Departure. Madame de Sevigne. Dresden. Homoeopathic disposition. The art of
travelling comfortably. Reminiscences of youth. Weimar. Grand Duke’s library.
The Court. The park. Dinner at Court. Duke Bernhard. Anecdote. Visit to
GÖthe. A day in the Belvedere. Late Queen of Wurtemberg. Granby. English
abroad and at home.

1

Gotha. Old friends. Eisenach. The wedding. Hasty flights. The banks of the
Ruhr. Wesel. Fatherlandish sandbanks. Beautiful gardens of Holland. Foreign
air of the country. Culture. Utrecht. The cathedral at Gouda. Houses built
aslant. Fantastic windmills. Rotterdam. The civil banker. Pasteboard roofs.
The golden gondola. Ætna. The lovely girl. L’adieu de Voltaire.

9

The passage. The planter. The English custom-house. The lost purse. Macadamized
roads. Improvements of London. Specimens of bad taste. National
taste. The Regent’s Park. Waterloo bridge. London Hotels. The bazaars.
Walks in the streets. Shops. Dinner at the —— Ambassador’s. Johannisberg.
Chiswick. Decline of taste in the science of gardening. Favourable climate. The
menagerie. Life in the City. The universal genius. The exchange and Bank.
The gold cellar. Court of justice of the Lord Mayor. Garroway’s Coffee-house.
Rothschild. Nero. Exeter ‘Change. Wurtemberg diplomacy. Theatre in the
Strand. The ingenious man. Too much for money. Hampton Court. Dangerous
fumigation.

14

Climate. British Museum. Its guards. Strange Mischmasch. Journey to Newmarket.
English scenery. Life there. The races. The betting-post. Visit in the
country. English hospitality. The Dandy. Englishmen on the continent. National
customs. Order of dinner. Hot-houses. Audley end. The Aviary. Short
Grove. Sale of Land in England.

23

Advice to travellers. Clubs. Virtue and Umbrellas. Arrangement of Maps. English
wine. How an Englishman sits. Comfortable customs. Rules of behaviour.
Treatment of Servants. The higher classes. Rules of play. Pious wishes for
Germany. Good-breeding of a Viscount. The actor Liston. Madame Vestris.
‘Manger et digerer.’ Sentimental effusion. Inconvenient Newspapers. Drury-lane.
Braham the everlasting Jew. Miss Paton. Vulgarity of the theatre. Coarseness
of an English audience.

34

Barrel organs. Punch. His biography. Ruined Houses. The King in Parliament.
Contrast. George the Fourth. The Opera. Figaro without Singers. English
melodies. Charles Kemble. Costume of old times. Prince E——. A diplomatic
‘bon mot.’ Sir L—— M——. Practical Philosophy. Falstaff as he is and as he
should be. The King in Hamlet. The intelligent actor from Newfoundland. Little
circle in the great world. How the day passes here. Learning languages. The
author of Anastasius. His antique furniture. Oberon. The chorus of rocks.
Presentation to the King. Incidents at the levee. Dinner with Mr. R——. Real
piety. His fashionable friends. State carriage of the King of the Birmans. Mathews
at home.

44

The auctioneer. The Napoleonist. French theatre. A rout. Lady Charlotte B——.
Politics and conversation. English Aristocracy. The foggy sun of England. Extraordinary
testamentary dispositions. Modern knights of St. John. Sion House.
Richmond. Adelphi. Admirable drunkard. Alexander Von Humboldt. King of
Prussia. The Diorama.

58

Journey of business. Gothic and Italian villa. Stanmore Priory. English country
inns. Breakfast. Cashiobury Park. Tasteful magnificence. Drawings by Denon.
Flower-Gardens. Ashridge. Modern Gothic. Woburn Abbey.

64

Warwick Castle. Feudal Grandeur. The baronial hall. Portraits. Joan of Arragon.
Machiavelli. Leamington. Guy’s Cliff. His cave. Gaveston’s cross. Tombs of
Warwick and Leicester. The ruins of Kenilworth. Elizabeth’s balcony. The past.
Birmingham. Mr. Thomasson’s manufactory. Aston Hall. Cromwell. Chester.
The town prison. The rogue’s fÊte.

70

Hawkestone Park. Uncommonly beautiful scenery. The red castle and New Zealander’s
hut. More manufactories. Dangerous employment. The room in which
Shakspeare was born. His grave. Various parks. The Judith of Cigoli. Blenheim.
Vandalism. Pictures. Oxford. Its Gothic aspect. The Sovereigns as Doctors.
The Museum. Tradescant and his bird Dodo. The blue dung-beetle in the character
of a knight. Elizabeth’s riding gaiters, and her lover’s locks of hair. The library.
Manuscripts. Stowe. Overloading. Louis the Eighteenth’s lime trees. Valuables
behind a grating. Decoration for Don Juan. Portrait of Shakspeare. Ninon de
l’Enclos. Balustrade. Christmas pantomimes.

81

Conversational talents of the French. Death of the Duke of York. Adventure at his
house. English mourning. Excerpts from my journal. Lady Morgan’s Salvator
Rosa. ‘What is conscience?’ Cosmorama. Skating on the Serpentine. The
blacking-manufacturer’s ‘sporting match.’ Visit to C—— Hall. Life there.
Lord D——’s recollections of M——. Pictures. The most beautiful woman. The
Park.

97

Brighton. Sunset. Oriental baths. ‘Gourmandise’ and heroism. Count F——.
Ride on the sea-shore. Almack’s ball. English notions of precedence. The
romantic Scot. Sermon and priests. Duties of a clergy. The windmill. Party
at Count F——’s. Highland Costume. Private balls. Wanderings of the garden
Odysseus. Innocent politics.

107

Beggar’s eloquence. Tea-kettle pantomime and jugglers. Dream Superstition. The
fancy ball. Miss F——. Mrs. F——. Remarks on society, ‘Nobodies.’ Pleasures
of a ball. Pictures in the clouds. The French Physician. Amateur Concerts.
Chinese feet. Italian Opera. Hyde Park. English horsemanship.

117

Technicalities of English Society. ‘Bonne chere.’ Captain Parry and his ship. The
Guards’ mess. Play. ‘Le Moyen age.’ Monkeys and Poneys. ‘Le Grand
Seigneur dentiste.’ Lady Hester Stanhope in Syria. Adam still alive. Tippoo
Saib’s shawl. Homeward flight. Lord Mayor’s dinner. Lord H——’s and the
Banker’s houses. Inaccessibleness of Englishmen. Persian Charge d’affaires.
Courtesy of the English princes. Ride in the suburbs.

123

Correspondence. Lord Mayor’s feast. Speeches. Caricatures. Dangers of a fog.
English society. Middle classes. Critical position of the Aristocracy. Freedom
of the press. Newspaper extracts. Dinner at Mr. Canning’s. Concert. Easy
manners. Liston. The Areopagus. Rev. R. Taylor. Almack’s. Rapid travelling.
Prince Schw——. House of Commons; Messrs. Peel, Brougham, Canning. House
of Lords; Duke of Wellington, Lords Goderich, Holland, Lansdowne, Grey. Value
of a ticket for Almack’s. Lady Politicians. Indian Melodrame. Sir Thomas
Lawrence. Portuguese eyes. Prince Polignac. London season. Duchess of
Clarence. Countess L——’s ball. English horsewomen. Breakfast at the Duke of
Devonshire’s. The new Venus. Crush of Carriages. Dinner at the Duke of
Clarence’s. Fitzclarence family. English-French. Dinner at Mr. R——’s. Marchioness
of L——. Marquis of L——. Bishops’ aprons. Concerts of ancient music.
Ambulating advertisements. Mr. R——. Aristocracy in Religion. Dream.

130

Mr. Hope’s collection of pictures and statues. Toilette-necessaries of a Dandy.
Ladies’ conference. Style of invitations. Duke of Sussex. Major Kepple. Ascot
races. S—— Park. The charming fairy and her country-house. Windsor Castle.
Disaster. Greek boy. British cavalry. Absence of military pedantry. Balls.
Disenchantments. Horticultural breakfast. Colossal pines. Tyrolese singers.
Northumberland-house. Sir Gore Ousley. Persian anecdotes. Flower-table.
Children’s balls. Art and nature. Greenwich. Execution. Contrasts. Party
at the Duchess of Kent’s. Marie Louise. King of Rome. Heat. King’s-bench
and Newgate prisons. The unconscious philosopher. Vauxhall. The battle of
Waterloo. Ball at Lady L——’s. Phrenology. Mr. Deville’s character of myself.
Mr. Nash’s library. Dinner at the Portuguese Ambassador’s. St. Giles’s. Exhibition
of English pictures. Pounds and thalers. ‘Excerpts’. Gossip. Visions
of the past. The Tunnel. Astley’s Theatre. Parody of the Freischutz. Bedlam.
The last of the Stuarts. Funerals. Omens. Barclay’s brewery. West India
docks. Amusing charlatanerie. Westminster Abbey by night. Dinner at Sir
L—— M——’s. Practical Bull. English Opera. New organ. Miss Linwood.
Solar Microscope. Panoramas. Death of Canning. ‘Vivian Grey.’ St. James’s
Park. Respect for the public. Propensity to mischief in the people. Exclusiveness
of the great. London in autumn. Newspaper facts.

146

Descent in a diving-bell. Obliging fire. College of Surgeons. The false mermaid.
The sagacious ourang-outang. Extraordinary recovery. The living skeleton.
Fortune. The desperate lover. Salthill. Stoke Park. Dropmore. Windsor
Castle. Eton. St. Leonard’s Hill. Windsor Park. Habits of George the Fourth.
The giraffe. Virginia Water. Lord and Lady H——. Character of Lord Byron.
Windsor Terrace. St. George’s Chapel. Day dreams. English promptitude.
Military men of England. Frogmore. Anecdote of Canning. Egham races.
Dwarf trees. Moonlight walk. Respect for the law.

177

What a park should be. Horses. Lady ——. Hatfield and Burleigh. Doncaster
Races. Pomp in the country. Duke of Devonshire’s equipage. Madame de
Maintenon. Useless talents. York Minster. Library. Walk in the city. Skeleton
of a Roman lady. Clifford’s Tower. The county jail. Thieves’ wardrobe. Ascent.
Town-hall. Armorial bearings of citizens. Madame de Maintenon. Archbishop’s
palace and kitchen-garden. Singular absence of mind. Castle Howard.
Pictures. The three Mary’s. Painted memoirs. English habits. Bad climate.
Equine sagacity. Scarborough. The rock-bridge. Light-house on Flamborough-head.

188

Whitby. What is remarkable in a Duke. The ruin. The Museum. Alum mines.
Lord Mulgrave’s castle and park. Singular accident. Fountain’s Abbey. Studley
Park. The Catacombs at Ripon. Harrowgate. The End of the World. The
old General. Aristocratical influence. Harewood park. Kennel. Horses.
Wooden curtains. Lord Harewood. Leeds. Reform in Parliament. Cloth manufactory.
Templenewsome. Rotherham. Disappointment. Wentworth House.
Portraits. Sheffield. Knives and scissars. Nottingham. Wild beasts. Lord Middleton’s
seat. St. Albans Abbey. Duke of Gloucester’s tomb. Return to London.

200

Excursion to Brighton. Arundel Castle. Petworth House. Portraits. Hotspur’s
sword. Old ‘Whalebone.’ The fortunate duchess. ‘Prognostica.’ Continuation
of Don Juan. The year 2200. ‘Etourderie.’ Rules of behaviour. English
politicians. Charles Kemble’s Falstaff. License of English actors. Young as
Hotspur. German and English stage. Wonders of the age. ‘Flirtation.’ Singular
ball. Macready’s Macbeth. Thoughts on the tragedy of Macbeth. Der
Freischutz. ‘Liaison’ with a mouse. Street mystifiers. Nights in London. Visit
to Woolmers. Ball at Hatfield. Pansanger. Grand Signor. Persian valuables.

212

Billy, the Rat-destroyer. English amusements. The newest Roscius. Fancy. Freewill.
Original sin. Austrian philosophy. Colours of the days. Friday. Don
Miguel. American Anecdote. English ‘tournure.’ Unpleasant Christmas-box.
Portuguese etiquette. Ludicrous incident in the theatre. English flints. Parties in
honour of the infant. Baroness F——. The charming aid-de-camp. Anecdote
told by Sir Walter Scott. B—— Society. Disadvantages of a sandy soil. India
House. Tippoo Saib’s amusements. Shawls. Ride in the Steam-carriage. Ride
in a carriage drawn by kites. Fox-hunt. Clerical fox-hunters. Thoughts on
death. Recommendation of Blotting-paper. The Atlas of life. Bellows. Advantages
of illness. Instruction. Convalesence.

226

The Thelluson will. The Dandy in the back settlements of America. English justice.
A Chancery suit. Dramatic juggler. Fall of the Brunswick theatre. Party at Mr.
Peel’s. ‘Chapeau de Paille.’ Mr. Carr’s collection of pictures. General Lejeune’s
battle-pieces. The courtier. Mina, Arguelles, and Valdez. On the acting and
translating of Shakspeare. Kean, Young, and Kemble, in Othello. Character
of Iago.

241

Aristocracy and liberalism united in one person. FÊte at the Duchess of ——’s.
Wonderful tale of Mr. H——. Toads. The menagerie in Regent’s Park. Marshal
Beresford. Rural dinner in H—— Lodge. Zoological Garden. The patient
witling. Uncomfortable customs. Dinner at H—— Lodge. Sir Walter Scott;
his appearance and conversation. A charming girl. Tailors, butchers, and fishmongers.
Crockford’s. Spring-festival. Rural pleasures. Musical indigestion.
Strawberry-Hill, the seat of Horace Walpole. German customs in England.
Epsom races. SoirÉe at the King’s. Historical portraits. Paintings in watercolour.
The little paradise. The branch from Birnam Wood. Bonneau the Second.
The Empress Josephine’s Fortune-telling book. Introduction to the
Duchess of Sachsen Meiningen. The Pigeon Club. The aquatic theatre. The
Doomed. The new Ninon de l’Enclos. Another dÉjeunÉ champetre. The two
Marshals.

250

A rout ‘par excellence.’ English squeeze. Visit to Cobham. Lord D——’s birthday.
Mr. Child’s speech. Rochester Castle. The most natural camel. The downfall.
The water party. Return to London. The Exhibition of Arts and Manufactures.
The nursery-garden. ‘ApperÇu’ of English fashionable society.

262

Departure from London. Cheltenham. English comfort. Mineral waters. Promenades.
Sources of the Thames. Lackington Hill. The village in the wood.
Ancient Roman villa. Tea-garden. Avenues. Master of the Ceremonies. Field
of Tewksbury. Worcester. Cathedral. King John. The Templar. Prince
Arthur’s tomb. Enjoyments of travelling. Picture in the mist. Vale of Llangollen.
Churchyard, and view from it. Mountain breakfast. Celebrated ladies.
Visit to them. Lofty mountains. Comparison with those of Silesia. The road.
The stone bishop. The indefatigable. Jest and Earnest. German titles. German
placemen. German nobles. Romances. Feudal opinions. English domestic architecture.
Penrhyn Castle. The slate quarry. Operations there. Reflections
of a pious soul of Sandomir, or Sandomich. Conversions. Missions. Extracts from
Berlin journals.

272

Bangor. Welsh driving. Lake of Llanberris. Fish-hunting dogs. Storm. Shelter
in the old castle. Hut, and its inhabitants. Ascent of Snowdon. Mountain poney
and sheep. Veiled summit and my double. Libation. Rocky path. View. Region
of birds of prey. Return on the lake. Caernarvon Castle. Edward’s birth. King’s
stratagem. Origin of the English Motto. Contrast in the ruins. Eagle Tower.
Sea-bath. Billiard table. Weather and eating. The Hebe of Caernarvon. Extracts
from the “Lammszeitung.” Intolerance of Berlin Saints. Church and King sole
guides of faith. Duties of rich and poor contrasted. Promenade round Bangor.
Bath at Bangor. Beaumaris. The castle. Craig y don. Menai Straits. Chain
bridge over the sea.

293

Plague of flies. Project for a Park. Plas Newydd. Cromlechs. Druid’s cottage.
New kaleidescope. Journey into the interior of the mountains. Unworthy views of
Providence. Protestant Jesuits. Destinies of man. Cars. Lake of Idwal. Path
at the foot of the Trivaen. Welsh guide. Wearisome ascent. Rose-coloured light.
Valley of Rocks. The eagle. “The bad pass.” Bog. Capel Cerig. Valley of
Gwynant. Elysium. Dinas Emris. Merlin’s rock. Dangers. Pleasant inn at
Bedgellert. The blind harper and his blind dog. The Devil’s bridge. Tan y
Bwlch. Beautiful Park. Gigantic dam. Tremadoc. Reminiscences of sand, dirt,
and father-land. Evening fancies. Crumbs of philosophy. Possessor of Penrhyn
Castle. Road over Penman Mawr. Conway Castle with fifty-two towers. “Contentment”
villa. The Queen’s closet. Hooke and his forty-one sons. Gothic mania.
Truly respectable Englishman. Fashion-hunting.

303

‘Vie de ChÂteau.’ Cathedral at St. Asaph. Tabernacle. True faith. Denbigh Castle.
Meeting of Harpers. Romantic Valley. Pretty Fanny. Her dairy and aviary.
Paradise of fowls. Ride through romantic country. Short stay at Craig y Don.
Newspaper article. Irish dinner. Happy condition of the middle classes. Opinions
on England. The Isle of Anglesea. Paris mines. Copper smelting. New inventions.
Holyhead. Light-house. Terrific rocks. Sea-birds. Hanging bridge. Stormy
passage to Ireland. First Impression of the country. Dublin. Exhibition of fruits
and flowers. Walk in the city. Sight-seeing. Palace of the Lord Lieutenant, and
modern Gothic chapel. University. My Cicerone. Organ of the Armada. Archimedes’
burning glass. Portraits of Swift and Burke. Battle of Navarino. Phoenix
Park. Characteristics of the people. Lady B——. The meaning of “character”
in England. The Liffy. W—— Park. Charming entrance. “The Three Rocks.”
Beautiful view. Irish peasant women. Wooden Capuchin. The Dandy. Comfortable
arrangements for the English aristocracy. Country visit. First interview
with Lady M——. Unfortunate end of a ride. Further particulars concerning the
Muse of Ireland.

317

Ride on horseback into the county Wicklow. Bray. Student’s equipment. English
piety. Kilruddery. Glen of the Downs. Summer-house. Vale of Durwan. The
giant. The Devil’s Glen. KÜleborn. Rural repast in Rosanna. The tourists.
Avondale, an Eden by moonlight. Avoca Inn. The meeting of the Waters. Castle
Howard. Beautiful portrait of Mary Stuart. Bally Arthur. The ha-ha. My horse
at blind-man’s buff. Shelton Abbey. The negro porter. Loss of my pocket-book.
What is a gentleman? Valley of Glenmalure. Lead mines. Military road. The
sun behind black masses of clouds. The seven churches. Mysterious tower without
an entrance. The black lake of St. Kevin. The giant Fian M’Cumhal. The
enamoured Princess. Her tragical end, and the saint’s excessive rigour. Irish toilet.
Walter Scott and Moore in the mouth of a peasant. Morass and will-o’-the-wisp.
A night upon straw. Hedge of Mist. First peep of sun over the lake and valley
of Luggelaw. Romantic solitude. The statue of rock. P—— Park. Intolerance,
cant, and abuse of the Sunday. Sugar-loaf. Rich country. Repose by the brook.
Lord Byron.

331

Donnybrook fair. The lovers. Powerscourt. The Dargle and The Lover’s Leap.
The waterfall. Galopade, with the guide behind me. Inn at Bray. Sketch of
English manners. Grand Duke of S—— W.——. Advantages of a humble mode
of travelling. Activity of beggars. Kingston. Construction of the harbour. Machinery.
The Spectre ship. Tasteless and appropriate monument in honour of
George the Fourth. Fine road to Dublin. Catholic association. English horse-riders
and admirable clowns. The dance of Polypi.

340

The young parson. Journey with him to the West. Connaught. Singular country.
Visit at Capt. B——’s. Life of a true Irishman. They are not over fastidious.
Divine service in Tuam. Service of the Church of England. Galway race.
Resemblance of the Irish people to savages. The town of Galway. Want of books
there. The race. Accident of a rider. Indifference of the public. The fair African.
Athenry, a bathing place, like a Polish village. King John’s castle. The abbey.
Popular escort. Whisky. Castle Hackett. The fairy queen. She carries off a
lover. Splendid sunset. Definition of ‘Good temper.’ Cong. Irish wit. The
Pigeon-hole. Subterranean river. Meg Merrilies. Illuminated cavern. Enchanted
trout. Lough Corrib, with its three hundred and sixty-five islands. The monastery.
Irish mode of burial. Hearty kindness of the old captain.

345

‘Hors d’oeuvre.’ German Character. Adventure with a gipsy. How we acquire a
soul. State of the Irish peasantry. Stupid rage of an Orangeman. Beautiful
park and disposition of water. Picture gallery at M—— B——. St. Peter with a scarlet
wig, by Rubens. Winter landscape, by Ruisdael. Magnificent Asiatic Jew, by
Rembrandt. Irish hunters. Departure by the Postman’s cart. The obliging Irishman.
Desert country. Poverty and light-heartedness of the people. Sure revelation.
“The cross bones.” The Punch-bowl. Lord Gort’s park. Desire of my
horse to stay there. Irish posting. Its characteristics.

357

Limerick. Antique character of that city. Catholics and Protestants. Deputation,
and offer of the Order of the Liberator. O’Connell’s cousin. Cathedral. I am
taken for a son of Napoleon. I substitute my valet and make my retreat. Conversation
in the stage. The Shannon. Its magnificent size. New sort of industry of a
beggar in Lisdowel. Twelve rainbows in a day. Killarney. Voyage on the lake in
a storm. The dandy and the manufacturer. Some danger of drowning. Inisfallen
island. O’Donaghue’s white horse. His history and apparition. The old boat,
man and his adventure. Journal des Modes of the infernal regions. Mucruss Abbey.
The large yew-tree. Influence of the Catholic priests. O’Sullivan’s waterfall. Young
Sontag. The wager. Ross Castle. Two Englishmen ‘de trop’. Bad taste of quizzing.
The Knight of the Gap. The “madman’s rock.” Brandon Castle. A bugleman.
The eagle’s nest. Coleman’s leap. The dinner. Fresh salmon boiled on
arbutus sticks. Voyage back. Melancholy thoughts. Christening with whisky. Julia
Island. Journey to Kenmare. Shillelah battle. Ride to Glengariff by night. Extraordinary
road. The intelligent poney. Beautiful bay of Glengariff. Colonel
W——’s park a model. Family of the possessor. Lord B——’s hunting seat. Bad
weather. Rocks, storm and apparition of ——.

367

Kenmare. Irish messenger. Road to Derrinane. Bridge of the black water. Chaos.
Terrific coast. Perplexities. Aid from a smuggler. Mountain pass at night.
Derrinane Abbey. O’Connell the great Agitator; Father L’Estrange his confessor.
O’Connell as chieftain giving laws to his subjects. His intolerance in matters of
religion. Departure from Derrinane. Danish forts. Leave-taking. Irish modes of
conveyance. Amiable character of the lower Irish. Example of it. Sorrows of
Werther. Opinion of it. Faust. The Innkeeper’s daughter at Kenmare. Hungry
Hill and its majestic waterfall. O’Rourke’s eagle. The modern Ganymede. Seals
under my window. Their love for music. English family worship. Theological
discussion on the deluge, the day of judgment, and the Apocalypse. Extraordinary
beauties and advantages of this spot.

380

Wild honeycomb. Egyptian lotus. Visit to an eagle’s nest; their romantic dwelling,
and wonderful instinct. The wild huntsman of the South of Ireland. The
caves of the Sugar Loaf. Track of the fairy queen’s carriage wheels. Dangerous
hunting in these mountains. The fogs, bogs, and wild bulls. Manner of taming
one.

393

Idolatry of Sunday in England. Wonderful conversion of a Protestant to Catholicism.
Riding in a car. The Whiteboys. Macroom. The naÏve mamma and the
spoiled child in the gingle. The strong king of the Danes. Cork. Voyage to
Cove: beautiful entrance from the sea. Folko’s sea castle. Monkstown. Remarkable
appearance of two perfect rainbows at once. The amphitheatre of
the town of Cove. Disappointed expectation of fish. Illuminated night-scene.
The stars. Departure in the Mail. Mitchelstown and Castle. Materials for novels.
Lord K——. Extraordinary weather for Ireland. The soldier of O’Connell’s
Militia. The Galtees. Cahir. Another of King John’s castles. Lord Glengall’s
beautiful park. The Prince’s equipage at Cashel. Force of habit. Secret of all
educations. Club dinner.

395

The rock of Cashel. One of the most curious ruins in Ireland. The Devil’s Bite.
Old Saxon architecture. Bell of the Inquisition. The statue of St. Patrick, and
throne at Scone. Hore and Athassil abbeys. Lord L——. Condition of the
Catholics in Tipperary. Church of Ireland. Laughable article in the newspaper
concerning myself. My speech.

404

The swan. Holy Cross and its monuments. Irish Catholic clergy. Dinner with
eighteen clergymen. Conversation at it. Comparison of the Wendish and the
Irish. List of the Catholic and Protestant parishes in Cashel. Curious details
and remarks upon them. Well-meant exorcism. Irish breakfast. Breakneck hunt.
The wandering bog. Feats of horses. Country gentleman’s life. The Castle in
the air. Potheen enthusiasm. Irish gentry. Lord H——.

408

The brothers. Animal life. Devils. The pretty hostess. The piper. The robbers.
The lawyer cheated. The murder of Baker. The motionless cock. Fitzpatrick
and his bag-pipe.

415

Killough Hill. The fairy garden. Romantic sentry-box. Return to Dublin. Madame
de Sevigne. Lord Byron’s tempest. Dinner with the Lord Lieutenant.
The Marquis of Anglesea. Catholic worship. Invisible music. St. Christopher.
Comparison of the Catholic and Protestant divine service. Allegory. Journal
of a London life. Difference between English and German modes of thinking.
Remarks on English Women. Malahide. Furniture seven hundred years old.
Duchess of Portsmouth. Charles the First at the court of Spain. Howth Castle.
Ducrow’s living statues.

420

Evening at Lady M——’s. Her nieces. Curious conversation. More theology.
The nightingales. All the corn of Europe. National scene. Domestic pictures.
The authoress’s boudoir. The miniature Napoleon. The Catholic Association.
Shiel, Lawless, and others. Artificial resolution. Ride in the mountains. Sentimentality
of a dandy.

427

B—— H—— on modern piety. O’Connell in a long-tailed wig. The Don Quixote
and the Dandy of the Association. Acting charades at Lady M——’s. ‘Love me
love my dog.’ Miss O’Neil. Her acting.

436

Dead-letter office. £3000 incognito. The doctor. New surgical instrument. The
bank. Bank-note metal. Gymnastics. Parlour philosophy. Paradoxes.

441

Favour of Neptune. The dream. Voyage across the channel. The young heir.
Night in the mail. Shrewsbury. The tread-mill. Yellow criminals. Church.
Curious old houses. Street curiosity. The little scholar. Ross. The river Wye.
Goderich Castle. Varied prospects. Three counties at once. Childhood of
Henry the Fifth. Grotesque rocks. Unfortunate tourist. The Druid’s Head.
Monmouth. Birth-place of Henry the Fifth. A poultry-yard. The bookseller
and his family. Theft. Kind, simple-hearted people. Tintern abbey. The ivy
avenue. The Wind Cliff. Sublime view. Chepstow Castle. Cromwell and
Henry the Eighth improvers of the picturesque. Discovery. Penitence.

451

Chepstow. Marten the Regicide. The girl’s explanation. Taxes imposed by English
lords and gentlemen on travellers. The possessor of Piercefield. Crossing the
Bristol Channel. Men and horses pÈle mÈle. Recapitulation. Natural pictures.
The most beautiful building. Bristol. The feudal churches. Disinterested piety
of English clergymen. The mayor’s equipage. Cook’s Folly. Lord de Clifford’s
park. Russian fleet. The model of a village. Clifton. The black and white
house. Sensibility of surgeons. Bath. The king of Bath. The Abbey church.
Singular decoration. King James the Second’s heroic feat. The eccentric Beckford.
The tower. Strange cortege. The visit over the wall. Gothic architecture.
Christmas-eve market. Walks by day and night. The conflagration.

460

The widow. Love of the English for horrors. More agreeable travelling companion.
Examinations, and learned examiners. Stonehenge. Sinister meeting and accident.
Salisbury Cathedral. Monuments. The spire. Frightful ascent. The
hawk on the cross, and the bishop’s pigeons. His Lordship’s functions. Pious
wish for my Country. Mirror of the past and future. Wilton castle. The Chatelaine
antiques. Pictures. Temple built by Holbein. Talent and taste of English
ladies. Entrance by stratagem. Langford park. Fine pictures. Egmont. Alba.
Orange. Emperor Rudolph’s throne. Boxing-match, the betting coachman.
Modern English aristocratic morality. March of intellect. Military school.
Fox-chace. National duty. The new year. London. Canterbury cathedral.
The Black Prince. Splendour of colouring. The archbishop. The damaged
boiler. Dover fortress. Short passage. The air of France. The jetty. English
children. Unequal contest between a French bonne and a resolute little English
girl. The chief and father of dandies. Anecdotes.

469

French diligence. The conducteur. An old soldier of Napoleon’s garde. German
Plinzen. La ‘mechanique.’ Value of freedom. Paris. Revision of the old acquaintance.
Bad new one. Theatre de Madame Leontine Fay. Virtuous Uncle
Martin. ‘La charte pour les cafes.’ Rosini the tamer of wild beasts. Cheapness
of Paris. Burlesque exhibition of the death of Prince Poniatowski. Praiseworthy
‘ensemble’ of French acting. Gleanings in the Louvre. The sphinx out of place.
The Mephistophiles Waltz. Heaven and Hell.

479

Ascetic walk. Anecdotes of the Buonaparte family. Spanish courtesy. Theatre
FranÇais. Omnibus. Thoughts in a Dame Blanche. Il Diavolo. Singers. AgrÉmens
of Paris. La Morne. Polar bear. Desaix’s monument. Disappointed hope.
The Amas. Departure.

490