Hotels. Grand Hotel Maury, A. P., 6 to 20 soles per day. E. P., 2 soles up; Grand Hotel, A. P., 6 to 10 soles; Hotel Cardinal, E. P., 2 soles up. Excellent restaurant, reasonable.

Restaurants. Jardin Estrasburgo, and Marron’s, excellent, fashionable restaurants; Berlin, German home-cooking restaurant.

Carriage Rates. 40 ctvs. a course, for one or two; by the hour, S. 1.50.

Post Office boxes in hotel. Postage rates, Peru, letters, 5 ctvs.; cards, 2 ctvs.; United States and Europe, letters, 12 ctvs.; cards, 4 ctvs. Population of Lima, about 150,000.

Chief Points of Interest

Plaza de Armas, Cathedral, Government Palace, Portales, Plaza de la InquisiciÓn, Senate Chamber, Hall of Congress, Market, Exposition Palace, Museum, and Park, Paseo Colon, Botanical Garden, ChristÓbal Hill. Excursions on Oroya Railway, and to Chorillos.

The monthly magazine, Peru Today, contains a Visitors’ Guide and other valuable information. The weekly paper, The West Coast Leader, is of interest and service.

To be comfortably settled for a few days or weeks is of the first importance. Few will criticise the statement that the hotel par excellence of Lima is the Maury, often called the best on the entire West Coast. A New York club-man whom I met there with his East Indian valet, declared that nowhere else in the world had he found so excellent a table at so moderate a cost. One here meets travelers, distinguished and undistinguished, foreign diplomats, and other resident and transient guests from all quarters of the globe. With its main entrances near the corner of Ucayali and Carabaya streets, the Maury extends through the block to Huallaga. The section at this corner, called the Francia y Ingleterra, the French and English, was formerly a separate establishment. Though now a part of the Maury it preserves its old name, with its own room-clerks, and entrance on Huallaga. At the corner of the Plaza de Armas, the heart of the city, it has many rooms with balconies looking across the Plaza to the Government Palace and Municipal Building, while opposite the front is the side of the great Cathedral. In spite of the proximity of the Cathedral bells, which ring oft and loud, many persons prefer this end of the hotel on account of the pleasant outlook and the better circulation of air. It is, however, quite a walk through the corridors to the dining-rooms at the other end, and some distance to the bathrooms. So the majority prefer the Maury side, where the rooms are more elegantly furnished, the suites have larger parlors, a few have private baths, all have higher prices. The rates including meals are from six soles a day up to twenty, according to accommodations. Coffee and rolls are usually served in the rooms at the hour desired; almuerzo—breakfast, is from eleven to two; dinner from 5.30 to eight. At each of these meals there are half a dozen kinds of soup, several varieties of fish, 15 to 20 hot entrÉes, 10 or 12 cold dishes, and several vegetables; at breakfast, steak, chops, and eggs in any form, at dinner several roasts, and, most unusual in South American cities, five or six kinds of desserts. Also there is always fruit, at least oranges, bananas, and granadillas somewhat like a pomegranate. At almuerzo, strawberries may usually be had for the asking, though never on the bill of fare, while chirimoias, sometimes called custard apples, may be obtained with a considerable extra charge, this fruit being everywhere the most expensive variety. On the street or at the market they may be purchased for one-third the price at the hotel, from 10 to 40 centavos apiece according to the size. An Englishman once complained that the roast beef and mutton were not such as he had at home, and he didn’t care for the other things, fussed-up dishes; but most persons, like the New Yorker, rejoice in what is provided, at least for a reasonable time, especially if they have come from plateau or desert or from almost anywhere. The seÑoritas, which are not young ladies but resemble scallops, and the crabs and lobsters, are particularly fine. The Maury has also two or three annexes where rooms may be secured, and meals taken as desired. In the hotel, too, rooms alone may be procured, with meals À la carte in a different dining-room, or elsewhere at one’s option. An excellent orchestra provides music of the best quality; at the Maury from 12 to 2 daily, and at the Exposition Restaurant under the same management, in the Zoological Gardens, from 5.30 to 11.30. A steam laundry is connected with the establishment; of course there are electric lights, as at all hotels, and in all cities of any size throughout the tour. Generally a button will be found near the head of the bed by which the light may be extinguished after retiring.

The Grand Hotel is on Huallaga street in the next block beyond the French and English; similar to the Maury, with good rooms and table at slightly lower prices, and preferred by many. Of cheaper hotels, the Cardinal has a reputation for excellent meals À la carte at moderate prices; this being situated on what is often called the main street, calle de la Union, half a block from the Plaza. The Jardin Estrasburgo, on the Plaza, opposite the Cathedral, is a restaurant of the first order, where meals are regularly served, and ices and refreshments at all hours. A European orchestra provides vocal and instrumental music. Opposite the Palace, under the portales is the Confiserie Marron. Afternoon tea and dinner are accompanied by pictures from a cinematograph, and by orchestral music. All tastes and purses are provided for.

Comfortably settled in a hotel, one will first enjoy a stroll on the Plaza de Armas, the real center of the city, important for its historic associations and for its present activities. For nearly three centuries the capital of Spanish South America and the seat of the Viceroys, Lima is a city the true history of which surpasses romantic legends: a place of wonderful charm to those who tarry long, the home of a courtly, cultivated society of agreeable, hospitable people, though somewhat exclusive withal, as are the social leaders generally in the large South American cities. To be from New York, Chicago, even Boston, is not an open sesame to the homes of Spanish American wealth and culture. However, the passing tourist will have brief time to make acquaintances; the few Peruvians whom he may casually meet are likely to make a favorable impression, except upon those who regard courtesy as a waste of time.

The Plaza de Armas or Plaza Major was selected by Pizarro himself as the center of the city. The site was well chosen in proximity to the fine harbor of Callao, yet somewhat back from the water for safety from the buccaneers who in those days infested the seas. Although at the foot of the great Andes, off-shoots from which come down to the water’s edge, the city is on practically level ground; for the hills about, as in general all along the coast, rise abruptly, like islands, from a flat surface, instead of the whole country being hilly and rolling as on our Atlantic shore. These small detached mountains, which make a pretty and effective background when they are not concealed by fog, are largely responsible for the disagreeable mist which in the winter season makes the climate rather unpleasantly damp and chill.

The chief part of the city is on the left or south bank of the Rimac River, by the side of which runs the Central Railway from Callao up to Oroya; the main station of Lima, Desemparados, being one block from the Plaza. As is customary, a pretty garden with flowers, trees, and shrubbery occupies a large part of the square, which has besides the usual band stand a bronze fountain in the center, no doubt the oldest in America, as it was presented to the city in 1578.

The great Cathedral, on the southeast side of the Square, built of gray stone with two towers, is the earliest and largest in South America. Although the Spanish invaders manifested little of the spirit of the Christ they professed to worship, they were ardent supporters of what they regarded as the true faith and were eager to establish everywhere the rites of their religion. Thus Francisco Pizarro, the cruel and perfidious conqueror, had no sooner selected the site of the city designed to be his capital, and drawn a plan of the streets and plazas than he himself laid the corner stone of the church, January 18, 1535. The first structure, though five years in building, was naturally of no grand proportions. But Lima soon becoming a metropolitan see with an archbishop, it was deemed fitting to build a great Cathedral. With interruptions and changes of design it was 1625 before the splendid edifice was finished and consecrated. This done the bones of Pizarro were transferred thither, where they still remain. After a little more than a century this building was laid in ruins by the earthquake which in 1746 destroyed Callao; it was then reconstructed on the same site, though with less magnificence than before. The Cathedral has five naves, and ten chapels along the sides. In the Chapel of the Virgin on the left is a celebrated image, a gift from the Emperor Charles V, and under a glass case the remains of the Conqueror Pizarro, though their genuineness is a matter of dispute. The view in the central nave is imposing. The choir, said to be unequaled in America and seen to best advantage only on feast days when the high altar is illuminated, is distinguished by reason of the beautiful carving of the mahogany and cedar; the pulpit also shows handsome chiseling. In front is a Crucifix of ivory presented by Philip II, a valuable work of art. The solid silver altar and candlesticks are noteworthy. The unusually fine organ was made in Belgium. In the Chapel Arcediano, the Archdeacon’s, which was founded in 1600 by Don Juan Velasquez de Obando and dedicated to Santo Goribio and other sainted Limanians, is an original painting by Murillo representing Jesus and Veronica, presented to the church by SeÑor Luna Pizarro. In the chapel of St. Bartholomew are paintings of a celebrated artist, Mateo Alexio, who visited Lima near the close of the sixteenth century and who is here buried. On a sidewall is the most famous work of a noted artist, Matias Maestro, called the Consecration of the Cathedral, the gift of SeÑor Ocampo in 1625. In the chapel, La Purissima, of especially rich construction, is the sepulcher of SeÑor Morcillo with his statue by a distinguished Peruvian sculptor, SeÑor Baltazar GavilÁn. Here too are fine ivory carvings representing the apostles, presented by the Lima theologian, Dr. Feliciano de la Vega, who at his death in 1640 was Archbishop of Mexico. In the passage way connecting the church with the sacristy may be seen on the right a painting of the various saints native to Lima, by Matias Maestro. On the wall of the right gallery of the church, a painting by Lepiani represents Christ in Prayer. In the sacristy are portraits of all the Archbishops, a copy of a Rembrandt, some relics of the Inquisition, and a font of unusual style. By the side of the Cathedral is the residence of the archbishop, never suitably restored, and in its dilapidated condition marring the beauty of the Plaza.

On the northeast side of the Plaza is the historic residence of the Viceroys, now the Government Palace. Of the old colonial building, the scene of many gay and brilliant festivities in the days of great general wealth and viceregal splendor, nothing remains but the chapel with a handsome ceiling and with walls adorned with sixteenth century tiles reminding of Moorish art. No longer used for worship it is a store-house for archives. Around the several patios are suites used as offices of the various departments of government. Here may be found the Minister of Foreign Relations, the Minister of Justice and Education, etc.: also the apartment occupied by the President as his residence and for his offices. In the State dining-room banquets are occasionally given to distinguished guests, as to Secretary Root. During the Sessions of Congress, the President usually entertains at dinner the Members, seriatim, holding an informal reception after the dinner. The present occupant of the Presidential quarters, His Excellency Don Guillermo Billinghurst, a gentleman of English ancestry speaking fluently that language, was installed for a four-year term, not subject to re-election, September 24, 1912.

Although the main entrance to the patio of the palace is guarded by soldiers, an ordinary person is permitted to pass from the Plaza unquestioned. Commonly quiet and peaceful, on a day in May, 1909, there was here a scene of confusion and bloodshed. By a simultaneous attack made at each of the three entrances, the guards were overpowered and many of them slain, the rooms of the President were invaded, his secretary was murdered, and he himself was seized and carried to the street. Surrounded by horsemen he was dragged first one way then another, at length to the Plaza de la InquisiciÓn, where with a revolver at his head demand was made that he should sign an abdication. This, President Leguia with much courage resolutely refused to do. After being two hours in the hands of his enemies he was rescued, safe and sound, by soldiers who, firing upon his captors, succeeded in taking prisoner most of the ringleaders. Two years later they were tried and convicted: but to avert a probable insurrection they were immediately pardoned, when they were welcomed by the populace as heroes instead of the criminals they were. When such men seek to gratify their personal ambition at the cost of their country’s welfare, for which the first requisite is peace and steady constitutional government, if they received severe punishment and reprobation rather than honor, the attempts would cease and stable prosperity would be assured. An interview with the President, if especially desired may perhaps be secured through the United States Minister. His office and residence are in a garden called Quinta Heeren in the block Carmen Alto of the street JunÍn, which passes the front of the palace. The streets, it should be said, have many names, a different one for each block; but in addition to these local appellations, which are very confusing to strangers, they have names belonging to their entire length, so that the block names may sometimes be dispensed with.

On the northwest corner of the Plaza is the Municipal Building or City Hall, containing the office of the Mayor, in Lima termed the Alcalde. Here in 1906 Secretary Root was received by Mayor Elguera and the Town Council before going to the Palace to pay his respects to the President. The hall and municipal offices are above stairs, the street floor being occupied by shops of various kinds. Half a block from this corner, down the calle de Lima, a continuation of JunÍn, is the Post Office, where notices are posted of the opening and closing of mails in connection with the arrival and departure of steamers, and of trains to the interior. Postage stamps may be procured on the right and letters registered. On the left, letters are mailed in different slots according to where they are going, hence care should be exercised. After regular closing time double postage will secure the dispatch of letters for an hour or two longer. With fast mails to Panama but once a week, it is important to be in season. There are letter boxes also in the hotels and on the streets, from which collections are made by carriers. The northwest and southwest sides of the Plaza, on which are the portales, are equally interesting in their way. Here are shops of great variety, displaying large assortments of goods, besides venders under the arches with wares spread on the floor. The walks are generally thronged with people, for along here are also clubs and restaurants, the latter already referred to. The Clubs occupy apartments above the portales. The Union, at the corner opposite the French and English Hotel, has a series of handsome rooms where balls and banquets are occasionally given in honor of distinguished strangers and residents.

The streets of Lima are narrow, with the electric cars running so close to the curb that one needs to be rather careful, especially as the sidewalks are narrow also. Fortunately most of the buildings have but one or two stories, though a few of the later erections have three. Apart from the Plaza, the principal street for shopping is the calle de la Union, which passes across the Plaza in front of the Municipal Building. In the first two or three blocks from the Plaza there are drug stores, photographers, jewelry and book stores, shops of millinery and dry goods, etc., as on all the cross streets near. The fruit-sellers with little baskets of strawberries on long poles, the milkmaids perched high on mules or horses with great cans on each side, the ladies in manta, the close fitting black shawl, or the mantilla of lace, or in the latest Parisian modes, the cholos in plainer garb, the soldiers, the policemen ever blowing their whistles, the newsboys and news women, the sellers of lottery tickets, the fine private equipages, carriages and automobiles, and many many other things present variety sufficient to make an aimless stroll of continual interest. A glance into the open doorways away from the busiest streets usually reveals a paved court, sometimes with flowering plants or small trees, mayhap a fountain, and around the court the main rooms of the dwelling. A gem of typical colonial architecture, the old historic dwelling on the calle del Ucayali, a block from the Maury, should by all means be visited. It was the property of the Marquis de Torre Tagle and still belongs to his descendant, SeÑor Ortis de Ceballos, to whom is due its excellent condition. The massive stone doors, staircase, galleries, barred doors and windows, and the balconies both on the street and around the patio, present fine examples of the carving of that period. These may be examined by all. A wonderful collection of paintings in the possession of the family is not always on view. Inquiry as to the possibility of seeing it may be made by those who are especially interested. This extraordinary assemblage of more than eight hundred paintings of the classic schools contains works of Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Correggio, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Poussin, Velasquez, Murillo, and others.

An important private collection of ancient furniture, carved and inlaid with artistic merit, is the property of Dr. Javier Prado y Ugarteche, Minister of Foreign Relations in the administration of President Leguia, and Dean of the School of Law; another is that of Don Carlos Watson.

For evening entertainment there are several theaters, the Politeama, seating 2000, El Olimpo, smaller, the Chinese, and the New Municipal Theater seating 2000.

If disposed to take a morning stroll, one may walk along Huallaga street past the side of the Cathedral until he comes, after four blocks, to the largest of the four market buildings. This, called the Mercado de la ConcepciÓn, occupies a whole square. In the second block from the Plaza on the right hand side is an unpretentious drug store of Estremadoyro where for 5 centavos may be purchased a small envelope of Persian powder, very useful for the fleas. Elsewhere two or three times as much must be paid for the same quantity in less convenient form. At the end of this block is the fine building of the Bank of Peru and London. Other banks of various nationalities of Europe will be observed, but none of the United States. However, the House of W. R. Grace, which will be found by turning to the right at the end of the first block, a little way down on the left, will serve the purpose if one takes a draft on their house, when letters may be sent in their care. Continuing on Huallaga past the Bank of Peru and London, the interior of which is worth looking at, though you have no especial business within, you come to the fine Market with little shops and cafÉs along the front and sides. Within the large hall is a great display of fruits, flowers, vegetables, meat, butter, eggs, etc.; everything at very reasonable prices except the last two. Flowers may be had for a song, a bunch of roses for 20 centavos, 10 cents; not American Beauties to be sure, but old-fashioned tea roses and others of various colors, fresh and sweet. Tuberoses, mignonette, heliotrope, and other garden flowers are there in profusion. How one would rejoice at such opportunities in any of our cities! Twenty, a hundred such markets are needed in Manhattan alone. Luscious fruit of various kinds is always plentiful, most of it cheap. Two squares beyond the market one would come to what is now called Plaza Raimondi. Facing this is a great building for the Police Quarters, and just before that, one for the Society of Mining Engineers. In this Plaza the numerous Italian residents of Lima have recently erected a monument to the famous Italian engineer, Antonio Raimondi, who for many weary years wandered over the great territory of Peru, investigating its mineral resources, and making topographic observations which he embodied in a series of maps on a very large scale. Though not perfect in every detail, they are remarkably accurate in view of the difficulties under which he labored. One intending to make exploration in the interior should provide himself with Raimondi maps of the sections to be visited, these being on sale at two soles each at the large book stores in Lima. Crossing the Plaza to calle de JunÍn, the Church and Hospital of Santa Ana are on the right. Turning at JunÍn to the left, back towards the Plaza de Armas, at the next corner will be found the Casa de Moneda or Mint. This is not always open to the public but may be visited on one or two afternoons of the week, as may be ascertained by inquiry. The gold and silver coins here made are of the finest workmanship and of high-grade metal. The Numismatical Museum of the Mint contains a splendid collection of medals from all parts of the world, as well as copies of all those coined from the time of Independence to the present.

At the next corner on the left is the Church of St. Thomas and beyond that on the cross street is the Prison and the Correctional School for Women. On the following corner of JunÍn, at the right is the Church of Caridad, Charity, facing the Plaza of the InquisiciÓn. Turning here to the right we find in construction the new building for both Houses of Congress, while keeping straight ahead with the pretty garden on the right we should observe the handsome Doric portico of the building long used as the Senate Chamber, formerly occupied by the Tribunals of the Inquisition, which even on our Western Continent sought to stifle free thought. The Indians, luckily, were excused from its kindly ministrations, the only charity at that time extended to them. The ceiling of fine carved mahogany inspires admiration for its excellent workmanship of native skill. A mahogany table now used for writing the laws of the nation was formerly in service for drawing up the decrees of death. A noticeable feature of this Plaza is an equestrian Statue in bronze of the liberator, BolÍvar. Sculptured on the pedestal of white marble are bas-reliefs representing the battles of JunÍn and of Ayacucho. In spite of the thin atmosphere at a height equal to that of the top of Pike’s Peak, there was severe and gallant fighting on both sides.

One may return from here to the Plaza by calle JunÍn, or going one block to the right and then to the left may pass the Church and Plaza San Francisco. This imposing building contains in the sacristy a valuable collection of paintings; paneled ceilings with finely carved beams, and floor of blue tiles, in the cloisters; and carved stalls in the gallery. Following the car track to the left one soon returns to the Cathedral and Plaza.

Of the sixty-seven churches in Lima a few merit a visit. The most important are fortunately near the centre of the city. On the corner beyond the Post Office, as one goes from the Plaza, is the Church of Santo Domingo. The roof over the main entrance is spoken of as the richest and most elaborate work of art in Lima. In the floor of the first cloister the blue tilings laid in 1606 are noteworthy. The collection of paintings in the vestry includes a Murillo representing San Antonio, and a portrait of Santa Rosa by Matias Maestro. A celebrated chapel by Fray Martin de Porras contains a valuable collection of paintings by Roman Nicolette of the eighteenth century; fourteen works representing the twelve Apostles, St. Paul, and John the Baptist. Especially notable is a beautiful marble statue of Santa Rosa, standing on a silver pedestal which is studded with jewels. Santa Rosa, Isabel de Oliva, born in Peru in 1556, led a life so remarkable for its saintly purity that she was canonized by Pope Clement X, the only American ever distinguished by such an honor. She became patron saint of the whole of America, the West Indies, and the Philippines, her festival being celebrated August 30. Her remains repose in the church in the altar of Santa Rosa, on the base of which is portrayed in marble the scene of her deathbed. The church contains also a silver altar to Our Lady of the Rosary, a madonna with a rosary of large pearls, and relics of Fray Martin de Porras and others.

At the corner where the Church of St. Domingo is situated one may turn to the left, and after two blocks on the calle de CamanÁ he will reach the Church of St. AugustÍn where the stone faÇade in the baroco style, the choir, and the table of the vestry deserve attention. The organ is called the finest in Lima. The platform of the ancient chapter room, now the chapel of the college, and a painting of St. AugustÍn are of interest, but the distinguishing ornament of the church is a remarkable statue in wood representing Death, the work of a monk, Baltazar GavilÁn, who it is said died from the shock of seeing it during an attack of delirium tremens. Twelve oil portraits on copper of the Disciples, by an unknown artist, are called excellent in drawing, conception, and coloring.

After one block more on CamanÁ, and then one to the left, the Church of La Merced is reached on the corner of La Union and Ayacucho. This large and fashionable church has a high altar the front of which is silver elaborately worked. There are good carvings on some of the side altars, and paintings of merit in the sacristy. Continuing two blocks along Ayacucho and one to the left, one reaches San Pedro, the church of the Jesuits, also fashionable. The wood carvings of the entrance doorway and of the massive altar are worth seeing, also its burnished gold scroll work, the tiled wainscoting, and the paintings and carvings in the sacristy.

These churches are best seen during the forenoon, as in the afternoon they are often closed. There is an Anglo-American Episcopal Church on the calle de Carabaya in the sixth block from the Maury, Pacae 226, where service is held Sunday mornings at ten, others at varying hours. The chaplain, Rev. Archibald Nicol, lives next door, Pacae 228. At Callao there is another Anglo-American Church, not Episcopal, with services in English at 10.30 a.m. and 8.00 p.m., calle Teatro 25.

At least half a day should be devoted to a visit to the Palace of the Exposition which may be reached by electric car, down the calle de la Union, or by the calle de Abancay three blocks from the Maury in the opposite direction, as well as by carriage. By the former route one passes the Municipal Theater on Union street, and beyond, the square in which the Penitentiary is located. This building is called a model and may be visited by interested persons who procure a permit from the proper official. The next square is a handsome shaded park called the Parque Colon. This contains a monument to President Manuel Candamo, which was unveiled Sept. 8, 1912. On the farther side of the park is a pretty building, the Institute of Hygiene, fitted up with laboratories of the latest pattern for the analysis of water, foods, etc.

In the center of the Plaza where the cars turn is the Monument erected to the famous General San Martin, whose name is honored all over South America as that of Washington in North America, an equally sincere and disinterested patriot, a great general; less happy in his later life, though highly honored after his death. He is here represented proclaiming the independence of Peru. On the column is a winged female symbolizing Glory. This handsome monument was presented to the city by Col. Lorenzo Perez Roca.

The Exposition Palace is a large white building where the Chamber of Deputies temporarily meets and the Department of Fomento is housed; with halls where lectures and concerts are occasionally held and grand balls are given. It was the scene of two functions in honor of Secretary Root, the first when he was incorporated into the University of St. Mark as honorary member of the Faculty of Administrative and Political Sciences in the presence of the President of the Republic and other officials of the University and the State. Here, too, was given by the Town Council of Lima a magnificent ball in Mr. Root’s honor, to which 1500 invitations were issued. The elegance of the whole affair, in the decorations, gowns, refreshments, and other particulars was equal to that of similar functions in any part of the world. On the upper floor of the building is the National Historical and Anthropological Museum, open from 2 to 5 p.m. except on Monday. Over the latter section Dr. Max Uhle, a distinguished German scientist and a noted authority on prehistoric Peru, has long presided. The present Director is Emilio Gutierrez de Quintanilla. Dr. Uhle by excavations at PachacÁmac and elsewhere greatly enlarged this collection, probably the most valuable in existence in its own specialty. Some of the specimens of pottery are believed to have been produced previous to the Christian Era. The origin of the various articles and their period are indicated on the cases. Exceedingly curious and weird are many of the objects, and even one who has no taste for archÆological relics can hardly fail to be interested in the extraordinary, sometimes beautiful, examples of pottery, in the figures of Indians, in the mummies, and other objects. The examples of the strange articles used at the present day by the Indians in the remote montaÑa region equally impress the observer.

The relics of early colonial days, souvenirs of various battles, of the generals of the War of Independence, will be examined with sympathetic regard by the tourist who has some familiarity with Spanish American history. An Art Gallery with a number of historical paintings, and others of general character occupies one corner of the same floor.

In a smaller building to the northeast is a permanent industrial exhibition which the specialist only will care to study. Between these buildings is the entrance to the Park, for which a fee of 10 centavos is charged. This park of thirty acres is a delightful promenade with shaded walks, palm and other trees, artificial lakes, a kiosk, conservatories with orchids and various other plants; it is also a Zoological Garden. Here and there are cages of animals of various kinds, one a spacious and lofty dwelling for many birds, including a pair of the famous condors, which the tourist is not likely to see on the journey except in captivity. Bears and other animals are in other cages. In 1911 the finest pair of lions that I ever chanced to see, and four lively cubs excited admiration. Within the park at the left of the entrance is an excellent Restaurant kept by the proprietors of the Hotel Maury, a fashionable place to dine. Down beyond the Zoological Garden, on the side where the electrics go to Chorillos, is the Shooting Club of Lima and fields for cricket, tennis, and other sports.

The Avenue on which the Exposition Palace faces is named the 9th of December, but oftener called the Paseo Colon. It is the popular driveway, half a mile long and 150 feet wide, leading to the Plaza Bolognesi. Lined on the side towards the city with handsome modern residences, it has along the center a garden with trees, shrubs, and flowers, on each side of a broad walk. On the occasion of Secretary Root’s visit there were additional arrangements for electric lights, and on the evening after his arrival the Paseo was brilliantly illuminated with these, as well as by a splendid display of fireworks. The Paseo was thronged with people who enthusiastically welcomed their distinguished guest.

The Statue of Columbus on the Paseo must not be overlooked. He is represented as the Discoverer of America, which is personified by the Indian woman kneeling at his side. This was the model for the statue at Colon and was designed by Salvatore Revelli.

The Plaza Bolognesi is a spacious circle, a fine setting for the statue in the center to Col. Bolognesi, who fell at Arica in the war with Chile, June 8, 1880. When asked to surrender he replied, “Not till I have used my last cartridge,” and so fell. The statue represents the hero sinking with a mortal wound, yet still holding the flag of his country. Around the base of the column on which the hero stands are sculptured in marble allegorical scenes.

Six avenues are designed to radiate from this plaza, one, towards the center of the city, called the Central, to be a continuation of the calle de la Union. In the opposite direction extends the Avenue Pierola. On this a car track leads out to the suburb Magdalena, one of the pleasant shore resorts with which Lima is favored. Between this and the Avenue 9th of December is one leading to the Hippodrome. The races, generally held on Sunday afternoon, are attended by large crowds of fashionable and other people. The grandstand belongs to the Jockey Club, which has charge of the races and conducts them according to general custom.

Some distance beyond the Hippodrome is the School of Agriculture and the Sugar Experiment Station, both of these institutions well conducted and doing a valuable work for the promotion of agricultural industry. A great variety of plants is cultivated, and experiments are made with soils of many kinds. Instruction is given to a considerable number of students.

Proceeding from the Exposition Palace in the direction opposite to the Plaza Bolognesi, following the Avenue Grau, one would after a few blocks pass the Italian Hospital on the left, and a little farther reach the School of Arts and Crafts on the right, Escuela de Artes y Oficios, of which SeÑor Valente is director. Here are taught clay modeling and sculpture, decorative art and composition, the history of art and Æsthetics; and models of various works are usually to be seen. A foundry for art bronzes, it is hoped, will soon be added. Of still greater importance are the courses designed to produce honest and capable mechanics, which are well accomplishing their purpose.

In the next block on the left is the large building of the Medical School; the Raimondi Museum on the upper floor, open from eleven to twelve, has sections devoted to Botany, Ethnology, Zoology, etc. In the rear of the building is the Botanical Garden, containing specimens of every tree and plant to be found in Peru. Owing to the varied climates of the country arising from the difference in altitude, a wonderful diversity of productions results. The entrance is adorned with stately palms; gorgeous and beautiful flowers and shrubs will be found within. A pe tree bears a strange fruit, which, bursting open when ripe, shows within a pretty flower with scarlet seeds called the chusia. Cards of admission are obtained at the Medical School.

Continuing along the avenue one passes the large Dos de Mayo Hospital and still farther, on the Avenue of Circumvallation, the Cavalry Barracks and the Arsenal of War.

Other objects of interest are near the center of the city. The National Library is on the calle del Ucayali on the right hand side, at the end of the second block to the left or southeast of the one on which the Maury is situated. One of the first acts after the inauguration of the Republic, previous, indeed, to the final battles of the war, was the creation of the National Library. On the 17th of September, 1822, it was opened to the public with a collection of about 12,000 volumes, many of which were of great value. Unfortunately, while the Chilian army was in occupation of Lima in 1881, this library, then containing 50,000 works, was ruthlessly destroyed, a portion being carried to Chile, and the remainder scattered about the streets or sold at auction by weight. The later restoration of the library was chiefly due to Dr. Ricardo Palma, who remained its Director until 1912. Dr. Palma by diligent effort collected many of the old books and priceless manuscripts; many patriotic Peruvians made contributions; sympathetic nations, Spain, Argentina, Ecuador, the United States, sent gifts. A collection of 5000 volumes was presented by the Smithsonian Institute. In 1884 the library was reopened with 28,000 volumes; it now contains 60,000. Still in its old location, a building earlier occupied by the College of the Caciques, an institution for the education of the descendants of the Inca rulers, a new building is greatly needed and no doubt will soon be provided. SeÑor Manuel Gonzales is the present director. Among the treasures of the library is an edition of Cervantes’ works called the Argamosilla, printed from silver type.

In the same building on the floor above, are the rooms of the Lima Geographical Society, designed especially to foster geographical study and research in Peru. It has a considerable membership, including the most noted scholars and statesmen of the country; the library contains many valuable works and the leading geographical magazines of the world. The Society of Mining Engineers long had rooms in this building but have recently removed to their new quarters a few blocks away.

Turning the corner to the right by the side of the library building one will find at the next corner the Palace of Justice. One block more after a second turn to the right brings one to the calle de Azangaro, the Normal School for Girls occupying a considerable portion of the block on the right. The entrance is near the Church of San Pedro. Four blocks to the left down Azangaro, but fronting on the calle del Inambari, is the University of San Marcos, the oldest in the Western Hemisphere, founded in 1551, almost a century earlier than Harvard. Established under a charter from Emperor Charles V and his mother, Queen Joana, it was at first in the monastery of Santo Domingo and under the charge of that Order. Twenty years later by order of Philip II the University was secularized, and in 1574 it received the designation of San Marcos. In 1576 a building was constructed for its use in the Plaza de la InquisiciÓn. After two centuries in this location it was transferred to its present site, formerly that of the Jesuit college of San Carlos, then united with the University. Dr. Don Luis F. VillarÁn has been rector of the University since 1905. The University embraces Schools or Departments of Law, Medicine, Theology, Science, Philosophy and Letters, and Administrative and Political Science, in which a high standard of scholarship is maintained; the Medical School, as we have seen, occupies a separate building. The rooms are grouped around several patios. There is an assembly hall with a handsome carved ceiling, and in the museum are curious mummies. A University Review is published monthly. A few years ago a Centro was established, somewhat after the fashion of the Harvard Union. Women are admitted to the University.

The Engineering School is in quite another direction on the calle del Callao, four blocks from the southwest corner of the Plaza de Armas. This, established in 1876, continued under the direction of the Polish engineer, SeÑor Eduardo Habich, until his death in 1911. The school has complete laboratories, and courses in mining, civil, electric, and mechanical engineering; all of which in a country like Peru are of infinite importance.

The fine large school for boys in a splendid building on Avenue Alfonso Ugarte, the Collegio de Guadalupe, well deserves a visit.

The portion of Lima on the right bank of the river Rimac should not be ignored. Passing from the Plaza by Carabaya street, one comes to the fine new railway station of Desemparados, completed in the fall of 1912. After one block to the left a turn to the right leads one to the bridge across the Rimac, the river recently improved by being enclosed within a suitable channel. So much water is drawn off for irrigation all along its course that little is left in the ancient river bed. To one who wishes to see the life of the common people the walk affords good opportunity, but a drive to the Jardin de los Descalzos, the Garden of the Barefooted Friars, will be generally preferred. The garden extends half a mile or more along a broad avenue. It contains, besides plants and trees, handsome urns, marble benches, and twelve statues representing the Signs of the Zodiac. At the end is a fountain, and beyond, the ancient Church and Convent of the Friars under the shadow of the hill, San ChristÓbal. A path leads up from this point, but the more usual route is farther east. Returning from the Garden, one may take the first turn to the left, then one to the right past the Bull Ring, seating 8000 spectators and called the largest in the New World. It lies practically in front of the Balta Bridge, a modern structure named for one of the Presidents. The Bull Ring, said to be the second largest in the world, is on Sunday afternoons often thronged with spectators to witness this cruel sport, which will doubtless before many years be discontinued, as already at Buenos Aires and in most other cities of South America. Before returning by the Balta Bridge, the Alameda de Acho on the right hand should be visited. This was once a fashionable promenade and still boasts of large handsome trees, tall poplars forming three roadways.

It would be a pity to ignore the Cerro or Hill of San ChristÓbal, which rises 900 feet above the city. There is an easy path by which the ascent may be made, but for the benefit of the lame and the lazy an Aerial Tramway has recently been established; the transit requiring 8 or 10 minutes begins at Los BaÑos del Pueblo near the Alameda de los Descalzos. The summit on a clear day affords a delightful view of the city, the irrigated valley, the hills, the mountains, and the sea, which should well repay the effort of the climb, itself agreeable except to the incorrigibly indolent. More enticing than the view to some, will be the opportunity of visiting the Great Tower for Wireless Telegraphy, which rises 350 feet above the crest of the hill. It is, indeed, a triumph for wireless. Messages across the sea seem not so wonderful: but to send them over mountains and broad plateau, over or through a wall three and a half miles high and 100 miles thick appears marvellous. This wireless station, one of the highest powered in the world, has sent messages not only to Iquitos on the Amazon, 1030 kilometers away, for which purpose it was especially designed, in order to ensure communication between the central government and this important Peruvian commercial outpost, but also to Manaos in Brazil, 2300 kilometers (1435 miles) distant. The great mountain range between the two cities averages 18,000 feet in height, while beyond are dense tropical forests. The construction company did not venture to guarantee the success of an untried service, promising only to build an intermediate station if necessary. The great success of the undertaking renders this superfluous. The station at the other end is Itaya, two miles from Iquitos. The towers are identical, triangular steel structures, each weighing 120 tons. They rest on a concrete base by a steel ball point, insulated by thick glass plates. Each is kept vertical by means of three heavy steel cables at three angles. A power of 10 kilowatts is supplied but 7 only are used. The service was inaugurated June 16, 1912, with suitable ceremonies both at Lima and Iquitos. President Leguia, other officials and citizens to the number of 3000, made the ascent of the Cerro, though the hilltop was not large enough to contain all, the crowd as it were slipping over the edges. After various speeches the President started the machinery. At 5.05 a message of congratulation was sent and at 5.17 the reply was received. Then was unveiled a bronze tablet bearing the inscription in Spanish: “This station was inaugurated in 1912. His Excellency, Augusto B. Leguia, President of the Republic, Dr. JosÉ Manuel Garcia, Minister of Fomento, Dr. Edmundo N. de Habich, Director of Fomento, A. E. Tamayo and K. J. Holmvang, engineers in charge of construction. The Telefunken Company, June, 1912.”

A monument which should not be overlooked by the tourist is the Dos de Mayo standing in a circle, and passed by the electric cars to Callao. This monument commemorates the victory of May 2, 1866, when an attack of the Spanish fleet upon Callao was repelled and the Spaniards were finally driven from the Pacific coast. A column of Carrara marble 75 feet high is surmounted by a statue of victory. Around the base are figures representing the countries of Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, and Chile.