CHAPTER XLVIII.

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Los Angelos:—Catholic Celebration of Corpus Christi:—Arrival in San Francisco:—Letter to President Brigham Young:—Family Letter.

Los Angeles is a fertile, well watered, and delightful valley of vineyards and orchards, with a fine old Spanish town—a mixture of American, European, Spanish and Indian population—and has been cultivated for eighty years.

Thursday, 19th.—I attended the Catholic celebration of Corpus Christi, and witnessed perhaps five hundred people of all ages, sexes and colors, the Indian blood prevailing—three priests at their head—performing the various ceremonies. The ladies in the finest dresses I ever beheld in any country, consisting of silks and satins of various figures and extreme costliness; white muslin, cambric, etc., made in full dresses, together with costly silk and satin shawls worn over the head and enclosing the shoulders, bosom and waist, leaving only the face in view; while all other portions of their persons were buried beneath the rich and ample folds of costly apparel.

In these costly robes every female knelt or sat on the filthy floor of earth in the old church for hours! No seats, carpets, or spreads of any kind; while various images were exhibited in turn, and were worshipped in humble postures, and with low chants, amid the discharges of cannon and crackers, the beating of drums, and the tinkling of bells.

Clouds of incense rose before each image, and perhaps one hundred candles were burning at midday. All the men were also dressed in their best and knelt in a devout manner, or stood in a reverent posture with hats off.

Not one changed place, or was seen to leave the church, although the services lasted for hours, without one seat or other convenience whereon to rest.

This ended, all formed in procession and moved around the public square, beneath the beautiful arches richly decorated, and the walk lined on each side with green branches.

At proper distances were placed images amid costly decorations, before which all fell upon their knees, and remained for a length of time prostrated in the thick dust with all their finery, chanting hymns, praying and worshipping, while crackers were discharged in profusion. Even all the spectators must stand in the broiling sun in the roads uncovered, or give great offense.

In a few days Brother Wood returned from the rear camps where he and Brother Allen had been with provisions. Reported all well and prosperous. Brothers Lyman and Rich also paid us a visit, and some others.

Brothers Hammond, Perkins, Wood and Murdock with their baggage, etc. started for the landing at San Pedro. The remainder tarried to complete their sales.

Sunday, 29th.—I preached in the court house in Los Angeles to some forty attentive persons, mostly American gentlemen.

Monday, 30th.—I sold my last wagon and moved down to the Port at San Pedro. Found that portion of the brethren well who went down before, and camped with them on the beach.

July 7th.—We embarked on board the steamship Ohio, and set sail for San Francisco, at 4 o'clock P. M.

After four days' rather rough passage, we arrived in San Francisco on the 11th inst. at eleven o'clock, A. M. Found some good brethren who rendered us assistance in various ways. Rented a house the same day, and all moved into it together.

Brothers Lyman and Rich arrived per steamer Goliah. We visited and received visits.

Sunday, 20th.—I preached at eleven A. M. in a large room, a goodly number of persons out to hear, and good attention. Next morning we repaired to the water and baptized eight persons, and the same evening met at the house of Brother Winner and organized a branch of the Church, confirming the above persons.

I was chosen president of this branch, and Philo B. Wood, clerk. The remainder of the week devoted to writing and instructing inquirers who called.

I wrote the following letter to Elder Addison Pratt, Society Isles:

SAN FRANCISCO, July 26, 1851.

DEAR BROTHER PRATT: My long contemplated mission to the Pacific has at length become a reality. I am here, having left home in March last. Eight of us are here, and will go to the Sandwich Islands and elsewhere as the way opens and the Spirit directs. Brother P. B. Lewis and wife would have sailed for your islands with letters, etc., but Brothers Clark and Thompkins having arrived, we concluded to send no more laborers to that part of the vineyard at present.

I hold the presidency of all the islands and coasts of the Pacific, under the direction of the First Presidency of the Church—to open the door to every nation and tongue, as fast as the way is prepared and the Lord directs, for the preaching of the gospel of salvation.

As president of that part of the vineyard you will preach the gospel to every people as fast as possible. Send men to the Friendly Isles, or to any other groups where the way may be open, and as circumstances will permit, as you are led by the Holy Ghost. If you need more laborers send to me at this place. I am well known here, and making some progress. Also make your report to me from time to time, and ask such counsel as you may need.

Elder Philip B. Lewis will sail for the Sandwich Islands, accompanied by his wife, Brother Hammond and wife, and Brother Woodbury and wife. He will have the presidency of those islands. It would be well if you would correspond with him.

The work is prospering wonderfully in Deseret, England, Wales, Scotland, Switzerland, Italy, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, etc. Several young men are with me who will go to Chili and Peru in due time. Bishop Murdock will also go soon to the English Colonies in New Zealand, Van Dieman's Land, or New Holland, if the Lord will.

Our instructions to the elders abroad, everywhere, are to seek the Spirit and gift of the Holy Ghost, by humble prayer and faith and good works. Also, to take no part in government matters, except to uphold and obey the authorities and laws of every nation where they may labor, and teach others to do so.

The laws of the country we are in will govern us in all things consistent with liberty of conscience, freedom of speech, etc.

With sentiments of love and good will I subscribe myself,

Your brother in the gospel,
PARLEY P. PRATT.

SAN FRANCISCO, July 26, 1851.

To His Majesty KING KAMAHAMAHA and the People of the Sandwich Isles. GREETING:

I beg leave to introduce to the favorable notice of your Majesty and subjects, and to commend to your protection, hospitality and kind consideration the following persons, who go out as missionaries and residents to your country:

Elders P. B. Lewis, Francis A. Hammond and Stillman Woodbury, with their wives.

These persons are from Great Salt Lake City, Utah Territory, U. S., and have been selected by the Presidency of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints to fulfil a mission to the Pacific.

Mr. Hammond is a former resident and artisan of your kingdom, and we trust is favorably known to your Majesty and some of his fellow citizens. We can confidently recommend these gentlemen as men of good character, and men who bring good news, peace and good will to man.

With sentiments of high consideration and esteem for your Majesty and the people of your realm, I have the honor to subscribe myself,

Your humble servant and the friend of man,

P. P. PRATT,
President of the Pacific Mission of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

I here give a few extracts from a letter to President Brigham Young:

SAN FRANCISCO, August 28, 1851.
PRESIDENT YOUNG.

Dear Brother: I am well, or rather so as to be able to perform my daily duties, although not in good health.

I arrived in this place some time in July, together with those who accompanied me on the mission. * * * * * * If the Presidency wishes to make any communication on any subject, letters addressed to me at San Francisco, California, will be forwarded to me to Chili, or elsewhere, as I shall not leave this place without appointing an agent to receive and forward all papers and communications.

The Sandwich Islands are at peace, and enjoy a free government. We have sent to those islands three additional missionaries who sailed on the sixth day of August for the Port of Honolulu. P. B. Lewis is appointed to preside over that mission.

* * * * Since I have arrived here I have been diligent in the duties of my calling every hour, and have called upon God for His Spirit to help me with all the energy I possessed, and without ceasing. The result is, the Spirit of the Lord God has been upon me continually, in such light, and joy, and testimony as I have seldom experienced.

Brothers A. Lyman and C. C. Rich have been here with me some of the time; we have called together the old members and others, and preached repentance and reformation of life. We have re-baptized many of them, and have re-organized the Church. Several new members are being added—some of whom are young people of the old members, and others are strangers from different countries. We are upwards of fifty members in number. We have preaching twice a day on Sundays in a large theatre in the center of the city, and prayer meetings on Sunday and Thursday evenings. Strangers give good attention. The members feel well, and are full of faith and the good Spirit, and the Spirit is poured out till our hearts are full.

I expect to leave this country soon for South America, unless I should be able to go to New York, via the Isthmus, to get some books printed.

I am studying Spanish with all diligence, and will, I trust, master it in the course of a few months.

Now, my dear brethren of the Presidency, accept this manifestation of my remembrance, good wishes and determinations, and rest assured you are always upheld by my prayers and good wishes. I want your prayers—your continued confidence, and your good wishes and fellowship. I want the Spirit of God and His angels to be with me; and I fear not earth, nor hell, nor men, nor devils, nor death. I desire power to do good continually, and to bring about the restoration of His people. I glory in my calling. I would not exchange it for any other position or calling on this earth.

I hope to come home by and by and see you all, and see the preparations for the ordinances and powers of Heaven in your midst in state of forwardness; such as peace, union and diligence can alone produce. So farewell.

With my best wishes and prayers,
Your brother and laborer in the truth,
P. P. PRATT.

During my stay in San Francisco I wrote a proclamation of the gospel addressed to the people of the coasts and islands of the Pacific, which was afterwards published by Elder Wandell in Australia. I also commenced the book entitled Key to Theology . At a public meeting of the Saints, Elder George K. Winner was unanimously chosen and set apart to preside over the San Francisco branch—myself being honorably discharged from the duties of the same, with a view of a mission to Chili.

I then spoke of my duties to other parts of the Pacific; was honorably discharged from the presidency of the branch with a vote of thanks, and a sum of money, amounting in all to fourteen hundred and ten dollars, was then and afterwards subscribed to assist me on my mission.

Sept. 5.—I sailed for Valparaiso, Chili, on board the bark Henry Kelsey. After a tedious and disagreeable passage of sixty-four days, arrived safe in Valparaiso, Nov. 8th, accompanied by my wife and Elder Rufus Allen, all in tolerable health.

Found the country in a state of civil war, and most kinds of business at a dead stand—men's hearts failing them for fear.

I then finished the following letter which I had commenced on the sea:

SHIP "HENRY KELSEY," PACIFIC OCEAN,
Lat. 24 N., lon. 115 W.,
Sept. 15, 1851.

Dear Family—Here we are on the deep, bound for Chili, S. A.—self, Phebe and R. Allen. We sailed from San Francisco on the 5th inst. Have had fine weather, excepting three days, in which we were becalmed; and have sailed more than eleven hundred miles. We are now running before the wind seven miles an hour. We have all been sea sick, and have not yet recovered in full. We are the only passengers, and have the cabin to ourselves, except at meals. We study Spanish every day. It is a beautiful language, and wonderfully adapted to the simplicity of the Lamanites. I hope to master it during the passage and a few months' residence among the Chileans.

We pay sixty dollars for passage in the cabin, and found. We expect to be two months in going.

Well, dear ones, six months have passed, and their events been recorded in the records of eternity since we parted; all this time I have had not one lisp from you. Oh, how lonesome! Just imagine the monotony. Sky and sea! Sea and sky! Night and day! Day and night! Infinitude of space! Boundless waste! Emblem of eternal silence! Eternal banishment! Eternal loneliness, where the voice of the bridegroom and of the bride are not heard. Where the holy music of children's voices, in joyous merriment, falls not on the ear; where no changing or varied landscape relieves the eye; where no vegetation, or leafy bower, or sweet blooming flower cheers the senses, where no birds tune their soft notes of praise announce the dawn, or sound the requiem of the closing day.

Even the fierce and ravenous beast of the desert (which, in his native solitude, announces with doleful and prolonged howls the midnight hour, or wakes the weary traveller at early dawn, and gives the signal for another day of thirst, and toil, and suffering) is lacking here.

On this boundless waste of waters there is seldom anything to break the monotony of eternal silence, or, rather, of the roar of the waves as they break in increasing foam upon each other, or against the vessel's side.

Thanks for that promise, "There shall be no more sea." Thanks for the hope that all the elements of nature will one day be adapted to the enjoyment or occupation of intellectual life, or social and sympathetic existence.

Just imagine sundown, twilight, the shades of evening, the curtains of the solitary night gathering in silent gloom and lone melancholy around a father who loves his home and its inmates; his fireside and the family altar! Behold him standing leaning over the vessel's side as it glides over the waters of the lone and boundless Pacific, gazing for hours in succession into the bosom of its dark abyss, or watching its white foam and sparkling spray! What ate his thoughts? Can you divine them? Behold, he prays! For what does he pray? For every wife, for every child, for every near and dear friend he has on earth, he prays most earnestly! most fervently! He calls each by name over and over again, before the altar of remembrance. And when this is done for all on earth, he remembers those in Heaven; calls their names; communes with them in spirit; wonders how they are doing; whether they think of him. He calls to mind their acts and sufferings in life, their death and the grave where sleeps their precious dust.

This done, he prays for Zion, Jerusalem, Judah, Israel, the Church, the Holy Priesthood, the resurrection of the just, the kingdom and coming of Messiah, the end of war, and sin, and death, and wrong, and oppression, and sorrow, and mourning, and tears; and for earth, and Heaven, and God, angels and men, to be joined forever in the bonds of eternal peace, and love and truth.

This done, he commends himself, the vessel and his all on board to God, and to the guardianship of his good angel. Amen. Walks the deck a few minutes, examines the sails, the speed of the vessel, the course of the wind, and then retires to rest to dream of home.

October 5th.—Coast of Peru, S. A., lat. 3 deg. 30 m. S. A month passed on the ocean; much head wind, some calms, and more or less sickness has attended us by turns until the present. We have not been able to read, write, or study much, therefore the time has passed off very tediously indeed.

We have a miser for a captain, who thinks more of a sixpence than he does of our lives or even of his own. He will not suffer the steward to cook potatoes, bread, pies, puddings or any other wholesome food, but keeps us on hard, mouldy bread, full of bugs and worms, and on salt beef and pork—the pork being rotten. He has flour, potatoes and good pork, but will not allow it to be used; thus you will readily perceive that we ate truly in unpleasant circumstances.

Last evening we came near a shipwreck, having run near the land without knowing it, and it fell calm. The ship became unmanageable, and was drifting on to the shore, but we cast anchor and awaited the light of morning, when we got under weigh with much labor, and stood again to sea.

FRENCH HOTEL, Valparaiso, Chili, S. A.,
November 9th.

Dear Friends: After a most disagreeable and tedious passage of sixty-four days we have at length arrived in port, in tolerable health. We landed yesterday at noon, and took lodgings and board at a French Hotel, where we have a great variety of good eating, and a front parlor to ourselves—price four dollars per day for three of us. The proprietor speaks French, the clerk French, with a little English, the landlady German, the waiter Spanish, and ourselves English, with a little Spanish.

So you see we have a little Babel of our own, independently of Nimrod or the great tower.

We find the country in the midst of revolution and civil war. Two persons and their adherents fighting for power and rule. Business is dull, living high, and doubt and uncertainty characterizing every transaction in the various business departments.

On Sunday we attended a meeting in a very large building. We saw thousands of both sexes, and of all classes and ages, throng the place, bow down on their knees and worship certain images and paintings with much apparent devotion. No instructions were given in any language, no music, no voice or sound, except a low, plaintive voice in the far end of the room, not addressed to the people, neither sufficiently loud or distinct to be understood by them.

The worshippers were dressed in a variety of degrees of neatness or of its opposite. Some of them wore very costly apparel, and others were very neatly clad. All seemed full of zeal and devotion. All bowed down on their knees in silent, solemn attitudes. All their faces seemed disfigured with a painful and awe-stricken solemnity. All made certain signs and motions, while they said nothing audible, and the impression of a strange observer would be that the image, to which every eye was turned with long and supplicating gaze and imploring look, had no ears to hear, but was deeply versed in the science of physiognomy, and also acquainted with the deaf and dumb alphabet.

On inquiry, we were informed that this kind of worship prevailed throughout Spanish America and various other countries, and that it is called by the dignified name of Christianity, and that it is very ancient.

From all which circumstances I infer that it must have been instituted soon after the Church of Jesus Christ became extinct in the Roman world, and, by some unaccountable blunder, borrowed its name from those institutions, which it does not even resemble in the least in any one feature save the name.

Sunday, November 16th. Dear friends:—During the past week we have rented a house, purchased furniture and commenced housekeeping. We devote almost our entire time to the Spanish language.

Our house is in the rear of a block of buildings which fronts a large and beautiful street, called Victoria street. It opens into a large yard, surrounded with high walls and with other buildings, and filled with beautiful trees, such as orange, fig, peach, pear, etc., together with pinks and a variety of other flowers and shrubs. Its walks and pavements are neatly swept, and the houses around it occupied with widows, orphans, etc., of a good class of Spanish or Chilanoes, and their kind and sociable young people and little children.

We divide our time between reading and studying our Spanish lessons, and chatting, visiting, reading Spanish, hearing them read, and playing with the little ones, etc., all of which pleases them much, and causes us to advance in the language with a rapidity which is almost astonishing to ourselves and to them. Truly Providence has ordered our footsteps and cast our lot in pleasant circumstances, when we were strangers in a strange land, and among a people of a strange tongue. Truly He has opened our way to learn that tongue, and we can learn it if we are diligent.

Rents are high here, provisions and fuel dear. Strawberries, oranges, lemons, etc., are in market, as well as green peas, and other vegetables, and melons. It is, in fact, a state of advanced spring or early summer. The peaches, pears and figs are perhaps one-third their size on the trees, while the flowers are in full bloom.

NOVEMBER IN CHILI

'Tis the spring of the year, all the fountains are full,
All nature is pregnant with life and with love;
A chorus of voices ascend from each pool,
A myriad of songsters enliven the grove.
To her nest in the Andes, the condor retires,
The winds from magellan no longer prevail,
And Sol, with the north breeze returning, inspires
New life on the zephyr, and love on the gale.
The forest is clad in its robes of fresh green—
Where the dove sings an anthem, his mate to decoy.
The orchard is dressed as a holiday queen,
And the rosebud is bursting with fullness of joy.
The orange, the olive, the fig and the vine
Are clothed as in Eden, with innocent bloom;
The earth is an altar of incense divine,
Exhales a sweet odor of richest perfume.
The young of the flock bound exulting away
While their dams nip the blade, 'mid the dewdrops of morn,
And groups of young children are sportive and gay;
Yet my heart, 'mid this gladness, is sad and forlorn.
I sigh for the storms of November to come,
The frost, and the snow-drifted plain I would see;
The bleak, wintry blasts of my own mountain home,
And the storm-beaten glaziere are dearer to me.
The chime of the sleigh-bell again I would hear,
The low moaning tempest in harmony roll—
It would speak of my country and kindred so dear;
Oh! this would be music indeed to my soul.

With sentiments of the most endearing affection,
I remain yours, etc.,
P. P. PRATT

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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