A GUIDE |
Sulphate of lime, | 31.680 | grains. |
Sulphate of magnesia, | 8.241 | " |
Sulphate of soda, | 4.050 | " |
Carbonate of lime, | 1.530 | " |
Carbonate of magnesia, | 0.506 | " |
Chloride of magnesium, | 0.071 | " |
Chloride of calcium, | 0.010 | " |
Chloride of sodium, | 0.226 | " |
Protosulphate of iron, | 0.069 | " |
Sulphate of alumine, | 0.012 | " |
Earthy phosphates, a trace. | ||
Azotized organic matter blended with a large proportion of sulphur, | about 5 grains. | |
Iodine combined with sodium or magnesium. |
Volume of each of the gases in a free state, contained in 100 cubic inches.
Sulphuretted hydrogen, | 0.66 to 1.30 | cubic | inches. |
Nitrogen, | 1.88 | " | " |
Oxygen, | 0.19 | " | " |
Carbonic acid, | 3.67 | " | " |
"The White Sulphur Water is peculiarly adapted to chronic affections of the organic system.
"It is highly beneficial in diseases of the stomach, liver, spleen, kidneys, bladder,—some derangements of the nervous system,—female disorders,—and scrofula, neuralgia, and rheumatism."
Nine miles west of the White Sulphur Springs is Lewisburg, the next place on our route. This is the county seat of Greenbrier, a flourishing town, and the most important in this region of country. The Court of Appeals holds its summer session in this place.
BLUE SULPHUR SPRINGS.
Thirteen miles west of Lewisburg and in the same county are the Blue Sulphur Springs; this is also a popular watering-place. There are considerable improvements here, and the situation is one of great natural beauty. The water tastes somewhat like that of the White Sulphur. The analysis of this water, by Professor Rogers, is as follows:—
Solid Ingredients.
- Sulphate of lime,
- Sulphate of magnesia,
- Sulphate of soda,
- Carbonate of lime,
- Carbonate of magnesia,
- Chloride of magnesium,
- Chloride of sodium,
- Chloride of calcium,
- Hydrosulphate of sodium and magnesium,
- Oxide of iron, existing as protosulphate,
- Iodine,
- Sulphur,
- Organic matters,
- Gaseous ingredients,
- Sulphuretted hydrogen,
- Carbonic acid,
- Oxygen,
- Nitrogen.
"The Spring is a bold one, furnishing fifteen gallons of water to the minute. There is a great deal of red; white, black, and other deposit from the water. In female diseases this water is superior to many others."
Three hundred persons can be accommodated at the Blue Sulphur.
SWEET SPRINGS.
In the county of Monroe, in one of the most beautiful valleys by nature in Western Virginia, seventeen miles southeast of the White Sulphur, are the Sweet Springs. The improvements here are extensive and comfortable, but not so handsome as some of the other watering-places.
Dr. Bell, in his work on Baths and Mineral Waters, describes the medicinal properties of these waters as follows:
"The water of the spring rises into a large cylindrical reservoir, from opposite sides of which it flows out by small pipes; one conveying water to the bath for the men, the other to that for the ladies. The men's bath is of a quadrangular form, surrounded by a wall, and open at the top. It is of tolerable extent and clear—the bottom being of gravel, and the water constantly flowing in, and as constantly passing out, after it reaches a certain height.
"The temperature of the Sweet Spring is 73° Fahrenheit, the same as that which, in England, by a strange blunder, is called Bristol Hot Well. There is considerable resemblance between the two in other respects, as well in the evolution of carbonic acid, as in the earthy and saline matters held in solution. In the Virginia Spring, however, iron has been detected, whereas the Bristol Hot Well has none in its composition.
"One quart of this water by Rowelle's analysis contains:—
Saline substances in general, | 12 | to | 15 | grains, |
Earthy substances, | 18 | " | 24 | " |
Iron, | ½ | " | 1 | grain. |
"The saline substances are; sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, and muriate of lime, with a little sulphate of lime. The earthy matters consist of sulphate of lime, a small portion of carbonate of magnesia and lime, with a small portion of silicious earth.
"This water is serviceable in dyspepsia, dysentery, diarrhoea, cough, and all calculous and nephritic complaints."
The following is from a writer who describes a morning's ride from the White Sulphur to the Sweet Springs: "We left the White Sulphur long before the inhabitants of Paradise Row were stirring, and in a little while our dapples were winding their way through some of the finest scenery romance or poetry had ever pictured. Over a smooth beaten road, which seemed to have been carved through the mountains, like the pass of Mount Athos, we went on, with woodland steeps on each side of us, and afar for many miles in front, we had a refreshing perspective in the high green hills. Occasionally, in coming to a turn in the road, some new wonder would open before us. At one time we were bordered on each hand by a rocky palisade of some hundred feet in height. And again, where the road was more narrow, we passed under natural arbours, formed by the meeting of the tops of the bending trees from each side of the way, and where the laurel was twining its own laurels on the branches.
"A ride of ten miles brought us to Crow's, with a relish for breakfast, or anything else that might be offered us.
"This is the place where so many excursions are made from the Springs, for dinner parties and picnics. The tavern stands on the corner of the road at the foot of a mountain, and the sign-board swings out in front, after the manner of Nicholas Vedder of old, and many a Rip Van Winkle can be found in the whereabouts, who knows the legends of the neighbourhood." Leaving Crow's, he continues:—"We left the picturesque behind us, and for the next six miles of our journey, we passed through a more cultivated country, with many large fields of waving wheat tops and corn blade. Within a mile or two of the Sweet, we came to what is called the Red Spring, an old dilapidated building, gray with age, and all its windows shattered.
"Before 12 o'clock we entered the smiling valley of the Sweet Springs. Whoever comes to the mountains, should make a visit to the Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much of the scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole place is redolent of life and animation, particularly at a time when thronging with company."
The accommodations at this place are sufficient for about 400 persons.
RED SPRINGS.
One mile nearer the White Sulphur are the Red Springs, or Sweet Chalybeate. This place has of late years been acquiring considerable notoriety.
About 200 persons can be comfortably accommodated here. "The waters are said to be good in neuralgia, and in rheumatic complaints. There are two springs here, the one near the hotel, essentially the same with the Sweet Springs, the other containing a larger quantity of iron, which being deposited about the spring in the form of red precipitate, has given the name of Red Spring. Professor Rogers' analysis of this water gives:—
"1st. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed, after being greatly dried at 112°, 40.76.
"A portion of this is combined water.
"2d. Quantity of each solid ingredient estimated as perfectly free from water:—
In 100 cubic inches. | |
Sulphate of lime, | 14.233 |
Sulphate of magnesia, | 3.107 |
Sulphate of soda, | 1.400 |
Carbonate of lime, | 1.166 |
Chloride of sodium, | 0.037 |
Chloride of magnesium, | 0.680 |
Chloride of calcium, | 0.010 |
Sesquioxide of iron, | 0.320 |
Organic matter in small quantities. | |
Iodine, a mere trace. |
"The iron is no doubt dissolved in the water as a carbonate.
"3d. Volume of each of the gases contained in a free state, in 100 cubic inches of water:—
Carbonic acid, | 46.10 | cubic | inches. |
Nitrogen, | 2.57 | " | " |
Oxygen, | .20 | " | " |
Sulphuretted hydrogen, a trace, too small to be mentioned. |
"4th. Composition of 100 inches of the mixed gases rising in bubbles in the Spring:—
Nitrogen, | 62.5 | |
Carbonic acid, | 37.5 |
"The temperature of the Red Spring is from 77° to 80° Fahrenheit."
SALT SULPHUR SPRINGS.
In the County of Monroe, twenty-six miles southwest from the White Sulphur, are the Salt Sulphur Springs; they are two miles from Union, the county seat. From a pamphlet written by Dr. MÜtter of Philadelphia, we copy the following account of these Springs:
"The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, are situated in the county of Monroe, in 37½° north latitude, 5° longitude west of Philadelphia, and at an elevation of about 1400 feet above tide water. All the springs are situated on 'Indian Creek,' a small limestone stream, which rises in a valley a few hundred yards above the Old or Sweet Spring, and after pursuing its 'devious way' for about 23 miles in a southwest direction, finally empties into New River, in Monroe County. It derives its name from the circumstance of the Indians, who, in former times were in the habit of entering the valley of Virginia from Kentucky and Ohio, almost invariably making it their 'Camping Stream.' Their graves, along with other traces of their frequent resort to this particular spot, are occasionally met with at the present day.
"The Salt Sulphur is hemmed in on every side by mountains. To the south and east, in full view, and about 10 miles distant, is Peters Mountain; due north, and about 14 miles distant, is a low spur of the Alleghany; and west, it is bounded by Swope's Mountain, at or near the base of which, are the two principal springs.
"It appears from the statement of some of the 'oldest inhabitants,' that the Old or Sweet Spring was discovered in 1802 or 1803 by Alexander Hutchinson, Esq., who was engaged in boring for salt along Indian Creek. For several years it enjoyed much celebrity, and was annually the resort of a large company.
"The house occupied as the hotel, and several of the old cabins, are still standing. The opening of the Salt Sulphur Spring, the medical properties of which are so much more strongly marked, and the erection of commodious buildings near it, soon destroyed the fame of the Sweet, the water of which at the present time is used almost exclusively for the baths, although there are some individuals who still prefer it to that of either the Salt or New Spring. To gratify such, and at the same time to test the value of the water, the enterprising proprietors, in the summer of 1839, caused the spring to be deepened and thoroughly repaired. At present it is enclosed in a white marble reservoir, two feet square by two feet four inches in depth, over which is erected a neat wooden edifice, of an order 'sui generis.' In taste, smell, colour, and constituents, it closely resembles the Salt Spring, but is much more feeble as a remedial agent, which is to be attributed to its containing a smaller quantity of the active principles common to both.
"The second spring, or the Salt Sulphur proper, was discovered in 1805, by Erwin Benson, Esq. He was induced to believe that either sulphur or salt might be found in considerable quantities at the spot now occupied by the spring, from the fact of its being the favourite 'lick,' of immense herds of buffalo and deer. Under this impression he began boring, and penetrated but a short distance below the surface, when he struck the vein of sulphur water, now constituting the spring. Like the old, this spring is enclosed in a marble reservoir, two feet square, and about two feet ten inches deep, but from the boldness of its sources, it is probable, that this spring will be enlarged. It is protected from the influence of the weather; by a neat and appropriate edifice, furnished with seats. The water possesses all the sensible properties of the sulphur waters in general; its odour, for instance, is very like that of a 'tolerable egg,' and may, in certain states of the atmosphere, be perceived at some distance from the spring, and in taste it is cousin-german to a strong solution of Epsom salts and magnesia. In a short time, however, strange to say, these disagreeable properties are either not observed, or become on the other hand, attractive; indeed, there is hardly an instance of an individual's retaining his original repugnance to them longer than three or four days, and some there are, who become so excessively fond of the water, as to give it the preference over any other liquid. Like most of the sulphurous, this water is perfectly transparent, and deposits a whitish sediment composed of its various saline ingredients mingled with sulphur. It is also for the most part placid; occasionally, however, it is disturbed by a bubble of gas which steals slowly to the surface, where it either explodes with a timid and dimpling smack, or is eagerly caught up by some careworn and almost world-weary invalid, as a gem from the treasury of Hygeia!"
Analysis of the Salt Sulphur Springs, by Professor Rogers
"Temperature variable from 49° to 56°. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed after being dried at 212°, 81.41 grains.
Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated as perfectly free from water.
1. | Sulphate of lime, | 36.755 | grains. |
2. | Sulphate of magnesia, | 7.883 | " |
3. | Sulphate of soda, | 9.682 | " |
4. | Carbonate of lime, | 4.445 | " |
5. | Carbonate of magnesia, | 1.434 | " |
6. | Chloride of magnesium, | 0.116 | " |
7. | Chloride of sodium, | 0.683 | " |
8. | Chloride of calcium, | 0.025 | " |
9. | Peroxide of iron derived from protosulphate, | 0.042 | " |
10. | An azotized organic matter blended with sulphur, about, | .004 | " |
11. | Earthy phosphates, a trace. | ||
12. | Iodine, a trace. |
Volume of each of the gases, contained in a free state, 100 cubic inches.
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, | 1.10 to 1.50 | cubic | inches. |
Nitrogen, | 2.05 | " | " |
Oxygen, | 0.27 | " | " |
Carbonic acid, | 5.75 | " | " |
"I enclose you a list of the ingredients in the Salt Sulphur water, which applies to the New as well as the Old Spring; the former having rather a smaller amount of saline matter in general, though in some ingredients surpassing the other. It has been very minutely analyzed, and is the first of all the waters in which I was able to detect traces of iodine, which it contains in a larger amount than the Old Spring, and, indeed, most of the other waters in which I have been so fortunate as to discover this mineral.
Diseases to which the Salt Sulphur is applicable.
"Chronic diseases of the brain, neuralgia, nervous diseases, chronic diseases of the chest, disease of the heart, chronic diseases of the abdominal viscera, hepatic affections, chronic splenitis, chronic gastric irritation, gastralgia, or nervous dyspepsia, pyrosis, or water brash, chronic irritation of the bowels, constipation, hemorrhoids, chronic diseases of the urinary organs, chronic diseases of the genitals, chronic rheumatism and gout, mercurial rheumatism, periostitis and inflammation of the bones, chronic diseases of the skin, &c."
RED SULPHUR SPRINGS.
The Red Sulphur Springs are situated in the County of Monroe, 43 miles southwest of the White Sulphur, and 17 miles west of the Salt Sulphur.
The improvements at this place are very handsome, and afford accommodation for three hundred and fifty persons. The following is from a pamphlet, written by Dr. Hunt of Washington City:
"The Red Sulphur Spring is situated in latitude 37° 37', about 20 miles southwest of Union, which is the seat of justice for the county. The approach to the village is beautifully romantic and picturesque. Wending his way around a high mountain, the weary traveller is for a moment charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden view of his resting-place, some hundreds of feet immediately beneath him. Continuing the circuitous descent, he at length reaches a ravine, which conducts him, after a few rugged steps, to the entrance of a verdant glen, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The south end of this enchanting vale, which is the widest portion of it, is about 200 feet in width. Its course is nearly north for about 150 yards, when it begins gradually to contract, and changes its direction to the northwest and west, until it terminates in a narrow point. This beautiful secluded Tempe is the chosen site of the village. The northwest portion is occupied by stables, carriage-houses, and shops of various sorts; the southern portion, just at the base of the east and west mountains, is that upon which stand the various edifices for the accommodation of visiters.
"These buildings are spacious and conveniently arranged, the servants are prompt and obedient, and the 'table d'hote' is abundantly supplied with every variety of viands that can tempt the appetite. The promenades, which are neatly enclosed by a white railing, are beautifully embellished, and shaded from the midday sun by indigenies of the forest,—the large, umbrageous sugar maple. The spring is situated at the southwest point of the valley, and the water is collected into two white marble fountains, over which is thrown a substantial cover.
"At the distance of a few hundred yards from the Red Sulphur Spring, up the south ravine, there is another spring, supposed to be a chalybeate, of a singular character.
"In a conversation with Mr. Harvey, a plain, honest, and sensible man, who was the former proprietor of the Red Sulphur Spring, I gathered the following facts, which I give in his own words. He stated, 'That he had lived at and about the place for upwards of forty-three years. The spring was first visited by the neighbours for itch, sore legs, and other inveterate diseases of the skin, which were always cured by drinking the water, and rubbing the parts affected with the muddy deposit. About thirty-six years ago, Dr. John Cabell, of Lynchburg, Va., was the first person who visited the spring for a cough and disease of the throat, attended with chills and fevers. He remained here several weeks, and returned home much better. The next season several other persons came, with cough and every appearance of consumption. Afterwards, the number of visiters afflicted with this disease increased every year. There are many persons now living, within my knowledge (said Mr. Harvey), and enjoying excellent health, who visited this spring many years ago, to all appearance in the last stage of consumption. The visiters who were most benefited by the water remained here five or six weeks, confined themselves to a diet of rye mush and milk, and were industrious in rising early, drinking the water, and taking exercise. Others, who indulged themselves in eating, sleeping late in the morning, and lounging about during the day, derived but little advantage from the use of the water; and generally returned home dissatisfied. The cold plunging or shock bath, was used in those days with decided advantage. I never knew a case injured by the use of the cold bath. Many cases of dropsy visited the spring, and I never knew an instance where they were not relieved by the use of the water. One of my neighbours was cured many years ago by the use of this water, and now enjoys excellent health. I have known many persons affected with complaints of the liver and bowels, completely relieved by the Red Sulphur water. From the first of May to the middle of November is the proper time for using the water to advantage, but I think it strongest, in its various virtues, during the months of September and October.'
"The following was presented to me by Dr. Saunders, the resident physician, as an analysis of the Red Sulphur water, made at the spring by Professor Rogers, the geologist of Virginia; but it certainly does not satisfactorily account for the wonderful effects of the water.
Temperature of the Spring, 54° Fahr.
Gaseous contents in an imperial gallon.
Sulphuretted hydrogen, | 4.54 | cubic | inches. |
Carbonic acid, | 8.75 | " | " |
Nitrogen, | 4.25 | " | " |
"Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, grains 1.25, consisting of sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and muriate of soda. Besides these ingredients the water contains, in considerable quantity, a peculiar organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, is deposited on the sides of the spring, and seems to increase by a species of organic growth.
"The Red Sulphur water is decidedly sedative in its effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, tranquillizes irritation, and reduces the frequency of the pulse in the most astonishing manner.
"It is not uncommon for persons to arrive at the spring, who have not been able to sleep during the night, even with the aid of opium, and who, after drinking the water for a few days, find their nervous irritation so soothed and allayed, that no other anodyne is required to procure them full repose for the night.
"This water has been considered peculiarly adapted to the cure of pulmonary diseases, and it is true that it has a most beneficial influence in most cases of this disease; but its good effects equally extend to all cases of subacute inflammation, whether seated in the stomach, liver, spleen, intestines, kidneys, or bladder, and most particularly in the mucous membrane. In fact, nature never yet gave to man a remedy capable of more extensive application, nor better calculated to relieve a larger class of diseases.
"The late venerable Dr. R. H. Bradford, of Virginia, who practised medicine for many years at the Red Sulphur, in a communication on the subject of the water, remarks—'The effect of this water in reducing the frequency of the pulse, is one of the numerous, singular, and powerful properties belonging to it. It lessens arterial action to such a degree, that it seldom fails to remove fever, difficulty of breathing, and pain in the chest. When the patient is restricted to a proper regimen, this water may be taken with greater advantage in all pulmonary cases, than any other remedy I have ever employed for that purpose. It is also an important remedy in enlarged liver and spleen, and in diseases of the mucous membrane generally.'
"The water of the Red Sulphur seems to act by soothing irritation, lessening the frequency of the pulse, and by subduing the inflammation of the tissues in contact with the tubercles, and thereby rendering the tubercles harmless; and also by suspending that tendency of the system to generate or deposit tuberculous matter.
"The Red Sulphur water may be used with the most decided benefit in obstinate cases of bowel complaint, gleet, leucorrhoea, catarrh of the bladder, and uterine derangement."
ROUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS.
The other route from Washington City to the Virginia Springs is by railroad to Harper's Ferry, 104 miles. Stopping at this place, the traveller has an opportunity of viewing the "Passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge," which, says Mr. Jefferson, "is one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land; on your right up comes the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; in the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time; that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge Mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that, continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the distant finishing which Nature has given to the picture is of a very different character; it is a true contrast to the foreground; it is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous; for the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the clefts, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult warring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm below. There the eye ultimately composes itself, and that way, too, the road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. The scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic, yet here, as in the neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.'
"From Harper's Ferry, we take the cars to Charlestown, 10 miles. Leaving the cars at this place, an opportunity is afforded of visiting
SHANNONDALE SPRINGS,
"Another of the celebrated watering-places of Virginia.
"They are in Jefferson County, five miles south from Charlestown, on an eminence of the Shenandoah; in a healthy and delightful region. The reputation of the water is so well established, that it is deemed scarcely necessary to mention its qualities. It is sent for and taken to New York, Charleston, and other distant places. The analysis of the late Dr. De Butts, in 1821, classed the principal fountain with the saline chalybeates,—a combination of the most valuable description in the whole range of mineral waters, and closely resembling those of the celebrated Bedford, in composition, operation, and efficacy. There is also a highly valuable sulphur spring in the vicinity. Apart from the merits of the waters, Shannondale is remarkable for the sublime and beautiful natural scenery, which is said to surpass Bath and Bristol in England, and that of Saratoga and Ballston in New York."
Returning to Charlestown, we again take the cars for Winchester, 22 miles. This is a very flourishing town, and the largest in the valley of Virginia. Here ends railroad travelling on this route. Twenty-two miles west from this place, in Hampshire County, are
CAPON SPRINGS.
The following account of these springs is copied from an advertisement of June, 1850.
"The high reputation of the waters of the 'Capon Spring' is not permanently established, but is yearly increasing, particularly in cases of dyspepsia, general debility, &c.
"Its convenience of access renders it an available point for invalids, or persons who are not disposed to undergo the fatigues of a long journey, over rough and dusty roads, in the heat of summer. Being near the route to the White Sulphur, in Greenbrier, it will be a delightful resting-place for persons visiting those celebrated springs. The well-attested, cool, dry mountain atmosphere of 'Capon;' the fine sulphur and chalybeate waters in its immediate vicinity; its neighbouring trout streams and river fishing; its shaded walks and drives, (now being constructed,) with the usual amusements of a mountain watering-place, impart to it some of its attractions and claims on the public, and fully establishes it as one of the most agreeable as well as accessible summer retreats in this country, either for the seekers of health or pleasure."
This watering-place not being on the main valley route, we return to Winchester. Six miles north of this place are
JORDAN'S WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.
This watering-place has lately come into notice, and is growing in popular favour. The water is said to resemble the celebrated White Sulphur Spring of Greenbrier. Again returning to Winchester, we proceed on our way upon the macadamized road up the beautiful valley of Virginia to Newtown, 8 miles, Strasburg, 10 miles, Woodstock, 11½ miles. Eighteen miles from this, in Shenandoah County, are the
ORKNEY, OR YELLOW SPRINGS.
"These waters are composed of several lively springs, and are strongly chalybeate. Everything the water passes through, or over, is beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe or moss. The use of this water is found beneficial for the cure of several complaints. A free use of this water acts as a most powerful cathartic, as does also a small quantity of the fringe, or moss mixed with common water."
Returning to Woodstock, we once more take the macadamized road, to Mount Jackson, 13 miles, Newmarket, 7 miles, Spartapolis, 6½ miles, Harrisonburg, 11 miles. Twelve miles from this place is
RAWLEY'S SPRING.
The following account of this watering-place is given by Dr. Moorman, in his work on the White Sulphur Springs.
"Rawley's Spring is situated on the southern slope of the North Mountain, in the county of Rockingham, 12 miles northwest from Harrisonburg, and about 120 miles northeast from the White Sulphur. The Rawley water is a strong and pure chalybeate, and well adapted to cases requiring such a tonic.
"The writer has had some experience in the use of this water, and for many years has been in the habit of occasionally directing its use in cases to which it is applicable. As a pure iron tonic, it deserves to stand at the very head of that class of remedies.
"In that class of female affections, dependent upon debility or want of tone in the uterine system, this water is an exceedingly valuable remedy. Its salutary effects in cases of this description are often as remarkable as they are gratifying, restoring the functions of the debilitated organ, and imparting vigour and health to the whole system."
From Harrisonburg we proceed to Mount Crawford, 8 miles, Mount Sidney, 7 miles, thence to Staunton, 10 miles.
Leaving the macadamized road at Harrisonburg, visiters to the springs frequently travel, via the Augusta Springs, to the Warm Springs, 60 miles, thereby shortening the distance about 14 miles.
Another route, via Staunton, to the springs, is to Lexington, 35 miles. This is the prettiest town in the valley of Virginia. Here are located Washington College and the "Virginia Military Institute," both flourishing institutions. The Natural Bridge is 15 miles southwest of Lexington; and 17 miles west of Lexington are the
ROCKBRIDGE ALUM SPRINGS.
On the stage road to the Bath Alum and the Warm Springs, in Bath County. The improvements here are new and comfortable, sufficient to accommodate about one hundred persons.
"This water contains a rare and valuable combination of materials; the principal are iodine, sulphates of iron and alum, magnesia, and sulphuric acid. The water is tonic, increasing the appetite and promoting digestion; it is alterative, exciting the secretions of the glandular system generally, and particularly of the liver and kidneys; it is cathartic, producing copious bilious evacuations; and it also effects a determination to the surface, increasing the perspiration.
"From the efficacy of these waters in purifying the blood, they are invaluable in the cure of all diseases of the skin; and all indolent sores, not disposed to a healthy action. In the use of them for such diseases, if the disease of the skin appears to be irritated at first, or if the ulcers become more inflamed, and discharge more freely, let not this circumstance alarm any one, or deter him from persevering in their use. These are the evidences of the good effects of the waters, in expelling the vitiated humours from the blood to the surface, and, until the blood is purified, such diseases cannot be cured. In scrofulous ulcers, the use of these waters invariably causes them to discharge more freely, and in a short time of a more healthy appearance. They are a very useful remedy in cholera infantum, or the summer bowel complaint in children. They immediately give a good appetite, promote digestion, and will effectually correct and cure acidity of the stomach. In amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, and leucorrhoea, the waters are peculiarly efficacious. Most obstinate cases of scrofula, erysipelas, and dyspepsia, have been cured by these waters, which preserve their medicinal qualities when sent away in barrels."
ROUTES FROM RICHMOND.
From Richmond the routes to the Springs are, railroad to the junction, 27 miles, and from thence to Charlottesville as already given; or by James River Canal to Scottsville, 79 miles, and from thence by stage to Brooksville, 25 miles; or continuing on the canal to Lynchburg, 67 miles, and thence by stage to the Natural Bridge, 38 miles.
This celebrated curiosity is in the county of Rockbridge. It crosses a small stream called "Cedar Creek." Howe, in his Sketches of Virginia, has the following eloquent description, which was published originally in Europe.
"This famous bridge is on the head of a fine limestone hill, which has the appearance of having been rent asunder by some terrible convulsion in nature. The fissure thus made is about 90 feet; and over it the bridge runs, so needful to the spot, and so unlikely to have survived the great fracture, as to seem the work of man; so simple, so grand, so great, as to assure you that it is only the work of God. The span of the arch runs from 45 to 60 feet wide; and its height, to the underline is about 200 feet, and to the head about 240! The form of the arch approaches to the elliptical, and it is carried over a diagonal line, the very line of all others so difficult to the architect to realize, and yet so calculated to enhance the picturesque beauty of the object.
"There are chiefly three points of sight. You naturally make your way to the head of the bridge first, and as it is a continuation of the common road, with its sides covered with fine shrubs and trees, you may be on it before you are aware; but the moment you approach through the foliage to the side you are filled with apprehension. It has, indeed, a natural parapet, but few persons can stand forward and look over. You instinctively seek to reduce your height, that you may gaze on what you admire with security. Even then it agitates you with dizzy sensations. You then make your way some fifty feet down the bosom of the hill, and are supplied with some admirable standings on the projecting rockwork, to see the bridge and all its rich accompaniments. There is, 200 feet below you, the Cedar Creek, apparently motionless, except where it flashes with light as it cuts its way through the broken rocks. Mark the trees of every variety, but especially the fir, how they diminish as they stand on the margin of its bed; and how they ascend, step by step, on the noble rockwork, till they overshadow you, still preserving such delicacy of form and growth, as if they would not do an injury while they lend a grace. Observe those hills, gathering all around you in their fairest forms and richest verdure, as if to do honour to a scene of surpassing excellence. Now look at the bridge itself, springing from this bed of verdant loveliness, distinct, one, complete! It is before you in its most picturesque form; you just see through the arch, and the internal face of the further pier is perfectly revealed. Did you ever see such a pier, such an arch? Is it not most illusive? Look at that masonry. Is it not most like the perfection of art, and yet what art could never reach? Look at that colouring. Does it not appear like the painter's highest skill, and yet unspeakably transcend it? This is exquisite; still, you have no just conception of this masterpiece until you get below. You go some little distance for this purpose, as in the vicinity of the bridge the rocks are far too precipitous. A hot and brilliant day is, of all others, the time to enjoy this object. To escape from a sun which scorches you, into these verdant and cool bottoms, is a luxury of itself, which disposes you to relish everything else. When down, I was careful of the first impression, and did not venture to look steadily on the objects about me till I had selected my station. At length I placed myself about 100 feet from the bridge, on some masses of rock, which were washed by the running waters, and ornamented by the slender trees which were springing from its fissures. At my feet was the soothing melody of the rippling, gushing waters; behind me, and in the distance, the creek and the hills were expanding themselves to the light and splendour of day; before me, and all around, everything was reposing in the most delightful shade, set off by the streaming rays of the sun, which shot across the head of the picture far above you, and sweetened the solitude below. On the right and left, the majestic rocks arose, with the decision of a wall, but without its uniformity, massive, broken, beautiful, and supplying a most admirable foreground; and, everywhere, the most delicate stems were planted in their crevices, and waving their heads in the soft breeze, which occasionally came over them. The eye now ran through the bridge, and was gratified with a lovely vista. The Blue Mountains stood out in the background; beneath them, the hills and woods gathered together, so as to enclose the dell below; while the creek, which was coursing away from them, seemed to have its well-head hidden in their recesses. Then there is the arch distinct from everything, and above everything. Massive as it is, it is light and beautiful by its height, and the fine trees on its summit seem now only like a garland of evergreens; and, elevated as it is, its apparent elevation is wonderfully increased by the narrowness of its piers, and by its outline being drawn on the blue sky, which appears beneath and above it! Oh, it is sublime—so strong, and yet so elegant—springing from the earth, and bathing its head in heaven! But it is the sublime not allied to the terrific, as at Niagara; it is the sublime associated with the pleasing. I sat and gazed in wonder and astonishment. That afternoon was the shortest I ever remember. I had quickly, too quickly, to leave the spot for ever; but the music of those waters, the luxury of those shades, the form and colour of those rocks, and that arch—that arch—rising over all, and seeming to offer a passage to the skies—O, they will never leave me!"
Leaving the Natural Bridge, we proceed to
DIBRELL'S SPRING,
In Botetourt County, 19 miles. "This watering-place is 43 miles from the White Sulphur. The buildings here are very neat and comfortable, and sufficient for the accommodation of about 200 persons."
The following analysis of the water is by Professor Rogers:
Solid Ingredients.
- Carbonate of soda,
- Sulphate of soda,
- Chloride of sodium,
- Carbonate of magnesia,
- Peroxide of iron,
- Silicia dissolved.
"Organic matter containing chloride of potassium, nitrogen, carbonate of lime, and carbonate of ammonia.
Gaseous Ingredients.
- Carbonic acid,
- Oxygen,
- Sulphuretted hydrogen,
- Nitrogen.
"The water of Dibrell's Spring partakes of all the general characteristics of the other sulphur waters, and may be used with good effects in all cases to which such waters are adapted. In certain dyspeptic depravities, especially, it deserves a high rank among our mineral waters."
From Dibrell's Spring the road leads by Clifton Forge, 10 miles,—the scenery at this place is very fine,—Covington, 13 miles, and to Calahan's, 5 miles.
Another route from Lynchburg is by stage to New London, 10 miles, to Liberty, 15 miles. Here we would advise the traveller to leave the stage, and make a visit to the Peaks of Otter. They are about 7 miles northwest from this place. The following description of them is from the Southern Literary Messenger:
"After riding about a mile and a quarter, we came to the point beyond which horses cannot be taken, and, dismounting our steeds, commenced ascending on foot. The way was very steep, and the day so warm, that we had to halt often to take breath. As we approached the summit, the trees were all of a dwarfish growth, and twisted and gnarled by the storms of that high region. There were, also, a few blackberry bushes, bearing their fruit long after the season had passed below. A few minutes longer brought us to where the trees ceased to grow; but a huge mass of rocks, piled wildly on the top of each other, finished the termination of the peak. Our path lay for some distance around the base of it, and under the overhanging battlements; and rather descending for a while, until it led to a part of the pile which could with some effort be scaled. There was no ladder, nor any artificial steps, and the only means of ascent was by climbing over the successive rocks. We soon stood upon the wild platform of one of nature's most magnificent observatories, isolated and apparently above all things else terrestrial, and looking down upon and over a beautiful, variegated, and at the same time grand, wild, wonderful, and almost boundless panorama. Indeed, it was literally boundless; for there was a considerable haze resting upon some parts of 'the world below;' so that, in the distant horizon, the earth and sky seemed insensibly to mingle with each other. I had been there before. I remember when a boy of little more than ten years old, to have been taken to that spot, and how my unpractised nerves forsook me at the sublimity of the scene. On this day it was as new as ever; as wild, wonderful, and sublime, as if I had never before looked from those isolated rocks, or stood on that awful summit. On one side, towards Eastern Virginia, lay a comparatively level country, in the distance bearing strong resemblance to the ocean; on the other hand were ranges of high mountains, interspersed with cultivated spots, and then terminating in piles of mountains, following in successive ranges, until they were lost also in the haze. Above and below, the Blue Ridge and Alleghanies ran off in long lines; sometimes relieved by knolls and peaks, and in one place above us making a graceful curve, and then again running off in a different line of direction. Very near us stood the rounded top of the other peak, looking like a sullen sentinel for its neighbour. We paused in silence for a time. We were there almost cut off from the world below, standing where it was fearful even to look down. It was more hazy than at the time of my last visit, but not too much so to destroy the interest of the scene.
"There was almost a sense of pain, at the stillness which seemed to reign. We could hear the flapping of the wings of the hawks and buzzards, as they seemed to be gathering a new impetus after sailing through one of their circles in the air below us. North of us, and on the other side of the Valley of Virginia, were the mountains near Lexington, just as seen from that beautiful village,—the Jump, North, and House Mountains succeeding each other; they were familiar with a thousand associations of our childhood, seeming mysteriously, when away from the spot, to bring my early home before me—not in imagination, such as had often haunted me when I first left to find another in the world, but in substantial reality.
"Further on down the valley, and at a great distance, was the top of a large mountain, which was thought to be the Great North Mountain, away down in Shenandoah County—I am afraid to say how far off. Intermediate between these mountains, and extending opposite and far above us, was the Valley of Virginia, with its numerous and highly cultivated farms. Across this valley, and in the distance, lay the remote ranges of the Alleghany and mountains about, and, I suppose, beyond the White Sulphur Springs. Nearer us, and separating Eastern and Western Virginia, was the Blue Ridge, more than ever showing the propriety of its cognomen of the 'backbone;' and on which we could distinctly see two zigzag turnpikes, the one leading to Fincastle, and the other to Buchanan; and over which latter we had travelled a few days before. With the spy-glass we could distinguish the houses in the village of Fincastle, some 25 or 30 miles off, and the road leading to the town.
"Turning towards the direction of our morning's ride, we had beneath us Bedford County, with its smaller mountains, farms, and farm-houses—the beautiful village of Liberty, the county roads, and occasionally a mill-pond, reflecting the sun like a sheet of polished silver. The houses on the hill at Lynchburg, 25 or 30 miles distant, are distinctly visible on a clear day, and also Willis' Mountain, away down in Buckingham County.
"I had often visited Bedford, and had been more or less familiar with it from childhood, but at our elevation, distances were so annihilated, and appearances so changed, that we could scarcely recognise the most familiar object. After some difficulty, we at length made out the residence of Dr. M., we had that morning left, and at that moment rendered more than usually interesting by containing, in addition to the other very dear relatives, two certain ladies, who sustained a very interesting connexion with the Doctor and myself, and one of whom had scarcely laid aside the blushes on her bridal hour.
"A little beyond this, I recognised the former residence of a beloved sister, now living in a far distant southern state. It was the same steep hill ascending to the gate, the same grove around the house, as when she lived there, and the same as when I played there in my boyhood. And it was the first time I had seen it since the change of owners. I then saw it from the Peaks of Otter: but it touched a thousand tender chords; and I almost wept when I thought that those I once there loved were far away, and that the scenes of my youthful days could not return.