Turning to the left into the Rue St. Paul, the tourist passes in front of the College.

The present building was erected in 1890 on the site of the old college, founded in 1570 by Bishop Nicolas Psaume in the grounds of the ancient HÔpital de St. Nicolas-de-GraviÈre. Its church, a fine Ionic structure, was built in 1730 by the Jesuits. The college was one of the first buildings to be damaged by the bombardment, being struck in 1915, prior to the great German offensive against Verdun.

Continue along Rue St. Paul as far as the Palais de Justice and the Sub-PrÉfecture (photo, p.34).

These two buildings are the remains of the second Abbey of the Premonstrants of St. Paul, built inside the town after 1552. The first, situated without the walls, was destroyed by order of the Military Authorities, who feared a siege by Charles Quint.

In the SOUS-PRÉFECTURE vestiges of the ancient monastery are more numerous and apparent. The Salle des Archives, with its slender columns and great Renaissance bays, was the monks’ refectory. The Cabinet du Sous-PrÉfet, with its austere vaulting, has retained its archaic appearance. In the Loge du Concierge (caretaker’s lodge) there still exists one of the original mantelpieces, with carving representing Abraham sacrificing Isaac. The marble-paved vestibule and fine staircase are also 16th century.

The interior arrangement of the Palais de Justice buildings, whose faÇade is ornamented with a finely carved semicircular pediment, has been changed. Of the old convent there now only remains the Salle des Pas-Perdus, formerly the cloister.

The HÔtel de la Cloche d’Or, near by, has been installed in the ancient “Procure” of the same monastery (St. Paul’s).

The books and woodwork of the monastery have been removed to the Municipal Library.

Return by the Rue St. Paul to the Rue ChaussÉe, into which turn to the left; at the end is the ChaussÉe Gate (hist. mon.), built about 1380 (see pp.35 and 58).

Its architecture recalls that of the Bastille. Half of the left tower on the river was rebuilt in 1690, exactly on the same lines and with the stones of the old tower; the semicircular arcade and the pediment facing the bridge are of the same date.

The pediment between the two towers was struck by shell splinters, otherwise the bombardments did not damage the gate.

Cross the ChaussÉe Bridge over the Meuse, then take on the right the Boulevard de la RÉpublique, which passes in front of the Cercle Militaire (Military Club).

Take on the left, the Rue du Puty and the Rue des Tanneries, then the Minimes Bridge (also on the left), at the end of which is St. Saviour’s Church.

The church is modern, having replaced the old Église des Minimes in 1830. It contains, however, some interesting stained-glass windows, while at the entrance is the tomb of the founder of the old church, Bishop Bousnard, deceased in 1584.

Return by the Rue des Tanneries to the Rue du Puty, turn to the left, reaching the Place Chevert on the right bank of the Meuse (see photo, p.37).

There is a fine view of the upper town, bishop’s palace and cathedral from this square. The latter was begun in 1552, after the Church of St. Croix had been pulled down. A statue of General Chevert, by the sculptor of the pediment of the Madeleine in Paris (Lemaire), has been erected on the site of this church. In December, 1916, this statue was removed to the underground vaults of the Citadelle.

On the other side of Chevert Square is the Rue de l’HÔtel-de-Ville, which ends on the right at St. Croix Bridge. Follow it on the left as far as the HÔtel-de-Ville (see Itinerary, p.31).

HÔtel-de-Ville

As one of the lofty windows bears the date 1623, the popular belief that the building was erected by the famous Governor Marillac is unfounded. It is possible, however, that tradition, according to which Marillac sheltered Marie de MÉdicis there, after her flight from Paris, is founded on fact.

It is a fine structure in the Medicis style. The faÇade which overlooks the garden resembles that of the Luxembourg in Paris in some of its lines.

At the side of the HÔtel-de-Ville, at No. 19, is the house of M. ClÉment.

A learned amateur, Monsieur ClÉment, who was killed during the bombardments of 1916, had collected a considerable number of fragments of the Abbey of St. Vanne and rebuilt the principal doorway of the latter (see p.52) in the courtyard of his house. The famous door of the Capitulary Room, described and drawn by Viollet-le-Duc, was of curious 13th-century design. The lintel of the tympanum was ornamented with foliage, which is an interesting peculiarity, as the sculptural decoration of the tympanums of doors was very rare at that time in civil architecture.

Return to the Place Chevert, cross the St. Croix Bridge, and go to the Place d’Armes via the Place and Rue Mazel, whose houses are in ruins.

Turn to the left into the Rue St. Pierre. In the Place d’Armes take the Rue de la Belle-Vierge as far as the HÔtel de la Princerie, former residence of the “primicerius,” first archdeacon of the Cathedral.

Rebuilt in 1525, it has been divided in recent times into two houses, Nos. 16 and 18. While the faÇade of No. 18 was modern, that of No. 16, with its window-gratings, retained its ancient aspect. The courtyard was ornamented on two of its sides with two-storied Renaissance galleries (hist. mon.). Although of 16th-century construction, the decoration of this cloister was inspired by the Middle Age or Transition Period (note the crocketted capitals of the pillars and the bases of the latter).

The house was destroyed by the bombardments, and the cloister is almost entirely in ruins.

The street took its name from a statue of the Virgin on the monumental entrance-gate of the deanery.

Take the Rue de la Magdeleine on the left, beyond the deanery, as far as the Place de la Magdeleine.

At No. 2 of this square is an early 16th-century house (sometimes called the “Maison de JulesII.”), with a carved triangular pediment supported by two pillars. Built after the decease of Pope JuliusII., it was probably erected on the site of the house where he lived while still Cardinal Julian de la RovÈre.

At No. 19 of the square, cross the house in ruins to a kind of garden-terrace at the back, built on the site of the old ramparts, vestiges of which are still visible. Fine view of the ruins in the Rues Mazel, ChÂtel and St. Esprit.

Take the Rues ChÂtel and Belle-Vierge to the Cathedral (see Itinerary, p.31).

THE CATHEDRAL (hist. mon.)

The Cathedral of Verdun, like that of Angers, was one of the first French churches to be dedicated to the Virgin. In the 7th or 8th centuries its patronal festival was The Nativity, but this was changed to The Assumption at the beginning of the 19th century.

It is an ancient edifice, but has often been restored and altered. The original 5th-century church, which it replaced, was built on the ruins of a Roman castrum, like those of Rheims, Metz and TrÈves.

The Cathedral was consecrated in 1147 by Pope EugeniusIII., assisted by eighteen cardinals and St.Bernard. The plans were made by the Rhenish architect Garin, and, contrarily to French practice, included two transepts and two apses. With its four similar spires, two on each choir, it looked, according to a popular saying, like a “bahut” (chest of drawers on legs), turned upside down.

The fire of 1755 caused important alterations to be made which, without suppressing the main lines of the Cathedral, disfigured the interior. These alterations explain the lack of harmony in the edifice.

The four Roman towers with spires disappeared after 1755. Only the two western towers were replaced by the present large ones.

The Cathedral did not greatly suffer from the bombardment of 1916, during the German offensive, but that of April–May, 1917, damaged it very seriously. The vaults were either pierced or brought down, and the roof destroyed. Near the apsis a big shell tore open the ground, bringing to light an unknown subterranean passage or crypt.

The tourist, arriving at the Place de la CathÉdrale, via the Rue de la Belle-Vierge (see Itinerary, p.31), finds himself in front of the North FaÇade (photo below).

In the middle is the entrance portal; on the right, the Western Transept and the Towers enclosing the remarkable, square-shaped old Choir; on the left, the Eastern Transept and polygonal apsis of the Great Choir (photo below).

In front of the Towers, on the right of this photograph, is the entrance to Margueritte College, giving access to the Bishop’s Palace and the Cloister (see pp.49–51).

The Entrance Portal

(North Front)

The Gable and Buttresses of the portal are 13th century. Its secular ornamentation replaced, in the 18th century, Gothic statues, which were destroyed as uncouth.

The portal is placed between two chapels; that on the right (16th century) is called “The Chaplet,” on account of the chaplets carved on the buttresses.

The Towers

The present bells weigh four and six tons respectively and date from 1756. They were so cast as to have the same proportions and tones as those of the St. Germain-des-PrÉs Church in Paris.

The Apse of the Great Choir

The basement is the remains of a Roman apse. The upper portion dates from the end of the 14th century.

The bas-reliefs are Roman carvings, re-utilised in the Gothic buttresses. From right to left they represent Adam and Eve; the Annunciation (the Virgin and Angel are separated by a tree, whose shape recalls the Tree of Life on the Chaldean cylinders reproduced on the cloth-stuffs exported from Byzantium); Cain and Abel (through an error in perspective, frequently to be found in Egyptian art, the bust and trunk of the two patriarchs are shown in profile, whilst the feet are facing frontwards); an unknown bishop.

The Great Nave and two Choirs

The Great Nave was very seriously damaged by the bombardments. Several bays of the vaulting fell in, leaving bare the timber-work of the roof in ruins.

On entering the Cathedral by the Central Portal in the North Front (see p.43) the old Choir (photos, p.44) is on the right, and the Great Choir with ciborium (p.45) on the left.

The old square choir is intersected by the great organ, as at Albi.

The decoration of the Great Choir dates from 1760. The marble balustrade (see p.44) is a copy of that in the Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris, and replaced the old lateral walls and rood-loft. The gilded canopy, which is a transformation of the antique ciborium of the Gallo-Roman churches, is supported by four twisted columns of grey marble. It is a copy of that of St. Peter’s at Rome. Behind it are eighty-six stalls in two superposed rows, and carved panelling (see p.46).

Stalls and Woodwork of the Great Choir.—Classed as an historical monument in 1905, this Rococo-style woodwork by Lacour of Toul is remarkable for its somewhat secular elegance and fine finish. During the bombardment of Verdun in 1916–1918 it was taken down and put in a place of safety.

St. Saintin’s Shrine.—This 14th-century shrine contains the relics of the first bishop of Verdun, and is said to represent the ancient church of the Premonstrants of St. Paul.

The South Aisle and Holy Sacrament Chapel

The numerous collateral chapels are 14th, 15th and 16th century. The most interesting is that of the Holy Sacrament. It was finished in 1402, and is Radial-Gothic in style.

In the neighbouring transept there was formerly a “puits” (well), which offended LouisXIV. when he visited the Cathedral in 1687. The Chapter had it filled up and covered with a stone, on which was carved the letter “P.”

The Chapel of the Virgin contains an interesting mutilated monument to Archdeacon Wassebourg, carved in the 16th century to perpetuate the true image of Our Lady of Verdun seated and crowned.

Enter the courtyard of the Bishop’s Palace by the door of the Margueritte College (see p.43). The Seminary seen in the background of the photo has been completely destroyed since 1916. The door with steps in front led formerly to a staircase descending to the Cloister. In May, 1919, this staircase was easily accessible, in spite of the dÉbris all around.

The Bishop’s Palace

This fine spacious building was erected in 1725–1755 from the plans of Robert de Cotte. It has two terraces and a garden, with a view over the whole town. Under the First Empire it was a senatorial palace.

At the time of the separation of the Church from the State it was turned into a museum. The latter contains a fine collection of medals and coins, also numerous fragments of the ancient Abbey of St.Vanne, which was inside the Citadel. These fragments include the remains of a Pagan altar, a Corinthian capital with Barbarian ornamentation, and an ivory comb with inscriptions, said to have been given by Emperor St.Henri to the Abbot of St. Vanne in 1024.

The Cloister (Hist. Mon. 13th and 14th centuries)

The door of Margueritte College and the courtyard of the Bishop’s Palace lead to the Cloister (see photos, pp.43 and 49).

Although Gothic in structure, parts of the carved decorative work announced the coming Renaissance (helmeted warriors and antique personages crowned with laurels).

Some of the keystones of the vaulting, representing bloated, bearded faces, are said to be caricatures of the canons of the Cathedral, made by the workmen who built the cloister, to revenge themselves for the Church’s stinginess.

The heavy Seminary buildings, erected on two of the galleries, are 19th century. They were almost entirely destroyed by the bombardments.

On leaving the Cathedral, the tourist arrives almost immediately at the small Place ChÂtel, the highest point of the town. Take, the Rue ChÂtel to the ChÂtel Gate.

From the ancient “FermetÉ” rampart, only this machicolated gate (formerly called “Champenoise”) is visible near the small “Place ChÂtel.”

On leaving the ChÂtel Gate, go down the Rue des Hauts Fins to the corner of the Rue Montgaud: Blockhouse for four machine-guns to defend the town.

Cross the Esplanade de la Roche to the Citadelle.

THE CITADELLE

From the Esplanade de la Roche, the arrangement of which dates from 1780–1783, there is a fine view of the Meuse valley and the prairies known as PrÉ-l’EvÊque.

The entrance to the Citadelle opens on the Esplanade de la Roche, while the Citadelle proper occupies the site of the ancient Abbey and Church of St. Vanne, erected in the Merovingian Period and 15th century on the hill where, in the days of Clovis, the Dragon with poisoned breath was said to live. According to the legend St. Vanne first tamed the dragon, then led it to the River Meuse, where it was drowned.

The first Citadelle was begun in 1552, continued under HenriIV. by Errard, and finished in 1630 under Governor Marillac. The second was the work of Vauban (1670–1682). The church of St. Vanne was included and preserved in both citadelles, but was later pulled down (1831–1835) by order of the Military Authorities. The old Gothic cloister was spared and turned into barracks in 1835. It was destroyed by the German bombardment during the siege of 1870. Of the Abbey, only a square Roman Tower of the 11thcentury remains (see photo below).

The Citadel during the War

During the late War, the Citadelle was often a target for the German heavy guns, but its deep underground vaults provided secure shelter for the population before the general evacuation, as also for the public services and reinforcements. Most of the regiments which took part in the battles of 1916 passed through the Citadelle.

It was in one of the casemates that the President of France, M. PoincarÉ, handed to the Municipal Authorities of Verdun, on September 13th, 1916, the decorations conferred on that City by the Chiefs of State of the Allied countries (see p.30).

On leaving the Citadelle, turn to the right immediately after the entrance and follow the glacis which passes underneath the terraces of the Bishop’s Palace. After a sharp turning near the Manutention, the tourist arrives at the Rue de RÛ.

Take the latter as far as the Rue des Gros-DegrÉs, one of the most picturesque streets of Old Verdun, which also suffered greatly from the German bombardment. It is composed of eighty steps, divided into seven unequal flights, with a hand-rail erected in 1595. The photograph below was taken from the bottom of the stairs.

Take on the right the Rue du Pont des Augustins and cross the curious canal of the same name (photo below) to visit the Lower Town, which is crowded with picturesque old streets and narrow bridges over the winding canals.

Return to the Place Mazel.

If the tourist has time, he may go from here to the St. Victor Gate, situated at the exit of Verdun, in the direction of Metz, Nancy, Toul, and Commercy (see p.56, and plan between pp.30 and 31).

From the Place Mazel to St. Victor’s Gate

(See plan between pp.30 and 31)

Cross the St. Croix bridge, take the Rue de l’HÔtel-de-Ville, then the Rue St. Sauveur, in which is the Hospice St. Catherine.

The Hospice St. Catherine was the birthplace of Bishop St.Airy. According to tradition the Bishop, on receiving a visit from ChildebertII., caused his last barrel of wine to be brought in. Giving thanks, he was miraculously able to satisfy the deep-drinking Franks for several days. (This legend is probably connected with the planting of the vineyards in the region of Verdun.)

Opposite the Church of St.Catherine is the colonaded front of the former CongrÉgation Notre-Dame Monastery, now a school.

Further on are the Church of St.Victor, Rustic-Gothic in style, and the Gate of the same name (photo above).

Stairs on the right of St. Victor’s Gate lead to the Citadelle Curtain16, whence there is a fine view of the city.