The scallop-shell is familiar to even the children who have visited the seashore, and the novice wonders why so small a tidbit should require so large a shell. The edible part of the scallop is only the powerful central muscle by which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. The medium-sized scallops are the best. The very large and very white variety are more than likely to have been inflated and bleached by the aid of saleratus.

Scallop-shells were extensively used in ancient cookery, and gave to various dishes the prefix “scalloped.”

Scallop Broth.—The peculiar flavor of scallops is quite attractive to the convalescent, and a broth made from them is nourishing; but care should be exercised in selecting the shell-fish. To improve their appearance, shippers add quantities of saleratus to the scallops, which has the effect of bleaching them, and increasing their size: this custom may please the dealers, but not consumers. Select medium-sized scallops of a natural creamy color, wash them, and cut them into small pieces. To half a pint of these, add half a pint of warm water and half a pint of milk, a “pea” of butter, and a pinch of salt; simmer for twenty minutes; strain and serve.

A pint of milk and no water may be used if the patient desires it.

Small Patties of Scallops.—Wash a pint of scallops, drain, cut them up, and scald them; then put them in just milk enough to prevent burning. Add salt and white pepper, simmer until quite tender, and thicken with half a teaspoonful of flour dissolved in cold water. Pour this mixture in small patty-shells (see recipe for oyster patties), and serve after the soup and before the fish, or as an entrÉe.

Fried Scallops.—Rinse a pint of scallops in cold water slightly salted, then dry them in a napkin, and dredge them slightly with flour. Fry them in pork-fat. Egg batter and crumbs are not recommended.

Scallops en Brochette.—Drain twenty-four medium-sized scallops in a napkin. Parboil them a moment. When cool arrange them on four skewers, six on each, alternated with thin slices of bacon the size of the scallops in width. Brush over the scallops a little melted butter, and broil. When done, serve with tufts of watercresses and lemon.

Stewed Scallops.—Scald fifteen scallops, and put them into a stewpan with half a pint of boiling milk, a dash of cayenne, and a saltspoonful of salt. Just before serving, add very little table butter.