Impressions of Early Travelers

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"Fort du Quesne, built by the French, formerly stood here; its site has almost disappeared in the Ohio. The remains of Fort Pitt (from whence the town has its name) are very faint; we can yet perceive part of the ditch, its salient angles and bastions, &c., but several houses, stores, and a brewhouse, are built on the ground." Palmer's Journal of travels in the United States and Canada, 1817.

"Although Pittsburg, a few years since, was surrounded by Indians, it is now a curiosity to see any there; a few traders sometimes come down the Alleghany, with seneca oil, &c." Palmer's Journal of travels in the United States, 1818.

"Pittsburgh was hidden from our view, until we descended through the hills within half a mile of the Allegany river. Dark dense smoke was rising from many parts, and a hovering cloud of this vapour, obscuring the prospect, rendered it singularly gloomy. Indeed, it reminded me of the smoking logs of a new field." Thomas's Travels through the western country in 1816.

"A mixture of all nations, though principally Americans; there are Irish, Scotch, English, French, Dutch, Swiss, etc…. The character of the people is that of enterprising and persevering industry; every man to his business is the prevailing maxim, there is therefore little time devoted to amusements or to the cultivation of refined social pleasures. Strangers are not much pleased with the place in point of hospitality merely, but those who have business to transact, will meet with as many facilities as elsewhere. They are of all denominations of the Christian religion; many of them attentive on the duties of their worship, and but few addicted to gross vices and dissipation. Luxury, pomp and parade are scarcely seen; there are perhaps, not more than one or two carriages in the place. There is a public academy, but not in a flourishing state, where the Latin and Greek classics are taught. There are besides, a number of English schools where children are taught to read, write, arithmetic, grammar, etc. There is a seminary for young ladies, which is said to be well conducted. The amusements of these industrious people are not numerous, a few balls during the winter season; there is also a small theatre where a company from the eastern cities sometimes performs. A society has been formed for the purpose of natural improvement in the different departments of natural history, and is flourishing; it has attached to it a circulating library, a cabinet of curiosities and chemical laboratory." Cramer's Navigator, 1817.

"The first buildings of Pittsburg were of logs, some of which were unhewn; then came rude stone structures made from material quarried nearby, and these in turn were followed by brick buildings, for with an abundance of clay and fuel, it was an easy matter to burn brick. In none of them was there any attempt at architectural beauty. Most of them consisted of four square walls, with small windows and doors, thus displaying every evidence of economy. The interior finish of the early houses displayed more taste and beauty than the exterior, for it was easier to carve and fashion in wood than in stone…. Nevertheless there was a beauty in the simplicity of the walls that gradually developed a style which in modern days is called Colonial architecture, and which even yet predominates in Pittsburg." Boucher's Century and a half of Pittsburg.

"In 1815 the buildings of a public character were 'a handsome octagon Episcopal church, a handsome and spacious Presbyterian church, also a Covenanters, German Lutheran and Roman Catholic church, and an Academy, all of brick;' a court house, jail, three incorporated banks, a dramatic theatre, a Masonic hall, three market houses, one in the Diamond and two in Second street. Both the court house and market house in the public square, called the Diamond, were built of brick, and some of the mercantile and financial buildings were of a substantial character." Killikelly's History of Pittsburgh.

"When this city and vicinity was surveyed by the author of this treatise, in October, 1815, there were in Pittsburg 960 dwelling houses, and in the suburbs, villages, and immediate outskirts, about 300 more, making in all 1260, and including inhabitants, workmen in the manufactories, and labourers, upwards of 12,000 inhabitants." Darby's Emigrant's guide, 1818.

"Grant's-hill, an abrupt eminence which projects into the rear of the city, affords one of the most delightful prospects with which I am acquainted; presenting a singular combination of the bustle of the town, with the solitude and sweetness of the country. How many hours have I spent here, in the enjoyment of those exquisite sensations which are awakened by pleasing associations and picturesque scenes! The city lay beneath me, enveloped in smoke—the clang of hammers resounded from its numerous manufactories—the rattling of carriages and the hum of men were heard from its streets—churches, courts, hotels, and markets, and all the 'pomp and circumstance' of busy life, were presented in one panoramic view. Behind me were all the silent soft attractions of rural sweetness—the ground rising gradually for a considerable distance, and exhibiting country seats, surrounded with cultivated fields, gardens, and orchards." Hall's Letters from the West, 1828.

"Pittsburg is a considerable town, generally built of brick…. The site is romantic and delightful. It is well known as a manufacturing place, and once almost supplied the lower country with a variety of the most necessary and important manufactures. But the wealth, business, and glory of this place are fast passing away, transferred to Cincinnati, to Louisville, and other places on the Ohio. Various causes have concurred to this result; but especially the multiplication of steam-boats, and the consequent facility of communication with the Atlantic ports by the Mississippi. There is little prospect of the reverse of this order of things. The national road, terminating at Wheeling, contributes to this decay of Pittsburg." Flint's Recollections of the last ten years, 1826.

"It is laid out in strait streets, forty and fifty feet wide, having foot-walks on each side. Watch-boxes are placed at convenient distances, and the police of the city (except in lighting) is well regulated. From the number of manufactures, and the inhabitants burning coal, the buildings have not that clean appearance so conspicuous in most American towns. The houses are frame and brick, in the principal street three story high.

"Outside of the town, some log houses yet remain. The number of inhabitants in 1810, was 4768; they are supposed to be now near 8000. The manufactures, carried on in the neighbourhood, out of the borough, employ many hundred people. The inhabitants, are Americans, Irish, and English. The Americans are most of them of German and Irish descent. The public buildings are a jail, fort Fayette barracks, a court house, market house, bank, and several churches." Palmer's Journal of travels in the United States, 1818.

"The adjoining hills contain inexhaustible quarries of sand rock, suitable for grindstones; and several establishments, for the manufacture of these useful articles, are extensively conducted. As no marble is brought hither, except from the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, those quarries also supply the citizens with gravestones. Near Breakneck, I noted that mica was contained in the sand rock and this singular addition is also found here, in all the strata of that stone which I have seen." Thomas's Travels through the western country in 1816.

"6 mo. 14.—Having been detained, day after day longer than we expected, this morning about sunrise, we left Pittsburgh with all the joy of a bird which escapes from its cage.

'From the tumult, and smoke of the city set free,'

we were ferried over the Monongahela, with elated spirits; and I repeated that line in Montgomery, with an emphasis, which it never before seemed to require." Thomas's Travels through the western country in 1816.

"There are a considerable number of free negroes in the city. Whilst here, we saw a funeral attended by these people; sixty or seventy couple, two and two in the manner of the Philadelphians." Palmer's Journal of travels in the United States, 1818.

"The inhabitants of Pittsburg are fond of music; in our evening walks, we were sure to hear performers on the violin, clarionet, flute, and occasionally the piano-forte. Concerts are not unusual. The houses of the principal streets have benches in front, on which the family and neighbours sit and enjoy the placidity of their summer evenings." Palmer's Journal of travels in the United States and Canada, 1817.

"If the inhabitants of Pittsburgh are determined to call that place after some English town, I should propose that, instead of the 'American Birmingham,' it be denominated, with relation of the humidity of its climate, 'the American Manchester;' for I remained at this place several days, during which time the rain never ceased. The smoke is also extreme, giving to the town and its inhabitants a very sombre aspect; but an English medical gentleman who has resided here some years, informs me that there is not a more healthy place in the United States." Fearon's Sketches of America, 1818.

"The streets of Pittsburgh are lighted, and consequently the useful order of watchmen is established. My ears, however, have not become reconciled to their music. It is true, I have been more conversant in forests than in cities, and may not comprehend the advantages of these deep-mouthed tones; but breaking the slumbers of the invalid, and giving timely notice to the thief, form two items of much weight in my view as a set off against them.

Pittsburgh is laid out to front both rivers; but as these do not approach at right angles, the streets intersect each other obliquely.

It is not a well built city. The south-west part is the most compact, but many years must elapse before it will resemble Philadelphia. Wooden buildings, interspersed with those of brick, mar the beauty of its best streets; and as few of these are paved, mud, in showery weather, becomes abundant. A short period, however, will probably terminate this inconvenience." Thomas's Travels through the western country in 1816.

"In October, 1816, a resolution was passed permitting a Mr. Gray to exhibit a panoramic view of the naval engagement on Lake Champlain and the battle of Plattsburg without a license or other tax, owing to 'the patriotic nature and worthy object of the exhibit.' In November, 1816, a committee was appointed to inquire whether it was expedient for the city to possess for public purposes more ground than it then did, and whether it would be expedient at that time to purchase ground upon which to erect buildings. In December a resolution introduced by Mr. Wilkins provided for the appointment of a special committee to make a detailed report upon the condition of the manufactures of Pittsburg, which resolution was adopted; whereupon the following committee was appointed: Benjamin Bakewell, Aquila M. Bolton and James Arthurs…. The city councils at this time also sent agents to Harrisburg and Washington to labor specially in the interests of public roads in the Western country. In 1816 Northern Liberties was laid out by George A. Bayard and James Adams." Wilson's History of Pittsburg.

"The price of property has increased in the most surprising manner within the last ten years; it is now at least ten times as high as it was at that period. There are but few sales of lots in fee simple, the custom is to let on perpetual lease; the price in Market and Wood streets, varies from ten to twenty dollars per foot, and in the other streets from four to eight, and in particular situations still higher. The rents are equally high. In Market, Wood and Water streets, the principal places of business, it is difficult to procure a common room in an upper story, under one hundred dollars per annum; the rent of stores, vary from three to five hundred dollars; there is one warehouse which rents for twelve hundred; the rent of tavern stands, is from five to twelve hundred dollars. The rent of dwelling houses varies much, according to the locality and kind of the tenement; a genteel private family can scarcely obtain a good dwelling under three or four hundred dollars." Cramer's Navigator, 1817.

"Provisions of all kinds bring a high price in this city though the market is fluctuating. Hay, at present is twenty dollars a ton, and oats one dollar per bushel. Butter varies from twenty-five to seventy-five cents per pound. The farmers of this neighbourhood, however, produce neither cheese or pork, that merits a notice. The former of these articles is chiefly obtained from the state of Ohio, and bacon, procured from Kentucky, is now retailed at sixteen or seventeen cents per pound.

Before the late war, this market was distinguished for its cheapness; but with an influx of strangers, induced by the movements of that period, 'war prices' commenced; and though peace has returned—and though many of those new comers have sought their former places of residence,—the encouragements held out to the farmer, suffers no diminution. Indeed, there are great inducements for the industrious to migrate hither. Though the soil is uneven, it is far from being sterile; and exclusive of salubrity of situation, and of durable timber for fences, the coal mines, which pervade almost every hill, constitute treasures of great value.

Farms round this city, at the distance of two or three miles have been lately sold from fifty to one hundred dollars an acre, according to situation." Thomas's Travels through the western country in 1816.

"We remark much difference between the manners of the inhabitants of this country and those of Cayuga. In that place, profane language is rarely heard from any person, who pretends to decency, except in a paroxysm of vexation. Here it is an every day amusement. Crossing the Monongahela, in the ferry-boat, with an intelligent gentleman of polished manners, I was shocked and surprised to hear almost every sentence from his lips interlarded with an oath or an imprecation; yet he was in gay good humour, and, I believe, unconscious of this breach of decorum.

It would be unjust not to express my belief, that honourable exceptions to these censures are numerous; but impiety certainly constitutes a strong characteristic of no inconsiderable part of this people….

I have remarked with regret the impiety of some of these citizens; but we think, that generally, they are entitled to much praise for obliging and courteous behaviour. Civility to strangers, in a high degree, even pervades their factories; and in all those which I have visited, the mean practice of permitting children to ask the spectators for money, appears to be unknown." Thomas's Travels through the western country in 1816.

"Except the gratifying reflection arising from the review of so much plastic industry, Pittsburg is by no means a pleasant city to a stranger. The constant volumes of smoke preserve the atmosphere in a continued cloud of coal dust. In October, 1815, by a reduced calculation, at least 2000 bushels of that fuel was consumed daily, on a space of about two and a quarter square miles. To this is added a scene of activity, that reminds the spectator that he is within a commercial port, though 300 miles from the sea.

Several good inns, and many good taverns, are scattered over the city; but often, from the influx of strangers, ready accommodation is found difficult to procure. Provisions of every kind abound; two markets are held weekly." Darby's Emigrant's guide, 1818.

"The published accounts of this city are so exaggerated and out of all reason, that strangers are usually disappointed on visiting it. This, however, was not my case. I have been in some measure tutored in American gasconade. When I am told that at a particular hotel there is handsome accommodation, I expect that they are one remove from very bad; if 'elegant entertainment,' I anticipate tolerable; if a person is 'a clever man,' that he is not absolutely a fool; and if a manufactory is the 'first in the world,' I expect, and have generally found, about six men and three boys employed." Fearon's Sketches of America, 1818.

"As every blessing has its attendant evil, the stone coal is productive of considerable inconvenience from the smoke which overhangs the town, and descends in fine dust which blackens every object; even snow can scarcely be called white in Pittsburgh. The persons and dress of the inhabitants, in the interior of the houses as well as the exterior, experience its effect. The tall steeple of the court house, was once painted white, but alas! how changed. Yet all this might be prevented by some additional expense on the construction of the chimnies. In the English manufacturing towns, a fine is imposed upon those who do not consume their smoke. Incalculable would be the advantage to this place, could such a regulation be adopted." Cramer's Navigator, 1817.

"Upon the whole, I consider Pittsburgh, in every point of view, to be a very important town; and have no doubt, although its prosperity is now at a stand, and property if not declining, is not increasing in value, that it will gradually advance; and that the time must come when it will be an extensive and very populous city. The present population is 10,000, made up from all nations, and, of course, not free from the vices of each: this indeed is but too apparent upon a very short residence." Fearon's Sketches of America, 1818.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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