About the year 790, Charlemagne granted an unlimited right of hunting to the Abbot and Monks of Sithin, for making their Gloves and Girdles of the Skins of the Deer they killed, and Covers for their Books. [Mabillon de Re Diplom. p. 611. Grose.]

Anciently richly adorned and decorated with precious Stones,—as in the Rolls of Parliament, anno 53 Hen. III. A. D. 1267. "Et de 2 Paribus Chirothecarum cum lapidibus." [Warton's History of Poetry, vol. I. p. 182, note. Grose.]

Edward Vere, Earl of Oxford, according to Mr. Walpole's account, on the authority of Stowe,—"having travelled into Italy, is recorded to have been the first that brought into England embroidered Gloves and Perfumes; and presenting the Queen [Elizabeth] with a Pair of the former, she was so pleased with them, as to be drawn with them in one of her Portraits." [Royal and Noble Authors, vol. i. p. 159. Note to Winter's Tale, edit. Johnson and Steevens, 1778, p. 388.]

"Give Gloves to the Reapers, a Largesse to cry."

[Tusser, v. Hist. of Hawsted. 190.]

The Monastery of Bury allowed its Servants two pence apiece for Glove-Silver in Autumn. [Hist. of Hawsted. 190.]

The rural Bridegroom, in Laneham's (or Langham's) Account of the Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth at Kenelworth Castle, 1575, had—a Payr of Harvest Gloves on his Hands, as a sign of good Husbandry. Id. in eod.

When Sir Thomas Pope, the Founder of Trinity College, Oxford, visited it, 1556, "The Bursars offered him a present of embroidered Gloves." [Warton's Life of Sir Thomas Pope, p. 119.]

When Sir Thomas Pope had founded the College, the University complimented him with a Letter of Thanks, which was accompanied with a Present of rich Gloves, 1556. [Warton's Life, p. 132, note.] The Gloves were sent both to himself and Lady, and cost 6s. 8d. [Id. in eod.]

After the death of Sir Thomas Pope, his Widow married Sir Hugh Powlett; on which occasion the College presented her, as the Wife of the Founder, with a Pair of very rich Gloves, the charge for which runs—Pro Pari Chirothecarum dat. Dom. Powlett et Domine Fundatrici, xvi s. Idem, p. 185. See also p. 191, ubi sÆpe; and p. 411. "Pro Chirothecis Magistri Pope, xxxii s.

An article charged in the Bursar's books of Trinity College, Oxford, is "pro fumigatis Chirothecis." [Warton.] These were often given to College-Tenants, and Guests of Distinction; but this fell into disuse soon after the Reign of Charles I. Idem. [Grose.]

George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland, received a Glove from Queen Elizabeth. The Queen had dropped it, when he taking it up to return to her, she presented it to him as a mark of her esteem. He adorned it with Jewels, and wore it in the front of his Hat on days of Tournaments. It is expressed in a print of him by Robert White. [Bray's Tour, p. 319.]

See for Gloves worn in Hats, Old Plays, vol. ii. p. 132, second edition: King Lear, act iii. sc. 4. edit, 1778 by Johnson and Steevens.

N. B. Such Tokens as these were called Favours[375], from whence we derive the term for Ribbons given on Weddings. I presume they are supposed to be given by the hand of the Bride.

Dr. Glisson, in his last visit to Queen Elizabeth, received from her a Pair of rich Spanish leather Gloves, embossed on the backs and tops with gold embroidery, and fringed round with gold plate. The Queen, as he tells us, pulled them from her own Royal Hands, saying, "Here, Glisson, wear them for my sake." Life of Corinna (or Mrs. Eliz. Thomas), p. xxxi.

Perfumed Gloves[376]; v. supra.

"These Gloves the Count sent me; they are an excellent Perfume."

Much Ado about Nothing, act ii. sc. 4.

Gloves given at Weddings. Old Plays, vol. v. p. 8.

A Glove hung up in a Church, as a public Challenge. Gilpin's Life of Bernard Gilpin, by Mr. Gilpin, p. 179.

Swearing by Gloves, in jocular conversation, very common. "Aye, by these Gloves!" is an expression I have somewhere seen.

Ladies' Sleeves, as well as Gloves, were worn as tokens of Gallantry. Vide Troil. and Cress, act. v. sc. 2. edit. Johnson and Steevens, 1778.

Gifts that admitted of it (especially to Women from Men) were usually worn on the Sleeve.

"I knew her by this Jewel on her Sleeve."

Love's Labour Lost, act v. sc. 1.

Fairings, and such Tokens, were of this sort. Hence the Question and Answer.

Q. What have you brought me? (from the Fair, &c.)
A. A new nothing, to pin on your Sleeve.

Hence also to pin one's Faith upon another's Sleeve.

"Wear my Heart upon my Sleeve."

Othello, act i. sc. 1.

F. Grose, Esq. to S. Pegge, F. S. A.

September 4, 1784.

Dear Sir,

I have had such a variety of interruptions (agreeable ones), that I have made no hand of your Gloves: all that has occurred on that subject, I here send you.

Blood, who attempted to steal the Crown, presented Mr. Edwards, Keeper of the Jewel Office, with four Pair of White Gloves, as from his Wife, in gratitude for his civility to her in a pretended qualm or sickness. The whole transaction is in Maitland's History of London.

To give one's Glove was considered as a challenge. See Shakspeare, in Hen. V. It is still considered in that light by the Highlanders, of which I once saw an instance in Flanders. Dropping the Gauntlet, at the Coronation, is a kind of challenge.

When the Judge invites the Justices to dine with him at a County Assize, a Glove is handed about by the Crier or Clerk of the Court, who delivers the invitation; into this Glove every one invited puts a shilling.

A Bribe is called a Pair of Gloves.

In a Play, I think called the Twin Rivals, an Alderman presents his Glove, filled with Broad Pieces, to a Nobleman, as a Bribe to procure a Commission for his Son.

Item, for three dozen Leder Gloves, 12s. Vide Account of Henry VII. in Remembrancer's Office.

I set off next week for Christchurch, where I propose staying a month, or six weeks at farthest. My best wishes attend you and yours.

Adieu!

F. Grose.

ERMINE

Gentlewomen's Apparel.

What we call Ermine is an erroneous conception, for we give the name to White Fur tufted with Black, whereas it is the Black only that is properly Ermine, of which numberless instances may be produced, and this is one.

Powderings on her Bonnet.—This may require an explanation to those who are unacquainted with the language of that age. What we call Ermine, is a compound, which will bear a little analysis, for it is formed of the Fur of one animal, and the tip of the Tail of another. The White Ground is, properly speaking, Minever, so called from a Russian animal of that name. [v. Philips's Dictionary, in voce.] The Ermine is the Armenian Mouse, the tip of whose Tail is Black, which being placed as a falling tuft upon the Minever, forms what we collectively call Ermine, the value of which is enhanced the more, as one animal can afford but one tuft. [v. Bailey's Dict, in voce.] Every one of these tufts is termed a Powdering.

The Heralds make a distinction between the singular Ermine, and the Plural, Ermines; the latter, in their language, importing Black powdered with White: and they go into still more minute modifications, Erminois, &c.

Apparel for the Heads of Gentlewomen.

First, none shall wear an Ermine, or Lettice-Bonnet, unless she be a Gentlewoman born, having Arms.

Item, a Gentleman's Wife, she being a Gentlewoman born, shall wear an Ermine or Lettice Bonnet, having one Powdering in the Top. And if she be of honourable stock, to have two Powderings, one before another, in the Top.

Item, an Esquire's Wife to have two Powderings.

Item, an Esquire's Wife for the Body to wear five Powderings; and if she be of great Blood, two before, which maketh seven.

Item, a Knight's Wife to wear on her Bonnet, seven Powderings, or eight at the most, because of higher Blood, as before.

Item, a Banneret's Wife to wear ten Powderings.

Item, a Baron's Wife thirteen.

Item, a Viscount's [Wife] to wear eighteen.

Item, a Countess to wear twenty-four. And above that Estate the number convenient, at their pleasures.

Ex Bibl. Harl. No. 1776. fol. 31. b.

MOURNING.

The French Queens, before the Reign of Charles VIII. wore White upon the death of the King; and were called "Reines Blanches." It was changed to Black on the death of Charles VIII. 1498. [See P. Dan. Hist. iv. 590.]

In a Wardrobe account for half a year, to Lady-day 1684 (a MS. purchased by Mr. Brander at the sale of the Library of Geo. Scot, Esq. of Woolston-Hall, 1781), are the following entries for the King's Mourning.

"A Grey Coat lined with Murrey and White flowered Silk, with Gold Loops, and four Crape Hat-bands."

Again, "A Sad-coloured Silk Coat, lined with Gold-striped Lutestring, with Silver-and-Silk Buttons; and a Purple Crape Hatband."

Again, "A Purple Coat."

The Emperor Leopold, who died 1705, never shaved his Beard during the time of Mourning, which often lasted for a long time. [Bancks's Hist. of Austria, p. 277.]

The Empress-Dowagers never lay aside their Mourning, and even their Apartments are hung with Black till their deaths. [Bancks's Hist. of Austria, p. 400. He says this from Baron Polnitz's Memoirs, vol. iv. p. 46.]

The Bavarian Family never give a Black Livery, or line their Coaches, in the deepest Mourning. [Polnitz, i. letter 22.]

The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their nearest Relations; as the Romans reckon it so great a happiness for a Family to have a Pope in it, that nothing ought to afflict his Holiness's kindred. [Polnitz's Memoirs, ii. letter 33.]

Queen Anne, on the death of Prince George of Denmark, wore Black and White, with a mixture of Purple in some part of her Dress. The precedent was taken from that worn by Mary Queen of Scots for the Earl of Darnley, which was exactly in point. [Secret History of England, ii. 299.]

King Charles I. put the Court into Mourning for one Day on the death of the Earl of Portland (Richard Weston), Lord High Treasurer. [Stafford's Letters, i. 389.]

BEARD, &c.
CHARLES I.[377]—WILLIAM I.

Mrs. Thomas's Great Grand-Father was Mr. Richard Shute, a Turkey Merchant, one of the Members for the City of London, and much favoured by King Charles I. who gave him the Name of Sattin-Shute, by way of distinction from another Branch of the same Name and Family, and from his usually wearing a Sattin Doublet cut upon White Taffata.

"Without doubt," says Mrs. Thomas (for she was her own Biographer), "he was very nice in the mode of that Age, his Valet being some hours every morning in starching his Beard, and curling his Whiskers; but," continues she, "during that time a Gentleman, whom he maintained as a Companion, always read to him on some useful subject." He lived in Leaden-Hall Street, the site on which stands the India House, and had a Country-seat at Berking, in Essex. Here he had a very fine Bowling-green, as he delighted much in that exercise. The King, who was fond of the diversion, once told Mr. Shute, he would dine with him some day, and try his skill on his Bowling-green. The King went, and was so pleased with the place, it being very retired, and likewise with Mr. Shute's skill in Bowling (he being accounted one of the best Bowlers of his time), that he frequently visited afterwards Berking-Hall, without any Guards, and with three or four select Gentlemen, his attendants, when, as the King expressed it, he had a mind to drop State, and enjoy himself as a private man:—"Ah, Shute," said he one day, with a deep sigh, "how much happier than I art thou, in this blessed retirement, free from the cares of a Crown, a factious Ministry, and rebellious Subjects!" They generally played high, and punctually paid their losings; and though Mr. Shute often won, yet the King would, one day, set higher than usual, and, having lost several games, gave over; when Mr. Shute said,—"An please your Majesty, One thousand pounds rubber more, perhaps Luck may turn:"—"No, Shute," replied the King, laying his hand gently on his shoulder, "Thou hast won the day, and much good may it do thee, but I must remember I have a Wife and Children." P. xxi.

This place was afterwards dismantled by Mr. Shute's heir, and in a few years became a ploughed field. The King gave Mr. Shute several places; among which were the Deputy Lieutenancy of the Ordnance, and the Mastership of St. Cross's Hospital, to the amount of four thousand pounds per annum. P. xxv.

These he gave up when the Civil War broke out; and retired to Hamburgh, where he died a few years after the death of the King. P. xxvii.

William the Conqueror played deep; for, tradition says, that Walter Fitzbourne, a Norman Knight, and great Favourite of the King, playing at Chess on a Summer's evening, on the banks of the Ouse, with the King, won all he played for. The King threw down the Board, saying he had nothing more to play for. "Sir," said Sir Walter, "here is land." "There is so," replied the King; "and if thou beatest me this Game also, thine be all the Land on this side the Bourne, or River, which thou canst see as thou sittest." He had the good fortune to win; and the King, clapping him on the shoulder, said, "Henceforth thou shalt no more be called Fitzbourne, but Ousebourne."' Hence it is supposed came the name of Osborne. Life of Corinna, p. xxviii.