In all Spanish American countries the parks are an important feature. In some respects the most beautiful, and one absolutely unique in character, is that of Santa Lucia, which, however highly praised, is almost certain to surpass expectation. The last of a row of detached hills, it made in the early days a splendid stronghold against the Indians. When no longer needed as a fort it became a quarry, then a burial ground for Jews, infidels, and Protestants, whose bones would have defiled the consecrated ground of the Catholic Cemetery. But in 1872 these were removed to the new Protestant Cemetery by the side of that occupied by the faithful, and the hill was converted into a wonderfully beautiful park. About three-quarters of a mile southeast of the Plaza de Armas, it is a pleasant walk, or it may be reached by several lines of cars. Covering a surface of six or seven acres it rises in irregular, jagged, sometimes perpendicular walls, gradually narrowing to a pavilion-covered summit 400 feet above, whence on a clear day, and especially at sunset, there is an enchanting view. The city is spread out below, distinct in every feature, surrounded by the broad expanse of fertile plain 40 miles long and 18 wide, fringed by ranges of steep hills and mountains, the latter on the east snow-crowned and forming a splendid rampart 15,000 feet tall. Aconcagua, visible from the sea and from Valparaiso, is unseen here on account of the nearer approach to the lower peaks in front, behind which it disappears from view. As often as time permits will those who delight in nature’s beauty climb this hill (splendid exercise, too) to see the sunset glow on the snow-capped mountains, especially when a slightly clouded sky gives assurance of lovely hues and the certainty of a truly enchanting scene.

Almost as beautiful to look at as to look from is this Cerro which natural and artificial charms render unique among all cities. Embellished by public and private munificence, especially by Benjamin Mackenna, the hill is a mass of green and blossoms, luxuriant graceful vines, shrubs, and trees, among which are glimpses of stairs and roadways, rock cliffs and walls, towers and battlements, chapels and monuments, the whole a combination of exceeding loveliness.

The most imposing entrance to this hill park is from the Plaza VicuÑa Mackenna near the Alameda, where stands a recently erected statue of the gentleman, a fine bronze figure, at its foot a seated Fame holding in her hand a wreath of laurel. Entering the carriage drive (fee 5 centavos for a pedestrian, 40 centavos for a carriage) a large brass plate may be noticed, a memorial to Mackenna, here placed by the city. On a great boulder back of this is a bronze Flora or Melpomene with inscription giving the date of the inauguration of the Park, Sept. 17, 1874. On the other side of the boulder is inscribed Huelen, the ancient Indian name for the hill, signifying misfortune or sorrow, a curious name for so superb a feature of the landscape. A little farther are two bronze lions, copies of the famous ones at Florence. Beyond the next corner of the winding road is the foundation stone of an old Spanish bridge formerly stretching to the inscribed boulder. Built in 1787 it was destroyed in 1888. Halfway up the hill is a small door in a perpendicular rock wall, the entrance to the Seismological Observatory, where record is made of the numerous ’quakes, and of the observations conducted by M. le Conde de Montessus Ballores. A little higher the carriage road ends on a wide terrace in front of a spacious restaurant, well patronized for dining, especially during the summer, when an orchestra discourses sweet music. At the left of the road is a slab commemorating the removal of the bones of the heretics once buried here. The inscription reads: “In memory of those exiled from Heaven and Earth who in this place lay buried for half a century, 1820-1872.”

Beyond one must proceed on foot. On attaining the summit, having viewed with admiration the lovely prospect, one may notice close at hand, a little below, a castellated gateway, above which is an ancient Spanish escutcheon here found buried. From the gateway a narrow flight of steps leads to a small chapel where Benj. Mackenna is interred and where services are held on the anniversary of his death. Looking over the parapet one may see below the remnants of an old gateway surmounted by two small Spanish guns. A little farther down is a monument to the first archbishop of Santiago. The statue of Pedro de Valdivia, on the spot where he built his fort, deserves especial heed. The inscription reads: “The valiant Captain of Estremadura, first Governor of Chile, who in this very spot encamped his band of 150 conquerors, Dec. 13, 1540. Giving to these rocks the name of Santa Lucia and forming of them a bastion he planned and founded the city of Santiago, Feb. 12, 1541.” To see all the points of beauty and interest one must ramble on foot by the pretty paths leading in every direction to charming nooks or delightful outlooks. At noon a cannon at the summit of the hill is daily discharged by electricity from the Observatory in the Quinta Normal on the other side of the city. A second and less picturesque entrance to the Park, affording a more gradual ascent is well enough to leave by, but is not a suitable introduction to this genuine fairy land.

Very different, and more like any other, is the Parque CousiÑo several miles distant. To see this at its best, one should go in carriage or auto together with the fashionables, between the hours of 5 and 7.30 p.m., when, particularly in the months September to December inclusive, it is thronged with fine horses and carriages, bearing the beauty and fashion of Santiago. Woods, pleasant walks, well kept gardens, beautiful shrubs, weeping willows drooping over a pretty lake, adorn the park; a good restaurant provides almuerzo, afternoon tea, and dinner, the latter at four pesos, well patronized and usually accompanied by music. There are cheap cafÉs, merry-go-rounds, and stands for dancing, where on Sunday may be seen the peculiar national dance of the Indians, La Cueca, where the couples face each other, handkerchief in hand, and dance with swaying gestures. In summer a biograph is usually in operation and twice a week a military band plays from 9 to 11 p.m., when the park is often crowded. Near the entrance is a large open grass plot with a pavilion in the center, where a Military Review takes place Sept. 19. Bicycle races and football games are sports of the youthful Chilians, who take more kindly to athletics than the young men of some other countries. A lawn tennis club also is found here. The electric cars numbered 19 come to the restaurant in the park, number 18 to the gate only.

This Park was presented to the city by the famous SeÑora Isadora CousiÑo, who was the richest woman in Chile before her marriage to the richest man in the country. He, dying, left all his property to her, as it was said that she had administered her estate better than he had his. The SeÑora, now deceased, being worth many millions in mines, railroads, steamships, cattle, and real estate, was a woman of so lavish expenditures as to cause much gossip even in Europe. Her residence in Santiago, of the Ionic order of architecture, is one of the finest in South America. It was decorated by the French artists who adorned the Paris Opera House. Her magnificent palace at Loti, unfortunately incomplete, would undoubtedly surpass anything at Newport. Outside Santiago she had an immense hacienda extending to the mountains.

Another large park of different character, at the west of the town, reached by Car No. 2 from the Plaza de Armas, is called the Quinta Normal: a particularly desirable place for a drive, as the buildings here are at a considerable distance apart. The fine trees in this section, the green fields of the Agricultural College, and the Botanical Garden are a pleasure to see. Some persons may be interested, after driving about, to visit the Agricultural College, the Astronomical Observatory, the Meteorological Station, and the Riding School. The College established in 1845 by President Bulnes has been of much benefit. A cattle show is held here annually. The Botanical Garden, though not large, deserves a visit. It has some fine specimens of the Victoria Regia and other aquatic plants, with a nice old German in charge. Apart from this garden is a nursery where flowers, shrubs, and plants of great variety are grown for the stocking of public gardens and parks. The Zoological Garden in this quarter does not amount to much beyond presenting many natives of Chile; condors, eagles, vultures, with others, in an aviary of Chilian birds; and domestic animals including some fine fowls. There are a few bears and monkeys.

The Natural History Museum, also in this Quinta (north side), contains a very complete collection of Chilian birds, fishes, insects, and plants, made chiefly by a celebrated German naturalist, Dr. Otto Philippi. Another section of greater interest to many, contains Indian mummies, specimens of pottery, weapons, and relics of colonial days. In 1911 the Museum was open Sundays and Thursdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., but was expected later to be open daily. A good restaurant pleasantly situated and well patronized is opposite the calle Catedral not far from the Museum. An entire day is not too much to devote to seeing the Quinta by persons with taste for these matters, in which case the restaurant would be serviceable. The School of Arts and Trades for the training of mechanics and tradesmen is located on the south side of the Quinta not far from the Central Station.

Beyond the Parque CousiÑo is the Club HÍpico or race course on the outskirts of the city, with fine views of the Coast Cordilleras and the Andes. Sunday afternoons and feast days races are held beginning at 1.30, but most persons do not arrive until four. From August to the end of December the whole city, meaning of course Society, is said weekly to assemble there. In the Diez y ocho week, from the 17th to the 20th of September, it is difficult to get near the Pavilion. There is a special enclosure for members, and behind the Pavilion are little gardens where people go to take tea and meet their friends. Tickets, three pesos to the pavilion, five more to enter the paddock, may be bought after 7 p.m. Saturdays at the Cigarria La France, Portal FernÁndez Concha, 18; in the Centro HÍpico, Pasaje Balmaceda, an arcade running from HuÉrfanos to the Plaza; or at the entrance of the enclosure. Races on Saturday, frequented more by sporting men than by Society, are at the HipÓdromo on the north side of the river.

Along the bank of the Mapocho is another park, long and narrow, called the Forestal, which with the embankment and bridges forms a very pretty section of the city. At one end, in the Plaza Italia or Colon, is a monument presented to the city by the Italian colonists as a centenary gift, and on the opposite side of the beautiful Palace of Arts, in the Plaza France, is one similarly presented by the French colony. The Palacio de Bellas Artes has a great Statuary Hall with some fine copies and the best original work of native Chilians. Nine spacious rooms contain a collection of paintings, including some originals of old masters and many by modern Chilian artists. The arrangement of the building is excellent and the whole is a great credit to the city. A smaller park is the Plaza de Montt-Varas in the calle CompaÑia between Bandera and Morande, on one side of which is the fine new Palace of Justice occupying a whole block. In the park is a statue of a scholar, a native of Venezuela, Don Andres Bello, a seated figure by Don Nicenor Plaza. Bello, 1789-1865, was so highly regarded by the Chilians that they declared him by works and public services to be a true Chilian, and by a special law of Congress declared him a citizen. Another statue is of two friends from college days, Don Manuel Montt, ten years President of Chile, and Don Antonio Varas, who worked together to promote the welfare of the country.

Housed in the old Congress Hall on Catedral street is the National Library which, with many books, contains a valuable collection of historical documents, some of these, spoils brought from Lima, and others, their own colonial archives: a place of much interest to the scholar and antiquarian.

The Market, seldom a show place in cities of the United States, everywhere in South America is an object of interest. Here it was one of the benefactions of Benj. Mackenna. Best seen early Sunday morning, it may be reached by following the 21st of May street from the northeast corner of the Plaza. Besides the usual and unusual profusion of fruits, vegetables, flowers, etc., may here be found tiny baskets made by nuns, and little jugs of earthenware and mates, some extremely minute. Another market on the north side of the river is especially for vegetables.

A visit to the Municipal Theater or Opera House should not be omitted. Erected as long ago as 1873, it probably surpasses anything of the kind in the United States, certainly presenting a finer exterior. An imposing entrance hall has wide staircases leading to the upper row of boxes. The Presidential box is large and elegantly furnished with reception rooms, etc., at the back, and a box for his lady guests below. There is a large foyer and refreshment rooms, and there are seats for an audience of 4000. The opera season, though short, is brilliant, with a company every year brought from Italy for a month or more. Society is present in full force in immaculate evening dress, gorgeous gowns, and sparkling jewels, a spectacle of beauty, it is said, equaling that in any opera house of the world.

Santiago has many beautiful homes and pleasing residences, though less in the pure Spanish style than in Peru: fewer wide doorways admitting horsemen, and apparently smaller patios, of which one has but a rare glimpse. Among noticeably fine residences are the CousiÑo on Diez y ocho, the Edwards on Catedral, corner Morande, the Umeneta, Monjitas street; on the Alameda, the Concha y Toro between Brazil and San Miguel, the Ramon Valdez between 18 and Castro, and the Quinta Meiggs between Republica and EspaÑa, this having fifty or more rooms with elaborate furnishings.

An excursion which may be made by carriage, or by a good walker on foot, is to the top of Cerro San ChristÓbal, 900 feet above the city. A more superb view than from Santa Lucia is here afforded. At this point of vantage is an Observatory, a branch of the noted Lick Observatory of California. It is in charge of an American, Dr. Moore, and was established by the late D. O. Mills. Lower down on a prominent bluff is a colossal Image of the Virgin with arms outstretched towards the city as if in blessing. The pedestal contains a small chapel in which services are held December 8, the anniversary of her festival. On this night the statue, which with its pedestal is 70 feet high, is illuminated so as to be visible to the whole city. It is said to have been erected by women as a token of gratitude for their preservation from the earthquake, and also to celebrate the jubilee of the declaration of the Immaculate Conception.

The most important feature of the city to be visited, aside from Santa Lucia, is,—the Cemetery. Let no one be surprised and say that he does not care to visit such places. There are other cathedrals, plazas, public buildings, etc., but this again is unique and in many respects the most beautiful resting place for the dead that I have seen in any land; especially in November, the month of roses. A French lady resident, who did not find much else to please her, was most enthusiastic over this. It may be reached by Car No. 8 from the Plaza de Armas. In front of the cemetery is a semi-circular plaza with a colonnade. The gateway is surmounted by a lofty dome, which bears a fine colossal group of statuary, Adam and Eve mourning the death of Abel. The whole effect is imposing. In the corridors of the entrance may be noticed the painted ceilings, and passing within one will observe a stately chapel where masses are said for the repose of the dear departed. Here in truth is a city of the dead, with streets laid out at right angles, many of these lined with beautiful houses, rows and rows of chapel-like tombs. In other places are statues, columns, and memorials in various forms. Some of the avenues are shaded by orange trees, magnolias, and the JacarandÁ or Brazilian rosewood; others have the tall, stately, and more gloomy cypress; but when the roses blossom there is such a wealth of these that there is no gloom anywhere. They are of various kinds and colors, but most numerous, genuine large white roses which grow in great vines sometimes on trees to a height of thirty feet, or over the tombs, forming the most lovely framework imaginable. At the festival of All Saints, November 1, the sight is unequaled in any part of the world, as here this is at the height of the rose season, when there is also a profusion of other flowers. The immense masses of bouquets and floral devices of all kinds then placed upon the tombs and graves, even the poorest on account of the small cost of flowers being able to contribute, make of the already delightful spot a veritable floral bower. Among noticeable monuments are a bronze bust, near the entrance, on a black marble column, to the litterateur, Andres Bello; in the calle Central in the rear of the chapel is the white marble tomb of General Bernardo O’Higgins. Fifty yards to the right and then turning to the left, one finds the memorial erected over the remains of more than 2000 victims of the holocaust in the Jesuit Church, the CompaÑia, Dec. 8, 1863, when a gorgeous fÊte to the Virgin was in progress. The decorations of paper flowers and festoons of gauze which were interspersed with lighted candles, taking fire, fell among the crowd, chiefly women of the higher classes who thronged the church. The doors opening inward, the crowds, packed against them, made egress impossible, and nearly 3000 are said to have perished. Few of the leading families escaped bereavement and since that time this festival has been solemnized with mourning.

The tombs of many of the Presidents are found on a street of that name, and on the Magnolia are many of real beauty belonging to some of the leading families. In the high wall of the enclosure which covers many acres are niches for the reception of the coffins of the poorer people. At the left of the General Cemetery as one faces the entrance from without is that where the Protestants are buried, naturally much smaller and far less attractive.

On the way to the Cemetery one may pass on the Avendia Recoleta the Church of the Recoleta Dominica which deserves a call. The faÇade presents a fine row of marble columns, the only edifice in the city furnished with such decoration. The doors are of carved wood. The interior is severely beautiful, avoiding the tawdriness exhibited in many Catholic churches. There are double rows of handsome marble columns with Corinthian capitals, a white marble chancel screen of trellis work, and above the high altar a marble Madonna del Rosario. The marble, imported from Italy, was brought in ox-carts from the coast. Pretty cloisters are adjoining.

In the same avenue a little nearer the city, at the foot of Cerro Blanco, is a small church rather dilapidated, La ViÑita; of historical interest as erected by Ines JuÁrez, who came with Pedro de Valdivia, a woman of extraordinary courage both for enduring the hard life, and even going into battle; if necessary engaging in combat, when not attending to the wounded of both parties.

Santiago is an extremely religious place, so far at least as the women are concerned, the gentlemen often being inclined to agnosticism. Among the many churches the most important may be mentioned. La Merced at the corner of Merced and Claras is painted a pale pink and has two towers. At the main entrance on Claras, on each side of the carved wooden doors are two life-size paintings, on the right, of RamÓn Monato, on the left, of San Pedro Nolasco who founded the Order Mercedarios. Within, the objects of interest are a wooden crucifix with notably expressive eyes, a gift from Philip II of Spain to the Order in Chile, an antique frame of solid silver near the High Altar enclosing a statue of the Virgin, and an old pulpit of native workmanship carved from a single tree trunk. The four Evangelists are represented and at the base the four Symbols. The church has an excellent organ and is famed for its fine music.

The Santo Domingo, one of the oldest churches in Santiago, at the corner of Santo Domingo and the 21 de Mayo, has a beautiful silver altar exhibited on especial occasions only. The little plaza in front is gay with a small flower market, and nearly opposite on Santo Domingo is an old Spanish gateway.

The San Pedro is a pretty little church in Claras near by.

The large church of San AugustÍn, fronting on the Estado has a ceiling covered with pictures of Saints, Prophets, Martyrs, and also the Ten Commandments. A valued relic is a crucifix, concerning which it is related that in the total destruction of the church by an earthquake in 1730 this suffered no injury except that the crown of thorns fell from the head to the neck, and that whenever an attempt was made to replace the crown shocks occurred in the vicinity; it therefore remains where it fell. On the anniversary, May 13, occurs a great procession of monks and acolytes of various Orders, chanting, swinging incense; and with lighted candles, bearing beautifully embroidered banners, a robed figure of the Virgin, and the Crucifix.

El Salvador, church of the Jesuits, erected after the destruction of the CompaÑia in 1863, is on the HuÉrfanos and Almirante Barroso, passed by Car 21. This church was damaged by the earthquake of 1906, though Santiago was far less affected than Valparaiso. The interior is gay with colors, each pillar being composed of small columns of various hues, which are covered with designs in red, blue, and gold. An angel at the foot of each column holds a plaque with emblems of the Passion. Handsome stained glass windows portray scenes from the life of Christ.

The San Francisco in the Alameda, almost opposite calle San Antonio, said to have been built by Valdivia, is plain with a flat ceiling and one simple arch. All around are memorial tablets: on the left of the chancel is a fine marble Crucifix in relief. Of great interest as a historical relic, over the High Altar is the wooden image of the Virgin in velvet robes embroidered with gold, which Valdivia used to carry in his saddle-bags. Presented to the church by the brave Captain, it is highly valued. On the right of the altar is a small chapel to St. Anthony, on the extreme left, one to Our Lady, with altar of colored marbles and two angels above.

The University of Chile may be visited by those interested in educational matters. It has several departments, the main building on the Alameda, occupying the block between San Diego and Arturo Prat. Here are the general offices, the University Library and the Department of Physical and Natural Sciences termed the Engineering School. A hall in the form of a theater is in the part of the building which separates the two patios. A new Engineering building in the suburbs was to receive this Department, then to be replaced by the Law School, the largest of the various branches. In the Quinta Normal is the building of the Medical School with handsome classical faÇade, containing large halls, and patios ornamented with shrubs and flowers. There is a modern building for the Dental School and an annex for Pharmacy. It is interesting to note that in most of the South American countries coeducation is rigorously avoided in the lower schools while permitted in most of the universities, conditions exactly opposite to those in some parts of the United States. A good number of women in Chile study medicine, dentistry, pharmacy, etc., with the men.

The Military School on the Avenue Blanco Encalada facing the Diez y ocho now occupies a fine large building after a checkered career. Founded March 16, 1817, by the Supreme Director Bernardo O’Higgins, it is the oldest in South America, though it has experienced several interruptions. The present edifice was decreed in 1887 by the progressive but unfortunate President Balmaceda, though not until 1903 did it become established as now existing. The school has as its head a German officer, Col. Alfred Schoenmeyer, and provides courses of instruction similar to those in the German institutions. The building contains all suitable conditions of convenience and hygiene, a covered riding school, shooting galleries, patio facilities for gymnastics, laboratories of science and of military models.

The Military Museum, in 1911 housed in the Arsenales de Guerra next to the Military School, by 1913 will probably be removed to a new building erected for it in the Quinta Normal. It contains many historical relics: the armor worn by Valdivia during the conquest, a chair which he occasionally used in the brief intervals from fighting, cannon brought over the Andes by Gen. San Martin to aid in freeing the country of Spanish dominion; a marble urn enclosing the hearts of four heroes who fell in the battle of ConcepciÓn in the effort to save the Chilian colors from the hands of their Peruvian opponents; the flag of the Esmeralda, commanded by Arturo Prat, and sunk in the battle of Iquique May 21, 1879; a marble bust of Manuel Rodriguez who, in the War of Independence, among other brave deeds as scout and spy, three times crossed the Andes on foot; other objects of interest, besides cannon, flags, arms, and trophies won in many a fierce battle.