A VERTICAL POWER MOTOR

The Field Frame is shown in detail in Figure 60. The exact shape and dimensions are best understood by a careful examination of the drawing.

The pattern for the field may be made of the same shape and practically the same size as indicated for the finished casting because the "rapping" or jarring which the pattern will receive in the foundry in order to free it from the sand mould will enlarge the mould sufficiently in a casting of small size to make up for any shrinkage which takes place upon the cooling of the iron.

The only exception to this is in the tunnel where the armature rotates. This should measure one and three-quarter inches in diameter when finished and should be slightly smaller in the rough casting so that there is enough material to allow for truing and bringing to equal size.

The Armature may be of two types, three pole or six pole. The three-pole armature is the simpler, but the six-pole type is the smoother running and gives the steadier power. The details and dimensions are shown in Figures 61 and 62. One of the armatures should be selected and a pattern built.

After the patterns are finished they should be given a coat of shellac and carefully rubbed with fine sandpaper so that they are perfectly smooth. Otherwise the sand is liable to stick in moulding and produce an imperfect casting.

Castings may be obtained from any foundry which is equipped to make grey iron castings. They should be as soft as possible. The cost will depend upon the quantity which are ordered. If only one set is required, the charge will probably be based upon the time required for making the moulds but if several sets are ordered the price may be based upon the weight.

After the castings have been received from the foundry, the first operation is to carefully remove all rough spots and burrs with a file.

Those who have a lathe or large drill press can easily finish the tunnel by turning or reaming. In the absence of these facilities, hand filing can be made to suffice, if carefully done.

The holes marked "BBBB" should be drilled with a No. 29 drill and tapped 8-32. These holes must be very carefully located because they serve to fasten the bearings. Each hole should be exactly opposite the other, two and five-sixteenth inches apart and on a line passing exactly through the centre of the tunnel.

The holes, "PP" and "SS", are three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. The former support the Binding Posts and the latter pass the screws which fasten the motor to the wooden base.

The armature, in the case of either the six or three pole type, has a three-sixteenth inch hole drilled along the axis to accommodate a steel shaft of the same diameter.

The armature casting should be accurately turned to a diameter of one and twenty-three thirty-seconds of an inch so that it will revolve in the tunnel without touching the field but still be very close to it.

Two holes bored through one of the pole pieces at right angles to the shaft with a No. 37 drill and threaded with a 6-32 tap will allow the armature to be clamped tightly to the shaft with two headless set screws.

The Field Winding consists of No. 16 double cotton insulated wire. Before the winding is put on, the core should be insulated with one or two layers of shellaced paper. Two circular pieces of shellaced paper should be placed against the flanges at the end of the core, so that the winding space is thoroughly insulated and there is no liability of the wire touching the iron at any point. The wire should be wound in smooth even layers. The winding space is completely filled. The outside layer may be finished by a coat of shellac.

The three-pole armature is much easier to wind than the six pole type. The wire used should be No. 24 B. & S. Gauge, double cotton covered. Before the wire is wound on, cover the winding space with shellaced paper so that the wire will not touch the iron at any point. Each coil should be wound in the same direction as the others starting at the same end and as close as possible to the inside.

The outside end of each coil should be connected to the inside of the next coil as shown in Figure 63. The diagram indicates only one layer of wire in each coil for the sake of clearness.

The winding upon the armature shown in Figure 64 is divided into six coils. Each coil consists of as many turns as possible of No. 24 B. & S. Gauge, cotton covered wire to fill the space completely and all coils are wound in the same direction. The illustrations show the various stages of the bindings with the two, four and six coils in place. The winding spaces on the armature should be carefully insulated with shellaced paper before the coils are placed in position.

After the winding has been finished the next step is to make the shaft and commutator. The shaft is a piece of three-sixteenths steel, three and one-quarter inches long. The shaft passes through the centre of the armature and is locked-in position by the two set screws.

The Commutator is probably one of the most difficult parts of the motor to make. It consists of three circular brass sections insulated from one another on a fibre bushing.

The fibre bushing is a hollow cylinder, five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and seventeen thirty-seconds of an inch long. The bushing should force tightly on the shaft. The segments are make by turning a piece of three-quarter inch brass rod in a lathe until it is one-half an inch in diameter for a distance of about seven-sixteenths of an inch. A five-sixteenths inch hole should be bored through the center so that it will fit tightly upon the fibre bushing.

Then cut the brass off one-half inch from the end so that it leaves a flange at one end, three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Saw it lengthwise into three equal parts and mount it upon the fibre bushing with a small strip of mica between each two sections to fill in the space made by the saw cuts. The sections are held together by a fibre ring, three quarters of an inch in diameter outside and one-half an inch in diameter inside. The ring should fit very tightly over the commutator and be forced down flush against the shoulder. After the ring is in position, file any mica which may project out of the slots down even with the surface of the segments and force the commutator onto the shaft with the shoulder against the armature. The commutator must fit very tightly so that there is not any possibility of moving it after it is in position.

The sections should bear a certain relative position to the armature windings. The diagrams in Figures 63 and 64 show the proper position for the three and six pole armature respectively.

The coils are connected to the commutator by soldering the terminals to the shoulder on each segment. This work should be very carefully done so as to insure a neat job and connection of the proper terminal to the proper section.

CONNECTIONS FOR THE THREE POLE ARMATURE

The inside terminal of coil A and the outside terminal of coil B should be connected to Section 1, the inside terminal of coil B and the outside terminal of coil C should be connected to Section 3, the inside terminal of coil C, and the outside terminal of coil A should be connected to Section 2.

CONNECTIONS FOR THE SIX-POLE ARMATURE

The inside terminal of coil A and the inside terminal of coil B should be connected to section 2, the outside terminal of coil C and the outside terminal of coil D should be connected to Section 3, the outside terminal of coil E and the outside terminal of coil F should be connected to Section 1, the outside terminal of coil A and the inside terminal of coil C should be connected to Section 1, the inside terminal of coil D and the inside terminal of coil E should be connected to Section 2, the inside terminal of coil F and the outside terminal of coil D should be connected to Section 3.

The wires leading from the coils to the commutator should be just as short as it is possible to make them and after being soldered should be bound down tightly with linen thread or string.

The bearings are both cast from brass. The details are shown in Figure 66 It will be necessary to make up wooden patterns and send them to a foundry. The location of the holes can be ascertained from the illustration.

Each of the brushes consists of a piece of strip copper, one-quarter of an inch wide and one and three-eighths inches long mounted in a brush holder made of one-quarter inch brass rod. The brush holder is one inch long and is turned down to a diameter of one-eighth of an inch at one end for a distance of nine-sixteenths of an inch and then threaded with a 6-32 die. The opposite end is slotted to receive the brush. The threaded portion of the holder is slipped through the holes, "B and B", in the bearing and prevented from making contact with the latter by a fibre bushing.

A fibre washer should also be slipped over the holder on each side of the bearing. Two hexagonal nuts are placed on the threaded stem. One serves to clamp the holder in position and the other to hold the wire used to make connection with the brush. The right hand brush should bear against the under side of the commutator and the left hand brush against the upper side.

After the armature has been assembled in the bearings and mounted on the field frame it should revolve freely without friction and without any possibility of its striking against the field poles.

The binding posts are mounted in the holes, "PP" in the lower parts of the field frame. They are insulated by two fibre or paper busings. The left hand binding post is connected to the inside terminal of the field winding. The outside terminal of the field winding is connected to the left hand binding post. The right hand binding post is connected to the right hand brush.

The base of the motor is a wooden block of suitable size.

The motor is of the series type because all the current flows through both the field and armature. A current of 2 to 6 volts will operate the motor. The pulley or gear required in order that the motor may be used as a source of power will depend upon the work for which the motor is to be employed. A small grooved pulley such as as that shown in Figure 63 may be fastened to the shaft with a set screw and will prove most useful for general purposes.

A HORIZONTAL POWER MOTOR.

The horizontal motor does not differ very materially from the vertical one just described.

The field frame is, however, made in two pieces, and the bearings are cast directly on the frame. The details and dimensions are given in Figures 68, 69 and 70.

The field winding consists of six layers of No. 18 B. & S. Gauge double cotton-covered wire wound on a spool or bobbin.

The core of the bobbin consists of a piece of five-eighths round steel or iron rod, two and seven-sixteenths inches long. Two circular fibre heads, one-eighth of an inch thick and one and one-half inches in diameter are mounted on the core one-half an inch from one end and fifteen-sixteenths of an inch apart. The ends of the core are set in the holes, "C, C," in the two parts of the field frame and held in position by two set screws threading into the holes "S" and "S."

Either the three-pole or the six-pole armature may be used. The commutator and brushes are identical with those used in the vertical type of motor.

The shaft is three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and four inches long. The brushes are mounted upon a brush arm which is shown in detail in Figure 63. This is made of three-sixteenths inch sheet brass. The brushes must be insulated from the arm by fibre washers and bushings in the same manner as they were from the bearings on the vertical motor.

The holes in the bearings on the field frame are drilled out three-eighths of an inch in diameter and then brushed with a piece of three-eighths inch brass rod five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter having a three-sixteenths inch hole through the center.

Here at last is the book which every young experimenter interested in constructing his own wireless apparatus has been looking for.

A book which tells how to build apparatus which anyone would be proud to own. It is a more advanced book than "Wireless Construction and Installation for Beginners," and describes apparatus which is much more elaborate and sensitive. The instruments have all been the subject of considerable experimental work and study. All the apparatus has been put to practical test and carefully improved by clever experts. By purchasing this book you get the benefit of vast knowledge and experience and are enabled to build far better instruments than by following your own designs and haphazard methods.

Chapter I.—THE AERIAL. Chapter II.—SPARK COILS. Chapter III.—TRANSMITTING APPARATUS AND ITS CONSTRUCTION. Chapter IV.—THE RECEIVING APPARATUS AND ITS CONSTRUCTION. Chapter V.—ARRANGEMENT AND OPERATION OF THE APPARATUS. COMPLETE DETAILS ARE GIVEN WITH WORKING DRAWINGS.

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Magnets and Magnetism—Static Electricity—Static Electric Machines—Cells and Batteries—Electro-Magnetism and Magnetic Induction—Electrical Units—Electrical Appurtenances—Electrical Measuring Instruments—Bells, Alarms and Annunciators—Electric Telegraphs—Microphones and Telephones—Induction Coils—Transformers—Wireless Telegraphy—Wireless Telephony—Electric Motors—Dynamos—An Electric Railway—Miniature Lighting—Miscellaneous Electrical Apparatus.

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This is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehensive treatises on the subject ever published, and a close study of its pages will enable one to master all the details of the wireless transmission of messages. The author has tilled a long-felt want and has succeeded in furnishing a lucid, comprehensible explanation in simple language of the theory and practice of wireless telegraphy and telephony. The book treats the subject from an entirely new standpoint. Several very novel and original ideas have been carried out in its making. It is well illustrated by over one hundred and fifty interesting photographs and drawings.. All diagrams have been made’ in perspective showing the instruments as they actually appear in practice. The drawings are carefully keyed and labeled. Many of the photographs are accompanied by phantom drawings which reveal the name and purpose of each part.

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I.—Introduction. II. The Apparatus. III.—Aerials and Earth Connections. IV.—Induction Coils. V.—Interrupters. VI.—Transformers. VII.—Oscillation Condensers and Leyden Jars. VIII.—Spark Gaps or Oscillators. IX.—Transmitting Helixes X.—Keys. XI.—Aerial Switches and Anchor Gaps. XII.—Hot Wire Ammeter. XIII.—Oscillation Detectors. XIV.—Tuning Coils and Tuning Transformers. XV.—Receiving Condensers. XVI.—Telephone Receivers and Headbands. XVII.—Operation. XVIII.—The Amateur and the Wireless Law. How to Secure a License. Oscillation Helix. Quenched Spark Gap. Rotary Gaps. Kick-Back. The Variometer. New Crystal Detectors. The Audion.—Appendix.

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Chapter I—STATIC ELECTRICAL APPARATUS—Static Electricity. How to Build a Wimshurst Machine. Experiments with Static Electrical Apparatus.

Chapter II—CELLS AND BATTERIES.

Chapter III—HOW TO REDUCE THE 110 VOLT D. C. OR A. C. TO A LOWER VOLTAGE FOR EXPERIMENTAL PURPOSES.

Chapter IV—HOW AN ALTERNATING CURRENT MAY BE CHANGED INTO DIRECT CURRENT BY MEANS OF AN ELECTROLYTIC RECTIFIER.

Chapter V—HOW TO BUILD A STEP-DOWN TRANSFORMER FOR REDUCING THE 110 VOLT A. C. FOR EXPERIMENTAL PURPOSES.

Chapter VI—ELECTRICAL MEASURING INSTRUMENTS. Galvanometers, Ammeters, Voltmeters, etc.

Chapter VII—CURRENT CONTROL DEVICES. How to Make a Pole Changing Switch or Current Reverser. How to Reverse Small Motors. Battery Rheostats.

Chapter VIII—HOW TO MAKE A TELEGRAPH KEY AND SOUNDER. How to Install a Telegraph Line and Learn to Operate. Learning the Morse Code.

Chapter IX—HOW TO MAKE AND INSTALL A TELEPHONE.

Chapter X—MEDICAL COILS AND SHOCKING COILS.

Chapter XI—THE CONSTRUCTION OF SPARK COILS. A one-quarter inch Coil, a one-half inch Coil, a one inch Coil. Experiments with Spark Coils.

Chapter XII—HOW TO MAKE A DYNAMO-MOTOR.

Chapter XIII—HOW TO MAKE A TOY BATTERY MOTOR.

Chapter XIV—HOW TO BUILD AN ELECTRIC ENGINE.

Chapter XV—MINIATURE BATTERY LAMP LIGHTING.

Chapter XVI—COHERER OUTFITS FOR WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY.

Chapter XVII—HOW TO BUILD A TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY COIL. Experiments with High Frequency Currents.

Chapter XVIII—AN EXPERIMENTAL WIRELESS TELEPHONE.

Chapter XIX—MISCELLANEOUS APPARATUS. Electrolysis of Water. Electro-Plating. Electricity from Heat. A Handy Light. An Experimental Arc Lamp. A Magnetic Diver. Magnetic Fish. A Magnetic Clown. An Electric Breeze. A Static Motor.

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An elementary text book for students, operators, experimenters and engineers. Naval wireless men find this book especially helpful. Tells in understandable language the fundamental operating principle of the vacuum tube. Shows over 100 different circuits for the practical use of the Vacuum Tube as a Detector, Radio or Audio Frequency Amplifier, Regenerative Receiver, Beat Receiver, and Generator of Radio Frequency Currents.

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It is the only book treating the subject of Radio Telephony in all its aspects.

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It shows how to obtain the very highest efficiency from any station, and how to comply with the law. How to tune, adjust your detector, spark gap, phones, etc.

This book was written for the wireless experimenter who has passed the amateur stage, but explains how the beginner also can obtain the very best results from his station. It contains much useful information to this end and many "kinks".

IT SHOWS HOW to receive or send on long or short wave lengths with highest efficiency, to tune for longest distance reception of messages, to use the buzzer test, how to test and connect condensers, receivers, etc., how to use receiving transformers, variometers, etc., all with highest efficiency in view.

IT ALSO DESCRIBES the construction and use of a simple, inexpensive wave meter to tune the station to any desired wave length, and tells how to obtain a sharp wave and a pure wave.

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Printed on first-class paper. Heavy cover in three colors.

We will update this book if we find any errors.

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