CONTENTS

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PART I
COLOMBIA
CHAPTER PAGE
I. Buenaventura to Cali and the Cauca Valley 3
II. PopayÁn and the Cerro Munchique 18
III. The Andes Southwest of PopayÁn; Cruise of the “Caldas” 34
IV. Cartago to the Paramos of Ruiz and Santa Isabel 47
V. The ChocÓ Country on the Western Coast of Colombia 64
VI. In Quest of the Cock-of-the-Rock 76
VII. Crossing the Eastern Andes into the CaquetÁ 92
VIII. Across the Antioquian Gold-Fields to Puerto Valdivia on the Lower Cauca 106
IX. Ascent of the Paramillo—Collecting on the Rio Sucio 120
PART II
VENEZUELA
X. Fifteen Hundred Miles on the Orinoco 141
XI. The Maquiritares’ Land and the Upper Orinoco 162
XII. Life in the Guiana Wilds 180
XIII. First Weeks with the Roosevelt South American Expedition 194
XIV. Hunting Excursions Along the Upper Paraguay 208
XV. A Forty Days’ Ride through Wildest Matto Grosso 223
XVI. The Descent of the Rio Gy-ParanÁ 240
XVII. Down the Coast of Peru—Lake Titicaca and La Paz—Through the Ancient Incan Empire to Cochabamba 265
XVIII. Crossing the Bolivian Highlands from Cochabamba to the ChaparÉ 279
XIX. Among the YuracarÉ Indians of the Rio ChimorÉ 303
XX. The Cactus Forests of Central Bolivia—Cochabamba to Samaipata 321
XXI. A Mule-Back Journey on the Santa Cruz Trail to Sucre 336
XXII. Sucre, the Rio Pilcomayo, and the Upland Desert to the Argentine Frontier 349
XXIII. Bird-Nesting in Northwestern Argentina 365
XXIV. The Chaco—Sugar Plantations and Rice Marshes—A Search for a Rare Bird 378
XXV. Vizcacha-Hunting in an Argentine Desert—Giant Snakes 396
XXVI. The Lake Region of Western Argentina—the Heart of the Wine Country 412
Index 425

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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