| CHAPTER I |
| The Black Forest—The Brigach and the Brege—The Highest Sources of the Danube—Journey thence from London—Villingen—Arrival at Donaueschingen—The Canoes and Outfit—Arbitrary Source of the Danube | PageI |
| CHAPTER II |
| The Start—Swans and Spectators—The First Weir and First Luncheon—Society for the Preservation of the Banks of the Danube—Tuttlingen and Max Schneckenburger—First Public Performance at a Weir—First Night in Camp and a Spoiled Breakfast—Monastery of Beuron and its Monks—Crags and Castles | 15 |
| CHAPTER III |
| Sigmaringen and Hohenzollern—Nuns at Riedlingen—Haymakers and Haymaking—The Last Weir—A Vigorous Current—The Confluence of the Iller and the Danube—Ulm and the Danube Rowing Club—Start from Ulm—Appointment of Camp-finder | 32 |
| CHAPTER IV |
| Lauingen; Its Architecture and its People—Blenheim and HÖchstÄdt—DonauwÖrth—Lumber-rafts and our Narrow Escape—Virtuous Vohburg—Roman Remains and one of the Scenes in the “Niebelungenlied”—Weltenburg Abbey—The Befreiungshalle and Kelheim—In Sight of Ratisbon | 46 |
| CHAPTER V |
| Ratisbon; Its Architecture and its People—The Walhalla—The Plain of Straubing—A Summer Squall—A Typical Bavarian Farm-house—Visit to a Local Freight Flat-boat—Rowing Clubs at Deggendorf and at Winzer | 59 |
| CHAPTER VI |
| Fourth of July at Passau—The Austrian Frontier—Through the Gorge in Rainy Weather—A Curious Ferry—A Brief Halt at Linz and a Camp at the Mouth of the Traun—Shooting the Rapids below Grein—Melk and the Pass below | 74 |
| CHAPTER VII |
| DÜrrenstein, the Dungeon of Richard Coeur de Lion—Ruins and Sentiment—A Gem of River Scenery—Canalization of the River—The only “Blue Danube”—Tulln and its Antiquities—Active River Commerce—Our Raftsmen Friends | 88 |
| CHAPTER VIII |
| Vienna; Its History and Characteristics—The Lia Rowing Club—Our Stay at Hainburg and Excursions in the Neighborhood—Theben, the Frontier Town of Hungary—A Model Postmaster | 102 |
| CHAPTER IX |
| Pressburg and the River below—Monotony of Landscape and our Introduction to Dust and Mud—Gran; Its Situation and Attractions—VisegrÁd—Our Hospitable Reception—General GÖrgei—Our Reluctant Parting—Approach to Budapest—The First Accident to the Fleet—The Neptune Club—Gypsy Music | 119 |
| CHAPTER X |
| Budapest almost our Capua—The Bridges and Baths—The Great Hungarian Plain—Cheery River Folk—Duna FÖldvÁr—A Surprise Picnic and a Severe Storm—In the Heart of Hungary—MohÁcs and a Veteran of Two Wars—Tokay and Patriotic Sentiments | 133 |
| CHAPTER XI |
| The Franzens Canal between the Danube and the Theiss—A Heterogeneous Population—MonostorszÉg and a Peasants’ Dance—Curious Types and Costumes—A Spectacular Sunday—First Signs of Oriental Life | 151 |
| CHAPTER XII |
| A Watermelon Metropolis—Our Fleet taken for Torpedo-boats—A Gypsy Queen—Peterwardein and Carlowitz—Busy Life on the Banks—In Sight of Belgrade—Evening in Camp—The Servian Frontier—Semlin and Belgrade—Oriental Characteristics and Modern Improvements—A Sculptor’s Paradise—An Unexpected Encounter | 164 |
| CHAPTER XIII |
| Semendria and its Great Castle—Our Passports are Useless—Bazias and the Entrance to the Carpathians—The Emperor’s Birthday on a Gunboat—Castle of GolubÁÇ—Drenkova and the First Rapids—Escape from a Whirlpool and a Dash through the Cataracts | 184 |
| CHAPTER XIV |
| Improvements to Navigation—Rapids of the Jur—The Kasan Defile—Remarkable River Scenery—Trajan’s Tablet and Old Roman Roadway—Orsova and the Herkulesbad—Ada Kaleh, the Turkish Settlement—The Iron Gates—The Danube and the Ister—Origin of the Name of the Danube—We Lose our Admiral—The Iron Gates—
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