  With a splendid situation on the slopes of a great harbor, Halifax invites within her hospitable gates all who would sojourn for a while on the shore of the breezy Atlantic. Here is surely a world-harbor, with magnificent approaches, where fleets from every country may ride in security, and here, more than in any port of Canada, the marine of every nation, and the giant warship, too, may be seen. As many as fourteen men-of-war, or battleships, have anchored here at one time, and the Atlantic liners, the traders, the coasting steamers, the sailing vessels and the multitude of sloops, fishing-smacks, yawls, sail boats, launches and row boats all contribute to the general busy life of the port. Its position on the eastern coast is supreme and cannot be challenged, a position that indeed makes it an Empire port in every sense. So much is this the case that with the assured growth of Canada, Halifax must always keep pace; and at no very distant day a harbor rivalling that of New York, a second Liverpool, will come into being, and Halifax will be the seaport of a great British Canadian Empire. The city has been termed the Cronstadt of America, and it well deserves the name, for its wharves and anchorages are at the inner end of a great five-mile waterway, the banks and islands of which provide commanding positions for the eventful day when “war’s alarms” shall make defense inevitable. Active and stirring scenes have been witnessed here during the past century. Privateers, blockade-runners, convoys or merchantmen, and war vessels with prizes have well covered the inner waters of the harbor. Busy times those, when in one day forty full-rigged The Indian name for the water approach to Halifax was Chebucto, the meaning of which is “greatest of havens.” The old name was well given, for it is undoubtedly one of the world’s great harbors. The settlement received its present name about the middle of the eighteenth century, in compliment to Lord Halifax, the sponsor being Cornwallis. The founding of Halifax was attended with great difficulties owing to the hostility of the French and their Indian allies. The original settlers came from England and the New England colonies, as well as from Louisbourg when it was given up to the French by treaty. At that time the woods ran to the water’s edge, and every foot of ground where now stands the city had to be carved out of the forest. Boards and squared timber were brought from Boston to build the first shelters. Some twenty years after the settlement was showing signs of a steady growth considerable excitement was caused by the arrival of 600 Maroons who had been transported from Jamaica for participation in a rebellion against the authorities of that island. They caused much trouble, and showed a general unwillingness to work or do anything useful. At first this did not show strongly, and work was done by them on that part of the fortification known as the Maroon Bastion. But later they became disaffected and troublesome. One complained that he had to work his farm to get food. Another objected because yams, bananas and cocoa would not grow in Nova Scotia. A third was angry because there were no wild hogs to hunt. Instead of being a help to the Colony, they were an encumbrance; and troops had to be detailed to keep guard and prevent an outbreak. Their life was altogether foreign to the country in which they found themselves, and their customs could not be grafted on the tree of Nova Scotian life. They became dissipated, and the only work they would do was to hunt or fish. They were polygamous; they buried their dead with unheard of rites in the hollows of the rocks, provided rum, pipe, tobacco and two days’ rations, and thus sent off the ghost of the departed for his journey to the undiscovered land. Fortunately at this time a place was found for them in Sierra Leone in the land from which they had originated, and greatly to the relief of Sir John Wentworth, the governor at that time, they departed, accompanied by general rejoicings of all in Halifax. Maroon Hall, their former headquarters, has completely decayed; but the great cellar may still be seen by the waters of Cole Harbor to the east of Halifax. Purcell’s Cove, Halifax The city retains more traces of its British origin than any other place in America. Just as Quebec is essentially French, so is Halifax peculiarly British; and to go from one of these places to the other, and yet to realize that both are on the Western Continent, is to experience many surprises. Canada is not old enough to have imposing cities. To many this is cause for congratulation, for who would care to go from New York to Halifax to see a second Gotham; while visitors from Chicago, Philadelphia, Ontario, and Western Canada find in old Halifax much that is absolutely new to them. May these conditions continue for many years to come, for there is nothing incompatible between progress and the preservation of all old and well-tried things that fit in with and do not block the wheels of the car in which we all travel, and that has marked above it the direction “Onward!” Halifax is one of those restful and delightful places where each day’s recreation and exercise brings a night of peace and repose, and where all the conveniences of modern life may be enjoyed without the turmoil and din of the too-bustling city. And the country, the woods, the lakes and the streams are all quite near; so that a life half-city, half-country, may be lived without the inconvenience of having to study traffic conditions at “rush” hours, etc. In your rambles without the city you will come to a charming little lake, with a fairy like boat resting tranquilly on its quiet surface, where wild flowers spread a fragrant carpet around, and gay little songbirds are in concert on the quivering birches. You will stop to drink in the beauties of the delightful scene, and possibly as you do so you will notice a young couple whose marriage, apparently, is only a week or two in the past. Could there be a better paradise, the world over, for bridal couples than the Maritime Provinces! They are gazing with rapt attention at the scene, and you believe they are talking. Are you curious to know what he is saying and what she replies. Listen! he is speaking. “There’s not a little boat, sweetheart, That dances on the tide;— There’s not a nodding daisy-head In all the meadows wide,— In all the warm green orchards, Where bright birds sing and stray, There’s not a whistling oriole So glad as I this day.” * * * * * She said, “In all the purple hills, Where dance the lilies blue, Where all day long the sleeping larks Make fairy-tales come true. Where you can lie for hours and watch The unfathomable sky, There’s not a breath of all the June That’s half so glad as I!” A conspicuous feature, visible from almost any part of the city, is the Citadel. From its height a splendid and inspiring view may be had of an immense stretch of country; while the harbor, the coast and the surrounding waters are spread at the feet like a huge map in relief. There is no better way of becoming acquainted with the plan of the city and environs; for by walking around the ramparts every outlying area may be seen reaching in to the streets immediately below. By the Citadel gate may be seen two mortars that were used at Louisbourg when that fortress surrendered to Amherst and Wolfe. Visitors are admitted to the citadel on payment of a small fee. The masonry work is enormously strong, and the old-world appearance of glacis, moat and bastion suggest great strength. It all typifies a fast-decaying system of fort defence, and on that account, and because so picturesque, it is worthy of the closest examination and interest. The one o’clock gun still booms from the upper rampart of the Citadel. HALIFAX
The modern fortifications for the defence of city and harbor are on the islands, and along the shores that make out to the entrance. On George’s Island is Fort Charlotte, and opposite is Fort Clarence. Forts Ogilvie, Cambridge and Point Pleasant are in the park. Ives’ Point and Fort MacNab are on MacNabs Island. York Redoubt crowns a bluff on the western side of the harbor, and Spion Kop is at Sambro by the harbor entrance. The Dockyard is an interesting place to visit, and the huge Dry Dock should be seen when a great vessel is within its gates. A favorite recreation on summer evenings is to row or drift in the harbor, and listen to the music given by the bands of the flagships when naval squadrons are in port. The Provincial Parliament Building contains many interesting historical portraits, and an excellent library that is strong in provincial, Acadian and early history, etc. The long oak table from the cabin of the Beaufort transport, around which sat the council when Cornwallis took the oath as Governor of Nova Scotia, is preserved in a room adjoining the Council Chamber. In the grounds may be seen the South African Memorial of the Nova Scotian soldiers who fell in the Boer War, and also the Statue of the many-sided Joseph Howe. A memorial to the soldiers who fell in the Crimean War is erected near the gates of St. Paul’s Old Churchyard; and not far away is Government House, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. City Hall stands in its own enclosure, and close by is the quaint old clock tower erected by the Duke of Kent near the foot of Citadel Hill. Punctual himself, he expected others to be equally so. In a nearby building will be found a Natural History Museum, open daily, and well worth seeing. St. Paul’s Church still includes as part of its structure much of the old portion erected soon after the founding of Halifax. American visitors will be interested in learning that the frame of the old building was imported from Massachusetts. Point Pleasant Park is one of the chief attractions for all who visit the city. It is a park of great natural beauty, situated at the outer end of the peninsula that includes Halifax. Here by the rocky points, on the banks, or from seats under the trees, splendid views of the harbor approaches may be obtained. Far out in the offing is the open sea where white-sailed vessels from many parts “Ah! what pleasant visions haunt me As I gaze upon the sea! All the old romantic legends, All my dreams, come back to me. Sails of silk and ropes of sendal, Such as gleam in ancient lore; And the singing of the sailors, And the answer from the shore! Till my soul is full of longing For the secret of the sea, And the heart of the great ocean Sends a thrilling pulse through me.” Ocean liners, steamships, sailing vessels, motor-boats and yachts are constantly passing, and the sight is full of pleasant variety. A walk to the old Martello Tower may be enjoyed by striking in from the sea over one of the ingoing paths; and enjoyable walks by the old Chain Fort, past the masked batteries, and around to the beautiful prospect of the North-West Arm, are all of convenient length, The Club House of the Royal Nova Scotian Yacht Squadron is near the Pleasant Street entrance to the park. The Public Gardens are easily accessible from almost any part of the city, being centrally situated. There are larger, but no finer botanical gardens than these, and the spreading trees, the shady walks, the ponds and lakes, the trim-kept green, the plants, and the great beds of splendid flowers, always in constant succession of bloom, make the “Gardens” a beautiful spot. It is a favorite centre of outdoor recreation and life, and here military band concerts and garden and water fetes are given through the summer. HALIFAX PARK SCENES
Everyone living anywhere near Halifax takes great pride in the beautiful expanse of water known as the North-West Arm. It is, as its name indicates, an arm of the sea that branches off from the bay and flows inland to the south of the city, in a north-westerly direction. It is about four miles long, and is crowned on each side by wooded banks. It is a great centre for canoeing, rowing, yachting, motor-boating, etc., as well as for bathing, diving, swimming and general aquatic sport. Here in the height of the summer the famous regattas are held, when the numerous club house porches, the banks of the water and every available spot is occupied to witness the races. The sight is gay, unique and peculiar, in its extent, to Halifax. The excursion steamers, sailing vessels, tugs, and boats of every description, as well as private yachts, launches, rowing boats and canoes that line the long course make an exhilarating scene, and one that brings many from hundreds of miles distant to witness it. Cricket, golf, tennis, curling, boating, canoeing, bathing and diving may all be enjoyed in or near the city; and the locality is a centre for good fishing and the best of hunting. Of the many favorite drives, one of the best is that along the shore of the Bedford Basin. High hills look down on the noble sheet of water, and at Bellevue, Bedford, etc., are comfortable stopping-places. Here the Duke of Kent lived, at that part of the shore known as Prince’s Lodge. The house has fallen in ruins, and all that remains is the bandstand. Many pretty bungalows and pleasant summer places are found along the shore. Along this shore camped the survivors of the great French Armada of 1746, that was to have conquered all British America. Of the 40 warships and 30 transports that left Brest, only a scattered remnant survived storm and disaster and was able to return to the home port. Halifax, Louisbourg and Annapolis were all to have been taken from the British by this formidable fleet. But disaster followed in the wake of nearly every vessel of the great squadron; for after being dispersed and scattered by heavy storms that destroyed many vessels of the fleet, the survivors became the prey of a violent and fatal sickness. They wintered along the shore of the Other good routes are those to Dutch Village and the Dingle, to the Chain Lakes, and to the Rocking Stone on the way to St. Margaret’s Bay. Lawrencetown, about two hours’ drive from Dartmouth, has a good beach with surf-bathing, and may be reached by stage. Chezzetcook, an old Acadian settlement, is also quite accessible in the same way. York Redoubt, Falkland Village and Herring Cove all make pleasant drives. The Musquodoboit River country to the east of Halifax had French settlements fully half a century before the first British settler arrived at what is now the great stronghold and capital city of Nova Scotia. Crossing to Dartmouth on the ferry a pleasant road leads to the Dartmouth Lakes. This beautiful chain of lakes is part of a system of waterways intended to be made continuous from Halifax and Dartmouth to the Bay of Fundy, at Maitland and Cobequid Bay, by means of the Shubenacadie River. A canal was to have connected the lakes and river, but the project fell through. The ruins of the old locks at the Dartmouth end are well worth seeing. Excellent views may be enjoyed from Dartmouth and Prince Arthur Parks. Many camping parties are found on the shores of the first and second lakes, and boating is there a favorite recreation. Another pleasant road is that to Cow Bay, where a fine beach and good bathing may be enjoyed. Regetta Day, Halifax “I leave the town with its hundred noises, Its clatter and whir of wheel and steam, For woodland quiet and silvery voices, With a camp of bark by a crystal stream. Oh, peaceful and sweet are forest slumbers On a fragrant couch with the stars above, As the free soul marches to dulcet numbers Through dreamland valleys of light and love.” Enjoyable trips may be made from Halifax to the Minas Basin, Grand PrÉ, and the Annapolis Valley; along the south shore to St. Margaret’s Bay, Chester, and Mahone Bay, Liverpool, Lockeport and Shelburne, and to Lakes Rossignol, Keejim-Koojie, Ponhook, etc. No port of Canada offers the numerous water trips that may be made from Halifax. Steamers leave here for St. John’s, Newfoundland; St. Pierre-Miquelon, Magdalen Islands, Pictou and Prince Edward Island, GaspÉ peninsular points, Sydney, Ingonish, Aspy Bay, Louisbourg, Glace Bay, Bras d’Or Lakes, Port Hood, Mabou and many other Cape Breton points; Guysboro, Mulgrave and other ports in the Strait of Canso; Country Harbor, Isaacs Harbor, Sherbrooke, Liscomb, Sonora, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, and many places along the east shore; Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne, Yarmouth on the south shore; St. John, N.B.; and finally, not including transatlantic ports, there are trips to Jamaica and Santiago: and to New York, Boston and Philadelphia. Other particulars of Halifax and eastern shore localities will be found in the chapter on “Where to Go.” The deep-sea fisheries of the South Shore are very large and important, and at Halifax and elsewhere along the coast ample opportunities are found for catching swordfish, leaping tuna, mackerel, codfish and haddock, etc. Whaling was formerly carried on by numerous vessels outfitting and sailing from Halifax. A settlement of Nantucket Whalers was made in Dartmouth, but they afterwards left; and the whaling industry gradually died out as a result of the great slaughter of those fish in early days. East River, near New Glasgow decorative border
|
|
