————?———— | PAGE | | Preface, | x | I.
CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING. | | Former and Present Times—Bugbears—Language—Passports—Impedimenta—Guide-Books—Hotels—Money and Exchange—Routes to Paris—Cook’s and Gaze’s Railway Tickets—Voyages circulaires—Supplementary Billets—Customs Examination—Time—Railway Arrangements—Billets—Salle d’attente—Guards and Porters—Carriages—Dames seules—Smoking—Carriage Windows—Speed—Train Peculiarities—Stations—Omnibuses—Petite vitesse, | 1 | II.
HOTEL AND PENSION LIFE. | | Hotels—Railway Results—Construction—Lifts—Charges—Bougies—Service—Rooms—Meals—Breakfast—Lunch—Table-d’hÔte Dinner—Supplies—Wine—Dining À la Carte—Foreign Practices—Life at Table—Pension—Charges—Extras—Fires—Gratuities—Bills—Cook’s and Gaze’s Coupons—Amusements—Tarantella Dance—Remuneration to Performers—Charades—Readings—Plays—Amateur Performances—Musical Bands—Furnished Villas—Cost—Servants, | 43 | III.
LOCAL MEANS OF CONVEYANCE. | | Private Carriages—Horses—Carriages for Hire—Whip-Cracking—Cruelty to Horses—Italian Cabs and Cabmen—Horse Bells—Fares—Pour boire and buona mano—Drives beyond Town—Crossing Swiss Passes—Diligences—Steamboat Travelling—Omnibuses—Tramways, | 82 | IV.
POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS. | | Post Rates for Letters—Underpaid Letters—Newspapers—Registration—Letters for Interior—Post Cards—Delivery—Poste restante—Pillars—Postmen, | 98 | V.
SUNDAY ABROAD. | | As observed by Natives—English Influence—Public Music—Museums, etc.—Carnival—FÊtes—Elections—Post Delivery—Dinner—Evening Engagements—Sunday Books—Roman Catholic Service—Protestantism—Native Protestant Churches—France—Mentone—Italy—Switzerland—Protestant Churches for English—Presbyterian—The Chapels—Ministers—English Episcopal—Ritualism abroad—Hours of Service—Growing Liberality of Feeling—A Practical Suggestion—Conclusion of Service, | 105 |
FIRST WINTER IN THE RIVIERA. VI.
LONDON TO SOUTH OF FRANCE. | | Folkestone—Passage—Paris—Railway Journey from Paris—Fontainebleau—Dijon—Macon—The Rhone—Avignon—Nimes—Marseilles, | 127 | VII.
CANNES. | | Arrival—Description of Cannes—The Bays—Estrelles—Grasse—Lord Brougham—Duke of Vallombrosa’s Villa—the Eucalyptus—Croix de Garde—Promenade—Bathing Places—Drains—Garden of the Hesperides—Arbutus—Croisette—California—S. Marguerite—Fort Monterey—Use of Marble—Mosquitoes, Snakes, and Lizards, | 144 | VIII.
NICE. | | Cannes to Nice—Appearance of—The Chateau—The Paillon Torrent Bed—Nice as a Health Resort—Hotels and Public Places—Nice to Mentone, | 159 | IX.
MENTONE. | | First Impression—Old Town—Mountain Shelter—West Bay—Tideless Sea—Drains—Olive Terraces—Valleys—Rivers—Rurality—Quarters—Doctors—The Hotels—Pension Charges—Furnished Houses or Rooms—Helvetia—Churches—School and Classes—Public Institutions—Newspapers—Guide-Books—Mentone by Night—Donkey Excursions—Castellar—Rain and Storm—Gorge of St. Louis—The Carrei Valley—View from Bridge—Boirigo Valley—St. Agnes—Castle—Monastery of S. Annunciata and Chapel—The Gorbio Valley—Gorbio—Rochebrune—Cape Martin—Red Rocks and Caves—The Fossil Skeleton—Hanging Gardens—Belinda—Grimaldi—Promenade du Midi—Life on the Promenade—French Attire and Customs—Monte Carlo—Gaming Tables—the Garden—Pigeon-shooting—Monaco—Mentone Villas—Gardens—Shops—Circulating Libraries—Industrial Occupations—Washing Clothes—Fishing—Sheep-keeping—Donkey-letting—Woodwork—Town and Rural Labourers—Animal Labour—Birds—Mosquitoes—Deaths—Funerals—Cemetery—the Evenings—Red-letter Days—Christmas Day—New, Year’s Day—Conscription Day—Carnival—Corsica—Weather during Winter, | 166 |
ITALY. X.
SAN REMO AND GENOA. | | Cross Frontier—The douane—Ventimiglia—Bordighera—San Remo—Climate—San Remo described—Excursions—Hotels and Pensions—Visitors—Doctors—Churches—Industries-The Women—Photographs—San Remo to Genoa—Italian Money—Fares—Coast Towns—Savona—Pegli—Genoa—Position and Appearance—Statue of Columbus—Hotel Rooms—Drive through Town—S. Maria di Carignano—The Streets—Palaces—Churches—Public Park—Campo Santo, | 237 | XI.
SPEZIA, PISA, SIENNA. | | Railway to Spezia—Hotel—Cold Weather—Spezia, a Summer Place—Described—Carrara Marble Quarries—Pisa—Leaning Tower—Cathedral Baptistery—Campo Santo—The Town—Drive to Lucca—Sienna—Position—Collegio Tolomei—Cathedral—Its Library—Frescoes—Piazza Vittorio Emanuele—Town Hall and other Places—Citadel—Italian Soldiers, | 263 | XII.
ROME. | | Quarters—Piazza di Spagna—Carriages—The seeing Rome—First Sunday—Scotch Church—Castle of St. Angelo—St. Peter’s—Piazza—Interior—Apostle Peter in Rome—St. Peter’s Aisles and Altars—Mosaics—Ascent of Dome—Palm Sunday—The Vatican—Sculptures—Pictures—Sistine Chapel—Preliminary Drive through Town—The Streets, Buildings, etc.—Lecturers on Rome—The Colosseum—Rome’s Birthday Illuminations—Arches of Constantine and Titus—Old Roman Roads—Forum Romanum—The Capitol—Church of Ara Coeli—The Museums—Palatine Hill—Palace of the CÆsars—Temple of Vesta—Cloaca Maxima—Monumental Pillars, Trajan’s—M. Aurelius—The Obelisks—Aqueducts—Baths of Caracalla—Columbaria—Catacombs of Callixtus—Appian Way—The Churches—Pantheon—S. Pietro in Vincoli—Jesuit Church—Capuccini—S. Clemente—SS. Cosma e Damiano—The Lateran—Santa Scala—S. Maria Maggiore—S. Paolo fuori le mura—The Palaces—Contents of Galleries—Engravings and Photographs of Pictures—Copying Pictures—The Rospigliosi—Guido’s Aurora—The Barberini—Beatrice Cenci—Other Galleries and Studios—The Royal Palace—Borghese Grounds and Casino—Pincian Hill Gardens—Drive to Tivoli—The Campagna—Hadrian’s Villa—Tivoli—S. Lorenzo fuori le mura—Shop Purchases—Photographs—Mosaic Jewellery—Bronzes—Copies of Paintings—Old Rome as it was, | 275 | XIII.
NAPLES, POMPEII, SORRENTO. | | Naples, Drive through—Cabs and Cabmen—Population—Thieving—Bay of Naples—Town described—Cathedral—Hotels—Museum—Chiaja—Aquarium—Photographs—Bijouterie—Castellamare—Pompeii—Museum—Excavations—Old City—Public Buildings—Private Dwellings—Streets—Shops—Sorrento—Excursions—Capri Blue Grotto—Sorrento Woodwork—Beggars—Return to Naples—Puteoli—Amphitheatre—Solfatara, | 322 | XIV.
FLORENCE AND BOLOGNA. | | Florence—Situation—Lung’Arno—Florence described—Bridges—S. Miniato—Piazza Michel Angelo—Fiesole—The Streets—Cascine—Historical Associations—Churches—Cathedral—Campanile—Baptistery—Misericordia—S. Croce—Chapel and Tombs of the Medici—Museum of S. Marco—S. Spirito—Piazza della Signoria—Loggia—Palazzo Vecchio—House of Michael Angelo—Uffizi Gallery—Pitti Gallery—Artists copying—National Museum—Palazzo Corsini—Academia delle Belle Arti—Association for Encouragement of Fine Arts—Florentine Marbles and Mosaics—Italian Lungs—Bologna—Drive through Town—Leaning Towers—Museum and Library—S. Petronio—Villa Reale—Campo Santo—S. Domenico—S. Pietro—Academia delle Belle Arti, | 343 | XV.
VENICE AND VERONA. | | Venice—Railway Station—Hotel Danieli—Bridge of Sighs—S. Marco—The Presbyterio—Clock Tower—Piazza and its Shops—Venetian Glass—Gondola—Island of S. Georgio—La Guidica—Churches of Venice—Palaces—Doge’s Palace—S. Marco—Whitsunday—Mosaics—Campanile—Ponte di Rialto—Museo Correr—Academia delle Belle Arti—Arsenal—Lido—Moonlight—Is Venice healthy? Grand Canal—Verona—Drive through Town—Market-Place—Piazza dei Signori—Tombs of Scaligers—Arena—S. Zenone—Other Churches—Tomb and Window of Juliet, | 361 | XVI.
MILAN AND THE ITALIAN LAKES. | | Milan—Cathedral—Ceremonies—Ascent—Piazza—Galleria—Drive about Town—Piazza d’Armi—Arco della Pace—Amphitheatre—S. Ambrogio—S. Lorenzo—Public Park—Novel Mode of Watering—Temperature—Italian Lakes—Arona—Maggiore—Baveno—Lugano—S. Salvatore—Luini’s Frescoes—Bellaggio—Hotel Grand Bretagne—Lake Como—Villa Serbelloni—Villa Carlotta—Villa Melzi—Sail to Como—St. Giovanni—Hot Days, | 380 |
SWITZERLAND—FRANCE. XVII.
THE SPLUGEN PASS, SWITZERLAND. | | Sail to Colico—Chiavenna—Splugen Pass—Campo Dolcino—Madesimo Fall—Summit of Pass—Descent to Splugen—Switzerland—Splugen—Via Mala—Thusis—Ragatz—PfÄffers Gorge—Lucerne—Interlachen—Run Home—Chateau d’Œx—Sepey—Aigle—Montreux—Geneva, | 401 | XVIII.
BIARRITZ. | | Lyons—Cette—Toulouse—Lourdes—Pau—Bayonne—Biarritz—Railway Station—Hotels—Cold Winds—Recent Origin of Town—Description—The Season—Natural Attractions—Storms—Breakwater—Boating—Rocks—Tide—Drains—Bathing Establishments—Bathing—The Bathers—Dresses—The Scene—Aquatics—Walks—Light-house—Villa Eugenie—Drive to Bayonne—Its Fortifications—Bridges—St. Jean de Luz—Excursion to S. Sebastian, Spain—Season ends, | 415 | XIX.
PAU. | | Imposing Appearance—Pension Colbert—The Season—Climate—Writers on—Rise of Pau—Town—View of Pyrenees—Chateau—Public Park—Environs—Excursions—The Cemetery—French General Election, | 439 | XX.
SECOND WINTER IN THE RIVIERA. | | Pau to Toulouse—Montpellier—Climate—Town—Train to Marseilles—Toulon—HyÈres—Hotels—Climate—Garden—La Plage—HyÈres to Cannes—Mentone—Cold Weather—Improvements—More Building—Political Position in France—Eastern Question—English Position causes Anxiety—Death of Victor Emmanuel and Pope—Services in Cathedral—Carnival—Gaieties—Mentone to S. Remo—S. Remo to Alassio—Alassio—Hotels—Town—Situation—Walks and Views—Dr. Schneer on Climate—Genoa—Via Orifici—Galleria, etc.—Turin—View of Alps from Monastery—The Town—Monuments—Waldensian Church—Mont Cenis Tunnel—Aix les Bains—Return Home, | 450 | |
  |
