Two thousand years after volcanic eruptions subsided, plants and animals still struggle to gain toeholds on this unforgiving lava field. Much of the world’s vegetation could not survive here at all. Environmental stresses created by scant soil and minimal moisture are compounded by highly porous cinders that are incapable of holding water near the ground surface where plants and other organisms can make ready use of it. Scarce at best—total average precipitation is between 15 to 20 inches per year—rainwater and snowmelt quickly slip down out of reach of the plants growing on cinder cones. Summer’s hot, dry winds rob moisture from all living things exposed to them. Whisking across leaves and needles the winds carry away moisture precious to plant tissues. On the side of a cinder cone, summer day temperatures at ground level can be more than 150°F. The secret to survival here is adaptation. Most life forms cope by strategies of either resisting or evading the extremes of this semi-arid climate. To resist being robbed of moisture by winds and heat, a plant may feature very small leaves that minimize moisture loss. To evade heat, wind, and aridity, another plant may grow inside a crevice that provides life-giving shade and collects precious moisture and soil particles. Another plant may spend about 95 percent of the year dormant. It may rush through the germination, sprouting, leafing out, blooming, and fruiting stages and return to the dormancy of its seed stage in just two weeks. The dwarf buckwheat has adapted to life on porous cinders by evolving a root system that may spread out for up to 3 feet to support its aboveground part, which is a mere 4 inches high. This buckwheat only looks like a dwarf because you can not see its roots. (continued on page 40) Plants Adapt to a Volcanic Landscape{uncaptioned}
Plant Microhabitats{uncaptioned}
Ecological conditions at Craters of the Moon are generally so harsh that slight changes can make the difference for the survival of a plant or other organism. Life thrives in many rock crevices that are surrounded by barren exposed lava rock of the same physical composition. These microhabitats provide the critical shade and increased soil and moisture content required for plant survival. Over the years, particles of soil will naturally collect in rock crevices, which also have the effect of funneling precipitation into their depths. Their shade further protects these pockets of soil and water from wind erosion, excessive heat, and evaporation and leaching by direct sunlight. Limber pines are the tree pioneers of the lava terrain. Their seedlings often find suitable conditions for germination in rock crevices long before surrounding landscapes support tree growth. Most common of all the park’s trees, limber pine is named for its flexible branches. Many park animals depend on this tree in some fashion for their livelihoods. Limber pine cones stay green and resinous through their first year of development and then turn brown and woody as their seeds mature in the second year. Cones grow to about 4 inches long. At Craters of the Moon, crevices are of such importance to plants that botanists differentiate between narrow, shallow, and deep crevices when studying this phenomenon. Narrow crevices will support dwarf goldenweed or hairy goldaster. Shallow crevices support scabland penstemon, fernleaf fleabane, and gland cinquefoil. Deep crevices give rise to syringa, ferns, bush rockspirea, tansybush, Lewis mockorange, and even the limber pine tree. Complete soil cover and then vegetative cover can develop on these lava flows only after crevices have first become filled with soil. Plants exploit other means of protection to survive in this harsh environment. Shaded and wind-sheltered, the northern side of a cinder cone can support grass, shrubs, and limber pine trees while the cone’s southern face supports only scattered herbs. Most cinder cones in the park show distinct differences of plant cover between their northern and southern exposures. Northern exposures are cooler and more moist than southern exposures, which receive far more direct sunlight. In addition, here at Craters of the Moon, the prevailing southwesterly winds compound the ability of the dry heat to rob porous cinder cone surfaces and their living organisms of precious moisture. The build-up of successive lava flows has so raised the landscape that it now intercepts wind currents that operate higher above surrounding plains. Limber pine trees find footholds on the shaded and sheltered northern exposures of cinder cones. Bitterbrush and rabbitbrush shrubs that can barely survive on the lower skirts of a cinder cone’s southern side may grow two-thirds of the way up its protected northern face. For many species of plants the limits of habitability on this volcanic landscape are narrowly defined. Very small variations in their situations can determine success or failure. Travelers often ask park rangers whether or not some of the park’s plants were planted by people. The plants in question are dwarf buckwheats and grow in cinder gardens. It is their incredibly even spacing that creates an orderliness that is easy to mistake for human design. The regular spacing comes about because of the competition for moisture, however. The root systems of these plants exploit the available water from an area of ground surface much larger than the spread of their foliage. In this way, mature plants can fend off competition by using the moisture that would be required for a potentially encroaching plant to become established. The effect is an even spacing that makes it appear, indeed, as though someone had set out the plants on measured centers. Craters of the Moon abounds with these surprising plant microhabitats that delight explorers on foot. The bleak lava flows separate these emerging pockets of new life, isolating them like islands or oases within their barren volcanic surroundings. Scientists have studied Carey Kipuka, an island of plantlife in the most southern part of the park, to find out what changes have occurred in the biologic community. Kipuka is a Hawaiian name given to an area of older land that is surrounded by younger lava flows. Recent lava flows did not overrun Carey Kipuka, so its plant cover is unaltered. Shortage of water protected it from livestock grazing that might have changed its character. Its vegetation is a benchmark for comparing plant cover changes on similar sites throughout southern Idaho. For the National Park Service and other managers of wildlands, kipukas—representing isolated and pristine plant habitat unchanged by human influence—provide the best answer that we have to the important question, “What is natural?” Armed with a satisfactory answer to that question, it is possible to manage the land ecologically. Park managers can seek to restore natural systems and to allow them to be as self-regulating as possible. It is ironic that Craters of the Moon, a volcanic landscape subjected to profound change, should also protect this informative glimpse of what remains unchanged. From the park’s mazes of jumbled rock, ground squirrels fashion homes with many entrances and exits. Opportunistic feeders on vegetable matter, these engaging rodents fall prey to hawks and owls from above and small predatory mammals on the ground. They therefore serve as an important transfer point between plant and animal layers of the park’s food energy scheme. In the 1920s, members of the Limbert Expedition, described on pages (continued on page 46) Wildflowers
Mule Deer{uncaptioned}
The Northern Shoshone regularly passed through the Craters of the Moon area on their annual summer migration from the Snake River to the Camas Prairie, west of the park. They took this journey to get out of the hot desert and into the cooler mountains. There they could gather root crops and hunt marmots, jackrabbits, porcupines, and ground squirrels. As they passed through today’s park, they left behind arrowheads, choppers, and scrapers and built stone circles that may have been used for ceremonial purposes. These artifacts and structures are evidence the Indians were temporary visitors to this vast volcanic landscape. |