“GO ROUND ABOUT HER, AND TELL THE TOWERS THEREOF. MARK WELL HER BULWARKS, SET UP HER HOUSES, THAT YE MAY TELL THEM THAT COME AFTER.”

HAVING noticed the principal Public Structures and Charitable Institutions of Shrewsbury, we turn next to those objects and ancient remains which do not admit of a regular classification.

In adapting the present work, therefore, to assist the Stranger, it is proposed to notice these and such other localities that may engage and deserve attention, in the course of A Walk within the Walls of our town, replete in subjects of antiquarian interest.

In the survey of these matters we shall occasionally lose sight of the refinement of modern times, and accommodate our thoughts and feelings to the days of yore, by adding such historical remarks as may serve the purpose of general as well as local information.

Our perambulation will commence from the spacious area in front of the County Hall, called the

MARKET SQUARE,

from the vegetable market being held there, and from whence may be seen several good specimens of the half-timbered houses of our forefathers, terminating with lofty gables.Proceeding up High Street, anciently called “Bakers’ Row,” from the number of that occupation which located there: on the left of the turning towards Grope Lane is an old timbered house, now a grocer’s shop, but formerly used as

THE MERCERS’ HALL.

Several of the Incorporated Companies originally possessed Halls for holding their meetings and the celebration of their feasts: the former have of late years been held at the Town Hall, and the latter at some of the inns.

About the middle of the street, on the right, is the Unitarian Meeting House (p. 95), where the poet Coleridge preached in 1798; [149] and a few yards further is the “Sextry” passage, or (as it is called in our provincialism) a “shut.” This originally communicated with St. Chad’s church-yard by a covered passage, and derived its name from the sacristy of the church, which is supposed to have stood within it. An old building, now the “Golden Cross,” appears to have been a tavern as early as the year 1495, for in the archives of the corporation is the charge of 13s. 2d. “for wine spent on the king’s gentlemen in the Sextrie.” Its gloomy and confined situation proves how little our unpolished ancestors regarded accommodation or prospect when they were enjoying the pleasure of a jovial carouse.

The ancient stone building at the extremity of the street was in times past occupied as the

SHEARMEN’S HALL;

since which it has been used as a theatre, a methodist chapel, an assembly room, and a temporary assize court; and although now modernised as a tea warehouse, the present remains convey much of the character of the “city halls” of other days, associated with the good cheer, inspirating feasts, and the social merriment of com-brethren in the olden time.

Shearmen’s Hall

The period of its erection is not known; but before the front was altered it presented (according to a drawing in the possession of the writer) a bold pointed window in the style of the fifteenth century, the apex of the gable being finished with an elegant finial. On the south-west side a very curious octagonal chimney, crenelated at the top, still remains.The company of Shearmen were incorporated at least as early as the reign of Edward the Fourth, and the extracts preserved from their records afford many pleasing particulars of ancient customs and hospitality. The setting up of a “green tree,” or May-pole, before their hall, “deck’d with garlands gay,” was, according to an old MS. an usage practised by the apprentices of this company on their feast-day (June 6th) previous to the year 1588. The noisy revelry connected therewith, and of

“Lads and lasses dancing round,”

seems to have excited the displeasure of the puritans, and the custom having been denounced by the “public preacher of the town,” [151] and forbidden by the bailiffs, the MS. further says, that “in 1591 certain young men for their disobedience were put into prison and indicted at the sessions, but on their submission they were acquit of their disobedience, and all further proceedings against them quashed, and it was determined that the usual tree might be put up as heretofore, so that it be done soberly and in good order, without contention.” The attempt to obstruct this ancient festivity caused an angry cavilling and interchange of written communications between the favourers of it and the bailiffs, so as to raise an opposition at the annual passing of the town accounts, for the expence incurred by the prosecution.

In the reign of Elizabeth, six hundred shearmen or cloth-workers were occupied (under the drapers) in dressing or raising the wool on one side of a coarse kind of cloth called Welsh webs, which were brought from Merionethshire and Montgomeryshire to a weekly market in this town.

This manner of raising the wool having been found to weaken the texture of the cloths, the avocation of the company became useless and was discontinued.

Leaving St. Julian’s Church (p. 59) on the left, we arrive at the Wyle Cop,—cop is the Saxon word for top, or head of any thing, and this part is considered as the first portion of the town inhabited by the early British settlers, being situated near the royal dwelling of Brochwel (the site of Old St. Chad’s church). The Saxons, on their possession of the town, continued (without doubt) for a time to occupy the huts abandoned by the Britons. From hence the town extended itself northward in the direction of the churches. Proceeding down the Wyle Cop, we pass the Lion Hotel, four doors below is the house which formed the temporary residence of King Henry the Seventh, who, although he left the bailiffs to pay his soldiers, did not forget the favour conferred upon him by the burgesses. From this place is a pretty distant view of the Wrekin, Lord Hill’s Column, &c. At the foot of the Wyle, and turning to the right, we leave on the left the precinct of the Grey Friars, and pass along Beeches Lane, anciently Bispestan and Bushpestanes, in which is the Blue School and the Roman Catholic Chapel, and arrive at

THE TOWN WALLS,

erected in the time of Henry the Third, to fortify the place against the inroads of the Welsh, and towards the completion of which the burgesses were materially assisted by the royal bounty. These walls, although now deprived of their battlements, form an excellent footpath, and afford a delightful view of the river and adjacent country. At the extremity of the Walls is the Crescent; and a little beyond stands the only remaining Tower of nearly twenty which formerly strengthened the ancient ramparts that enclosed our town.It is square, and of three stories, embattled at the summit, and lighted by narrow square windows; from the style of building, it is probably as old as the reign of Henry the Fourth.

The Old Tower

Nearly adjoining the Tower is the Meeting-house of the Methodist New Connexion; and further on to the right is Swan Hill, formerly called Murivance, signifying before or within the walls. Passing Allatt’s School, a chaste freestone building, the turning to the right leads to St. John’s Hill, chiefly occupied by private individuals. Proceeding onwards, St. Chad’s church breaks upon the view, having a terrace on the south-west side which commands a fine prospect of the beautiful Quarry Walk. Leaving the principal entrance to this delightful promenade, a broad thoroughfare leads to the handsome residences of Claremont Buildings. Continuing our route to the end of this street, a narrow way opens to St. Austin’s Friars and the river, on the margin of which once stood an out-work, flanked by two round towers, erected by the corporation at a remote period for the protection of the opposite ford. In later times one of these towers was called the “Round House,” and was demolished about forty years ago. Turning to the right, we observe the remnant of the house of

THE AUSTIN FRIARS,

of which little appears excepting the outer portion of a red stone building, now used as a tan-house. The Friars Eremites of St. Augustine are supposed to have located in this town about the middle of the thirteenth century, and erected their house on a site which had been used during the reign of John as a place of sepulture, interment in consecrated ground having for a period been forbidden by that king.

The following beautiful initial letter, affixed to a charter from Edward the Third, in 1345, assigns to the friars of this convent the out-work above alluded to, under certain conditions, with leave to have a postern gate for ingress and egress towards their house and church.

Initial Letter of a Charter from Edw. III. to the Austin’s Friars

The king is depicted as sitting upon his throne, holding a globe in his left and a sceptre in his right hand, with two friars kneeling before him, and a third presenting a book or charter.

In the church of this Priory was a sanctuary, where a murderer could take refuge, and thereby escape his merited punishment; and several knights and men of rank, slain in the battle of Shrewsbury, were buried within its walls.

Previously to the dissolution, this house, like many others, fell suddenly into a state of bankruptcy, and the church was stripped of its furniture and vestments. On the site of the precinct which once pertained to this friary, and extended to the Quarry walk, several good houses have been erected.

On the opposite side of the river is the suburb of Frankwell, bordered with gardens; Millington’s Hospital crowning the eminence.

THE WELSH BRIDGE

next attracts attention. It is a bold and substantial structure, completed in 1795, from a design by Messrs. Tilley and Carline, of this town, at a cost of £8000. It consists of five semi-circular arches, surmounted with a balustrade, and is 266 feet in length and 30 in breadth.

It has been truly remarked, that while in cities of greater commercial importance no public works of great extent have been carried on without the exaction of tolls and contributions, the inhabitants of this town and county have, to their immortal honour, erected two noble bridges, by which the trade of the neighbouring districts has been released from the burthen of a vexatious tax, at a total expence of full £30,000, the whole of which was raised by voluntary contribution.

The Welsh Bridge

It is, however, matter of regret that too little attention has been shewn to encroachments on the river, by which much of the beauty of our bridges has been destroyed.Adjoining the Welsh bridge are quays and spacious warehouses, from whence the barges and trows receive and discharge their cargoes. This end of the town formerly displayed a scene of commercial importance, as being the place where the London, Birmingham, and Manchester waggons arrived, and from whence goods were forwarded to all parts of the kingdom; but owing to the communication opened with the above-mentioned places by the Shrewsbury canal, which terminates in the Castle-foregate, most of the goods arrive there; this part, therefore, retains little more of its former bustle than is occasioned by the arrival of waggons for the dispatch of merchandize into North Wales, and what remains of the Severn trade.

From hence we proceed up the street called Mardol; about half-way up, on the right, is Hill’s Lane, where is situated

ROWLEY’S MANSION,

said to be the first brick structure erected in Shrewsbury. It appears to have been built in 1618 by William Rowley, draper, and the first of his family who settled in this town, of which he was admitted a burgess in 1594, and made an alderman in 1633, under the charter of Charles the First. His grand-daughter and co-heiress married John Hill, Esq. who lived in great hospitality in this mansion, from whom the street received the appellation of Hill’s Lane, instead of Knuckin-street. He died in 1731, and the house was soon afterwards inhabited by the talented Dr. Adams, incumbent of St. Chad’s from 1731 to 1775.

The portal of this mansion is curious, and is accurately delineated by the wood cut. The great chamber, or withdrawing room, remains nearly in its original state, and is adorned with a basso relievo representation of the Creation, and other devices in stucco, &c. The oak wainscot from the other apartments has lately been removed. It is now used as a storehouse for grain, and presents a striking picture of—

“Some banquet Hall deserted,
Whose lights are fled, whose glory’s dead,
And all but it departed.”

Portal of Rowley’s Mansion

Retracing our steps to Mardol, at the top of the street is a pile of ancient houses, decorated on the exterior with plaster and stone ornaments, in the fantastical fashion of the time in which they were built. The turning below these leads to Claremont Street, formerly Doglane. On the left is a curious half-timbered house, built in 1613, with a projecting porch. A little lower is the Baptist Meeting House. Keeping to the left, is an old mansion, called

THE BELL STONE,

from a large stone which formerly stood outside the wall that surrounded the portion of the court not occupied by the buildings. The stone is now removed to the area in front of the house, which before the recent alteration was a good specimen of the smaller mansion of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It was erected by Edward Owen, Esq. a bailiff of the town in 1582.

Leaving the new Theatre on the right, we enter the street called Shoplatch, a name supposed to be derived from Shutt Place, the residence of an ancient Shrewsbury family of the name of Shutt, the remains of which are still to be traced in the massive walls of a stone edifice long disused, however, for domestic purposes, and arrive at Mardol Head, formerly called The Stalls. At the corner leading to High-street is

IRELAND’S MANSION,

once the town residence of the ancient family of Ireland, long seated at Albrighton. It is a spacious half-timbered building, four stories high, finished with gables, on the beams of which are the following armorial bearings—Gules, three fleurs de lis, three, two, and one, Argent. The front consists of four ranges of bay windows, the original entrance having been in the centre under a Tudor arch. It is now divided into three excellent dwellings.Passing up Pride Hill, formerly called Corvisors’ Row, we reach the High Pavement, where, opposite the present Butter and Poultry Market, once stood

THE HIGH CROSS,

which was no doubt similar in design to the elegant structures at Chichester and other places. It appears to have escaped the iconoclastic zeal of the puritans; for we learn that the old stone cross was not taken down until the year 1705. All general proclamations, as in former times, are still made upon this spot, whilst the reminiscences connected with it afford a melancholy picture of feudal severity. Here David, the last of the British Princes, underwent his cruel sentence, for defending by force of arms the liberties of his native country; and here the Earl of Worcester and other distinguished noblemen, after the battle of Shrewsbury, atoned for their rebellion by the loss of their heads.

Continuing our course, we enter Castle Street, which is terminated in a picturesque manner by Laura’s tower on the Castle mount, and the umbrageous foliage with which it is surrounded. At the extremity of this spacious street stands

ST. NICHOLAS’S CHAPEL,

the only one existing of eight similar structures. Its present appearance proves it to be of Norman foundation, and built probably by Earl Roger de Montgomery for the accommodation of such of his retainers as resided in the outer court of the castle within which it once stood. It was subsequently appropriated for the accommodation of the President and Council of the Marches of Wales. The west end displays a pointed window divided by a mullion, and in the interior is a massive semi-circular arch, which separated the nave from a chancel now destroyed. In lowering the floor in 1825, several human skulls and bones were discovered. The building is 50 feet long, by 19 wide, and is used at present as a coach-house and stable.

Gateway of Council House

To the right of this edifice is a handsome timber gateway, erected in 1620, which leads to

THE COUNCIL HOUSE,

or Lord’s Place, originally occupied as the residence of the Court of the Marches of Wales; the Lords President and Council of which, in assembling,

“With temper’d awe to guide
An old and haughty nation proud in arms,”

were frequently received here “righte royallie” by the corporation and trading companies; the latter, no doubt, considering that the great number of persons which this Court attracted to the town in its judicial capacity, independent of the attendant pomp and feasting, was of no small benefit to them in their respective crafts and occupations, by multiplying the consumption of the necessaries of life, and imparting to Shrewsbury somewhat of the importance of a second capital.

In the early part of the rebellion, the Corporation sent an invitation to Charles the First, stating that he should “have free access into the town, and be entertained in the best manner these troublesome times afford.” The unfortunate monarch accepted the loyal offer of his Salopian subjects, and arrived here Sept. 20th, 1642, attended by his two sons (the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York) and his nephew Prince Rupert, where he resided for the space of six weeks. King James the Second also kept his court here in 1687.

In 1583 the Corporation granted to Richard Barker, Esq. town-clerk of Shrewsbury, their interest in the council house and adjoining chapel, reserving the use of it for the annual residence of her Majesty’s Council. From him it passed to Thomas Owen, Esq. also town-clerk, in whose family it remained until it was purchased by Richard Lyster, Esq. to whose descendant, Henry Lyster, of Rowton Castle, Esq. it now belongs. [162]The building stands on an eminence overhanging the river in the vicinity of the castle, in what is supposed to have been the outer ballium of that fortress. Its erection took place about the time of Henry the Seventh, and it was soon afterwards considerably enlarged in all probability with some of the materials from the castle and the adjoining convent of Black Friars. On the extinction of the Court of the Marches in 1689, these extensive buildings became ruinous, and their remains have been (during the present century) converted into three good houses, which command delightful prospects. The hall and great chamber above form a portion of the residence of Dr. Du Gard, who has displayed a commendable taste in preserving as far as possible the character of this part of the building.

Returning along Castle Street, on the right is the Raven Hotel, where Lieut. Geo. Farquhar (in 1704 or 1705) wrote his comedy of “The Recruiting Officer,” the scene of which is laid in Shrewsbury; and while it sufficiently demonstrates he was well acquainted with that gay scene of life which forms the subject of his play, it is equally certain he had “living originals in his eye.” The epistle dedicatory is “To all friends round the Wrekin,” and states he was a perfect stranger to every thing in Salop but its character of loyalty, the number of its inhabitants, and their generous and hospitable reception of strangers,—an eulogium, it is devoutly to be wished, may be retained by Salopians in every generation.

Taking the direction of the street opposite the Raven, a pleasing view of ancient and modern architecture presents itself, in St. Mary’s church and the Infirmary. On the south-west side of the church-yard is

THE DRAPERS’ HALL,

Drapers’ Hall, Interior View

a half-timbered building, erected probably about the time of Elizabeth. The interior is sufficiently described by the accompanying engraving, presented by the liberality of the Drapers’ Company. The apartment is 28 feet by 20, but was originally of larger dimensions. It is wainscotted with fine old oak, and the floor was once rich in emblazoned tiles. At the north end is the upper place, or “dais,” where the members “feasted full and high;” and on the opposite side stands a fine old chest, with richly carved ornaments; above which is a painting said to represent the first steward of the company, Degory Watur, and his wife; this originally stood on the front of the hall house occupied by Degory in the almshouses.

The east side is decorated with a portrait of Edward the Fourth, denoting round the circumference his titles and decease in 1483. Beneath are the following lines:—

This Yeare fourth Edward York’s farre fam’d renowne
Circled his temples with great Albion’s crowne;
When over reading the memoriale
Of Salop’s Draper’s Ancient Hospitale,
Founded in honour of the sacred Deity,
He own’d and stiled them then, the blest Society;
And with his Parliament’s sage approbation
Deigned them his Charter for a Corporation,
Which to confirme Himself was pleas’d to be
The Royal Founder of their Companie,
Granting immunities of large extent,
Which stand his bounties gratefull monument.

Edwardo 4º regi Anglorum
Gloriosissimo monumentum
Hoc posuit Pannariorum
Salopiensium grata Societas.

Returning from this hall, which is the only one appropriated to its original purpose, to the left is Dogpole (from Doke or Duck, to decline, and Poll, the head or summit); the street having an abrupt descent towards the river, to which there was formerly a communication.To the right is St. Mary’s Street and the Almshouses. This street was very narrow until the year 1824, when several old buildings were taken down. Pursuing our course along Church Street, we pass the site and remnant of a half-timbered house, distinguished by gables, which formed a portion of

JONES’S MANSION,

in which the Duke of York resided when he accompanied his royal father to this town in 1642. It was also the abode of “Prince Rupert, when he joined his uncle after the brilliant action of Worcester.” This house was built by Thos. Jones, Esq. whose burial is noticed in the account of the adjoining church of St. Alkmond. Leaving that sacred edifice to the left, and turning a few yards to the right, we arrive at the Double Butcher Row, a street chiefly occupied by butcher’s shambles, and where is an

ANCIENT TIMBER HOUSE,

considered to be one of the oldest and largest of this kind of buildings of which our town displays so many specimens.

The projecting stories are sustained by elegant brackets, and the angle uprights enriched with small pointed arches, carved with trefoil and other decorations. Along the front basement is a cloister of wooden arches obtusely pointed.—This building, 60 feet in length, is now divided into smaller habitations. History is silent as to the time, or by whom this edifice was erected, nor have we any decided information of its primary occupancy.

From the appearance of the cloister, it has been conjectured that it was a religious house, inhabited by the chauntry priests of the fraternity of the Holy Cross in St. Alkmund’s church. But from its extent it is more likely to have been the town mansion of the Abbot of Lilleshull, who had a residence in this part of the parish, and to which monastery the patronage of the church belonged.

Ancient Timber House

Continuing our route to the left of this house, we pass steps leading to the churchyard, and the foundations of a stone building (which once pertained to an Oriel and the ancient college of St. Alkmond), into Fish-street, occupied by shambles, and on market-days by the country butchers. Crossing the top of High-street, we enter Milk-street, which leads to Old St. Chad’s (page 28), and the street called Belmont, in which is situated

THE JUDGES’ HOUSE,

purchased by the County of Salop in 1821, under an act for providing suitable accommodation for the reception of his Majesty’s judges of assize. At the south-west end of the opposite thoroughfare across the church-yard is the remains of a red stone wall which formed part of

THE COLLEGE OF ST. CHAD,

originally a large ancient building inclosing a quadrangular court, separated from the street by a lofty wall and gateway, In 1549 Edward the Sixth granted the college to Hugh Edwards, Esq. the individual who (in 1551) exerted himself in obtaining the foundation of our grammar school. It continued in his family until 1752, when Lord and Lady Malpas disposed of the buildings, which were soon afterwards converted into three excellent houses, but so effectually modernized with brick as to display none of the appearance of a “college,” although the name is still retained.

Westward is College Hill. Half-way down this street, a modern Gothic front denotes

VAUGHAN’S PLACE,

which, before its alteration and brick casing in 1795, was considered a most curious specimen of the unembattled town mansion, erected (it is conjectured) about the middle of the fourteenth century by Sir Hamo Vaughan, whose daughter Eleanor married Reginald de Mutton. By this alliance the house came into the possession of the Myttons of Halston, several of whom represented this town in parliament; but little of its original state now appears. The hall is approached from a passage near the Corn-market by a flight of steps, and displays a deeply-recessed pointed arch; a similar one is seen from the College-hill entrance. One portion of the building forms the Watch Room and Police Station of the town, and some of the spacious vaults beneath are used as a temporary receptacle for midnight disorderlies.

Nearly adjoining, in the street leading to the Corn-market, is the Talbot Hotel, where the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria alighted on their visit to this town in 1832, on which occasion the mayor and corporation waited upon them with a congratulatory address.