Pins No. 22, and the finest linen thread.

The front part is knit with 2 needles only. Cast on 208 stitches, knit 5 rows plain for the beginning. After these 5, you must diminish 1 stitch in every shell, so as to have only 192. Then 3 rows of the pattern, or shells, 2 rows of holes (for putting narrow ribbon in) before doing the pattern again, which is done in this manner: bring your thread forward, knit 2 stitches together, and so on to the end of your needle. Knit 5 rows of plain between these 2 rows of holes; when this is concluded, knit 4 rows of the shells, and then 2 rows of the holes the same as before, with the 5 plain rows between, then again 2 rows of the pattern or shells. You now take your two other needles, and increase 43 stitches for the back of the head; 2 rows plain, 1 row for putting ribbon in, and 3 rows plain, then knit 8 rows of the shells; the 7th row you must have 7 holes in each shell, and the 8th but 6. After this, seam the first and second stitches, knit the third plain, without taking it off, and twist it so as to make 2 stitches of this last one; then seam the fifth, slip the sixth without knitting, knit the seventh plain, and pass the sixth over, knit the eighth plain, slip the ninth, and the tenth knit plain, and pass the ninth over it. The next row: seam the first stitch, slip the second, knit the third, and pass the second over without taking it off, and knit it twisted; twist the fourth, seam the fifth, and knit the 3 remaining plain. After this row, knit 2 rows plain all round; after these, make a row of holes (for putting ribbon in) by taking 2 stitches together, and making one as before. First 3 rows plain all round, another row of holes, and then 3 rows plain. Then do the pattern 8 shells round the cap, and so continue until you have but 5 stitches instead of 9 (not including the 2 twisted, and the seamed).

After this row, seam the 1st, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, raise a stitch by picking up a loop, slip the 5th, knit the 6th, and pass the 5th over, knit the 7th plain, and take the 8th and 9th together, raise one stitch before beginning to seam.

The next row:—Seam the 1st, slip the 2d, knit the 3d plain, and pass the 2d half through, and knit it plain, seam the 4th, knit the 5th plain, slip the 6th without knitting, knit the 7th, and pass over the 6th to the left, and the 8th to the right, knit the 9th plain.

Then do 2 rows of plain knitting all round, 2 rows of the holes (for ribbon), knitting 2 rows plain to divide them, and 4 plain rows to finish with. Take off your stitches on a needle with coarse thread, and tie it up.

The pattern stitch:—First row:—Seam the 1st stitch, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, knit the 5th plain, bring your thread forward, and so continue for 9 stitches plain, counting the 5th for 1; by putting your thread forward, you will have 17 stitches.

Second row:—Seam the 1st stitch, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, and knit the 17 plain when with 4 needles, and seam them when with 2.

Third row:—Seam the 1st, twist the 2d and 3d, seam the 4th, slip the 5th, knit the 6th plain, and pass over the 5th; knit 15 stitches plain, including the 6th, and take 2 together at the 15th.

Fourth row:—The same as the 3d, with the exception of the number, which is 13 this time, diminishing at the first and thirteenth as before.

Fifth row:—The same as the fourth row, only 11 stitches instead of 13.

Sixth row:—The same as the fifth, only 9 stitches instead of 11.

After the 6 rows, you begin at the first again, the 6 rows comprising all the pattern.