CHAPTER X

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The proper installation of the airplane power plant is more important than is generally supposed, as while these engines are usually well balanced and run with little vibration, it is necessary that they be securely anchored and that various connections to the auxiliary parts be carefully made in order to prevent breakage from vibration and that attendant risk of motor stoppage while in the air. The type of motor to be installed determines the method of installation to be followed. As a general rule six-cylinder vertical engine and eight-cylinder Vee type are mounted in substantially the same way. The radial, fixed cylinder forms and the radial, rotary cylinder Gnome and Le Rhone rotary types require an entirely different method of mounting. Some unconventional mountings have been devised, notably that shown at Fig. 144, which is a six-cylinder German engine that is installed in just the opposite way to that commonly followed. The inverted cylinder construction is not generally followed because even with pressure feed, dry crank-case type lubricating system there is considerable danger of over-lubrication and of oil collecting and carbonizing in the combustion chamber and gumming up the valve action much quicker than would be the case if the engine was operated in the conventional upright position. The reason for mounting an engine in this way is to obtain a lower center of gravity and also to make for more perfect streamlining of the front end of the fuselage in some cases. It is rather doubtful if this slight advantage will compensate for the disadvantages introduced by this unusual construction. It is not used to any extent now but is presented merely to show one of the possible systems of installing an airplane engine.

Fig. 144

Fig. 144.—Unconventional Mounting of German Inverted Cylinder Motor.

Fig. 145

Fig. 145.—How Curtiss Model OX-2 Motor is Installed in Fuselage of Curtiss Tractor Biplane. Note Similarity of Mounting to Automobile Power Plant.

In a number of airplanes of the tractor-biplane type the power plant installation is not very much different than that which is found in automobile practice. The illustration at Fig. 145 is a very clear representation of the method of mounting the Curtiss eight-cylinder 90 H. P. or model OX-2 engine in the fuselage of the Curtiss JN-4 tractor biplane which is so generally used in the United States as a training machine. It will be observed that the fuel tank is mounted under a cowl directly behind the motor and that it feeds the carburetor by means of a flexible fuel pipe. As the tank is mounted higher than the carburetor, it will feed that member by gravity. The radiator is mounted at the front end of the fuselage and connected to the water piping on the motor by the usual rubber hose connections. An oil pan is placed under the engine and the top is covered with a hood just as in motor car practice. The panels of aluminum are attached to the sides of the fuselage and are supplied with doors which open and provide access to the carburetor, oil-gauge and other parts of the motor requiring inspection. The complete installation with the power plant enclosed is given at Fig. 146, and in this it will be observed that the exhaust pipes are connected to discharge members that lead the gases above the top plane. In the engine shown at Fig. 145 the exhaust flows directly into the air at the sides of the machine through short pipes bolted to the exhaust gas outlet ports. The installation of the radiator just back of the tractor screw insures that adequate cooling will be obtained because of the rapid air flow due to the propeller slip stream.

Fig. 146

Fig. 146.—Latest Model of Curtiss JN-4 Training Machine, Showing Thorough Enclosure of Power Plant and Method of Disposing of the Exhaust Gases.

Fig. 147

Fig. 147.—Front View of L. W. F. Tractor Biplane Fuselage, Showing Method of Installing Thomas Aeromotor and Method of Disposing of Exhaust Gases.

INSTALLATION OF CURTISS OX-2 ENGINE

The following instructions are given in the Curtiss Instruction Book for installing the OX-2 engine and preparing it for flights, and taken in connection with the very clear illustration presented no difficulty should be experienced in understanding the proper installation, and mounting of this power plant. The bearers or beds should be 2 inches wide by 3 inches deep, preferably of laminated hard wood, and placed 115/8 inches apart. They must be well braced. The six arms of the base of the motor are drilled for 3/8-inch bolts, and none but this size should he used.

1. Anchoring the Motor. Put the bolts in from the bottom, with a large washer under the head of each so the head cannot cut into the wood. On every bolt use a castellated nut and a cotter pin, or an ordinary nut and a lock washer, so the bolt will not work loose. Always set motor in place and fasten before attaching any auxiliary apparatus, such as carburetor, etc.

2. Inspecting the Ignition-Switch Wires. The wires leading from the ignition switch must be properly connected—one end to the motor body for ground, and the other end to the post on the breaker box of the magneto.

3. Filling the Radiator. Be sure that the water from the radiator fills the cylinder jackets. Pockets of air may remain in the cylinder jackets even though the radiator may appear full. Turn the motor over a few times by hand after filling the radiator, and then add more water if the radiator will take it. The air pockets, if allowed to remain, may cause overheating and develop serious trouble when the motor is running.

4. Filling the Oil Reservoir. Oil is admitted into the crank-case through the breather tube at the rear. It is well to strain all oil put into the crank-case. In filling the oil reservoir be sure to turn the handle on the oil sight-gauge till it is at right angles with the gauge. The oil sight-gauge is on the side of the lower half of the crank-case. Put in about 3 gallons of the best obtainable oil, Mobile B recommended. It is important to remember that the very best oil is none too good.

5. Oiling Exposed Moving Parts. Oil all rocker-arm bearings before each flight. A little oil should be applied where the push rods pass through the stirrup straps.

6. Filling the Gasoline Tanks. Be certain that all connections in the gasoline system are tight.

7. Turning on the Gasoline. Open the cock leading from the gasoline tank to the carburetor.

8. Charging the Cylinders. With the ignition switch OFF, prime the motor by squirting a little gasoline in each exhaust port and then turn the propeller backward two revolutions. Never open the exhaust valve by operating the rocker-arm by hand, as the push-rod is liable to come out of its socket in the cam follower and bend the rocker-arm when the motor turns over.

9. Starting the Motor by Hand. Always retard the spark part way, to prevent back-firing, by pulling forward the wire attached to the breaker box. Failure to so retard the spark in starting may result in serious injury to the operator. Turn on the ignition switch with throttle partly open; give a quick, strong pull down and outward on the starting crank or propeller. As soon as the motor is started advance the spark by releasing the retard wire.

10. Oil Circulation. Let the motor run at low speed for a few minutes in order to establish oil circulation in all bearings. With all parts functioning properly, the throttle may be opened gradually for warming up before flight.

STANDARD S.A.E. ENGINE BED DIMENSIONS

The Society of Automotive Engineers have made efforts to standardize dimensions of bed timbers for supporting power plant in an aeroplane. Owing to the great difference in length no standardization is thought possible in this regard. The dimensions recommended are as follows:

Distance between timbers 12 in. 14 in. 16 in.
Width of bed timbers 1 1/2 in. 1 3/4 in. 2 in.
Distance between centers of bolts 13 1/2 in. 15 3/4 in. 18 in.

It will be evident that if any standard of this nature were adopted by engine builders that the designers of fuselage could easily arrange their bed timbers to conform to these dimensions, whereas it would be difficult to have them adhere to any standard longitudinal dimensions which are much more easily varied in fuselages than the transverse dimensions are. It, however, should be possible to standardize the longitudinal positions of the holding down bolts as the engine designer would still be able to allow himself considerable space fore-and-aft of the bolts.

HALL-SCOTT ENGINE INSTALLATION

Fig. 148

Fig. 148.—End Elevation of Hall-Scott A-7 Four-Cylinder Motor, with Installation Dimensions.

Fig. 149

Fig. 149.—Plan and Side Elevation of Hall-Scott A-7 Four-Cylinder Airplane Engine, with Installation Dimensions.

The very thorough manner in which installation diagrams are prepared by the leading engine makers leaves nothing to the imagination. The dimensions of the Hall-Scott four-cylinder airplane engine are given clearly in our inch measurements with the metric equivalents at Figs. 148 and 149, the former showing a vertical elevation while the latter has a plan view and side elevation. The installation of this engine in airplanes is clearly shown at Figs. 150 and 151, the former having the radiator installed at the front of the motor and having all exhaust pipes joined to one common discharge funnel, which deflects the gas over the top plane while the latter has the radiator placed vertically above the motor at the back end and has a direct exhaust gas discharge to the air.

Fig. 150.

CENSORED

Fig. 151.

CENSORED

The dimensions of the six-cylinder Hall-Scott motor which is known as the type A-5 125 H. P. are given at Fig. 152, which is an end sectional elevation, and at Fig. 153, which is a plan view. The dimensions are given both in inch sizes and the metric equivalents. The appearance of a Hall-Scott six-cylinder engine installed in a fuselage is given at Fig. 154, while a diagram showing the location of the engine and the various pipes leading to the auxiliary groups is outlined at Fig. 155. The following instructions for installing the Hall-Scott power plant are reproduced from the instruction book issued by the maker. Operating instructions which are given should enable any good mechanic to make a proper installation and to keep the engine in good running condition.

Fig. 152.

CENSORED

Fig. 153

Fig. 153.—Plan View of Hall-Scott Type A-5 125 Horse-Power Airplane Engine, Showing Installation Dimensions.

Fig. 154

Fig. 154.—Three-Quarter View of Hall-Scott Type A-5 125 Horse-Power Six-Cylinder Engine, with One of the Side Radiators Removed to Show Installation in Standard Fuselage.

Fig. 155

Fig. 155.—Diagram Showing Proper Installation of Hall-Scott Type A-5 125 Horse-Power Engine with Pressure Feed Fuel Supply System.

FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

Gasoline giving the best results with this equipment is as follows: Gravity 58-62 deg. Baume A. Initial boiling point—Richmond method—102° Fahr. Sulphur .014. Calorimetric bomb test 20610 B. T. U. per pound. If the gasoline tank is placed in the fuselage below the level of the carburetor, a hand pump must be used to maintain air pressure in gas tank to force the gasoline to the carburetor. After starting the engine the small auxiliary air pump upon the engine will maintain sufficient pressure. A-7a and A-5a engines are furnished with a new type auxiliary air pump. This should be frequently oiled and care taken so no grit or sand will enter which might lodge between the valve and its seat, which would make it fail to operate properly. An air relief valve is furnished with each engine. It should be screwed into the gas tank and properly regulated to maintain the pressure required. This is done by screwing the ratchet on top either up or down. If two tanks are used in a plane one should be installed in each tank. All air pump lines should be carefully gone over quite frequently to ascertain if they are tight. Check valves have to be placed in these lines. In some cases the gasoline tank is placed above the engine, allowing it to drain by gravity to the carburetor. When using this system there should be a drop of not less than two feet from the lowest portion of the gasoline tank to the upper part of the carburetor float chamber. Even this height might not be sufficient to maintain the proper volume of gasoline to the carburetor at high speeds. Air pressure is advised upon all tanks to insure the proper supply of gasoline. When using gravity feed without air pressure be sure to vent the tank to allow circulation of air. If gravity tank is used and the engine runs satisfactorily at low speeds but cuts out at high speeds the trouble is undoubtedly due to insufficient height of the tank above the carburetor. The tank should be raised or air pressure system used.

IGNITION SWITCHES

Two “DIXIE” switches are furnished with each engine. Both of these should be installed in the pilot’s seat, one controlling the R. H., and the other the L. H. magneto. By shorting either one or the other it can be quickly determined if both magnetos, with their respective spark-plugs, are working correctly. Care should be taken not to use spark-plugs having special extensions or long protruding points. Plugs giving best results are extremely small with short points.

WATER SYSTEMS

A temperature gauge should be installed in the water pipe, coming directly from the cylinder nearest the propeller (note illustration above). This instrument installed in the radiator cap has not always given satisfactory results. This is especially noticeable when the water in the radiator becomes low, not allowing it to touch the bulb on the moto-meter. For ordinary running, it should not indicate over 150 degrees Fahr. In climbing tests, however, a temperature of 160 degrees Fahr. can be maintained without any ill effects upon the engine. In case the engine becomes overheated, the indicator will register above 180 degrees Fahr., in which case it should be stopped immediately. Overheating is most generally caused by retarded spark, excessive carbon in the cylinders, insufficient lubrication, improperly timed valves, lack of water, clogging of water system in any way which would obstruct the free circulation of the water.

Overheating will cause the engine to knock, with possible damaging results. Suction pipes should be made out of thin tubing, and run within a quarter or an eighth of an inch of each other, so that when a hose is placed over the two, it will not be possible to suck together. This is often the case when a long rubber hose is used, which causes overheating. Radiators should be flushed out and cleaned thoroughly quite often. A dirty radiator may cause overheating.

When filling the radiator it is very important to remove the plug on top of the water pump until water appears. This is to avoid air pockets being formed in the circulating system, which might not only heat up the engine, but cause considerable damage. All water pump hoses and connections should be tightly taped and shellacked after the engine is properly installed in the plane. The greatest care should be taken when making engine installation not to use smaller inside diameter hose connection than water pump suction end casting. One inch and a quarter inside diameter should be used on A-7 and A-5 motors, while nothing less than one inch and a half inside diameter hose or tubing on all A-7a and A-5a engines. It is further important to have light spun tubing, void of any sharp turns, leads from pump to radiator and cylinder water outlet to radiator. In other words, the water circulation through the engine must be as little restricted as possible. Be sure no light hose is used, that will often suck together when engine is started. To thoroughly drain the water from the entire system, open the drain cock at the lowest side of the water pump.

PREPARATIONS TO START ENGINE

Always replenish gasoline tanks through a strainer which is clean. This strainer must catch all water and other impurities in the gasoline. Pour at least three gallons of fresh oil into the lower crank-case. Oil all rocker arms through oilers upon rocker arm housing caps. Be sure radiators are filled within one inch of the top.

After all the parts are oiled, and the tanks filled, the following must be looked after before starting: See if crank-shaft flange is tight on shaft. See if propeller bolts are tight and evenly drawn up. See if propeller bolts are wired. See if propeller is trued up to within 1/8''.

Every four days the magnetos should be oiled if the engine is in daily use.

Every month all cylinder hold-down nuts should be gone over to ascertain if they are tight. (Be sure to recotter nuts.)

See if magnetos are bolted on tight and wired.

See if magneto cables are in good condition.

See if rocker arm tappets have a .020'' clearance from valve stem when valve is seated.

See if tappet clamp screws are tight and cottered.

See if all gasoline, oil, water pipes and connections are in perfect condition.

Air on gas line should be tested for leaks.

Pump at least three pounds air pressure into gasoline tank.

After making sure that above rules have been observed, test compression of cylinders by turning propeller.

“DO NOT FORGET TO SHORT BOTH MAGNETOS”

Be sure all compression release and priming cocks do not leak compression. If they do, replace same with a new one immediately, as this might cause premature firing.

Open priming cocks and squirt some gasoline into each.

Close cocks.

Open compression release cocks.

Open throttle slightly.

If using Berling magnetos they should be three-quarters advanced.

If all the foregoing directions have been carefully followed, the engine is ready for starting.

In cranking engine either by starting crank, or propeller, it is essential to throw it over compression quickly.

Immediately upon starting, close compression release cocks.

When engine is running, advance magnetos.

After it has warmed up, short one magneto and then the other, to be sure both magnetos and spark-plugs are firing properly. If there is a miss, the fouled plug must be located and cleaned. There is a possibility that the jets in the carburetor are stopped up. If this is the case, do not attempt to clean same with any sharp instrument. If this is done, it might change the opening in the jets, thus spoiling the adjustment. Jets and nozzles should be blown out with air or steam.

An open intake or exhaust valve, which might have become sluggish or stuck from carbon, might cause trouble. Be sure to remedy this at once by using a little coal-oil or kerosene on same, working the valve by hand until it becomes free. We recommend using graphite on valve stems mixed with oil to guard against sticking or undue wear.

INSTALLING ROTARY AND RADIAL CYLINDER ENGINES

Fig. 156

Fig. 156.—Diagram Defining Installation of Gnome “Monosoupape” Motor in Tractor Biplane. Note Necessary Piping for Fuel, Oil, and Air Lines.

Fig. 157

Fig. 157.—Showing Two Methods of Placing Propeller on Gnome Rotary Motor.

When rotary engines are installed simple steel stamping or “spiders,” are attached to the fuselage to hold the fixed crank-shaft. Inasmuch as the motor projects clear of the fuselage proper there is plenty of room back of the front spider plate to install the auxiliary parts such as the oil pump, air pump and ignition magneto and also the fuel and oil containers. The diagram given at Fig. 156 shows how a Gnome “monosoupape” engine is installed on the anchorage plates and it also outlines clearly the piping necessary to convey the oil and fuel and also the air-piping needed to put pressure on both fuel and oil tanks to insure positive supply of these liquids which may be carried in tanks placed lower than the motor in some installations. The diagram given at Figs. 157 and 158 shows other mountings of Gnome engines and are self-explanatory. The simple mounting possible when the Anzani ten-cylinder radial fixed type engine is used given at Fig. 159. The front end of the fuselage is provided with a substantial pressed steel plate having members projecting from it which may be bolted to the longerons. The bolts that hold the two halves of the crank-case together project through the steel plate and hold the engine securely to the front end of the fuselage.

Fig. 158

Fig. 158.—How Gnome Rotary Motor May Be Attached to Airplane Fuselage Members.

Fig. 159

Fig. 159.—How Anzani Ten-Cylinder Radial Engine is Installed to Plate Securely Attached to Front End of Tractor Airplane Fuselage.

PRACTICAL HINTS TO LOCATE ENGINE TROUBLES

One who is not thoroughly familiar with engine construction will seldom locate troubles by haphazard experimenting and it is only by a systematic search that the cause can be discovered and the defects eliminated. In this chapter the writer proposes to outline some of the most common power-plant troubles and to give sufficient advice to enable those who are not thoroughly informed to locate them by a logical process of elimination. The internal-combustion motor, which is the power plant of all gasoline automobiles as well as airplanes, is composed of a number of distinct groups, which in turn include distinct components. These various appliances are so closely related to each other that defective action of any one may interrupt the operation of the entire power plant. Some of the auxiliary groups are more necessary than others and the power plant will continue to operate for a time even after the failure of some important parts of some of the auxiliary groups. The gasoline engine in itself is a complete mechanism, but it is evident that it cannot deliver any power without some means of supplying gas to the cylinders and igniting the compressed gas charge after it has been compressed in the cylinders. From this it is patent that the ignition and carburetion systems are just as essential parts of the power plant as the piston, connecting rod, or cylinder of the motor. The failure of either the carburetor or igniting means to function properly will be immediately apparent by faulty action of the power plant.

To insure that the motor will continue to operate it is necessary to keep it from overheating by some form of cooling system and to supply oil to the moving parts to reduce friction. The cooling and lubrication groups are not so important as carburetion and ignition, as the engine would run for a limited period of time even should the cooling system fail or the oil supply cease. It would only be a few moments, however, before the engine would overheat if the cooling system was at fault, and the parts seize if the lubricating system should fail. Any derangement in the carburetor or ignition mechanism would manifest itself at once because the engine operation would be affected, but a defect in the cooling or oiling system would not be noticed so readily.

The careful aviator will always inspect the motor mechanism before starting on a trip of any consequence, and if inspection is carefully carried out and loose parts tightened it is seldom that irregular operation will be found due to actual breakage of any of the components of the mechanism. Deterioration due to natural causes matures slowly, and sufficient warning is always given when parts begin to wear so satisfactory repairs may be promptly made before serious derangement or failure is manifested.

A TYPICAL ENGINE STOPPAGE ANALYZED

Before describing the points that may fail in the various auxiliary systems it will be well to assume a typical case of engine failure and show the process of locating the trouble in a systematic manner by indicating the various steps which are in logical order and which could reasonably be followed. In any case of engine failure the ignition system, motor compression, and carburetor should be tested first. If the ignition system is functioning properly one should determine the amount of compression in all cylinders and if this is satisfactory the carbureting group should be tested. If the ignition system is working properly and there is a decided resistance in the cylinders when the propeller is turned, proving that there is good compression, one may suspect the carburetor.

Fig. 160

Fig. 160.—Side Elevation of Thomas 135 Horse-Power Airplane Engine, Giving Important Dimensions.

If the carburetor appears to be in good condition, the trouble may be caused by the ignition being out of time, which condition is possible when the magneto timing gear or coupling is attached to the armature shaft by a taper and nut retention instead of the more positive key or taper-pin fastening. It is possible that the inlet manifold may be broken or perforated, that the exhaust valve is stuck on its seat because of a broken or bent stem, broken or loose cam, or failure of the cam-shaft drive because the teeth are stripped from the engine shaft or cam-shaft gears; or because the key or other fastening on either gear has failed, allowing that member to turn independently of the shaft to which it normally is attached. The gasoline feed pipe may be clogged or broken, the fuel supply may be depleted, or the shut-off cock in the gasoline line may have jarred closed. The gasoline filter may be filled with dirt or water which prevents passage of the fuel.

Fig. 161

Fig. 161.—Front Elevation of Thomas-Morse 135 Horse-Power Aeromotor, Showing Main Dimensions.

The defects outlined above, except the failure of the gasoline supply, are very rare, and if the container is found to contain fuel and the pipe line to be clear to the carburetor, it is safe to assume the vaporizing device is at fault. If fuel continually runs out of the mixing chamber the carburetor is said to be flooded. This condition results from failure of the shut-off needle to seat properly or from a punctured hollow metal float or a gasoline-soaked cork float. It is possible that not enough gasoline is present in the float chamber. If the passage controlled by the float-needle valve is clogged or if the float was badly out of adjustment, this contingency would be probable. When the carburetor is examined, if the gasoline level appears to be at the proper height, one may suspect that a particle of lint, or dust, or fine scale, or rust from the gasoline tank has clogged the bore of the jet in the mixing chamber.

Fig. 162

Fig. 162.—Front and Side Elevations of Sturtevant Airplane Engine, Giving Principal Dimensions to Facilitate Installation.

If the ignition system and carburetor appear to be in good working order, and the hand crank shows that there is no compression in one or more of the cylinders, it means some defect in the valve system. If the engine is a multiple-cylinder type and one finds poor compression in all of the cylinders it may be due to the rare defect of improper valve timing. This may be caused by a gear having altered its position on the cam-shaft or crank-shaft, because of a sheared key or pin having permitted the gear to turn about half of a revolution and then having caught and held the gear in place by a broken or jagged end so that cam-shaft would turn, but the valves open at the wrong time. If but one of the cylinders is at fault and the rest appear to have good compression the trouble may be due to a defective condition either inside or outside of that cylinder. The external parts may be inspected easily, so the following should be looked for: a broken valve, a warped valve-head, broken valve-springs, sticking or bent valve-stems, dirt under valve-seat, leak at valve-chamber cap or spark-plug gasket. Defective priming cock, cracked cylinder head (rarely occurs), leak through cracked spark-plug insulation, valve-plunger stuck in the guide, lack of clearance between valve-stem end and top of plunger caused by loose adjusting screw which has worked up and kept the valve from seating. The faulty compression may be due to defects inside the motor. The piston-head may be cracked (rarely occurs), piston rings may be broken, the slots in the piston rings may be in line, the rings may have lost their elasticity or have become gummed in the grooves of the piston, or the piston and cylinder walls may be badly scored by a loose wrist pin or by defective lubrication. If the motor is a type with a separate head it is possible the gasket or packing between the cylinder and combustion chamber may leak, either admitting water to the cylinder or allowing compression to escape.

CONDITIONS THAT CAUSE FAILURE OF IGNITION SYSTEM

If the first test of the motor had showed that the compression was as it should be and that there were no serious mechanical defects and there was plenty of gasoline at the carburetor, this would have demonstrated that the ignition system was not functioning properly. If a battery is employed to supply current the first step is to take the spark-plugs out of the cylinders and test the system by turning over the engine by hand. If there is no spark in any of the plugs, this may be considered a positive indication that there is a broken main current lead from the battery, a defective ground connection, a loose battery terminal, or a broken connector. If none of these conditions are present, it is safe to say that the battery is no longer capable of delivering current. While magneto ignition is generally used on airplane engines, there is apt to be some development of battery ignition, especially on engines equipped with electric self-starters which are now being experimented with. The spark-plugs may be short circuited by cracked insulation or carbon and oil deposits around the electrode. The secondary wires may be broken or have defective insulation which permits the current to ground to some metal part of the fuselage or motor. The electrodes of the spark-plug may be too far apart to permit a spark to overcome the resistance of the compressed gas, even if a spark jumps the air space, when the plug is laid on the cylinder.

If magnetos are fitted as is usually the case at present and a spark is obtained between the points of the plug and that device or the wire leading to it from the magneto is in proper condition, the trouble is probably caused by the magneto being out of time. This may result if the driving gear is loose on the armature-shaft or crank-shaft, and is a rare occurrence. If no spark is produced at the plugs the secondary wire may be broken, the ground wire may make contact with some metallic portion of the chassis before it reaches the switch, the carbon collecting brushes may be broken or not making contact, the contact points of the make-and-break device may be out of adjustment, the wiring may be attached to wrong terminals, the distributor filled with metallic particles, carbon, dust or oil accumulations, the distributor contacts may not be making proper connection because of wear and there may be a more serious derangement, such as a burned out secondary winding or a punctured condenser.

If the motor runs intermittently, i.e., starts and runs only a few revolutions, aside from the conditions previously outlined, defective operation may be due to seizing between parts because of insufficient oil or deficient cooling, too much oil in the crank-case which fouls the cylinder after the crank-shaft has revolved a few turns, and derangements in the ignition or carburetion systems that may be easily remedied. There are a number of defective conditions which may exist in the ignition group, that will result in “skipping” or irregular operation and the following points should be considered first: weak source of current due to worn out dry cells or discharged storage batteries; weak magnets in magneto, or defective contacts at magneto; dirt in magneto distributor or poor contact at collecting brushes. Dirty or cracked insulator at spark-plug will cause short circuit and can only be detected by careful examination. The following points should also be checked over when the plug is inspected: Excessive space between electrodes, points too close together, loose central electrodes, or loose point on plug body, soot or oil particles between electrodes, or on the surface of the insulator, cracked insulator, oil or water on outside of insulator. Short circuits in the condenser or internal wiring of induction coils or magnetos, which are fortunately not common, can seldom be remedied except at the factory where these devices were made. If an engine stops suddenly and the defect is in the ignition system the trouble is usually never more serious than a broken or loose wire. This may be easily located by inspecting the wiring at the terminals. Irregular operation or misfiring is harder to locate because the trouble can only be found after the many possible defective conditions have been checked over, one by one.

COMMON DEFECTS IN FUEL SYSTEMS

Defective carburetion often causes misfiring or irregular operation. The common derangement of the components of the fuel system that are common enough to warrant suspicion and the best methods for their location follows: First, disconnect the feed pipe from the carburetor and see if the gasoline flows freely from the tank. If the stream coming out of the pipe is not the full size of the orifice it is an indication that the pipe is clogged with dirt or that there is an accumulation of rust, scale, or lint in the strainer screens of the filter. It is also possible that the fuel shut-off valve may be wholly or partly closed. If the gasoline flows by gravity the liquid may be air bound in the tank, while if a pressure-feed system is utilized the tank may leak so that it does not retain pressure; the check valve retaining the pressure may be defective or the pipe conveying the air or gas under pressure to the tank may be clogged.If the gasoline flows from the pipe in a steady stream the carburetor demands examination. There may be dirt or water in the float chamber, which will constrict the passage between the float chamber and the spray nozzle, or a particle of foreign matter may have entered the nozzle and stopped up the fine holes therein. The float may bind on its guide, the needle valve regulating the gasoline-inlet opening in bowl may stick to its seat. Any of the conditions mentioned would cut down the gasoline supply and the engine would not receive sufficient quantities of gas. The air-valve spring may be weak or the air valve broken. The gasoline-adjusting needle may be loose and jar out of adjustment, or the air-valve spring-adjusting nuts may be such a poor fit on the stem that adjustments will not be retained. These instructions apply only to carburetors having air valves and mixture regulating means which are used only in rare instances in airplane work. Air may leak in through the manifold, due to a porous casting, or leaky joints in a built up form and dilute the mixture. The air-intake dust screen may be so clogged with dirt and lint that not enough air will pass through the mesh. Water or sediment in the gasoline will cause misfiring because the fuel feed varies when the water or dirt constricts the standpipe bore.

It is possible that the carburetor may be out of adjustment. If clouds of black smoke are emitted at the exhaust pipe it is positive indication that too much gasoline is being supplied the mixture and the supply should be cut down by screwing in the needle valve on types where this method of regulation is provided, and by making sure that the fuel level is at the proper height, or that the proper nozzle is used in those forms where the spray nozzle has no means of adjustment. If the mixture contains too much air there will be a pronounced popping back in the carburetor. This may be overcome by screwing in the air-valve adjustment so the spring tension is increased or by slightly opening up the gasoline-supply regulation needle. When a carburetor is properly adjusted and the mixture delivered the cylinder burns properly, the exhaust gas will be clean and free from the objectionable odor present when gasoline is burned in excess.

The character of combustion may be judged by the color of the flame which issues from it when the engine is running with an open throttle after nightfall. If the flame is red, it indicates too much gasoline. If yellowish, it shows an excess of air, while a properly proportioned mixture will be evidenced by a pronounced blue flame, such as given by a gas-stove burner.

The Duplex Model O. D. Zenith carburetor used upon most of the six- and eight-cylinder airplane engines consists of a single float chamber, and a single air intake, joined to two separate and distinct spray nozzles, venturi and idling adjustments. It is to be noted that as the carburetor barrels are arranged side by side, both valves are mounted on the same shaft, and work in unison through a single operating lever. It is not necessary to alter their position. In order to make the engine idle well, it is essential that the ignition, especially the spark-plugs, should be in good condition. The gaskets between carburetor and manifold, and between manifold and cylinders should be absolutely air-tight. The adjustment for low speed on the carburetor is made by turning in or out the two knurled screws, placed one on each side of the float chamber. After starting the engine and allowing it to become thoroughly warmed, one side of the carburetor should be adjusted so that the three cylinders it affects fire properly at low speed. The other side should be adjusted in the same manner until all six cylinders fire perfectly at low speed. As the adjustment is changed on the knurled screw a difference in the idling of the engine should be noticed. If the engine begins to run evenly or speeds up it shows that the mixture becomes right in its proportion.

Be sure the butterfly throttle is closed as far as possible by screwing out the stop screw which regulates the closed position for idling. Care should be taken to have the butterfly held firmly against this stop screw at all times while idling engine. If three cylinders seem to run irregularly after changing the position of the butterfly, still another adjustment may have to be made with the knurled screw. Unscrewing this makes the mixture leaner. Screwing in closes off some of the air supply to the idling jet, making it richer. After one side has been made to idle satisfactorily repeat the same procedure with the opposite three cylinders. In other words, each side should be idled independently to about the same speed.

Remember that the main jet and compensating jet have no appreciable effect on the idling of the engine. The idling mixture is drawn directly through the opening determined by the knurled screw and enters the carburetor barrel through the small hole at the edge of each butterfly. This is called the priming hole and is only effective during idling. Beyond that point the suction is transferred to the main jet and compensator, which controls the power of the engine beyond the idling position of the throttle.

DEFECTS IN OILING SYSTEMS

While troubles existing in the ignition or carburetion groups are usually denoted by imperfect operation of the motor, such as lost power, and misfiring, derangements of the lubrication or cooling systems are usually evident by overheating, diminution in engine capacity, or noisy operation. Overheating may be caused by poor carburetion as much as by deficient cooling or insufficient oiling. When the oiling group is not functioning as it should the friction between the motor parts produces heat. If the cooling system is in proper condition, as will be evidenced by the condition of the water in the radiator, and the carburetion group appears to be in good condition, the overheating is probably caused by some defect in the oiling system.

The conditions that most commonly result in poor lubrication are: Insufficient oil in the engine crank-case or sump, broken or clogged oil pipes, screen at filter filled with lint or dirt, broken oil pump, or defective oil-pump drive. The supply of oil may be reduced by a defective inlet or discharge-check valve at the mechanical oiler or worn pumps. A clogged oil passage or pipe leading to an important bearing point will cause trouble because the oil cannot get between the working surfaces. It is well to remember that much of the trouble caused by defective oiling may be prevented by using only the best grades of lubricant, and even if all parts of the oil system are working properly, oils of poor quality will cause friction and overheating.

DEFECTS IN COOLING SYSTEMS OUTLINED

Cooling systems are very simple and are not liable to give trouble as a rule if the radiator is kept full of clean water and the circulation is not impeded. When overheating is due to defective cooling the most common troubles are those that impede water circulation. If the radiator is clogged or the piping of water jackets filled with rust or sediment the speed of water circulation will be slow, which will also be the case if the water pump or its driving means fail. Any scale or sediment in the water jackets or in the piping or radiator passages will reduce the heat conductivity of the metal exposed to the air, and the water will not be cooled as quickly as though the scale was not present.

The rubber hose often used in making the flexible connections demanded between the radiator and water manifolds of the engine may deteriorate inside and particles of rubber hang down that will reduce the area of the passage. The grease from the grease cups mounted on the pump-shaft bearing to lubricate that member often finds its way into the water system and rots the inner walls of the rubber hose, this resulting in strips of the partly decomposed rubber lining hanging down and restricting the passage. The cooling system is prone to overheat after antifreezing solutions of which calcium chloride forms a part have been used. This is due to the formation of crystals of salt in the radiator passages or water jackets, and these crystals can only be dissolved by suitable chemical means, or removed by scraping when the construction permits.

Overheating is often caused by some condition in the fuel system that produces too rich or too lean mixture. Excess gasoline may be supplied if any of the following conditions are present: Bore of spray nozzle or standpipe too large, auxiliary air-valve spring too tight, gasoline level too high, loose regulating valve, fuel-soaked cork float, punctured sheet-metal float, dirt under float control shut-off valve or insufficient air supply because of a clogged air screen. If pressure feed is utilized there may be too much pressure in the tank, or the float controlled mechanism operating the shut-off in the float bowl of the carburetor may not act quickly enough.

SOME CAUSES OF NOISY OPERATION

There are a number of power-plant derangements which give positive indication because of noisy operation. Any knocking or rattling sounds are usually produced by wear in connecting rods or main bearings of the engine, though sometimes a sharp metallic knock, which is very much the same as that produced by a loose bearing, is due to carbon deposits in the cylinder heads, or premature ignition due to advanced spark-time lever. Squeaking sounds invariably indicate dry bearings, and whenever such a sound is heard it should be immediately located and oil applied to the parts thus denoting their dry condition. Whistling or blowing sounds are produced by leaks, either in the engine itself or in the gas manifolds. A sharp whistle denotes the escape of gas under pressure and is usually caused by a defective packing or gasket that seals a portion of the combustion chamber or that is used for a joint as the exhaust manifold. A blowing sound indicates a leaky packing in crank-case. Grinding noises in the motor are usually caused by the timing gears and will obtain if these gears are dry or if they have become worn. Whenever a loud knocking sound is heard careful inspection should be made to locate the cause of the trouble. Much harm may be done in a few minutes if the engine is run with loose connecting rod or bearings that would be prevented by taking up the wear or looseness between the parts by some means of adjustment.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF HINTS FOR STARTING ENGINE

First make sure that all cylinders have compression. To ascertain this, open pet cocks of all cylinders except the one to be tested, crank over motor and see that a strong opposition to cranking is met with once in two revolutions. If motor has no pet cocks, crank and notice that oppositions are met at equal distances, two to every revolution of the starting crank in a four-cylinder motor. If compression is lacking, examine the parts of the cylinder or cylinders at fault in the following order, trying to start the motor whenever any one fault is found and remedied. See that the valve push rods or rocker arms do not touch valve stems for more than approximately 1/2 revolution in every 2 revolutions, and that there is not more than .010 to .020 inch clearance between them depending on the make of the motor. Make sure that the exhaust valve seats. To determine this examine the spring and see that it is connected to the valve stem properly. Take out valve and see that there is no obstruction, such as carbon, on its seat. See that valve works freely in its guide. Examine inlet valve in same manner. Listen for hissing sound while cranking motor for leaks at other places.

Make sure that a spark occurs in each cylinder as follows: If magneto or magneto and battery with non-vibrating coil is used: Disconnect wire from spark-plug, hold end about 1/8 inch from cylinder or terminal of spark-plug. Have motor cranked briskly and see if spark occurs. Examine adjustment of interrupter points. See that wires are placed correctly and not short circuited. Take out spark-plug and lay it on the cylinder, being careful that base of plug only touches the cylinder and that ignition wire is connected. Have motor cranked briskly and see if spark occurs. Check timing of magneto and see that all brushes are making contact.

See if there is gasoline in the carburetor. See that there is gasoline in the tank. Examine valve at tank. Prime carburetor and see that spray nozzle passage is clear. Be sure throttle is open. Prime cylinders by putting about a teaspoonful of gasoline in through pet cock or spark-plug opening. Adjust carburetor if necessary.

LOCATION OF ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY

The following tabulation has been prepared and originated by the writer to outline in a simple manner the various troubles and derangements that interfere with efficient internal-combustion engine action. The parts and their functions are practically the same in all gas or gasoline engines of the four-cycle type, and the general instructions given apply just as well to all hydro-carbon engines, even if the parts differ in form materially. The essential components are clearly indicated in the many part sectional drawings in this book so they may be easily recognized. The various defects that may materialize are tabulated in a manner that makes for ready reference, and the various defective conditions are found opposite the part affected, and under a heading that denotes the main trouble to which the others are contributing causes. The various symptoms denoting the individual troubles outlined are given to facilitate their recognition in a positive manner.

Brief note is also made of the remedies for the restoration of the defective part or condition. It is apparent that a table of this character is intended merely as a guide, and it is a compilation of practically all the known troubles that may materialize in gas-engine operation. While most of the defects outlined are common enough to warrant suspicion, they will never exist in an engine all at the same time, and it will be necessary to make a systematic search for such of those as exist.

To use the list advantageously, it is necessary to know one main trouble easily recognized. For example, if the power plant is noisy, look for the possible troubles under the head of Noisy Operation; if it lacks capacity, the derangement will undoubtedly be found under the head of Lost Power. It is assumed in all cases that the trouble exists in the power plant or its components, and not in the auxiliary members of the ignition, carburetion, lubrication, or cooling systems. The novice and student will readily recognize the parts of the average aviation engine by referring to the very complete and clearly lettered illustrations of mechanism given in many parts of this treatise.

LOST POWER AND OVERHEATING
PART AFFECTED NATURE OF TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND EFFECTS REMEDY
Water Pipe Joint. Loose. Loss of water, heating. Tighten bolts, replace gaskets.
Spark Plug. Leakage in threads, insulation, or packing. Loss of power. Hissing caused by escaping gas. Replace insulation if defective, screw down tighter.
Compression Release Cock. Leak in threads. Leak in fitting. Loss of power. Whistling or hissing. Tighten if loose. Grind fitting to new seating in body.
Combustion Chamber. Crack or blowhole. Roughness. Carbon deposits. Sharp edges. Loss of compression. Preignition. Fill by welding. Smooth out roughness. Scrape out or dissolve carbon.
Valve Chamber Cap. Leak in threads. Defective gasket. Loss of compression. Hissing. Remove. Apply pipe compound to threads and replace. Use new gasket or packing.
Valve Head. Warped. Scored or pitted. Carbonized. Covered with scale. Loose on stem (two-piece valves only). Loss of compression. True up in lathe. Grind to seat. Scrape off. Smooth with emery cloth. Tighten by riveting.
Valve Seat. Warped or pitted. Covered with carbon. Foreign matter between valve and seat. Loss of compression. Use reseating reamer. Clean off and grind valve to seat.
Valve Stem. Covered with scale. Bent. Binding in guide. Stuck in guide. Valve does not close. Loss of compression. Clean with emery cloth; straighten. True up and smooth off. free with kerosene.
Valve Stem Guide. Burnt or rough. Loose in valve chamber. Valve may stick. Action irregular. Clean out hole. Screw in tighter.
Valve Spring. Weak or broken. Valve does not close.
Valve Operating Plunger. Loose in guide. Too much clearance between valve stem. Valve action poor. Lift insufficient. Replace with new. Adjust screw closer.
Valve Lift Adjusting Screw. Threads stripped. Too near valve. Too far from valve. Poor valve action. Replace with new. Adjust with proper reference to valve stem.
Valve Lift Cam. Worn cam contour. Loose on shaft. Out of time. Not enough valve lift. Will not lift valve. Valve opens at wrong time. Replace with new. Replace pins or keys. Set to open properly.
Cam-shaft. Sprung or twisted. Valves out of time. Straighten.
Cam-shaft Bushing. Worn. Not enough valve lift. Replace.
Cam-shaft Drive Gear. Loose on shaft. Out of time. Worn or broken teeth. Irregular valve action. Fasten securely. Time properly. Replace with new.
Cam Fastenings. Worn or broken. Valves out of time. Replace with new.
Cylinder Wall. Scored, gas leaks. Poor lubrication causes friction. Poor compression. Overheating. Grind out bore. Repair oiling system.
Piston. Binds in cylinder. Walls scored. Worn out of round. Overheating. Poor compression. Lap off excess metal. Replace with new.
Piston Rings. Loss of spring. Loose in grooves. Scored. Worn or broken. Slots in line. Loss of compression. Gas blows by. Peen ring or replace. Fit new rings. Grind smooth. Replace. Turn slots apart.
Carbon in grooves. Insufficient opening. Binding on cylinder. Overheating because of friction. Remove deposits. File slot. Grind or lap to fit cylinder bore.
Wristpin. Loose, scores cylinder. Loss of compression. Fasten securely. Replace cylinder if groove is deep.
Crank-shaft. Scored or rough on journals. Sprung. Overheating because of friction. Smooth up. Straighten.
Crank Bearings. Main Bearings. Adjusted too tight. Defective oiling. Brasses burned. Overheating because of friction. Adjust freely, clean out oil holes and enlarge oil grooves.
Oil Sump. Insufficient oil. Poor lubricant. Dirty oil. Overheating. Replenish supply. Use best oil. Wash out with kerosene; put in clean oil.
Water Space. Water Pipes. Clogged with sediment or scale. Overheating. Dissolve foreign matter and remove.
Piston Head. Cracked (rare). Carbon deposits. Loss of compression. Preignition. Weld by autogenous process. Scrape off carbon accumulations.
NOISY OPERATION OF POWER PLANT
PART AFFECTED NATURE OF TROUBLE CHARACTER OF NOISE REMEDY
Compression Release Cock. Leakage. Hissing. Previously given.
Spark Plug. Leakage. Hissing. Previously given.
Valve Chamber Cap. Leakage. Hiss or whistle. Previously given.
Combustion Chamber. Carbon deposits. Knocking. Previously given.
Inlet Valve Seat. Defects previously given. Popping in carburetor. Previously given.
Valve Head. Loose on stem. Clicking. Previously given.
Valve Stem. Valve Stem Guide. Wear or looseness. Rattle or clicking. Previously given.
Inlet Valve. Closes too late. Opens too early. Blowback in carburetor. Previously given.
Valve Spring. Weak or broken. Blowback in carburetor. Previously given.
Cylinder Casting. Retaining bolts loose. Piston strikes at upper end. Sharp metallic knock. Tighten bolts. Round edges of piston top.
Cylinder Wall. Scored. Hissing. Previously given.
Valve Stem Clearance. Too much. Too little (inlet valve). Clicking. Blowback in carburetor. Previously given.
Valve Operating Plunger. Plunger Guide. Looseness. Rattle or clicking. Previously given.
Timing Gears. Loose on fastenings. Worn teeth. Meshed too deeply. Metallic knock. Rattle. Grinding. Previously given.
Cylinder or Piston. No oil, or poor lubricant. Grinding. Repair oil system.
Cam. Loose on shaft. Worn contour. Metallic knock. Previously given.
Cam-shaft Bearing. Looseness or wear. Slight knock. Previously given.
Cam Fastening. Looseness. Clicking. Previously given.
Piston. Binding in cylinder. Worn oval, causes side slap in cylinder. Grinding or dull squeak. Dull hammering. Previously given.
Piston Head. Carbon deposits. Knocking. Previously given.
Piston Rings. Defective oiling. Leakage. Binding in cylinder. Squeaking. Hissing. Grinding. Previously given.
Wrist-pin. Loose in piston. Worn. Dull metallic knock. Replace with new member.
Connecting Rod. Wear in upper bushing. Wear at crank-pin. Side play in piston. Distinct knock. Adjust or replace. Scrape and fit. Use longer wrist-pin bushing.
Crank Bearings. Looseness. Excessive end play. Binding, fitted too tight. Metallic knock. Intermittent knock. Squeaking. Refit bearings. Longer bushings needed. Insert shims to allow more play.
Main Bearings. Looseness. Defective lubrication. Metallic knock. Squeaking. Fit brasses closer to shaft. Clean out oil holes and grooves.
Connecting Rod Bolts. Main Bearing Bolts. Loose. Sharp knock. Tighten.
Crank-shaft. Defective oiling. Squeaking. Previously given.
Engine Base. Loose on frame. Sharp pounding. Tighten bolts.
Lower Half Crank-case. Bolts loose. Knocking. Tighten bolts.
Fly-wheel. Loose on crank-shaft. Very sharp knock. Tighten retention bolts or fit new keys.
Oil Sump. Oil level too low. Poor lubricant. Grinding and squeak in all bearings. Replenish with best cylinder oil.
Valve Plunger Retention Stirrups. Looseness. Clicking. Tighten nuts.
Fan. Blade loose. Blade strikes cooler. Clicking or rattle. Tighten. Bend back.
Exhaust Pipe Joints. Leakage. Sharp hissing. Tighten or use new gasket.
Crank-case Packing. Leakage. Blowing sound. Use new packing. Tighten bolts.
Water Pipe. Leaks. Loss of water. Clogged with sediment. Pounding because engine heats. Previously given.
Water Jacket. Clogged with sediment. Walls covered with scale. Knocking because engine heats. Dissolve scale and flush out water space with water under pressure.
“SKIPPING” OR IRREGULAR OPERATION
PART AFFECTED NATURE OF TROUBLE SYMPTOMS AND EFFECTS REMEDY
Compression Relief Cock. Leak in threads or spigot. Dilutes mixture with air, causes blowback. Screw down tighter. Grind spigot to seat with emery.
Spark-Plug. Leak in threads. Defective gasket. Cracked insulator. Points too near. Points covered with carbon. Too much air gap. Dilutes mixture. Allows short circuit. No spark. Screw down tighter. Replace with new. Set points 1/64'' apart for magneto, 1/32'' for battery spark.
Valve Chamber Cap. Leak in threads. Defective gasket. Dilutes mixture by allowing air to enter cylinder on suction stroke. Previously given.
Combustion Chamber. Carbon deposits. Preignition. Scrape out.
Valve Head. Warped or pitted. Loose on stem. Dilutes charge with poor air or gas. Previously given.
Valve Stem. Binding in guide. Sticking. Irregular valve action. Previously given.
Valve Seat. Scored or warped. Cracked. Covered with scale. Dirt under valve. Gas leak, poor mixture. Poor compression. Valve will not close. Previously given.
Induction Pipe. Leak at joints. Crack or blowhole. Mixture diluted with excess air. Stop all leaks.
Inlet Valve. Closes too late. Opens too early. Blowback in carburetor. Time properly.
Exhaust Valve. Opens too late. Closes too early. Retention of burnt gas dilutes charge. Time properly.
Valve Stem Guide. Bent or carbonized. Causes valve to stick. Previously given.
Inlet Valve Stem Guide. Worn, stem loose. Air drawn in on suction thins gas. Bush guide or use new member.
Valve Spring. Weakened or broken. Irregular action. Use new spring.
Valve Stem Clearance. Too little. Too much. Valve will not shut. Valve opens late, closes early. Adjust gap .009'' inlet, .010'' exhaust.
Valve Spring Collar Key. Broken. Releases spring. Replace.
Cam. Worn cam contour. Loose on shaft. Out of time. Valve lift reduced. Does not lift valve. Valves operate at wrong time. Previously given.
Cam-shaft Bearing. Looseness or wear. Valve timing altered. Valve lift decreased. Replace.
Cam-shaft. Twisted. Valves out of time. Previously given.
Cam Fastening. Worn or broken. Valve action irregular. Replace with new.
Valve Operating Plunger. Loose in guide. Alters valve timing. Replace with new.
Valve Plunger Guide. Wear in bore. Loose on engine base. Alters valve timing. Replace or bush. Fasten securely.
Timing Gears. Not properly meshed. Loose on shaft. Valves out of time. Valves do not operate. Retime properly. Fasten to shaft.
Piston. Walls scored. Leakage of gas. Smooth up if possible.
Piston Head. Carbon deposits. Crack or blowhole (rare). Cause premature ignition. Previously given.
Piston Rings. No spring. Loose in grooves. Worn or broken. Leakage weakens suction. Previously given.
Cylinder Wall. Scored by wristpin. Scored by lack of oil. Gas leaks by. Poor suction. Previously given.

Ignition System Troubles Only

Motor Will Not Start or Starts Hard

Loose Battery Terminal.
Magneto Ground Wire Shorted.
Magneto Defective (No Spark at Plugs).
Broken Spark Plug Insulation.
Carbon Deposits or Oil Between Plug Points.
Spark-Plug Points Too Near Together or Far Apart.
Wrong Cables to Plugs.
Short Circuited Secondary Cable.
Broken Secondary Cable.

Dry Battery Weak. ? Battery Systems
Only.
Storage Battery Discharged. ?
Poor Contact at Timer. ?
Timer Points Dirty. ?
Poor Contact at Switch. ? Battery and Coil
Ignition System Only.
Primary Wires Broken, or Short Circuited. ?
Battery Grounded in Metal Container. ?
Battery Connectors Broken or Loose. ?
Timer Points Out of Adjustment. ?
Defects in Induction Coil. ?

Ignition Timing Wrong, Spark Too Late or Too Early.
Defective Platinum Points in Breaker Box (Magneto).
Points Not Separating.
Broken Contact Maker Spring.
No Contact at Secondary Collector Brush.
Platinum Contact Points Burnt or Pitted.
Contact Breaker Bell Crank Stuck.
Fiber Bushing in Bell Crank Swollen.
Short Circuiting Spring Always in Contact.
Dirt or Water in Magneto Casing.
Oil in Contact Breaker.
Oil Soaked Brush and Collector Ring.
Distributor Filled with Carbon Particles.

Motor Stops Without Warning

Broken Magneto Carbon Brush.
Broken Lead Wire.
Broken Ground Wire.
Battery Ignition Systems.
Water on High Tension Magneto Terminal.
Main Secondary Cable Burnt Through by Hot Exhaust Pipe (Transformer Coil, Magneto Systems).
Particle of Carbon Between Spark Plug Points.
Magneto Short Circuited by Ground Wire.
Magneto Out of Time, Due to Slipping Drive.
Water or Oil in Safety Spark Gap (Multi-cylinder Magneto).
Magneto Contact Breaker or Timer Stuck in Retard Position.
Worn Fiber Block in Magneto Contact Breaker.
Binding Fiber Bushing in Contact Breaker Bell Crank.
Spark Advance Rod or Wire Broken.
Contact Breaker Parts Stuck.

Motor Runs Irregularly or Misfires

Loose Wiring or Terminals.
Broken Spark-Plug Insulator.
Spark-Plug Points Sooted or Oily.
Wrong Spark Gap at Plug Points.
Leaking Secondary Cable.
Prematurely Grounded Primary Wire.
Batteries Running Down (Battery Ignition only).
Poor Adjustment of Contact Points at Timer.
Wire Broken Inside of Insulation.
Loose Platinum Points in Magneto.
Weak Contact Spring.
Broken Collector Brush.
Dirt in Magneto Distributor Casing or Contact Breaker.
Worn Fiber Block or Cam Plate in Magneto.
Worn Cam or Contact Roll in Timer (Battery System only).
Dirty Oil in Timer.
Sticking Coil Vibrators.
Coil Vibrator Points Pitted.
Oil Soaked Magneto Winding.
Punctured Magneto or Coil Winding.
Distributor Contact Segments Rough.
Sulphated Storage Battery Terminals.
Weak Magnets in Magneto.
Poor Contact at Magneto Contact Breaker Points.

DEFECTS IN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPONENTS

To further simplify the location of electrical system faults it is thought desirable to outline the defects that can be present in the various parts of the individual devices comprising the ignition system. If an airplane engine is provided with magneto ignition solely, as most engines are at the present time, no attention need be paid to such items as storage or dry batteries, timer or induction coil. There seems to be some development in the direction of battery ignition so it has been considered desirable to include components of these systems as well as the almost universally used magneto group. Spark-plugs, wiring and switches are needed with either system.

SPARK-PLUGS
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Insulation cracked. Plug inoperative. New insulation.
Insulation oil soaked. Cylinder misfires. Clean.
Carbon deposits. Short circuited spark. Remove.
Insulator loose. Cylinder misfires. Tighten.
Gasket broken. Gas leaks by. New gasket.
Electrode loose on shell. Cylinder misfires. Tighten.
Wire loose in insulator. Cylinder misfires. Tighten.
Air gap too close. Short circuits spark. Set correctly.
Air gap too wide. Spark will not jump. Set points 1/32'' apart.
Loose terminal. Cylinder may misfire. Tighten.
Plug loose in cylinder. Gas leaks. Tighten.
Mica insulation oil soaked. Short circuits spark. Replace.
MAGNETO
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Dirty oil in distributor. Engine misfires. Clean.
Metal dust in distributor. Engine misfires. Clean.
Brushes not making contact. Current cannot pass. Strengthen spring.
Distributor segments worn. Engine misfires. Secure even bearing.
Collecting brush broken. Engine misfires. New brush.
Distributing brush broken. Engine misfires. New brush.
Oil soaked winding. Engine misfires. Clean.
Magnets loose on pole pieces. Engine misfires. Tighten screws.
Armature rubs. Engine misfires. Repair bearings.
Bearings worn. Noisy. Replace.
Magnets weak. Weak spark. Recharge.
Contact breaker points pitted. Engine misfires. Clean.
Breaker points out of adjustment. Engine misfires. Reset.
Defective winding (rare). No spark. Replace.
Punctured condenser (rare). Weak or no spark. Replace.
Driving gear loose. Noise. Tighten.
Magneto armature out of time. Spark will not fire charge. Retime.
Magneto loose on base. Misfiring and noisy. Tighten.
Contact breaker cam worn. Misfiring. Replace.
Fibre shoe or rolls worn (Bosch). Misfiring. Replace.
Fibre bushing binding in contact lever (Bosch). Misfiring. Ream slightly.
Contact lever return spring broken. No spark. Replace.
Contact lever return spring weak. Misfiring. Replace.
Ground wire grounded. No spark. Insulate.
Ground wire broken. Engine will not stop. Connect up.
Safety spark gap dirty. No spark. Clean.
Fused metal in spark gap. No spark. Remove.
Safety spark gap points too close. Misfiring. Set properly.
Loose distributor terminals. Misfiring. Tighten.
Contact breaker sticks. No spark control. Remove and clean bearings.
Magneto switch short-circuited. No spark. Insulate.
Magneto switch open circuit. No engine stop. Restore contact.
STORAGE BATTERY
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Electrolyte low. Weak current. Replenish with distilled water.
Loose terminals. Misfiring. Tighten.
Sulphated terminals. Misfiring. Clean thoroughly and coat with vaseline.
Battery discharged. Misfiring or no spark. New charge.
Electrolyte weak. Weak current. Bring to proper specific gravity.
Plates sulphated. Poor capacity. Special slow charge.
Sediment or mud in bottom. Weak current. Clean out.
Active material loose in grids. Poor capacity. New plates.
Moisture or acid on top of cells. Shorts terminals. Remove.
Plugged vent cap. Buckles cell jars. Make vent hole.
Cracked vent cap. Acid spills out. New cap.
Cracked cell jar. Electrolyte runs out. New jar.
DRY CELL BATTERY
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Broken wires. No current. New wires.
Loose terminals. Misfiring. Tighten.
Weak cell (7 amperes or less). Misfiring. New cells.
Cells in contact. Short circuit. Separate and insulate.
Water in battery box. Short circuit. Dry out.
TIMER
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Contact segments worn or pitted. Misfiring. Grind down smooth.
Platinum points pitted. Misfiring. Smooth with oil stone.
Dirty oil or metal dust in interior. Misfiring. Clean out.
Worn bearing. Misfiring. Replace.
Loose terminals. Misfiring. Tighten.
Worn revolving contact brush. Misfiring. Replace.
Out of time. Irregular spark. Reset.
INDUCTION COIL
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Loose terminals. Misfiring. Tighten.
Broken connections. No spark. Make new joints.
Vibrators out of adjustment. Misfiring. Readjust.
Vibrator points pitted. Misfiring. Clean.
Defective condenser } rare. No spark. Send to maker for repairs.
Defective winding
Poor contact at switch. Misfiring. Tighten.
Broken internal wiring. No spark. Replace.
Poor coil unit. One cylinder affected. Replace.
WIRING
DEFECT TROUBLE CAUSED REMEDY
Loose terminals anywhere. Misfiring. Tighten.
Broken plug wire. One cylinder will not fire. Replace.
Broken timer wire. One coil will not buzz. Replace.
Broken main battery wire. } No spark. Replace.
Broken battery ground wire.
Broken magneto ground wire. Engine will not stop. Replace.
Chafed insulation anywhere. } Misfiring. Insulate.
Short circuit anywhere.

No Gasoline in Tank.
No Gasoline in Carburetor Float Chamber.
Tank Shut-Off Closed.
Clogged Filter Screen.
Fuel Supply Pipe Clogged.
Gasoline Level Too Low.
Gasoline Level Too High (Flooding).
Bent or Stuck Float Lever.
Loose or Defective Inlet Manifold.
Not Enough Gasoline at Jet.
Cylinders Flooded with Gas.
Fuel Soaked Cork Float (Causes Flooding).
Water in Carburetor Spray Nozzle.
Dirt in Float Chamber.
Gas Mixture Too Lean.
Carburetor Frozen (Winter Only).

Motor Stops In Flight

Gasoline Shut-Off Valve Jarred Closed.
Gasoline Supply Pipe Clogged.
No Gasoline in Tank.
Spray Nozzle Stopped Up.
Water in Spray Nozzle.
Particles of Carbon Between Spark-Plug Points.
Magneto Short Circuited by Ground in Wire.
Air Lock in Gasoline Pipe.
Broken Air Line or Leaky Tank (Pressure Feed System Only).
Fuel Supply Pipe Partially Clogged.
Air Vent in Tank Filler Cap Stopped Up (Gravity and Vacuum Feed System).
Float Needle Valve Stuck.
Water or Dirt in Spray Nozzle.
Mixture Adjusting Needle Jarred Loose (Rotary Motors Only).

Motor Races, Will Not Throttle Down

Air Leak in Inlet Piping.
Air Leak Through Inlet Valve Guides.
Control Rods Broken.
Defective Induction Pipe Joints.
Leaky Carburetor Flange Packing.
Throttle Not Closing.
Poor Slow Speed Adjustment (Zenith Carburetor).

Motor Misfires

Carburetor Float Chamber Getting Dry.
Water or Dirt in Gasoline.
Poor Gasoline Adjustment (Rotary Motors).
Not Enough Gasoline in Float Chamber.
Too Much Gasoline, Carburetor Flooding.
Incorrect Jet or Choke (Zenith Carburetor).
Broken Cylinder Head Packing Between Cylinders.

Noisy Operation

Popping or Blowing Back in Carburetor.
Incorrectly Timed Inlet Valves.
Inlet Valve Not Seating.
Defective Inlet Valve Spring.
Dirt Under Inlet Valve Seat.
Not Enough Gasoline (Open Needle Valve).
Muffler or Manifold Explosions.
Mixture Not Exploding Regularly.
Exhaust Valve Sticking.
Dirt Under Exhaust Valve Seat.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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