NEW METHOD OF HALTERING A VICIOUS OR WILD COLT.NEW METHOD OF HALTERING A VICIOUS OR WILD COLT. Having directed my attention for many years to compiling a system of educating the horse, and traveling over twenty-five States of the Union, together with nearly all the cities and towns in the Provinces of Ontario and Quebec, during the past eight years, it is highly probable that few, if any, men are better prepared to impart instruction or to give direction with regard to the management of the horse than myself. Therefore, without being egotistic, or overrating my ability, I can but say that, if the reader will adopt the various ideas found in my work relating to the colt alone, he will have gained knowledge sufficient to more than repay him for the amount paid for the book. I deem it advisable to give special directions to those who raise colts, not only as to their Take a pole about ten feet long; drive a nail near the end, then drive another about fifteen inches from it; now take a rope halter, and hang the part that goes on the top of the head on these nails; then enlarge the nose-piece, by means of the slip-noose, sufficiently to allow it to slip on easily, observing to hold the halter stale in your hands with the pole; approach your colt with great care, and allow him to smell of the halter, and, in a few minutes, he will yield to your advances, and allow you to place the halter on him without much difficulty. Make the shank or stale of the halter about three times the ordinary length, for, as soon as he finds himself caught, he will use his best exertions to get away from you. TO EDUCATE THE HORSE TO THE WORDS “COME HERE.”TO EDUCATE THE HORSE TO THE WORDS “COME HERE.” Place a Camanche bridle on the horse, made as follows: take a small cord about sixteen feet long, tie the end around the neck firmly, so that it cannot slip; then double your cord, placing it under the neck, from, the shoulder to the mouth; step back at the side of your horse, and say “Come here;” at the same time give him a sharp jerk, and he will swing around to you; when he comes, caress him with your hand on the shoulder; now repeat the same on opposite side, remembering to caress each time; do this four or five times, and you will find that your horse will obey and fully understand the words “come here.” Always speak the words with a distinct and commanding tone of voice. I desire that the reader may understand that obedience in the horse is accomplished by pain; so, when you inflict pain, accompanied by a word, the horse is made to understand that the words Persons have practiced the foregoing idea and succeeded in accomplishing their purpose and have, no doubt, been highly gratified that their horse was so intelligent, yielding a quiet obedience to their efforts in a very short time; now had the owner known that a foundation for a complete education was properly laid, how easily could he have built a superstructure thereon that would have been permanent and beneficial during the life of the animal. Men are often conceited and think that because they have experienced no difficulty in the past in breaking and handling their horses, therefore all will be sunshine in the future. I would advise a careful perusal of my work, and, by so doing, those of the character above described will have their conceit supplanted as they gain the knowledge of a practical system of properly educating the horse. HOW TO LAY A HORSE DOWN.HOW TO LAY A HORSE DOWN. Place a rope or rein around the horse’s body, forming a surcingle; pass the other end under the tail and bring it back, tying it to the part around the body, thus forming a surcingle and crooper; also put a ring, say an inch in diameter, in the surcingle on the back; then strap up the nigh fore-leg as follows: take a quarter-strap, pass it two or three times around below the fetlock, then through the keeper; bring the leg up and buckle close to the belly; place around the neck a quarter-inch strong rope, loosely, fixing the knot so it will not slip; bring the end down the near side of the head, through the mouth, and back on the off-side through the ring in the surcingle; now take a position on the nigh-side of the horse, commencing to pull gently, allowing him to struggle a short time, after which he will lie down quite easily, without sustaining any injury. By adhering strictly to the instructions given, every person will readily see, that the object in laying the horse down is to give him to understand that you are master; and, after repeating this two or three times, he will be perfectly satisfied of the fact. While down, place a small pole between his legs, moving it about; if he shows fear or resists, give him a sharp pull on the cord in his mouth by way of correction. In other words, punish him for doing wrong, and caress him for doing right, thus making him understand the difference between right and wrong. HOW TO GET A HORSE UP THAT THROWS HIMSELF.HOW TO GET A HORSE UP THAT THROWS HIMSELF. Animals are often sulky, and quickly acquire the habit of lying down. Balky horses, when urged to go, will lie down and refuse to get up, and an ox will sometimes lie down in the furrow when before the plough. When the habit is thoroughly settled, it becomes very annoying to the owner or driver, who often resorts to severe means, but fails to accomplish the end desired; therefore, to prevent violence and ill-treatment, I give the easy and simple remedy subjoined, which, when adopted, will be found to be practical and never-failing: Raise the animal’s head up, as illustrated in the foregoing plate, and pour into his nostril a small quantity of water, not to exceed a pint, from a pitcher or cup, and you will be amused by the pleasing result: the animal will rise to his feet as quickly as it is possible for him to do so; Simple as is this expedient, it is yet unfailing in its efficacy; and that which most commends it to the acceptance of kind-hearted men is the absence of all cruelty in its application. No pain is caused, but the unusual sensation, together with the necessity for air on the part of the horse, banishes his former feeling of sulkiness or anger and the yields to the almost irresistible impulse to spring to his feet and free his nostrils of the water. If any one who has never applied this remedy should doubt its power, he only needs to try the experiment in a mild way on himself, when he will realize its power upon the horse. I believe it would be impossible to devise another method so free from pain, so harmless to the horse, and yet so thoroughly efficacious as is the one we have here given. TO EDUCATE A COLT NOT TO BE AFRAID OF HIS HEELS.TO EDUCATE A COLT NOT TO BE AFRAID OF HIS HEELS. Too much importance cannot be attached to the manner of educating a horse’s heels, as it is in that point his greatest means of defense and resistance lies, and most men make the mistake of breaking one end of the horse, while they allow his hind parts to go uneducated. The instructions I am about to give will, if properly followed, insure success. After laying your colt down, commence to handle his hind parts and heels, being careful to hold the cord firmly in your left hand, so that, if he attempts to get up, you can control him; then strike him gently with a stick, and, if he should show fear, which he naturally will, punish him in the mouth; then place the stick between his legs and commence moving it around, and, if he makes no resistance, remember to caress him; almost as much is accomplished by caressing as by punishing. The above instruction is equally applicable to a kicking horse, but in his education he will require more lessons before the habit will be entirely removed; still, kindness and a little patience will soon accomplish all you desire. Men in general exercise too little patience in the training of their colts, and they frequently expect to accomplish more in a short space of time than can possibly be performed. Yet the time really required, when measured by days, is so short as to be really surprising. Let us suppose that in training a colt one were to spend two hours a day for ten days, which is the longest time that could possibly be needed; compute the time at ten hours to the day, and the whole amounts to but two days, at the end of which he would have a well-educated animal. I doubt if a farmer or horse-raiser could employ his time more profitably in any other way than in thoroughly educating his colts, as he thus enhances their value, for there is no sensible man who would not give ten dollars more for a properly educated animal than for one improperly trained. TO EDUCATE A COLT TO DRIVE BEFORE BEING HARNESSED.TO EDUCATE A COLT TO DRIVE BEFORE BEING HARNESSED. Place on him the Bonaparte bridle, as shown in engraving, with your cord in the left hand and whip in the right; the cord referred to should be about eighteen feet long; now drive him around a circle to the right about fifteen minutes; then drive him to the left about the same time. You have now educated your colt to drive, and may with safety put on your harness, observing to put the reins through the shaft tugs at his side; then commence driving him carefully for some fifteen minutes on a walk, turning him to the right and left as before directed. Do not use the whip more than sufficient to give him a knowledge of its use. Never drive a colt without blinders. It is better to first hitch him to a sulky or a cart, and do not put on breechings, but allow the cross-bar frequently to come against his heels, so that he may never be afraid, or learn to kick. Never forget, when your colt is obedient, to stop him, and walk up to and caress him. I am unwilling to pass on to another illustration without more fully impressing on the minds of those who raise or break colts the necessity of kind and careful usage in educating their animals. Never approach your colt quickly. Never, pull the halter or bridle off quickly. Always handle the colt’s ears with great care. Never punish him on the body with anything but a whip, and with it as seldom as possible, as many colts become sulky and show signs of balking when severely whipped. It is better that you should give your colt two or three lessons each day, as heretofore directed, at intervals of say two hours apart: by this means you do not overtax his brain, nor cause him to get weary. In this, as in many other cases, the wisest course is to “make haste slowly.” HOW TO EDUCATE A COLT TO MOVE HIS BODY WHEN HE MOVES HIS HEAD.TO EDUCATE A COLT TO MOVE HIS BODY WHEN HE MOVES HIS HEAD. Place on your bridle, then your harness; carry your reins through the shaft tugs; take your position behind the horse (see engraving); now commence to drive, turning him round frequently, first to the right, then to the left, and he will quickly understand to move his body when he moves his head. By this means you are educating to the shafts, and educating not to be afraid of his heels, thus thoroughly breaking your horse at both sides and both ends. After your colt has been driven two or three times, as above described, educate him to obey the word “whoa:” let him walk along smartly, then speak plain, with audible voice, and say “whoa;” at the same time pull on the reins with some force; when he stops, caress him; repeat this a few times, and, in the short space of fifteen minutes, you will have taught him the use of the word. Now your horse is educated to drive and stop at the word of command. The next thing in order is to teach him to back. To accomplish this, grasp your reins firmly, and with a determined effort; speak firmly, making use of the word “back,” at the same time pulling with all your might; if he obeys the first time, step up and caress him; if not, increase the power by inviting one or more of your friends to assist on the reins, being fully determined to accomplish your purpose. As soon as he obeys, don’t fail to caress him, and by this process you will educate your horse to the word, which he will never forget. Your colt being educated, you may now hitch him up to a vehicle, observing to drive him very slow, only on a walk, and after thus driving him a few times, you can with certainty say that you have a thoroughly educated horse, whose value will be greatly increased, compared with the old or any other system of breaking the colt. Always observing to drive your colt with blinders, only using the whip enough to let him know the use of it. Be kind to your animal, never using harsh means, and he will reward your kindness by implicit obedience. IMPROVED METHOD OF BITTING A COLT.IMPROVED METHOD OF BITTING A COLT. Use the Bonaparte bridle, placing a loop on the lower jaw; carry the cord back on the neck, bringing the end of the cord down through the loop on the jaw; then draw the horse’s head up in an easy and graceful position, and tie a bow-knot. Should the horse attempt to rear and go over backwards, give a little pull to untie the cord, and the horse is saved from any accident. The object aimed at in bitting a horse is to give an easy position, with a high and graceful carriage of the head, and, in our efforts to do this, we must be careful not to give him a dead bearing on the bit, or make him what is usually known as a “lugger.” All the bitting rings which we have examined, and especially those of English make, are objectionable, as having a tendency to produce this result. The rig which we here give you is entirely free from this objection, and is better calculated to produce the desired result of ease and gracefulness than any ever before It is not possible for a horse with our rig to become a “lugger.” This bit never bears upon the jaw-bone with more than a light pressure, and when he attempts to rest his head upon the bit, the pressure on the teeth causes him to desist and elevate his head. He soon dreads to rest upon the bit, and of his own free will, without the force of the rein, carries it up with freedom and ease. EDUCATING THE COLT TO RIDEEDUCATING THE COLT TO RIDE. First put on the Bonaparte bridle, make a double half-hitch, bringing it over the head, back of his ears, and, carrying it down to the mouth, place it under the upper lip, taking the end of the cord in your right hand, placing it on the horse’s rump; then place your left hand in the mane; now spring partly on and off, as seen in the plate on preceding page. Do this several times; if he moves, punish him in the mouth, by means of the cord; if he does not move, when you get off caress him; then go to the opposite side, repeating the same several times, after which you may safely mount your horse, but be particular not to remain on his back too long at a time, as the strength of the animal is not yet sufficiently developed to bear a protracted strain. Like the young of all animals, the colt has a great deal of energy and spirit, but lacks the stamina to endure long-continued exertion, nor can it be imposed on them without certain injury. Men do not act wisely by practicing the old system of riding colts, viz., by mounting on the back with reins and whip in hand, and, so soon as the colt jumps about or rears, applying the whip or heels; for the reason that the animal does not know what you require of him, but believes you design some injury, and therefore resists your efforts to ride him. No wonder that he repeatedly throws his rider and treats him as an intruder. He cannot be less terrified than a man would be if a wild animal were to mount on his back. In order to secure success in educating his colt to ride let the reader adopt the foregoing instructions, and he will not have cause for regret, but will find that he has gained more than the single point of riding, as he has taught his colt that he does not intend to harm him, and that his duty is to yield a cheerful obedience to his owner’s commands. INSTRUCTIONS TO RIDE THE COLT.INSTRUCTIONS TO RIDE THE COLT. Take a small cord, ten to twelve feet long, divide it in the center; then place the center back of the ears, cross it in the mouth, then bring both ends along the neck to the withers, and tie a knot, thus forming a powerful bridle, sufficient to ride the most vicious animal. Sacred history contains the declaration that there is “the bridle for the horse, the whip for the ass, and the rod for the fool’s back,” and, while writing my book, I have often thought of the first portion of that quotation. The power of the bridle in controlling the horse is really wonderful, and the new forms of powerful bridles given in this work enable the most timid rider to secure the mastery of the most powerful animal. The one described above is excellent, and can never fail to give satisfaction when it is used as directed. There is no exercise so invigorating and scarcely any so delightful as the manly one of riding the horse, yet three-quarters of the pleasure of I throw out these suggestions at this point, for I am now dealing with the early education of the colt; later in the book I shall have to speak more of faults to be corrected, and it is my wish to impress on my reader the great importance of the kind of education which the colt receives at his hands. TO HALTER-BREAK A COLT, AND HITCH IN THE STABLE.TO HALTER-BREAK AND HITCH A COLT IN THE STALL. Place the center of a sixteen-foot cord under the horse’s tail, and bring it over and cross it on the back; then tie it firmly in front of the breast (as seen by reference to illustration on preceding page); carry the halter-strap through the manger, and bring it back under the mouth; then tie the end of the strap to the cord in front of the breast. The colt is now tied by the head and tail. While he yields quietly to the confinement, he is comfortable and easy, but the moment he begins to resist he punishes himself; this he soon learns, and in a little time ceases the efforts which he finds to be productive of pain. He will always remember the lesson, and give no further trouble. It may seem a trifling thing to have gained the result described above; yet, as the earth is made up of grains of sand, so the thorough education of the horse is the result of attention Too much care and attention cannot be bestowed on the colt while you are giving him lesson after lesson, as he is susceptible of impressions that will take weeks to overcome, provided you should through neglect or carelessness omit to practice the instructions laid down. Do not suppose that any of the directions given in this book are unimportant. They are, one and all, the result of long experience in the management and education of the horse, and each one, in its place and relation to the general system, is as necessary, though perhaps not as important, as any other. To be certain of reaching the best results of the system, the reader must not pass over any of our directions as unimportant or unnecessary, but accept each as a part of the system which it has required years of time and thought to bring to its present state of perfection. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK AT YOU WHEN ENTERING THE STALL.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK AT YOU WHEN ENTERING THE STALL. Place on the horse the Bonaparte bridle; then drive a staple at the side of the stall, near the manger, three or four feet from the floor; then attach another staple at the entrance of the stall, the same distance from the floor; now pass the cord through both staples and tie it. When you enter the stall, pull sharply on the rope; at the same time use the words “go over.” The head of the horse will be drawn towards you, and his heels to the opposite side. Thus you avoid all danger, and will very soon educate your horse to abandon this bad habit. Vicious and annoying habits in horses often owe their origin to bad management by their owner or groom. Allow me to instance a few examples: A man walks into the stable and approaches his horse in the stall, and, if he should move about quickly, the person springs back from him, evidently showing his fear, which TO EDUCATE A HORSE THAT KICKS OR PAWS IN THE STALL.TO EDUCATE A HORSE THAT KICKS OR PAWS IN THE STALL. First make the Bonaparte bridle, as before directed; carry the cord through a surcingle, attached around the body, back to a ring in front of the hind-leg, to which are attached two straps, one above and one below the gambol joint of the leg he has the habit of kicking with; thus, when he kicks, he is punished in the act, and soon gives up the habit. Pawing—Continue the cord forward to a ring attached to two small straps above and below the knee-joint, as seen on engraving, observing, as above directed, to attach the appliance to the leg he paws with, reversing the straps when required, which will give a horse the knowledge that when he paws he punishes himself, and the reader will see, by this treatment, the habit speedily broken up. The habit of kicking in the stall is one that is not only disagreeable to the owner of the horse addicted to it, but is often destructive and costly, The habit of pawing in the stall, though not so vicious in its nature as that of kicking, is yet sufficiently troublesome and unpleasant to deserve a speedy correction, and the owner of a horse addicted to even the last-named fault will be more than compensated for the slight trouble caused in its removal. It may seem needless to repeat what has before been said, in substance, that the seemingly small faults of a horse are the ones which most frequently lessen his value and impair his usefulness, and that the removal of any one, however trifling, adds a money value to the horse more than sufficient to compensate for the time and trouble expended. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO GET CAST IN THE STALL.TO PREVENT A HORSE GETTING CAST IN THE STALL. Drive a staple in the ceiling over the manger at the side of the stall, then another in the ceiling in the center of the stall over the horse’s head; pass a small cord through the staple at the side of the stall; tie a horseshoe, or the weight of a horseshoe, so that the cord will not draw through the staple; then put the cord through the staple in the center of the stall, bring it down within two and a half feet of the floor, and cut it off, attaching a snap to the end; place a ring in the halter at the top of the head, in the center, as seen in engraving. Now, when his head raises up, the weight comes down; when his mouth is on the floor he can lie down with ease, but he cannot get the top of his head to the floor; and, if he cannot get the top of his head to the floor, he cannot roll; and, if he cannot roll, he cannot get cast. This remedy is as simple as it is certain, and is always perfectly safe. The habit of rolling in the stable is one often attended with fatal results, in addition to the anxiety experienced by the owner of the horse. Various means are resorted to in order to prevent the animal getting cast, and most of them are wide of the mark; and, in order to acquaint the reader with the variety of ways practiced, so that he may contrast the difference between others and mine, I have thought proper to write more explicitly on the subject. A favorite idea with many is to tie the halter so short that the animal cannot get his mouth near the floor; this renders the horse uncomfortable, as he cannot lie down when he desires. Another is, hitching the halter-stale at the ceiling directly over the head of the animal, and allowing cord enough that he may get his mouth on the floor; this, too, is attended with bad results, for when he raises his head up there is sufficient slack in the rope so as to permit his getting his foot over the rope and become so entangled as to render his position dangerous. TO EDUCATE A COLT TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON.TO EDUCATE A COLT TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON. First put on the colt a common halter without a leader, then place a small cord about eighteen feet long, divided in the center, under the tail, cross it on the back, then bring the ends through between the under-jaw of the horse and the nose-piece of the halter, and tie it to the hind end of the wagon. This idea will be satisfactory, and your colt will soon be educated to lead without trouble to his owner. The expedient is a very simple one, yet will invariably prove successful, because the colt will find his own comfort to be promoted by doing as you wish; and this is one of the principles which underlie my whole system of training—to make the horse desire to do that which his owner wishes. Under this head I am satisfied that I cannot be too particular in giving instructions, as persons often grow merry when witnessing the results produced from ideas that are so different TO EDUCATE A HORSE THAT IS BAD TO CATCH.TO EDUCATE A HORSE THAT IS BAD TO CATCH. Horses acquire this habit mainly from improperly turning them out; and, to illustrate, I will give the reader an example. First, the man or boy takes his horse to the bars or fence of the field, and lets only a portion of either down; he now takes off the bridle or halter, and, in order to make the horse jump over, hits him on the rump and shouts at him; thus the animal is made to fear the approach of man when loose; so that, with this kind of training, it soon becomes difficult to catch, and requires education in order to counteract this bad habit. Directions: Put on the Bonaparte bridle, and tie a knot at the mouth, so as to prevent it from slipping down to his teeth, when he might sever the cord; then carry it up to his mane over the shoulder; tie the mane together with a string; then pass the cord through the loop thus made When it is remembered how much time is often lost in catching a horse in the field, it will be seen that, in money value, this simple point of horse education will more than repay the cost of this book to the owner of a horse that has heretofore been bad to catch; and the saving of temper as well as time will make the improvement in his habits doubly valuable. Both the man and the horse are made better by it. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO REAR UNDER THE SADDLE OR BEFORE A CARRIAGE.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO REAR UNDER THE SADDLE OR BEFORE A CARRIAGE. Attach a small cord tightly around the swell of the body, tied with a loop-knot, and carry it back into the carriage. By doing this you prevent your horse from rearing, inasmuch as he is unable to expand his body, and, without doing so, it is impossible for him to rear. Simple as is this method, the reader, if he should have occasion to practice it, will find the idea of great value, as it will never fail to prove effectual in removing this, to say the least, unpleasant and often dangerous habit. It is possible that the habit might be broken up in other ways, but there are none so harmless and easy of application as is the one I have described. My readers will, I doubt not, receive with kindly feelings not only the instructions on the important points of educating their horses to break off bad habits, but will profit by the ideas The inconvenience and unpleasantness of such a habit are too plain to need more than a mention, besides its often occasioning great alarm to a timid driver; and the simple yet practical means I have given for breaking up the habit, will be found successful whenever it is tried, as it always should be where the habit exists. TO EDUCATE AND PREVENT A HORSE FROM CRIBBING.TO EDUCATE AND PREVENT A HORSE FROM CRIBBING. Build a manger on the floor or from the floor up. In many cases this will prevent a horse from cribbing by getting his mouth below his chest. Another method, sure to be effective, is to place a piece of sheep-skin of long wool, eight inches wide and about three feet long, or long enough to reach from one side of the stall to the other, and on the skin sprinkle cayenne pepper; take soft soap and rub it on any part of the stall where the horse will be likely to crib. If the above instructions are strictly adhered to, and the horse is fed regularly, three times a day, there will be little danger of his ever becoming a cribber. The slight trouble which this remedy involves will be repaid a hundred-fold by the satisfaction felt in the prevention or cure of a most disagreeable habit, and one which, like every other fault, lessens the value of a horse. In using the cayenne pepper, a small quantity will be sufficient. There are more bad results accruing from cribbing than many are aware of. From cribbing the horse may become a crib-sucker, which often results in colic, or, as it is sometimes termed, belly-ache. When this occurs of course it becomes a dangerous habit, and no one should think it too much trouble to adopt the instructions given under this head. Do not think you can eradicate this habit by nailing tin or iron over the manger; you cannot remove it thus; your horse may desist for the time being, but when put into a stall that is not thus arranged, he will relapse into his old habit; but by adopting the remedy I have provided he will be thoroughly taught not to attempt to bite or gnaw the manger. There is a wide difference between preventing a horse from doing what he still wishes to do, and taking from him the disposition to do wrong; the latter alone can properly be called education, and is the only way in which a bad habit can be permanently removed. On this principle I base my whole system; it is education, by appealing to the intelligence of the horse. TO EDUCATE AND BREAK A HALTER-PULLER.TO EDUCATE AND BREAK A HALTER-PULLER. Place on the horse a common halter, without tie-strap; then take a small cord, about 16 to 18 feet long; divide it on the center, place it under the tail and cross it on the back; bring the ends each side of the neck, then place the ends through the halter under the mouth; tie round a post or tree. Then tie a strap from the mouth to the post or tree one foot shorter than the rope, after making it taut from the tail; then cut the strap half off, after which, frighten your horse by rolling a barrel in front of him; now he will fly back, breaking the strap, and he will be caught under the tail, which is a severe punishment that will, by repeating it two or three times, educate him not to pull at the halter again. The practical nature of the idea embraced in the foregoing directions will be seen at a glance, TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHEN THE LINE GETS UNDER HIS TAIL.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHEN THE LINE GETS UNDER THE TAIL. Horses become kickers from various causes, and one most effectual in producing the habit, is that when a horse gets the rein under his tail, his driver, getting provoked, pulls strongly on the rein in order to liberate it, and by this means burns the skin beneath the tail, when the horse becomes excited and commences to kick. The driver then usually begins to whip, and oftentimes the horse continues to kick, until he breaks everything within reach of his heels, and runs away. Now the owner has a confirmed kicker, and frequently knows not what to do to correct the fault he has himself established. The instructions below, if properly applied, will effect a cure. When your horse is down, as seen in the engraving, place a strap under his tail and commence moving it up and down; should he kick, or show signs of resistance, at once punish him; if not, In my book I have endeavored to grapple with almost every bad habit that the horse is addicted to, and would here advise all persons who handle them to be extremely careful that if their animals acquire unpleasant habits, they are not mostly to be blamed themselves. Horses differ materially in their ability to learn, and many are less susceptible of impressions than others, therefore, it behooves the educator to first make himself acquainted with the disposition of his horse, and treat him accordingly, as the same line of management will not serve for all, but an observance of one important direction, that of always using the utmost kindness, will, in most cases, prevent and remove all habits but those of long standing. ANOTHER METHOD OF EDUCATING A HORSE NOT TO KICK.ANOTHER METHOD OF EDUCATING A KICKING HORSE. I design to make this chapter as plain as possible, so that no man need fail to break up this worst of habits, and in order so to do, I will commence at the beginning. With the previously-described rig, lay the horse down, and commence to handle him. Take a stick or a piece of board and ply it on his hinder parts, then thrust it between his legs. Should he kick, punish in the mouth with Camanche bridle, but if he offers no resistance, caress. When you have secured submission allow your horse to rise to his feet, then put on him a head-stall and lines and commence driving him on the walk; every three or four rods pull sharply on the reins and at the same instant say “Whoa,” walk up and caress; start him off again, and repeat the I would enjoin upon the reader to practice the same method when educating colts, but not so severely, because by so doing you may make them stubborn; great patience must be exercised while handling colts, as the faults of one misplaced lesson will be visible. Therefore one cannot be too careful, particularly if the animal is nervous and excitable. TO CURE CORNS.Cut the horn well down, but not to the quick, fit the shoe so that it will not press upon the part, then saturate well with pine sap or gum, which is found exuding from pine trees when cut. Fill the part in nicely with tow, and put on the shoe, which must be so fitted as not to oblige the part to support, but very slightly, if any, the weight of the horse. Horses with corns must be oftener and more carefully shod than those free from them. TO HARDEN A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE.Place the bits in the animal’s mouth as low as possible, not to have them drop out, and drive him from two to three weeks with the bits in this way, and when they are buckled up in proper place he is hard-mouthed. TO EDUCATE THE HORSE BAD TO GROOM.TO EDUCATE THE HORSE BAD TO GROOM. After making the Bonaparte bridle, put it on the horse, standing at his side with the end of the cord in your hand, with the other hand use the curry-comb or brush and commence to groom him. If he should resist your efforts by attempting to kick or bite you, reprove him by pulling quickly on the cord, at the same time using the words “stand still.” Afterwards if he remains quiet, caress him; if the punishment should not prove effectual make the double half-hitch under the upper lip, as seen in engraving. HUGGING THE POLE.This is a great annoyance to the other horse, and he will probably learn to do the same thing, not from imitation, but from leaning inwards, so as to enable him to stand against the other horse, leaning upon him. This habit may be broken up by securing a piece of sole leather to the pole upon the side where the animal leans, having a number of tacks driven through it in such a manner as to protrude from the leather towards the horse. LUGGERS ON THE BIT.Buckle a pair of straps, about twelve inches long, with a ring at one end, and a buckle at the other, to the check-piece, and let the straps pass through the rings on either side of the bit; buckle the lines to the rings on these straps, instead of the rings on the bit; this forms a gag similar to the French twitch-gag, and is a powerful means of controlling the mouth of a hard-pulling horse. BITS USED IN EDUCATING HORSES ADDICTED TO BAD HABITS.BITS USED IN EDUCATING HORSES ADDICTED TO BAD HABITS. No. 1. To prevent a Horse getting his Tongue over the Bit.—Take a piece of leather, say three inches long, an inch and a half wide, and drill two holes in a straight bit; now rivet this leather on the top of the bit, after which sprinkle on the upper side some pulverized rosin, and take a hot iron and pass over it so as to form a coating. Allow your horse to wear this bit say six or eight days when driving, and he will by that time be sufficiently taught to abandon the habit. No. 2. Lolling the Tongue.—Take an ordinary straight bit of five-eighths of an inch in diameter and drill two holes, each one three-quarters of an inch from the center; then get a piece of very small chain, attach iron bullets, No. 3. Cure a Horse of Sucking Wind.—A horse that has acquired the habit of sucking wind is truly to be detested, as it is oftentimes attended with fatal results, and when once thoroughly settled, great difficulty has been experienced in removing the habit. The method I have introduced of treating this habit has proved successful in most cases. Take a piece of small gas-pipe, say from five-eighths to three-quarters of an inch in diameter, the ordinary length of a bit, heat it and circle it a little, then drill on the upper side equal distances apart from each end, as seen in engraving; also drill three holes on the under side, making each hole between an eighth and a quarter of an No. 4. To cure a Side-Reiner, one that Pulls heavily on one Rein.—Take a plain, jointed bit, remove one-half of the part used in the mouth and supply a small chain from the side ring to the center joint, now on the side that the animal pulls place the chain; he is not only attracted by the strange sensation in the mouth, but when pulled on the chain side receives such severe and unexpected punishment that he will quickly give up his habit. No. 5. Dead-Mouth or Jaw Bit.—This bit may be used on horses that pull very much on the reins, and a lady may with safety drive a horse, as she can control him quite easily. The attachment to this bit is made as follows: Take two pieces of leather about three inches in diameter, make a hole in the center of each to admit of the bit, cut the leather so as to put pieces on after, sew up slit, attach two billets on under side with buckle, then buckle on under jaw. This bit may be used without a head-stall. TO EDUCATE HORSES NOT TO BE AFRAID OF OBJECTS WHEN DRIVING.TO EDUCATE HORSES NOT TO BE AFRAID OF OBJECTS WHEN DRIVING. It is impossible to overestimate the value of the subjoined instructions respecting nervous and shying horses, therefore on this topic I wish to be particularly clear and explicit. Let the reader understand that horses take fright at objects because they fancy those objects will harm them, and if you can by any means appeal to the horse’s brain, and satisfy him that he is not going to be hurt, you have accomplished your object, and in order to do so, you must have control of your horse. I do not mean by this that you are to adopt the too frequent course pursued by many, viz., subduing with the whip, or other harsh means, which will, without almost an exception, increase the fear instead of removing the habit; again, when a horse shies, the driver commences to jerk on the rein nearest to the object, and at once applies the whip, fully determined to master his horse; both man and horse get excited, and the horse comes off victorious, because he cannot control him by the means In order to properly educate your horses in this department, I would specially direct the reader to observe and practice the following directions: Select, first, the most prominent objects at which he becomes frightened, then make the Bonaparte bridle of small cord, and place it on your horse under the bridle, carrying the end of the cord into the carriage, and when approaching an object at which he takes fright, get out of your carriage, stand nearly in front of him, give a quick downward pull, and say, “Come here!” At first do not punish him too severely; but if he will not obey, increase the punishment, and so soon as he complies, caress him. Bring him quite near the object, and, if possible, let him smell of it, as by adopting this method he will quickly understand that the object will not hurt him. Now turn him around, and drive him past the object two or three times, and you have accomplished your end. FIRST LESSON TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA.FIRST LESSON TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA. Place on the animal the throwing rig and proceed to lay him down, when, should he jump around and show resistance, do not get anxious to throw him quickly, but let him caper about, he will soon give up. After he is down present the umbrella to him folded up, allow him to smell of it, then rub it gently across his nose and head, now open it partly, again let him smell of it, shut it and open it several times until he becomes perfectly reconciled to the appearance, open or shut; work slowly and carefully so as not to excite him more than possible to avoid. In another part of my book I have illustrated the education of the animal to the umbrella when on his feet, and will not go further on this point than to use the old familiar word, caress. On no account should the operator, when practicing any idea in my system, forget that success greatly depends upon caressing when the animal obeys. HORSE BAD TO BRIDLE.Horses become unwilling to be bridled from various causes, sometimes from sores on the head or ears, sometimes from hurriedly and improperly removing the bridle, and sometimes from sheer ugliness of disposition, prompted by a desire to be master. The treatment in these cases should be varied. In the latter case named it will be necessary to lay the animal down, and while thus under control, handle his head and ears, after which put your bridle on and off several times, exercising patience and being careful to avoid anything like roughness. Should he resist, punish him in the mouth, using your best judgment to avoid severity, and so soon as he submits caress. As to the former, where a dislike to be bridled arises from abuses, kindness must govern the conduct of the educator. By using my Bonaparte bridle you will be able to control and counteract all predisposition to resist your efforts in a very short time. Should there be sores about the animal’s head, you had better restore to soundness before you attempt to educate to comply with your wishes. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO FEAR AN UMBRELLA. On page 261 may be found the first lesson to educate a horse that fears an umbrella. I now proceed to explain the idea illustrated by the foregoing cut. Place on the animal the Bonaparte half-hitch bridle—found on page 306. First present to him the umbrella closed; allow him to smell of it, then rub it gently across his nose and body, observing not to move quickly. Should he resist your efforts, jerk on the bridle and say “Whoa!” Make another attempt, and should he remain quiet, caress him. Now partly open it, placing it over his head, observing to avoid touching his head or ears with the umbrella—while doing so, caress; and you will be satisfied punishment in the mouth and caressing will accomplish all that you may desire. TREATMENT OF WOUNDS.Wounds are caused by accidents of various kinds, when the skin is much torn from the flesh. If you are at hand while the wound is quite fresh, take a square-pointed needle, and a waxed thread, and sew it up. Be sure to put the needle in straight, one side over against the other, draw the skin tight, tie a knot, and cut off the thread; then take another stitch about an inch off, till it is all nicely drawn together. It is quite wrong to sew up a wound as you would a piece of cloth; the thread should be cut after each stitch. When you do not see the wound till the place is growing dead, and the skin is drawing up, then take off the loose skin; for if you permit it to remain, it will leave a blemish. ENGLISH STABLE LINIMENT.Oil of spikes, aqua ammonia, and oil of turpentine, of each 2 oz.; sweet oil and oil of amber, of each ½ oz.; oil of origanum, 1 oz. Mix. TO EDUCATE A SINGLE-FOOTED HORSE TO TROT SQUARE.TO EDUCATE A SINGLE-FOOTED HORSE TO TROT SQUARE. Upon the hind leg of the horse that hitches or single-foots, place two hame-straps, one above and one below the gambol-joint, attaching a ring on front, by which means the straps are confined; then place a small strap on the opposite front leg just below the knee-joint, now buckle on a strap from fore-leg to hind-leg, passing it up under the surcingle (as seen in engraving). Now proceed to drive your horse, and you will at once discover that he cannot single-foot, but must trot. By paying particular attention to the instructions given, the pleasing result will follow and your horse will be taught to abandon the habit. The reader must be careful not to trot his horse fast up hill nor allow him to draw too much weight while trotting. RING-BONE REMEDY.Pulverized cantharides, oils of spike, origanum, amber, cedar, British, and Barbadoes tar, of each 2 oz.; oil of wormwood, 1 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 4 oz.; lard, 3 lbs. Melt the lard slowly, and add the other ingredients, stirring well till cool; clip off the hair, and apply by rubbing in and heating. In about three days, or when done running, wash off with suds and apply again. In recent cases, two or three applications will cure; old cases require more time. AN EXCELLENT LINIMENT FOR SPAVIN, SPLINT CURBS, ETC.Oils of spike, origanum, cedar, British, and spirits of turpentine, of each 1 oz.; pulverized Spanish flies, ½ oz. Apply once in six or nine days. TO EDUCATE A PACING HORSE TO TROT.TO EDUCATE A PACING HORSE TO TROT. Take four hame-straps, attach two on each hind-leg, one above and one below the gambol-joint, confining the straps on the front of the leg by means of a small ring. Then place two hame-straps on the front legs just below the knee-joint; buckle a strap from each fore-leg, carrying them up under the surcingle, and attach them to the rings in front of hind-legs, crossing strap from off fore-leg to nigh hind-leg, and from nigh fore-leg to off hind-leg; now commence to drive your horse, walking him very slow, as the new action of the legs may cause him to stumble; but after a few minutes you may increase his speed, and you will be delighted to see your horse trotting at a rate that will astonish you. POLL-EVIL AND FISTULA.Common potash, ¼ oz.; extract of belladonna, 12 drams; gum Arabic, ¼ oz. Dissolve the gum in as little water as possible; then, having pulverized the potash, unless it is moist, mix the gum water with it, and it will soon dissolve; add the belladonna; mix, and it is ready to use. The best method for getting this into the pipes, is by means of a small syringe, after having cleansed the sore well with suds. Repeat once in two days, until the callous pipes, and hard, fibrous base around the poll-evil or fistula are completely destroyed. NERVE AND BONE LINIMENT.Take beef’s gall, 1 quart; alcohol, 1 pint; volatile liniment, 12 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 1 lb.; oil of origanum, 4 oz.; aqua ammonia, ½ pint; oil of amber, 3 oz.; tincture of cantharides, 6 oz. Mix. TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TROT.TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO TROT FAST. The appliance required to form the trotting rig is arranged as follows: Take four hame-straps, attach two on each hind-leg, one above and one below the gambol-joint, confining the straps on the front part of the leg, by means of a small ring. Then take a standing martingale and attach a small pulley on the lower end of the martingale; then take a small, strong cord, tying one end in the ring on one hind-leg, passing the other end through the pulley, bringing it back to the other hind-leg and tie it in the ring; adjust the rope in accordance with the stride of your horse, observing to drive him very slow for a time until he shall become accustomed to the rig. This idea with alterations as hereinafter set forth may be successfully applied to horses while being used by the husbandman in ploughing, Put on the horse the trotting-rig, as seen in engraving, with the exception of the standing martingale attached from the pulley to the bit-ring of the bridle; then through the eye of the pulley insert a small cord, say twelve feet long, carry both ends up between the fore-legs, pass one end through the bit-ring on the off-side up over the head, and down on the nigh-side of the head to the bit-ring, and then tie it. Now take the other end of the cord and carry it up on the nigh-side through the bit-ring and pass it over the head down to the bit-ring on the off-side and there tie it. By thus manipulating your cord you will perceive that you have a system of severely punishing the horse when he shall kick. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE IN SHAFTS.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE IN SHAFTS. Horses are quite often educated to kick in harness as well as out and almost numberless accidents have been caused by this vicious and bad habit. Men are found reckless enough to tantalize their horse with a whip and sometimes punch him with a stick, regardless of consequences. The result, in most cases, is that the animal becomes a kicker, and the habit when once formed is not easily eradicated by resorting to the old stereotyped method of placing a strap over the horse’s rump and buckling to the shafts on each side. This treatment may in time effect the purpose, but it will require months to do so. Laying all others aside, I with confidence say to the reader, if he will but practice the subjoined idea he will find it not only practical but effectual, because the punishment is so severe that a Take a cord twenty feet long, divide it in the center, place it back of the ears, bring it down and cross it in the mouth, then bring it up between the eyes, placing a ring or loop there; now bring it back through a ring attached to the head-stall between the ears, then bring both ends of your cord under the saddle of the harness and along the back, to a ring slipped over the crupper against the hip-strap; bring the cords through the ring down to the shaft on each side of the horse, observing to leave just slack enough so that your horse may not be too much confined. The cord used may be quite small, so that it is strong. Now when your horse makes an attempt to kick he will find a severe punishment immediately meted out to him, and thus, finding his attempt fruitless as well as painful, he will be made DIURETIC DROPS.These drops are reliable in cases of stoppage of water, foul water, or inflammation of the kidneys. Take sweet spirits of nitre, 4 oz.; balsam copaiba, 2 oz.; oil of juniper, 2 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.; gum camphor, pulv., 1 oz. Mix all together, and shake well; bottle; and it is fit for use, for man or beast, under all circumstances where a diuretic is required. Dose for horse, 1 oz. in half a pint of milk, once in six hours. Dose for man, 1 teaspoonful, in a tablespoonful of milk, once in six hours. Be sure to shake the mixture up well before pouring out for use. TO EDUCATE A LAZY HORSE, AND INFUSE LIFE INTO HIM.TO EDUCATE A LAZY HORSE AND INFUSE LIFE INTO HIM. I have already given many ideas referring to balky horses, and as the old, tried remark is verily true, that “in the midst of council there is safety,” so with a multitude of ideas there is certain success. I will add one more to the catalogue. Something that especially attracts the attention of a horse accustomed to balk often causes him to forget for the moment his offensive habit and start off, much to the surprise of his driver. By adopting the idea illustrated in the engraving and the explanation connected therewith, the reader will have no difficulty, in ordinary cases, with this peculiar tormentor, in accomplishing his purpose. By many this may be considered a kind of jockey trick; but the reader will find the information valuable if he has a lazy horse or one that does not drive up well on the bit, as by following Directions.—Take a small chain, about three feet long, and attach to it a strap or limber stick about the same length; with this in hand walk into the stable and commence plying on him a few smart blows, with this educator, above the gambol-joint, repeating it once a day for three or four days; when you hit him of course the chain rattles and makes, to him, a peculiar noise. Now, after you harness him up, put the chain in your carriage, then take your place behind him and commence driving, and when you want to show style, just kick the chain about a little with your boot and you will be surprised at the spirit and zeal manifested by your horse. AN EASY METHOD OF STARTING A BALKY HORSE WHO STOPS ON THE ROAD.AN EASY METHOD OF STARTING A BALKY HORSE. Among the various bad habits which horses acquire there are none which more severely try the patience of man than does the habit of balking. Frequently a horse is quiet, kind, and a good roadster, but has this habit of occasionally stopping in the road. At such times the almost universal practice is to whip the horse, and sometimes most brutally, or the more sickening custom of procuring a bundle of straw or some shavings and setting them on fire under the body of the horse. Such kinds of treatment I utterly discard, and the reader will find, in another part of my book, that I give several methods which will prove effectual in eradicating this habit, only meting out sufficient punishment to secure obedience. Below I give an excellent method of starting a balky horse, and one which will prove effectual, though it will not educate the horse to TO EDUCATE A BALKY HORSE TO DRAW IN DOUBLE HARNESS.TO EDUCATE A BALKY HORSE TO DRAW. Persons have resorted to many things in order to make a balky horse draw, and, after laboring for months, have seen all their efforts fail and are often disappointed by finding their animal worse instead of better. Let me assure the reader that however other methods may have failed, if he will but follow the subjoined instructions he will certainly accomplish the end desired. Instructions.—Take a small strong rope, about a quarter of an inch in diameter and sixteen feet long, double the rope and place it under the balky horse’s tail; carry the ends up through a ring attached to the crupper or hip-straps, then pass them through the terret-ring on the saddle of the harness, and bring the ends to the true horse’s hame-ring; then tie firmly, exercising judgment about the slack to be given to the cord; then commence to draw slowly and your balky horse will soon learn that he has got to move with his mate. OINTMENT FOR ALL BRUISES, SCRATCHES, HEEL GREASE, SADDLE GALLS, ETC.Take 3 oz. white lead, 3 oz. lard, 1 oz. burnt alum, and 5 grains calomel. If the sore is of long standing, use 10 grains of calomel. HOOF LINIMENT, FOR CONTRACTED HOOF.Venice turpentine, ½ pint; aqua ammonia, 2 oz.; salts of nitre, 1 oz.; benzine, 1 oz.; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to edge of the hair and to the hoof, twice a day for the first three days; once a day for the next three days; after that, once in two, three, or four days, as the case may require. REMEDY FOR BOTTS.Take oil of turpentine, 8 oz.; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix and bottle for use. Dose, 4 to 5 oz. in the horse’s feed, once a day for 8 days, will effectually remove every vestige of botts. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING SHOD.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING SHOD. The reader has heretofore been instructed how to lay the horse down and thus get him under his control; but as horses possess a variety of bad habits, it becomes necessary that I should treat each one separately, and carefully explain, so that none can misapprehend. Many horses rigidly resist the efforts of the blacksmith when undertaking to shoe his hind-feet, but the following ideas will enable you to thoroughly educate him to stand quiet. Place a strap or cord between the hoof and fetlock joint; then stand in front of the horse and commence to pull the foot forward; if he shows resistance punish him in the mouth; continue to pull and punish until he will allow you to thus handle the leg, and, so soon as he remains quiet, step up and caress him; then stand behind him and pull his leg backwards several TO EDUCATE A HORSE, WHILE STANDING, THAT IS BAD TO SHOE.TO EDUCATE A HORSE WHILE STANDING THAT IS BAD TO SHOE. The treatment for educating the horse after being laid down, which has been given, is to show him that your power is superior to his; the method now to be given will show him that you have the same power over him when standing as when he is down. Place on him the Bonaparte bridle, as shown in the engraving, and take a half-hitch, placing it back of the ears and down under the upper lip, as shown in the engraving. Place a man at the side of his head to punish him with this bridle when he does wrong, remembering, as soon as the animal does right, to caress him. Take a single rein, or a rope, about fifteen feet long, placing it on the hind-foot below the fetlock joint with loops; then stand behind the horse and lift his foot; if he shows resistance or TO PREVENT HORSES BEING TEASED BY FLIES.Take one-half pound of walnut or butternut leaves, and pour upon them three quarts of cold water; let it infuse one night, and pour the whole next morning into a kettle, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour. When cold it is fit for use. No more is required than to moisten a sponge, and before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts most likely to be irritated be well smeared over with the liquor, between and upon the ears, neck, flank, etc. DOUBLE-HITCH BONAPARTE BRIDLE.DOUBLE HITCH BONAPARTE BRIDLE. This bridle may be used with great success, for many purposes in educating horses possessed of vicious or bad habits, and in order that the reader may not make a mistake I will explain it. First. Make a small loop with one end of the cord and place it on the under jaw, then carry the cord on the off-side of the head over back of the ears, and bring it down through the loop on the nigh-side, you have now the Bonaparte bridle, afterwards pass the cord through your right hand, then with your left take hold of the cord and place it over the top of the head, and bring the cord down with your left hand under the upper lip. The great advantage of this bridle is the complete control of the horse which it gives to the one using it. After the animal has learned its power all thought of resisting leaves him and he submits to the will of his owner. Harsh as I will only add that a horse never should be coaxed, he is first to be subdued by fear and ever after is controlled only as he has a sense of the superiority of the one who uses him. THE ONLY SAFE METHOD OF CONTROLLING A HORSE BAD TO SHOE.ONLY SAFE METHOD OF CONTROLLING A HORSE BAD TO SHOE. I appended to a former plate instructions whereby a horse may be educated not to kick while shoeing; but if owners of horses will not take the pains to educate, it is scarcely reasonable that the blacksmith should be subject to severe torture in shoeing a vicious horse; therefore I have provided the foregoing plate as descriptive of the mode of perfectly controlling the horse’s hind-foot, so that the farrier need have no fears for his safety. Take a single rein or cord, make a slip-noose and put it on the horse’s hind-leg between the fetlock-joint and hoof; then bring the rein or cord forward to the breast and pass it around over the neck at the shoulder; now bring it down and put it under the rein or cord, forming a half-hitch, and bring up the leg so as to make it convenient for the smith to pare the hoof or nail the shoe; then take a pole-strap or one of similar width, and Should the horse attempt to recline over on the blacksmith, put on the Bonaparte bridle with double half-hitch, and pull quickly two or three times, and he will gladly stand erect while being shod. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF THE CARS.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF THE CARS. Much difficulty, and loss of property, has resulted from not being able to control horses that become frightened at the approach of the locomotive or cars, and, in order to avoid the annoyance and prevent accidents, I have with great care prepared the foregoing plate, and will now give an accurate description of the mode of educating the animal, and the appliance required, I will first describe the bridle, seen at the right of the horse. Make the Bonaparte bridle as previously directed, then place it on the horse, stand at the nigh-side holding the cord in your right hand, now pass your left hand over the right and take hold of the cord, then by bringing the hand back and stepping in front of the horse, you have formed a half-hitch, then place it over the head and bring it down under the upper lip and above the upper jaw, thus you have a SWEENY LINIMENT.Alcohol, and spirits of turpentine, of each 8 oz.; camphor gum, pulverized cantharides and tincture of capsicum, of each 1 oz.; oil of spike 3 oz. Bathe this liniment in with a hot iron, and faithfully follow till a cure is effected. TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BACK AT THE WORD OF COMMAND.TO EDUCATE A HORSE TO BACK AT THE WORD OF COMMAND. This point in the education of a horse is one of great importance, for no animal can be considered thoroughly educated till he will obey the command of his driver without the necessity of using the rein or the whip. Many persons in order to stop their horse will draw with all their strength upon the rein, and to back him requires the exertion of a force enough almost to bring the horse on his haunches, when in either case a well-educated horse will stop or back at the driver’s voice without the need for even drawing upon the rein. To educate the horse to back at the word of command, let the reader take his stand behind the horse and with the rein in his hand, previously arranged as shown in the engraving, commence the lesson. He may, if he pleases, start the horse forward for a few paces, then stop him, and then with a sudden, short and pretty powerful This method will be invariably successful, and is so far superior to the protracted and unsatisfactory means formerly employed, that it should be everywhere adopted. TO EDUCATE HORSES OR CATTLE NOT TO JUMP THE FENCE.TO EDUCATE HORSES OR CATTLE NOT TO JUMP FENCES. Buckle a surcingle around the horse’s body, then buckle a hame-strap, making two turns with strap between the knee and fetlock on each fore-leg; next buckle two hame-straps on each hind-leg, above and below the gambol-joint, placing a ring, say one and one-half inches in diameter, as seen in plate. Now place a strap or cord from the ring on off hind-leg up through the surcingle, then attach it to the nigh fore-leg; then another strap or cord from the nigh hind-leg to the off fore-leg. Now when the horse, or other animal, starts to jump over a fence the appliance will arrest his progress, for, as he throws his fore-legs forward, at the same time it acts upon his hind legs, taking them out from under him, and you will find him sitting up in the field where you turned him out. After three or four lessons your horse will be thoroughly educated not to jump a fence. FOR INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS.First, bleed thoroughly; then give tinc. veratrum, ½ oz.; laudanum, 4 oz.; tincture aconite, ¼ oz.; shake well, and give a teaspoonful every three hours, in a pint of water, well sweetened, and, if the pulse is not reduced in a short time, increase the dose to a tablespoonful, until the fever abates. As soon as the horse recovers so as to eat and lie down naturally, keep him on hay, with a few carrots or potatoes, and daily give a bran-mash, with saltpetre, pulverized antimony and sulphur, for a week or ten days, and you will prevent dropsy of the chest, which usually follows this disease. A REMEDY TO CURE THE HEAVES.One-half pint of turpentine, 2 oz. assafoetida, 2 oz. aloes, 4 oz. lobelia seed, 1 quart of whisky, 2 oz. of sal ammoniac, 4 oz. saleratus, 1 oz. of camphor. Dose, one tablespoonful once a day. TO EDUCATE A COW NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING MILKED.TO EDUCATE A COW NOT TO KICK WHILE BEING MILKED. Hitch the cow to a post, then make the Bonaparte bridle as follows: Make a loop and put it on the lower jaw, carrying the end of the cord on the off-side of the head and around over behind the horns, bringing it down to the mouth on the nigh-side, through the loop. Now carry the cord around the nigh hind-leg, to the off hind-leg and tie it just above the gambol-joint. Then sit down to milk; now the moment the cow kicks, an impression is made on her brain, and she soon learns that by kicking she punishes herself, and rather than suffer the pain inflicted she yields to the influence and says by her actions, “I will not kick again.” The principle here is the obvious one that no animal will persist in doing that which causes suffering to itself, and the moment that it comes to associate the idea of suffering with any action, it will make that action distasteful. COLIC OR GRIPES.Symptoms.—Pawing, manifesting a desire to lie down, and, without doing so, commence pawing again. As the symptoms increase, the animal cannot be kept on his feet; he frequently falls as if shot; pulse not altered from natural condition. Intervals of rest, together with the condition of the pulse, distinguish the disease from inflammation of the bowels. Treat as follows: Frequent injections of soap and water, and give internally spirits of nitre, 1 oz.; laudanum, 1 oz.; water, ½ pint; mix for drench. This may be repeated in twenty minutes, if relief is not obtained. Another remedy, giving instant relief: From 5 to 10 drops of chloroform, given on sugar, I have never known to fail giving immediate relief. I have known men to be from home, and have their horses taken with this disease, and use this remedy, and in thirty minutes the horses were able to be driven. TO EDUCATE A COW TO LET HER MILK DOWN WHILE MILKING.TO EDUCATE A COW TO LET HER MILK DOWN. Much inconvenience, besides an actual loss of money, is experienced by persons who own cows that are in the habit of withholding their milk. Having spent fifteen years of my life in gathering knowledge of value to the farmer, and to other owners of animals, I am unwilling that even one valuable idea should be lost to the reader, and therefore I have, at considerable expense, illustrated the above-named point, believing that it will be of benefit to many persons. Although the method to be employed is very simple, it will be found practical in its operation, while success will be certain where the directions are followed: Take a common bag, put into it a bushel or a bushel and a half of grain, or its equivalent in weight of sand, then place the bag across the back of the animal, as indicated in the engraving PRACTICAL RESULT OF EDUCATING THE COW TO GIVE DOWN MILK.PRACTICAL RESULT OF EDUCATING THE COW TO GIVE DOWN MILK. Having directed the attention of the reader to the education of the cow so as not to disappoint her owner in receiving the quota of milk he may rightly expect, it is but natural that the eye should be gratified by witnessing the result. For this purpose I have prepared this engraving, in which is represented the bag and its contents upon the back of the animal, in just the spot where it should be placed. The reader will also perceive the impatient wife standing with milking pail and stool in hand, waiting for the result, which becomes apparent in the freely flowing milk, and one can almost imagine that he hears her saying to her husband that it is scarcely necessary now to milk the cow, for the simple method adopted has caused a spontaneous flow of milk, and nothing now is needed but to set the pail under her and view with wonder and delight the pleasing effect produced! A CURE FOR HEAVES, NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED.Take a common stone jar, fill it with eggs, cover them with cider vinegar, and let it stand till the vinegar eats up the shells. Then stir all together. Take a lump of lime about the size of a goose-egg, slack it in hot water, using about one quart of water. Add one-half pint of the lime-water to a quart of the egg mixture. Give a teacupful, at feeding time, in feed, three times a day. TO CURE WORMS IN HORSES.One dram white hellebore in powder, 1 dram sulphate of iron in powder, 1 oz. flaxseed meal. The above for one dose, mixed with bran-mash, given at night. Repeat in forty-eight hours, if the horse is old. Two doses are enough for the worst case. TO EDUCATE CATTLE TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON.TO EDUCATE CATTLE TO LEAD BEHIND A WAGON. Make a rope halter and put it on the head of the animal you desire to lead; then take a small rope, about twenty feet long, double it in the center, placing it under the tail; cross it on the back, bringing the ends down each side of the animals neck and then through the nose-piece of the halter under the lower jaw, and tie the ends firmly to the end of your wagon. If you wish to lead more than one, take another rope, twice the length of the former one, double it in the center, placing it under the tail, cross it on the back, bringing the ends down each side of the animal’s neck and then through under the lower jaw. Now bring the ends, one on each side of the forward cow, and carry the rope through the halter under the jaw and tie it to the wagon. By adopting this plan no difficulty will be experienced in educating your animals to lead, and when you drive home with your cattle following thus they will be sure to arrive there at the same time as yourself. TO EDUCATE A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE TO PULL ON THE BIT.TO EDUCATE A TENDER-MOUTHED HORSE TO PULL ON THE BIT. Many horses are very sensitive to a hurt in any part of the body, so much so that they often grow frantic when severely punished, and it seems to be the delight of some persons to inflict injury to a horse of this temperament, sometimes with a view to make him rear or prance about, believing it adds to the appearance of the animal, when the contrary is the fact; a bad habit is almost sure to grow out of such treatment, and then it may take some time to eradicate it. One of the evils often presented is that the animal becomes tender-mouthed, and I have known many cases where balking has been the result. Let me urge the reader never to jerk sharply on the bit, except when educating or correcting a habit, as heretofore directed. The only effectual method of treatment for a tender mouth is to use a large straight bit, leave the check-rein quite loose, and drop the bit low down in the mouth, as seen in engraving, which will slip up and down and harden the mouth in a short time. TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF A BUFFALO ROBE.TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO BE AFRAID OF A BUFFALO ROBE. The education of the horse being quite a new idea to many persons, it therefore becomes necessary that, in my characteristic explanations, I should make my ideas both plain and simple—so that even the most unlettered may not become fogged while attempting to apply any illustrated idea in my work. A Buffalo robe is an article in common use, and one at which very many horses become frightened, proving a decided source of annoyance. Let not the reader imagine that one lesson, as below indicated, is sufficient to warrant success and thoroughly eradicate the habit. Much depends upon the temperament of the animal; but, in most cases, three lessons carefully imparted will accomplish the purpose. After you have given two or three lessons do not tempt your horse by suddenly approaching him with the robe, and when you do approach him, be sure you have the Bonaparte bridle on him, that you may be able at once to control when the slightest resistance is seen. Directions.—If your animal is very nervous lay him down, as directed in other places, fold the robe, hair side in, making it as small as possible; let him smell of it, rub it gently over his nose, head and body; punish if he resists—if not caress. When submission is apparent allow him to rise to his feet; then, with your Bonaparte bridle, properly adjusted, present the robe to him again. Bearing in mind the grand idea, punish for disobedience and caress when he obeys. Carefully avoid all unnecessary excitement while educating any animal, as it only tends to benumb their senses and make them less susceptible of being taught. |