To exhibit the greatest variety of interesting objects, in the least possible space and time, may be said to constitute the essential excellence of a "Guide." For the accomplishment of such a purpose we now proceed to conduct the stranger to Botallack Mine and Cape Cornwall, through the Parishes of Madron, Morvah, and Saint Just.

In our road to the village of Madron, or Madron Church-town, as it is commonly called, we pass Nancealverne, the estate of John Scobell Esq., Poltair, the residence of Edward Scobell Esq., and Trengwainton the seat of Sir Rose Price, Bart. At this latter place considerable exertions have been made to raise plantations, and to clothe the granitic hills behind it with wood; and from the progress already made, we feel sanguine in the ultimate success of the enterprize. Amongst the pictures in the possession of the worthy Baronet are several of the earlier productions of Opie. The head of an aged beggar, by that artist, has frequently excited our admiration, and presents a characteristic specimen of the native simplicity and expression of his style, and the magic force of his chiaro-scuro. This head was painted also under circumstances, a knowledge of which cannot fail to heighten its interest. The father of Sir Rose having been struck by the venerable aspect of an aged mendicant as he was begging in the streets of Penzance, immediately sent for Opie, then residing in the town, and expressed a desire that the young artist should paint his portrait. The beggar was accordingly regaled with a bounteous meal upon the occasion, and Opie appears to have caught his expression at the happy moment, when like the "Last Minstrel" of our northern bard,

The Village of Madron is about two miles to the north-west of Penzance. The church is placed on an elevated situation, and commands a very striking view of Saint Michael's Mount, and its bay. Penzance is a Chapelry of this parish.

Madron Well is situated in a moor about a mile and a half from the Church-town. It is enclosed within walls, which were partially destroyed in the time of Cromwell, by Major Ceeley of St. Ives, but the remains of them are still sufficiently entire to exhibit the form of an ancient Baptistry.[48] The inner wall with its window and door-way, and the altar with a square hole or socket in the centre, which received the foot of the cross or image of the patron saint, are still perfect. The foundation of the outer wall, or anti-room, may be traced with great ease.

Superstition has, of course, attributed many virtues to waters which had been thus hallowed, and this Well, like that of Chapel Euny, has been long celebrated for its medicinal efficacy in restoring motion and activity to cripples,[49] Baptism was administered only at the stated times of Easter and Whitsuntide; but, at all seasons, the virtues of the waters attracted the lame and the impotent; and the altar was at hand to assist the devotion of their prayers, as well as to receive the offerings of their gratitude.

Chemical analysis has been unable to detect in this water the presence of any active ingredient that might explain the beneficial operation attributed to it.

In the road to Morvah we meet with the celebrated Cromlech[50] at Lanyon. It is placed on a prominent hill, and from its lonely situation, and the wildness of the country by which it is surrounded, it cannot fail to inspire sensations of reverential awe in every one who approaches it.[51] This rude monument has been long known amongst the country people by the appellation of the "Giant's Quoit." When the last edition of this "Guide" went to the press it was still standing in its original position, and was thus described. It consists of three unshapen pillars inclining from the perpendicular, which support a large table stone (resembling a Discus or Quoit) in a horizontal position, the direction of which is nearly north and south. The flat stone is 47 feet in girth, and 12 in length, and its height from the ground is sufficient to enable a man on horseback to pass under it.—The aged monument, however, has at length bent beneath the hand of time, and fallen on its side. Its downfall, which happened during a violent tempest, occasioned a universal feeling of regret in the country.

In the same tenement, about a quarter of a mile west of Lanyon house, is another monument of this kind, nearly as large as the former; and it is singular that this should have been the only Cromlech in Corwall which escaped the notice of Dr. Borlase. It has fallen on its edge, but is still entire.

All our notions respecting the origin and use of these monuments are purely conjectural; it seems, however, very probable that they are the most ancient in the world, erected possibly by one of the first colonists which came into the island. As Cromlechs are known to abound in every country where the Celts established themselves, many antiquaries have concluded that they are of Celtic origin. The same doubt and uncertainty involve every consideration with respect to their use; it has been a general idea that they were intended for altars, but the upper stone is evidently too gibbous ever to have admitted the officiating priest, or to have allowed him to stand to overlook the fire, and the consumption of the victim; besides, what occasion is there to suppose a Cromlech any thing more than a sepulchral monument? Is it not the most natural and probable conclusion? Indeed Mr. Wright actually found a skeleton deposited under one of them in Ireland, and it must strike the most superficial observer that our modern tombs are not very dissimilar to the former in their construction, and probably derived their form from a very ancient model.

Men-an-Tol. The next object of curiosity consists of three stones on a triangular plane, the middle one of which is perforated with a large hole, and is called Men-an-Tol, i. e. the holed stone. Dr. Borlase who, as we have often observed, has recourse to the chisel of Druidism to account for every cavity or crevice, conjectures that it was appropriated to the rites of that priesthood, and asserts, on the authority of a farmer, that even in his time, it was deemed to possess the power of healing those who would crawl through it.

In a croft, about half a mile to the north-west of Lanyon, lies a very ancient sepulchral stone, called by the Cornish "Men Skryfa," i. e. the Inscribed Stone. It is nine feet ten inches long, and one foot eight inches broad; the inscription upon it is "Riolobran Cunoval Fil," which signifies Riolobran the Son of Cunoval lies buried here.[52] With respect to the date of this monument, all antiquaries agree in thinking that it must have been engraven before the corruptions crept into the Roman alphabet, such for instance as the junction of the letters by unnatural links, or when the down strokes of one were made to serve for two, &c. This practice arose soon after the Romans went off, and increased until the Saxon letters were introduced at Athelstan's conquest. The most striking deviation from the Roman orthography to be observed in this monument is in the cross stroke of the Roman N not being diagonal as it ought to be, nor yet quite horizontal as we find it in the sixth century; and hence it is fair to assign to it a date antecedent to that period.[53]

Chun Castle, a prominent object in this neighbourhood, is similar to Caerbran Round, which has been described, except that the ruins are more extensive, and less confused. The remains occupy the whole area of a hill commanding a wide tract of country to the east, some low grounds to the north and south, and the wide expanded ocean to the west. Another Cromlech may also be seen from this spot, and stands upon the very line which divides the parishes of Morvah and Saint Just; but it is far inferior to that at Lanyon. We will now for awhile abandon the contemplation of these faded monuments of past ages, and proceed to the examination of a rich and interesting field of mineralogical and geological research. In introducing the stranger, however, to the district of Saint Just, we must repeat to him the caution with which Mr. Carne[54] has very prudently accompanied his history of its mineral productions. "If the stranger on his arrival shall expect to find any of the minerals so prominently situated as to salute his eyes at once; or if he shall suppose that those objects which are especially worthy of notice in a geological point of view, are to be discovered and examined in the space of a few hours, he will be greatly mistaken and disappointed; for very few, either of the minerals or the veins are to be found in situ, except by a diligent, patient, and persevering search."

Without further delay we shall now attend the traveller to Pendeen Cove; in our road to which, the only objects worthy attention are the Stamping Mills, and Burning Houses or Roasting Furnaces, belonging to Botallack Mine. They are situated on the bank of the river which runs into the sea at Pendeen Cove. The Tin ore of Botallack is generally mixed with a portion of Sulphuret of Copper, which not being separable from it by the mechanical process of dressing, is submitted to the action of a roasting furnace, by which the Copper being converted into an oxide, and the Sulphur into Sulphuric acid, a Sulphate of Copper is thus produced, which is easily separated by washing. The solution obtained is then poured into casks, containing pieces of iron, by the agency of which the Copper is precipitated.[55]

There is to be seen at Pendeen, a cave, known by the name of Pendeen Vau, and concerning which there are many ridiculous stories. It appears to have been one of those hiding places in which the Britons secreted themselves, and their property, from the attacks of the Saxons and Danes. The cave is still almost entire, a circumstance which is principally owing to the superstitious fears of the inhabitants, many of whom, at this very day, entertain a dread of entering it.

At Pendeen Cove, the Geologist will meet with several phenomena well worthy his attention. At the junction of the Slate and Granite, veins of the latter will be observed traversing the former rock, and what is particularly worthy of notice, they may be seen emanating from a great mass of granite and passing into the schistose rock by which it is covered. One part of the cliff of this cove consists of large fragments of granite imbedded in clay and earth; the interstices of which are filled with white sand, which has been probably blown there from the beach; through this sand, water impregnated with iron is slowly percolating, the effect of which is the induration of the sand, and the formation of a breccia, which in some parts has acquired very considerable hardness.

Before proceeding to the metalliferous district of Saint Just, we may observe that, if the traveller's object be to reach Saint Ives by the road along the cliffs, through the parish of Zennor, he will meet with a most cheerless country, but by no means destitute of geological interest. He ought particularly to examine a bold rocky promontory, called the "Gurnard's Head," where he will find a succession of beds of slaty felspar, hornblende rock, and greenstone. The geology of this headland has been accurately described by Dr. Forbes in the second volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall. Polmear Cove ought also to be visited on account of the Granite veins, which are perhaps as singular and interesting as any of those already described.—But let us proceed to complete our examination of the coast of Saint Just. Many of the mines are situated on the very edge of the cliff, and are wrought to a considerable distance under the sea; but all communication to them is from land.[56] For a description of the numerous minerals found in this district,[57] we must refer the reader to the highly valuable paper by Joseph Carne, Esq. which is published in the second volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall. We cannot, however, allow the mineralogist to pass Trewellard, without reminding him that, at this spot, Axinite was first discovered in Cornwall, and that the most beautifully crystallized specimens of that mineral, scarcely inferior to those brought from DauphinÉ, may still be procured here. In the cliff at Huel Cock Carn, a vein of this mineral, of a violet colour, three feet in width, may be traced for upwards of twenty yards; and in its vicinity there is to be found also a vein of garnet rock. Apatite, of a greyish-white colour, associated with Hornblende, may be seen in the same spot. In the slate rocks between Huel Cock and Botallack, Prehnite has lately been found, for the first time; it appears to form a small vein, which in one part is divided into two branches. Upon the discovery of the above mineral, says Mr. Joseph Carne, an expectation was naturally formed, that Zeolite, its frequent associate, and an equal stranger to Cornwall, might shortly make its appearance. This opinion has been lately verified by the discovery of, at least, two varieties of that mineral, imbedded in the Prehnite vein, viz. Stilbite, or foliated Zeolite, crystallized in flat four-sided prisms, with quadrangular summits; and the radiated Mesotype, which sometimes contains nodules of Prehnite. Other specimens have been found in rather an earthy state, and may possibly be the mealy Zeolite of Jameson. In the same slate rocks Apatite occurs of a yellowish-green colour, and crystallized in hexaedral prisms. In the granite rocks on the high hills south-east of Trewellard, Pinite is to be observed.

We arrive at the "Crown Engine" of Botallack—

This is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary and surprising places in the mining districts of Cornwall, whether considered for the rare and rich assemblage of its minerals, or for the wild and stupendous character of its rock scenery. Surely, if ever a spot seemed to bid defiance to the successful efforts of the miner, it was the site of the Crown Engine[58] at Botallack, where at the very commencement of his subterranean labours, he was required to lower a steam engine down a precipice of more than two hundred feet, with the view of extending his operations under the bed of the Atlantic ocean!!! There is something in the very idea which alarms the imagination; and the situation and appearance of the gigantic machine, together with the harsh jarring of its bolts, re-echoed from the surrounding rocks, are well calculated to excite our astonishment.

But if you are thus struck and surprised at the scene when viewed from the cliff above, how much greater will be your wonder if you descend to the surface of the mine. You will then behold a combination of the powers of art with the wild sublimity of Nature which is quite unparalleled; the effects of the whole being not a little heightened by the hollow roar of the raging billows which are perpetually lashing the cliff beneath. In looking up you will observe troops of mules laden with sacks of coals, for the supply of the engine, with their undaunted riders, fearlessly trotting down the winding path which you trembled at descending even on foot. As you approach the engine, the cliff becomes almost perpendicular, and the ore raised from the mine is therefore drawn up over an inclined plane,[59] by means of a horse engine placed on the extreme verge of the overhanging rocks above, and which seems to the spectator below as if suspended in "mid air."

The workings of this mine extend at least seventy fathoms in length under the bed of the sea; and in these caverns of darkness are many human beings, for a small pittance, and even that of a precarious amount, constantly digging for ore, regardless of the horrors which surround them, and of the roar of the Atlantic ocean, whose boisterous waves are incessantly rolling over their heads. We should feel pity for the wretch who, as an atonement for his crimes, should be compelled to undergo the task which the Cornish miner voluntarily undertakes, and as cheerfully performs; yet such is the force of habit, that very rarely does any other employment tempt him to forsake his own; the perils of his occupation are scarcely noticed, or if noticed, are soon forgotten.

The Lode[60] of the mine may be seen cropping out, in the group of rocks beneath the engine. The ore is the grey and yellow sulphuret of copper, mixed with the oxide of tin,[61] of which she[62] has already "turned up" a sufficient quantity to afford a very handsome premium to the adventurers. In the grey sulphuret of this mine, purple copper ore, of the kind called by the Germans "Buntkupfererz," is frequently met with. Besides which, a great number of interesting minerals may be collected, as several varieties of Jasper; arborescent native Copper; Jaspery iron ore; Arseniate of Iron, which until it was discovered in the Crown lode of Botallack, was unknown in St. Just. It is of a brown colour, and is crystallized in cubes. Sulphuret of Bismuth, imbedded in Jasper; beautiful specular iron ore; hÆmatitic Iron; and the hydrous oxide of iron, in prisms terminated by pyramids, and which was supposed by the Count de Bournon to contain Titanium. The picturesque rocks of this district may be considered as composed of Hornblende rock, which will be found to alternate with slate. The contorted appearance of the former in the vicinity of Botallack is very singular, and will admit of much speculation. The Crown rocks, to which the mineralogist must not neglect to descend, consist of extremely compact Hornblende rock, in which occur numerous veins and beds of different minerals; viz. veins of Garnet rock, with numerous imbedded crystals, being at one part almost a foot in width; Magnetic Iron Pyrites, massive, in beds, near the engine; its colour is bluish-grey, and it is called by the workmen Spelter, who mistake it probably for Blende, which latter mineral also occurs here in considerable quantities. In a part of the rock, which is almost inaccessible, there is a vein of Epidote, distinctly crystallized, and about six inches wide. The miners, however descend the fearful precipice without any difficulty, in order to collect specimens for the inquisitive visitant. Axinite also occurs in veins, or perhaps in beds; Thallite, Chlorite, Tremolite, and a black crystallized Schorl, in which the late Rev. William Gregor detected six per cent. of Titanium, are to be found also in this interesting spot.

Cape Cornwall is the next object of interest after Botallack. This point of land stretches out to the west, at an elevation of two hundred and thirty feet, and forms the northern boundary of Whitsand Bay (p. 88). It is entirely composed of a slaty rock, traversed by numerous veins of Actinolite. To the geologist this spot will be interesting, since on the shore beneath, a junction may be observed between the Granite of the Land's End, and the slate of this promontory.[63] These formations are separated by a large vein of metalliferous quartz, which forms the lode of the mine in the neighbourhood, called "Little Bounds," and whose engine suspended in the cliff above, constitutes a very striking feature in the scenery. This vein, besides Oxide of Tin, for which it is worked, contains Native Copper, different Oxides of Iron, Red Jasper, Quartz of a bright brownish red colour, and Scaly red Iron ore, sometimes investing Quartz, and occasionally in small masses consisting of red cohering scales, which are unctuous to the touch.

Mr. Carne states, that in this mine three distinct lodes, distant from each other, have been worked under the sea; two of them being in granite, the third in slate. Here also, at two parts of the lode, known by the name of "Save-all's lode," probably, as the name would seem to imply, in consequence of the avarice of the miner, a communication has been made between the sea and the mine; one of them is at about high water mark at spring tides; the other is covered by the sea at every tide, except at very low neaps; great and constant attention is therefore necessary for the security of this latter breach. At first the opening was stopped by a piece of wood covered with turf; but as this defence was not found to be sufficiently secure, a thick platform caulked like the deck of a ship, was ultimately placed upon it, and which renders it nearly water proof. The breaking of the waves is heard in all the levels of the mine, and in the part directly beneath the pebbly beach, the rolling of the stones in boisterous weather produces a most terrific effect. In the drift at the forty fathom level, which is carried a considerable way under the sea, Mr. Chenhalls, the intelligent agent of the mine, had formerly observed a successive formation of Stalactites; in consequence of which statement, Dr. John Davy and Mr. Majendie were induced to visit the spot. It had been closed for two years previously, but before it was shut up Mr. Chenhalls had carefully removed all the Stalactites which then existed. Upon examination it was observed that a fresh crop had been produced during the interval just stated; some of which were eighteen inches in length, and above an inch in diameter. The Stalagmites directly underneath them were of still larger dimensions; both however had the same yellowish-brown colour, and were found to consist of Peroxide of iron. Specimens may be seen in the cabinet at Penzance. Dr. Paris has suggested that they resulted from the decomposition of Pyrites, forming, in the first instance, a soluble Sulphate of iron, but which, by attracting farther oxygen, deposited its base in the form here discovered.

At a little distance southward of Cape Cornwall, is a high rocky promontory called Caraglose Head, from which the traveller may command one of the most interesting views in this part of Cornwall. On the north are Cape Cornwall, and the romantic machinery of Little Bounds Mine. Southward and directly under the head, the interesting creek called Pornanvon Cove, with the engine of Huel St. Just Tin Mine near the sea shore. Westward, on a clear day, the Scilly Islands may be distinctly seen. This is a spot seldom visited by strangers, but with the exception of Botallack, it is certainly one of the most striking in the district of Saint Just. At Pornanvon Cove, a stratum of sea sand and pebbles may be seen in the cliff, at an elevation of fifteen feet above high water mark!

Advancing from the coast into the interior of the country towards Saint Just's Church-town, Dr. Berger observed many blocks of Schorl rock[64] scattered on this part of the granitic plain, particularly amongst the rubbish of some old tin mines, which are here very numerous, but are now quite deserted.

Saint Just Church Town. Nothing of any interest is to be seen at this place, except a very ancient cross, a sketch of which we shall introduce at the conclusion of the present chapter; and the remains of an ancient Amphitheatre.

In this, and similar "Rounds," as they are provincially called, the ancient British assembled, in order to witness those athletic sports, for which the Cornish are still remarkable; indeed, at this very day, wrestling matches are held in the amphitheatre at Saint Just, during the holidays of Easter and Whitsuntide.[65]

The Antiquary ought not to quit this parish without visiting the "Botallack Circles;" when examined separately they do not differ essentially from that at Bolleit, or at Boscawen Un before described (p. 81); but they intersect each other and form a confused cluster; "but in this seeming confusion," exclaims Dr. Borlase, "I cannot but think that there was some mystical meaning, or, at least, distinct allotment to particular uses; some of these might be employed for the sacrifice, others allotted to prayer, others to the feasting of the priests, others for the station of those who devoted the victims; and lastly, that these circles intersected each other in so remarkable a manner, as we find them in this monument, might be to intimate that each of these holy rites, though exercised in different circles, were but so many links of one and the same chain, and that there was a constant dependance and connection between sacrifice, prayer, holy feasting, and all the several parts of Druidical worship."

In taking leave of the metalliferous district of Saint Just we have to observe, that it has been considered by Mr. Carne, and not without probability, as having constituted the principal portion of what was formerly known under the name of the Cassiterides, and that if it would redound to the honour, or contribute to the prosperity of Saint Just, it might be said, "that her Tin was probably a constituent part of the Shield and Helmet of Achilles,—of the Tabernacle of the Israelites,—of the Purple of Tyre,—and of the Temple of Solomon."

From Saint Just's Church-town, the road conducts us over a wild part of the peninsula, although highly salubrious, and invigorating from the fine sea breezes which blow from every side; after a ride over such bleak and barren hills, the eye experiences a singular repose on our approach to the cultivated shores of the Mount's Bay.

Saint Just.