Points of Difference in Various Brands of Flour.

MUCH trouble in cooking arises from the difference in various brands of flour. There are often, indeed, variations in the same brand. All are caused by the different modes of making the flour, and changes in the kind of wheat used.

When flour is made by the roller process, two cupfuls will make a much stiffer batter than flour made by the old process of grinding between stones, or produced by first crushing by rollers and then grinding between stones. Millers all over the country are always looking for, and frequently making, improvements in the processes which they are accustomed to follow. This necessarily results in changes in the texture and quality of their products. Then, too, it makes a difference whether the wheat used is spring or winter wheat. In the Eastern States, where mills are few, the flour comes largely from Minnesota and other Western States. This flour has in the last fifteen or twenty years been made almost wholly by the roller process, and chiefly of spring wheat. The distinguishing quality of this flour is this: if rubbed between the fingers it feels rough and granular, and if pressed in the hand it will not hold its shape, but fall apart as granulated sugar would. When using this flour by measure, allow one eighth more wetting than for flour made by grinding between stones.

Recently a number of millers have modified the new process by using the rollers for cleansing, separating, and grinding until the last stages of the work, when the flour is put between stones and ground smooth and fine. When this is done the distinguishing features between the old and new processes are lost. This flour is smooth to the touch, will keep its shape if pressed in the hand, and will not absorb as much moisture as the more granular kind. It can be used equally well for bread, cake, and pastry. Some of the mills in New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michigan make this flour in perfection.

Flour that is made of new spring wheat will not give so good bread when first made as it will after it has been kept for a month or more. A great deal of the trouble with bread comes from this condition of the flour. A barrel of flour that will not make good bread to-day, simply because the wheat was too new when ground, will, if kept for two months, make perfect bread, if the yeast be good; for, after all, the yeast is more frequently than the flour the cause of failure to make satisfactory bread.

When one buys flour in small quantities there will always be an uncertainty as to how it will work until after the first time it is used. Even in small families it is better to get flour by the barrel, as it improves with age. Another thing for the housekeeper to remember is that the whitest flour is not the most nutritious. What is called first-quality flour does not contain nearly so large a quantity of the best elements of the wheat as the second quality, which is much darker, but gives a sweeter and more nutritious loaf.

It is wonderful to see the various processes through which the wheat goes before it comes out of the mill. There is no question that flour which is made by the roller process in the first stages and finally ground between the stones will give the most satisfaction. The wheat is more thoroughly cleaned than when the flour is made wholly by the old process, and the separation of the hard substance and the dust from the wheat is more thorough than by the old mode, and therefore when the flour comes from the millstones it is free from undesirable substances.

When and Why Soda, Cream of Tartar, and Baking

Powders are Used.

Soda may be used in all kinds of bread, cake, pudding, and griddle cakes where an acid also is used. The acid may be cream of tartar, vinegar, lemon juice, sour milk or cream, molasses, or something else. If two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar be used, there must be one teaspoonful of soda, save in cases where the cream of tartar is used only to give tone and firmness of texture to a pudding or cake in which only the whites of the eggs are employed,—such as many of the meringue puddings, and angel cake.

In puddings and cakes where molasses, lemon juice, or vinegar is used, soda should be used instead of baking powder, because the baking powder is a combination of an acid and alkali, and the proportions are so carefully adjusted that the two ingredients neutralize each other.

Sometimes a rule for cake or gingerbread calls for one teaspoonful of soda and one of cream of tartar. In such cases allowance is made for the acid in the molasses, or in the sour milk or cream that is used. Again, in making cake in which a good many eggs and wine or brandy are used, a small quantity of soda, but no cream of tartar, is called for. This is because there is enough acid in the wine and butter to neutralize the small quantity of soda and produce the required amount of carbonic acid gas.

It will be seen, by these statements, that the housekeeper who uses baking powder can do without cream of tartar, but she must be provided with soda when using molasses and sour milk and cream.

Soda should never be dissolved in hot water, because some of the gases would be liberated and wasted, and a greater amount of soda would be needed to make good this waste than if the soda were dissolved in cold water.

Housekeepers should remember, when making biscuit and dumplings with baking powder, that three teaspoonfuls of the powder will be required to make one quart of flour light. The manufacturers’ directions often call for only two, and the result is unsatisfactory.

About Whipping Cream.

Have the cream very cold. Put it in a bowl or pail, and set this dish in a pan of cold water,—ice water if possible. Have a large bowl or pan set in another pan of ice water. Place the whip-churn in the cream, tipping a little to one side, that the air and cream may be forced through the holes in the bottom of the churn. Draw the dasher up about one third the length of the cylinder; then press down. Let the upward stroke be light, and the downward stroke hard. If you will count time in this way: one, two; one, two,—it will insure a regular stroke, which is important.

When the bowl is full of froth, skim it off into the larger bowl, being careful not to skim too near the liquid cream. A little of the froth will become liquid, but this can be poured back into the bowl and whipped again.

The cream must be neither too thick nor too thin. If too thick, thin it with milk. When cream is too thick for whipping, the bubbles will be very small and the cream will hardly double in volume. This kind of cream makes most desserts too rich. When the cream is too thin, the bubbles will be large and clear, and will break when touched. Such cream as is sold at creameries as thick or heavy cream, and costs from fifty to eighty cents a quart,—depending on the locality,—will require a pint of milk to a pint of cream. The thin cream sold at the creameries is often too poor to be whipped.

The whip-churn is a tin cylinder, perforated on the bottom and sides, in which a dasher of tin, also perforated, can be easily moved up and down. When this churn is placed in a bowl of cream and the dasher is worked, air is forced through the cream, causing it to froth.

Good cream may be frothed with a whisk, or with an egg-beater, but the whip-churn described above is, to my mind, the most satisfactory for this work.

How to Prepare Bread Crumbs.

There are two methods of preparing bread crumbs. Such as are to be used for escaloped dishes or dishes prepared au gratin, etc., should always be grated. That means, of course, that stale bread—not dried bread—should be used. This gives light, fluffy crumbs.

For breading, pieces of bread should be dried in a slow oven until not a particle of moisture is left. The dried bread should then be put in a bag and pounded fine with a wooden mallet. Now rub the crumbs through a common flour sieve, and put them away in glass jars. There should always be kept on hand a good supply of these dry crumbs.

Breading Articles for Frying.

The albumen of the egg hardens so quickly when exposed to a high temperature that it is used as a protection for articles of food that lack albuminous matter enough on the surface instantly to form a hard coating. The egg does not take a fine, brown color; therefore, bread or cracker crumbs are used with it to give the food crispness and a rich color. Covering an article of food with egg and bread crumbs is called breading. Put the egg in a deep plate, and beat it thoroughly with a spoon, but not enough to make it light. Have the crumbs in another plate, or they may be spread in a thick bed on a board. Have the article that is to be breaded seasoned well with salt, and slightly with pepper, if the latter be used at all. Put the article in the egg, and with a tablespoon dip up and pour the egg over every part of it. Not a spot should escape the coating. With a broad-bladed knife lift the article from the egg, and roll it in the dried crumbs, being careful that every part is covered. Lay the breaded food on a flat dish or on the board until dry.

Never place one breaded article on another when drying or frying. When ready to fry, shake off the loose crumbs. Place in the wire basket, being careful not to crowd. Fish, meat, croquettes, etc., when dry after breading, may be placed in the refrigerator until the time for frying. They will keep for twelve hours or longer.

Sometimes a very thick crust is desired on some kinds of food. In that case bread all the articles, and when they are dry, give them a second coat of egg and crumbs.

Ways to Get Onion Juice.

Pare a fresh onion and bruise the side by striking with the dull edge of a knife; then press the flat side of the blade of the knife against the bruised place. The juice will fall in drops. If a large quantity be required, cut the onion fine, put it in a piece of cheese-cloth, and press in a lemon squeezer kept solely for this purpose.

Getting Rid of the Odor of Onions.

If the hands and the utensils which were used in preparing raw onions be thoroughly washed in cold water before soap or hot water touches them, the odor of the vegetable will disappear.

Stoning Raisins in an Easy Manner.

Stem the raisins, and, putting them in a bowl, cover with boiling water. Immediately pour off the water. This softens the skins and makes the raisins puff up so that the stones are removed with ease.

To Freshen Bread and Cake.

If you wish to freshen a stale loaf of bread or cake, put it in a deep pan, cover it closely and set it in rather a cool oven for about twenty minutes. The loaf will be almost as fresh as when first baked, but it must be used the same day, as it dries quickly when reheated in this manner.

Making a Bouquet of Sweet Herbs.

Tie together one spray of parsley, one sprig each of thyme and summer savory, one small leaf of sage, and one large bay leaf. This bouquet will flavor a gallon of soup. It must not cook in it for more than an hour. When only a small amount of soup or sauce is to be flavored, the bouquet should be cooked in the liquid but a short time,—perhaps from ten to twenty minutes.

Preventing a Meringue from Falling.

The means of preventing a meringue from falling when it is taken from the oven are simple. Usually the trouble arises from baking the meringue in too high a temperature. If you beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, then gradually beat in the powdered sugar (a generous tablespoonful for each white of an egg), put the meringue on the pie or pudding when partially cooled, and bake in a moderate oven, with the door open, for eighteen to twenty minutes, the annoyance may be avoided.

To Temper Iron and Earthen Ware.

Heat the iron slowly and then cool slowly. It is best, when it can be done, to grease the inside of the iron utensil and fill it with cold water; then heat the water gradually to the boiling point, and cool slowly. Earthenware is to be put in a kettle of cold water, which is then to be heated slowly to the boiling point, and cooled slowly. If convenient, put a little bran in the water.

Flour Paste.

Mix one heaped tablespoonful of flour with five of cold water. Pour on this a scant gill of boiling water, stirring all the time. Stir the mixture on the fire until it boils up, then strain.

What to do When Burning Accidents Occur.

There are many simple remedies which, in case of burning accidents, can be applied before the physician comes. So much immediate and future suffering can be averted by the prompt use of some remedy, that everybody should have fixed in mind some of the proper things to do. Slight burns, such as one often gets in the kitchen or laundry, can be relieved, and blistering be prevented, by coating the burned part with oil, lard, or butter, then covering with baking soda, and finally with a piece of linen. In a short time the pain will cease, and, unless the burn be very deep or the remedies be applied too late, there will be no blister. Lime water also is good for burns.

Children are often scalded by falling into hot water left within their reach, or by overturning some hot liquid upon themselves. In a case of scalding it must be remembered that the clothes clinging to the body are saturated with the hot liquid, and that as long as they are allowed to remain in this condition the heat will be kept in, and the burn become deeper. The first thing to do in a case of this kind is to pour cold water over the sufferer. This at once cools the clothing, which should afterward be taken off as gently but quickly as possible. Next pour sweet oil over the burns and cover them with soda, if you have it; if not, cover with soft linen cloths, and then wet with lime water. If there be no oil at hand, lard will do. The things at which to aim are, to cover the burn at once with some pure oily substance and then with soda or lime water, to take out the fire; to have the place covered with linen, which will not stick to the wound; and, finally, to cover closely from the air. Nothing is better for this purpose than a thin roll of cotton batting spread over the linen. Sometimes the cotton batting is saturated with oil and laid directly on the wound; but it is apt to cling to the flesh, and cause much trouble and suffering. A fine quality of cotton batting may be obtained at any druggist’s.

In every house there should be a closet or drawer on the first floor where a few simple remedies are kept. Here is a list for burns: a roll of old linen, such as handkerchiefs, napkins, pieces of table-cloths, sheets, and pillow-cases; a roll of cotton batting, a bottle of sweet oil, with the stopple drawn and gently put back, so that it can be quickly removed; a bottle of lime water; a box of powdered baking soda; a ball of soft darning cotton; and a needle, thread, thimble, and scissors. One may have no use for these things in many years; but the trouble of keeping them is trifling, and should there be need of them the advantage of having them ready for use is beyond estimation.

To make lime water, put about half a pound of unslaked lime in an earthen bowl, and pour over it three pints of boiling water. Stir with a stick, and put away in a cool place for eight or ten hours. At the end of that time pour off the clear lime water, letting the sediment remain in the bowl. Bottle the water, and put the stopple in, but not so far that it cannot be easily drawn.

Use of Naphtha in the Household.

Naphtha has come to be a power in cleaning establishments, and to some extent in the household. Before giving any directions for its use, I want to state that this fluid is extremely dangerous unless ample precautions be taken; but with proper care there is not the slightest danger. Naphtha is very volatile, giving off a highly inflammable gas. It is dangerous even to have an uncorked bottle of it in a room where there is a light or fire. If, however, when naphtha is being used, the windows in the room be open and there be neither light nor fire, there will not be a particle of danger.

Soiled carpets and garments may be cleaned by sponging with naphtha. Buffalo bugs and moths can be destroyed with it. For stuffed furniture use naphtha freely. Put the article on the piazza and pour the fluid into it, being sure that every part is saturated. After a day or two, repeat the process, and I think you will find that both worms and eggs are destroyed. Still, it will be necessary to keep a close watch; for it is more difficult to destroy the eggs than the worms, and they may be hatched out after days, or even weeks, have passed. I know that if the naphtha be used again at this time the trouble will be at an end. Furs and woollen garments should be well beaten, and then saturated with naphtha. There is no danger in this generous use of the fluid out of doors; but in the house great care must be exercised. Windows should be opened, and there should be no light or fire in the room for several days, if naphtha has been used in large quantities.

When rugs or carpets are attacked, have two hot flat-irons ready. Wet with hot water the parts that are affected. Place several thicknesses of wet cloth over this, and apply the hot iron, which should stand there for at least ten minutes, that the steam may penetrate every part. When all is done, pour on naphtha; also, pour it about the edges of the carpet. Remember that wiping with naphtha has no effect; it must be a generous bath. Let me say again, that the danger from the fluid comes from the gas, and that the windows are to be opened, and no fire or light allowed in the room during the work, or for a few hours after it is done.

Bedbugs can be banished from a room with two or three applications of naphtha. Take the bed apart and dust it. Let the parts lie flat on the floor with the grooved sides up. Saturate the bed with naphtha, filling the grooves. Pour the fluid into the pillows and mattresses, wetting the seams and tuftings thoroughly. Spray any cracks there may be in the walls. If there be a carpet on the floor it will be well to give it a naphtha bath, to clean and brighten it. When all this is done, close the room, leaving the windows open. It should stand in this way for at least eight hours, that the gas may pass off. Should any bugs appear after this, repeat the operation. The second time will not fail.

When putting away furs, flannels, rugs, etc., have the articles well beaten. Put them in sheets, and wet with naphtha; then pin the sheets and put the articles away in boxes or drawers.

A Word Regarding Stains.

Stains of all kinds are constantly getting on all sorts of articles and fabrics. Great care must be used in removing them, as the treatment that is good for one kind will produce the most disastrous results with another. A few simple remedies are given for the most common stains that trouble the housekeeper.

To Remove Grease Spots.

Where soap and hot water can be used, wash the spots in very hot water, using plenty of soap; then rinse well. French chalk or fuller’s earth may be powdered and mixed with cold water, to make a thick paste. Spread this on the grease spot and let it remain for several days; then brush off. If the stain has not fully disappeared, apply the mixture a second time.

Oxgall may be used on dark colors; if purified, it may be used on any color. It can sometimes be bought at a druggist’s in a purified state. Chemists also combine oxgall with turpentine and other cleaning agents. This preparation is effective and safe in removing grease.

In the case of delicate fabrics that can be washed, the spots may be rubbed with yolk of egg before the washing. Naphtha is usually effective in removing grease.

Here is still another way. Put a piece of blotting paper under the grease spot and another over it. Place a warm iron on the upper one. After a while remove the iron and paper, and, if the grease has not entirely disappeared, repeat the process with fresh paper.

If a large amount of oil or grease be spilled on a flat surface, immediately cover the place thickly with whiting, wheat flour, or meal of any kind. This will absorb some of the oily substance, and prevent it from spreading. After an hour or two brush off this substance and apply the usual remedies.

Grease spots on carpets may be taken out by covering the spots with fuller’s earth, wet with spirits of turpentine. Let it stand until the earth is a fine dry powder.

Delicate fabrics, like silk, crÊpe, ribbons, scarfs, etc., may be spread on a clean cloth and then be covered with powdered French chalk or fuller’s earth. Roll up the article and put away for a few weeks and it will become clean.

To Take Grease from Wood and Stone.

Put one gill of washing soda and one quart of boiling water in a stewpan and place on the fire. When the soda is dissolved, pour the boiling liquid on the grease spot. Rub with an old broom. An hour or two later rub with a mop. Rinse out the mop; then wash with clean hot water. Be careful not to get the soda water on your hands, clothing, or boots.

If the stains were made by grease, spread wet whiting or chloride of lime on them and let it remain for several hours; then wash off. Washing soda, dissolved in hot water, mixed with enough whiting to form a thick paste, and kept on the stains for several hours, will remove grease spots.

Sometimes the marble has a discolored appearance from scratches. If it be rubbed hard with wet whiting and then washed and wiped dry, the mark will disappear. Ink and iron rust are usually removed with an acid, but if that be employed on marble, it will dissolve the stone. The remedies given for grease spots can, however, be used. Should an acid be used on marble, pour ammonia water on the spot and it will neutralize the acid, thus saving the marble.

Treatment of Fruit Stains.

One of the simplest methods is to place the stained part of the cloth over a bowl and continue pouring boiling water through until the stain disappears. If this be done soon after the article is stained, there will be no trouble in most cases.

Oxalic acid will remove fruit stains. As it is useful for many purposes, it is well to keep a bottle of it in some safe place. Put three ounces of the crystals in a bottle with half a pint of water. Mark the bottle plainly.

When stains are to be removed have a large pail of water and a bottle of household ammonia at hand. Wet the stained parts with the acid and then rub. When the stains have disappeared, put the article in the water. Wash thoroughly in several waters, and then wet the parts with the ammonia, that all trace of the acid may be removed. Finally, rinse again.

If treated at once such stains seldom give much trouble. Place the stained part over a large bowl and pour boiling water upon it until the stain disappears. If, however, the stains be of long standing, and have been washed with soap, it will be difficult to get rid of them. Javelle water (which can be made at home or bought of a druggist) will do it. Put about half a pint of Javelle water and a quart of clear water into an earthen bowl; let the stained article soak in this for several hours; then rinse thoroughly in three waters. It is only white goods that can be treated in this manner, as the Javelle water bleaches out the color. Another way to do is to put a little of the Javelle water in a saucer or small bowl, and soak the spot in this until it disappears. Rinse thoroughly.

When Cloths become Mildewed.

Put about a tablespoonful of chloride of lime in a wooden pail, or earthen bowl, and add four quarts of cold water. Stir until all the lime is dissolved, using a wooden spoon or paddle. Now put the mildewed article into the water and work it about, using the spoon or paddle. Let the article stay in the water until all the mildew has disappeared; then throw it into a tub of cold water. Wash well in this, and then rinse in a second tub of cold water; finally, wring out and dry. If the rinsing be thorough the fabric will be uninjured. It is only white goods that can be treated in this way, because chloride of lime removes colors as well as mildew.

The Best Way to remove Iron Rust.

Buy four ounces of muriatic acid at a druggist’s. It is useful for various purposes. Have it marked plainly. It should, moreover, be labelled as poisonous.

Fill a large bowl with boiling water. Have another bowl or pan full of hot water. A bottle of household ammonia also is necessary. Place the spotted part of the garment over the bowl of hot water. Wet a cork in the muriatic acid and touch the iron rust with it. Immediately the spot will turn a bright yellow. Dip at once in the hot water, and the stain will disappear. When all the spots have been removed, rinse the article thoroughly in several clear waters, then in ammonia water (a tablespoonful of household ammonia to a quart of water), and finally in clear water. The acid is very powerful, and will destroy the fabric if allowed to remain upon it. Ammonia neutralizes it. If the directions be followed carefully, the most delicate fabric can be successfully treated in this way.

As muriatic acid is very destructive of tin, do not keep the bottle in the same closet with articles made of that metal.

Removing Blood Stains.

Wash the stain in blood-warm water until the greater part has been removed; then rub on some soap, and wash until the stain disappears. When the stain is on white cotton or linen goods, scald the article after it has been washed. Never use hot water until the stain is nearly removed.

Removing Sewing-machine Oil Stains.

Rub the stain with sweet oil or lard, and let it stand for several hours; then wash in soap and cold water.

To Remove Pitch and Tar.

Rub lard on the stain and let it stand for a few hours; then sponge with spirits of turpentine until the stain is removed. If the color of the fabric be affected, sponge it with chloroform and the color will be restored.

Rub the stain with alcohol; then wash in clean water.

Muriatic Acid for Stains on Porcelain.

When there is a great deal of iron in the water, the porcelain or china bowls in the bath-room become badly stained. Rub a little muriatic acid on the stained parts, and rinse thoroughly with cold water, adding a little ammonia to the rinsing water toward the end.

To Remove Paint.

Wet the paint with turpentine and rub with a woollen cloth. If the paint spot can be kept wet with the turpentine for a little while, it will not require so much rubbing.

Removing Ink Stains.

Tear blotting paper in pieces and hold the rough edges on the ink when it is freshly spilled. If you have no blotting paper at hand, cover the spot with Indian meal; or, the liquid ink may be absorbed by cotton batting. The first care should be to prevent the ink from spreading. If ink be spilled upon a carpet, cut a lemon in two, remove a part of the rind, and rub the lemon on the stain. As the lemon becomes stained with the ink, slice it off, and rub with the clean part. Continue this until the stain is removed.

If the stained article be washed immediately in several waters and then in milk, letting it soak in the milk for several hours, the stain will disappear.

Washing the article immediately in vinegar and water, and then in soap and water, will remove all ordinary ink stains.

Washing at once in water and then in liquid citric acid or oxalic acid is another mode. Oxalic acid is very corrosive and should be removed from the article by a thorough washing in water. If, after the washing, the article be wet with household ammonia, any acid remaining will be neutralized.

No matter what substance be used to remove ink, the stain must be rubbed well. If the article stained be a carpet on the floor, use a brush. As the acids often affect the colors in a fabric, it is wise to try the water and milk or the water and vinegar method before resorting to the acids. Chemicals should always be the last resort, unless one be rather familiar with their action.

My own experience is that it is a most difficult matter to remove the stains of some kinds of black ink if they have stood for a few hours; whereas, other kinds, notably stylographic ink spots, can be removed easily with soap and water.

When Acids are Spilled.

A bottle of household ammonia should be kept where it can be reached conveniently at any time; then, when an acid is accidentally spilled, pour ammonia over the spot at once.

Restoring Colors.

When an acid has been spilled on a fabric its effect may be neutralized by sponging with ammonia. If an alkali, such as ammonia, soda, potash, etc., be spilled on a garment, its effect may be neutralized by sponging with weak vinegar.

If the color be not fully restored, sponge with chloroform.

To make Javelle Water.

Into a large saucepan, porcelain-lined if possible, put four pounds of bicarbonate of soda and four quarts of hot water. Stir frequently with a wooden stick until the soda is dissolved; then add one pound of chloride of lime, and stir occasionally until nearly all the solids are dissolved. Let the liquid cool in the kettle; then strain the clear part through a piece of cheese-cloth into wide-mouthed bottles. Put in the stoppers and set away for use. The part that is not clear can be put into separate bottles and used for cleaning white floors and tables; also for cleaning the sink.

In making this preparation be careful not to spatter it on your clothing or on the paint. Half a pint of this water can be put into a tub with about a dozen pails of warm suds, and the soiled white clothes be soaked in them. Much of the dirt can be removed by this method. The French laundresses use this preparation for white clothes.

A Good Cleaning Fluid.

Put into a large saucepan two quarts of water, half an ounce of borax, and four ounces of white castile soap shaved fine, and stir frequently until the soap and borax are dissolved; then take from the fire and add two quarts of cold water. When the mixture is cold, add one ounce of glycerine, one of ether, and four of ammonia crystals. Bottle and put away for use; it will keep for years.

To clean an article, first brush thoroughly, and then spread on a table. Sponge with the cleaning fluid and rub hard until the stains disappear. Then press if necessary.

This fluid will remove grease spots and stains of various kinds. It can be used on silks, cottons, and woollens. It is almost invaluable for cleaning men’s clothing, dresses, carpets, etc. When a colored garment is to be sponged, try the fluid on a small piece of the goods, as it affects some colors.

Treatment of Grease Spots on Wall Paper.

If you find grease spots on wall paper, put powdered French chalk, wet with cold water, over the places, and let it remain for twelve hours or more. When you brush off the chalk, if the grease spots have not disappeared, put on more chalk, place a piece of coarse brown paper or blotting paper on this, and press for a few minutes with a warm flat-iron.

Stale Bread for Cleaning Soiled Paper.

Wipe the paper with a clean cloth. Cut a loaf of stale bread in two, lengthwise, and rub the bread over the paper, making long strokes straight up and down. When the bread becomes soiled, cut off a thin slice, and continue the work with the clean surface. A large room may require the use of two or three loaves.

Edges of books, margins of pictures, and other things may be cleaned in the same way.

Two Ways to Repair Wall Paper.

Have a set of children’s paints, selecting those that have creams, browns, yellows, and perhaps green, blue, and red. Mix the colors until you get the shade of the foundation color of the paper, then lightly touch up the broken places. If the breaks be small this will be all that is necessary; but if large, it will be well when the first color is dry to touch up the place with the other colors. This is a much easier and more satisfactory method than patching the paper. If, however, the broken place be too large to be repaired with the paint, match the paper if you can and stick it on with flour paste. Never use mucilage, as it discolors the paper.

Brightening Leather Furniture.

Housekeepers often wonder if it is possible to restore the color to leather furniture which has become rusty in appearance. Furniture dealers say that real leather should not fade as long as it holds together. However, it does fade; so try this method of brightening it. Wash the leather with a sponge that has been wrung out of hot soap suds; then rub as dry as possible. Now place the furniture in the sun and wind, that it may get thoroughly dry as quickly as possible. Next, rub hard with a cloth that has been wet with kerosene. Let the furniture stand in the air until the odor of the oil has passed off.

Preventing Silks and Woollens from Turning

Yellow.

Whenever you have occasion to pack away silk or woollen goods which you are afraid may turn yellow, break up a few cakes of white beeswax and fold the pieces loosely in old handkerchiefs that are worn thin. Place these among the goods. If possible, pin the silks or woollens in some old white linen sheets or garments. If it be inconvenient to use linen, take cotton sheets. Of course, it is important that the clothing shall be perfectly clean when put away.

Cleaning Dress Silks and Ribbons.

There are several methods of cleaning silks. They may be spread on a clean table and sponged with naphtha, alcohol, soap and water, etc.; or the silk may be washed in soap suds, gasoline or naphtha. As the gasoline or naphtha does not affect the colors, it is more desirable for colored silks.

If the silks be washed in suds, use the best white castile soap. Wash the silk in the suds; then rinse in clear water and hang on a clothes-horse in the shade. Do not wring it. When the silk is nearly dry lay it on a soft ironing cloth, and, after spreading either coarse brown paper or a newspaper over it, press with rather a cool iron. If naphtha or gasoline be used, have the liquid in a large bowl near an open window, and in a room where there is neither fire nor light. Wash the silk in this and hang in the air. It will dry quickly.

Black silk may be washed in ammonia water and rinsed in clear water to which has been added strong bluing and dissolved gelatine,—one quarter of an ounce of gelatine to one gallon of water.

Never iron silk unless it is absolutely necessary.

Cleaning Chamois Skins.

Chamois skins that have been used for cleaning silver, brass, etc., can be made as soft and clean as new by following these directions. Put six tablespoonfuls of household ammonia into a bowl with a quart of tepid water. Let the chamois skin soak in this water for an hour. Work it about with a spoon, pressing out as much of the dirt as possible; then lift it into a large basin of tepid water, and rub well with the hands. Rinse in fresh waters until clean, then dry in the shade. When dry, rub between the hands. Chamois jackets can be washed in the same manner, except that there should be two quarts of water to the six tablespoonfuls of ammonia. Pull into shape before drying.

To Clean Brushes.

Put enough warm water in a flat bowl or pan to cover the bristles, but not to come over the back of the brush. To each quart of water put three tablespoonfuls of household ammonia. Lay the brushes in this for about five minutes, then work them gently in the water. Rinse thoroughly in cold water, and rest them on the edge where a current of air will strike them.

Care of Straw Matting.

This floor covering should not be washed often. Boil together for one hour two quarts of bran and four of water. Strain this, pressing all moisture out of the bran. Add two quarts of cold water and two tablespoonfuls of salt to the strained mixture. Wash the matting with this and rub dry with a clean cloth.

To Clean Woods in Natural Finish.

To clean woodwork in your halls and rooms do not wash it. Soap destroys the looks of woodwork that is finished in natural colors. Wring a flannel cloth out of hot water and wipe off the dust. When all the woodwork has been dusted in this manner go over it with a woollen cloth made damp with cotton-seed or sweet oil and alcohol or turpentine; two parts oil and one alcohol or turpentine. Rub hard, and with the grain of the wood; then rub with clean flannel. It will revive the color and gloss. Light woods must be wiped with a damp flannel and polished with a dry piece of flannel. Do not use oil on light woods.

To clean the railing of banisters, wash off all the dirt with soap and water, and when dry rub with two parts of linseed oil and one of turpentine.

All dark woods that have become soiled and dingy may be washed with soap and water, using, if possible, a piece of flannel. Dry with a soft cloth. Mix together two parts of linseed oil and one of turpentine. Moisten an old piece of flannel in this and rub the furniture with it. Finish by rubbing hard, and with the grain, with a dry old piece of flannel. If there be any white stains rub them with kerosene, using a good deal of oil and much pressure.

The soiled wood may be cleaned with turpentine instead of soap and water.

To Remove White Stains from Furniture.

Wet a woollen cloth with kerosene and rub the spot until the stain disappears. It may take a good deal of hard rubbing if the stain be deep or of long standing, but perseverance will accomplish the object.

There are many good preparations which come for cleaning brass. The most of them do the work quickly, leaving a brilliant polish, but the metal does not keep clean so long as when cleaned by the old method. Pound fine and then sift half a pint of rotten-stone. Add to this half a gill of turpentine and enough sweet oil to make a thick paste. Wash the brasses in soap and water, wipe dry, and then rub with the paste. Rub with a soft clean rag, and polish with a piece of chamois skin.

Conveniences when Sweeping.

If one have proper covers for the pictures and heavy pieces of furniture in the room, a great amount of trouble can be saved on the sweeping day. Buy cheap print cloth for the furniture. Have three breadths in the cover, and have it three yards and a half long. It should be hemmed, and the work can be done quickly on a sewing-machine. I find six cloths a convenient number, although we do not always need so many. Get cheap unbleached cotton, and cut it into lengths suitable for covering pictures, heavy ornaments, clocks, etc. These need not be hemmed. Always remove any coverings gently; then take them out of doors to be shaken. Fold them and put them away. They will last a long time, and pay for themselves in a year, because they save so much extra dusting, and the moving of heavy articles.

Mending Breaks in Plaster.

Mix together half a pint of powdered lime, one gill of plaster of Paris, and cold water enough to make a thick paste. Fill the holes with this and smooth the surface with a knife. Work quickly. If there be many breaks mix only as much plaster as can be used in ten minutes, as it hardens quickly.

Another method is to fill the breaks with putty. When the plaster or putty is dry, the places can be touched with water colors to correspond with the rest of the wall.

Cement for Stoves and Iron Ware.

Mix together enough water glass and iron filings to make a thick paste. Apply this to the cracks or holes, and heat gradually almost to a red heat. This substance will bear a white heat, although of course one would rarely have occasion to test it to this degree. The water glass and iron filings can be bought at a druggist’s.

Cement for China.

Dissolve one ounce of powdered gum-arabic in a gill of boiling water. Stir enough plaster of Paris into the liquid to make it the consistency of thick cream. Use immediately.

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Another Rule.—Powder quicklime and stir it into the white of an egg, making rather a thick paste. Coat the broken edges lightly with this, and tie the pieces together.

How to Fasten Handles of Knives and Forks.

Mix together two ounces of powdered rosin, one ounce of powdered sulphur, and one ounce of iron filings. Keep these in a box, and, when a knife or fork becomes loosened from the handle, fill the opening in the handle with the powdered mixture. Heat the tang of the instrument and press it into the handle. Should it not go in to the hilt, heat again, and the second attempt will be successful.

Do not pack the powder into the opening. Should the powder blaze up when the heated metal is inserted, blow out the flame. Be careful to turn the fork-tines or knife-blade around until in the right position, before the filling becomes hard.

Every housekeeper knows how annoying it is to have the hinges of the doors squeak, and the locks and bolts refuse to move unless great force be used. Many do not realize that a few drops of oil will, as a rule, remedy these annoyances. First spread a newspaper on that part of the floor over which the hinges swing. Now, with the sewing-machine oil can, oil the hinges thoroughly, and then swing the door back and forth until it moves without noise. Wipe the hinges, but let the paper remain for a few hours, to guard against the possible dripping of oil. For locks and bolts, protect the floor in the same manner. Oil them thoroughly, working them until they will move with ease. The egg-beater and the ice-cream freezer should be oiled frequently in the same manner.

What to do when the Chimney is Cold.

When lighting a fire where the chimney has not been used for some time, start the current of air upward by burning a paper in the stove pipe, or by holding it in the chimney, if it be a grate fire.

If the heat has been turned off from a room for some time it occasionally happens that the heated air will not come through the pipe when it is turned on again. In that case close for a few minutes nearly all the registers which serve as outlets for the other pipes, and the heat will be forced into the cold pipe. After this it will go that way naturally.

To Prevent Kid from Cracking.

When kid boots require a dressing, rub a little castor oil into the kid before the dressing is put on. This will keep the leather soft.

Have white paper for testing the heat of the oven. Put a piece on the bottom of the oven and close the door. For pastry, the oven should be hot enough to turn the paper dark brown in five minutes; for bread, the heat should turn it in six minutes. All kinds of muffins can be baked at this heat. Cup cakes should be put into an oven that will turn a piece of white paper dark yellow in five minutes. Sponge and pound cakes require heat that will turn white paper light yellow in five minutes. Bread requires great heat at first; later, the heat is to be reduced. Cake should have rather a cool oven. The heat can be increased later.

Oven Thermometers.

Many efforts have been made to produce a thermometer which will indicate the temperature of the oven, but, so far as I know, none made with mercury have been satisfactory. There is made in this country, however, an “oven clock,” which can be set into the door of the oven. This is based on the principle of the contraction and expansion of the metals. To get the greatest benefit from these clocks the housekeeper must make her tests herself; that is, she must learn that when the hand points to a certain number the oven is right for roasting; when at another point, that the heat is right for baking bread, cake, etc. After she has established these facts, she may write out a table which will serve as a safe guide in the future.

Ridding the House of Water Bugs.

Strew powdered borax about the pipes and in any cracks in the walls or woodwork where water bugs appear. If this be persisted in, and everything be kept perfectly clean, you can rid the house of the insects.

Wipe the chandeliers with a soft cloth that has been wet in kerosene oil. This should be done several times during the summer. Fly specks can be wiped off in the same manner, even when on gilt picture frames; but the cloth must be only slightly moistened in the latter case, and used lightly, else the gilt itself may come off.

Driving away Ants.

Put green walnuts around the places where the ants come and they will disappear; or, strew fresh pennyroyal around. If it is impossible to get the fresh herb, use the oil. Tar mixed with hot water, and placed in bowls or jars in the room or closet, will often drive away these pests.

Care of the Hands.

Doing housework is apt to make the hands become rough. Have thick gloves to wear when making fires and cleaning stoves and grates. Wear, when sweeping and dusting, old gloves that fit loosely. As much as possible use one kind of soap; changes of soap and water irritate the hands. Have soft hand-towels in the kitchen, and always wipe the hands perfectly dry. When the work is done rub the hands with bran and vinegar diluted with water. Rinse them in tepid water and wipe perfectly dry. Rub a little cold cream into the hands at night, and also, if convenient, after the coarse work has been done for the day.

Break up the wax, spermaceti, and cocoa butter. Put all the ingredients into a bowl, and place this in a pan of boiling water. Stir the mixture until it becomes a soft, smooth mass; then put it in little jars, and keep in a cool dry place. This is excellent for the hands and face. In winter use only one ounce of spermaceti.

Cupfuls, Half-pints, and Grills.

The ordinary kitchen cup is supposed to hold half a pint, and nearly all writers of cook-books base their measurements on this understanding. Nearly all first-class kitchen furnishing stores keep what are known as measuring cups. They are made of tin, and hold half a pint, old measure. One cup is divided into four parts, and one into three. A set of these cups will be found of the greatest value in the kitchen, as they insure accurate measurements.

Here is a table which will be helpful to those who do not have such cups to work with:—

1 cupful	=	1/2 pint.
1/2 cupful	=	1 gill.
1/4 cupful	=	1/2 gill.

New-process flour, 1 quart less 1 gill	1 pound.
Pastry flour, 1 quart, sifted	1	“
Granulated sugar, 1 heaped pint	1	“
Butter, 1 pint	1	“
Powdered sugar, 5 gills	1	“
Chopped meat, 1 pint, packed solid	1	“
Liquids, 1 pint	1	“
Eggs, 10 of average size	1	“
Corn meal, 1/2 pint	6 ounces.
Rice, 1/2 pint	8	“
Raisins, stemmed, 1/2 pint	6	“
English currants, cleaned, 1/2 pint	6	“
Bread crumbs, grated, 1 pint	4	“
Granulated sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful	1	“
Powdered sugar, 1 slightly rounded tablespoonful	1/2	“
Butter, 1 rounded tablespoonful	1	“
Flour, 1 rounded tablespoonful	1/2	“
Baking powder, 1 heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Soda, 1 slightly rounded teaspoonful	1/4	“
Cream of tartar, 2 slightly rounded teaspoonfuls	1/4	“
Ginger, 1 heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Cinnamon, 1 heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Allspice, 1 generously heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Clove, 1 slightly heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Mace, 1 heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Pepper, 1 heaped teaspoonful	1/4	“
Salt, 1 teaspoonful	1/4	“
Mustard, 1 rounded teaspoonful	1/4	“
Nutmegs, 5	1	“
Tea, 3 scant teaspoonfuls	1/4	“
Coffee, roasted berry, 1 tablespoonful	1/2	“
Liquids, 2 tablespoonfuls	1	“