Callao. The harbor of Callao, six or seven days direct from Panama, in contrast to the ports where the ship has previously called, presents an attractive picture. If the arrival is in the early evening the brilliant and extensive display of lights indicates a considerable city and a wide array of shipping. By day one will admire the varied landscape, the busy docks and the city in front, the verdure of the Rimac Valley at the left with its scattered enclosing heights often partly hidden by clouds, and the contrasting bluffs of the islands San Lorenzo and Fronton on the right, which, with the long sandy bar called La Punta extending a mile out from the city, form a well protected harbor. Of the few such on the West Coast this alone has been actively utilized. Unfortunately the other chief commercial ports are open roadsteads. In 1537, two years after the founding of Lima, a city was established at the port, where soon there was a busy harbor, with vessels bringing all kinds of merchandise from Europe, and departing laden with rich cargoes of gold and silver and a few other products. In the early colonial days Callao was several times pillaged by pirates, but later suffered a far greater calamity, exceeding the recent disasters at Valparaiso and San Francisco, and paralleled only by the fate of Port Royal. October 28, 1746, a terrible earthquake occurred, accompanied by a tidal wave which engulfed the city, destroying all, save one or two, of the 6000 inhabitants. The site sank beneath the ocean. The present city was rebuilt to the north of the earlier settlement. Many ships lie at anchor in its harbor, some at the docks, others outside: sailing vessels, large steamers, both passenger and freight, a half-dozen men of war, Peruvian, British, perhaps American, the last probably flying the only United States flag visible. Seldom does a ship approach the docks on arrival, and not at all if its stay is to be short. The freight is discharged into lighters, the passengers with their baggage into rowboats. As the water is always smooth, this, though inconvenient and an additional expense, is no great hardship. The fare to the shore is 40 centavos. A bargain should be made with the fletero, as the men are called who have numbers on their hats indicating that they are duly licensed. These men will take charge of your luggage, large pieces and small, delivering it safely at your hotel in Lima. They are likely to ask double what it is worth, not in comparison with New York prices, but with what it is needful to pay. The Lima Express Company has a fixed tariff of 1.50 soles for a large trunk, 80 centavos for each piece of hand baggage, although for several a reduction may be made. The figure agreed upon should include the fee for taking both passengers and baggage, except that the passenger will often make his own way from the dock to his hotel in Lima. Stipulation should be made for the delivery of the baggage within two or three hours, though it may then arrive much later. What one carries one’s self should not be counted. If undecided what hotel to patronize one may arrange with the fletero for half price to conduct him and to transport his baggage to the railway station, where it may be checked to Lima. Trains every half hour, fare 20 ctvs. Leaving it at the station Desamparados in Lima, a block from the principal plaza, the tourist may look about and arrange where to go. Persons who have decided in advance may go with the fletero to the railway station or, after passing the customs examination at the dock, may turn to the right, then left, and walk a block or so to the electric cars which run every ten minutes to Lima, a ride of about twenty minutes through the center of Callao, and along a broad boulevard to the larger city eight miles distant. From the end of the line in Lima it is a walk of four blocks to the left and one to the right to the Hotel Maury; or a cab may be taken (fare for one or two persons, 40 centavos), to the destination desired.

The tourist on landing will give Callao but a passing glance, and is likely to return only to embark on his departure; but a few points of interest may be mentioned. A floating dry dock belonging to the Peruvian Steamship Company will receive ships of 7000 tons within the space of two hours. The city is of foreign aspect, with buildings of one or two stories. Noticeable are the women with stands of strange and familiar fruits and other edibles. The newsboys seem natural; the electric cars are of the best quality, some with compartments of the first and second class, with prices to Lima, 20 and 10 centavos respectively. Among many narrow streets are some wide ones; two or three small but respectable hotels afford accommodation at modest prices, one sol a day for a room, or at double the rate and more. There are several large plazas, (open squares) and a few Clubs, the English with good quarters fronting the bay, and with a fine view from the balconies, the Italian, Centro Naval, Union, Boat Club, etc. Among the churches, hospitals, and public edifices, the most noticeable is the Aduana or Custom house, which is seen at the right from the car as it is passing through the first plaza. Of the churches, that of La MatrÍz is most important. The plaza in front is adorned with a statue of General San Martin; the Plaza Grau has a handsome monument to the celebrated Admiral of that name; while in the square called Dos de Mayo is a marble pillar surmounted by a bust of JosÉ Galvez, Minister of War, killed in the naval battle at Callao, May, 1866. Should one desire further information as to shops or other matters, inquiry may be made at the importing house of W. R. Grace of New York (ask for Casa Grace); or at one of the steamship offices, all of which are near the landing.

Peruvian History

For the fuller enjoyment and appreciation of Lima, a little more history may be an advantage. The heroes of Peru are many. The names of a few will often be heard, and a knowledge of their valiant deeds, a slight acquaintance with Spanish American History, is desirable.

After the news of the Conquest had been carried to Charles V together with the royal fifth of the gold treasure obtained by Pizarro, the Conqueror received an additional grant of seventy leagues of land to the south of the two hundred previously bestowed, which began in Ecuador about one degree north of the equator. To Almagro, Pizarro’s partner, was given two hundred leagues south of this dominion. Just where the dividing line ran was a matter of dispute, each claiming that Cuzco lay in his territory. However, a truce was declared until Hernando Pizarro should arrive with the documents, Almagro meanwhile setting out in 1535 on what proved to be an arduous and futile expedition for the conquest of Chile. On his return he again set up his claim to Cuzco. A contest with Hernando Pizarro ensued; Almagro gained possession of the ancient city, but was later put to death there by order of his old friend and ally, Francisco Pizarro. The claim of Almagro’s son to his father’s territory then being denied, this so enraged the followers of that brave and generous chieftain that they resolved to avenge his wrongs. Rushing into the house of Pizarro they slew him before he could arm himself to resist. Thus in 1541 perished the Conqueror after a few brief years in the enjoyment of his astonishing success.

For nearly three centuries afterward, Peru was governed by a Viceroy, who until 1740 had authority over the whole of Spanish South America. The Viceroy was assisted by a Real Audiencia, consisting of four oidores or judges who possessed extensive civil and criminal powers. Another Audiencia was also established at Chuquisaca, Sucre, in Alto Peru, now Bolivia. During the colonial days the Indians were greatly oppressed by the Spanish residents, who drew vast wealth from the mines and lived in luxury and splendor. At the same time the colonists suffered various vicissitudes, attacks by pirates, an epidemic of smallpox, two severe earthquakes in 1687 and 1746, and insurrections of the Indians; but in the main the country was prosperous.

For centuries the spirit of loyalty remained, but the North American and the French revolutions encouraged the spread of liberal ideas, which events in Spain made easier to be carried into execution. Although the Viceroy, Fernando Abascal, whose administration lasted from 1806 to 1816, made many concessions and improvements, it was impossible to stem the tide. After the abdication of Charles IV of Spain in 1808 in favor of his son Ferdinand VII, and the subsequent crowning of Joseph Bonaparte as king, orders were sent out for the colonists to transfer their allegiance to the new ruler. It happened, however, that a decree of Charles V in 1530, confirmed by Philip II in 1563, had authorized the colonies in case of emergency to convoke Juntas or political assemblies. These convening in the various colonial capitals declared loyalty to the banished King Ferdinand and refused to recognize the authority of Spain while in the hands of a usurper. The leaders were already planning ultimate independence, but the masses were not yet weaned from their loyalty. In Buenos Aires the Viceroy was expelled without trouble, but in the other colonies the struggle was severe and prolonged. In Lima the Viceroy employed harsh measures against the patriots. In 1809 royalist troops were sent from here to Quito, and an army under General Goyeneche to Alto Peru, to oppose the revolutionists. February 13, 1812, independence was proclaimed at HuÁnuco, in 1814 at Cuzco; but at length the royalists everywhere gained the day, so that when Abascal retired to Spain in 1816, Buenos Aires alone remained in the hands of the patriots. Nevertheless, the successor of Abascal, General Pezuela, was the last of the Viceroys. Although Ferdinand was now restored to the throne of Spain, the spirit in favor of independence had become general. With an empty treasury, and general disorder in the departments of government, the Viceroy found himself confronted by a resurrection of the enemy who, after victories in the south and north, at length advanced upon Peru.

First came the Liberating Army from the south, organized in Mendoza by General San Martin, who, in 1817, had overthrown the royalists in Chile. Landing near Pisco, 122 miles south of Lima, September 7, 1820, General San Martin issued, September 8, a proclamation stating that he had come to liberate the people, not to make conquests. Robbery was prohibited; and bloodshed, except on the field of battle. The Viceroy proposed a conference which was held at Miraflores without result.

An army of 1000 soldiers under General Arenales, dispatched by San Martin from Pisco to the interior, after gaining many recruits defeated a royalist force near Cerro de Pasco. Meantime San Martin had proceeded to Ancon just north of Lima, and then to Huaura near Huacho, while Admiral Cochrane, with his new Chilian fleet, captured by surprise at night the Spanish frigate Esmeralda in the port of Callao. In January, 1821, the Viceroy abdicated and returned to Spain leaving in command General La Serna, who withdrew to the interior on the advance of the patriot army. July 12, 1821, San Martin entered the capital; July 28, which is regarded as Peru’s Independence Day, proclamation was made in the Plaza in front of the palace—“From this moment Peru is free and independent by the will of the people and by the justice of their cause which God defends.”

San Martin, now called the Protector, after organizing a provisional government and arranging for a national congress went to Guayaquil to meet General Simon BolÍvar, who, having freed Venezuela and Colombia, was coming from the north. The particulars of the conference were not revealed. A disagreement was evident. San Martin, returning, resigned the government into the hands of the Constituent Congress which met in 1822, and withdrew to Argentina and Europe. The assembly conferred on him the title of Founder of Liberty of Peru, decreed a life pension and other honors; but the pension probably lapsed, as San Martin died in comparative poverty in 1850 at the age of seventy-two. The hero’s patriotism, courage, skill, unselfish devotion, high principles, and sterling character make him worthy to stand with the noblest patriots of history. His name in South America is honored as is that of Washington in North America, and with equal justice. It should be known among us, as is Washington’s among them.

General BolÍvar arrived in Lima September 1, 1823, and was invested with supreme power. There were now two armies of royalist troops in the interior; in July, 1824, the Liberating Army of the North began its march from the sea over the mountains to Cerro de Pasco. The two armies met, August 5, on the plain of JunÍn, where the patriots gained a complete victory. General Canterac, commander of the royalist forces, retired to Cuzco, where he was joined by the southern army under Valdez. The patriots under General Sucre proceeded to the Apurimac Valley. December 9, 1824, the two armies met in the hard-fought battle of Ayacucho, which resulted in a brilliant victory for the patriots and ended Spanish dominion in America.

BolÍvar was made President of Peru for life, the Colombian troops were voted a magnificent reward; but in 1827 BolÍvar retired to Colombia. Of the troublous times following, up to the war with Chile, little need be said. The name of Manuel Pardo may be mentioned, founder of the Civil Party and President from 1872 to 1876, an able statesman, scholar, and patriot, who was assassinated in 1878 while President of the Senate.

The War of the Pacific broke out in 1879, when Peru, in accordance with a treaty secretly made with that country, went to the assistance of Bolivia, after the Chilians had seized Antofagasta, then a port of Bolivia, on account of a quarrel over an export tax on nitrate. A noted naval engagement occurred off the coast of Iquique, when the Peruvian ship Huascar under Admiral Grau sank the Chilian Esmeralda under the heroic Captain Arturo Prat, who lost his life in the engagement. To his widow, Admiral Grau, with kindly spirit, sent a letter of sympathy with some relics which Prat had carried. The other Peruvian vessel, the Independencia, pursuing the Chilian Covadonga, ran upon hidden rocks and became a total wreck, a misfortune which proved a death blow to Peru. For four months Admiral Grau kept the Chilians at bay, but at last, October 8, he was obliged to fight the two Chilian ironclads at once. A shell striking the tower killed Admiral Grau. His four successors in command, one after another, met the same fate. When forced to surrender one-third of the entire force of 193 men had been killed or wounded. The coast, 1400 miles long, was now exposed to the enemy, and in November, 1870, the Chilians began a series of attacks, all of which were successful, excepting the battle of TarapacÁ. Many Peruvians met a heroic death, notably Bolognesi and others at Arica. In 1881 occurred the battles of Chorillos and Miraflores and the capture of Lima by the Chilians, who remained in possession of the city until the treaty of Ancon was signed, October, 1883.

According to the terms of this treaty, the province of TarapacÁ was ceded to Chile, while Tacna and Arica were yielded for ten years, at the expiration of which time the residents were to vote whether they would continue as a part of Chile or return to their former allegiance. The fact that the provinces have remained under control of Chile without any such vote being taken, has for years been a cause of ill-feeling between the two countries, which at times have seemed on the verge of war.