Valiant City, martyrised by the War. After sustaining the fire of the enemy's guns for more than two years, experienced in turn the joys of deliverance and the horrors of a brutal occupation. An important position, bitterly disputed, it suffered total destruction, paying with its ruins the Victory of the Mother-land.
(Croix de Guerre.)
The town stands at the extremity of the Plateau of Santerre, halfway between Amiens and CompiÈgne, in the valleys of the Somme and Oise. Rising in tiers, from south to north, on the limestone cliffs, its highest point is occupied by the Palais-de-Justice.
The town probably first grew up around a farm in which, according to tradition, the monks of the Abbey of Corbie kept Didier, King of the Lombards, whose name was given to the town. The first houses sprang up in the fertile valley, whilst a castrum was built on the hill. Owing to its situation on an oft-disputed frontier, Montdidier was destined to have a stirring history. Of the fortifications which Philippe-Auguste caused to be erected there, and which were terminated in 1210, nothing remains but a few fragments of walls covered by the gardens. At various periods the town was besieged, pillaged and burnt.
Under Charles VIII and Louis XII the walls were rebuilt and the city's life began anew, only to be disturbed again by war under FranÇois I. After repulsing a band of adventurers in 1522, it was besieged in 1523 by 30,000 English and Germans, led by the Duke of Norfolk and Count de Bure. Although a breach was opened in the city's walls, the burghers refused to capitulate. The place had therefore to be carried by storm, and the enemy burnt it on October 29.
Montdidier.—The St. MÉdard Quarter.
Montdidier, seen from the Moreuil Road.
After the town had been rebuilt, the Reform quickly gained ground, in spite of persecutions and the burning of Pastor Michel de la Grange.
In 1636, a powerful Spanish army, under the command of Jean de Werth and Piccolomini, captured Roye and summoned Montdidier to surrender. The burghers refused and, almost unsupported, kept the enemy at bay and made a number of successful sorties. A narrow valley on the road to Breteuil has retained the name of "cut-throat", in remembrance of one of these sorties, during which 200 Spaniards were slain. After a siege lasting 34 days, the approach of the Royal Army compelled the Spaniards to retreat, and Louis XIII thanked the burghers in person for their courage and loyalty.
From that time forward the town lived in peace. Louis XIV often stayed there on his way to Flanders.
On March 19, 1814, the Cossacks, coming from Roye, entered the town.
The next day a large detachment of Cossacks and Prussian Hussars, infantry and artillery, under the Russian Baron de Geismar, took possession and exacted heavy requisitions in kind.
The Cossacks bivouacked in the streets, with their horses in full harness, and cooked their food in the open. An attack by the combined garrisons of Amiens and Beauvais on March 24 drove out the Cossacks, but the latter returned on the 27th, with the intention of plundering and burning the town. In response to a petition from the chief citizens, Baron de Geismar consented not to burn the town, but allowed his soldiers to pillage it for one hour. On the 28th, the Cossacks withdrew towards CompiÈgne, to join the Allies in their march on Paris.
Montdidier, photographed from an aeroplane.
On the left: The Three-Doms Stream, crossed by the road followed by the itinerary (see p. 98);
In the middle: Place de l'HÔtel-de-Ville; On the right: Place Faidherbe and the CompiÈgne road.
Panoramic view to the West and South of Montdidier
seen from the Esplanade du PrieurÉ.
After Easter, the Prussians held the garrison at Montdidier and in 1815 a Prussian garrison occupied the town for three months.
On October 15, 1870, the Prussians again appeared before Montdidier, held only by a few regular troops and some National Guards.
After a short bombardment, which caused the death of several citizens, the Prussians entered the town.
Chapel built by the soldiers in the ruins of Montdidier.
Saving the town records of Montdidier.
The roads to be followed are shown by thick lines.
MONTDIDIER IN 1918.
Of Montdidier, hardly anything remains but ruins, caused by the terrible battles fought around the town in March-August 1918.
From the end of Rue du CollÈge, there is a fine view of the whole battlefield: Mesnil-St-Georges and Fontaine-sous-Montdidier to the west; Courtemanche and Framicourt to the north-west; Gratibus, Pierrepont and Contoire to the north, and Ayencourt and Monchel to the south.
The German offensive—March 27.
On March 27, the German hordes were held on the French right, but overran the plain on the left, where the lack of natural defences made resistance more difficult. The front-line there was very thin, and the Germans captured Cessier and Tilloloy.
The French 22nd I.D. fell back on Bus, then lost this village and the neighbouring woods. For two hours, the enemy were unable to debouch, being held in check mainly by the fire of batteries in Marotin Wood. Near by, the 22nd Territorials, with a squadron of divisional artillery and two companies of engineers, were thrown into the battle. Fighting stubbornly against odds of ten to one, they retreated only step by step. The Germans advanced only with very heavy loss, and they had scarcely entered Marotin Wood when a concentration of artillery fire scattered them.
Held before the massif of Boulogne-la-Grasse, they wedged themselves in between the latter and Montdidier. There was a gap here between the left of Humbert's Army and Debeney's right, then being brought up, and of which only a part, i. e. the 56th Division (Demetz) had taken up its positions. This division, with the 5th Cavalry Division (De la Tour) and two battalions of the 97th Territorials, had to defend a twelve-mile front, extending from Pierrepont to the outskirts of Roye. Attacks by three German Divisions, supported by a powerful artillery, were repulsed.
Throughout the morning, the 69th Battalion of Chasseurs fought along the Echelle-St.-Aurin-Dancourt-Grivillers line. The latter village only fell at 12.45 p.m.
After the capture of Erches and Saulchoy the 65th Battalion of Chasseurs held the enemy in check for some time on the Guerbigny line, but on being attacked on the flank by enemy forces which had crossed the Avre beyond Guerbigny, they were compelled to fall back, but only after inflicting very heavy losses on the enemy. This withdrawal brought about that of the 49th Battalion, above Becquigny.
Before Marquivillers, two battalions of the 105th line Regt. held their ground for a long time, and withdrew only after being overwhelmed. Fighting rearguard actions, they fell back on the crest south of LigniÈres, then to the plateau east of Etelfay. A battalion of the 132nd line Regt., which had been unable to reach Fescamps, fought with the Territorials of the 97th between Piennes and Forestil Farm. At 3 p.m., a battalion of the 132nd was thrown against Etelfay which had been captured by the Germans, thus enabling two battalions of the 106th and one of the 132nd to reform on the plateau to the west, where they kept the enemy in check until 6.30 p.m.
South of Montdidier, the enemy advanced rapidly towards Rollot and Rubescourt.
The defence of Montdidier was abandoned, and the enemy entered the town at 6.30 p.m. The 56th I.D. and the 5th Cav. Div. reformed to the west of Montdidier and the Avre, without losing a single gun.
The Enemy's Advance held.
In the evening, the French held the line: Ayencourt, Mesnil-St.-Georges, Gratibus, Pierrepont and Contoire. General de Mitry (6th Corps) gave orders to hold at all costs the line of hills which dominate the Three-Doms stream on the west, between Pierrepont and Domfront. The 56th Div. defended the line Framicourt, north of Courtemanche and Domfront.
March 28.
On the morning of the 28th, the German 9th Div. entered Courtemanche, Framicourt and Fontaine-sous-Montdidier, scattered the units of Engineers who were holding the road to Mesnil, then occupied Mesnil, Ayencourt and Monchel.
The 56th Div. immediately counter-attacked. While a battalion of the 132nd Regt. recaptured Fontaine-sous-Montdidier, and the 65th Batn. of Chasseurs advanced in the wood and on the hill near Mesnil, the 3rd Batn. of the 132nd, supported by a Batn. of the 350th, drove back the enemy to Mesnil and Monchel, and carried these villages. On the right, General Humbert's Army recaptured Assainvillers.
March 29.
On the 29th, the 56th Div. received orders to advance as far as the railway, between Courtemanche and Monchel. The attack was launched at 6 p.m., at the very moment chosen by the enemy for their own attack. The fighting at once became very desperate. On the left, a company of the 69th Batn. of Chasseurs succeeded in entering Framicourt, but was overwhelmed and partly taken prisoners. The 49th Batn. of Chasseurs, after advancing as far as the Chapelle de St. Pierre, west of Courtemanche, was outflanked and forced to withdraw beyond Fontaine-sous-Montdidier. The 65th Batn. of Chasseurs and the 3rd Batn. of the 132nd Regt. progressed to the east of Mesnil, as far as Hill 97, but were decimated by a violent artillery and machine-gun barrage, and had to fall back.
March 30.
At dawn, on the 30th, after a violent artillery preparation, a fresh German attack was launched. To the north, in front of Fontaine-sous-Montdidier and Hill 104, the 49th Batn. of Chasseurs, supported by units of the 54th Regt., repulsed seven assaults.
Two German air-squadrons having swept the French lines with machine-gun fire, the attack was renewed with fresh troops, but without result. At 3.45 p.m., a new attack by strong enemy columns succeeded in turning the exhausted French forces on both flanks. To avoid being surrounded, the French fell back on the crest east of Villers-Tournelle, and clung desperately to their new positions. On that day, they threw over 1,500 grenades and fired over 50,000 cartridges. From Mesnil to Royaucourt, the battle was equally desperate. The German 9th Division had orders to push forward as far as Elevation 136, i. e. 2½ kms. south-west of Royaucourt.
In front of Mesnil, the French 106th Regt. broke four attacks in the morning, but at about 5 p.m., the French left having given way under a terrific bombardment, the Germans reached the northern outskirts of the village. The French only abandoned the village, in flames, at 6.30 p.m., taking up fresh positions 200-300 yards in the rear.
Montdidier. Rue Becquerel. (See p. 98.)
On the right, the Germans took Monchel and Ayencourt, but were unable to debouch, which prevented them from reaching the south-western outskirts of Mesnil and the approaches to Royaucourt.
At 7 p.m., a counter-attack by units of the 153rd Regt., a batn. of cavalry on foot, a section of armoured-cars, and a group of artillery took the enemy by surprise. Ayencourt and Monchel were recaptured, and the French line advanced from Monchel to Hill 98.
Exhausted by their efforts and heavy losses, the enemy now consolidated their slight gains.
The French 56th Div. had fought unceasingly for five days and lost the greater part of its effective strength, but had fixed the enemy.
Montdidier. Rue Becquerel in 1919.
Liberating Montdidier.
The front on August 8th. (morning) and 10th (evening).
The Liberation on Montdidier. (August 8-10, 1918.).
During the following months the enemy remained on their positions, the sector being disturbed only by local attacks and raids on either side. In the region of Mesnil-St.-Georges, held mainly by the 60th Div., the extreme German right broke down during the offensive of June 9 against the resistance of the French. In front of a single company of the 248th line Regiment, over 200 German dead were counted.
On August 1, the enemy made many unsuccessful efforts in the neighbourhood of Mesnil. From August 3, the French progressed slowly to the east of the village, and prepared starting positions for Debeney's offensive of August 8. On the 4th the Germans, sensing the coming attack, abandoned part of their positions. The French occupied Braches, gained a footing in Hargicourt, and reached Courtemanche.
On August 8, the 3rd Div. of the 9th Corps crossed the Avre to the north, captured and enlarged the bridgehead of Neuville-Sire-Bernard and occupied the western outskirts of Contoire and Hamel. The 9th Corps was then replaced by the 10th, the three divisions of which were in the line: the 152nd and 166th behind the Doms stream, and the 60th in front of Montdidier. On the morning of the 9th the 152nd Div., instead of attempting to cross the marshy stream, inclined to the left, crossed at Neuville-Sire-Bernard, and thus enabled the 166th Div. to force the passage by a frontal attack opposite Gratibus. While the 126th and 153rd Div. carried Hangest village and plateau, the 152nd Div. advanced to Contoire and Pierrepont. The 166th Div., which had met with great difficulty in crossing the Doms stream, was unable to gain a footing on the plateau to the east. Montdidier, already outflanked from the north, was now being turned from the south. General Debeney rapidly transferred his artillery from his left to his right, and began a new attack. The 60th Div. advanced against Montdidier, and the 169th made a north-easterly thrust towards Faverolles, to cut the Montdidier-Roye road, the enemy's main line of retreat. The 133rd Div. attacked eastwards, to mask the massif of Boulogne-la-Grasse and cover the flank of the offensive. Behind followed the 46th Div. and 2nd Cavalry Corps, in readiness to exploit any gains.
German prisoners
passing through Montdidier (1918)
Montdidier.
Building a bridge in front of the station.
The attack was a complete success. In the evening, from Faverolles to Piennes, Montdidier was turned from the south. Assainvillers, Piennes and Faverolles were recaptured, and the enemy fell back along the Montdidier-Andechy road, which their desperate resistance before Gratibus had enabled them to keep open. During the night they evacuated Montdidier in the greatest confusion. While the French were entering the town, which was entirely in their possession by noon on the 10th, the whole of Debeney's forces thrust eastwards: the 47th and 56th Div. advanced to the east of Villers-les-Roye, the 166th from Gratibus to LigniÈres, the 60th to the outskirts of Dancourt, the 46th to the east of Tilloloy, the 133rd to the north-east of Fescamps, and the 169th to before Cessier. Montdidier was now largely cleared.
The roads to be followed are indicated by thick lines and arrows.
A VISIT TO MONTDIDIER.
Abutting on the Esplanade du PrieurÉ is the Benedictines' Priory which, before the war, was a college. Opposite is the Palais-de-Justice. These two buildings suffered severely from the bombardments.
The Palais-de-Justice was built on the site of the old ChÂteau of the Counts of Montdidier. The entrance was all that remained of the ChÂteau at the beginning of the 14th century. The remains of this door were used in the construction of the building known as the Salle du Roy.
Montdidier. The Palais-de-Justice. (1919.)
The Salle du Roy is built over a vaulted passage, situated opposite the Esplanade du PrieurÉ. To the west, an imposing gable rises above the cliffs, its thick walls reinforced in the centre by an enormous buttress, at the northern corner by a smaller buttress, and at the southern corner by an octagonal turret.
The Palais-de-Justice in 1917.
The entrance to the Palais-de-Justice is below the vaulted passage. On the first story, the Entrance Hall and the corridor leading to the Audience Chamber were decorated with six large Brussels tapestries, believed to be work of Henry Reydams (17th century). Made originally for the town of Douai, they were taken from the ChÂteau of FerriÈres—pulled down in 1809—in the Department of Oise. The subjects, taken from the Book of Exodus, depicted: The Crossing of the Red Sea; the Hebrews glorifying God; Gathering Manna; Moses striking the Rock; Making the Golden Calf; Worshipping the Golden Calf. The 1st, 3rd and 4th were faithful reproductions of tapestries in the Cathedral of Chartres, said to have been made after drawings by Raphael.
The Tomb of Raoul de CrÉpy.
The other public buildings of Montdidier stood in the main road which divides the town from north to south into two unequal parts. The first of these was the Church of St. Pierre (Hist. Mon.) reached by passing under the archway of the Palais-de-Justice and following Rue St. Pierre.
The interior of St. Peter's Church.
Of this church hardly anything remains except the walls and dÉbris. Portions of the building were 14th century, but most of it dated from the 16th century. The tower, now in ruins, was added in 1742. The doorway was the most remarkable part of the building. The plans were the work of Chaperon (1538), the master-mason of Beauvais Cathedral. The style is a combination of flamboyant Gothic (central dividing pillar, archways, springing of the archways, and niches with socle and canopy at the base of the main pillars), and Renaissance (voluted niches and trefoiled bell-turrets, at the top of the pillars). At the top of the accolade-shaped arch was a shield bearing the arms of France, surrounded by St. Michael's collar, the three crescents of Henri II, and a monogram combining the "H" of Henri II, the double "D" of Diane de Poitiers, and the double "C" of Catherine de MÉdicis. The side-walls of the church are sustained by buttresses. In accordance with a custom fairly common in Picardy, each bay of the side-aisles had its own separate roof forming a right-angle with that of the great nave. The interior, with its three naves, massive pillars and low 15th century vaulting—lower at the choir end than near the doorway—appeared somewhat heavy in style.
Montdidier Cemetery (north-east of the town). See Itinerary, p. 98.
(At the end of Rue de Roye, which comes out into Place de l'HÔtel-de-Ville. See p. 98).]
At the bottom of the left aisle, a reclining statue was said to depict Count Raoul de CrÉpy, and to have formed part of the tomb which the Count had built in the 11th century, while still alive. This statue escaped destruction during the Revolution, and was deposited in the church in 1862. As a matter of fact, it probably dates from the 13th or 14th century, and does not represent Raoul de CrÉpy.
In the adjoining chapel is a Burial Scene comprising seven figures grouped around that of Christ. As in the Tomb of St. Germain-les-FossÉs at Amiens, Mary Magdalene occupies the centre of the group, whereas this place is usually reserved for the Virgin.
The font (probably 11th. century) is the oldest known specimen of the type used in Picardy between the 11th and 16th centuries. The low, square basin rests on five supports, the principal one being in the centre, the other four lesser columns at the corners. The columns, originally in stone, were replaced in the course of time by wooden ones. A belt ornamented with eight heads of rather primitive design runs round the basin. The rest of the decoration, much defaced, includes two entwined heads, grapes, and doves drinking out of a vase.
The tomb, said to be that of Raoul de CrÉpy, the "Burial Scene" and the font are believed to lie buried under the dÉbris.
The organ loft, composed of the remains of fine Renaissance wood carving of uncertain origin, was destroyed.
Keep along Rue St. Pierre to Place de la Croix-Bleue, in which stood the Statue of Parmentier (by Malknecht), erected in 1848. Only the pedestal remains. Parmentier, who introduced and popularized potato growing in France, was a native of Montdidier.
The Statue of Parmentier (1914).
The Statue of Parmentier and a corner of the town, in 1919
looking towards St. Peter's Church, seen behind. Tourists follow the road on the left.
Rue de la Croix-Bleue leads to Place de l'HÔtel-de-Ville. On the right stands the modern HÔtel-de-Ville which replaced the old Louis XIII building and a Renaissance house on its right. The automaton bell-striker of the old tower, known as Jean Duquesne, which used to strike the hours with a hammer, was erected on the top of the new belfry.
Montdidier.—The Hotel-de-Ville.
Rue Parmentier is next reached, at the entrance to which is the 16th century Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Montdidier.—Rue Parmentier and the Church of St. Sepulchre (1914).
Its modern flamboyant Gothic doorway replaced the old portal which, jutting out in front of the church, was ornamented with a hanging garden. On this side, the square tower of the belfry only is ancient. The five-sided chevet overlooks the small court of the presbytery.
The interior comprises a central and two side naves. Only the vaulting of the choir remains.
The Church of St. Sepulchre in 1919.
Church of St. Sepulchre, the Chancel.
The interior of the Church of St. Sepulchre.
(Seen from the Chancel, near the Porch).
At the end of the right aisle is an Entombment (1549-1582), a gift of the De Baillon family. The Tomb, which was protected during the war, comprises The Burial Scene and an Ecce Homo at the top of the arch over the former. The latter group was finished long before the other one, and is more natural and of finer finish than that of the Tomb. The figures kneeling at the praying-desks on the front of the Tomb represent Pierre de Baillon and his wife, Marguerite de la MorliÈre. At the other end of the right aisle stood the baptismal font (1539), mutilated and covered with whitewash in 1870. The church of La BoissiÈre possesses an identical font dating from the same period, but much better preserved. The font probably lies buried under the dÉbris. In the font chapel there is a stone bas-relief (protected during the war), said to have come from the old church. It was consecrated to the Virgin, who is seen receiving the benediction of the Eternal Father. The carvings and inscriptions around the Virgin, symbolically recalling the principal episodes in her life, are taken from the Song of Solomon. Unfortunately, this bas-relief was daubed over in 1870, and some of the carvings, particularly Les trois enfants qui pissent, were mutilated because of their realism.
Montdidier.—The lower town, seen through a shell-hole
in the Church of St. Sepulchre.
Go down Rue Parmentier, then turn left into Boulevard BÉjot, in the direction of CompiÈgne.
From Montdidier to Cuvilly,
via Assainvillers, Piennes, Rollot, Boulogne-la-Grasse, Conchy-les-Pots
and Orvillers-Sorel.
Follow Boulevard BÉjot, then take Boulevard de CompiÈgne, on the right, and a little further on, N. 35, also on the right, to Assainvillers, entirely razed. Take the second road on the left and cross the light railway, 0 km. 700 beyond which are several lines of trenches. Take the left-hand street, which leads straight to the church and village of Piennes. (See sketch-map below.)
Piennes.
Map.
The church of Piennes (Hist. Mon.) dating from the end of the 15th or beginning of the 16th century, was a remarkable structure.
The tierce-point doorway comprised two round-arched bays, with a blind Flamboyant tympanum. The dividing pillar was surmounted by a statue of the Virgin resting on a crescent.
Between the doorway and the buttresses framing it, an elaborate Gothic canopy sheltered an empty niche on either side. The front of each buttress was ornamented with a niche under a Gothic canopy containing mutilated statues of St. Catherine and St. Marguerite.
The side-aisles were very picturesque with their live gables and five separate roofs at right-angles to that of the great nave.
The vaulting is said to have been designed by Jean Vaast, one of the architects of Beauvais Cathedral. The pretty 16th century font was ornamented with angels' heads and fantastic figures arranged alternately and linked together by festoons of leaves. The remarkable churchwardens' bench of carved wood in Renaissance style was one of the finest in the DÉpartement of the Somme. The wood-work of the pulpit dated from the same period and was in the same style.
The church was almost entirely destroyed in 1918, but a portion of the doorway and a buttress with a niche still remain. The gables of the side-aisles, three of which have retained their roofing, are still standing. The font near the entrance, on the left, is partly hidden under the dÉbris. The pulpit was destroyed by the falling tower and vaulting.
Leave Piennes and pass through the hamlet of Le Lundi. Trenches may be seen alongside the railway. Take the Montdidier-CompiÈgne road on the left to Rollot, where Antoine Gallant, the Oriental writer and translator of the French version of "The Arabian Nights", was born in 1646. Of the monument erected to his memory in the village, only the pedestal remains.
The road from Rollot to Boulogne-la-Grasse.
On leaving Rollot, take G.C. 27 on the left; the Chateau of Bains, in the woods skirting the road on the left, was greatly damaged during the fighting. Keep straight on to the church of Boulogne-la-Grasse.
Boulogne-la-Grasse.
Boulogne-la-Grasse is situated on the top and along the middle slopes of a kind of small broken massif. Before the War, the village consisted of a number of independant quarters intersected by picturesque, winding streets, the whole hidden from view by gardens and orchards.
Boulogne-la-Grasse.—The ruined Church.
The Choir of the above Church.
The church, access to which is gained by a flight of 34 steps, overlooks the main street. The choir alone is ancient.
Take the street on the left of the church, then the first on the left which leads to the top of the massif overlooking the village.
The moats surrounding the site of the old fortified ChÂteau are still visible. The latter was replaced by a modern ChÂteau, now in ruins.
The telegraph-station, which used to stand on the top of the hill, to the west of the village, was destroyed by the Prussians in 1814.
Boulogne-la-Grasse Chateau (1914).
The Courtyard of the Chateau (1918).
From here, there is a fine panorama of the battlefield. On March 27, 1918, the Germans attacked Boulogne and the villages to the east, i. e. Conchy-les-Pots, Roye-sur-Matz, and Canny-sur-Matz, held by part of the French 38th Division which had been brought up to reinforce the 62nd Division, seriously depleted by several days' fighting. The Germans captured Boulogne and Conchy, but the next day (28th), the French counter-attacked and retook both villages. Having, after two unsuccessful assaults, gained a footing in Canny-sur-Matz, the enemy launched repeated violent counter-attacks against Conchy and Boulogne, reoccupying the former, but recapturing only part of the latter. On the 29th, the French progressed beyond Boulogne and again reached the outskirts of Conchy without, however, being able to capture Canny or dislodge the Germans from the eastern part of Boulogne. That night, Boulogne was crushed by the French artillery and made practically untenable, but on the 30th, the German offensive, debouching from Conchy, drove back the French who were occupying the massif. During the following months, the Germans organized a line of support in this region known as the "Rheinlandstellung". General Humbert's offensive of August 10, freed the entire massif. The same evening the line ran through Orvillers, Boulogne-la-Grasse, La Poste, north of Conchy, through Conchy-les-Pots and the railway-station of Roye-sur-Matz. On the 11th, in spite of fierce counter-attacks, the French reached the wood north of La Poste, Hill 81 to the east of Roye-sur-Matz, and the outskirts of Canny and La BerliÈre. On the following days, their advance definitely freed the region. Canny was re-occupied on the 17th.
Return to the church, keeping straight on as far as the first road on the left (G.C. 27) which leads to Conchy-les-Pots. Before reaching this village, a Franco-German cemetery will be seen on the right. A little further on, turn left. At the fork, the left-hand road leads to the ruins of the parish church dating from the 11th (square choir), 12th and 15th centuries. The church was practically razed. The road on the right leads to the St. Nicaise Chapel, situated immediately beyond the light railway. This chapel contained fine 15th or 16th century stained-glass windows, depicting the story of St. Nicaise, which were placed in safety during the War.
Conchy-les-Pots, at the crossroads of Boulogne-la-Grasse.
Conchy-les-Pots, a corner of the ruins.
Return to the entrance to the village. By G.C. 27, on the left, tourists may proceed to Roye-sur-Matz, whose church (Hist. Mon.) was partly 12th century. It was rebuilt in the 16th-17th centuries, except the doorway, nave, northern transept and tower which were in a remarkably good state of preservation. Previous to the offensives of 1918, the church had been for three years in the firing line, and was seriously damaged between 1914 and 1917. Its ruin was completed in 1918. A few fragments of walls belonging to the chevet are all that remain.
Roye-sur-Matz.—The Church.
From Roye-sur-Matz return to Conchy-les-Pots, where take the left-hand (paved) N. 17 to Orvillers-Sorel. On the left, between Conchy-les-Pots and Orvillers-Sorel, is the village of Biermont, which was desperately defended by the French 62nd Division on March 30, 1918.
Orvillers-Sorel Church in Ruins.
This district suffered severely from the fierce fighting of March-August 1918. On March 30 two German divisions, including one of the Guard, attacked Orvillers-Sorel, defended by a portion of the French 38th Div., the 4th Regt. of Zouaves and the 8th Regt. of Tirailleurs, the heroes of Douaumont, Hurtebise and La Malmaison. These two regiments, overwhelmed by numbers, were forced to fall back, but only after desperate fighting. Units of the 4th Regt. of Zouaves, greatly outnumbered and cut off, fought to the last man. Others managed to cut their way through, falling back only to reform and counter-attack, sometimes without an officer. As far as the northern outskirts of Orvillers, the ground was defended, inch by inch, and the enemy were unable to enter the village. During the night, the 4th Regt. of Zouaves reformed in the ruins, and on the following day (31st) counter-attacked between 1.30 and 2.30 p.m., reconquering Epinette Wood and taking a number of prisoners. Until May 3, when they were relieved, they maintained their positions. On April 12 and May 11, the French delivered two local attacks and progressed to the north-west of Orvillers. On May 12 and 14, a German attack against the new positions failed with heavy losses. On August 10, the 34th Corps of Humbert's Army cleared Orvillers-Sorel, and captured the "Gothenstellung", which formed the third main fighting line of the German defences.
Orvillers-Sorel. View of the Village.
Beyond the village, a small chapel is passed, on the right, the tourist coming out opposite Sorel ChÂteau (late 17th century), which stands in a closed park. The ChÂteau was seriously damaged during the attacks.
Take the avenue facing the ChÂteau, which was bordered with trenches, then N. 17 on the left, to Cuvilly.
This village is situated on the old Flanders road, formerly used by the stage-coaches. The latter used to stop at the Post-House, the old buildings of which were still standing before the War. The church, heavy in style, probably dates in part from the end of the 16th century. Only the walls and tower remain.
Cuvilly.
The Church, South-West faÇade.
To reach the church take Rue de Matz, on the right, and on reaching the square, bear to the left.
Belloy Plateau.
To reach Belloy Plateau, on which violent fighting took place in June 1918, keep straight on the road from Cuvilly to Lataule.
The church of Lataule, although modern, has retained some of the windows of the 15th century edifice. Opposite, stands the ChÂteau, built at the end of the 17th century, after the Spanish wars. Of the old ChÂteau, destroyed in the 17th century, traces still remain near to the road.
Statues in Cuvilly Church.
Turn to the right, skirting the park of the ChÂteau, to reach Hill 132, on which are a cemetery, an observation-post, and some trenches.
From there, the view extends over Belloy and MÉry to the west, Cuvilly to the north, Lataule and Lataule Wood to the east, Genlis Wood to the south, and St. Maur to the south-east. The Germans gained a footing on this bare plateau on June 10, 1918, capturing the villages of Lataule, MÉry, Belloy, St. Maur and Cuvilly, after a fierce battle lasting two days, in which they engaged large forces. MÉry especially, was fiercely disputed and changed hands twice that day. On the following day (11th), the Germans had scarcely installed themselves on the newly conquered ground, when they were thrown into confusion and defeated by the sudden counter-attack of a group of divisions under General Mangin. All available tanks had been assembled within twelve hours, in support of this counter-attack, and thanks to their clearly visible line, the French aviators were able, throughout the battle, to follow the advance of the infantry with accuracy. The tanks attacked and cut off the villages of MÉry and Belloy, enabling the infantry to capture the entire German garrisons without striking a blow. On the 12th they reformed, and went forward again with the infantry, advancing east of MÉry and Genlis Wood, before Belloy, and as far as the outskirts of St. Maur. The line was advanced 2 kms., east of MÉry, as a consequence of this thrust, and German counter-attacks failed to win back the lost ground. Cuvilly remained in the possession of the enemy, who consolidated it. On August 10, when the offensive by Humbert's Army began, the German line of support known as the "Vandalenstellung", which passed south of the village, was carried by the French in a single rush.
Lataule. the Chateau in ruins.
The road leads to Belloy, which pass through, leaving the pond on the left. Just outside the village, there is a "Calvary", whilst a little further on, are battery positions with shelters. MÉry, whose church is in the third street on the left, is next reached.
The oldest parts of the church (choir, left transept and tower) date from the 16th century. The rest is 18th century. There are underground shelters in the village and surroundings, the entrances to which are nearly all blocked up. As in the other villages on this plateau, ancient sarcophagi have been discovered at MÉry.
MÉry.
A corner of the village.
Turn back and take G.C. 146 to Ressons-sur-Matz. Trenches with wire entanglements are to be seen along the road.
Artillery passing through Ressons-sur-Matz.
From Belloy Plateau to CompiÈgne,
via Ressons-sur-Matz, MarquÉglise, Margny-sur-Matz,
Élincourt-St. Marguerite, Marest-sur-Matz, Coudun and Bienville.
At the crossing of the road with N. 17, on the left, is the Chateau of SÉchelles. Continue along G.C. 146; 2 kms. further on, there is a very bad level-crossing over a narrow-gauge railway. After crossing a normal gauge railway (l. c.) and another narrow-gauge line, Ressons-sur-Matz is reached. Turn left to reach the church.
Ressons-sur-Matz.—The Main Street.
Ressons is a very ancient market-town. St. Amand, bishop of Maestricht, preached the Gospel there about the year 632. It was formerly a fairly important place, especially in the 16th century. A fortified castle, standing at the end of the village on the road to SÉchelles, was taken by the Burgundians in 1430, and afterwards recaptured by the French.
The church (Hist. Mon.) dates from various periods: the nave and side-aisle with their richly ornamented buttresses were rebuilt in the middle of the 16th century; the most ancient parts (cornices of the nave, and the northern transept and choir) are 12th century; fragments of the stained-glass windows bear the date "1561". The building was considerably damaged in 1918: the stained-glass windows were destroyed and the bell disappeared.
Turn back, and beyond Place du MarchÉ take G.C. 41 on the left. On leaving Ressons, there is a bad level-crossing over a narrow-gauge railway, another in very bad condition beyond Bayencourt Farm, and a third 1 km. further on, after which MarquÉglise is reached. (See sketch-map, p. 114.)
MarquÉglise.—A Corner of the Village.
The old ChÂteau opposite the church is in ruins; the surrounding walls and outlying pavilions alone remain standing.
The church is mainly 16th century. The choir vaulting contains several keystones bearing coats-of-arms. A pretty 15th or 16th century cross with a Virgin on one of its sides, which used to stand in the cemetery, was destroyed.
MarquÉglise.
The Church and French Military Graves.
A foot-path nearly opposite the church leads to Hill 77. From there a fine panoramic view may be had of the battlefield on both sides of the Amiens-CompiÈgne road, as far as the Aronde, particularly to the south-west, where the view takes in Antheuil, Loges Farm (an old dependency of Ourscamps Abbey), and Porte Farm, formerly belonging to Élincourt-St.-Marguerite Priory. This region was the scene of desperate fighting during the German offensive of June 9-11, 1918.
The Battlefield to the south-west of hill 77.
On the night of the 10th, the Germans captured Antheuil and the two farms, advancing as far as the Aronde. They were already shouting victory, in the belief they were outflanking CompiÈgne from the north-west and would soon reach EstrÉes-St.-Denis, when the counter-attack of June 11 drove them back. Antheuil was retaken and held; the two farms were likewise recaptured, but the French were unable to hold them.
On the 14th, although the enemy failed in front of Antheuil, they resumed their advance towards Les Loges and Porte Farm.
During the rest of the month this sector remained agitated. On several occasions the Germans attempted to retake Antheuil, but were each time repulsed.
A surprise attack by the French on July 9 resulted in the capture of the two farms in the early morning, with 500 prisoners. On the 13th, they improved their positions and advanced 500 yards to the north of Porte Farm. On August 10, the whole district was cleared by the advance of Humbert's Army.
Return to the car and after turning it round, take the first road on the left to Margny-sur-Matz. (See map, p. 124.)
Margny-sur-Matz.—Interior of the Church.
Note the "Glory Beam".
The door and choir of the church are Norman. Some of the capitals in the choir (those behind the altar) attest to the primitive Norman style. A stone Pieta and a small ovoid stoup dating from 1603 have disappeared. A "glory beam" depicts Jesus-Christ, the Virgin and St. John.
Continue along the road. On leaving Margny, there is a bad level-crossing over a narrow-gauge railway. Take the first road on the left to Élincourt-St.-Marguerite.
Élincourt-St.-Marguerite.
The Church.
This is a very old village, in the neighbourhood of which are several tombs dating from a very remote period. The country was occupied by the Romans. Gallo-Roman remains have been discovered around the ChÂteau of Bellinglise. Under Charles-le-Simple, the village and chapel of St. Marguerite were given to the Abbey of St. Corneille at CompiÈgne. The Priory of St. Marguerite, founded by the Benedictines at the end of the 11th or beginning of the 12th century, was rebuilt in the 13th century. The district hereabouts suffered severely during the Hundred Years War. According to a local tradition, the old ChÂteau of Beauvoir, on the left of the Thiescourt road and now entirely overrun with vegetation, gave shelter one night to Joan of Arc, then a prisoner. This is not improbable, but the tablet in the church, bearing the following inscription: Joan of Arc, before shutting herself up in CompiÈgne, in MCCCCXXX, made a pilgrimage to St. Marguerite and communicated in the church of Élincourt, is not borne out by history, as she could not have gone to Élincourt—occupied by the English—seeing that she left CrÉpy to go to CompiÈgne.
Parts of the church are early 12th century, the aisles and belfry 18th. The doorway includes three accoladed windows, with two other windows above surmounted by diamond-pointed moulding. In the interior, there is an 18th century marble altar. A marble statue of St. Marguerite was placed in safety during the war, but another of St. John (15th century) also in marble, has disappeared, together with the two shrines of St. Barbe and St. Marguerite.
The church was seriously damaged, most of the vaulting being destroyed. At the eastern termination, the partial collapse of two buttresses laid bare some small 12th century columns which formerly ornamented the choir and which were walled in at the time the buttresses were reconstructed, probably in the 15th century.
Leaving the church on the left, follow the road as far as the first crossing. Leave the car and climb the hill-side on foot, as far as the Monastery of St. Marguerite, which dominates the whole valley of the Matz, and from which there is a fine view extending from Ressons Wood to the Soissonnais hills. Only fragments of the surrounding walls, a deep well, some cellars (which were transformed into shelters), and a number of old yew-trees remain.
Élincourt-St.-Marguerite and the Valley of the Matz,
seen from the Monastery of St. Marguerite.
On the way back, take the left-hand road, which joins G.C. 142. At the fork, take the right-hand road to Marfontaine Manor—practically intact—built in the 13th century on a Gallo-Roman mound, to the north of the Priory Garden. The great hall has low vaulting, the central springing of which rests on a round pillar; the keystones represent three entwined fishes. The ChÂteau of Bellinglise, abutting on Marfontaine Manor, was built in the 16th century.
The left-hand road passes near St. Claude Farm, at the crossing of G.C. 142 (from Élincourt to Lassigny) with G.C. 82 (from Mareuil to Thiescourt). From here, there is a fine view over the battlefield from the Matz to the Oise: Gury (to the north), the valley of the Matz and Ressons (to the west), Mareuil-la-Motte, MarquÉglise and Vignemont (to the south), Élincourt, Chevincourt, MÉlicocq and RibÉcourt (to the south-east), and the Thiescourt Woods (to the east).
The Massif of Thiescourt.
The eastern portion of the massif and the fighting which took place
there, are described in the Michelin Guide: Noyon, Roye, Lassigny.
During the battle of March 30, 1918, the headquarters of General d'Ambly (77th Division) were at Élincourt, while those of General Guillemin (53rd Division) were at Chevincourt. At that time, these divisions were barring the road from Plessis-de-Roye to the Oise. Until June 9, the enemy attempted local operations only. On June 9, they attacked in massed formation, capturing Gury Heights, Ricquebourg Wood, and Mareuil-la-Motte. The village of Ressons-sur-Matz, in which they gained a footing, was disputed foot by foot. St. Claude Farm, which also fell, was in the thick of the battle. It was an important position overlooking the plateau, from which the enemy, from the outset of the attack, had an extensive view over a large part of the French rear positions, and its loss meant the withdrawal of the artillery. The brunt of the German attack was directed against this observation-post, which had to be abandoned, the French being overwhelmed. On the 10th the Germans reached Ressons Wood and Bellinglise Plateau, gained a footing in MarquÉglise, and captured the farms of Attiche, Monolithe, RibÉcourt and Antoval. On the 12th, after repeated attempts, they gained a footing in MÉlicocq, carried the heights of Croix-Ricard, and crossed the Matz. However, on June 13, a French counter-attack drove them back across the river; MÉlicocq and Croix-Ricard were recaptured, together with a hundred prisoners and a number of guns. In spite of several violent counter-attacks, the enemy were held.
On August 10, an offensive by Humbert's Army began to clear the whole region. At 4.20 a.m., the 129th, 165th, 6th, 121st, 74th, 123rd, 67th, 38th and 15th Divs. attacked from Courcelles to Antheuil and from Antheuil to the Oise. At 7 a.m. the first objectives were reached. Ressons, through which ran the enemy's main line (the "Gothenstellung") was passed, whilst MarquÉglise, the ChÂteau of SÉchelles, Chevincourt and Bourmont were captured. The whole of a Regimental Staff was captured at the ChÂteau of SÉchelles. At Ressons the tanks threw the Germans into confusion. On the 11th, Vignemont, Margny, Le Plessier, Hill 179, Mareuil-la-Motte, Bellinglise ChÂteau and Élincourt were captured. The French advanced in the direction of Gury and St. Claude Farm, which formed the key of the "Gothenstellung" position, and by evening had reached the western outskirts of Gury, a point south of La BerliÈre and Hill 143, and approached St. Claude Farm, Hill 166, Samson, Cense Farm and the quarries of Montigny and Antoval. On the 12th, they captured and progressed beyond Gury and St. Claude Farm, and took Écouvillon and Loges Wood, the latter being, however, lost again in the afternoon. On the 13th, they advanced along the plateau, gained a footing in Plessis Park, reached the eastern outskirts of Belval, and attained a point 800 yards north-east of Gury. Entering RibÉcourt on the 14th, they re-occupied the Attiche and Monolithe Farms on the 15th, as well as the quarries situated 2 kms. north-west of RibÉcourt. On the 17th, the Germans delivered several powerful attacks near Monolithe and Attiche Farms, but failed to drive back the French, who strongly held the newly conquered ground.
From St. Claude Farm, return to Élincourt. Near the church, take Rue de l'Escalier (G.C. 142) and the road on the left of the Calvary. 1 km. further on, near a block of houses, follow the right-hand road, passing through Marest-sur-Matz. The road skirts the Chateau of Rimberlieu, opposite which is a tower—all that remains of an old fortified castle. Villers-sur-Coudun is next reached, whose church is situated on the left, near the end of the village. The end of the chancel is 12th-13th century, the faÇade and vaulting 15th-16th century, the remainder modern.
Continue along the road to Coudun, formerly the Head-Quarters of the Training Camp built in 1698 for the Duke of Burgundy, grandson of Louis XIV. The king, accompanied by James II of England, paid a visit to this camp in August, to attend the military manoeuvres. The camp, under the command of Marshal de Boufflers, extended along the plateau which dominates the right bank of the Oise from Lachelle to Margny and from Baugy to the ChÂteau of Bienville. 50 battalions of Infantry, 52 squadrons of Cavalry and 40 guns were stationed there.
Villers-sur-Coudun.—The Main Street.
Although the nave and aisles of St. Hilaire Church are modern, the faÇade, arched doorway and choir date from the Norman period (11th or 12th century). The doorway is ornamented with an archivolt formed by raftered and counter-raftered tori with a tympanum of diamond-moulding. One of the cornices of the choir is supported by Norman arcading with figured modillions. Inside the church are a stoup and a 7-branched chandelier (both made out of a single piece of wrought-iron), and a 17th century painting above the high altar depicting: The Crowning of the Virgin. The bronze bell (761) was saved.
Keep along G.C. 142 to Bienville, situated to the west of a long hill—the Ganelon—which stretches from the south-east to the north-west, and whose south-western side is sharply indented. From the top of this hill (altitude: 480 feet) consisting of a plateau which dips slightly down towards the Oise, there is a fine view over the whole of the surrounding country: Laigue Forest, Aisne Valley, CompiÈgne Forest, Oise Valley as far as Verberie, and the hills of Liancourt, between Creil and Clermont. At the north-western end of Ganelon Hill, many Roman medals and antiquities have been discovered, and it is believed that a Roman camp formerly occupied this site. Tradition has it that a fortified castle stood there in the Middle-Ages.
C.G. 142 first skirts, then crosses the railway (l. c.), afterwards joining N. 32, at which point turn to right. CompiÈgne is entered by the Avenue de Clairoix and Rue de Noyon. At the end of the latter, take Rue d'Amiens on the left, cross the Oise, and follow Rue de SolfÉrino which leads to Place de l'HÔtel-de-Ville.
The French G.H.Q. at CompiÈgne, in 1917.
General PÉtain making his report in a room of the Chateau.
To visit CompiÈgne, use the Michelin Guide:
CompiÈgne, before and during the War.
CompiÈgne.—Fire at the corner of Rue des
Trois-Barbeaux and Place du MarchÉ aux Herbes.
Extracted from the Michelin Guide: CompiÈgne before and during the War.
