Hotels. OddÓ, A. P., 12 to 40 pesos; Grand, A. P., 12 to 18 pesos; Francia, and Royal, about the same; others at lower prices.

Chief Points of Interest. Plaza de Armas; Cathedral and other buildings around; the Capitol; the Moneda; the Alameda; Parque CousiÑo; most important, Santa Lucia Park and the Cemetery; the Art Gallery.

Santiago, the capital and largest city of Chile, the third or fourth in size in South America, considered by some travelers to have the most beautiful location of any capital in the world except Rio de Janeiro, is situated on the river Mapocho in the long central valley of Chile, at an elevation of 2000 feet. Founded by the doughty warrior and Spanish invader, friend and almost counterpart of Francisco Pizarro, Pedro de Valdivia, it was by him planned and laid out in 1541 after he had first built a fort on Santa Lucia hill, an excellent site for the purpose, recalling the ancient Greek Acropolis or some of the mediÆval strongholds. On account of the too great dispersion of the invaders, the settlement for some years had a hard struggle for existence, but during its century of independence it has grown rapidly. Its population, now approaching 400,000, is ten times as great as when independence was declared in 1810.

The site is indisputably one of remarkable beauty and picturesque charm, without any interference with the convenience of a large city. The hills in and on the edge of the city, rising like small islands abruptly from the plain, do not preclude long level streets, yet form a peculiar and admirable embellishment, while east and west, the mountains of the Great Cordillera and of the Coast Range, which a few miles away rise as lofty ramparts to the ethereal blue, are an ever sublime and noble contrast to the verdant smiling plain.

The climate of Santiago, which at 33° S. has about the same latitude as Charleston and San Diego N., is considered excellent; though the three winter months, in dwellings destitute of heating apparatus, seem rather cool indoors to residents of the United States. In the summer, though not extremely hot, it is very dusty, so that wealthy residents at this season escape to ViÑa del Mar or other seashore resorts, to the beautiful lake region, to the springs and baths among the mountains, or even to the fjords in the distant south. An amusing mot of a German is related by one who did not seem to appreciate it. “The climate of Santiago is good but it is very unhealthy.” And both statements have been quite true, the latter inexcusably so, resulting from the fact that ordinary sanitary measures have been neglected. The medical congress in 1911 was held in the midst of an epidemic of smallpox. There has been a woeful lack of sewerage. But happily the officials have at last come to realize the importance of sanitation, an adequate system of sewerage is now installed, and doubtless other deficiencies will soon be remedied.

From the fine large railway station on the outskirts of the city, a carriage or tram car may be taken to one of the hotels near the center, a mile or more distant. To secure rooms at the OddÓ, for many years regarded as the leading hotel of Santiago, it is often necessary to engage rooms in advance, as both main building and annexes are generally crowded. The OddÓ, near the Plaza de Armas, is on one of the principal streets, the Ahumada, 327, the annexes on another at right angles with this, the HuÉrfanos, 976 and 1012, all three in the heart of the city. The Grand Hotel, preferred by some, is close by, HuÉrfanos 1164. Other hotels approximating these are the Hotel Francia, finely located on the south side of the Plaza, and the Royal. Prices at the first two are likely to be 15 or 18 pesos a day, with morning coffee, one peso, as an extra. Other hotels of more modest price and accommodations are the Fornos, Brinck, Frances, and Imperial on the Alameda, the MilÁn, Estado 130, the Biarritz, and near the station the Meloossi.

At the OddÓ Hotel, a surprising and pleasant custom in 1911 was that morning and evening the newspapers, El Mercurio and Las Ultimas Noticias, were thrust under the door of my room, the first in time to enjoy with my morning coffee. Whether this was by the courtesy of the hotel proprietor or the newspaper management (both papers having the same publishers) I am unable to state. Rather expecting to find them charged on my bill, I was agreeably disappointed that they were not. To the tourist coming down the West Coast the newspapers of Chile are a surprise. Those of Peru and Bolivia though often with able editorials are small, and contain but a modicum of foreign news, especially of the United States; and the little there is from our own country is largely gossip. But in Chile, as on the East Coast, it is different. The Mercurio is a newspaper of world-wide reputation and of advanced age, exceeded by few in the United States. Originally founded in Valparaiso in 1827, a Santiago edition was started in 1900, the two papers now being published with the same editorials, cables, and general news, though differing in local matters. The proprietor is Mr. AugustÍn Edwards, a member of a wealthy banking house and a large owner and president of the CompaÑia Sud-Americana de Vapores. The buildings in which they are housed, and the contents of these papers are superior to most of those in larger cities of the United States. Besides good quarters for editors, reporters, and other employees, there are dining, reception, and assembly rooms, bed and bath rooms, and other features not found in our establishments. The editors are cultivated, well informed gentlemen, whose well written editorials on the chief topics of the day are read and become subjects of daily conversation among men of the upper class. More news in regard to foreign countries is printed than is usual in our metropolitan dailies. Distinguished strangers are interviewed, social life receives attention, commercial matters, sport, science, and literature all have their place. Las Ultimas Noticias, an evening paper with the same publishers, is of lighter character. Besides other good though less known dailies, Santiago has illustrated weeklies, the Zigzag, and Succesos, containing a record in pictures of the week’s happenings, cartoons and photographs of local and of world-wide interest. These are in compact magazine form of slightly less size and thickness than our monthlies.

Sight-seeing in Santiago naturally begins with the Plaza, the center of which is beautified by palm, orange, and fir trees, grass, fountains, and flower beds, among which are broad walks and benches. From the usual band stand Sunday, Thursday, and Saturday evenings concerts of good classical and operatic music are given, in summer from eight to ten p.m., in winter from six to seven. In the center of the Plaza is a statue by a famous Italian sculptor, Fagazarro, which represents Liberty breaking the chains of (Spanish) Slavery. The four crocodiles beneath with their mouths open indicate that this was originally intended for a fountain.

Around the Plaza are buildings of importance; on the west side, the Cathedral, originally constructed of stone on the site which Valdivia appointed for the first church to be erected in Chile. If the outside is not remarkable the interior is vast and imposing. On each side of the nave are large square pillars with images of Saints and Apostles. In the usual side chapels are various paintings by old masters and other objects of interest; a reclining life-size figure of San Francisco de Xavier, carved from the trunk of a pear tree, is considered of high artistic merit. This work was found in the monastery of the Jesuits when that Order was expelled from Chile in 1776. Another chapel on the same side, that of Santo Sacramento, contains a monstrance and altar of beautifully wrought silver more than two hundred years old, and also an antique, large swinging silver lamp. The choir stalls in the chancel are as usual of carved wood, also the throne of the Archbishop. In the sacristy is a large oil painting of The Last Supper, of the old Spanish school, and a crystal chandelier which hung in a room where the first Congress assembled, now the National Library. In the Cathedral are buried the three archbishops, the first, SeÑor VicuÑa Larrain, consecrated in 1841. The tomb of the second is noteworthy, elaborately carved of Carrara marble, with fluted columns and trailing vines, and the reclining figure of the archbishop in his stately robes. In front crouches a bronze lion. The stained glass windows deserve attention. The particularly fine organ is said to be equal in tone to that in St. Paul’s, London. It came here by accident, being on its way to Australia in a ship which was wrecked in the Straits of Magellan. Among the salvage was the organ which, purchased at a bargain, was brought to Santiago. The Cathedral should be visited at the earliest opportunity, as much of the time it is closed. Also it is to be observed that there is a strict rule here, rigidly enforced, against wearing hats into the churches. Unless a lady does not mind removing hers, it is well to devote a morning to the churches, wearing a lace scarf or veil over the head and thus having no bother. Next to the Cathedral is the Palace of the Archbishop.

On the north side of the Plaza at the corner next to the Cathedral is the Post Office, a modern well equipped structure, the telegraph office, and the Palace of the Provincial Governor. On the east side is the Portal McClure, back of which are many shops, and the Valparaiso Restaurant, said to be good. The German Club is above the restaurant. Under the portal are many venders, as also on the south side of the Plaza under the Portal Fernandez Concha, where especially are fruit and flower stalls: beautiful roses, jasmine, heliotrope, etc., grapes, figs, paltas, chirimoias and other fruits, according to the season.

Santiago is a city generally pleasing to tourists, even delightful, as one traveler asserts, who calls it the best place in South America for residence the whole year around and the only one attractive from a scenic, climatic and social point of view. This very critical writer who seems to have a special “grouch” against Rio de Janeiro, after seeing Lima revises his opinion to a degree, then declaring that only Buenos Aires, Santiago, and Lima appear desirable places to live in and of the three he rather prefers Lima. Per contra, another great traveler who stayed in Lima not long enough really to see it, from his superficial view thought it much over-rated, this showing, with a possible difference in taste, the error of a too hasty judgment.

But not to make undue comparisons, Santiago is a charming city, much larger, obviously, and more modern and European than cosy and courtly Lima, or strange and remote La Paz. Its attractions will surprise many and all will be loath to leave.

It has a fine system of electric cars with a device which in our cities might be adopted to very great advantage. The cars of the various routes, in addition to the names of streets or destinations which they bear, are all numbered, with figures at the top large enough to be visible for a block or two. On the calle Ahumada you will see cars numbered 15, 17, 20, 24, etc. Should you wish to go to the Park, you may take No. 19 on HuÉrfanos. The hotel people or any resident will tell you what cars you may take and where, for any given point, or you will find a complete list in Scott’s Guide Book.

After seeing the Plaza, one may take No. 19 there for Parque CousiÑo, or a cab or automobile for a drive about the city. In 1911 the paving on many streets was so rough that the cars were preferred by many; yet one conversant with the city could for the most part keep to smooth roadways and visit nearly all sections.

The business quarter of the city is chiefly between the Plaza and the Alameda, extending also to the west. All of these streets are rather narrow with a single car track on one side, the cars as in Lima going by one route and returning by another to the starting point. In this section are many excellent shops of all kinds, the hotels, banks, and the government buildings. Of the last the Capitol is naturally the finest, occupying a whole square a little west of the Cathedral. On two sides of this large handsome structure are beautifully kept gardens, with magnolias, heliotrope, and other flowers. In the garden on the east front is a beautiful marble madonna in an attitude of mourning or prayer, with four kneeling angels at her feet. An inscription records that this is a memorial to the victims of the fire, December 8, 1863, witness of the undying love and grief of the people ten years later. The church of the Jesuits, then consumed with 2000 victims, formerly stood on this spot.

Of the four entrances, this on the east is to the CÁmara de Diputados above, that on the west to the CÁmara de Senadores. Both Chambers are like small theaters with four rows of seats raised one above another, each with a small table and writing material in front. There is a high carved dais for the President. A dome of colored glass forms the roof. In the Senatorial Chamber is a painting by Valenzuela Llanos representing the first Congress, July 4, 1811, held in the National Library near by. The building has wide marble staircases, rooms for the President, for secretaries, some designed for discussion and conversation; also a large handsome Congress Hall where the President reads his message at the same time to both Houses, and to the Diplomats. To the two galleries of the hall, friends are admitted by ticket for the opening of Congress, an impressive and ceremonious occasion. This building is heated by steam pipes, a wonderful innovation, making it comfortable even to Americans.

The official residence of the President is in the Palacio de la Moneda which contains also his offices and those of the Ministers of the Interior, Finance, and Foreign Relations, as well as the quarters of the Mint. This building, between the streets Morande and Teatinos, faces the Plaza de la Moneda, which is ornamented with fountains and flower beds, and a statue of an able Minister, Don Diego Portales, noted for his uprightness. The Palacio with its two large patios occupies an entire square. By a curious mistake plans designed for a Government House in Mexico City were sent here, and so pleased the Chilians that they decided to use them. Opposite the Palace on the north side of the Plaza is the Ministry of War and Marine; on the west side is the British Legation. The United States Legation is well located on the Alameda. On the east side of the Palace on Morande street, facing the entrance to the Mint is the Ministry of Public Works. On the Plaza Moneda band concerts occur Tuesdays and Fridays at the same hours as those on the other Plaza.

The most notable street in the city is the Avenida de las Delicias, commonly called the Alameda, a beautiful park-like promenade 600 feet wide, extending four miles from beyond the hill park, Santa Lucia, to the Quinta Normal and Central Railway Station. Here formerly was the river bed of the Mapocho, now farther to the north. The transformation was due to General O’Higgins. The central parkway has four rows of trees, oaks, elms, acacias; little canals of running water and many monuments of soldiers, statesmen, and scientists of Chile. Next to the parkway on each side are electric car tracks, and beyond, broad boulevards for carriages, bordered by wide sidewalks and many handsome residences. Near the calle Ahumada stands a monument to the brothers, Miguel Luis and Gregorio Victor AmunÁtegui, the elder, a patriot of marked distinction in civil life who served as Minister under several administrations. A remarkable speaker among people distinguished for their oratory, he died in 1888, greatly mourned.

Proceeding down the Avenue one passes a bust of Abate Molina, a noted naturalist and author of the eighteenth century. A Natural History of the Country of Chile was his chief work. There follows a bust of JosÉ Miguel Infante, a great philanthropist who was one of the foremost in the struggle for independence.

Next is the most striking of the memorials in the Alameda, a bronze statue of General Bernardo O’Higgins on horseback, represented as on his famous retreat from Rancagua. Bernardo, born in Chillan, Chile, and educated in England, was the son of an Irishman Ambrose O’Higgins who after living some time in Spain settled in Chile, where he was made Governor in 1778. Bernardo entering the army in 1813 became commander, and as previously related took part in most of the revolutionary struggles, later becoming Supreme Dictator. In spite of an excellent administration, after a few years he was requested to resign, which he promptly and patriotically did, then withdrawing to Peru. Some years later, influenced by President Bulnes, the Chilians tardily recalled the disinterested patriot and were preparing to receive him with due honor when, as about to set out on his return, in 1845 he died. In 1868 his remains were brought back by a Commission of the Government and interred in the General Cemetery.

A little farther, on the left, stands a life-size figure of Carrera, JosÉ Miguel: the most noted of three brothers, ardent patriots in the struggle for independence, but of misdirected zeal; all three executed in Mendoza by the Argentines, JosÉ, the last, without a trial, Sept. 4, 1821. The bodies of the three were by order of Congress brought in 1828 to Santiago and buried in the CompaÑia Church.

Some distance beyond is the monument of another general and dictator, Don Ramon Freire, also distinguished in the War of Independence and called by O’Higgins, the bravest of the brave. Later engaging in civil war and being defeated in the battle of Lircai in 1830, he too went to Peru, but returned before his death in 1853.

The next monument, between calles San Martin and Manuel RodrÍguez, is to the great hero who is honored in every city, General San Martin, sometimes called the Hannibal of the Andes. Though receiving scant honor in his later life, after his death in 1850 his memory was cherished. This bronze equestrian statue, erected by public subscription in 1863, represents the hero holding a flag which is surmounted by a small figure of Liberty.

Beyond this point, the Alameda is still wider, with flower beds and shrubs beautifying the central promenade. On the right is a statue to the grandson of an Irishman, Don Benjamin VicuÑa Mackenna, a distinguished historian who initiated many important works for the improvement of the city: the enclosing with stone embankment the Mapocho River, the adornment of Santa Lucia, and the idea of encircling the city by a belt of trees to prevent straggling and undue extension. His death occurred in 1889.

Between the streets Ejercito and Almirante is a statue unusual if not unique in character, being erected by the citizens of Santiago in honor of the city of Buenos Aires. The last monument is an obelisk to the memory of four writers of the Revolutionary period.