Having offered a rapid coup d'oeil of the country we are about to examine, we shall now conduct the stranger into Penzance,[9] as being a town well calculated to afford him an eligible residence; many of the various objects of interest are within the range of a morning's ride, and he will meet with every accommodation that may be required for the performance of his excursions; if his pursuit be mineralogy and geology, it is in this town that he will find others zealously engaged in the study of the same science, from whom he will readily obtain much local information; while in the collection of the Geological Society, so liberally opened for the inspection of every scientific stranger, he will see well defined specimens illustrative of the districts he may be desirous of exploring.

The reader of this Guide, therefore, must thoroughly understand that in the arrangement of the subsequent "Excursions," the various objects of interest, to which it directs him, are described in an order best adapted to the convenience of the resident at Penzance.

Penzance is the most western market town in the kingdom; about ten miles from the land's end, and 282 miles W.S.W. of London. It is beautifully situated on the north-west shore of the Mount's Bay, on a declivity jetting into the sea. The lands in its vicinity having a substratum of hornblende rock and slate, are not exceeded in fertility by any soil in the kingdom; a belt of land around the town, which consists of about a thousand acres, producing an annual rent of £10,000! The town is well defended by surrounding hills from the fury of Atlantic storms. It is large and populous, containing more than six thousand inhabitants. The Corporation[10] consists of a mayor, recorder, eight aldermen, and twelve common-council men; by whose funds,[11] unaided by any parliamentary grant, a very commodious pier was erected about fifty years ago, and which has lately been considerably extended, so that it is now more than 600 feet in length, and is the largest pier in Cornwall. It has, moreover, received the addition of a light which is displayed every night, from half flood to half ebb, and is consequently extinguished as soon as there is less than nine feet of water within the pier. At high water there is now at Spring tides 22 feet[12] of water, which is about five feet more than that at the pier of Saint Michael's Mount. The expenses incurred by these late improvements are to be paid by a new tariff, established by an act passed in the year 1817.

The mother church is situated at Madron, but there is a chapel of ease in the town, dedicated to Saint Mary, the simple and unassuming spire of which forms a very interesting object in the bay.

Besides the established church, there are several places of religious worship. The Wesleyan Methodists' chapel, built in the year 1814, is the most complete and capacious meeting-house in the county. There are, moreover, appropriate places of worship for the Independents, Baptists, and Quakers, and a synagogue for the Jews.

Penzance is one of those towns to which the tinners bring their tin to be "coined" as it is called, that is, to be assayed and licensed by the officers of the Duchy, who take off a piece from the corner[13] of each block; and if they find it sufficiently pure, stamp the former with the Duke's arms. The stranger will be much struck by the singular sight of many thousand blocks of Tin, which lie in heaps, like worthless rubbish, about the street,[14] each weighing about 320 lb. and may perhaps be worth from £18 to £20. The Tin intended for the Mediterranean trade is here formed into bars, while that designed for exportation to the East Indies is cast into ingots.

There is a Public Dispensary, supported by the voluntary contributions of the inhabitants, aided occasionally by the donations of those invalid strangers, who, grateful for the reestablishment of health in themselves, eagerly adopt this mode of contributing to its restoration in others. Few institutions for the accomplishment of a similar object, have proved more extensively beneficial; and none, we will venture to add, were ever superintended with more humane attention.

To the scientific visitor, Penzance possesses an interest of no ordinary degree. In the year 1814, Dr. Paris, who was at that time the resident physician, succeeded, through the support of the nobility, gentry, and mine agents of the county, in establishing a society for the cultivation and promotion of mineralogical and geological science; and, when we consider the immense advantages of its locality, the ability of its members, and the zeal and munificence of its patrons, we cannot be surprised to find that the short period of nine years has been sufficient to raise it to a respectable rank amongst the eminent institutions of this country. His present Majesty, having graciously condescended to become its patron, it is now denominated the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall. The Marquis of Hertford, Lord Warden of the Stannaries, and The Right Honourable Lord De Dunstanville, are its Vice-Patrons, and Davies Gilbert, Esq. M.P., the President; while amongst its officers and members it has enrolled the names of many individuals of the first rank and science in the kingdom. Two volumes of the Society's Transactions are already given to the public, from which a fairer estimate may be formed of the value of its labours, than from any sketch which the limited pages of this "Guide" could possibly afford; we shall, however, for the information of our scientific readers, present, in the Appendix, a list of the different memoirs which each volume contains. The splendid and extensive series of minerals, already exceeding four thousand specimens, which are deposited in an elegant and spacious museum,[15] offers a most honourable and durable testimony of the zeal and talent with which this department has been conducted; while to the student in mineralogy it affords a most desirable and solid system of instruction; indeed it has already excited such a spirit of inquiry among the miners, as to have led to the discovery of several minerals before unknown in Cornwall.

There is also an oeconomical department, containing specimens in illustration of the various changes which the ores of Tin, Copper, &c. undergo in the processes of dressing and smelting. Models are likewise to be seen of the machinery which is employed in such operations. The whole has been admirably arranged under the skilful direction of the Curator, E. C. Giddy, Esq.

In the geological department of the Museum are complete series of specimens illustrative of the serpentine formation of the Lizard,—of the slate formation of the "Land's End District,"—of the limestone formation of Veryan, and of the hornblende rocks of St. Cleer near Liskeard. There is besides an interesting series of "Elvans"[16] from different levels in many of the principal mines of the county, together with a collection of veins of metallic and earthy substances.

Among the earthy minerals, we may particularize, as unusually fine, the specimens of Calcedony, Sodalite, HaÜyne, Petalite, Colophonite, Vesuvian, &c. In the metallic department, we may notice the Carbonate of Lead, Specular Iron, Arseniate of Iron, the Oxide, Carbonate, Arseniate and Phosphate of Copper, Native Gold from the Tin-stream-works of Cornwall, Arsenical Pyrites, Uranite, Uran-ochre, Native Nickel, &c. Here also may be seen a mineral, hitherto almost unknown,—a Sub-carburet of Iron; it was analysed by that late eminent chemist, the Rev. W. Gregor, who received it from the hands of the Rev. J. Rogers of Mawnan. It was found in a vein about half an inch wide, intersecting either hard Clay-slate or GraywackÉ. Among the saline minerals in the cabinet are Glauberite, and Sassoline or native Boracic acid.

A Laboratory, containing the necessary apparatus for analytical operations, is attached to the establishment.

In conclusion, we will venture to affirm, that the advantages and enjoyments which such societies are calculated to afford are not only obtained without any expense to the country in which they are encouraged, but that they actually repay in wealth and emolument much more than they require for their support. Had the Cornish Society been earlier called into existence, we should never have heard of the most valuable productions of our country having been thrown into the sea, nor of their having been used as materials for the repair of roads, or the construction of cottages: on the contrary, how many thousand tons of ore might have been gained?—how many years of unprofitable but expensive labour saved? and how many individual adventurers preserved from disappointment, or rescued from ruin? Amongst the efforts made by this Society to improve the theory and art of mining, through the application of science, not the least interesting and praiseworthy is that which relates to the prevention of accidental explosion in the methods of blasting rocks with gunpowder, by the introduction of "Safety Instruments."

How little aware is the great mass of the community at what an expense of human suffering and misery the ordinary necessaries of civilized life are obtained! Few of our readers, we will venture to say, have ever heard of the dreadful extent of the accidents which have occurred in the mines of Cornwall from the use of iron rammers, in the process of charging the rock with gunpowder, in order to blast it. Hundreds have been thus sent to an untimely grave, or, what perhaps is still worse, have been so mutilated as to remain blind and helpless objects of misery for the rest of their days, while their wives and children have been thus driven, in a state of destitution, to the hard necessity of seeking from charity that pittance which honest industry could no longer supply. We must refer the reader for a full account of this appalling subject to Dr. Paris's Memoir, in the first volume of the Society's Transactions, entitled "On the Accidents which occur in the Mines of Cornwall, in consequence of the premature explosion of Gunpowder in blasting rocks; and on the methods to be adopted for preventing it, by the introduction of a Safety Bar, and an instrument termed the Shifting Cartridge."

We earnestly, therefore, entreat the Society to persevere in those laudable efforts, which have already ensured for it the respect of the learned, and the gratitude of the public.—Floreat.

Besides the instructive collection of the Geological Society, the splendid cabinet of Joseph Carne, Esq. may now be seen in this town, for since the first edition of this "Guide," the Cornish Copper Company have given up their smelting establishment at Hayle, at which place Mr. Carne formerly lived as the resident partner. Among the principal excellencies of this collection we may notice Prehnite, in a variety of forms; Axinite in the usual forms of that mineral; Stilbite in flat four-sided prisms, terminated by pyramids; Mesotype radiated; Garnets in twelve, and twenty-four sided crystals; Pinite in six and twelve sided prisms; Uranite in quadrangular tables with the angles sometimes truncated, and also in forms much resembling cubes and octohedrons; Uran-ochre; Native Bismuth; and Specular Iron ore, little inferior in beauty to that brought from Elba,—all of which are from Saint Just. From other parts of Cornwall are Sulphate of Lead (Vellenoweth Mine) in a variety of forms, more especially in one resembling an octahedron; Grey Sulphuret of Copper (Crenver mine), the best defined crystals of which are very obtuse dodecahedrons, and six sided prisms; in some specimens the dodecahedron is so placed upon the summit of a prism as to produce the whimsical appearance of a nail, which from its rarity is sought after by mineral collectors with considerable avidity. Two specimens of rarity also in this collection are the Yellow, and Grey Sulphuret of Copper, in forms approaching that of Cube; the latter is pseudomorphous.

The Penwith Agricultural Society holds its meetings, and distributes its premiums, in this town. Nothing can be more in place than such an institution. Geology and Agriculture are kindred sciences, and it has been truly observed that there is no district in the British Empire where the natural relations between the varieties of soil and the subjacent rocks can be more easily discovered and traced, or more effectually investigated, than in the county of Cornwall; and no where can the information which such an enquiry is capable of affording, be more immediately and successfully applied for the improvement of waste lands, and the general advancement of agricultural science.

The market of Penzance, for the goodness, variety, and cheapness of its commodities, is certainly not surpassed by any other in the kingdom; to the great quantity of salt usually mixed with the food of the swine, is perhaps to be attributed the delicacy and richness of the pork; whilst, owing to the fine pasturage of the neighbourhood, the heifer beef is superior, beyond comparison, to the Scotch. It is worthy also of notice, that during the winter season the market is filled with a variety of wild-fowl, woodcocks, snipes, &c. which are offered for sale at extremely low prices. The market is held on Thursdays and Saturdays; but every description of fish in season, as Red Mullet, John Doree, Turbot, Sole, Mackarel, Whiting, Pilchard, Herring, &c. &c. may be purchased from the Newlyn fish-women, who are in daily attendance at their stalls, and whose fine symmetry, delicate complexions, curling ringlets, and the brilliancy of whose jet black eyes, as they dart their rays from beneath the shade of large gypsey hats of beaver, fill the traveller with admiration.

We beg leave to introduce the reader to two of these Nymphs of the Cowel.[17]

Whilst speaking of the delicacies of the table we must not omit to mention the clotted or clouted cream of this and the neighbouring county,[18] a luxury with which the epicures of other parts are wholly unacquainted.

The town of Penzance is rapidly extending itself; new houses are continually rising in commanding situations; and, since the publication of the first edition of this work, Hot and Cold Sea Baths have been completed upon a suitable scale of convenience. The waiting room belonging to this establishment commands a prospect of very singular beauty. St. Michael's Mount rising boldly in front, forms a striking relief to the extended line of coast which constitutes the back ground; while the undulating shores on the left, skirted by the little village of Chy'andour, are well contrasted, on the opposite side, with the busy scene of the pier, and the numerous vessels in the harbour.

In enumerating the advantages this town holds out as a residence to invalids, it deserves notice that a packet sails every Friday to the Scilly Islands, and returns on the following Tuesday. The distance is about fourteen leagues, and, with a fair wind, the passage is generally accomplished in six hours; but with contrary winds it has sometimes, though very rarely, exceeded two days.

In a town so remote from the metropolis, and in a great degree insulated from the other parts of the empire, it is not extraordinary that we should find the traces of several very ancient customs. The most singular one is, perhaps, the celebration of the Eve of Saint John the Baptist,[19] our town saint, which falls on Midsummer Eve; and that of the Eve of Saint Peter, the patron of fishermen. No sooner does the tardy sun sink into the western ocean than the young and old of both sexes, animated by the genius of the night, assemble in the town, and different villages of the bay, with lighted torches. Tar barrels having been erected on tall poles in the market place, on the pier, and in other conspicuous spots, are soon urged into a state of vivid combustion, shedding an appalling glare on every surrounding object, and which when multiplied by numerous reflections in the waves, produce at a distant view a spectacle so singular and novel as to defy the powers of description; while the stranger who issues forth to gain a closer view of the festivities of the town, may well imagine himself suddenly transported to the regions of the furies and infernal gods; or, else that he is witnessing, in the magic mirror of Cornelius Agrippa, the awful celebration of the fifth day of the Eleusinian Feast;[20] while the shrieks of the female spectators, and the triumphant yells of the torch bearers, with their hair streaming in the wind, and their flambeaus whirling with inconceivable velocity, are realities not calculated to dispel the illusion. No sooner are the torches burnt out than the numerous inhabitants engaged in the frolic, pouring forth from the quay and its neighbourhood, form a long string, and, hand in hand, run furiously through every street, vociferating "an eye,"—"an eye,"—"an eye"! At length they suddenly stop, and the two last of the string, elevating their clasped hands, form an eye to this enormous needle, through which the thread of populace runs; and thus they continue to repeat the game, until weariness dissolves the union, which rarely happens before midnight.

On the following day (Midsummer day) festivities of a very different character enliven the bay; and the spectator can hardly be induced to believe that the same actors are engaged in both dramas. At about four or five o'clock in the afternoon, the country people, drest in their best apparel, pour into Penzance from the neighbouring villages, for the purpose of performing an aquatic divertisement. At this hour the quay and pier are crowded with holiday-makers, where a number of vessels, many of which are provided with music for the occasion, lie in readiness to receive them. In a short time the embarkation is completed, and the sea continues for many hours to present a moving picture of the most animating description.

Penzance is remarkable in history for having been entered and burnt by the Spaniards, in the year 1595. From time immemorial a prediction had prevailed, that a period would arrive when "Some strangers should land on the rocks of Merlin, who should burn Paul's Church, Penzance, and Newlyn." Of the actual accomplishment of this prediction we receive a full account from Carew, from which it would appear that on the 23d of July, 1595, about two hundred men landed from a squadron of Spanish gallies, on the coast of Mousehole, when they set fire to the church of Paul, and then to Mousehole itself. Finding little or no resistance, they proceeded to Newlyn,[21] and from thence to Penzance. Sir Francis Godolphin endeavoured to inspire the inhabitants with courage to repel these assailants; but, so fascinated were they by the remembrance of the ancient prophecy, that they fled in all directions, supposing that it was useless to contend against the destiny that had been predicted. The Spaniards availing themselves of this desertion, set it on fire in different places, as they had already done to Newlyn, and then returned to their galleys, intending to renew the flames on the ensuing day; but the Cornish having recovered from their panic, and assembled in great numbers on the beach, so annoyed the Spaniards with their bullets and arrows, that they drew their galleys farther off, and availing themselves of a favourable breeze, put to sea and escaped.

It is worthy of remark, that when the Spaniards first came on shore, they actually landed on a rock called "Merlin." The historian concludes this narrative by observing that these were the only Spaniards that ever landed in England as enemies.

In recalling the historical events which have invested this town with interest, we had nearly omitted to state, that a tradition exists here, that Tobacco was first smoked by Sir Walter Raleigh in Penzance, on his landing from America. By the Philosopher of a future age Penzance will, doubtless, as the birth place of the illustrious Sir Humphry Davy, be regarded with no ordinary share of interest; and to those who may be led to perform a pilgrimage to the early laboratory of this highly gifted philosopher, the vignette at the head of the present chapter will be found materially useful in directing his steps.[22]

It would be inconsistent with the plan and objects of the present work to enter into the details of biography, that duty must be reserved for an abler pen, we shall therefore only state that the present distinguished President of the Royal Society was born in this town in the year 1779, and that after having received the earlier part of his education under Dr. Cardew at Truro, he was placed with a respectable professional gentleman of Penzance, of the name of Tonkin, in order that he might acquire a knowledge of the profession of a surgeon and apothecary. His early proofs of genius, however, having attracted a gentleman well known for his strong perception of character, he was fortunately removed to a field better calculated to call forth the latent energies of his mind. The result is too well known to require comment.

In the vicinity of the town are delightful walks through shady dingles, and over swelling hills, from whose summits we catch the most delicious sea and land prospects; and which are not a little heightened in beauty and effect by the glowing aerial tints so remarkably displayed in this climate at the rising and setting of the sun. Here too the Botanist may cull, in his rambles, a great variety of rare indigenous plants; with a catalogue[23] of which we shall now close the present chapter.

LIST OF INDIGENOUS PLANTS OF WESTERN CORNWALL.

Alisma Damasonium (Star-headed Water Plantain) between Penzance and Marazion.
A—— Ranuncoloides. Marazion Marsh.
Anchusa Officinalis (Common Alkanet) St. Ives, &c.
Anethum Foeniculum, common near Marazion.
A—— Graveolens. Marazion Marsh.
Aquilegia Vulgaris (Common Columbine) St. Ives, Goldsithney, &c.
Antirrhinum Orontium (Lesser Snapdragon) Gulval, Land's End.
A—— Montspessilanum (Bee Orchis) Penhryn.
Anthemis Nobilis (Common Chamomile) passim.
Anthyllis Vulneraria (dwarf with a red flower.) (Kidney-Vetch, Ladies' Finger). Downs, Whitsand Bay.
Aspidium Oriopteris (Heath Shield-fern) Gear Stamps and New Mill.
Aspidium Dilatatum. Variety. (Great Crested ditto) Moist Banks.
Asplenium Marinum (Sea Spleenwort) St. Michael's Mount, Land's End, Logan rock.
A—— Lanceolatum (Lanceolate ditto) Gulval, St. Michael's Mount, Lemorna Cove, &c.
Bartsia Viscosa (Yellow Viscid Bartsia) Cornfields near Hayle.
Brassica Oleracea (Sea Cabbage) Cliffs, Penzance.
Briza Minor (Small Quaking-grass) Cornfields between Gulval and Ludgvan.
Bunias Cakile (Sea Rocket) Beach between Penzance and Newlyn.
Campanula Hederacea (Ivy-leaved Bell-flower) Trevaylor Bottom, Gear Stamps, &c.
Chironia Littoralis (Sea Centaury) Beach between Penzance and Marazion.
Cochlearia Officinalis (Common Scurvy-grass) Cliffs near the Sea, common.
Convolvulus Soldanella (Sea Bindweed) Whitsand Bay, Marazion Green.
Cucsuta Epithymum (Lesser Dodder) common upon Gorse.
Cynosurus Echinatus (Rough Dog's-tail Grass) Ludgvan.
Daucus Maritimus (Wild Carrot) Land's end, Logan rock, Botallack, &c.
Dicranum Cerviculatum (Red-necked Forked Moss) Gulval, Scilly.
D—— Crispum (Curled ditto) St. Mary's, Scilly.
Drosera Longifolia (Long-leaved Sun-dew) Marsh between Marazion and Penzance.
Erica Vagans (Cornish Heath) Lizard Peninsula.
Erodium Maritimum (Sea Stork's Bill) Sea shore, common.
E—— Cicutarium (Hemlock's Stork's Bill) ditto.
Eryngium Maritimum (Sea Holly) Sea shore, common.
Euphorbia Peplis (Purple Spurge) Marazion Green.
E—— Portlandica (Portland ditto) Scilly Islands.
Exacum Filiforme (Least Gentianella) Marazion Marsh, beyond the half way houses.
Genista Pilosa (Hairy Green-weed) Kynance Cove.
Gentiana Campestris (Field Gentian) Downs, Whitsand Bay, Lizard, &c.
Geranium Columbinum (Long-stalked Crane's-bill) Ludgvan.
G—— Sanguineum (Bloody Crane's bill) Kynance Cove.
Glaucium Luteum (Yellow Horned Poppy) Scilly Islands.
Helleborus Viridis (Green Hellebore) between Rosmorran and Kenegie, near the brook.
Herniaria Hirsuta (Hairy Rupture wort) between Mullion and the Lizard.
Hookeria Lucens (Shining Feather-moss) Trevaylor Bottom. Between Rosmorran and Kenegie.
Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense (Filmy-leaved fern) Among the loose stones at Castle An Dinas, on the east side.
Hypnum Scorpioides (Scorpion Feather-moss) Gulval, Zennor, &c.
H—— Alopecurum, variety (Fox-tail ditto) Gulval.
Illecebrum Verticillatum (Whorled Knot-grass) Gulval, Gear Stamps, Land's end.
Inula Helenium (Elecampane) Gulval, The Mount, St. Ives, Scilly.
Iris Foetidissima (Stinking Iris, Roast Beef Plant) Madron.
Linum Angustifolium (Narrow-leaved pale Flax) St. Ives.
L—— Usitatissimum. Near Redruth.
Littorella Lacustris (Plantain Shoreweed). In a watery lane near Penzance.
Mentha Odorata (Bergamot Mint) Burian.
M—— Rotundifolia (Round-leaved Mint) Between Penzance and Newlyn, Whitsand Bay.
Myrica Gale (Sweet Gale, Dutch Myrtle) Marsh, Gulval, and Ludgvan.
Neckera Heteromalla (Lateral Neckera) Trevaylor Bottom, Try, &c.
Neottia Spiralis. Between Penzance and Marazion.
Orchis Pyramidalis (Pyramidal Orchis) near Hayle.
Ornithogalum Umbellatum (Common Star of Bethlehem) near Marazion.
Ornithopus Perpusillus (Common Bird's-foot) Gulval, Carne, &c.
Osmunda Regalis (Royal Moonwort) Poltair.
Panicum Dactylum (Creeping Panick Grass) Marazion Beach.
Pinguicula Lusitanica (Pale Butterwort) Bogs in the neighbourhood.
Pyrethrum Maritimum (Sea Feverfew) Sea-shore.
Rubia Peregrina (Wild Madder) Hayle-Helston, &c.
Reseda Luteola (Wild Woad, Dyer's Weed) Coarse lands beyond Marazion.
Rumex Sanguineus (Bloody-veined Dock) Gulval.
Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher's Broom) Lemorna Cove, &c.
Salvia Verbenacea (Wild English Clary) St. Ives, Scilly, &c.
Samolus Valerandi (Brook-weed or Water Pimpernel) Land's end, &c.
Santolina Maritima (Sea Cotton weed) Marazion beach.
Saponaria Officinalis (Soap-wort) St. Levan, Tresco Island, Scilly.
Saxifraga Stellaris (Hairy Saxifrage) Logan rock.
Scilla Verna (Vernal Squill) St. Ives, near Zennor, Morvah, opposite to Three Stone Oar.
Scirpus Fluitans (Floating Club Rush) Gulval Marsh.
Scutellaria Minor (Lesser Skull-cap) Bogs, Gulval.
Scrophularia Scorodonia (Balm-leaved Figwort) St. Ives, Gulval, and Chyandour, plentifully.
Sedum Anglicum (English Stonecrop) very common.
S—— Telephium (Orpine or Livelong) Logan rock.
Sibthorpia EuropÆa (Cornish Moneywort) Moist banks, Gulval, Madron Well, Trereife Avenue; Helston, &c.
Silene Anglica (English Catchfly) common in Cornfields.
Solidago Virgaurea (Common Golden-rod) Penzance, &c.
Spergula Nodosa (Knotted Spurrey) near Marazion.
SpirÆa Filipendula (Common Dropwort) Kynance Cove.
Stachys Arvensis (Corn Woundwort) Cornfields, common.
Tamarix Gallica (French Tamarisk) The Mount-Lizard, Scilly Islands, but very probably introduced.
Trichostomum Polyphyllum (Fringe Moss) Gulval, Kenegie, &c.
Trifolium Subterraneum (Subterraneous Trefoil) near the Sea-shore.
Verbascum Nigrum (Dark Mullein) Gulval.
Utricularia Vulgaris (Common Bladderwort) between Rosmorran and Kenegie.