The New Theatre

When man is contemplated in the character of a being, who can be successfully addressed by an appeal to the passions and the understanding, the Drama, under proper restrictions, may be rendered serviceable.

I have heard
That guilty creatures, sitting at a play,
Have, by the very cunning of the scene,
Been struck so to the soul, that presently
They have proclaim’d their malefactions.

Shakspeare.

The old building used for the purpose of dramatic performance in this town, is said to have formed part of a royal dwelling of the Princes of Powys Land. Having long been ruinous, it was purchased by Mr. Bennett, the manager, and taken down in 1833. The erection of the present theatre on its site has been an important improvement to the thoroughfare leading to St. John’s Hill and the Quarry, as well as an ornament to the town. It forms a centre and two wings; the lower part consists of a rusticated base, upwards of 100 feet in length, fitted up as shops, with a house for the manager. Above is a continued string-course, from which rises two pilasters in each wing, supporting a frieze and cornice.

The windows are finished with architraves, and the front of the building displays three niches, containing statues of the immortal bard Shakspeare and of the Comic and Tragic Muse, executed in compos by Mr. James Parry, a native of this town.

The interior of the theatre is conveniently arranged: in the centre is a dome, and the ceiling richly decorated with appropriate devices. The building is creditable to the taste of Mr. Bennett, whose spirited undertaking in this public improvement will no doubt be appreciated by the lovers of the drama. The new structure was opened Sept. 8th, 1834, under the patronage of the Mayor.

THE CIRCUS

is a large brick building near the Welsh bridge, in which equestrian performances occasionally take place. It is used on fair days as a butter and cheese market.

THE HORSE RACES

are annually held in the third week of September, and continue for three days. They are generally attended by the rank and fashion of the county, and attract a considerable influx of visitors to the town. The king contributes a plate of one hundred guineas.

THE ASSEMBLY ROOM

was erected in 1777, at the back of the Lion Hotel, and is a commodious and tastefully decorated apartment, where most of the balls are held.

THE SHREWSBURY HUNT

takes place about the middle of November, and brings to the town a respectable number of the nobility and gentry of the county, who pass a week with a president annually chosen from the members, while a fashionable ball gives additional hilarity to the meeting.

ANGLING.

The Severn has long been celebrated for the excellency of its fish—salmon, pike, grayling, trout, perch, and many others. The votaries of the “Gentle Craft,” if not always gratified with excellent sport, or the finny tribe should sometimes not be disposed “to bite,” may find pleasure in the contemplation of the scenery around.

It must however be mentioned, and with regret, that the fishing of the river near the town has of late years been almost ruined by the daring excess of poaching with illegal nets, so as to threaten, as it were, the annihilation of the piscatory race, unless the laws are put in force for their defence. Some of the lesser streams near the town, however, afford a tolerable supply of good trout.

AQUATIC EXCURSIONS.

Much pleasant exercise and amusement is afforded on the Severn during the summer months. Several parties possess boats, and an emulation of skill is frequently excited among the more experienced rowers.

An annual gala is generally given by the young gentlemen of Shrewsbury School in the month of June.

Boats may be hired for the day at a moderate charge, and pic-nic parties take an excursion up the river to the picturesque and woody banks at Shelton, the shady groves near Berwick and the Isle, or downwards to the rural villages of Uffington, Atcham, &c. On a summer’s evening, when all is calm and serene, the sail is truly delightful.

THE SUBURBS OF SHREWSBURY

comprise five separate districts, viz. Coton Hill, Castle Foregate, Frankwell, Abbey Foregate, and Coleham, containing a population equal to that within the walls.

In noticing these, it is purposed to commence where our walk terminated without the walls, viz. the Castle Gates, from whence the Castle Foregate and Coton Hill diverge. Taking the latter thoroughfare, to the left we enter Chester Street, into which a new line of road is opened, communicating with Mardol, and carried over the ancient fosse and through a portion of the wall erected by Robert de Belesme. A few yards further are

THE WATER WORKS,

which supply every house in the remotest part of the town with water for domestic purposes, being raised from the river by means of a steam engine, capable of throwing up 22,000 gallons in the hour. The Company was established under an act of parliament in 1830. [186]

Nearly opposite are

THE ROYAL BATHS,

The Royal Baths, Coton-hillaffording conveniences equal to any which are to be found in the first-rate establishments of this kind in the kingdom, while the moderate terms and strict attention to cleanliness and comfort will, no doubt, ensure to them the patronage and support of the public. Hot air, vapour, shower, warm, salt, medicated, and fresh water baths are in constant readiness, and the pleasure bath is of sufficient dimensions to enable persons to learn the art of swimming.

The building is of a chaste design, the front being ornamented with a portico, supported by two Ionic pillars and two pilasters.

From the road, winding on the banks of the river, an imposing view of the town may be obtained, with a considerable portion of the walls by which it was formerly encompassed. A bold clump of trees on the right denotes

BENBOW HOUSE,

where the gallant Admiral Benbow was born in 1650, whose distinguished deeds in arms have rendered him an honour to our town and country. This brave sailor not only stood against the enemy in the memorable action off Carthagena, in August, 1702, until every hold was gone, but had to encounter the unparalleled treachery of those under his command. The operation of amputating his leg, which was shattered by a chain-shot in the late engagement, added to the deep mental anxiety occasioned by the base conduct of his captains, brought on a fever which terminated his career of glory November 4th, in the same year, universally lamented. His remains received the rites of sepulture in Kingston church, Jamaica. [187]

In the year 1828, a subscription was commenced in this town for the purpose of erecting some memorial in St. Mary’s church (the parish in which he was born) commemorative of this distinguished Salopian, towards which our no less courageous townsman, Admiral Sir Edward Owen, K.C.B. with that frankness and honourable feeling so characteristic of the true British sailor, munificently contributed.

We now arrive at

COTON HILL,

where stood the suburban mansion of the Myttons of Halston, in which that family resided after vacating their town house of Vaughan’s Place. North-west of the turnpike was

ST. CATHARINE’s CHAPEL,

in a pasture still called the Chapel Yard. [188]

Coton appears at a remote period to have been connected with the Suburb of Frankwell by a bank, which caused the river to spread over the meadows called the “Purditches,” forcing its waters from thence under Hencot and Cross Hill in a channel still strongly marked by its rising banks, and discernible at all times, especially during floods, until the stream found its way into the present channel near the Royal Baths. This is particularly evident at the foot of Cross Hill, one mile on the Ellesmere road, to the right of which a toll bar communicates with a pleasant lane, the ancient road to Berwick. From the brow of this lane, the old course of the Severn may be easily defined. From hence, also, the town unfolds itself with peculiar beauty backed by the frontier of Salopian and Cambrian mountains, increasing in variety and picturesque effect throughout this delightful rural walk, until we arrive at Marshall’s Factory, where a wooden bridge over the canal conducts again to the suburb of

THE CASTLE FOREGATE,

the point from which we at first diverged. This long street has become a place of much traffic, owing to a communication having been opened, in 1835, with Birmingham, London, Liverpool, &c. by means of The Shrewsbury Canal, to and from which places goods are received into warehouses erected on its banks. This canal was originally formed in 1797, for the purpose of supplying the town and neighbourhood with coal, brought from Hadley, Ketley, &c. in the eastern part of Shropshire.

The canal terminates on the N.W. side of the County Prison, in a spacious

COAL WHARF,

belonging to the Canal Company, where this indispensible necessary of life may be obtained, of excellent quality, at fifteen shillings per ton. Coal is also procured at the collieries of Welbatch and Uffington, three miles distant from the town.

THE SUBURB OF FRANKWELL,

anciently written Frankville, lies on the west side of the Welsh bridge, and is a township within the parish of St. Chad. In former times it suffered much from the ravages of the Welsh, being in the line of road to the principality, as it is now the thoroughfare to Holyhead.

The inquisitive eye of the antiquary will discover in this suburb many curious specimens of the half-timbered dwellings of our ancestors, one in particular, better known now as the “String of Horses,” appears, from initials, &c. over the chimney piece, to have been erected at least as early as 1576. To the left of this building is “New Street,” leading to Millington’s Hospital, Kingsland, &c. Roads also branch off to the village of Hanwood, and the mining districts of Pontesbury and Westbury.

Passing onward to the right is St. George’s church (page 89), a short distance from which is the “Mount,” so called from a strong outwork erected during the civil wars, under the direction of Lord Capel, and in which he planted several pieces of cannon to protect the town. The garrison of this fort vigorously resisted the attacks of the parliamentarians, even after the town and castle had been captured. In the evening, however, of that day, they had no other alternative but to surrender upon bare quarter.

Near this fortification stood a religious house called Cadogan Chapel, which, in the third year of Edward VI. passed into lay hands. In 1604 it was remaining, though in a ruinous state, having been appropriated in that year as the “Pest House.” [190]

The precinct of this chapel probably extended as far as Millington’s Hospital, the site of the latter being to this day called “The Chapel Yard,” and in the gardens adjoining it skeletons have been found, while a strong yew-tree hedge, still visible at the western end of Cadogan Place, was no doubt its boundary in that direction, near which spot stood “Cadogan’s Cross,” where sermons in other days were occasionally delivered. The bailiffs’ accounts, for 1542, record the item of sixpence for wine given to the Lord President’s chaplain, preaching at Cadogan’s Cross on the Rogation day. The meadows below (on the banks of the Severn), called “Monks Eye,” were granted by Reginald Pinzun to the “Almonry” of Shrewsbury Abbey, in the reign of Henry III. previously to which they bore the appellation of “Crosfurlong.”

Extending our walk for one mile on the great Holyhead road (with the fine woods of Berwick on the opposite side of the river) we reach the township of Shelton, where are some neat suburban villas which unite architectural taste and rural decoration with beauty of situation and commanding prospects. At this place stands

GLENDOWER’S OAK,

famed from the tradition that Owen Glendower, in 1403, ascended its branches to ascertain the event of the Battle of Shrewsbury, a circumstance not unlikely when it is considered that the country was probably more open at that time than at present.

This champion of Welsh independence, it has been already shown, assembled his forces at Oswestry, from whence, according to Holinshed, he sent off only his first division, consisting of 4000 men, who behaved with spirit in the day of action. The Welsh historians, however, have censured his conduct on this occasion, and blame him for what it appears from some cause he was unable to effect, viz. in neglecting to attack Henry after the battle, when the royal forces had sustained a severe loss and were overcome with fatigue, and when his own followers and the remainder of the northern troops would have formed an army nearly double that of the king’s.

There are documents to prove that this oak was “a great tree” within 140 years after the Battle of Shrewsbury, and was an object of remark to old people long before. It is now a chronicle to the eye of the passing traveller, and to those who delight to be carried back into the depth of antiquity. Long may it be preserved from injury, and viewed as the natural historical monument of our vicinity; for Time has truly

Hollowed in its trunk
A tomb for centuries; and buried there
The epochs of the rise and fall of states,
The fading generations of the world,
The memory of man.

According to a recent measurement, the tree is 41½ feet in height; the girth at the base is 44¼ feet, and at eight feet from the ground 27¼ feet.

The interior is hollow, consisting of little more than a shell of bark, forming an alcove capable of holding a dozen individuals; and notwithstanding the branches of this aged tree have borne the blast of many a wintry storm, still it may be said—

The Spring
Finds thee not less alive to her sweet force
Than the young upstarts of the neighbouring woods,
So much thy juniors, who their birth received
Half a millennium since the date of thine.

THE ABBEY FOREGATE.

Passing over the English, or east bridge, from which there is a striking prospect of the town and the tower on the Castle Mount, we reach a small tract of ground, comprising a few houses, called

MERIVALE,

or, Murivale, probably from its connexion with the walls.

In reference to this it appears that in the early part of the 13th century, the abbot consented that the two plats of ground between the main road at the east end of the bridge should be left void for the purpose of erecting defences in the time of war; hence Merivale subsequently became matter of frequent contest between the Corporation and the Abbey, as to the right of jurisdiction within it. This was not finally settled until the dissolution of the monastery, when Henry VIII. stating the “intimate affection” which he bears towards the town of Salop, and his desire “to do and shew favour to the bailiffs and burgesses,” grants that they and their successors may for ever enjoy all the liberties, privileges, &c. within the limits of the Abbey Foregate, including the hamlet of Merivale, in as ample manner as they were enjoyed by the last abbot or his predecessors.

Leaving the National School to the right,

THE MONASTIC REMAINS

next claim our notice, and although now very inconsiderable, yet, like most other Abbeys, they originally consisted chiefly of two quadrangular courts of different dimensions, the conventual church, as was customary, being towards the north. Situated on the other sides were the refectory, almonry, chapter house, dormitory, locutory or parlour, infirmary, guest hall or hospitium, kitchen, and other domestic offices. The abbot’s house or lodging commonly formed one or more portions of the smaller quadrangle, and consisted of a complete mansion.

This Abbey, bereft of its endowments by the reforming spirit of Henry VIII. shared the fate of other similar foundations in the rapine of the dissolution; the buildings connected therewith were sold, and soon afterwards despoiled of their constituent parts, chiefly for the value of the materials, while portions were converted into dwellings and other purposes, or left quietly to moulder into decay.

Of the remains which have excited most attention is an elegant octagonal

STONE PULPIT,

Stone Pulpit

from which one of the junior monks was accustomed to read to his brethren while seated at their meals. Its situation, one half resting on the ruined wall of the Refectory, indisputably proves this; looking outward of the site of that building it forms a small bay window, while the other portion, once inside the hall, is supported on a moulded bracket, which springs from a corbel originally carved as a head. From hence it projects to the basement of the floor, twelve feet from which rises a conical roof sustained on six narrow pointed arches, having trefoil heads.

The interior forms a beautiful oriel, the roof being vaulted on eight delicate ribs, at the intersection of which in the centre is a boss of comparatively large dimensions; on this is beautifully sculptured The Crucifixion, with St. John and the Virgin Mary at the foot of the cross, enclosed under a trefoil arch flanked by buttresses. The spaces of the three northern arches, looking inwards, are filled with embattled stone panels about three feet high, on which are enshrined several figures of saints, &c.

This interesting relic is approached from the garden by a flight of steps through a small doorway worked originally, it is considered, within the thickness of the wall of the refectory.

The south wing of what is supposed to have been part of the monk’s infirmary, chapel, &c. remains south-west of the church. It is now appropriated as a malthouse, and may be distinguished by its lofty gables. A similar building converted into dwellings stood near the street, and was connected with the above by an embattled ruin flanked by massive piers, between which were square windows divided by a transom. This was an imposing feature to our monastic remains, and truly venerable from its antiquity, having braved the storms and tempests of nearly one thousand years, but was taken down without a feeling of forbearance in 1836, and the materials applied for the foundations of two houses adjoining its site.

The present Abbey house is supposed to have been the guest hall, or hospitium, to the east of which three pointed arches, once forming part of a groined ceiling, denote the abbot’s lodging.

Of the chapter house, where the members of the monastery assembled to transact their official business, not a relic is left; but in excavating near its site, in 1836, a leaden seal was found, which had been once appended to a bull from the Pope, whose name is thus inscribed on it, INNOCENTIVS. PP. IIII.

The monks of this Abbey, in the third year of Pope Innocent IV. i.e. 1246, obtained a bull, setting forth the injuries committed against their lands, tithes, possessions, &c. by the monastery of Lilleshull, by which the dean and precentor of Lichfield were directed to convoke the parties and hear the cause.

The dormitory was attached to the south-west side of the church, and was cut through in the formation of a new line of road in 1836.

What a train of reflections, loudly bespeaking the vicissitudes of life, may be called forth during our walk along this new thoroughfare. Who is there, it may be asked, with a mind to think and a heart to feel, that can thoughtlessly pass over ground which has been distinguished in history, without a momentary reflection upon its former importance?

Within the Chapter House, which stood on a portion of this road, occurred the earliest authorized assembly of that popular representation in the constitution of this kingdom, to which, under Providence, Englishmen have been indebted for all their subsequent prosperity,—all their energies, and that noble independence which have characterized us as a people among nations. [196]

Here, too, Richard the Second gratified his fondness for magnificence, by entertaining the members of his parliament with a sumptuous feast, and, as if to dazzle by the splendour of monarchy, and to awe by military display, he was attired in his royal robes, and attended by a numerous guard of Cheshire men.

The fervent orisons of a grateful heart have here been uplifted—divinity and other important subjects discussed—and on this spot the nobility, gentry, abbots, priors, deans, &c. of Shropshire, have frequently congregated, and banished for a time the gloomy silence and sable garb of the brotherhood, and exchanged the sober gravity of the refectory, and its austere monkish repast, for wine and wassail, minstrelsey and song.

Before quitting these scattered ruins, the present remains of the Abbey church must excite feelings of regret in the breast of every admirer of our ancient architecture, at the mistaken zeal which caused its partial and barbarous demolition.

An embattled wall encompassed the northern and eastern sides of the precinct, beyond which is the Foregate, a respectable open street, nearly one mile in length, and chiefly occupied by private residences. The houses to the south have gardens which extend to the Reabrook, and command delightful prospects of the adjacent country. This suburb (April 1st, 1774) suffered considerably from a fire, which destroyed 47 dwellings, 16 barns, 15 stables, 4 shops, and several stacks of hay, beside damaging other property.

On the left, half way up the street, is

THE WHITE HALL,

So called from a practice, during the last century, of occasionally colouring its deep red walls. Our native poet (Churchyard) speaks of this stone mansion in his usual quaint manner, as standing “so trim and finely that it graceth all the soil it is in.” In front is a handsome gatehouse; and the pointed gables, central cupola, and ornamental chimnies, strongly characterise it as an interesting specimen of the old English residence peculiar to the reign of Elizabeth, while its sombre appearance is finely set forth by the vivid foliage of walnut and other trees adjoining. The interior has been modernised, and forms a comfortable habitation. The building was commenced in 1578 by Richard Prince, Esq. a celebrated lawyer, and was his manorial residence. It now belongs to the Right Rev. the Bishop of Lichfield, by purchase from Earl Tankerville.

The White Hall Mansion

A few yards distant is

THE RACE GROUND,

called the “Soldier’s Piece,” from the circumstance of Charles the First having drawn up his army here (page 11).

Situated within a very few minutes’ walk of the town, it may in most points compete with all the secondary courses in the kingdom. It is one mile and 185 yards in circumference, and in addition to a fine straight run for coming-in of 500 yards, possesses the advantage of a sight of the horses throughout the race, combined with an extensive panoramic view of the adjacent richly diversified country; while the town, from so many points picturesque, has from hence a most pleasing appearance.

It may be remarked that this race course is formed on a plan, it is believed, not previously adopted, the arrangement being such as to provide for any distance, from half a mile to four miles, the different lengths being conveniently fixed and marked with letters on short posts inside the course; a reference to which is placed in the winning chair for the information of the public.

A footpath through the meadows near the Hall conducts to the east end of Abbey-foregate, and the noble Column erected on the great London road in commemoration of the military achievements of Lord Hill, who, on his return to his native county, in 1814, was welcomed into Shrewsbury by his countrymen with all the splendid honours attendant upon a triumphal hero. The most enthusiastic rejoicings took place, and upwards of 20,000 persons assembled to witness the festivities, &c. provided on the occasion in the Quarry.

Leaving the venerable church of St. Giles to the left, and proceeding about one mile to the right, along a pleasant walk embellished throughout by an interesting prospect, we reach the saline and chalybeate spring called

SUTTON SPA,

situated in a retired dell near the margin of the Reabrook, and the property of the Right Hon. Lord Berwick.

The spring issues from a rocky stratum of ash-coloured clay, or argillaceous schistus. The water is colourless, and exhales a faint sulphureous smell, much more perceptible in rainy weather. It has been compared with the Cheltenham water, but in reality bears a stronger affinity to sea water, possessing, however, an advantage over that in containing iron. In those cases, therefore, for which sea water is usually recommended it has been found most beneficial, and proves highly serviceable in the treatment of glandular affections, scrofula, and other diseases of the skin. A tumbler glassful operates as a brisk aperient.

The following analysis of the water was recently read at one of the scientific meetings of the Shropshire Natural History Society:—

Eleven cubic inches of the water contain about half a cubic inch of carbonic acid, partly free and partly in a combined state, a quarter of a cubic inch of atmospheric air, and a trace of sulphuretted hydrogen.

Sixteen fluid ounces contain of—

Iodine and bromine, each a trace

Carbonate iron, about 0.7 grain

— lime and siliceous earth, each a trace

Anhydrous muriate magnesia, 8.8 grains

— — lime, 30 grains

— — soda, 121.3 grains. [200]

The importance of this spring is generally acknowledged, and it is matter of regret that proper accommodations for the advantageous use of the water have not been more effectually provided. A stone cistern, within a little shed, is the only receptacle for the water, the refuse from which, after being confined within a covered drain for a few yards, flows into the brook, and has produced an artificial morass, whose surface (from the deposition of iron oxyd) is covered with an ochery scum.

The care of the spring and baths is entrusted to the occupier of a cottage on the spot.

On an elevated situation in an adjoining meadow stands the primitive parish church of Sutton, a characteristic specimen of the little Norman churches erected in villages. The west front is crowned with a cupola, and displays a modern window, but those on the other sides of the fabric are of the earliest kind, narrowing towards the exterior surface of the wall. The town may be regained by different routes over the meadows, which lead to

THE SUBURB OF COLEHAM,

situated on the southern banks of the river, where the Meole or Rea brook joins the Severn. This was until the present century the lowest part of the town, and consequently most liable to be inundated by floods; but of late years the street has been raised about nine feet.

The township is populous, and consists of two districts, called Longden Coleham and Meole Coleham from their respective thoroughfares to those villages. In the latter direction is Trinity Church, and in the former the extensive foundry of Mr. Hazledine, where the iron-work used in the construction of that surprising proof of human ingenuity, the “Menai Bridge,” was cast, and proved by an engine whose pressure was calculated at thirty-seven tons.