To Lhassa at Last :: CONTENTS

CONTENTS

CHAPTER		PAGE
	Preface	v
I.	The Writing on the Wall	1
II.	Preliminaries	6
III.	The Base	13
IV.	To Gnatong	18
V.	Mountain Sickness: Gnatong: Wayside Witticisms	25
VI.	Over the Jalap-LÀ: Chumbi: Beards	32
VII.	To Phari	42
VIII.	To Kangma	51
IX.	Naini: Tibetan Warfare	59
X.	At Gyantse: Fighting: Foraging: Tibetan Religious Art	67
XI.	The Start for Lhassa: a Digression on Supply and Transport	77
XII.	To Ralung: More Supply Matters: A Visit to a Monastery	92
XIII.	The Karo-LÀ	99
XIV.	Nagartse: Envoys: Demolitions: Baths: Boiling Water	105
XV.	Lake Palti: Drawing Blank: Pete-jong	112
XVI.	Over the Kamba-LÀ: The Land of Promise	122
XVII.	The Crossing of the Tsangpo: A Sad Accident	126
XVIII.	The End of the Crossing: The 'Chit' in Tibet	134
XIX.	Monasteries: Foraging in Monasteries: A Dream	140
XX.	Reaching Lhassa: Supplies: Messing: The Lhassa Bazaar	149
XXI.	Enough of Lhassa: A Trip down Country: Life in a Post: True Hospitality: A Bhutya Pony	165
XXII.	The Signing of the Treaty	181
XXIII.	Back to India	189

Lhassa.

(From a photograph)
By permission from 'Black and White'

Clyx.com