KING LEARBlow, winds, and crack your cheeks! rage! blow! You cataracts, and hurricanoes, spout Till you have drench'd our steeples, drown'd the cocks! You sulphurous and thought-executing fires, Vaunt couriers to oak-cleaving thunder-bolts, Singe my white head! And thou, all shaking thunder, Strike flat the thick rotundity o' the world! Crack nature's moulds, all germes spill at once That make ingrateful man!
KING LEAR This old man torn to rags by a tempest of emotion, on the ultimate boundary of life, is obviously difficult to portray; tenderness and rage, madness and dignity, must all be shown. He is pent, baffled, and buffeted by things physical and mental for a while. Then there is the hurried decay of body and of brain. In Fig. 1 observe that the nose has been slightly built up. This is done to give added dignity to the face. For the great weight of beard and hair would tend to make the nose look smaller than it really is. After the nose has been built up the wig is put on that the position of the join may be indicated, also what parts of the natural hair must be treated with white paint. The groundwork is laid on: this should be of 2-1/2 yellow and a little brown. The shadows round the eyes are of groundwork mixed with blue. The wrinkles are of groundwork mixed with additional brown and lake. The temples should be shadowed with this colour. Find out where the wrinkles would come by pursing up the face. Use as many as possible to suggest extreme old age, being always mindful that the intentions of nature are not ignored. Be careful that the lines on the face are not drawn in too decisive a manner, as at a distance they seem much stronger than they really are. The modelling tool is most suitable for the drawing and the subsequent modification of the wrinkles. It may be also used for applying the more delicate high lights. Each wrinkle should be accentuated with a light just above it. Fig. 2 shows the make-up at a stage when it is ready for the addition of the moustache and beard. Observe the whitened hair just above the temples. This is done with white grease paint. Fig. 3 shows the beard in position. A tape goes over the head to partly support its weight, and it is secured with spirit gum. Note the blending of the left cheek and beard with crepe hair, also how half the chin is covered, observe how the character of the face is altered by the bushy eyebrow. Fig. 4 shows the make-up almost complete and ready for the wig to be put on. Put the wig on, carefully blending the join. Accentuate wrinkles and shadows here and there. Powder and treat the eyelashes with white paint. DON QUIXOTEFantastic to the point of madness, of romantic daring. Simple and kind; and above all a nobleman of great dignity. I have chosen this extreme make-up as a foil to the Falstaff. Falstaff is a creature of utter coarseness. Quixote as a singularly imaginative man is one of extraordinary sensitiveness. The chief effort was to make the face as long and as thin as possible. First compare the four progressive prints. See how much longer the head is in Fig. 4 than in Fig. 1. As the four photographs are taken to exactly the same scale it is possible to accurately measure with a draughtsman's compass the additions that have been made to the chin and forehead. It will be found that the head has been increased by one third. First the nose is built up with paste. By giving it a very pronounced hook it is decidedly lengthened and thus made to accord better with the new proportions of the face. The prominences of the forehead and cheek bones are next accentuated with nose-paste (Fig. 1). The wig is placed in position and the forehead made up with a ground work of 2-1/2, yellow, and 13, a flesh colour that should suggest parchment. The wig is then removed until the make-up is almost finished. This keeps it from becoming soiled. Covering the face with groundwork is the next step. A sunken appearance is given to the eyes by painting round them with brown. Shadows are worked into the cheeks. Lines are drawn from the inner corners of the eyes down on to the cheeks. Similar lines are indicated at either side of the nose. A broad perpendicular stripe from the nose to the top of the forehead, and the temples are darkened.
Yellowish high lights are placed on the forehead at either side of the central shadow and round the temples in such a way that their depth is accentuated. High lights on the cheek bones and above the various wrinkles make the face more vigorous. The false eyebrows, the moustache and beard are gummed in position. The beard is blended with loosely combed crepe hair which is afterward trimmed. The wig is again put on the shadows and high lights carried up with the false forehead. Yellowish powder is next dusted all over the face. Colour similar to the wig and beard is applied to the eyelashes. The lips are painted with a colour that should not be too dark. FALSTAFFIf I were sawed into quantities, I should make four dozen of such bearded hermit's staves as Master Shallow. It is a wonderful thing to see the semblable coherence of his men's spirits and his. They, by observing of him, do bear themselves like foolish justices; he, by conversing with them, is turned into a justice-like serving-man. Their spirits are so married in conjunction with the participation of society, that they flock together in consent, like so many wild geese. If I had a suit to Master Shallow, I would humour his men, with the imputation of being near their master; if to his men, I would curry with Master Shallow that no man could better command his servants. It is certain that either wise bearing or ignorant carriage is caught, as men take diseases, one of another; therefore, let men take heed of their company. I will devise matter enough out of this Shallow, to keep Prince Harry in continual laughter the wearing-out of six fashions, which is four terms, or two actions, and he shall laugh without intervallums. O, it is much, that a lie, with a slight oath, and a jest, with a sad brow, will do with a fellow that never had the ache in his shoulders! O, you shall see him laugh, till his face be like a wet cloak ill laid up.
FALSTAFF A volcano of carnality capped by a head that seems red hot with fleshly passions. Of all the examples in the book this is the most exaggerated. In exaggerating to a point of almost buffoonery it has been my wish to show to what extremes make-up could be carried—extremes that should usually be avoided. The chief intention was to give great additional breadth to the head and face, as opposed to the Don Quixote, in which case the head has been lengthened as much as possible. What this additional breadth amounts to may be realised by referring to Fig. 1 of the progressive prints. In Fig. 2 the wig is shown with the silk joined to it from which the cheeks and double chin are to be formed. With spirit gum the edges of the silk are joined round the eyes, mouth and nose. Next the cheeks and chin are padded, and the drawstring at the lower edge of the silk is tightened (see Fig. 3). A large nose of nose-paste is formed (Fig. 4). Pouches of nose paste are placed beneath the eyes and these are blended with the false cheeks, effectually covering the joins. A groundwork of No. 3 grease paint made deeper with yellow, carmine, and a little lake is applied evenly all over the face, or perhaps it would be better to call it a mask. This will bring its various elements into accord. Blotches of carmine mixed with a little yellow are dabbed on the nose and cheeks. High lights of white mixed with a little yellow are placed on the forehead, on the pouches under the eyes, and on the cheeks. Blend these with the groundwork carefully. The beard and moustache are so placed that the actual outlines of the cheeks are lost. The beard is blended into the cheeks with crepe hair. The eyelashes are coloured with reddish yellow making them seem smaller. SHYLOCKShylock. I am bid forth to supper, Jessica:
SHYLOCK A dignified figure really, but under the lash of persecution disclosing the evil qualities of revengefulness and craft. Strong, cruel, and resentful. The nose is built with nose-paste and carefully modelled after it is joined. In the progressive prints, Figs. 1 and 2, two views are given of it. The groundwork is of No. 3 yellow, a little lake, brown, and 13. Before this is applied to the face, the wig is put on; but after the spreading of the groundwork it is again removed, that it may not be soiled during the subsequent stages of the make-up. The colour for the shadows and wrinkles is formed of the groundwork with brown and lake added. The cavities of the eyes should be strengthened with this. Deep grooves are painted from the corners of the nose, a sunken appearance given to the temples, and crows' feet drawn from the eyes. The high lights come above the wrinkles; and are placed on the most prominent parts of the forehead. The beard, which is of a mixture of black, deep red, and grey hair, is next gummed into position, taking care that no grease paint is on any part of the face to which the gum is to be applied. (See Fig. 3.) In Fig. 4 the blending of the beard with the cheek is shown, also the placing of half the moustache and a false eyebrow. Observe the small piece of crepe hair that is placed just under the lower lip. The wig is again put on and carefully blended with the forehead. A rather deep reddish powder is suitable for the make-up. The lips are coloured with carmine and lake mixed. HAMLETA mirror of emotions. The mouthpiece of protesting souls. A creature of sensitiveness absolute. His face must express almost the entire range of the passions. Very pale, studious, of great mental strength and refinement. Groundwork 2-1/2, a little yellow and a very small quantity of brown. Flesh colour that should vaguely suggest ivory. A little white rubbed on to the most prominent parts of the forehead adds intellectuality to the head. The shadows which should be of the groundwork deepened with brown are so arranged that they intensify the sensitiveness of the face. They are used under the brows to give soulfulness to the eyes and to make the forehead seem more prominent. A line is drawn round the upper part of the nostrils to give delicacy to the drawing of the nose. The darkening of the division of the upper lip and of the cleft chin makes the face seem thinner. The shadows on the temples and on the cheeks also help this illusion. Cream-coloured powder is applied to the face and neck. The eyebrows are carefully drawn with brown in a wide clear arch and are afterward lightly combed. The eyelashes are strengthened by drawing a black line along the edges and this line is carried a little way out at the outer corner of the eyes. A tiny spot of carmine at the inner corner by the tear-bag lends lustre to the eye. The lips nobly drawn in carmine give passion to the mouth. The hair is of crisp clean curls which suggests vigour and alertness. Hamlet when impersonated by fair men has usually been played in a fair make-up, and this example is worth following. The subtle natural peculiarities of a fair face make a dark make-up unsuitable to it and vice versÂ. For a fair make-up the same advice should be followed, leaving all the brown and nearly all the yellow out of the groundwork, and finishing with rouge. The make-up should be much brighter and the wig of flaxen. HAMLET The time is out of joint; O cursed spite, That ever I was born to set it right! HAMLET (Second Print) Polonius. * * *. What do you read, my lord? Hamlet. Words, words, words! Polonius. What is the matter, my lord? Hamlet. Between who? Polonius. I mean, the matter that you read, my lord. Hamlet. Slanders sir; for the satirical rogue says here that old men have grey beards; that their faces are wrinkled; their eyes purging thick amber, and plum-tree gum; and that they have a plentiful lack of wit, together with most weak hams: all of which, sir, though I most powerfully and potently believe, yet I hold it not honesty to have it thus set down; for yourself, sir, shall be as old as I am, if, like a crab, you could go backward. IAGOThe personification of cunningness, craft and deceit. A brilliant mind and an utterly corrupted spirit. One that enjoys to contemplate and to study mental suffering. Pale skin, dark brown hair, and a reddish beard. Observe the building of the nose. Its bridge runs in an uninterrupted line up to the forehead. Note the deep shadow of the temples and the manner of colouring the cheeks. The drooping moustache gives the face a singularly sinister expression. The beard is of crepe hair and is so arranged that it gives the skin a goatlike appearance. See instruction for the making of beards. OTHELLOOf great natural dignity, simple and loyal. Driven to irresistibly follow an impulse when it has once seized his mind. Tortured to distraction by Iago. All the primitive savagery of his race is manifested. The nose is first depressed by crossing it near the tip with a silk thread which is tied at the back of the head. A small piece of kid is placed under the thread, thus keeping from coming into contact with the skin. The nostrils are built out until the nose has a Moorish appearance. The face is first covered with 2-1/2 and subsequently with a mixture of Nos. 10 and 13. The colouring is made much stronger round the eyes. High lights are faintly suggested on the forehead and on the cheek bones. The beard, which had better be of crepe hair, should be so applied that the flesh shows through. Reddish brown powder is used, and the make-up is finished by painting strong black lines on the edges of the eyelids. The eyebrows are also of black. The lips are No. 13 with a little carmine added. Ear-rings and a turban help the make-up. OTHELLO AND IAGO Iago. I will in Cassio's lodging lose this napkin, Enter Othello. Look, where he comes! Not poppy, nor mandragora, [Taking him by the throat. Or, by the worth of mine eternal soul, BOTTOM THE WEAVERA bucolic egoist, vain, dense, and narrow. The groundwork for this is No. 3 with a little 13 added. White is rubbed into the cheeks in the shape of high lights to broaden the appearance of the face. A triangular shadow painted on the under part of the nose makes this feature seem to tilt upward. The eyebrows are almost entirely obliterated with thick grease paint, as also are the eyelashes. The small perpendicular lines at the ends of the eyes seem to reduce their size. The corners of the mouth are extended with paint, and the tight-fitting wig drawn well over the forehead seems, while it diminishes the size of the head, to make the face appear larger. Much of the stupidity of countenance is due to expression. BOTTOM THE WEAVER Bottom awakes. When my cue comes, call me, and I will answer: my next is, "Most fair Pyramus." Hey, ho! Peter Quince! Flute, the bellows-mender! Snout, the tinker! Starveling! God's, my life! stolen hence, and left me asleep. I have had a most rare vision. I have had a dream,—past the wit of man to say what dream it was. Man is but an ass, if he go about to expound this dream. Methought I was,—there is no man can tell what. Methought I was, and methought I had,—but man is but a patched fool if he will offer to say what methought I had. The eye of man hath not heard, the ear of man hath not seen, man's hand is not able to taste, his tongue to conceive, nor his heart to report, what my dream was. I will get Peter Quince to write a ballad of this dream; it shall be called Bottom's Dream, because it hath no bottom; and I will sing it in the latter end of a play, before the duke: peradventure, to make it the more gracious, I shall sing it at her death.
PIERROTThe symbol of all things theatrical. The utterly impersonal medium for dramatic expression. The mask of white destroys the distinctions of colour, race, or station. He may be emotionally, all things to all men. Most professional clowns cover their faces with a mixture of pure oxide of zinc and lard, and then powder thickly with dry oxide of zinc. This is the method that I adopt. Some may prefer to first paint the face with white grease paint and then powder with the zinc. The lips are painted with carmine. The eyes are outlined with black, and the eyebrows are definitely drawn. A spot of carmine is placed at the inner corner of each eye. ROMEOThe most romantic of the Shakespeare heroes, and physically the most attractive. As he is a beautified edition of Hamlet, the instruction for making-up is similar. Only no effort should be made to arrive at the intellectual type of face that is striven for in the case of the more serious part. The groundwork should be No. 2-1/2 with 3, a little 13, and yellow added to give it Italian warmth. After powdering, the cheeks may be dusted with dry rouge, and this should be carried up to the temples; a little on the end of the chin is also helpful. In juvenile make-ups it is always advisable to make the forehead lighter than the rest of the face, as it gives a feeling of animation to the countenance. ROMEO Romeo. He jests at scars, that never felt a wound. [Juliet appears above, at a window. But, soft! what light through yonder window breaks? THE APOTHECARY IN "ROMEO AND JULIET"This grim compounder of death-dealing drugs was for me a most interesting part to play; I made him up from head to foot. From the costumier I got the oldest garments that I could procure. At the elbows, knees, and heels, I destroyed them with acid, so that when I had them on the joints protruded. The coat and cloak, if I did not carefully bind them round me, disclosed my ribs. Wherever flesh showed I painted it in such a way that it suggested emaciation, and though in reality I am well favoured with flesh I was told that on the stage I looked like a skeleton done up in a bundle of rags. ROMEO AND JULIET APOTHECARY Apothecary. Who calls so loud?
THE THREE WITCHES IN "MACBETH"These sub-human creatures, weird, mysterious women that seem akin to cats and bats and toads. The first was made up by binding the nose down as is described in the instruction for Othello. The groundwork was of No. 2-1/2 with a great deal of yellow and a little brown. The cheeks were deeply shadowed, as were also the cavities of the eyes. The lines running from the nostrils to the corners of the mouth were strongly defined. The form of the lips was completely obliterated. Strong shadows were painted round the mouth. The illustration shows how definitely yellow and white were used for high lights. For the second witch I carried my nose upward by putting a silk thread under it, which I attached to the wig. Similar groundwork was used, and the same type of shadow was placed on the cheeks and round the eyes. The teeth were partly painted out with cobblers' wax. Finely cut crepe hair was dusted on the chin. The third witch had a nut-cracker type of nose and chin built of nose-paste. The cheeks were built out as in the case of Don Quixote. Moles and warts were freely scattered about the lower part of the face, some of them being armed with bristles. The colour for the groundwork and shadows was similar to that used for the first and second witches. As I have been so frequently asked how I managed to get three photographs of myself in one print, I may explain that separate negatives were taken, which were subsequently combined in a composite print. MACBETH1st Witch. Thrice the brinded cat hath mew'd.
UNCLE TOMThis kind-hearted negro, the idol of children, devout and forbearing, has ever made a profound appeal to me. The make-up is in many respects similar to that of Othello. In fact exactly the same instructions may be followed for shaping the nose. The wig, beard and moustache, eyebrows and the colour of the face, give it of course an entirely different character. The ground is of brown, with a little 13 added to give it warmth. Great care should be taken to get this colour well to the edges of the eyes or you will look more like the minstrel type of negro than that variety which was found on the plantations of Kentucky. The hands and arms, neck and ears, should all be carefully made up. FLEURYGay, debauched, and lascivious. An extreme type of French bohemian. Notice how the moustache is brushed back from the mouth; the insolent droop of the eyelids, and the elevation of the eyebrows. The nose runs directly up into the forehead as in the case of Iago. The hair is long and curls in bushy masses. Full instructions for making the beard will be found in the description accompanying the progressive stages of the false beard. A large black-rimmed eyeglass helps the characterisation. ABSINTHELinÉ. Drink? Fleury. Absinthe. LinÉ. Do you—do you—excuse me—paint? [Fleury shakes his head and drinks.] You are a poet? Fleury. Yes, my friend, I am [drinks]. I sing an answer to the siren's song. It is a ballad of such enchanting lewdness, they hold their breath to listen, and silenced they are lost. Many a dainty female thing, drunk with voluptuous ecstasy, has crept into my nets. LinÉ. On what seas do you roam? Fleury. Seas! He that mentions water in my hearing, even if he dignifies it with the name of sea, insults me gravely. The only liquid of my life is that which but a moment since made virile this poor glass, that now alas is dead. [Fleury's glass is filled, and he drinks, smacking his lips.] An ocean was not too much. Nay, all the fluid systems of the world I'd gulp within. An ocean here [putting his hand upon his stomach], a lake upon my tongue. Through every vein a burning river run, and to my brain great clouds would rise through which pale opalescent rainbows would never cease to play. From a Play by Cavendish Morton. THE PROFESSORMen who study assiduously a certain branch of the animal kingdom sometimes grow to look more or less like the things they contemplate. This etymologist has cultivated a family resemblance to the insects that he studies. The inquisitive eyes and the impertinent nose might well become a mosquito. The nose is elongated with nose-paste. The groundwork of No. 3 is used. The shadows and wrinkles are of lake mixed with a little blue. The high lights are of pale yellow. The eyebrows are of grey made by mixing black and white paint. The eyelashes are thickly coated with white. The face is treated with very light powder. The spectacles, unkempt hair and velvet cap, all give characteristic touches. Particular attention is called to the hands. They are shadowed at all spaces that occur between the bones with a mixture of lake and brown. Veins are outlined in blue and high lights on the bones and veins are accentuated with pale yellow. THE PROFESSORI caught it myself. I could dance for joy. It bit me on the wrist. I watched it suck my blood. I let it quietly feed, then I put a little glass over it and held it down until it was dead. See I have a ring upon my arm. I'll show you its sting under a microscope. THE SOUL STRUGGLEIn this, physical expression is given to the profound spiritual conflict that takes place within a man of definitely dual personality. He alternately comes under good and evil influences, each transition coming suddenly. As the changes occur while the character is in view of the audience, the whole effect has to be produced by the altered expression of face and of form. When working this character up I studied the effect in a full-length mirror, striving constantly to make one character more and more dignified, while the other was persistently degraded, till, ultimately, I attained the most distinctive contrast of character that it was possible to achieve without the aid of artificial make-up.
SIR THOMAS MOREThis print is included that it may be compared with the actual Holbein print. It shows how important accuracy of detail in the costuming of a part is. When I impersonated this character in the Chelsea Pageant, every London paper commented on the success of the make-up, the Times saying, if the Chancellor were to rise from the grave even he could hardly tell the difference between us; the Standard, that I realised Holbein's portrait with startling fidelity, and the Daily News, that I looked as if I had stepped directly out of Holbein's well-known canvas; while the Sketch and Referee called me a living Holbein. The additional pictures of Sir Thomas More are reproduced to show how well the illusion of character was maintained under the most trying conditions possible. Make-up usually seems more real when seen by artificial light, but as at the Chelsea Pageant, 1908, I had no such aid, the achievement of absolute reality was all the more difficult.
NAPOLEONAn example of how historical accuracy should be striven for. The success of this presentation depends on the actor more or less definitely resembling the first Emperor of the French. In my own case the only change I had to make in my appearance was to have my hair suitably cut. I went to infinite pains however to have each part of the costume an exact copy of that he wore. As very few prints are seen of Napoleon in Coronation robes, perhaps the illusion will not be so striking as it would have been had I chosen to represent him wearing his well-known hat. I preferred however to represent a less hackneyed picture. NAPOLEON Diderot. I have seen him on his throne. Barbeillon. Was it wonderful? Diderot. Wonderful! He looks like a baby swaddled in glory, sitting on his high chair. Barbeillon. Well? Diderot. It was wonderfully pitiful and pitifully wonderful. So terribly final. There he sat like a bad boy who had stolen the toyshop. He knows that no new thing may be created, so he sifts the old, and selecting the best puts them together as children build with blocks. He assembles with a perfection which sickens. Triumphant arch or wedding trousseau is arranged with equal facility. Barbeillon. How was he dressed? Diderot. The dandy of eternity, he had been to the clothing bazaar of time; taken what he fancied—CÆsar's hat, Queen Elizabeth's collar, Louis' cloak. Barbeillon. Extraordinary! Diderot. I know; but it was all so right. Round his neck a chain, an aviary of linked golden eagles. On his breast a mighty cross of five points as if it were built to crucify the senses of the world upon. In its centre a great N, the symbol of negation to humanity. No! no! no! it said to all mankind. But I felt from the look in his eyes that it had burnt through to his own heart. He is not blazing satisfaction, only smouldering discontent. I wonder if he'll smoulder out. From a Play by Cavendish Morton. False beards may be procured ready made on gauze, or may be made upon the face. When a very large growth of hair is desired the wigmaker's production is most suitable, but a small beard will have a much more natural appearance if it is made up directly upon the face. The twelve prints illustrating the method of work, practically explain themselves, but a few descriptive words may be helpful. Crepe hair is in far too curly a condition when procured from the wigmaker, to be used with much success. I moisten and comb out a large quantity of it, then allow it to dry. Fig. 1 of the progressive prints shows the hair being combed out, Fig. 2 being roughly cut into shape. In Fig. 3 this piece has been gummed into position. In Fig. 4 a circular bunch has been gummed to the chin. Fig. 5 the piece under the lower lip. Fig. 6 the covering of the cheek from ear to chin. Fig. 7 a small piece that runs from the corner of the mouth into the beard. Fig. 8 a blending of the beard with the cheek. Fig. 9 the placing of half the moustache. Fig. 10 the trimming of the beard. Fig. 11 illustrates how the moustache may be arranged; and Fig. 12 that the beard may be pulled into any form. The hair should not be pulled out in thick masses, and when it is in position may be brushed and combed even as a real beard might. It may be trimmed into any shape with an absolute certainty of its being realistic. |