- CHAPTER PAGE
- I. Old Panama, Agamemnon, and The Genial Picaroon 13
- II. The Fighting Whale, and Chinamen in the Chicken Coop 27
- III. Through a Tropical Quarantine 46
- IV. A Forced March Across the Desert Of Atacama 62
- V. Arequipa, the City of Churches 76
- VI. Through the Inca Country 88
- VII. Out of La Paz by Pack Train 103
- VIII. The Back Trail Among the AymarÁs 118
- IX. Over the First Great Pass 131
- X. The Toll Gate and Mapiri 145
- XI. Waiting for the Leccos 159
- XII. Off on the Long Drift 172
- XIII. The Lecco Tribe 184
- XIV. Drifting Down the Rio Mapiri 200
- XV. Shooting the Ratama 214
- XVI. Opening up the Jungle 224
- XVII. Twenty-Three Days Against the Current 238
- XVIII. By Pack Mule Through the Jungle 252
- XIX. The Indian Uprising 266
- XX. Ambushed by Ladrones 280
- XXI. The Music of the AymarÁs 289
- XXII. Back Home 299
- XXIII. Off Across the Continent in a Batalon 309
- XXIV. Through the Rubber Country 321
- XXV. A New Crew and Another Batalon 337
- XXVI. The Falls of the Madeira and Home 350
ILLUSTRATIONS - Running the Rapids of the Ratama Frontispiece
- PAGE
- Announced that a person, a somebody, was awaiting me below 13
- Pointed scornfully to the outside 15
- Agamemnon 18
- Those who refused to pay were thrown into the chicken coop 35
- When the end lid was taken off the bodies of eight dead Chinamen were taken out 37
- A deserted brigantine at anchor dipped slowly with the long Pacific swells 42
- What the diplomat said was direct and voluble 49
- A wide dusty canal which in the intervals between showers serves as a market (facingpage)50
- Close resemblance to an army of drunken bugs 52
- Every day our winches whirred and clattered off some dusty, sand-blown port (facingpage)54
- Lima, a delightful city of contrasts 58
- An Arequipa carrier 78
- In Arequipa, the city of churches (facingpage)80
- Hardly a day without its Saint’s fiesta 83
- An Andean touring car 85
- In Pizarro’s day it was probably the same—costume, craft, and barter (facingpage)100
- Haggled with arrieros over pack mules 104
- Prisoners along the trail up from La Paz (facingpage)106
- AymarÁ driver of pack llamas 111
- Members of a gang of prisoners 112
- The guard for the road menders 114
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