The following Itinerary is divided into two parts: 1. The right bank of the Meuse, including the forts (Tavannes, Souville, Vaux and Douaumont). See pp.57–87. 2. The left bank of the Meuse, including CumiÈres, Mort-Homme, Hill 304 and Avocourt. See pp.88–111. 1st ITINERARY: THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MEUSE AND THE FORTSMap of the 1st itinerary I.—From Verdun to Tavannes FortLeave Verdun by the ChaussÉe Gate, cross the Meuse and the fortified enclosure, and take the Rue d’Etain (R.N.18) on the left. Go up the Faubourg PavÉ. This road, used by the relief troops in the Vaux-Douaumont sector, was heavily and continually shelled until Verdun was finally cleared in December, 1916. At the side of the Municipal Cemetery (on the left) is a Military Cemetery containing more than 5,000 graves (photo, p.58). Follow N.18 for about six kilometers, then turn to the left into the road leading to Tavannes Fort, situated about a kilometer from the main road. Tavannes Fort dominates the ground behind the Vaux-Souville line and the Etain-Verdun road. The Germans, in their effort to reach Souville, sought by frequent bombardments to destroy the fort which resisted stubbornly, but on May7th a 17-inch shell destroyed one of the arches and caused serious damage. Near the fort, on the Verdun-Etain railway, is the long Tavannes Tunnel. Although the entrances were constantly shelled by enemy artillery, it was used as a shelter for the reserves of the Vaux-Souville sector and as a munitions depot. Bunks were fitted up in three superimposed rows, 300 to 450 feet in length, and separated by spaces, where numerous other troops slept as they could on the ground. Despite the ventilating shafts, the air remained foul, owing to the perspiration of the men and the rudimentary sanitary arrangements. To complete the misery of the men, a grenade depot blew up on the night of September4th, causing many victims. II.—From Tavannes Fort to Vaux FortReturn to the road by which the fort was reached (I.C.2) and turn into it on the right. About 300yards further on, at the fork (see photo above), take the right-hand road (the other leads to Souville Fort). On the left is the ravine which precedes the entrance to Tavannes Tunnel. At first the road rises, then dips down to Bourvaux Ravine. (On the right the road to Bourvaux Battery is visible.) The road zig-zags, then scales Hill349, leading to Vaux Fort, after crossing through the woods of La LaufÉe and Chenois, of which only a few broken, branchless trunks remain. Chenois and LaufÉe Woods and the Damloup Battery.—Before and after the fall of Vaux Fort, these positions were often attacked by the Germans, especially in June, July and September, 1916. From June2nd to 4th the Damloup battery and its approaches, defended by units of the 142nd and 52nd Line Regiments, repulsed sharp German attacks and prevented the enemy from debouching from Damloup. The defence of the battery lasted till July2nd, the defenders, in constantly diminishing numbers, being attacked and bombarded without intermission. On July3rd After losing it on July12th, the French retook the battery in a bayonet charge on October24th, while General Lardemelle’s division recaptured Chenois Wood (see p.19). Vaux Fort.—Built of masonry about the year 1880, afterwards of concrete, and finally of reinforced concrete, the fort was only completed in 1911. Smaller and less powerful than Douaumont Fort, it dominates the plateau to the south of Vaux Ravine and the reverse side of Douaumont Plateau. Therein lies its importance. On March9th Germany announced triumphantly to the world that the VIth and XIXth reserve regiments of Posen had “taken by assault the armoured Fort of Vaux, as well as numerous neighbouring fortifications.” This communiquÉ was untrue. Two battalions of the XIXth regiment of Posen had in reality gained a footing on Vaux Hill on March 9th, but they were mown down at close range by French fire. As a matter of fact, three months of uninterrupted costly effort were necessary before the Germans were able to enter Vaux Fort. On March10th and 11th, in four column formation, they attacked the slopes leading to the fort. Literally mowed down, regiment after regiment From March to June2nd, the fort and its surroundings received no less than 8,000 large calibre shells daily. Only one entrance was left, i.e. the north-west postern, which enemy artillery fire rendered unserviceable. The commander of the fort (Raynal) and his men were imprisoned in the underground chambers of the fort, being no longer able to hold their ground outside. To economise food and water, the surplus contingents were ordered to leave the fort. On the night of the 4th a first detachment made its escape under the direction of Aspirant Buffet, who returned to the fort the next evening with orders. The same night 100 more men managed to get away. Carrier pigeons and optical signals now furnished the only means of communication with the French lines. On the 4th, the last pigeon was released. On the morning of the 5th, thanks to two signalmen who volunteered to change a The Fort is on the left at the back When, on the night of June8th, after seven days and nights of continual fighting, the heroic defenders of the fort were at last overpowered, the unwounded among them had not tasted a drop of water for two days. Five months later (November2nd) the Germans were driven out of the fort, which they hurriedly evacuated (see pp.63–64). III.—From Vaux Fort to Souville FortOn leaving Vaux Fort return along the same road to the fork (photo, p.60) and turn to the right. About one kilometer from the fork, on the left, the escarpments of Souville Fort border the road. Go to the fort on foot (about 200 yards from the road). Souville Fort, which stands as high as that of Douaumont, commands the background of the Douaumont—Vaux line. After taking this line, the enemy, from June15th to 22nd, undertook the destruction of the fort. On the 23rd the entire CIIIrd German Division attacked, but was repulsed with very heavy losses in front of the French second line trenches. The attack was renewed by two divisions on July11th and 12th, but failed to reach the moats of the fort. [Labels, from left to right: Heightsonleftbank, Froide-TerreRedoubt, Froide-TerreHill, RoadtoDouaumont, ThiaumontRedoubt, RoadtoDouaumont] [Labels, from left to right: DouaumontFort, HardoumontWood, VauxRavine, Hill349, ChapitreWood, VauxFort] After visiting the village return to the cross-roads and take the road on the right to Douaumont, seen on the left half of the above panorama (p.66). The bombardments have left no trace of St. Fine Chapel. IV.—From Souville Fort to Vaux Village and PondAfter visiting Souville Fort return to the cross-ways at St. Fine Chapel, seen in the above photo. At the cross-roads, take the I.C.12 on the right to Vaux village. The road dips down into a gorge between the woods of Le Chapitre and Fumin. Chapitre and Fumin Woods.—To the west and east of the road leading to Vaux village, these two woods cover the flanks of the plateau which dominates Vaux Ravine and supports Vaux Fort. It was there that the Germans sought to outflank the fort on the west to reach Souville, but they were held in check during May. From June, 1916, these woods were subjected to bombardments of incredible intensity. A powerful German attack on June23rd failed, but another on July12th enabled the Germans to get a footing in Fumin Wood. In August and September frequent enemy attacks gave them temporary local gains. On October24th and 25th, and again at the end of the month, French counter-attacks captured the enemy strongholds and cleared the woods completely. The defence of the “R” outworks by the 101stline regiment was intimately connected with the attacks on Fumin Wood and Vaux Fort. These outworks were at the foot of the slopes of Fumin Wood, about half-way between the village and fort of Vaux. Bombarded by heavy guns on June1st and 2nd, it was unsuccessfully attacked by the enemy at 8p.m. on the evening of the 2nd. Twice on the 3rd and once on the 4th the French, reinforced by a few units, although deprived of water and subjected to machine-gun fire on the flank, repulsed new German attacks. A company of the 298th which, on the night of the 5th, relieved that of the 101st (reduced to 39 men), held out three days more under increasingly difficult conditions, and was only overpowered on the night of the 8th after the capture of the fort of Vaux. These positions were recaptured during the French offensive of October2nd. 1916. The works known as the “Petit DÉpÔt,” “Fulda Boyau,” and “SabliÈre,” bristling with machine-guns and scarcely touched by the French artillery preparation, offered a stubborn resistance, and were only captured by the 74thDivision in the evening after a whole day of exceedingly hard fighting. (Photo, April 20th, 1917.) Vaux-les-Damloup.—From March8th the Germans sought to enter this village from the Woevre. The 1st battalion of their XIXthregiment of Reserves, believing it to be empty, was well-nigh exterminated. On the 10th, after a nine-hour night bombardment with torpedoes, units of the XVth and XVIIIthC.A. attacked the village. Although numbering more than six to one, it was only after four successive attacks that they gained a footing in the ruins of a block of houses behind the church. Soon after they advanced as far as the ruins of the church. Five times they sought to debouch, but were each time literally mowed down by the fire of the French machine-guns and mountain batteries. After two costly checks on March16th and 18th the Germans again attacked on the evening of the 30th, but it was only three days later and at the cost of very heavy casualties that they were able to take and keep the village. The road comes to an end at Vaux Pond. The village extended beyond the wooden foot-bridge seen in the photo. No trace of it is left, and the tourist will look in vain for any indication in the desolate waste around him of this erstwhile picturesque and flourishing village. It has literally been wiped out. Turn the car round 100yards from the pond, at the place where a narrow-gauge rail-track formerly ran (see photo below). V.—From Vaux Village to Douaumont FortAfter turning the car round at Vaux Pond, return by the same road to the cross-ways at St.Fine Chapel (see pp.66 and 67), continue another fifty yards, then take on the right the road to Douaumont. About 500 yards farther on is the site of what was the village of Fleury-devant-Douaumont. From June21st to September30th, 1916, the village was often disputed. After violently bombarding it from June21st to 23rd, four German Alpine regiments carried it, pushing forward to the south of the Fleury-Vaux railway where the French 75’s checked them with very heavy loss. On the 24th–25th the French reoccupied the eastern part of the village. On the 27th two battalions of the French 241stline regiment entered Fleury, but were soon driven out, after which they clung to the southern and western parts. The enemy bombardment of July 9th–10th levelled the village. On the 11th, picked German troops attacked and outflanked it on the south. In the ruins of Fleury, on the right, there is a road which, after passing through Caillette Wood, comes to an end about 400 yards from Douaumont Fort. The latter can be reached from here on foot. One kilometer after the ruins of Fleury the road divides. Take the right-hand one, the other leads to Bras by the northern slopes of Froide-Terre Hill. The uphill road follows the ridge, at the end of which is Douaumont Fort, then passes south of Thiaumont Redoubt. Thiaumont Redoubt, S.W. of Douaumont Fort, dominating Froide-Terre Hill and the Bras road to the W., and the Fleury road to the S., formed the left extremity of the last but one line of resistance which passed in front of Verdun, via the village of Fleury and the forts of Souville and Tavannes. For five months (May–September, 1916), which saw some of the hardest fighting in the battle of Verdun, the Germans wore themselves down against this line. Neither the repeated furious attacks, nor poison gas, nor the incredibly intense bombardments could break the resistance of the French, who clung desperately to their positions. A little further on the road passes the site of Thiaumont Farm, all traces of which were swept away by the battle. Thiaumont Farm, captured on June1st, was reconquered on the 2nd. The enemy occupied the ruins on the 9th, after their big attack of the previous day. On the 12th, 13th, 15th and 17th they sustained four serious checks in front of the defences. Exasperated at the French resistance, they deluged the positions and those of Froide-Terre, on the 21st, with poison gas and more than 100,000 shells. At 6 o’clock on the morning of the 23rd five Bavarian regiments attacked, but although they reached the defences of The Central Shelter having been pierced by a shell on May 6th, the Redoubt was afterwards only used as an Artillery Observation-Post. The Entrance Trench in the foreground was each day levelled by enemy shells, only to be re-made during the night. From the middle of August the French command changed their tactics. Abandoning the costly direct attacks, the redoubt was gradually encircled. On October 24th Moroccan Colonial troops, Zouaves and Tirailleurs, in a dashing grenade and bayonet attack, recaptured Douaumont, the Farm and Redoubt of Thiaumont and the Dame and neighbouring ravines. Leave the car at Thiaumont Farm and go on foot to Douaumont Fort, following the temporary narrow-gauge line for about 1,300 yards. These rails follow the old road which was entirely destroyed. DOUAUMONT FORT(See photo, p.29.) This modern stronghold, which the Crown Prince called “the N.E. angular pillar of the permanent fortifications of Verdun,” occupies at Hill388 the culminating point of the hard limestone plateau which forms the region of Verdun. Lying between Bras Ravine (which descends towards the W. and the Meuse) and Vaux or Bazil Ravine (extending towards the E. and the Woevre), the fort dominates the entire region. As the key of the battlefield it was fiercely disputed. Before the battle of 1916 it was only bombarded twice by the German artillery. Of the 250 shells fired at it early in November, 1914, 170 reached the mark without, however, causing serious damage. The few 8-inch shells received on March29th, 1915, did no damage whatever. On February25th, 1916, almost at the beginning of the battle, units of the German XXIVth Infantry Regiment (IIIrd Brandenburgers), wearing French Zouave uniforms, surprised and occupied the fort. On the morning of the 26th the French 153rdD.I. (20thC.) counter-attacked fiercely five times, advancing their line beyond the fort and surrounding the enemy on three From the 19th to the 22nd French heavy guns bombarded the fort, the explosion of a shell on the 20th causing hundreds of victims. To hamper the enemy Intelligence Service six of their observation balloons were destroyed by a French flying squadron on the morning of the 22nd. At 11.50 the 10thBrigade (5thD.I.) attacked the fort and its French Infantry and Sappers in a trench hurriedly made around an outwork of masonry still held by the enemy with machine-guns. Five months later (October24th) they lost it again after a heavy bombardment and attack, during which a French 16-inch shell pierced the superstructure of the fort and started a fire. A dense fog overhung the fort when, at 11.40a.m., the signal for the attack, directed by General Mangin, was given. When, at about 2.30p.m. the fog lifted, French observers perceived the Moroccan Colonials of the (photographed on the morning of Oct.25th, 1916, the day after the victory) On the night of the 24th a sergeant of the 4thZouaves captured, unaided, a German company and six officers. Returning from revictualling duty, he was taken prisoner by some Germans occupying a shelter near the fort Coolly informing them that Douaumont and Damloup Battery had fallen, he called on them to surrender. The attitude of the sergeant was so convincing that after some hesitation they laid down their arms and were brought into the French lines. Douaumont was entirely cleared on December15th by the 37thD.I., which fought a hard battle in the woods before the village. Having learned the time of the attack, the Germans were on their guard, but after a furious combat the 2ndTirailleurs drove back the VIth Prussian Grenadiers and crossed Helly Ravine ((photo, p.80). Hardaumont and Caillette Woods and Douaumont Village may be visited, on foot from the fort of Douaumont. The plateau E. and S.E. of Douaumont Fort ends in wooded slopes, which overhang Vaux (Basil) Ravine. That furthest to the E. contains Hardaumont Wood, while on the most western slope is Caillette Wood. The Germans who, on March8th and 9th, had taken Hardaumont Redoubt, only entered Caillette Wood on April2nd, after four days’ attacks with asphyxiating gas and liquid fire. Despite a night march Douaumont Village, situated below and 500 yards to the W. of the fort, was almost encircled on the evening of February25th, but Zouaves and Tirailleurs extricated it. From the 25th to the 28th the VthGerman D.I. made five furious attacks, but were unable to break down the resistance of the 95thline regiment and units of the 153rdD.I. which were defending the village. On March2nd, after a preliminary bombardment which destroyed the village and isolated the battalion holding it, the CXIIIthGerman D.I., wearing French helmets, attacked at 1.15p.m. on the N. and E. The French machine-gunners soon discovered the trick, however, and mowed them down. After a second bombardment the enemy again attacked, overwhelming the defenders, one company of whom resisted to the last man. The remains of the French battalion took their stand fifty yards S.W. of the village and prevented the enemy from debouching. On the 3rd two battalions of the 172nd and 174thline regiments retook the village at the point of the bayonet. During the night the Germans counter-attacked twice unsuccessfully with heavy loss, 800 dead being counted in front of one of the French trenches. On the 4th a third and more powerful counter-attack succeeded in driving the French from the village, but broke down against new positions 200 yards to the south. The French were compelled to fall back in May and June, but returned victorious to the ruined village on October24th. The road from Thiaumont to Bras follows it, ending at Haudromont Quarries (see Itinerary, p.57). The tree-stumps in the foreground formed part of Chauffour Wood. VI.—From Douaumont Fort to Bras and SamogneuxA down-hill road leads direct from Douaumont Village to Thiaumont Farm, where the tourist will take his car again. Follow the road, which turns to the left and passes through Dame Ravine. On all sides the chaotic waste testifies to the terrible hammering which this region received from the guns (see photo, p.78, and map, p.73). The tourist leaves Chauffour Wood on his right (photos, p.78). This wood extends to the north of the road and approaches to within a few hundred yards of Douaumont on the west. The CVth German Infantry was cut to pieces here on the morning of February26th, 1916, and on March2nd the XXIstGerman Division suffered a similar fate there. During a powerful attack around Douaumont on April16th the Germans occupied a small salient S. of the wood, but were soon after partially driven out, while on December17th the wood was entirely cleared of them by the Zouaves and Tirailleurs of the 38thD.I. The enemy’s efforts to retake it and Albain Wood to the S.W. were unsuccessful. Continue to descend; Haudromont Quarries will be reached shortly afterwards. Around these positions, which dominate the ravine debouching at the stream near Bras, furious indecisive fighting took place, more especially on March18th, April22nd and May8th, 9th, 10th, 22nd, 26th and 27th, 1916. They were finally taken on October24th by the French11th line regiment. Fighting was very bitter around the quarries, which form a rough oblong 200 to 300 yards long, fifty to sixty yards wide, visible from afar on account of their white colour. The enemy had cut galleries, casemates and shelters in the chalky soil, the whole forming a redoubtable position. After encircling the quarries, the French captured them with grenades. At the bottom of the hill, opposite and below Haudromont Quarries, tourists desirous of visiting Helly Ravine (see photo below, and map, map, p.73), which was the scene of terrible fighting during the offensive of December, 1916 (pp.20–21), should turn to the right for about 300yards. Return to the starting-point and continue straight along the Bras Road. On the right the tourist comes to the uphill road to Louvemont, which crosses the southern slopes of Poivre Hill. This road is impracticable for carriages beyond Louvemont. (Farthest point accessible to motor-cars in May, 1919) Louvemont and Poivre HillAt 2.20p.m. on February24th, strong enemy forces debouched between Louvemont and Hill347. During the night the first French reinforcements, belonging to the 20thC.A., repulsed them. On the 25th, the enemy, in dense formation, outflanked the village on the W. and E. They were checked several times by units of the 37thD.I. and artillery fire, but succeeded in entering the village at 3p.m., after having practically levelled it by shell fire. Zouaves, who were still clinging to the outskirts, ran short of ammunition, but on being reinforced by a battalion of Tirailleurs with 50,000 cartridges, continued with the latter to defend the S.E. approaches of the village until the morrow. Owing to their heavy losses, the French 37thD.I. was compelled to fall back, but the fire from a hundred 75mm. guns concentrated at Froide-Terre held the Germans in check and prevented their debouching from the village. The French 39thD.I. promptly took up positions in front of the 37th, between Poivre Hill and the Meuse, and barred the road to Bras. Louvemont and its approaches were brilliantly retaken during the French offensive of December15th, 1916. While a brigade of the 126thD.I. captured Hill342 in several rushes, the 4thMoroccan Brigade of the 38thD.I., in a running attack, carried the first and second enemy lines, Louvemont and Hill347, as well as a fortified cavern known as the camp du Henrias, before which one of the victors of Douaumont, Major NicolaÏ, was killed. On August20th, 1917, four successive lines of trenches were taken by the French 165thD.I., in an attack to the north of Louvemont. On leaving Louvemont, return by the same way to the Bras Road and take it on the right. Bras village is reached shortly afterwards, where the Itinerary follows the Meuse Valley and N. 64. Bras.—The Prussians camped here in 1792, during the occupation of Verdun. In 1916 the Germans could not capture it, although they took Poivre Hill which dominates the village to theN. After several checks (e.g. February25th and March9th) they occupied Poivre Hill and Vacherauville, but were unable to dislodge the French from the woods to the S.E. From March, they organised a network of barbed-wire entanglements, concrete galleries, redoubts, shelters, etc., on the hill, converting it into a kind of fortress, but on December15th the village and hill were rushed by the 112thline regiment in three-column formation, covered on the left by a fourth column and supported by auto-cannon. Veritable bastion, overlooking the Beaumont road and flanking the entire German line, the village could only be captured by surprise, and the latter was complete. German officers were taken in their shelters while dressing. The attack had not been expected before noon or later than 2p.m. The village was conquered in ten minutes, and Poivre Hill in seven minutes, in a single rush. From Bras continue northwards to Vacherauville and Samogneux, where the first German attacks at the beginning of the battle of Verdun took place, (see Itinerary p.57.) (Photographed in April, 1917) Vacherauville, entirely destroyed, is reached soon afterwards. Leave on the right the road to Beaumont and take, a little further on, that leading to Champneuville, which brings the tourist to the top of Talou Hill, from where the panoramic view on pp.86 and 87 was taken. Situated in a long bend of the Meuse, Talou Hill gradually slopes down to the water’s edge. On February25th the enemy reached this hill which, caught between the fire from both banks, became equally untenable for the French and Germans, and from February 27th was considered as a neutral zone. It was retaken by the French in their offensive of August20th, 1917, at the same time as the villages of Neuville, Champneuville and Champ. Samogneux may be reached from Talou Hill, either by continuing, via Champneuville (see outline map, p.87), or by returning to the R.N.64. Subjected to an infernal shell-fire on February22nd and 23rd Samogneux had to be abandoned by the French on the evening of the latter date. It was retaken by the 126thD.I. on August21st, The village was entirely levelled. E. of Samogneux and dominating the road from Vacherauville to Beaumont rises Hill344, which, together with Samogneux and Beaumont, fell into the hands of the enemy in 1916. It was retaken during the French offensive of August20th, 1917, by regiments belonging to the 123rd and 126thD.I. These were almost immediately relieved by the 14thD.I., which for three weeks withstood violent enemy counter-attacks without flinching. On September9th, in particular, it repulsed an attack by several German divisions which had orders to retake Hill344 at all costs. Return to Bras by the same road. VII.—From Bras to VerdunFrom Bras take N64 towards Verdun. The road winds across the western slopes of Belleville Fort. At the top of the hill, take the road on the left (leaving the down-hill road to Verdun). The road (IC2) passes by Belleville Fort and along the top of the hill, which formed the last permanent line of resistance, from, N.E. of Verdun to St.Michel Fort. From St.Michel Fort there is a fine run down St.Michel Hill to Verdun which enter by the Rue d’Elain and ChaussÉe Gate. (Consider the four parts from left to right, across both pages; the top half fits on to the left of the bottom half.) [Labels, from left to right: Hill275, Chattancourt-EsnesRoad, Hill304, ChattancourtVillage, Mort-Homme, Champ-Village.] [Labels, from left to right: OieHill, CumiÈresHill, Montfaucon.] [Labels, from left to right: ForgesWood, EndofOieHill, RiverMeuse.] [Labels, from left to right: HeightsofSivry-on-the-Meuse, Consonvoye, Brabant, Verdun–ConsonvoyeRoad, Samogneux.] From this spot on the road from Vacherauville to Champneuville [marked by the fan-shaped symbol above the ‘o’ of ‘Panorama’] there is a general view of the lines from which the German Offensive started, and of the battlefield on the left bank of the river. 2nd ITINERARY: THE LEFT BANK OF THE MEUSEincluding CumiÈres, Oie Hill, Mort-Homme, Montfaucon, Hill 304, and Avocourt (see description, pp.90–111) I.—From Verdun to CharnyLeave Verdun by the Porte de France; after the railway bridge go straight along G.C.38 (see plan between pp.30–31). Cross the Faubourg de Jardin-Fontaine, then Thierville village. Facing it is MARRE FORT. At the foot of the hill on which the fort stands, turn to the right. Leaving on the left the ruined farm of Willers-les-Moines, the road climbs up the small Hill243, below which is the strongly fortified Charny Redoubt. On the other side of the level-crossing is Charny. It was at Charny that the Germans crossed the Meuse in 1870. Incidentally, they shot the former notary, M.Violard, under the pretext that he had aided an attack by the francs-tireurs of Verdun. In 1916, the village was frequently bombarded by the enemy, particularly on March31st. On the horizon: Poivre Hill Beyond the Church take the road on the right to CumiÈres. That on the left, leading to Bourrus Woods, is impracticable for cars. II.—From Charny to CumiÈresReturn to the level crossing, then turn to the right on leaving Charny. The road skirts the northern slopes of the hills on which stands the modern forts of Vacherauville, Marre and Bourrus Woods. Cross through Marre village, in ruins. Beyond the ruined church follow the right-hand road (photo above) to CumiÈres. Half-way between Marre and CumiÈres are (on the right) the station of Chattancourt, (on the left) the road leading to that village. Attacked on March14th and destroyed by shell-fire on April25th, CumiÈres was only captured by the Germans on the night of May23rd. Three days later the French retook the eastern portion after a desperate combat. On May29th and 30th, after two days of continual bombardment, they were momentarily driven back towards Chattancourt, but a vigorous counter-attack brought them back to the southern outskirts of the village. Caurettes Wood, to the S.W. of CumiÈres, remained, however, in the enemy’s hands. On August20th, 1917, CumiÈres village and wood were retaken by a regiment of the LÉgion ÉtrangÈre, who attacked singing the famous popular song “La Madelon.” Outline map of the above panorama. From CumiÈres continue straight ahead to Oie Hill, from where the above panoramic view was taken. [Labels, from left to right: HaumontWood, OieHill, Samogneux, RiverMeuse, NationalRoadNo.64, PoivreHill, TalouHill.] [Labels, from left to right: Champneuville, RoadfromChampneuville toVacherauville, Froide-TerreHill, Champ.Village, VacherauvilleFort.] On the horizon: The slopes of Mort-Homme. III.—From CumiÈres to Chattancourt and Mort-HommeOn leaving CumiÈres return to the Station of Chattancourt, and take on the right the road to Chattancourt, which is about 800 yards further on. This village was completely levelled (photo below). Nothing remains of the houses and trees. The road seen in the above photo leads to Mort-Homme. From Chattancourt the positions of Mort-Homme may be visited by the road to BÉthincourt (the lower photograph on p.94 shows the beginning of this road). Motor-cars can go as far as the top of Hill295 or Mort-Homme, where it is necessary to turn the car round and return to Chattancourt, as the road is cut near BÉthincourt by the Forges stream, which has entirely flooded the lower part of the village. Mort-Homme.—Like Hill304, Mort-Homme was one of the most fiercely disputed positions on the left bank. It consists of twin hills: No. 265 (of which the BÉthincourt-CumiÈres road skirts the summit) and No. 295 (the Mort-Homme proper, round which the road winds on the N.E.), and formed an excellent observation-post and artillery position in front of the real line of resistance. On March5th, 1916, the German offensive, which, until then, had been confined to the right bank of the river, developed with great violence on the left flank, progressing in six days to the slopes of Mort-Homme. On the 14th, after a five-hours bombardment with shells of every kind and size, sometimes at the rate of 120 a minute, the enemy’s Infantry attack on Mort-Homme began. The Germans took and kept Hill 265, but the French Infantry and Zouaves, after a magnificent defence, held their ground on Hill295—the key to the entire position—and in night counter-attacks drove back the assailants to the N.W. counter-slopes. From March15th to the end of December, 1916, the Germans launched at least fifteen particularly violent attacks against Hill295, sacrificing countless men and huge quantities of munitions. On March16th, 17th and 31st, and April9th and 10th, French Chasseurs and Infantry repulsed the enemy in terrible hand-to-hand fighting. On April22nd, 23rd and 24th the French 40thD.I., by its resistance and brilliant counter-attacks, broke up as many as three enemy attacks in one day, and re-established the French front as it was on April5th. Further German attacks on Hill295 followed on May7th, 20th and 22nd, June29th, July12th and December28th. Their furious offensive of May 20th alone brought them momentarily on the S.W. crest of Hill295 and as far as the French second-line trenches, which were retaken on June15th. At that time the sector of Mort-Homme and Hill304 was commanded by General de Maud’huy, whose courage and coolness are legendary in the army. The exploits of the French troops at Mort-Homme during the difficult period of 1916 were countless. One of the most brilliant was accomplished on April9th by the 11thCompany of the 151stRegiment of Infantry, which had received orders to reconquer the crest of the Mort-Homme. Laughing and singing under a continual bombardment, this company went into line, a section at a time, with measured step and rifle in hand. On approaching the enemy trenches, the men rushed forward under heavy machine-gun fire and captured a large and important network of trenches. Promptly organising the conquered trenches, and despite an extremely intense enemy bombardment of thirty-six hours, the men succeeded in re-establishing the liaison with the 8thBattalion of Chasseurs on their right, making it possible to reform the line which had been broken, and which the enemy afterwards tried in vain to pierce, until May20th. In 1917 the sector was often the scene of violent combats, especially on January25th, and March18th, 20th and 29th. After many efforts and at heavy cost the Germans succeeded in occupying Hill265 and the crest of Hill295, where they organised formidable defences, including deep shell-proof tunnels. On August20th, 1917, during the French attack along the entire Verdun front, the 31stD.I. carried all the German defences and recaptured the Mort-Homme and its tunnels, including the one known as the “Crown-Prince,” which was “cleaned out” by the Foreign Legion. In one of the tunnels several cavalry-men, units of the XXXVIth and a whole battalion of the XXthRegiment of the German Reserve, were captured, while among the officers taken Corbeaux Wood.—The plateaux dominated by the two Mort-Homme Hills are cut into on the north of the high road by a ravine bordered by Corbeaux Wood. This wood offers favourable cover for the massing of attacking troops. It was by this fiercely disputed route that the enemy tried to reach Hill295. On March6th the French line was brought back in front of the wood. On the 7th the enemy, after bombarding it, succeeded in getting a footing there, but on the following day the 92ndInfantry Regiment, in a magnificent counter-attack, retook the wood in twenty minutes. On the morning of the 10th, reinforced by another infantry battalion, the same regiment further captured the N.E. outskirts of CumiÈres Wood (to the E. of Corbeaux Wood), but in the evening, deprived of its commanding officer (Colonel Macker, who had fallen that morning), and lacking the support of the French artillery, which the trees prevented from seeing the rocket-signals, the regiment was compelled to fall back before an impetuous attack by a whole enemy division. However, it was only at frightful cost that the Germans were able to score these two successes, as the French gave ground only inch by inch. The wood was retaken by the Foreign Legion Regiment on August20th, 1917 (see p.23). Trenches captured in August, 1917 In the background the road forks, that on the left going to MontzÉville, the one on the light to Esnes. The tourist should take the latter. [Labels, from left to right: RoadtoMontzÉville, Hill304, RoadtoEsnes.] IV.—From Mort-Homme to Esnes.From Mort-Homme return to the starting-point at Chattancourt, and take on the right the road to Esnes (see photo at the bottom of p.94). On the left, THE CASTLE; on the right, THE CHURCH. This fairly steep road scales the northern slopes of Hill275. Driving is rather difficult by reason of the numerous shell holes in the road. A pass is soon reached, from which Hill304 can be seen opposite (photo, p.98). This road crosses all the organisations of the first line shelters, posts of commandment, dressing-stations, etc. Continue as far as a crossing (visible in photo, p.98), where turn to the right into Esnes. By reason of its position, S. of Hills304 and 295, Esnes was an important base of operations during the Battle of Verdun. It was subjected to frequent enemy bombardments, of which the most violent occurred on March20th and 21st, April5th, 6th, 12th, 25th and 26th, and June22nd, 1916. The three photographs on pp.98 and 99 show the aspects of the village at three different stages of the battle. [Labels, from left to right: Mort-Homme, Heightsontheleftbank of the river, Hill275.] [Labels, from left to right: RoadtoChattancourt, MarreFort, Hill272, BourrusWoods, Hill310.] V.—From Esnes to Montfaucon, via Hill304After passing in front of the ruins of Esnes Church, continue straight ahead, taking the second road on the right (not the first, which leads to BÉthincourt—see photograph above). The road on the left ends in a very steep rough track and is impracticable for cars. The road to be followed zig-zags up to the Wayside Cross of Esnes, from which there is a magnificent view of the battlefields on the left bank from Mort-Homme to Bourrus Woods (Panorama above). At the Wayside Cross take the road to the right. The left-hand one (seen in the foreground on photo, p.101) leads to Avocourt. The tourist will take it on his return from Montfaucon. The one on the right (in the foreground on photo, p.100) passes between Hills287 and 304 (the latter of celebrated memory) crosses the ruins of Haucourt and Malancourt villages, and ends at Montfaucon. HILL 304Hill304, with Hills287, 310 and 275, forms from Malancourt to Marre Fort a line of natural fortresses, which kept under their cross-fire not only the roads of approach, but also the bare glacis and the abrupt escarpments immediately bordering them. The covered ground nearest Hill304 is the S.E. corner of Avocourt Wood. It was from this wood that the IIndBavarian D.I. left to attack the Hill on March20th, 1916. They were checked, however, on the long barren slope leading to the ridge, by the French cross-fire. Their three regiments, on March20th to 22nd, lost from fifty to sixtypercent. of their effective strength, without gain. On April9th, before Hill287, the first German attacking wave succeeded in crossing the French first-line trench, practically destroyed by bombardment. They were running towards the French supporting trench when the survivors of the front-line trench, coming out of their shelters in the upheaved ground among the dead, exterminated them to the last man. On May3rd, eighty German batteries concentrated their fire on Hill304 and its approaches. Clouds of black, green and yellow smoke rose from the hill-top as from a volcano, obscuring the sky to a height of 2,500 feet, according to the reports of aviators. As a British war correspondent put it: “The sky was like a dome of invisible rails on which fast trains ran madly.” On May4th and 5th a fresh German division attempted to occupy the position, believing it and its defenders to have been annihilated. They gained a footing on the N.slopes of the hill, but were driven back during the night by the French 68thR.I., which then withdrew. On the 5th the same German division attacked on the left the Camard Wood and Hill287. In this wood, entirely levelled by an eleven-hour bombardment, the 66thLine R.I. first held up, then charged the assailants at the point of the bayonet. At Hill287 a battalion of the 32ndLine R.I. likewise brilliantly repulsed two attacks. On May7th, after a tremendous shelling, the enemy attacked Hill304 simultaneously from three sides with troops from five different divisions. It was their greatest effort against this position. However, two French regiments of picked troops (125th and 114th), one company of which charged, to the strains of La Marseillaise, the Germans were thrown into disorder and driven back to the N.slopes. During the rest of the month the enemy Reconquered August 24th, 1917. On June29th and 30th they sought to turn the Hill from the E. and W. with the help of liquid fire. On the E. desperate fighting took place around a work which was lost by the French on the 29th, then retaken, lost again, and reconquered on the 30th. The Germans made a powerful attack on December6th, in which they took several trenches on the E.slopes. On the 28th of the same month another German attack, preceded by an intense bombardment, failed. In 1917 the enemy continued their efforts against Hill304. They succeeded on January25th in occupying several of the French advance-positions, which were partly recaptured the next day. Further enemy attacks on March18th, 20th and 29th were repulsed after hand-to-hand fighting. On June28th and 29th another powerful enemy attack succeeded, with heavy loss, in capturing Hill304 and advancing between the Hill and the S.E.corner of Avocourt Wood, to a slight hollow known as the Col-de-Pommerieux. This hollow was, however, reconquered on July17th by the French51st and 87thR.I., supported by two battalions of the 97thD.I. (335th and 346thRegiments), and one battalion of the 73rdD.I. After a remarkable artillery preparation, the French infantrymen, in half-an-hour, reached the fortified crest, and regained a kilometer of ground, including the famous “Demi-Lune” Redoubt. The 87thR.I., composed of men from the north, Valenciennes, St.Quentin and Lens, went 300yards beyond the assigned objective and captured an observation-post in front of the crest, which they christened “Le crÈneau des Gretchen.” The attack occurred at the time the enemy troops were being relieved, 520prisoners, belonging to at least three different divisions, being taken. From a single sap the French Grenadiers brought out four German officers, one of whom, on descending the hill, turned back to admire the manoeuvre of the French soldiers. On August24th Hill304, the approaches to which had been reconquered on the 20th, was carried by the 139th and 121stR.I. (26thD.I.). This division, which attacked before Hill304, on the Pommerieux Plateau and at Camard Wood, captured prisoners belonging to five different German divisions. After capturing Hill304, Equerre Wood and Souvin Redoubt, the division attacked again on the evening of the same day, this time carrying the positions of Palavas, Alsace, Gateau-de-Miel and Lorraine, and advancing the first French line to the Forges stream, i.e. more than twokilometers from its starting-point between Haucourt and Malancourt, the latter still being occupied by the enemy. On leaving Hill 304, descend to Haucourt and Malancourt. Haucourt hamlet, on the Fontaine-des-Aulnes stream, was attacked by the Germans on April4th, 1916, and taken after several sanguinary setbacks on the night of the 5th after a fine defence by three companies of the 79thR.I., which held their ground against a brigade. It was recaptured on September26th, 1918, by the First American Army. General view seen from the ruins of the Church in May, 1919. Malancourt village was reoccupied by the French on October13th, 1914. Enemy attacks on the following 16th and 20th failed. From February, 1915, the French lines were advanced to the slopes on the N.of the village. In 1916 the Germans did not attack until the end of March. They were unable to enter it on the 28th, but the next day captured two houses. On the night of the 30th they occupied it entirely. Malancourt and its wood were recaptured by the First American Army on September26th, 1918. The wood was hard to take, as the Germans had installed numerous blockhouses and barbed-wire entanglements. MontfauconFrom Malancourt tourists may go to Montfaucon, three miles away, by a rather difficult road which has been summarily repaired. From Montfaucon, where the Germans had established an observation-post in the ruins of the church, there is a complete view of the whole of the battlefield north-west of Verdun, from the hills on the right bank of the Meuse, to Vauquois. See Panorama and Map on pp.106 and 107. The tower of the church, which made a fine observation-post for the Germans, was destroyed by the French artillery. When, after their brilliant offensive of September26th, 1918 (see p.24), the Americans drove the enemy from Montfaucon, they found this observation-post (photo below) built with materials taken from the ruins of the church. The above view was taken from the inside of the Observation-Post seen in the photo below, the camera looking through the slit-like embrasure. In the foreground are vestiges of shell-torn trees and the ruins of Montfaucon Village. Verdun is on the horizon between Mort-Homme and Hill275. [Labels, from left to right: Hills on the right bank oftheriver, RoadtoCuisy, Mort-Homme, Hill275, RoadtoMalancourt, Hill310.] [Labels, from left to right: MontfauconWood, VauquoisSpur.] VI.—From Montfaucon to AvocourtFrom Montfaucon return by the same road to Malancourt. The bad state of the Malancourt–Avocourt road (May,1919) does not allow it to be taken from the former to the latter locality. (The road passes through the woods of the same names, disputed with incredible fierceness.) The tourist should, therefore, return to the Wayside Cross at Esnes, along the same road that he came by. From Esnes Cross (see p.100), take on the right the road to Avocourt, which marks approximately the extreme limit of the battlefield W.of Verdun. Avocourt and Avocourt and Malancourt Woods.—One of the finest feats of arms in the Battle of Verdun was performed at Avocourt. On March20th, 1916, the Germans, who had never been able to take the village, attacked with a fresh division of picked troops (IIndBavarians), which had taken part in the summer campaign in Galicia and Poland with Mackensen’s forces. The attack succeeded, with the help of liquid fire. A French counter-attack on the 29th by the 210thR.I., and a battalion of the 157th, recaptured the wood and the redoubt known as the “RÉduit d’Avocourt,” situated on its S.edge. The attacking troops, which had not been revictualled for four days, had finished their reserve rations twelve hours previously. So fatigued were they that they slept standing despite the bombardment. To rouse them, their chiefs, at 3a.m. next morning, ordered the buglers and drummers to play. As the day was breaking the music suddenly stopped, a shell having buried all save one drummer. Furious at this, the men, In 1917, hard fighting continued in this region with varying fortune. Powerful German attacks gave the enemy a little ground between Avocourt and Hill304, and in Avocourt Wood. On August20th, the French 25thD.I. drove the enemy from the S.part of the wood, advancing 1,200 yards and capturing 750prisoners, thirtymachine guns and tentrench mortars. The sandbags mark the German lines. On September26th, 1918, the wood was entirely cleared of the enemy by the FirstAmerican Army. Malancourt Wood.—It was against a French trench, in this wood that on February26th, 1915, the Germans made use of liquid fire for the first time, special pumps, operated by pioneers of the Guard, being employed. VII.—Avocourt to AubrÉvilleFrom Avocourt take the road which follows the small valley running southwards (see Itinerary, pp.88 and 89). It was on this road, hidden from the view of the enemy, that the French concentrations were carried out in the rear lines. Two kilometers from Avocourt, take on the left the road leading to Hesse Wood, scene of all sorts of concentrations, posts of commandment, dressing stations, batteries of artillery, depots, etc. This road is in good condition almost as far as AubrÉville, with the exception of two or three places on leaving Hesse Wood, beyond Bertrame’s Farm. VIII.—From AubrÉville to VerdunOn entering AubrÉville, take on the left N.46 which skirts the St.Menehould-Verdun railway. The tourist passes through Parois and RÉcicourt, where numerous cantonments and rest camps were installed for the relief of the troops. Dombasle, where a large munitions depot blew up, is next reached. From Dombasle one of two Itineraries may be chosen to return to Verdun. The first, by continuing to follow the National Road, via Blercourt. The second, which follows the crests dominating N.3 from Paris to Metz. For the second Itinerary, on leaving Dombasle, take the small road on the left, which leads to Sivry-la-Perche, 4kilometers distant. N. of the latter village, at the N.E.extremity of Hill357, there still exists an observation-post, from which there is a general view of the entire rear-ground of the battlefield W. of Verdun. If it is desired to visit this observation-post before the descent leading to Sivry-la-Perche, take the BÉthelainville road on the left for about 700yards going thence on foot to the right in a N.E.direction. The observation post is about half-a mile further on. From Sivry-la-Perche continue along the road, which passes first on the left of Sartelles Fort and then to the left of Chaume Fort. These two forts only played a minor role in the battle of Verdun, and suffered but slightly from the bombardments. In front of Chaume Fort there was an observation post for heavy artillery, whence there is a splendid view of the Meuse Valley. From Chaume Fort the road is rather steep and in bad condition. Going down on the left and flanking a hill is Glorieux Cemetery, near the evacuation hospital. Verdun is entered by the Porte-de-France. |