Nursery-grown trees should be used for street planting, and they should have been transplanted at least every two years while in the nursery. This is to insure a thorough root pruning and the production of numerous fibrous roots close to the trunk. Trees not frequently transplanted form a few long roots that are largely cut off when the tree is dug. Trees growing in the woods form a few very long roots, and when an attempt is made to dig them only a little of the root next the trunk is obtained, while most of the roots, including the fibrous ones, are left in the ground. If woodland trees are wanted for street purposes, most kinds should be grown for a few years in a nursery in order to form a good root system before being planted on the streets.

In addition to a good root system, the tree should have a straight trunk for the variety, with a good set of branches, called the head, the bottom branches being from 7 to 9 feet from the ground. Trees which naturally head low should be started with a higher head than those varieties that have a tendency to an upright growth. A good head for a shade tree is a leader or upright branch with three or more side branches about equally spaced around the tree. The trees should be healthy, free from scars, and also free from evidences of insects or diseases. In the presence of insects, trees should be thoroughly fumigated along approved methods before leaving nurseries, to insure against the introduction and distribution of pests. Weakened vitality resulting from transplanting and subsequent neglect will frequently invite attack by bark-boring insects which seriously damage or kill the trees. Mulching and watering will often prevent this damage.

Opinion as to the size to plant differs somewhat, but for average conditions trees from 10 to 12 feet high and with trunks or stems from 2 to 2¹/₂ inches in diameter[86] are very satisfactory in most varieties used for street purposes. With such varieties as elms sycamores, and some southern oaks, somewhat larger trees can be used equally well, while smaller trees would be better in the regions of limited rainfall both east and west of the Rocky Mountains and for tulip trees and sweet gums, especially in the northern portion of their range of usefulness.

PREPARATION OF HOLES.

Next to the selection of a proper variety, the preparation of the hole is the most important detail of street tree planting. Because of the restricted area available for the spread of the tree roots, and owing to the artificial conditions imposed by the improvement of city streets, the soil provided for the feeding ground of the roots of the young tree must be liberal in quantity and of the best quality. From 2 to 3 cubic yards of soil should be provided for each tree. It is desirable to have at least 18 square feet of opening in the sidewalk, especially if it is of concrete or other impervious material. Trees will grow with smaller sidewalk openings, but they are not likely to thrive so well, and it is impossible properly to prepare a hole for planting a tree without disturbing at least this much surface soil. The proper depth of soil is from 2¹/₂ to 3 feet. A hole 3 feet deep large enough to hold 2 cubic yards of soil has a surface area of 18 square feet. A hole 6 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 3 feet deep will hold 2 cubic yards of soil, will have the smallest desirable surface area, and will be of such dimensions as will best conform to the usual sidewalk and roadway widths and thus not interfere with traffic.

The tree hole must be so drained that water will not stand in it. If the soil is so impervious as to hold water some artificial drainage must be provided. That portion of the depth of a hole that acts as a cistern for holding water is valueless as a feeding ground for roots. For every cubic foot of soil in the bottom of a hole that might thus be made valueless by standing water, 1¹/₂ cubic feet of soil should be added by increasing the length or width of it. Under no circumstances, however, should the depth of available feeding ground be less than 2 feet. The deeper the roots may be encouraged to grow, the less injury is likely to be experienced from drought.

The soil used should be topsoil from land that has been producing good crops. This should be well enriched with rotted manure, one part of manure to four of soil. The addition of such fertilizers as ground bone, tankage, fish scrap, or cottonseed meal at the rate of 1 pound to the cubic yard of soil is also helpful. Commercial fertilizers containing mostly phosphoric acid obtained from other substances than ground bone are not to be recommended for use in the soil about the roots at planting time. When used they should form a surface application, worked into the soil after planting.

PLANTING.

If trees are shipped from a distance they should be taken at once on arrival to some point where the roots may be carefully covered with soil; there they should be unpacked and plenty of loose moist earth worked thoroughly around and over the roots as fast as they are taken from the box. This temporary covering of the roots is called "heeling in." (fig. 29) The tops may be either erect or laid almost on the ground in successive rows, the tops of one row lying over the roots of the previous rows, the object being to cover the roots thoroughly and keep them moist until the tree is wanted for permanent setting. Not a moment of exposure should be permitted between the box and the soil. If the roots appear dry, they may be dipped for a few minutes before "heeling in" in a tub of water or in thin mud.

Trees in large quantities are often packed directly in cars with a small quantity of straw about the roots. When shipped in this way extra care (compare figs. 30 and 31) must be exercised in taking the trees to the point where they are to be heeled in. The wagon in which they are to be hauled should have a tight box, and wet canvas should be tied tightly over the load. The last is important, so that there may be no chance for the roots to dry.

When taking trees from the ground where they have been heeled in to the place for planting, great care must also be exercised to see that the roots are not exposed to sun or wind, but are kept closely covered with moss, wet burlap, or canvas until planted. Lack of care in this matter is a greater cause of loss in tree planting than carelessness in any other particular. One city that has its own nursery and uses largely trees that are supposed to be difficult to move, but is careful about not exposing the roots for a moment (fig. 31), has a loss of less than 1 per cent. If the roots once dry the trees will die, and it takes but a short exposure to dry the roots. The holes should be prepared well in advance of planting, so that no time will be lost when conditions are right for putting the trees in the ground.

In regions 1, 10, 11, 12, and 13 (fig. 17) the best time for planting deciduous street trees is the month or six weeks just preceding freezing weather in the fall. The other desirable time for planting is as soon after freezing weather is over in the spring as the ground is dry enough for the mechanical operations. This should be as early as possible, as the more opportunity there is for root growth before warm weather forces the top into growth, the better the results are likely to be. In regions 6, 8, and 9, where the ground freezes to a considerable depth, spring planting is to be preferred to fall planting unless it is possible to drench the soil thoroughly for a considerable distance around the trees at planting time and after that to mulch the soil thoroughly and also to protect the top from the effect of drying winter winds. Where mice abound they may be harbored in the mulch and may girdle the tree. This may be prevented by a collar of wire netting about the base of the trunk or by banking the earth about it. The death of trees at the time of transplanting is due to the drying out of either roots or tops before opportunity is given them to become reestablished in their new locations. This drying may be due to improper exposure at the time of digging or before packing (fig. 30), poor packing, prolonged delay in delivery, improper handling between unpacking and planting, or the existence of conditions conducive to excessive drying out of the plant after setting.

The atmosphere is continually claiming a tribute of moisture from all living plants, whether the plant is in leaf and growing or is dormant. Growing plants, and dormant plants under normal conditions, are able to replace this moisture by absorption through the roots. In climates where newly planted trees may obtain sufficient soil water to replace these losses by drying, fall planting is best. Where the plants are unable to get sufficient winter moisture, planting would better be done only in the spring. Where the soil freezes to a depth greater than that to which the plant roots extend, the supply of water is cut off from the roots and the tree will be killed by drying out through evaporation from the top. Where winter winds are very drying and the soil moisture is limited, evaporation from the top is likely to be in excess of that supplied by the roots and the tree is killed in the same way.

In regions normally adapted to fall planting, newly set trees may be killed by a dry autumn followed by a dry winter with, high winds or by a cold winter with so little snow that the ground freezes below the roots. On the other hand, trees may often be successfully planted in the fall where such practice is not usually successful by thoroughly mulching the soil if freezing is the sole cause of the difficulty, or by drenching the soil thoroughly and then mulching well if lack of moisture and high winds are the causes of the trouble. Protection from the wind by wrapping the trunk and large limbs with burlap or some other protecting material is also desirable.

After a liberal opening has been made in the specially prepared soil the tree should be brought, preferably from the city's own nursery (fig. 32), but if such a nursery has not been provided, then from among the newly received trees that have been "heeled in" as already described.

If the tree has been well handled and the roots carefully protected it is ready for setting. It is desirable to immerse the roots in a thin mixture of clay and water just before putting it in the hole if there is suspicion that the roots have been exposed. This can be done before leaving the nursery or "heeling in" ground, but the roots must be properly protected. Any mutilated ends of roots should be removed, the top should be severely pruned, as described later, and the tree should be placed in the hole in line with the other trees (fig. 33, A) and at such a height that after the filling is completed it will be about an inch deeper in the ground than it was before transplanting. The roots should be spread out in as near their original position as practicable, and soil should be carefully worked in about them with the fingers, so that each rootlet may come in contact with soil and not be crowded against other rootlets. When all the roots have been placed and covered the soil should be thoroughly trampled or tamped to bring the roots into as close contact as possible with it. Then more soil should be put in and the ground again tamped. Of course, in order to get satisfactory results the soil used for planting must not be too wet or too dry. If the soil is in such a state as to hold together in soggy masses and not spring apart again when squeezed in the hand, it is too wet for planting. If the soil is too dry, it will not stay in contact with the roots during the planting operations. A soil that is too dry may be well-watered a day or two in advance of the planting, or if excessive dryness does not make it difficult to handle, the tree may be planted and then be thoroughly watered. After the watering 3 or 4 inches of loose soil should be spread over the wet ground in order to prevent undue evaporation. It should not be trampled or pounded in any way after the water is applied. If trees planted in moist retentive soils are watered after planting they should be provided with a mulch of similar earth. East of the Missouri River trees planted in soil that is in good condition usually do not need watering at the time of planting.

Trees planted from pots, cans, or boxes should have the ball of earth taken from the receptacle handled with care, so as not to break it further than to loosen some of the roots on the outside of the ball; then the soil should be as carefully placed about this ball and the loosened roots as about the roots of trees without balls. Trees planted with balls need no root pruning and little top pruning.

PRUNING.

At planting time the trees should be so pruned as to remove from one-half to three-fourths of the leaf buds. The head should be formed in the nursery, so that at planting time the only problem is how to reduce the amount of prospective growth the first season without destroying the form of the head. Specific directions are difficult, because different species of trees are so different in their character of growth. A species that is naturally compact in growth (fig. 34) should be pruned by removing whole branches rather than by having the ends of branches removed. One that is open and spreading (fig. 35) will probably need the shortening of the longer limbs as well as the removal of interior branches. The first pruning should be the removal of such branches as can be spared. If enough buds can not be removed in this way without leaving the head too open, then the shortening of the branches must follow. It is usually necessary to remove three-fourths of the limbs to accomplish this. An expert can do this pruning or most of it more easily before the tree is planted than afterwards. Some additional pruning may be necessary after the tree is set.

In addition to the pruning of the top the roots may need some cutting. Any broken pieces or ends should be removed, making a clean cut with a sharp knife, as new rootlets put out more readily from a cleanly cut fresh surface than from ragged breaks. If the roots are very long, without branches or rootlets, it sometimes makes planting easier to cut off some of the ends. As roots are the braces by which a tree is supported in the ground, it is undesirable to reduce their length unless some positive good is to be gained by it.

The best implement for cutting small limbs is a sharp knife, and for larger limbs a fine-toothed saw. Pruning shears are sometimes used, but they are likely to bruise the wood. If used at all, the blade should always be turned toward the tree so that the bruise made by the supporting bar will be on the portion cut off. Where branches are taken off, the cut should be close to the remaining limb, so that no suggestion of a stub will remain. (Figs. 34 and 35.) Where ends are cut from branches the cut should be just above a bud, and the remaining bud should point in the direction that it is desired the limb should grow.

STAKES AND GUARDS.

Under city conditions young trees need the support of a strong stake as well as protection for the trunk. Boys like to swing around small trees or see the tops fly up if bent to the ground. Men find them convenient hitching posts for their horses, and horses frequently like the taste of the bark or tear it off for the sake of having something to do.

Guards are of many forms (fig. 36), from stakes 2¹/₂ inches square set 3 feet in the ground and extending 6 feet above, with heavy-netting placed about the tree and stapled to the stake, to heavy wooden cribs of four stakes and intermediate slats and wrought-iron patterns of many forms.

The trees should be firmly secured to the tops of the guards so that they will not swing against them in the wind and be rubbed. This is best done by securing the tree in place in the guard by two loops of pieces of old garden hose, soft leather, or rope, in such a way as not to bind the tree too tightly while keeping it from swinging much or rubbing. The essentials are a firm support for the tree while young with reasonable protection of the trunk from careless depredations until the tree has reached a diameter of 6 inches or more.

LATER CARE.

If after planting, the season is dry and it becomes necessary to apply water, the ground should be soaked thoroughly, and as soon as it has dried sufficiently to work up loosely it should be hoed or raked to make a good earth mulch. A mulch of strawy manure or litter may be used in place of the earth mulch if desired. The watering should not require repeating for a week or more.

If the weather becomes warm soon after planting and the trees come into leaf, wither, and droop, further pruning may save them. The reason for the difficulty is probably that the growth of the top has been greater than the newly formed roots can support; therefore the additional pruning is likely to restore the balance between the top growth and root growth. At least three-fourths of the remaining young wood should be removed. This may leave the tree looking almost like a bean pole, but if it induces a vigorous root growth the top can easily be re-formed.

Young trees should have an annual inspection, and all crossing branches and any that are not well placed to form a good head should be removed. Attention should be given also to all forks, and where two branches start almost parallel to one another or at a small angle, making a fork liable to split apart as the tree grows, one branch should be removed. Where three branches start from almost the same point there is little likelihood of their splitting apart, but with only two growing at a less angle than 30° there is liable to be trouble in the case of most kinds of trees. On trees on which few but long shoots form, it may be well to remove the ends of such shoots. As a rule, it is undesirable to use for street planting trees with this kind of growth. Young trees should be trained into a desirable shape by the use of a pruning knife each year, so that a saw will not be necessary later. Some trees have a tendency to form too dense a head. The interior branches of these should be removed and the head made as open as possible while the work can be done with a knife. No attempt should be made to alter the natural form of a tree but only to insure its best development. A skillfully pruned young tree will show no evidences of the pruning after three or four years.