  Between Truro and Stellarton there is a continuance of the pleasant scenery found in the Truro Valley; but the Northumberland Straits Shore and neighboring territory between Oxford Junction and Stellarton, and beyond that to Mulgrave and the Strait of Canso, has features of its own quite unlike those of the country previously described. The nearest approach in general characteristics is found at the mouth of the Miramichi, and in the neighborhood of Point du Chene. It is a country of meadow lands and tranquil rivers, although as Antigonish and other places are approached the meadows are frequently varied by the addition of hills and occasional rolling land. It is a land of verdure and freshness; and if bold mountain ranges are absent, in their place will be found prolific meadows, luxurious tree-growth, quiet streams, singing birds, and abundant floral life. “’Twas in June’s bright and glorious prime, The loveliest of the summer time, The laurels were one splendid sheet Of crowded blossoms every where; The locust’s clustered pearl was sweet, And the tall whitewood made the air Delicious with the fragrance shed From the gold flowers all o’er it spread.” Pugwash is a quiet and modest little watering place on the Northumberland Straits, only a short run from Oxford Junction. There is bathing on the shore, and boating in the excellent harbor. Some The scenery by Tatamagouche River, and also by the Swiss settlement of River John, is very enjoyable. A pleasing sheet of water is at Tatamagouche. The land is low, but the bay winds and turns and has little coves in it, so that it makes an attractive waterway for boating and canoeing. Malagash Point makes out at the far western extremity of the main bay. The Tatamagouche is a pretty little stream with picturesque banks—the flat country here gradually taking a moderate elevation in parts. River John is a stream of fair proportions, nicely wooded with young trees along its gentle sloping banks of brightest green. Going east from here the country becomes somewhat undulating, and on approaching Lyon’s Brook and Pictou, hills of bolder height are seen. The country through which we are passing is that of the blackbird and the bobolink, and the rivers, water reaches and tall grasses are the homes of wild fowl of almost every kind. “The redwinged merle, from bending spray On graceful pinions poising, Pours out a liquid roundelay In jubilant rejoicing. The cock-grouse drums on sounding log, The fox forsakes his cover, The woodcock pipes from fen and bog, From upland leas the plover. The speckled trout dart up the stream, Beneath the rustic bridges, While flocks of pigeons glance and gleam O’er beach and maple ridges. The golden robin trills his note Among the netted shadows, The bobolink with mellow throat Makes musical the meadows.” Pictou is situated on a fine harbor, possibly the finest along the shore, which has three rivers emptying into it. It is a delightful little summer resort, where many enjoyable drives may be taken into the surrounding country. Walks about will reveal many charming spots. There are pretty brooks, and refreshing woodland walks. The boating is excellent, and the nearby shore offers pleasant variety in coves and tiny creeks. There is a clean sand beach for sheltered or harbor bathing. Good trout fishing will also be found in the surrounding streams. Lord Strathcona has a summer home in the neighborhood. The East River communicates with New Glasgow, only some 9 miles distant. The growing town of Westville is on the Middle River. West River has much pretty scenery along its course, and it is here that most of the fishing is done. Pictou was once the site of a large Indian village. Later the French tried to build up a settlement and they were followed by Pennsylvanians from the neighborhood of Philadelphia. Finally, many hardy Highlanders found their way here, and by them the real settlement was made. At the mouth of Pictou harbor the last fight between the Kennebec and Micmac Indians took place. Stages leave here for many places of interest along the shore, and also to some inland points. Steamships also leave for Prince Edward Island, for Quebec and St. Lawrence Gulf ports, for Hawkesbury and the Strait of Canso, and for West Cape Breton and the Magdalen Islands. The whole neighborhood is a pleasant one, and, in addition, there is some of the life of a busy little town that many tourists consider essential in a summer stopping-place. ANTIGONISH
The country between Truro and Stellarton on the southern loop or main line of the Intercolonial Railway has not been opened up or developed for summer visitors. It is nevertheless a beautiful country; and walks, drives and excursions by rail from Truro or New Glasgow along the pretty hills, vales and streams will bring much pleasure. Stellarton and New Glasgow are growing and prosperous coal-mining and manufacturing centres. Stellarton is the centre of a coal district from which immense quantities of that valuable fuel have been mined. New Glasgow is a bright and up-to-date town with excellent stores and commercial facilities. There are pleasant drives along the East River, and to the south. Proceeding east past Merigomish and other small places, the very interesting and pretty town of Antigonish, at the head of a small harbor on St. George’s Bay, is reached. It is a Scottish settlement that has more individuality and charm than would be thought possible for a town on a railroad. It is a place of pleasant shady streets, picturesque hills, winding streams and numerous bridges. Its fine Catholic Cathedral and modern College are conspicuous objects from all around. Antigonish is not spoiled by the proximity of a large city, and so the life of the surrounding country centres in the busy little place; and it is one of those delightful places that somehow appeal to the heart from the first moment of arrival. The harbor is some distance off, and, being shallow, is little used. There are very pleasant drives in every direction. For a pleasant stay in a pretty country town, few places will please more than this; and for those who like that pastime, some canoeing may be done in the adjacent waters. The climate is very enjoyable, mild and temperate. The nights are lovely. “On summer nights the yellow stars Shine through the watches held on high Suspended from the countless spars Of cloud-fleets anchored in the sky; And wafted past upon the breeze Slow winding down from distant heights There comes the roll of far-off seas On summer nights. * * * * * On summer nights the steadfast stars Swing from the masts of shadow ships That lie within the harbor bars Where the long sea-roll curls and dips; And still there comes in divers keys Down drifting from those beacon lights The spectral wash of far-off seas On summer nights.” Antigonish is an important centre for stage coach and other drives to many places of great interest. The route to Lochaber, College Lake and Sherbrooke leads past the Antigonish Mountains to the St. Mary’s River and Atlantic Ocean on the south, and is full of variety. There are drives to Morristown and Georgeville, and to Malignant Cove by a delightful road through the hills. It was here that the British frigate Malignant took the shore in a heavy gale. Near here is the Scottish settlement of Arisaig, which has a romantic situation and a little shelter-harbor. At Heatherton Station a stage may be taken for Guysboro at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It is a most interesting drive. Beyond Heatherton lies Tracadie, a quaint French district where there is a Trappist Monastery, the Belgian Monks of which make excellent farmers. Both in Tracadie and Harbor au Bouche a quaint old-time life is lived, and the places are well worth a visit. Proceeding now to the most easterly railroad point in peninsular Nova Scotia, the village of Mulgrave is reached. Mulgrave is on the Strait of Canso, the much-travelled marine highway from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and by the use of which the long voyage around the Island of Cape Breton is rendered unnecessary. It has been termed the “Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence,” and without doubt is a most picturesque waterway. Thousands of vessels pass through here every year, and at almost any hour of the day the sight is a pleasant one and full of variety. Bold and plentifully wooded hills flank the splendid waterway for a The town of Guysboro is quite an old settlement, for Nicholas St. Denys had a fishing station at the place now known as Fort Point. The fisheries here have always been very valuable, and Chedabucto, at the head of which Guysboro is, has been the resort of many vessels engaged in fishing for mackerel, herring, codfish and pollock. The settlement itself with its long street of most generous width lying along the water, at a little distance from it, and the grassy little streets on the overlooking hills, is very attractive as a quiet summer resort, with good boating and canoeing. As a centre for sailing and excursions by water, and also for drives in every direction, it is excellent. Being somewhat remote, it is a place where a restful summer may be spent, with cool air and genial surroundings. Like Antigonish, it is a place with a homelike air that takes the fancy from the very first; and here, of course, boating and fishing are at the very door. There are pleasant water trips nearby to Milford Haven and Boylston, and innumerable longer excursions to places on Chedabucto Bay, to Isle Madame and other Cape Breton points, as well as to Hawkesbury and Mulgrave on the Strait of Canso. There are good drives, also, with fishing sport, to Salmon River and surrounding lakes, as well as to Whitehead, Tor Bay and other places on the outer Atlantic coast. In summer the water of Chedabucto Bay is ordinarily quiet and smooth, and it takes just a moment to pass out into the open bay from Guysboro’s little shelter-harbor. When a gale blows from the east, the sea piles up in rollers and sweeps up to the harbor entrance in fine commotion. It is a place half-country and half-shore, with sea life predominating. Guysboro “I picked up shells with ruby lips That spoke in whispers of the sea, Upon a time, and watched the ships, On white wings, sail away to sea. The ships I saw go out that day Live misty—dim in memory; But still I hear, from far away, The blue waves breaking ceaselessly.” The coast line west of Chedabucto Bay is rich in bays and roomy inlets, with numerous lakes and rivers in communication. The St. Mary’s River waters a fine tract of country, and connects with the beautiful Lochaber Lake some thirty miles inland. A stage-coach drive across the peninsula from beautiful Antigonish to the head navigation waters of the St. Mary’s River at Sherbrooke is an enjoyable summer outing. The scenery is finely varied, and the whole district is full of interest. On the middle St. Mary’s River good salmon fishing is often found at the Crow’s Nest, a typical interior country place. Considerable salmon fishing with nets is carried on in the lower waters of the river between Sherbrooke and Sonora on the coast, a distance of about nine miles. The village of Sherbrooke has a very pleasant situation on the river, and it is one of those quiet and remote places where a thoroughly restful vacation may be enjoyed by those who love country life and pleasant rambles. There is excellent boating at Sherbrooke, as well as above and below it. Motor-boats have a fine nine-mile run to the ocean, with numerous excursion points within easy reach of the mouth of the river. The canoeing waters of Sherbrooke are excellent. A delightful holiday may be spent by making headquarters in the village to explore the upper waters of the river. There are pleasant settlements all along the course up to its head waters. Being remote from regular travel routes, the district is fresh and unspoiled; and those who enjoy absolute quiet, unconventional life and a friendly welcome will be sure to feel at home in Sherbrooke. Country Harbour to the east, and Sheet Harbour, Port Dufferin and Musquodoboit to the west are all pleasant little places. Antigonish A railroad is to be built, along the south-east shore between Halifax and Guysboro. When it is finished, the fine harbors and the rugged and romantic places along the shore will be brought within easy reach of the summer visitor. In the meantime such places are fairly accessible by stage-coach from points on the Intercolonial Railway between Shubenacadie and Heatherton or Antigonish; and they may also be reached by steamboat from Halifax and Guysboro or Mulgrave. Baddeck—Leaving for Sydney decorative border
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