  decorated horizontal rule
PAGE American Index, Piano Card-stamping machines for, 86 Analysis, the art of resolving a machine, fabric, or substance of any kind, into its constituent parts. Arrangement of hooks, needles, griffe-bars, springs, spring-frame and needle-board in the single-lift Jacquard machine, 14 Backing, the filling of the lower fabric in a double cloth. Batten, the frame which carries the cylinder in its motion to and from the needle-board, 15 Batten Motion, 15 Binder-warp, the warp-threads producing the foundation of a fabric; interior warp; this warp is generally not visible in the finished fabric. Used in astrakhans, velvets, plushes, Brussels carpets, upholstery fabrics, etc. Bobbin. The filling is wound on the bobbin, and the latter placed in the shuttle. Bonchon, M., the inventor of the principle of the Jacquard machine, 7 Border, the outer part of a fabric. Brush, as required for perfect work, 107 Camel Hair is the hair of certain camels, and is used either combed or carded. Card-guide, used in the Piano Card-stamping machine, 90 Card-rack, 19 Card-wire, 19 Carriage, technical name for a part of the Piano Card-stamping machine, 88 ---- Technical name for a part of the Repeating machine, 93, 96 Cashmere, or Kashmere wool, is the fine hair of the Cashmere goat, which thrives upon the Himalaya mountains and surrounding country, in Asia. Cashmere is also used to indicate certain fabrics made of wool or silk warp and goat hair, or fine merino wool filling. Catch, a part of the Carriage in the Piano machine, 88 Catches, a part of the Jacquard machine, 13 Centre Tie-up or Point Tie-up, 33 Colors used for painting textile designs, 107 Comber-board, (Cumber-board and Compart-board are also technical terms frequently used for it); a perforated board which guides and keeps the harness-cords in the required positions. Lately, wires crossing each other and adjusted in a frame are used with advantage; this latter style is patented by The G. W. Stafford Manufacturing Co., Providence, R. I., 20, 130 ---- Made in strips and adjusted in a frame, 21 ---- Made of a solid piece of material, 20 Combination Tie-up in two sections, 56 Compound Harness. Designs for fabrics executed on a Jacquard loom with Compound Harness attached, 116 ---- General arrangement and application, 58 ---- Number to use of, 63 ---- Positions during weaving,63 ---- Their operation by a separate machine,62 ---- Weaves for working,63 Cotton is the white, downy, fibrous substance which envelopes the seeds of various species of the cotton plant, gossypium, belonging to the natural order malvaceÆ. ---- The size of the yarn when spun is calculated by numbers, commencing with No. 1, which requires 840 yards to 16 ounces; every successive number requiring 840 yards additional for the original 16 ounces. Cow Hair, mixed with a suitable fibre like wool, is spun into the filling for coarse ingrain carpets, and similar coarse fabrics, as backing-filling for cloakings, etc. Cylinder, a part of the Jacquard machine,7, 9, 16 Damask, a fabric originally made at Damascus, and composed of rich silk. The name is at present applied to various textile fabrics composed of cotton, linen, etc., which are of common household use, as table-covers, towels, etc. Designing Paper for the different textile fabrics,103 Divisions of a comber-board,22 Dobby Card-punching Machine,86 Double Cloth, selection of designing paper for,106 ---- Two separate fabrics fastened together in the process of weaving. The advantages of double cloth are various, amongst which we find: To produce a heavier and thicker cloth; using materials to their best advantage; producing effects impossible to be procured in single cloth, etc. There are three divisions of double cloth:— Double-lift Double-cylinder Jacquard Machine, principle of construction, advantages over the single-lift, and method of operation,69 Double-lift Single-cylinder Jacquard Machine, principle of construction, advantages over the single-lift, and method of operation,67 Doup, an arrangement used in the manufacture of gauze fabrics which compels certain warp-threads to cross each other,64-66 Drawing-in Draft, method to be observed in drawing-in a warp in the eyes of the heddle. End, the technical word for a thread which is used often in its place. Expert in Card-stamping, how to become,86, 88 Extra Fine, a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with 832 threads warp, (36 inch wide fabric), exclusive of the selvedge,74 Extra Super, a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with 1072 threads in warp, (36 inch wide fabric), exclusive of the selvedge,75 Extra Warp, designs figured with,117 Fabric, the structure of anything; the manner in which the parts of anything are united by art and labor; workmanship, texture, make, etc. ---- Manufactured cloth of any kind or material. Fabrics for which the Jacquard machine must be used,9 Falcon, M., the inventor of the cylinder and the Jacquard cards,7 Feed Cylinder, a part of the Repeating machine,96 Filling, the threads running crosswise in a cloth. Flax. This term is used to designate the flax or linen fibre, and also the plant from which it is obtained. Frame, a part of the Jacquard machine,11 French Index, Piano Card-stamping machines for,86 Gauze Fabrics, their peculiar characteristic construction,64 ---- Threading of the harness for,64-66 ---- Tying-up for,64 Griffe, a part of the Jacquard machine; also called Knife Box,7, 9, 10, 13 Griffe-bars, a part of the Jacquard machine; also called Knives,9, 10 Guide-board, used for regulating the height of the mails by tying-up a Jacquard harness,23 Guiding-rod. See Jacquard Plunger. Hammer, a part of the Jacquard machine,16 Harness cords, the cords of each leash,9 Heavy Square, its practical points of use on designing paper,105 Heddle and Harness-cord, combining,23 Heddles, as required for compound harness,62 ---- For the Jacquard harness,9, 22 Hook, a part of the Jacquard machine,9, 10, 13 Index Machines. See Dobbies. Ingrain, as applied to carpets, was originally intended for a fabric where the wool was colored before carding and spinning, but which is not true at present, as the yarn is mostly manufactured before coloring. The great variety of colors used in an ingrain carpet at the present time, the constant changing of styles, besides the saving of expense by coloring the yarn after manufacture, are the general reasons for it. Ingrain carpet in our country means the same as Scottish or Kidderminster in Europe. Ingrain Carpet, two-ply, construction of the fabric,72 ---- Two-ply, designs for,116 ---- Two-ply, Jacquard Machine,71 ---- Two-ply, selection of designing paper,106 ---- Two-ply, tying-up of its Jacquard harness,72 Ingrain Carpet Loom, two-ply, built with a stationary shuttle-raceway and an independent comb for beating up the filling,82 ---- Two-ply, in which the journals are lifted from above by means of a cam arrangement,81 ---- Two-ply, in which the journals are lifted from below and controlled by either a chain or cam motion,81, 82 Jacquard Cards, general arrangement and application,7, 9, 17, 18 ---- Preparing of,85 Jacquard Designing, practical hints,103 Jacquard Harness, general arrangement and application,20 Jacquard, Joseph Marie, life of,7, 8 Jacquard Loom, a loom furnished with the Jacquard arrangement. Journals, peculiarly constructed harness frames used in the manufacture of two-ply ingrain carpets,75 Jute is a native plant of China and the East Indies; its long fibre, which is of a brown to silver gray color, is used largely in the manufacture of Brussels and tapestry carpets, rugs, etc., for the body—ground structure of the fabric. It is distinguished from flax by being colored yellow under the influence of sulphuric acid and iodine solution. The size of the thread when spun is indicated by the same rule as wool—Cut system—300 yards to 16 ounces. Keys, as used in the Piano Card-stamping machine,86 Keys, as used in the Repeating machine,93 Key Wire, used in the Repeating machine,95 Lace-hole Press,96 Lacing of Jacquard cards,97 Lacing Frame,97 Lacing Machines, using two needles for lacing each series of holes,98 ---- Using one needle and one shuttle for lacing each series of holes,100 Lacing Needles,100 Lacing Twine, the kind to use for machine lacing,100 Lantern, an iron extension put on the cylinder of the Jacquard machine. The cylinder is turned by means of the catches working on the lantern,16 Leaf, a harness; thus: 3-leaf twill or 3-harness twill, etc. Lease, or leas. Leasing of the Jacquard harness,23 Leash, two or more harness-cords combined and adjusted to one neck-cord. For every harness-cord a leash contains there will be found a repeat in the design to correspond,9 Lifter-boards, or Trap-boards, used in the Jacquard machine for two-ply ingrain carpet,71 Lingo, a small iron weight for each harness-cord,9, 22, 23 Loom Pickers are generally made of raw hide; less frequently of sole leather or wood. The picker stick, which is operated by means of cams or arms on the loom, drives the picker, and the latter the shuttle. Loop-guide, a part of the lacing machine,99 Mail, made of metal, forms the centre part of a twine heddle; in the eye of the mail the warp-thread is drawn,22, 23 ---- Its position in the loom,23 Margin, plain part between border and selvedge, or centre and border in a damask table-cover, etc. Mate Threads, technical name used in two-ply ingrain carpets; one ground-thread and its corresponding figure-thread,72-80 Merino, originally the wool of the Spanish Merino sheep, and known as some of the finest wool. Colonial wools, as Australia, Cape of Good Hope, New Zealand, bear the character of the Merino, derived through introducing and breeding the original stock in those countries. Modifications of the single-lift Jacquard machine,67 Mohair, the fleece of the Angora goat. It is largely used in the manufacture of light-weight dress goods, which are characterized by their lustre. In pile fabrics, as plushes, velvets, astrakhans, etc., of a plain or figured denomination, mohair is often used for the “pile-warp,” whereas the ground or body of the fabric is made of cotton. Neck-cord, the cord combining leash and hook,9 Needle, a part of the Jacquard machine,9, 10, 14 Needle-board, a part of the Jacquard machine,17 Open Harness, tie-up,23 Outlining in Squares, methods and rules for,113-115 Pattern-cylinder, a part of the Repeating machine,94-96 Perforated Bottom-board, a part of the Jacquard machine; through this board the neck-cords are passed, combining the hooks to the leash,12 Petty-point Tie-up,51 Piano Card-stamping Machine, operated by belt power,91 ---- Operated by foot power,86 Pick, one filling thread; one passage of the shuttle through the shed. Pile Fabrics can have the pile produced either by the warp or the filling. If the pile has to be produced by the warp, a certain number of warp-threads are raised on certain picks over wires. These elevated threads are interwoven in the pick preceding the interweaving of the wire, and also in the pick following it, with a filling-thread to the ground cloth. After a certain number of wires have been inserted, the first interwoven wire is drawn out of the fabric to be used over, which operation is repeated in rotation with every wire. We find terry and velvet piles. If the pile is produced by the filling, some or all filling-threads must float in certain places to allow the thread to be cut at this place, or its fibres to be raised during the process of finishing the fabric,53, 118 ---- Designs for,118 Plain-weave, also known as cotton-weave; in this weave, warp and filling cross each other at right angles, and interweave alternately. Frequently used for ground-weave in Jacquard designs. Point Tie-up or Centre Tie-up,33 Point Tie-up, for two-ply ingrain carpets,78 Point Tie-up in three Sections,55 Preserving of designs executed on ? paper,107 Presser, a part of the Lacing machine,99 Punch, as used in the Piano Card-stamping machine,86 ---- As used in the Repeating machine,93 Punch-head, a part of the Piano machine,86 ---- A part of the Repeating machine,93 Rack, a part of the Piano Card-stamping machine,88 Reed, a series of narrow strips of metal, between which the warp-threads pass in the loom. The purpose of the reed is to keep the warp evenly divided, also to strike the filling in many places at the beating the reed towards the breast-beam of the loom. The reed is known by numbers, the number in each case indicating how many splits are in one inch. Rule for ascertaining the reed number, if the number of ends in the warp and the width in the reed are known; the threads per dent either given or to be selected according to the fabric:—Divide the number of ends in the warp by the width in the reed, which gives the number of threads per inch; divide this result again by the number of threads in one dent, according to the weave or rows deep of comber-board. Whole numbers or half numbers are generally used for grading reeds only. Reel, or Idler, a part of the Repeating machine,93 Repeat, that which is to be repeated; as the repeat of a pattern, the repeat of an effect in a design, etc. Repeating Machine, for Jacquard cards,92 Reserve Rows. Nearly every Jacquard machine contains two extra rows of needles in addition to the number as classified,10 Satin-weaves are characterized by a smooth face. The stitch of the threads is opposite to that of the twill weaves. The foundations for designing a satin-weave are, in the first place, to arrange as much as possible distributed stitching; in the second, to have this as regular as possible. The satin-weaves commence with the five-harness, and can after this be made on any number of harness. To find the run of stitching in the easiest way, use the following rule: Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal, nor the one a multiple of the other. Afterwards take one result and add it, commencing to count from 1 until all threads or harnesses are taken up, as example: Five harness—5 = 2 + 3. Commencing with one and adding two points, we have as follows: 1 + 2 = 3 + 2 = 5 + 2 = 7, or 2 + 2 = 4. This will give the stitch as: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, which means: the first pick stitches in the first warp-thread, the second pick stitches in the third warp-thread, the third pick stitches in the fifth warp-thread, the fourth pick stitches in the second warp-thread, the fifth pick stitches in the fourth warp-thread. ---- Are frequently employed for ground-weaves in Jacquard designs. Section of the comber-board, dividing the comber-board in its depth. Sectional Harness Arrangement,26 Selecting Needle, used in the Repeating machine,94 Selvedge, the edge of cloth, woven in such a manner as to prevent ravelling, and often closed by complicating the threads; also called List, Listing. Setting of Figures in a sketch,108 Setting of the Cylinder,18 Shading of textile fabrics by the weave,118 ---- Rules for,119 Shed, the separation of the warp to allow the shuttle to pass through. Shot-about, the alternate exchange (filling ways) of figure up and ground up in two-ply ingrain carpet,72, 117 Shuttles are the means for carrying the filling into and through the shed. Shuttle-box Mechanism, for carpet hand-looms,80 Shuttle-raceway, the part of the lay on which the shuttle travels to and fro. Silk consists of the pale yellow, buff colored, or white fibre, which the silk worm spins around about itself when entering the pupa or chrysalis state. Spun Silks are calculated as to size of the thread on the same basis as cotton. The adopted custom of specifying the size of raw silk is by giving the weight of 1000 yards in drams, avoirdupois. Single Cloth, selection of designing paper,105 Single-lift Jacquard Machine. By it warp-threads, as called for, according to the Jacquard cards, are raised and lowered each pick. Sizes of Jacquard Machines,10 Sketches, enlarging and reducing figures for,110 Sketch, principles for,108 ---- Size required,109 ---- Transferring to the ? designing paper,112, 115 Skipper, technical name for a part of the Piano Card-stamping machine,88 Spools. This technical term applies to a barrel, having a head on each end. Spring Frame, a part of the Jacquard machine,14 Springs, as used in connection with the needles in the Jacquard machine,9, 10, 15 Squaring-off, a process employed for enlarging and reducing figures in sketches,110 ---- A process employed in the construction of original sketches,111 ---- A process employed in transferring the sketch to the ? designing paper,112, 115 Straight-through Tie-up. The Jacquard harness threaded on the machine in the direction from front to rear,23 ---- The Jacquard harness threaded on the machine in the direction from rear to front,26 ---- On the English system,28 ---- For repeating effects in one repeat of the design,29 ---- For two-ply ingrain carpets,74 ---- In four sections,57 ---- In three sections,53 ---- In two sections (for double cloth),48, 50, 51 ---- Of a Jacquard harness, having front harness attached,32 ---- Single and double sections combined,51 Straight-through Tie-up and Point Tie-up, combined,35, 39, 42, 43, 46 ---- Applied to a double-lift double-cylinder Jacquard machine,70 Stop Motions, for looms, are attachments for stopping the loom when the filling breaks or runs out. The Protector, an additional attachment to the loom, might also be classified as a stop motion, as it stops the loom in case the shuttle fails to reach its box. Super, a two-ply ingrain carpet constructed with 960 threads warp (36 inch wide fabric), exclusive of the selvedge,76 Tail-cords, the substitutes of the regular hooks used in the ingrain carpet machine,71 Temples, attachments to the loom on each side of the selvedge, for holding the last woven part of the fabric in even width, with the width of the fabric in its reed, thus preventing as much useless chafing of the warp as possible. Terry, a loop; an uncut pile fabric. Textile, a woven fabric. Texture, changing, for fabrics using a Jacquard harness threaded in the solid comber-board,21 ---- Number of warp and filling-ends in one inch; there are two textures: Twills are frequently employed as ground-weaves for Jacquard designs. ---- A weave running diagonally across the fabric. They are divided into even-sided, uneven-sided, broken, and fancy twills. Twist. The amount and the direction of the twist in yarns of any kind of material is very important; thus it should never be overlooked in the preparation of a design for textile fabrics. Tying-up of Jacquard Looms, with compound harness attached,58 Vaucanson, the inventor of the griffe,7 Velvet, a cut pile fabric. Warp, the threads running lengthwise in a cloth; the yarn which passes through the Jacquard harness and the reed. Weave, the way the two systems of threads (warp and filling), composed of any kind of material, are interlaced. Whip-thread. See Douping Warp. Witches. See Dobbies. Wool. By the term wool we comprehend the hairy covering of several species of mamalia, more especially that of the sheep. It is more flexible, elastic and curly than hair. Wool as used for warp and filling is either combed or carded, technically known as worsted or wool-spun yarn. The size of the thread for worsted is calculated by 560 yards to 16 ounces for No. 1, and the same number of yards is added for each successive number balanced by the original 16 ounces. For woolen yarn two methods of calculating the size are in use: The Cut system, having 300 yards to one cut (16 ounces); the Run system, having 1600 yards to one run (16 ounces). The same number of yards are added to each successive number of cut or run, also to be balanced by the original 16 ounces. The Bridesburg Manuf’g Co. The Bridesburg Manuf’g Co. Textile Machinery Builders, 201-203 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. Stockton Bates, President. Wm. D. Shubert, Secretary. Roller, Goodyear, and Witch Harness, Sheeting, Duck, Bag, Clipper, Gebhart, Ticking, and all kinds arranged for jacquard tops. Wool and Worsted Cards, Pickers, Renovators, Mules. Shoddy and Hair Pickers. Foss & Pevey,—Wellman,—and Iron Roller Cards. Drawing,—Railway Heads,—Spinning Frames, Reels,—Mill Warpers,—Spoolers. Plans for all kinds of Mills made. JAS. H. BILLINGTON & CO. Jas. H. Billington & co., established 1848. manufacturers’ supplies of every description, for cotton, woolen, silk, and worsted machinery. manufacturers of bobbins, spools, shuttles,and skewers, oak leather belting, machine cards, and specialties. general mill furnishers. no. 113 Chestnut street, Philadelphia, pa. correspondence solicited. BARBOUR’S IRISH FLAX THREAD Barbour’s Irish Flax Thread, 1784–1887 Barbour’s Jacquard Harness Thread, Noted for Strength and Smoothness, and Warranted not to Stretch. The Barbour Brothers Company, New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, and San Francisco. Bonaker & Jones. Bonaker & Jones. Manufacturers of Design Paper For Carpet & Upholstery. Designers; 58 N 4th St. Philadelphia. Represented by Vincent T. Rafferty. Having the experience and facilities for making Design Papers in all sizes, we are enabled to supply manufacturers with the best at the lowest rates. Special sizes made to order. Will be pleased to give you prices for any quantity or size you may need. Jacquard Machines Jacquard Machines (Single and Double Action) Of Improved Construction. We give great attention to the workmanship, use only the best materials, and produce The Best Machine in the Market. Our prices compare favorably with those more cheaply built. We furnish machines constructed on the English plan—leaving out bottom board and glass rods—when desired. Geo. W. Stafford Mfg. Co., Nos. 3 and 5 Point Street, Providence, R. I., Machine Builders. Single and Double Action Jacquards, Single and Double Action Dobbies, The only Double Action Open Shed Positive Dobbie, Equalizing Spring Jacks, Cottrell’s Positive Let-off Motion, etc., etc. Sketches and Designs furnished and Cards Cut. Mail Eyes, Twine, Lingoes, Wires, Springs, etc., furnished. Leno Weaving—both simple and compound—a specialty. (Patented September 6, 1887.) This Comber-board can be seen at the Textile School, 1336 Spring Garden Street, Philadelphia. The Textile Record The Textile Record, 425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. The Foremost Textile Journal of the United States. Covering every Department of Textile Manufacture. Weaving and Jacquard Work Fully Discussed. Each Number filled with Original and Practical Articles. The largest staff of Expert Contributors. The Textile Record has positive practical value to every mill owner and mill worker. Its contributions to the literature of the textile industry surpass in value and interest everything yet attempted on this side of the Atlantic. Richly Illustrated in Each Number. Sample Copies on Application to The Textile Record, No. 425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, PA. ROYLE’S ROYLE’S M. A. FURBUSH & SON MACHINE CO. New High-speed Power Loom For Ingrain Carpets. Built by the M. a. Furbush & Son Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. One Hundred Picks per Minute. Fifteen Shuttles Pick and Pick. M. A. FURBUSH & SON MACHINE CO. New High-speed Power Loom For Ingrain Carpets. Built by The M. a. Furbush & Son Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. One Hundred Picks Per Minute. Fifteen Shuttles Pick and Pick. This Loom combines the best features of the Duckworth and Murkland Looms; while possessing the shading capacity of the latter, it is easier in its operation, and of a considerably higher speed than either. The following points as to the construction and operation of this Loom will prove to any manufacturer, superintendent, fixer or weaver the superiority of the same over any other style: Runs light.There is no heavy lay to operate, as in other looms. The lay (raceway and boxes) are stationary, and the filling is beaten up by means of a comb, which is the only part that swings; being light, it can easily accomplish the movements necessary for the one hundred picks per minute, which could never be attained by operating the lay as in any other loom. No tearing of cloth By the Shuttle Catching in the Warp and Being Drawn Up by the Reed, as the comb for beating up the filling passes in front of the shuttle. Easy on filling. The peculiar shape of the filling fork allows the shuttle to pass under it, at the same time merely opening wide enough to admit the filling. The motion is easy and delicate, and will not break the poorest filling—a great point of superiority over all other high-speed looms, in which there is always more or less tendency to chop the filling. Shuttle boxes. The box mechanism is the same as in the Murkland Loom, there being a revolver of seven boxes and three upright boxes, thus giving ten boxes on each side, or twenty in all. The Jacquard machine is constructed principally as in the Duckworth Loom, although the cylinder gauge, boards and journals are like those of the Murkland. The cylinder is worked with the rock shaft of the Duckworth Loom, instead of a cam shaft. The change gears For Take-up, instead of being worm gears, are ratchet; but the number of teeth to number of picks is the same as in the Murkland. Power back-off. The Loom has a power back-off, as in the Duckworth, a pressure of the foot being sufficient to reverse the Loom. Separate cams are provided for each arrangement of boxes, instead of segment cams as in the Murkland Loom. The Loom is pick and pick. Journals are operated from below by cams and treadles. The new Loom covers all the features demanded in a perfect Ingrain Carpet Loom, including ability to make all the new weaves. Loom Picker Co. Loom Picker Co. Biddeford, Maine, Manufacturers of Raw Hide and Leather Loom Pickers and Strapping,Including many varieties of Raw Hide Pickers never before made in this country, such as Scoops, Centre Scoops, Pressed Centres, Feathered Feet Bows, XL Bows, All of which are a superior substitute for the ordinary Bow Picker. Sole Manufacturers of the Parker Patent Drop Box Picker, Which is so constructed that the blow is against the edge of the hide forming the body of the Picker. These Pickers have no plug in the Shuttle Strike to be driven out or worked loose, and they are guaranteed not to break at the head. Also, Manufacturers of Loom Harnesses of Superior Quality. All Harnesses are made of the very best quality of twine and stock, and are carefully finished. They are guaranteed to possess all the requirements of a superior article. An Illustrated Catalogue giving a detailed description of our goods will be mailed on application. CHAS. ASHOFF Chas. Ashoff,manufacturer of Reeds and Heddles, And Dealer in Manufacturers’ Supplies, Nos. 191 and 193 Berks Street, Philadelphia, PA. W. P. Uhlinger Patent Jacquard Machines Applied to any Style or Make of Power Looms, for any Kind of Figured Goods. Single Lifts, Double Lifts, Raise and Drop Jacquards, Witch Motions (Dobby Machines), Single and Double-lift Heddle Machines. Jacquard Card-stamping Machines. Piano Steam-Power Card-Stamping Machine,For Jacquard Cards. The speed is completely at the will of the operator, and will punch as high as 170 strokes per minute. The capacity is about double that of a foot-power machine. Two cards can be stamped at once. Dobby Card-Punching Machine. This machine is built for punching Jacquard or Dobby Cards of the strongest pasteboard, punching the whole card at one revolution or stroke. After the keys are set, any number of duplicates can be punched. It is well constructed, simple, and a most effective machine. Piano Foot-Treading Card-Stamping Machine. I have lately reconstructed this machine, making it more compact by a novel and durable escapement of the rack. Jacquard Card-Lacing Machine. The only successful machine ever introduced for this purpose. Far superior to hand lacing for regularity and durability. Light-running, simple and durable. Can be operated by a small girl or boy. Will lace 800 to 2000 cards per hour. Thoroughly and satisfactorily tested. Weighs about 500 pounds. Machines now in operation and ready for the inspection of manufacturers. Machines placed on trial with responsible parties. W. P. Uhlinger, Nos. 14 to 36 Canal Street, Philadelphia, Pa. (Take red car on Third Street to Frankford Avenue and Canal Street.) Knowles’ New Ingrain Power Carpet Loom. Knowles’ New Ingrain Power Carpet Loom. Designed to meet a want long felt in the manufacture of Ingrain Carpets, for a loom that should be simple in its construction, easy of operation, positive in its motions, and could be run at a high rate of speed. The Knowles Loom Works take pleasure in calling the attention of carpet manufacturers to their new Ingrain Carpet Loom, as one in which all the above features are combined in such a manner as to make a loom that meets the requirements mentioned above, and one that will be highly appreciated by manufacturers of those goods for which the loom is designed. The following are among the important features: The journals on the loom are controlled by a cam motion, or by the same efficient chain motion that is used on our Worsted Loom instead of the cam motion, handling the warp with the greatest ease and calling either journal at will, which cannot be done on other carpet looms, thus giving a wider range of pattern and design than on other looms; and should it be necessary to change the shading, it can be done by changing the chain, instead of cutting out the warp and re-drawing it. The box mechanism is positive, and controlled by a chain on the same shaft as the journals, and may be used with the chain alone, or with the chain in combination with the cards. The motion can be run forward or reversed at will, and any box called as desired, thus giving a wide range to the shading facilities of the loom, and any combination of colors can be produced on this loom that can be done on any 4 × 4 box loom in the world. The Jacquard is of our own manufacture, and of the most improved pattern. Great care is used in its construction, thus making it a very efficient part of the loom, and is driven from the same shaft as the journals and box motion, thus working in harmony with them. The take-up motion is positive, and is very substantial and accurate, consisting of fluted rolls, and operated by the usual train of gearing, while the goods are wound up on a roll below. The let-off is controlled by the tension of the warp over a rocking whip roll, operated by a cam on the bottom shaft, held by a clamp friction, geared to the head of the beam. Two filling motions are used, one at each end of the lay, each working independently of the other, inside the selvedge, so that the breakage of the weft is instantly detected, and these motions are so combined with friction pulley and brake, that the loom is stopped instantly “on the pick,” and consequently, when filling is replaced, the loom is ready to start without loss of time in finding the pick, or setting of Jacquard or box motion. The shuttle-smash protector, which knocks off the loom when the shuttle does not box properly, thus preventing what are known as “shuttle smashes;” a shuttle check, for easing the force of the shuttle as it enters the box; a foot lever, for throwing the lay back when the loom is stopped, making it very easy for the weaver, and the speed at which the loom can be run, together with the features mentioned above, combine to make this loom the best in the market for the purpose for which it is designed. Correspondence solicited and circulars sent on application. Knowles Loom Works, No. 57 Jackson Street, Worcester, Mass. Schaum & Uhlinger Schaum & Uhlinger, 1030-1038 New Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. Manufacturers of Ribbon, Tape and Webbing Looms, Latest Improvements. New Patterns. Lathes Or Battons, For Ribbons, Fringes, Tapes, Suspender and Goring Web, &c. We construct our Lathes on correct mechanical principles, use only the best materials, and produce The Best Lathe In the Market. Write to us for estimates: it will pay you. Jacquard Machines, With any desired number of hooks. Applied to any manufacture of loom. Harness Tied up for all Figured Weaving. A Full Line of Weavers’ Supplies: Mails, Lingoes, Heddles, Harness Twine, Compart-Boards, Glass Rings, Shuttle Eyes, &c. If you contemplate manufacturing Figured Goods, write to us for information, or send us samples of the goods you desire to make, and we will furnish you estimates for a complete equipment, including Jacquard Machines, with harness tied-up, designs made, cards cut, &c. Fifteen years’ practical experience in this line of business enables us to give our customers the Best Results with the Least Expense. Schaum & Uhlinger, 1030-1038 New Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. TEXTILE SCHOOL OF THE Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art, Classrooms: {No. 1336 Spring Garden Street, {S. E. Cor. Broad & Spring Garden Sts. THE LEADING TEXTILE SCHOOL IN AMERICA. Founded in co-operation with the Trustees of the Penna. Museum and School of Industrial Art, WM. PLATT PEPPER, President, by the following members of the Philadelphia Textile Association: Thomas Dolan & Co., Extract from COURSE OF STUDY for Day Class, requiring three years’ attendance at School. FIRST YEAR’S COURSE. The hand-loom, analyzed and explained. Elementary principles of “dressing” warps; beaming the same; fixing of harness; drawing-in; reed and reed calculations, etc., for single cloth. A general study of the nature of materials used in weaving textile fabrics; explanation of the necessary materials and instruments used by designers. Weaves.—Ground or Foundation Weaves. I. Plain, or cotton weave, and fancy figuring through color arrangements in warp and filling, for light-weight fabrics. II. Twill weaves—a, one-sided twills; b, even-sided twills; and fancy figuring with same through color arrangements in warp and filling. III. Satin weaves—a, single satins; b, double satins; c, figuring in single satins. Drafting Weaves. Lectures, with practical examples and rules observed. Derivative Weaves. Basket, rib, and granite weaves; steep, curved, broken, skip, corkscrew, and fancy twills; pointed twills and honeycomb weaves; pique weaves, and combinations of miscellaneous weaves. Standard sizes of cotton wool and worsted yarns, with calculations. Picking out samples of textile fabrics constructed on single weaves, with methods and rules employed in duplication. Original weaves for single cloth; complete orders for manufacturing. Instrumental drawing in elementary exercises, with instruments; construction of plane figures; line shading, etc. Freehand drawing; enlargement and reduction of designs; analysis of plants for the purpose of design for textile fabrics. Work in color; lectures on color harmony. SECOND YEAR’S COURSE. The power-looms analyzed and explained, and practical weaving and fixing; a, the Thos. Wood roller loom, for ginghams, shirtings, cottonades, dress goods, etc.; b, the Crompton loom, and c, the Knowles loom, for worsted and woolen fabrics of every description; single and double beam work. Double Cloths—Study of the best methods of combining different weaves, as: Designs backed with weft; designs backed with warp; designs backed with warp and weft; designs for double cloth, double faced. Calculation: ascertaining the cost, production, etc., of the different fabrics. Analyses of single cloth (fancy), and double cloth fabrics, and reproduction with various changes, as requested. The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained; principles of construction and method of operation of the single lift machine; the various modifications, such as double lift single cylinder, double lift double cylinder; “laying out” of comber-boards, and figuring for various changes in texture; tying-up of harness for single cloth. The Bridesburg Clipper Loom analyzed and explained, and practical work on it, with special reference to its use in connection with the double lift double cylinder Jacquard machine for damask table-covers, etc. Card-stamping machines (French index) analyzed and explained, and actual work for single cloth on the machine; explanation of, and practical work in card-lacing. Theoretical work; designing paper with reference to the different textures of single cloth fabrics. Sketching of designs for single cloth, and transferring sketch to the ? designing paper. Shading of fabrics by the weave. Analysis of Jacquard work for actual reproduction; also for reproduction with various (given) changes. Study of special fabrics, such as dress trimmings, fringes, etc. Study of processes for textile fabrics before and after weaving. Instrumental drawing in lettering; drawing plans for machinery, rooms, mill buildings, etc. Illustrating processes of weaving. Illustrating sectional cuts of textile fabrics, etc. Freehand drawing; sketching for the different textile fabrics on Jacquard work. Work in color; lectures (advanced course); practice in the use of color. Chemistry. Theory of Chemistry applicable to the textile art. THIRD YEAR’S COURSE. The two-ply ingrain carpet machine analyzed and explained. The ingrain carpet hand-loom, and the ingrain carpet power-loom, built by the M. A. Furbush & Son Machine Co., analyzed, explained, and practical work. Card-stamping machine (American index) analyzed, explained, and practical work. Tying-up of Jacquard harness (French index) machines for double cloth; three and four-ply fabrics. Advanced Work for the Harness Loom. Study and practical work of cut pile fabrics—velvets, plushes, etc.; terry pile fabrics, with wires and without wires; terry and velvet pile combined. Astrakans, cut, uncut, also cut and uncut combined. Chenille, rugs, curtains, etc. Gauze fabrics, plain, figured, and combined with other weaves. Designing for upholstery fabrics, Jacquard gauze, Brussels carpet, tapestry carpet, double face Brussels carpet, etc. Card-stamping on the French index stamping machine for two, three, and four-ply fabrics. Instrumental and freehand drawing similar to second year’s course, but for more difficult objects in textile fabrics and machinery. Work in color; application of theory of harmony to dyeing. Chemistry. Theory and practice of chemistry, including actual work in the laboratory and dyeing of fabrics. T. C. SEARCH, Chairman Committee on Instruction of the School, and Pres. Phila. Textile Association. The Circular of the Committee on Instruction will be mailed upon application. PRESS COMMENTS. A Model School of Industrial Art. We cannot, at this time, speak of its provisions by which drawing, modeling, designing, etc., are taught; but we desire to call particular attention to the facilities that are offered for a practical instruction in weaving and textile design. Special courses are provided for teaching designing for all varieties of textile fabrics, and its practical application to loom work. As a complete course in its theoretical and practical utility we do not hesitate to say it is without an equal in America. A school of this kind is of the highest importance to the manufacturing community that centres about Philadelphia.—Boston Journal of Commerce. An American Textile School. The Textile Department of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art clearly fulfils the requirements of a good Textile School, and the promise is that it will speedily become one of the best in the world, as it is now decidedly the most advanced in this country. Pupils are taught designing for all varieties of textile fabrics, and to make them thoroughly familiar with loom work, so that they may be able not only to prepare their own designs, but also to reproduce their own patterns in the cloth. This institution, by fitting young Americans for exact scientific work in the textile industries, will confer a huge benefit upon them and upon the nation.—The Textile Record of America. The Textile Department of the School of Industrial Art, 1336 Spring Garden St. Many scholars who have been at this school in former years are now filling responsible and profitable positions.—The Bulletin, Phila. Thomas Wood & Co. Thomas Wood & Co., Fairmount Machine Works, Twenty-Second and Wood Streets, Philadelphia, Pa. Power Looms. Patent Bobbin Winding Machines. Patent Cop Winding Machines. Improved Presser Beaming Machines. Plain Beaming Machines. Improved Reels for Wool, Worsted, Cotton, Linen, etc. Improved Presser Spoolers. Plain Spoolers. Warp Splitting Machines. Hank Twisting Machines. Warping Mills with Patent Driving Heads and Improved Hecks. Single and Double Warp Sizing Machines. Dyeing Machines for Warp and Piece Goods. Cradle and Cone Indigo Mills. Fulling Mills. Calendering Machines. Self-acting Wool Scouring Machines. Yarn Bundling Presses. Loom Beam Trucks. Shafting, Hangers, Pulleys, etc. Adjustable Self-oiling Bearings. Patent Friction Pulleys. Improved Cut-off Coupling. Patent Couplings. Patent Loose Pulleys. Gearing. Elevators. Plans Made and Factories Completely Equipped with Machinery. Mill and Manufacturers’ Supplies. Sole Philadelphia Agent For Stoddard, Lovering & Co., Transcriber’s notes: In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_, and bold and black letter text by =equals= symbols. Superscripts are represented by ^{} and subscripts by _{} Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired. 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