It may seem rather supererogatory to speak of "Vegetables" distinctively, for the "unregenorate" will be inclined to declare that we have been discussing nothing else all the while. But for the benefit of such as are like the advertised domestic "willing to learn," I would say that vegetarians as a rule use fresh vegetables practically in the same way as meat eaters do, to supplement more substantial viands. No one—to my knowledge at least—ever dines off the proverbial cabbage or turnip—perhaps it would be better if they did now and then—but, that by the way. But there are vegetables and vegetables. No one who has gone in for the most elementary food reform will tolerate the sodden, soap-like potatoes, or the flabby, insipid, brown papery-looking stuff, called by courtesy cabbage, which so often does duty as companion to beef, mutton, or pork. Perhaps, though, the savoury cow or pig throws a halo over all the defects of its surroundings. Be that as it may, there is need for improvement in many ways, and by this I do not mean more elaboration in dressing or serving, for this is not seldom used to disguise shortcomings which otherwise could not escape notice. But disguising defects does not remove them, and we should do well to safeguard ourselves by having our food cooked as simply and naturally as possible.

The homeliest vegetables, too, if sound, ripe, and wholesome, are infinitely to be preferred to the rare expensive sorts forced out of season or gathered barely ripe and conveyed long distances to whet jaded palates. Well, to begin with that vegetable we are supposed to live on,

Cabbage.

This may either be a choice delicacy or an unmitigated abomination. It should be fresh, green, crisp and tender, and as newly pulled as possible. Those who have gardens should leave it growing till half-an-hour before cooking. When it must be kept for some time, see that it is in a shady, cool place, and an hour or two before using; remove any tough or withered leaves, split up the stalk well into the heart, if to be used whole, and lay in a large basin of cold water. Add a handful of salt and two tablespoonfuls vinegar to each gallon of water. Although freshly pulled all leafy vegetables should be soaked in this way to remove any caterpillars, slugs, &c., for even eaters of pig and ox have a curious objection to animal food on a small scale. To cook, have ready a good-sized saucepan with fast-boiling water containing a little salt, and if the cabbage is at all old or tough, a bit of washing soda the size of a hazel nut, to each quart of water. Drain very thoroughly from the water in which soaking, and plunge into the fast-boiling water. It is most important that the water should not go off the boil as then the juices would be drawn out and wasted. Boil steadily with the lid off for 10 to 20 minutes according to age, then lift into drainer on top of the boiling water and cook till tender in the steam. Serve on hot vegetable dish with some bits of butter on the top. It should be perfectly tender, yet crisp and of a vivid green. If at all brown, or dull, or flabby-looking, there is something wrong, either with the vegetable itself or the cooking. And I am not to give directions for "doctoring" anything that is either unwholesome or spoiled. A paragraph has been going the round of certain papers lately, giving directions for disguising the flavour of tainted meat, which "few cooks know how to treat so as to render perfectly nice"! It is to be wrapped in vinegar cloths, &c.—"boil up, and use it." I should say doctor it as you please, but then—throw it away! If anything, no matter what, goes bad—milk, soup, vegetables—throw it out without hesitation. It is a pity to waste things—and this ought to be prevented by good management—but surely it is much greater waste to use tainted food. Better miss a meal, if need be, than make a refuse bin of our bodies. All this may seem a digression, but I am so thoroughly convinced that a large proportion of the "ills that flesh is heir to"—and we accept the inheritance with a resignation "worthy of a better cause"—is due to unsound or improperly prepared food, that I make no apology. Many people have told me that they daren't touch certain vegetables, and when I have seen these as served by them have cordially agreed with them. The most common error, especially with green vegetables, like

Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Greens, &c.,

which all require much the same treatment, is over-cooking. There seems to be a popular notion, somehow, regarding vegetables, that the more you cook them the better they are, and after all the substance and flavour has been boiled out of them, people wonder how anyone can relish such stuff! Each vegetable should get just the bare amount of cooking necessary, and no more. If they have to wait for some time before serving, stand over boiling water as directed above. Most vegetables may be cooked entirely by

Steaming.

This conserves all their own juices which contain the various valuable natural salts, alkalies, &c., so necessary to health, and which we so vainly try to make up by the addition of crude minerals.

Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes,

and all root vegetables and tubers, are best cooked by steaming. Steamers with perforated bottoms to fit the various sizes of saucepan are now to be had from any ironmonger. A very good way to cook carrots, turnips, and parsnips, is to make up a good white sauce, put in Queen pudding-bowl or some other such dish, lay in the carrots, parsnips, &c. Cover and steam till cooked. If rather old, they may first be par-boiled. This should be done before the skin is removed.

Beetroot

should always be steamed by preference, but quite as much care must be taken not to break any of the fibres, or it will "bleed" as in boiling. When tender, which will take from two to four hours, pare and cut in slices. It may either be dressed with vinegar, lemon juice, &c., to serve cold, or fried and served with white or tomato sauce as a hot vegetable.

Green Peas

may also be steamed in a jar or basin like stewed fruit. A very little water and a little lemon juice should be added. If to be boiled, have a small saucepan with fast boiling water to barely cover, a little sugar, salt, lemon juice, and sprig of mint. Boil fast till tender. Drain and serve with butter only.

French Beans

may be cooked in same way. Remove stalks and "strings" and cut across diamondwise.

Broad Beans, Kidney Beans, &c.,

usually require to have the tough white sloughs removed. To facilitate this, pour boiling water over, when they may be slipped off quite easily. Cook same as green peas.

To Re-heat Peas, &c.,

Put a little butter in saucepan, a finely minced shallot or spoonful grated onion, and some tomato free from skin and seeds. Simmer till cooked, lay in the vegetables to be warmed up. Make thoroughly hot and serve.

Cauliflower.

Trim and lay in cold salt water for some time, then boil or steam till just done. Trim off all the green leaves—it is best not to do this before cooking, as it is not so ready to break—lay in vegetable dish, and pour white sauce over.

Cauliflower au Gratin.

Prepare exactly as above. Coat with the sauce, sprinkle all over with bread crumbs or grated cheese, or a mixture of both, put some butter in little bits over it, and bake a light-brown in moderate oven.

Artichokes.

These may be cooked same as cauliflower, but require longer time. Cut the stalk off quite bare, and trim the leaves with scissors where necessary. By way of variety the centre part may be removed and the cavity filled with forcemeat or sausage filling. Serve with white sauce.

Jerusalem Artichokes.

Wash well, pare neatly, and lay in cold water and vinegar to cover. Have ready some boiling water with a little salt and some milk. Boil gently till tender—15 to 20 minutes. Drain, and serve with white sauce.

Fried Artichokes.

Parboil lightly, dry, dip in beaten egg, then toss in bread crumbs or a mixture of crumbs and grated cheese. Fry in smoking hot fat, and serve very hot on a napkin.

Fried Celery.

Prepare exactly as above. The pieces should be about 5 or 6 inches long.
Pile up crosswise in serving.

Stewed Celery.

Wash and trim the celery into short lengths and allow to soak in vinegar and water for an hour or so before cooking. Drain, and parboil in water containing a little salt and lemon juice or vinegar for 10 minutes. Drain again, and stew for another 10 or 15 minutes in some good white stock. Do not throw away the water in which celery, cauliflower, peas, &c., are boiled. It can be added to the stock-pot. Meantime toast a slice of bread, dip it in this celery water, and lay on ashet cut in triangles. Lay the celery on this when cooked, make the stock in saucepan into a good sauce with flour and butter, and pour over.

Seakale

is rather scarce and expensive as a rule, but it is well to know how to cook it when occasion offers. It is a choice delicacy for an invalid or convalescent. Soak in salted cold water for a time, trim neatly and cook till tender—about half-an-hour in fast boiling water containing a little salt and lemon juice. Drain, and serve on toast with white sauce over.

Asparagus.

Wash well in cold water and scrape the stalks white. Tie in small bundles and stand in fast boiling salted water till the stalks are tender—about twenty minutes. Drain, and serve like celery.

Salsify,

or vegetable oyster, is another vegetable which would find great favour were it not so scarce and dear. Scrape the roots and throw into cold water. Cut in 2-inch pieces and simmer gently for an hour or till tender in stock with a slice of lemon, or in milk and water. Lift out the salsify and place on toast. Thicken the liquor with butter and flour and pour over.

All vegetables which are served with white sauce or melted butter can be acceptably served

Au Gratin,

and a dish of carrots, turnips, and the like served in this way is quite a delicacy. Young tender vegetables are of course always to be preferred, but even when rather old are better this way than any other. Cook till quite tender, but not in the least broken. Lay in a pie dish, cover with sauce, coat thickly with crumbs or cheese and crumbs. Dot over with butter, and bake a light brown.

Spinach.

Soak in cold water and rinse very well to remove all grit, &c. Trim away stalks and tough fibre at the back of the leaf. Shake the water well off, and put in dry saucepan with lid on, to cook for about 10 minutes. Drain, chop finely, and return to saucepan with some butter, salt and pepper, to get quite hot. Dish neatly in a flat, round, or oval shape, with poached eggs on top, and croutons of toast or fried bread round.

Cauliflower—Dutch Way.

(Mr VAN TROMP.)

Boil cauliflower in usual way, drain, and put in vegetable dish. Coat with this sauce:—Make a cream with 2 spoonfuls potato flour, add a little sugar, and stir over fire till it thickens.