In many localities it is impossible to find a professional to reseat caned chairs either by hand or with cane webbing. Many chairs in good repair and worthy are relegated to the attic because of broken or sunken seats. Upholsterers generally will not be troubled with such jobs of caning for the work does not pay unless there is an amount sufficient to keep them steadily employed. Usually they are not adept enough to do such odd jobs as may come to them, even tho willing to do the work, within a time consistent with sufficient money returns.

Chairs of ordinary size may be caned for a minimum of $1 and a maximum of $2. If the holes have previously been bored, much labor is thus avoided, and the charge is naturally made less. The professional cane weaver has various ways by which he determines the cost for recaning a given seat. Perhaps the most common method employed is that of charging so much per hole. This is from 1 to 2 cents. The difficulty in handling very fine cane is also a factor in deciding what to charge. Usually a casual looking over of the chair by the expert is all that is necessary to fix a price. No charge of less than $1 on a hand caned seat will sufficiently remunerate the worker. Fig. 18 shows a hank of cane and rolls of machine woven cane.

Any boy who has had instruction and sufficient experience in caning in the manual training shop may readily undertake jobs of caning. The boy who will investigate will find that he may work up a sizeable trade in chair seating in a short time. In fact several boys will not overcrowd a given field. Such work will pay the amateur well. He does not, nor cannot expect professional wages. It is of considerable value from the pupil’s standpoint alone, that is, this correlation with his manual school activities. The amount of pay initially is not the main question; it is the educational value derived. He would undoubtedly find willing help at his shop at any time a job of peculiar treatment presented itself.The Process.—Many chairs which the owners would wish hand caned have no holes bored for the work. They previously held machine woven cane. Fig. 19 shows a sketch of a chair bottom of ordinary or standard shape. The area is irregular. The sketch shows the method of determining the location for the holes.

As stated in the discussion of the seven steps in caning, the holes are invariably ½ in. from the inner edges of the rails. In this instance the line from which the holes for the front rail are located is parallel with the front rail; it is coincident with the line on which the holes are bored. The line on the back rail must be parallel with it; the line runs thru the center of the center hole. The lines on the side rails are parallel to each other and at right angles to the first two. These four lines are shown as dash lines on the drawing. Their function is simply to determine the location for the holes to be bored on the lines ½ in. from the inner edges of the rails. Those lines are shown in the sketch as full lines.

When the working lines are determined, the centers of the front and back lines are located. The lines connecting corresponding holes on the front and back rails must be parallel to the line connecting the center holes on these rails. This rule applies to the locating of the holes on the side rails. It also applies to any seat of odd shape. The distance between holes will vary somewhat at different places on the seat frame. This is the result of working to rule, and is necessary to keep strands equidistant and parallel. At times respacing at several places will be necessary. When it is, simply redivide into as nearly the given dimensions as possible.

After the holes have been bored and cleaned the seat is ready for caning. Start at the center hole in the back. Pull the cane up thru this hole and across the frame, and down the center hole in the front. Work both ways on the frame. Fig. 19 shows a cane started in this manner. It is best that the amateur work from the center, both ways. He may begin otherwise when he understands the work better. The caning operations on the seat to be shown are the same as those described in the seven steps in caning. They never vary. The only new thing involved here is the shape of the seat. Fig. 20 is a photograph of a chair seat of an odd shape, an irregular ellipse. It shows the first step half completed. Note here that the last strand skips two holes, one at the front and one at the back. This is necessary to keep strands as nearly the same distance apart as possible. Fig. 21 shows the first step completed and the second partially so. It is not necessary to start at the center with this series, altho it is advisable with the beginner. Note that two holes have been skipped here, as in the first step. Fig. 22 shows the second step finished and the third under way. These strands run directly over those of the first series. Pegs are always used to keep strands taut. Their proper use has been explained. Fig. 23 shows the third step completed and the fourth under way. This shows the actual weaving, and the method of using the needle. It has been pushed thru in the manner previously described; and is shown threaded, ready to be pulled back, thus making the weave. The needle may not be used, but will do the work rapidly. Handwork alone here is tedious. Fig. 24 shows the diagonal weave under way. In Fig. 25 this weave is completed and the second diagonal started. Fig. 26 shows the method of fastening the binder. This has been described.

The first three series of strands should not be pulled very tight, otherwise the final weaving will prove difficult. The finished seat, when dry, should ring when struck sharply with the fingers.

The method of tying cane, preventing twists, etc., has been explained. Reference should be made to these points, when anything is not fully understood in this discussion of chair seating.

Note that many holes have been skipped in each series, especially in the last two, and also that more than one diagonal of a given series enters the same hole. In every case it will enter that hole which leaves its course in as straight a line as possible. In rectangular areas it is never necessary to run two diagonals into the same hole, except at the corners. This applies to two diagonals of the same series.Refinishing.—The refinishing of a chair is a distinct problem, and one which the cane weaver should understand. He should acquire ability for finishing along with skill in caning, inasmuch as a chair which needs a new seat invariably is in need of refinishing. The method is as follows: Remove the cane from the seat. If the finish is in fair condition merely wash the chair with warm water and soap. When dry sand the surface somewhat, wipe clean, and follow with a coat of good varnish. In forty-eight hours rub with pumice stone and oil, and follow with an application of furniture polish, well rubbed. A good polish which may be made in school shops is composed of two parts of raw oil, two parts of turpentine, one part vinegar, and a very small amount of alcohol. Boiled oil may be used in the absence of the raw product. Shake the container constantly when using, for the parts are almost all merely held in suspension.

Should the chair be in poor condition, remove all varnish with any good varnish remover found on the market. Apply as directed with a stiff brush, running the solution well into all crevices. Later rub off the softened finish with excelsior or burlap. A scraper, an old plane bit, or a rather dull chisel will prove effective in corners and recesses. Apply a second coat of remover if conditions warrant it and clean again, then when the surfaces are dry, sand until clean and smooth. Follow with a coat of oil stain of the color desired; then two coats of varnish, allowing each coat to dry 48 hours. Sand the first coat lightly, and rub the second with pumice stone and oil. A filler is not generally necessary in refinishing. The ground coat may be of shellac instead of varnish if the worker prefers it. The chair need not be stained if it was finished natural originally.

In caning the seat special care must be exercised to avoid marring the varnished frame. If the needle is used in the fourth step the frame needs protection from it. Pieces of bristol or card board may be placed under the needle on either side of the frame. The needle is bound to mar the surface of the frame if this precaution is not taken.

In many instances it is policy to cane the seat after the old finish has been removed; this to avoid any possibility of marring the seat frame later. However, it is better practice to refinish the chair first, and cane the seat last.