Fruit for preserving should be carefully selected, it should never be bruised, and always be of the largest kind and fairest quality.

No sugar will make handsome preserves but the purest white. It may be pulverized or in the loaf. Besides, it is a mistaken idea that low priced sugars are cheaper for preserves, for they must be boiled much longer in order to collect the great amount of scum which arises on the syrup, consequently the evaporation reduces the quantity.

Very little white of egg or isinglass is sufficient to clarify an ordinary sized kettle of syrup. If too much of either is used it froths on the surface and is of no utility.

Preserves should always be boiled smartly; many persons would be more successful with their preserving if they would let their fruit boil fast. When permitted to simmer it breaks in pieces.

All jellies and preserves should be put in the jars while lukewarm, as the jelly or syrup, if it be thick, breaks after it has become cold; the jars should be left open till the next day.

Glass jars of a small size, or large tumblers, are better for preserves than china, for should they not keep well it can be detected immediately.

Each jar should have a piece of white paper cut the size of the top, dip the paper in brandy or spirits of wine and lay it on the preserves; then cut another piece about a quarter of an inch larger than the mouth of the jar; cut the edge of it in slits nearly a quarter of an inch long; cover this edge with paste, place the paper over the jar and lap the edge over on the side of the jar, which may easily be done, as the strips will lap one over the other.

Each jar should have the name of the contents written on the cover.

Preserves should be kept in a cool dry place.

CALF'S FOOT JELLY.

421. To one set of feet pour three quarts of water. Let it boil till reduced to one half, then strain the liquor through a jelly bag and stand it away to get cold. When it is cold scrape off the cake of fat, and in order to cleanse the jelly from all the grease wipe the surface with a damp spunge, also the sides of the vessel which contains it. Cut up the jelly and put it in your preserving kettle, but be careful not to take the sediment which settles at the bottom. To each pint of this jelly add half a pound of the very best white sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of Russian isinglass dissolved in warm water, one tea cupful of Madeira wine, and the juice and rind of two lemons. When the sugar is dissolved set the kettle over the fire and boil it for twenty minutes. Then pour it into your jelly bag and let it drip but do not squeeze the bag. As soon as it has all dripped through turn the bag, scrape it well but do not wash it, and strain your jelly again. Repeat this till it is perfectly clear. Pour it in the moulds while it is warm and let them stand open till the jelly is cold. When you wish to turn it out of the moulds wring a napkin out of hot water and wrap it round the moulds for a minute or two, then turn the moulds upside down, and the jelly will turn out.

FOX GRAPE JELLY.

422. Take green fox grapes, wash them and put them in a preserving kettle with just water enough to pulp them. When they are tender mash and strain them through a sieve, to free them from the seeds and skin. To each pint of the pulp add a pound of the best white sugar, and a piece of isinglass about an inch square, dissolved in warm water. When the sugar has dissolved stir it well, and place the kettle over the fire. Let it boil fifteen or twenty minutes, then try it by dropping a little in a glass of cold water, if it falls to the bottom without mixing with the water the jelly is done. Pass it through a jelly bag, pour it into your glasses while warm, and let it stand till the next day before the glasses are pasted.

CRANBERRY JELLY, No. 1.

423. Pick and wash your cranberries, which should be very ripe, and put them over the fire with half a pint of water to each quart of cranberries. Stew them till they are soft, then mash them and strain the juice through a jelly bag; to each pint of juice add one pound of loaf or pulverized white sugar, with some isinglass, in the proportion of half an ounce to two quarts of juice. Dissolve the isinglass in as much warm water as will cover it; when perfectly dissolved, which will require a couple of hours, pour it in with the sugar and juice. When the sugar is dissolved set the kettle over the fire, and boil and skim it till a jelly is formed, which you can tell by dropping a little in a glass of cold water. If it falls to the bottom without mingling with the water the jelly is done. When it is lukewarm pour it in glasses and let them stand till the following day, then cover them with brandy paper and paste them closely.

CRANBERRY JELLY, No. 2.

424. Dissolve one ounce of Russian isinglass in three half-pints of warm water. Strain it through your flannel jelly-bag. Add to this three pints of cranberry juice with four pounds of sugar; boil and skim it. As soon as the scum has ceased to rise strain it and put it in moulds. The sugar should be of the best quality.

ORANGE JELLY.

425. Squeeze the juice from the oranges, and to every pint of the juice add a pound of sugar and a quarter of an ounce of dissolved isinglass. The Russian isinglass is the kind to use for this purpose. Boil and skim it till a jelly is formed, which you may tell by letting a drop fall in a glass of cold water, and if it falls to the bottom in a mass the jelly is done. Or, take a little out in a spoon and expose it to the cool air for a few minutes.

STRAWBERRY JELLY.

426. Stem the strawberries, put them in a pan, and with a wooden spoon or potato masher rub them fine. Put a sieve over a pan, and inside of the sieve spread a piece of thin muslin; strain the juice through this, and to a pint add one pound of sugar, with a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in water to every five pounds of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved set the kettle over the fire and boil it till it is to a jelly. Pour it into glasses while it is warm, and paste them when cold.

CURRANT JELLY.

427. Mash your fruit with a wooden spoon, and squeeze the juice through your jelly bag. To every pint of juice allow a pound of white sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, add a piece of isinglass dissolved in warm water to clarify the jelly. A quarter of an ounce of isinglass to five pints of juice will be sufficient. Boil and skim it till a jelly is formed; then take it off the fire and put it in glasses while warm. The next day put brandy paper over them and paste them.

Black currant jelly is made in the same way, only it requires but three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice.

QUINCE JELLY.

428. Pare and core your quinces, and as you pare them throw them into cold water. Put them into a preserving kettle with water enough to cover them, and let them boil till the fruit is tender. Then put a sieve over a pan, pour the fruit and water into it and let it drain, but do not mash the fruit; strain the juice through the jelly bag. To each pint of juice thus obtained add one pound of loaf or pulverized white sugar; and to every five pounds of sugar add a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in hot water. When the sugar is dissolved put it over the fire and boil and skim it till a jelly is formed, which you can discover by dropping a little in a glass of cold water: if it sinks to the bottom without mingling with the water the jelly is done. Pour it in your glasses when it is lukewarm, and let them stand open till it is entirely cold. Cover with brandy paper, and paste paper over the top.

If you wish to have light colored jelly, never put in the parings, as they always make it dark. A jelly may be made of the parings and cores for family use.

Apple jelly maybe made in the same manner as the quince. The pulp of the apple, which is left after the jelly is made, may be sweetened for pies. The pulp of the quince may be made into marmalade according to the following receipt:

QUINCE MARMALADE.

429. To each pound of the pulp obtained according to the above receipt for jelly, add one pound of white sugar; boil the whole until it is perfectly smooth. It must be stirred all the time it is boiling. If you do not make jelly of your quinces cut them up in small pieces, add a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and as much water as will dissolve the sugar; then boil it till it is a perfectly smooth paste; stir it all the time.

PEACH MARMALADE.

430. Pare and cut up the peaches in small pieces, and to a pound of fruit add a pound of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved set it over the fire and let it boil till it is a smooth paste. Stir it all the time it is boiling. Put it in the jars while warm and paste them over the next day.

PRESERVED PEARS.

431. Peel the pears, and if they are large, cut each one in four pieces, and take out the core.

To a pound of fruit weigh a pound of sugar; dissolve the sugar with just enough water to wet it, add a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in warm water to five pounds of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, make the syrup as directed for preserved peaches, and cook the fruit in the same manner.

PRESERVED QUINCES.

432. Pare and core the fruit, cut them in quarters, and boil them in water until tender. Weigh the fruit and add a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Put the sugar in a preserving-kettle with two wine-glasses of water to each pound of sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in warm water to every six pounds of fruit. When the sugar is dissolved set it over the fire, boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then pour the syrup in another vessel, wash the kettle so as to free it from any scum which may adhere to it, pour the jelly back in the kettle and put in the fruit. Set it over a brisk fire and let it boil for about an hour and a half, or until the fruit looks clear when held towards the light. It should always boil hard or the preserves will be dark colored. When it appears translucent take it off the fire; take the fruit out a piece at a time, and lay it on broad dishes. Strain the syrup, and when it is lukewarm put the fruit in your jars and pour the syrup over. When cold cover with brandy paper and paste them closely.

PRESERVED PINE-APPLE.

433. Scald the slices in water till tender; then make a syrup of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and proceed as directed for quinces.

PRESERVED PEACHES.

434. Choose the white cling-stones, known by the name of the "Heath peach." Insert the knife at the stem and cut them longitudinally through to the stone. Wring out the stones by placing one hand on each half of the peach and suddenly give each a turn in opposite directions; the fruit will break in half, leaving the stone attached to one side. With a pointed knife it may easily be extracted. After the peaches have all been prepared in this manner pare and weigh them. Then weigh a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, and allow a gill of water to each pound of sugar. Let the sugar stand until it is perfectly dissolved before it is put on the fire; to ten pounds of sugar add the half of the white of an egg, well beaten, or a piece of Russian isinglass, about an inch square, dissolved in two table spoonsful of water. Set the kettle over the fire, and as soon as the syrup begins to boil skim it. When the scum has ceased to rise, take the syrup off the fire, pour it into a pan, and wash the kettle in order to prevent the scum which adheres to the sides from boiling into the fruit. Now pour the syrup back into the kettle, add the fruit to it, and place it over a brisk fire, let the fruit boil fast for about an hour and a quarter, or until it appears translucent when held on a fork towards the light. Then take your peaches out very carefully, a piece at a time; place them on dishes so as merely to touch. Pour the syrup in pans, and let it stand until it is about lukewarm. Then put the fruit into your jars and pour the syrup over; paste the jars the next day.

PRESERVED FRESH FIGS.

435. Select the fruit when fully ripe, though not soft, pick them carefully that they may not be broken. Pour boiling water over them, and let them simmer for five minutes.

Preserve them as other fruits.

PRESERVED CITRON MELON.

436. Cut off the hard rind of the melon (which should be the preserving citron, not the green cantelope) and cut it in pieces of any size and shape you choose: the slices should be from a quarter to half an inch thick. Weigh your fruit, and to every pound add one of sugar. Put the sugar in a preserving kettle with a gill of water to each pound of sugar and some isinglass dissolved in warm water; it will require a quarter of an ounce of isinglass to every five pounds of fruit. When the sugar is dissolved, put it over the fire and boil and skim it. Then pour the syrup out of the kettle, wash it and return the syrup to it. Now put in the fruit, and set it over a brisk fire, where it will boil rapidly. When the fruit appears translucent when held up towards the light it is done. It will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half to cook it.

Then take it out a piece at a time, spread it on dishes, and strain the syrup in a pan. When the syrup is lukewarm, put your fruit in the jars and pour it over. Let them stand till next day, put brandy paper over and paste them.

This fruit may be flavored with lemons sliced and preserved with it. Do not peel the lemons, cut them in thin slices, and cook them with the fruit. To three pounds of fruit add one lemon. As the citron makes a beautiful but tasteless preserve, it is necessary to flavor it with lemon, orange, or some other fruit. If, when it is a little cool, it should not taste sufficiently of the lemon, a few drops of the essence of lemon may be added.

PRESERVED GREEN GAGES.

437. Prepare the fruit by pricking each one with a needle to prevent them from bursting.

Leave a portion of the stem on each, as it gives small fruits a handsome appearance on the table. Make a syrup of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; and a gill of water to a pound of sugar. Add a quarter of an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in warm water, to every six pounds of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved put it with the dissolved isinglass over the fire, boil and skim it. Then pour it out of the kettle, wash the kettle, put the syrup back again, put in the fruit, and boil it till by holding one towards the light it looks clear. Take the gages out one at a time, strain the syrup; put the fruit in jars, and pour the syrup over warm. Paste them up the next day.

PRESERVED PLUMS.

438. These are preserved in the same manner as gages, only they are skinned by pouring hot water over them; the skins will peel off nicely and leave the stems attached to the fruit.

STRAWBERRY JAM.

439. Put together equal weights of fruit and sugar, mash all well, put it into a preserving kettle, and boil it about twenty minutes. While it is warm put it in jars, and paste it when cold.

CHERRY JAM.

440. This is better when made of fine morella cherries. Wash the cherries and put them on to stew with a gill of water to a pound of fruit. When perfectly tender, pass them through a colander to extract the stones. To a pound of the pulp add a pound of sugar, when the sugar is dissolved put it over the fire, and boil it to a smooth paste.

RASPBERRY JAM.

441. To a pound of fruit weigh a pound of sugar; mash the fruit in a pan with a wooden spoon; put the sugar to it, and boil it hard for fifteen or twenty minutes.

To four pounds of raspberries you may add one pound of ripe currants; they give the jam a fine flavor and a pretty color.

Blackberry jam is made in the same manner; only leave out the currants.

GREEN GAGE JAM.

442. Wash the fruit, and stew it with enough water to keep them from scorching. Mash them, and strain the pulp through a colander. To a pint of pulp add a pound of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, boil it till it is a smooth mass.

Plum jam is made in the same way.

PINE APPLE JAM.

443. This is made like all other jams, only the pine apple is grated.

BRANDY GRAPES.

444. Put some close bunches, when ripe, into a jar, first pricking each grape with a needle; strew over them half their weight in pounded loaf sugar, fill up with brandy, and tie them closely. They look very handsome on the table.

BRANDY PEACHES.

445. Select the white cling-stone, known by the name of the "Heath peach." Make a hot ley of ashes and water, put in a few peaches at a time, and let them remain about a minute and a half, or until the skin will rub off with your finger. Take them out and throw them in a vessel of cold water, when all are done in this manner, rub off the skins with a cloth, and throw them in another vessel of cold water. Make a syrup of half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Prepare it in the same manner as for preserves; put in your peaches, and let them boil until they are sufficiently tender to be easily pierced with a straw.

Take them out, and add to each pint of syrup a quart of the very best white brandy, when the fruit is cool put it in your jars, but leave plenty of room to fill them with the syrup, as if packed too closely they lose their shape.

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