Quality of the Fruit.

IT is a waste of time and strength to preserve unripe, over-ripe or inferior fruits. One should select sound, ripe, well flavored fruits for this purpose.

What to do with Fruit Pulp.

When making jellies with crab apples, quinces, peaches, etc., there is always a great deal of pulp left. The thrifty housekeeper does not like to throw this away, although all the fine flavor of the fruit has been extracted with the juice. If fruit be plentiful and cheap, it will be economy to throw this impoverished pulp away; if, on the other hand, fruit be high and scarce, add some fresh fruit, sugar, and water to the cooked pulp, and boil until a smooth marmalade is formed.

Cooked quince may be combined with fresh tart apples, sugar, and a little water. While the mixture is hot, can it, and it will be found good for pies and other uses when the fresh fruit is scarce.

Preserved Peaches.

The peaches should be sound and ripe. Weigh the fruit, and for every nine pounds make a syrup with three pounds of sugar and one pint of water; skimming the syrup as soon as it boils up.

Have ready a kettle of boiling water and a bowl of cold water. Fill a wire basket with peaches and plunge into the boiling water for two minutes. Lift the basket from the water and turn the peaches into a bowl. Pare them, and drop them into the cold water. This is to preserve the color.

Drop the peaches, a few at a time, into the boiling syrup. Cook them until they are heated through, and are tender; then put in a hot jar as many as will go in without crowding, and fill up with syrup. Cover the jar at once.

If many peaches are to be preserved it is best to make the syrup in several lots, as otherwise the long cooking, together with the fruit juice, will make it dark.

Preserved Pears.

Make a syrup like that for the peaches, allowing one quart of water to three pounds of sugar and nine pounds of pears.

Pare the pears with a silver knife and drop them in a bowl of cold water to preserve the color. On taking them from the water drop them into the boiling syrup. Cook them gently until they can be easily pierced with a silver fork. The time depends upon the ripeness of the fruit. The pears may be preserved whole or in halves. Put the cooked fruit into hot jars, and, after filling up with boiling syrup, seal.

Crab Apples.

Make the syrup as for peaches; allowing, however, half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Clean the blossom end of the apples by rubbing, and drop them into water. Wash and drain them. Drop them, a few at a time, into the hot syrup, and cook until they can be pierced with a silver fork. Fill the jars with the fruit, and, after filling up with hot syrup, seal the jars.

The stems are left on crab apples.

Make the syrup for the large white plums the same as for crab apples. Peel the plums by plunging in boiling water, like peaches. Cook and finish the same as crab apples.

Preserved Damson Plums.

These are preserved the same as the white plums, except that they are not peeled. They will cook in about three minutes.

Grape Preserve.

This preserve should be made with a tender-skinned grape. The Concord grape is too tough-skinned to make a satisfactory preserve.

Squeeze the pulp out of the skin, and, after putting it in the preserving kettle, set on the fire. Stir frequently, and cook until the pulp will break up readily. This will require only a few minutes’ boiling. Rub the pulp through a sieve, rejecting the seeds. Measure the skins and pulp, and put them in the preserving kettle. For every quart of the fruit add one pint and a half of sugar, and one gill of water. Cook for twenty minutes after the preserve begins to boil; then put in jars and seal. If you choose, use less sugar; or, if you prefer to have the preserve sweeter, allow a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit.

Preserved Quinces.

Have a kettle of boiling water on the fire. Pare the fruit and remove the cores; then weigh it. Drop the pared fruit into the boiling water, and cook gently until so tender that it can be pierced with a straw. Take it from the water and drain it. Make a syrup the same as for peaches, and put the cooked fruit into it. Simmer for about half an hour; then put up in jars. This amount of sugar—one pound to three pounds of fruit—makes a fairly rich preserve. Less may be used if one prefer to have the quinces less rich.

Preserved Pineapple.

Pare the pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut the fruit into thin slices, cutting down the sides until the heart is reached. Weigh the sliced fruit and put it in a bowl, with half a pound of granulated sugar to every pound of fruit. Mix the fruit and sugar well, and put it in a cold place over night. In the morning put the fruit and sugar in the preserving kettle, and place on the range. When the syrup begins to boil, skim carefully; then fill the hot jars with the preserve and seal them.

The pineapple may be shredded with a silver fork, instead of being sliced. Be careful to keep out all the woody fibres of the heart of the fruit.

Preserved Uncooked Pineapple.

Pare the pineapple and take out all the eyes. With a sharp knife, cut the fruit in thin slices, cutting down the sides until the heart is reached (this is to be discarded). Weigh the sliced pineapple and put it in an earthen dish. Add to it as many pounds of granulated sugar as there are pounds of fruit. Stir this gently; then pack the fruit and sugar in pint jars, leaving space for two tablespoonfuls of Jamaica rum in each jar. Add the liquor; then put on the covers and tighten them. Set away in a cool, dark place.

Wine or brandy may be substituted for the rum; or, the jars may be packed solidly to the top, and sealed, without using any spirit. This fruit will keep well, and is so tender that it will melt in the mouth. It is, of course, very rich.

Pick over the berries and weigh them; then put them in the preserving kettle. Add to them as many pounds of granulated sugar as there are of strawberries. Do not have the fruit and sugar more than three or four inches deep in the preserving kettle. Place on the fire and heat slowly to the boiling point. Let the preserve cook for just ten minutes from the time it begins to boil, skimming well. Take up and pour into meat platters, having the preserve not much more than an inch and a half deep. Set the platters on tables at sunny windows. They should stand in the sun for twenty-four full hours. If the sun does not shine one day, let the fruit remain until it does. Put up cold in preserve jars. This preserve is perfect.

CANNING FRUITS.

The destruction of germs and the exclusion of air are the principles upon which canning is based. The article to be preserved is cooked for a short time, and then put in jars from which the air has been expelled by heating them to the boiling point. They are then sealed, and when cold are set in a cool, dark place. If all the conditions be right, the fruit will keep for an unlimited number of years, and when opened will be found to have nearly all the freshness and aroma of newly gathered fruit.

Now this is true of the majority of fruits, but not of all. The strawberry subjected to this process will come out a pale, spongy, insipid thing, whereas the raspberry seems to have its color, flavor, and odor intensified. If, however, a generous amount of sugar be added to the strawberry in the cooking, the fruit will retain its shape, color, and flavor. It is an error to attempt to can this berry without sugar, or with only a small amount.

To fill the jars, have on the stove two pans partially filled with water. Let the water in one be boiling, but in the other not so hot that the hand cannot be held in it with comfort. Put a few jars and covers in the cooler water, turning them now and then until all parts become warm; then put them in the boiling water. This does away with all danger of breaking. When the jars have been heated in boiling water, drain, fill, and seal them one at a time.

In filling the jars be sure that they stand level, that the syrup has filled all the interstices between the fruit, and that it also runs over the top of the jars. Even with this overflowing of the syrup it will be found that, after cooling, the can is not quite full; but if the work has been properly done, the fruit will keep all right.

Different Fruits Need Different Treatment.

Now, as to the different modes of treating various kinds of fruit. We know that, when the germs are killed and the air is excluded, sugar is not necessary for the preservation of the fruit. But there are few kinds of fruit that are not improved by some sugar, because it fixes the color and flavor, and gives much finer results. Some kinds of fruit require but little sugar for this purpose, while others are poor indeed without a generous amount. One has only to contrast the flavor and quality of the canned peaches that are put up with and without sugar to realize the great superiority of those with which saccharine matter has been used. Where fruits are too dry to give out enough juice to cover them generously, a light syrup should be used. But with juicy fruits, avoid water if possible. A good rule in the case of small berries is to allow one third of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit.

For fruit like peaches, pears, plums, etc., make a light syrup. Quinces must first be cooked in clear water until tender.

In paring fruit use silver-plated knives, and drop each piece as soon as pared into a bowl of cold water, which has been made acid by the addition of lemon juice. This prevents the fruit from turning dark. Use earthen bowls, and wooden or silver-plated spoons. Avoid any delay while doing this work.

To Can Small Fruits.

Any fruit, if boiled long enough to have all the germs killed and the air expelled, will keep indefinitely if sealed while boiling hot. Sugar helps to preserve the fruit, but it is not absolutely essential to its preservation. Sugar, however, preserves the fine flavor and color of the fruit. Some fruits are not good when canned, unless a great deal of sugar be used, whereas just the contrary is true of other kinds. Tastes differ as to the amount of sugar to be employed; each housekeeper must study her own tastes and those of her family. Blueberries need no sugar, but are richer if a little be used. Blackberries and raspberries are better for some sugar,—say a pound of sugar to four or six pounds of fruit. More may be used, if liked. Strawberries require a great deal to preserve the color and texture. All small fruits are richer if preserved in their own juice.

Here is a rule for preserving raspberries, and the same general principles apply to other fruits:—Take twelve quarts of raspberries and two of sugar. Heat and crush three quarts of the fruit; then turn it, together with the juice, into a piece of cheese-cloth which has been placed over a bowl. Squeeze as much juice as possible from the hot fruit. Put the juice and sugar in the preserving kettle, and set on the fire. When the mixture begins to boil, skim well, and add the whole berries. Simmer for fifteen minutes, skimming well. Put the hot fruit in heated jars, and seal.

If the combined flavor of raspberry and currant be liked, use a quart of currant juice for the syrup. In that case use an extra pint of sugar. The twelve quarts of raspberries are then preserved whole.

Canned Rhubarb.

Get tender rhubarb. Pare it, and cut in pieces about two inches long. Wash, and then pack it in glass jars. Fill the jars with cold water, and let them stand for ten or fifteen minutes. Pour off the water and fill the jars to overflowing with fresh cold water. Seal the jars and put them in a cool, dark place. This will keep for a year or more, and should be treated the same as fresh uncooked rhubarb when required for use.

Blackberry Jam.

After picking over the berries, put them in the preserving kettle and set on the range. Stir the fruit frequently. Let it boil for twenty minutes, counting from the time it begins to bubble. Take it from the fire and rub it through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds. Measure the strained mixture and put it back in the preserving kettle with a pint and a half of granulated sugar for every quart of strained fruit. Heat the preserve slowly and stir frequently. Let it simmer for forty-five minutes; then put up the jelly in tumblers.

If the fruit be of the large, soft kind that has few seeds, it need not be strained.

Raspberry Jam.

Pick the fruit free from leaves, stems, and imperfect berries. Put it in a preserving kettle and set on the fire. Stir frequently. Simmer for half an hour after it begins to boil; then add the sugar, and simmer for one hour longer. Put the jam in hot jars, and seal while hot.

Cut the raisins in two and seed them; then cook them for one hour or more in the pint of water. Pick over the currants and put them on to cook in the preserving kettle. Add the orange juice, and cook for fifteen minutes after the fruit begins to boil.

Remove the seeds from the orange, and, after chopping the pulp and peel very fine, rub through the sugar. When the currants have been boiling for fifteen minutes, add the other ingredients to them, and cook for fifteen minutes longer. Put into jelly glasses, and when cold cover. This quantity will fill twelve glasses.

Pear Marmalade.

Boil the lemons in clear water until the peel can be pierced with a broom splint; then cut it into small pieces. Peel and chip the pears, and cut the ginger in thin slices. Put all the ingredients into the preserving kettle and simmer for two hours. Pour the marmalade into jelly glasses. This quantity will fill eighteen.

The water in which the lemons are cooked is to be thrown away.

Jellies.

In no department of preserving does the housekeeper feel less sure of the results than in jelly making, so much depends upon the condition of the fruit. This is more pronounced in the case of small fruits than with the larger kinds.

When currants are over-ripe, or have been picked after a rain, the result of using them will be uncertain. Perhaps we notice it more with this fruit than with any other, because it is so generally used for jelly. An understanding of the properties of fruit which forms the basis of jellies may help the housekeepers to a better knowledge of the conditions and methods essential to success.

Pectin, which forms the basis of vegetable jellies, is a substance which, in its composition, resembles starch and gum. It gives to the juices of fruits the property of gelatinizing. This property is at its best when the fruit is just ripe; better a little under-ripe than over-ripe. When boiled for a long time fruit loses its gelatinous property and becomes of a gummy nature.

These facts show the importance of using fruit that is but just ripe and freshly picked, as well as the need of care not to overcook the juice.

Covering Jellies.

There are several methods of covering jellies. Pasting paper over the top of the glass is one of the oldest. Thin sheets of cotton batting, tied over the top, make a good covering. A piece of white tissue paper cut to fit into the glass, and simply laid on top of the jelly, is all that some people use. It is stated that the jelly will not mould or shrink so much when covered in this way as when the paper is pasted over the glass.

Currant Jelly.

After freeing the currants from leaves and stems, put them in the preserving kettle and set on the range. Crush the fruit with a wooden vegetable masher, and stir frequently until heated to the boiling point. Have a large square of cheese-cloth in a strainer which is set over a bowl. Turn the crushed fruit and juice into this and let it stand long enough to drain thoroughly. Do not use any pressure to extract the juice. Have a flannel bag suspended over a bowl, and pour the strained juice into this. Now measure the liquid, and put it into a clean preserving kettle. When it boils up, add a scant quart of sugar for every generous quart of fruit juice. Stir until the sugar is all dissolved and the liquid begins to bubble; then strain through a clean piece of cheese-cloth into a bowl. Immediately fill the tumblers, which must be dry and warm. Let them stand uncovered until the jelly is set, then cover with a round of paper, and over this tie a thin sheet of cotton batting; or paper may be pasted over the glasses. If you use the glasses that come with covers, nothing else will be required except the first sheet of paper. Many housekeepers prefer to use even less sugar than the amount given, allowing only a pint and a half of sugar to each quart of fruit juice.

Currant Jelly, No. 2.

Pick the currants free from stems and leaves, and put them, a few quarts at a time, in a large earthen or granite-ware dish, and crush them with a vegetable masher. Put the crushed fruit into a square of cheese-cloth, and press out the juice. Put the strained juice into the preserving kettle and set on the fire. When it boils, skim it well; then turn it into a flannel bag and let it drain into an earthen bowl. Do not press the juice through the bag. Measure this strained juice, and put it on the fire in a clean preserving kettle. Let it boil for five minutes. Now add a pint of granulated sugar for every pint of currant juice. Stir the mixture until it begins to boil. Boil for just one minute; then fill the glasses, which must be warm, and set them in a sunny window until the jelly is firm. It may require only a few hours’ time for this, and it may take even a day or two; all depends upon the condition of the currants.

A much clearer and handsomer jelly is made by putting the currant juice, when it has been strained the second time, into the clean kettle, and adding, when it comes to the boiling point, the sugar; then stirring until the sugar is dissolved, and filling the glasses immediately. Set in the sun until the jelly becomes firm. It will take two or three days. This is called sun-cooked jelly. The currants must be in perfect condition for this kind of jelly; just ripe, and freshly picked.

Crab Apple Jelly.

Wash the fruit and put it in a preserving kettle with just enough water to cover it. Let it simmer for one hour. Have a piece of cheese-cloth in a strainer that is set over a bowl, and turn the cooked fruit and liquid into it. Let this drain well; then strain the liquid through a clean flannel bag. Measure it, and place on the fire, in the preserving kettle. Boil for ten minutes, counting from the time it begins to boil; then add the sugar, using a pint and a half for every quart of juice. When this boils up, strain through clean cheese-cloth, and fill warm tumblers. Cover when the jelly is set.

Peach, apple, and quince jellies may be made in this way.

Other Jellies.

Jelly can be made from any of the small juicy fruits in the same manner as currant jelly.

Cucumber Pickles.

Have a part of the stems left on the cucumbers. Wash the cucumbers in cold water; then lay them in a tub or jar, sprinkle the salt over them, and cover with ice water. Lay a large piece of ice on top of the cucumbers, and set away in a cold place for thirty-six hours. At the end of that time take the cucumbers from the salt and water, and place in a stone jar, mixing the onions and peppers among them.

Tie the whole spice in a thin muslin bag and after putting it, with the vinegar and alum, in a porcelain or granite-ware saucepan, set the pan on the fire. When the vinegar boils, pour it on the pickles, putting the spice on top. When the contents of the jar are cold, set away in a cool, dark place. The pickles will be ready for use in twenty-four hours.

Sweet Cucumber Pickles.

Have the cucumbers picked with a part of the stems on. Wash them, and put in a tub or stone jar. Make a brine with the salt and six quarts of water. Pour this on the cucumbers while boiling hot. On the second and third days pour off the brine. Boil and skim it, and then pour it, while boiling hot, on the cucumbers. On the fourth day take the pickles from the brine. Put the alum in six quarts of boiling water and boil until the alum is dissolved. Pour this on the pickles and let them stand until the next day; then pour off the liquid, and, after scalding and skimming it, pour it on the pickles again.

Repeat this the sixth day. Should the cucumbers be not green enough on the sixth day, add a little more alum to the water. On the seventh day pour off the alum water and cover the pickles with clear boiling water. Let them stand in this water for twenty-four hours. At the end of this time take them from the water and place in the jars in which they are to be kept. Sprinkle the white mustard seed among the cucumbers.

Put the vinegar in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware kettle and set on the fire. Add the cinnamon, broken small, the nutmeg, grated, and the other spice, as well as the sugar. Boil this for five minutes; then take from the fire and partially cool. Pour this on the cucumbers. Now add to the contents of the jars the horseradish, ginger root, and the green pepper, cut in pieces. Store the pickles in a cool, dark place. They will keep perfectly for two years if carefully made.

The quantities of sugar and spice may be varied to suit one’s taste.

Tomato Pickle.

Peel and slice the tomatoes. Chop the onions and peppers fine. Put all the ingredients in the preserving kettle and cook slowly for an hour and a half; then bottle and seal.

Canadian Tomato Pickle.

Slice the tomatoes and onions and sprinkle the salt over them. Let them stand over night. In the morning drain off the liquid and put the vegetables in the preserving kettle with one quart each of water and vinegar. Let the mixture boil for five minutes, then drain well. To the drained mixture add the spice, sugar, and two quarts of vinegar. Put on the fire and boil for fifteen minutes, counting from the time it begins to bubble. Put into jars and seal.

Governor’s Sauce.

Slice the tomatoes and sprinkle the salt over them. Let them stand over night. In the morning drain off the liquor and put the tomatoes in the preserving kettle. Add the seasonings and the peppers and onions, chopped fine. Pour over these ingredients enough vinegar to cover them well. Simmer the sauce for one hour and a half; then put up in jars and seal.

Tomato Catsup.

Cut the tomatoes up and put them on the fire, in the preserving kettle. Add the garlic, and cook until the tomatoes are tender,—about forty-five minutes after they begin to boil. Rub them through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds. Put the strained mixture on the fire, in the preserving kettle. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper. Tie the whole spice and red peppers in a piece of muslin, and put them with the other ingredients. Mix the mustard smoothly with cold water, and stir into the mixture. Simmer the catsup for an hour and a half; then put up in bottles.

The catsup must be stirred often to prevent burning.

Canned Tomatoes.

Put ripe tomatoes in a large pan and cover them with boiling water. Let them stand for four or five minutes; then pour off the water and pare the tomatoes. Another way to reach the same result is to have a large kettle of boiling water on the fire, and put the tomatoes in a wire basket and plunge them into the boiling water for a minute or two.

After paring the tomatoes, cut them in small pieces. Put the sliced vegetable in the preserving kettle and heat slowly, stirring frequently. Let them boil for half an hour, or longer, after they begin to boil. Fill heated jars, and seal them. When cold, put in a cool, dark place.

Spiced Currants.

Measure the currants after they have been picked. Put all the ingredients into the preserving kettle and place on the stove. Stir the mixture frequently, and when it begins to boil skim carefully. Cook for half an hour, counting from the time it begins to boil. Put it up in small jars or tumblers. This is to be served with meat.

Cover the crab apples with boiling water and cook them until tender; then rub them through a sieve, pressing all the liquid through also. Put the strained fruit into a preserving kettle, and add the sugar and seasoning. Cook gently for an hour and a half; then put in tumblers. When cold, cover with paper, the same as jelly. This is to be served with cold meat.

Piccalilli.

Slice the tomatoes, peppers, and onions. Add the salt to the sliced vegetables, and mix well. Let this mixture stand over night. In the morning drain off the liquid; then add the other ingredients, and, putting the mixture in a preserving kettle, cook for four hours, stirring often. Put the piccalilli in glass jars while hot, and it will keep for a year or more.