it makes a good base for camping-out parties. It is also finely adapted for summer residence of those who like to spend their vacation in a town centre convenient to outlying country and places of interest. Almost directly over the river is Cross Point, sometimes called Mission Point. Here there is a reservation occupied by 500 Micmac Dalhousie—Along the Harbor Shore A few miles up the Restigouche above Campbellton a naval encounter took place between the French and English, off Restigouche, that resulted in the capture of the French and the destruction of the shore defences at Battery Point. The whole place went up in flames. Pieces of the old French vessels, and artillery, shells and scraps of camp fittings have been found in the neighborhood. Dalhousie with its extensive water front, divided between river and bay shore, its streets of generous length and proportion and its pleasant walks and cool air, is a quiet place for summer enjoyments. Here, as at Campbellton, there are splendid opportunities for motor-boating open to those who take their own boats. There is a very comfortable and homelike summer hotel on the ocean front, about two miles from the Intercolonial Railway station. Here boats are provided free of charge to guests. There is excellent bathing, with good country and coastwise walks and rambles. A pleasant life with restful surroundings may be enjoyed here. The Charlo River is one of that fine chain of watering places or summer resorts that stretches down the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Atlantic shore, following the line of the Intercolonial Railway. From Charlo, and east, the wide, open waters of the Gulf are gradually reached; but strong as this district is in water privileges and cool air, it has other features that are almost greater. For Charlo is one of those delightful country places where fine woods abound, where glorious country roads stretch out in many a shady avenue of noble trees, and where a romantic river dashes and plays over rocks, tumbles over falls, courses through gorges, ripples under bridges, rests by the meadows and slumbers under the shady hills. For fishermen it has great attraction, because it is an “open” stream; but a still greater lure is the fact that fine salmon are caught there, and the waters are not fished out. For some reason, probably because of its pure water, salmon often turn into the Charlo in large numbers. On that account and because of the total absence of urban life, excellent fishing is the result. The Charlo is a stream full of beauty, and one that the nature-lover may enjoy to his heart’s content. The country around and every approach to the river is clean, picturesque and unspoiled by vandal crowds. There are no excitements and no startling incidents in the quiet life of the place. On the other hand, there is every suitable surrounding and inducement to enjoy nature, to live a life of quiet ease varied by healthful recreation amidst enjoyable surroundings—a life that best fits the vacationist for active winter work in the crowded city. The conformation of the country through which the river runs is such that fishing may readily be done in many places without boats. Another advantage is that the river is close at hand. It is not necessary to go a considerable distance before a line may be well cast, for a short walk leads to woodland depths, leafy shade and the secluded, rippling stream. CHARLO RIVER
A pleasant and comfortable place is found at Henderson’s, near the bay shore, not far from the mouth of the Charlo River, where there is a combination of country hotel, farmhouse and home. Here visitors will feel at home from the moment they arrive. The house, built somewhat on the old French plan with an open court behind and upper story verandas, has excellent porches surrounding it, a pleasant outlook, and the bay shore a short distance in its rear accessible for boating and bathing. Bungalows are being erected, and a very enjoyable social life is enjoyed by the happy fraternity that congregates here from various parts of Canada and the U.S.A. A plan sometimes followed is that of living in a simple but comfortable bungalow on the shore, taking meals at the inn. Shacks and tents are also put up by the proprietor for those who wish to enjoy outdoor life to its full extent. Charlo, then, is one of those rare places where the sportsman may take his wife and family, with the certainty of being comfortably housed and cared for, and where all may amuse themselves with quiet recreations of a healthful kind while he is away fishing the stream for the noble salmon. It is also one of those summer places where there are no throngs, and where the number found assembled in the summer time is just right for social blending in one happy colony. When the fishermen have returned, and all have admired the day’s catch, and when supper is over, how pleasant as twilight is setting in to gather on the porches for intercourse, to recline in easy chair, or to swing lazily in hammock for rest. And as the young people wander off in “twos” and “threes,” but mostly in “twos,” to see the glorious sunset from the porch of a St. Lawrence bungalow or cottage; the fisherman, the nature-lover, the charming bevy of young married ladies, their attentive husbands, the sedate couples of riper age, and even the militant suffragette who did not go off in one of the “twos”—all these gather to enjoy the dolce far niente of a cool, summer evening in Charlo. A larger stream than the Charlo, but one that has its fishing rights leased, is the Jacquet River. Arrangements may easily be made, however, by which a day or two or a week’s fishing, or longer, may be obtained at moderate cost. There is a growing feeling in many pleasant places, such as Jacquet River, that individual fishing Charlo—A Path through the Woods The whole neighborhood of the Jacquet River is a pleasant one, with good woods and shady roads. There is a picturesque little cove, with high and rocky banks, where boats may be kept, and the sandy beach of which offers a desirable spot for children’s play. The upper reaches of the river are quite pretty, the drives are good, and the country is well varied with hill and dale. Passing east along the bay shore and dipping south by the water-bend that forms Nepisiguit Bay, the town of Bathurst is reached. This, one of the principal sporting centres of the province, is in itself a pleasant summer resort, and, in addition, is a starting point for a series of inner country places, as well as for tours and journeys over the Nepisiguit River and to the interior lakes. The town is situated on a tidal lagoon which is an inlet from the great Chaleur Bay. The Nepisiguit and three smaller rivers empty their Pabineau, the Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit, and the upper waters of the river may all be reached from Nepisiguit Junction, from whence the short line of the Northern New Brunswick Railway leads, and by which a way to these places and the inner lakes is opened. In this direction many pleasant outings may be enjoyed. To picnic by the rushing rapids, or on a bluff in full view of the falls, is a unique experience and one that will be long remembered. The short railroad referred to, which connects Bathurst with the iron mines of the Nepisiguit, is a regular sporting highway—in summer for the fishing, and in the fall for hunting. The eastern arm of the Chaleur Bay is traversed by a railroad that runs from Gloucester Junction and Bathurst to Caraquet, Shippegan and Tracadie. There are several quiet places on this shore that are quite quaint, and suited for those who wish to be off the main route of travel. Caraquet is a pleasant little Acadian settlement where sea fishing is carried on. Shippegan is on an excellent harbor, and here deep-sea fishing and cool air may be enjoyed. From Shippegan a crossing may be made by boat to the island of the same name, a distance of about a mile. From Miscou Harbor, at the northern end of Shippegan Island, a crossing may be made in quiet water to the outermost island of Miscou, or a boat may be taken instead from Caraquet. Both of these islands afford the best of wild-bird shooting in the fall, such as geese, duck, plover, etc. Miscou is an old French settlement, and from its harbor many boats were formerly engaged in walrus hunting. Off Miscou a curious fresh-water spring spouts up through the briny sea and retains its freshness. Fishermen obtain drinking water here without the necessity for going ashore. Poling up Stream The whole Chaleur shore from the region of Charlo River down to Bathurst is a network of small rivers and streams where trout may always be found; and because of their favorable position the pleasant towns and villages that line this coast are sure to grow and increase in favor as summer places. By the Miramichi River decorative border
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