Brief Notices on the Capitanias of Bahia, Pernambuco, Seara, Maranham, Para, and Goyaz.

THE capitania of Bahia, to the northward of Minas Geraes, comes next under consideration, respecting which, as I did not visit it, I have only to present some observations from the best information I could procure. It extends a considerable distance along the coast, being bounded on the north by the great river St. Francisco, which runs into the sea in lat. 11° south, and separated from the district of Ilheos (formerly a capitania) by the river Das Contas in lat. 14° south. It receives its name from the capacious bay on which its capital is built, and which affords excellent anchorage for ships of any burthen. St. Salvador, the capital, also called Cidade de Bahia, was originally the seat of the supreme government of Brazil: it consists of two parts, one built on low ground near the shore, where the commerce is carried on, and the other on a high hill, which being considered the most healthy, is the residence of all the people of consequence. Its population is said to be nearly equal to that of Rio de Janeiro, and is stated at not less than seventy thousand souls. The houses are built with latticed windows and balconies, similar to those in Rio de Janeiro. The churches are the public buildings most worthy of notice: they are said to be richly ornamented within. The government of the city is vested in a governor, who is nominated by the court for three years. Here all law proceedings, civil and criminal, come before the tribunal, called RellaÇas, the sentence of which is in general final, though appeals in certain cases may be made to a higher tribunal, called the Dezembargo do PaÇo.

This town is tolerably defended, also the bay, as well as circumstances will permit. On the shore is a royal arsenal, and numerous houses for stores, &c. The custom-house and wharfs are conveniently situated. Ships of war have been built here, also many very large and fine vessels for the merchant service. For these purposes a large supply of fine timber was (and, I presume, continues to be) readily obtained from the interior from the number of fine rivers which flow into the bay. The wood holds iron better, and is superior to our oak.

The manners and customs of the people differ little from those of the inhabitants of the capital; but it is said that in the best societies here, more gaiety and refinement prevail, and the higher classes are more sociable, than in Rio de Janeiro. A taste for music is general; there are few houses without the guitar, and all the more respectable families have piano-fortes. The ladies dress in the English style, and ornament themselves with gold chains: they wear very few diamonds; their favorite gem is the chrysolite. For deshabille at home they wear a kind of loose dress, over which they throw a veil on the entrance of strangers. They are considered as far less industrious than the females of the southern districts. The domestic dress of the men consists of a jacket and loose trowsers, made of light printed cotton.

Religious processions take place here, as in Rio de Janeiro, on great festivals and rejoicing days; and these festive occasions are distinguished by various amusements, which continue from morning to night. At these times the Brazilians have a custom of covering the walls and balconies of their houses with velvet or beautiful silks, embroidered with gold lace, in architectural orders, made and ornamented for the purpose; thus adorned the houses exhibit a most splendid appearance.

One of the most memorable seasons of rejoicing of late years was when the Prince touched at this city on his voyage to Rio de Janeiro, and remained several days. The inhabitants testified their loyalty and attachment to him by every public demonstration of joy, and by a display of all the grandeur and magnificence which they had means to furnish. As a more solid proof of their attachment and regard, they unanimously voted to subscribe a sum equal to a million sterling to build a palace for the royal family, if the Prince would condescend to reside among them.

The climate is always warm, but is refreshed by the sea-breeze, and is in some degree tempered by the long absence of the sun, the nights being of almost uniform length throughout the year. Though hotter than Rio de Janeiro, Bahia is considered much more healthful, having a more airy situation, and being better supplied with water. The practice of bathing is very general, and most of the houses have conveniences for this purpose.

Bahia is plentifully supplied with provisions. Beef and pork are in abundance; the former is decidedly bad, the latter tolerable. Fish are in great plenty and variety, and form a principal article in the diet of the inhabitants. Fish, with sallad, is the general supper of almost all ranks; even the rich desire nothing more for this repast in family. Numbers of retail shopkeepers, who sell wine, cheese, groceries, &c. buy fish and fry it, and afterwards retail it in small quantities. Poultry is in plenty, but not cheap; vegetables, and pulse of every description, are in very great profusion. The markets are well supplied with all the tropical fruits, many of which are said to be in great perfection, particularly the pine, the mango, and the banana; the latter is esteemed the best in America. Preserved fruits are in great abundance, owing to the cheapness of sugar; great varieties of them are sold in the streets, and two or three preserved limes in a cup of syrup may be bought for less than a penny. Even the lower orders conclude the meanest dinner with this delicious delicacy.

The soil of this capitania is peculiar, and is esteemed the best in Brazil for the growth of the sugar-cane. This advantage, and the conveniences arising from the numerous rivers that flow from the interior into the bay, have occasioned the establishment of many sugar plantations, undoubtedly the finest in the country, which have produced immense quantities of that article. The soil most adapted to the plant, and held in the highest estimation, is a black greasy loam, a deposit, containing a large quantity of decomposed vegetable matter.

The opulent and best informed planters have imported steam-engines for the crushing of cane, which will probably prove very advantageous, and cheaper in many situations, as they can at all times be worked, and are as easily regulated as a water-mill.

The mode of cultivating the cane has already been detailed. If planted in new soil, it is fit for cutting in fourteen months, but in old and poorer land it requires eighteen or twenty months. When ripe, the canes are cut and dressed by taking off the top leaves, &c. which afford excellent provender for cattle; they are then brought to the mill, which is composed of three wooden or iron cylinders, moving on their axes in a perpendicular position, and between them the canes are repeatedly passed until all the juice is expressed, and they are reduced to a mass of dry fibres.

The cane-juice is conducted through spouts to a large boiler or clarifier, where a certain quantity of alkaline matter, called temper, is added to it[66]. Afterwards it is conducted to the largest of a range of boilers, consisting of three, or sometimes four, one less than another. The largest seldom contains more than one hundred gallons. Here the syrup boils for a certain time, and is continually skimmed; it is then laded to the next, where it continues to boil until more of the aqueous fluid is evaporated; after which, it is laded into the third boiler, and is there sometimes sufficiently boiled without removing it into the fourth. They judge of its consistency by the touch; a little of the syrup is taken between the thumb and finger, and if it forms threads, and breaks on being drawn about an inch, it is supposed to be boiled sufficiently[67]. It then begins to granulate, and is gently laded into earthen pots of the form of a sugar-loaf, about two feet deep and ten inches in diameter at the open end, where, on cooling, it becomes concrete. In the lower end of each pot is a small hole, which at first is nearly closed; but after the sugar begins to cool, it is unstopped, and a piece of cane is put in to admit the molasses to drain. Soon after the moulds are filled, they are removed into an airy room, where they are placed so that the molasses drain into a large cistern, from whence they are conveyed into the fermenting vats, which are recepticles for all the refuse of every description in the sugar-house. In the process of fermentation much depends on the quality of the wood of which the vats are made; some of them bring the liquor into a proper state for distillation two or three days sooner than others.

The greatest part of the sugars made here are clayed, by a very simple operation, which consists merely in covering the sugar with very moist clay, the water from which percolates the mass, and carries with it the remaining molasses. When the earthy matter becomes dry, more is applied until the sugar is perfectly freed, and nearly white. This operation renders the article unfit for making loaf sugar. After remaining in the drying-house about six weeks, the moulds are placed with the large end downwards, and the sugar leaves them; they are then beaten down to powder in large strong cases, constructed of four entire planks, and the two ends, generally about eight feet long, and about twenty-six inches square[68], holding from fifteen to sixteen hundred-weight. The cases, when filled, are nailed down, and are ready for shipping.

The principal points to be attended to in making sugar are, first, that the canes be all ripe, and well cleaned from trash and leaves; next, that they be immediately crushed, and not suffered to lie in heaps to heat; and thirdly, that the rollers, and all the passages for the liquor, be well cleansed by washing as often as necessary.

A greater quantity of sugar is shipped from Bahia than from all the other parts of Brazil united, and in general it is of a very good quality; that from certain plantations is particularly so. It is not however, esteemed of so strong a body as our best from the West Indies[69].

The tobacco of this capitania is peculiar to it; and, by an exclusive privilege, no other part of Brazil was allowed to cultivate the same sort. It has given rise to much commerce, and has enriched many families. It was the most esteemed sort, not only in Portugal, but in Spain, and all her colonies, where it has been sold at great prices. Great quantities of it were consumed in Barbary; and on many parts of the coast of Guinea the demand for it was such that it was almost impossible to carry on trade for gold, ivory, gums, and oil without it. The mode of growing and manufacturing it is as follows:—First, a good piece of ground is prepared, the finer dressed the better; the seed is sown broad-cast, and when the plants are about six weeks or two months grown, they are transplanted into ground prepared as before. In eight or ten months they arrive at their full growth, and when ripe the leaves are taken from the stem, which frequently grows from four to seven feet high. They are laid upon the ground, or, in preference, upon any support which will preserve them from absorbing moisture, and admit a free circulation of air underneath. When they become in a slight degree withered, they are twisted with a strong winch, the end of one leaf uniting with the other, and the twist is coiled into a roll weighing from thirty to forty pounds. By this operation the juice of the leaf is expressed, which is viscid, and when oxidated becomes of a black color, not unlike molasses. The tobacco, after this last operation, is fit for commerce.

It is an object highly worthy the attention of the Portuguese government, to introduce other modes of curing tobacco. There can be no doubt that the soil and climate are congenial to it, and, were it properly prepared, it would probably equal any in Virginia, and become as great an article of commerce among the northern nations. Should such a commerce be pursued, how many cargoes of this commodity alone would arrive in our ports, and from thence be distributed to the different markets of Europe!

Cotton has of late been grown here in considerable quantities, and has been sent to England at nearly the same price with that grown in Pernambuco, and its plantations are daily increasing and improving[70].

Here are many plantations of coffee, but it is not esteemed so fine as that from Rio de Janeiro. Rice is produced in tolerable quantity, and its quality is superior: but the husk is so difficult to separate from the grain, that a great part is bruised in the operation, and is thus rendered of less value. The method of cleaning it is bad. Why not apply such mills as those used in Carolina, of which there is now one working at Maranham by steam, that has improved the quality of rice so materially, that it now sells in Europe for nearly the same price as the North American.

The beautiful dye-wood, called Brazil-wood, is shipped from this port and Pernambuco, of a quality much superior to that of Rio de Janeiro. This is one of the articles prohibited from general commerce, being the property of the royal household. Fustic in small quantities is brought from the interior.

The indigo made here is so far inferior to that imported from India as scarcely to be worth mentioning. It is owing to the great quantity of lime in it. There is a general opinion among all who make indigo, that some part of the process is very prejudicial to the health of the negroes, who frequently become sick, and often die while employed in it, which is most probably owing to deleterious gas which escapes during fermentation.

Bahia has a considerable trade with all the ports on the coast, from whence are exported various articles, the prices of which are continually fluctuating. A great number of fine brigs and smaller vessels are employed in this trade.

Produce to a considerable amount was exported to the River Plata, from whence a great quantity of hides and tallow were returned.

The imports to Bahia from Europe consist in general of the same articles with those specified in the description of Rio de Janeiro. In this capitania was found the largest piece of native copper that has ever appeared, being in weight upwards of 2,000lbs. It was discovered several years ago by some persons who were preparing to wash for gold.

To the north of Bahia are the capitanias of Pernambuco, SearÁ, and Maranham, the interior of which is very little known, though some parts of the coast are tolerably populous. Pernambuco, though situated nearly in the latitude of eight degrees, is considered healthy. The town is built on a rising ground, much exposed, and constantly refreshed by the sea-breeze. It has many excellent edifices, and is supposed to contain more opulent merchants, in proportion to population, than any other place in Brazil. It produces vanilla, cocoa, and a considerable quantity of sugar; but the chief article of its trade is cotton, which for many years had the reputation of being superior to any other, but of late it has much deteriorated, from neglect, either in the growth, or in the gathering the pods and cleaning it from the seeds, or probably from general inattention to the whole management of it. The cotton, when ready for packing, is pressed into raw hides, so hard as to form very heavy packages. The operation is superintended by an officer authorised by Government, who puts a stamp upon it describing its quality, which enables the shipper to pass it through the custom-house, where it pays a heavy duty on exportation.

The district of SearÁ is but little known, it enjoys an extensive trade in cotton and sugar. Maranham, though a very small district, has of late raised itself considerably into eminence by the cultivation of cotton, the other productions are the same as those of Pernambuco. Cotton and rice are the staple articles, with some cocoa and sugar, numerous cargoes of which are annually exported.

The dye-wood of these districts is considered excellent, and is sometimes shipped from this coast. The tree which produces the annatto is very common, and the seeds from which it is washed are of the best quality, and might be obtained in great abundance. Cocoa may be grown in any quantity; capsicum, pimento, ginger, &c. are very plentiful.

The markets are well stored with fish and meat, the latter very indifferent in its kind. Poultry, vegetables, and fruits, are in great abundance.

St. Louis, the capital, is built upon an island, and is esteemed healthy, though so near the equator. Several rivers run into the bay, which afford an eligible conveyance for the produce of the vicinity. The island is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants, and the population in the rivers is by no means inconsiderable.

The capitania of ParÁ, is considered the largest in Brazil: its extent is imperfectly known. The principal town is called Belem, where the governor resides, and, its government being superior, it may be said to preside over several of the neighbouring districts. The land is low and unhealthy, the great river, or port, is much interrupted by shoals and currents. It is a dangerous coast, and exposed to a continual swell, so as to render it hazardous for ships to anchor upon it, as they roll so much that they not only endanger their masts, but are subject to strain.

The town of ParÁ is situated on the river Tocantines, the navigation of which is difficult, and is seldom attempted, except by small craft: the Confiance sloop of war with great care sailed up it, and anchored near the town, several days previous to the expedition against Cayenne. The town may contain ten thousand inhabitants, who are in general very poor, probably from want of commerce: for although the great rivers Tocantins and Amazons have their source, the latter in Peru, and the former in the capitania of Goyaz, though they receive almost millions of inferior streams in their course through immense tracts of territory, yet they are not productive of any commerce of consequence. The exports from ParÁ consist of a considerable quantity of rice, cocoa, cotton, drugs, hides of various sorts, woods, and a few other articles. The trade is much on the increase, and it is to be hoped, that from its vast internal communications, it may be greatly extended, and more ships loaded for Europe, as a cargo is generally rather precarious, and sometimes difficult to be obtained.

The climate is hot, as may well be supposed, from its lying so near the equinoctial. Thunder, with lightning and rain, occurs generally every afternoon, when the air becomes more cool, and the heat less disagreeable.

On conversing with creditable men who had lived many years at ParÁ, Maranham, and upon the coast, I never heard them relate the strange accounts of the Indians which Estalla has related. As a Spaniard, he seems to be amusing the public with the actions of his own countrymen in Chili, and to aim, in common with all the writers of his nation, to prejudice the world against the Portuguese.

The capitania of Goyaz is bounded chiefly by Minas Geraes on the east, Matto Grosso on the west, and ParÁ on the north. Its greatest extent in length is from lat. 6° south to 21°. Villa Boa, its principal town, is situated in lat. 16° south, about eighty leagues to the west of Paracatu, from whence there is a good road. Here is a permutation-house, where all the gold found in the capitania is permuted. The governor is elected for three years, after which he is generally appointed to Bahia or Minas Geraes. In the capitania are many gold mines, some of which produce gold of a very fine quality. Diamonds have been found in some parts, which are different in their appearance from those found in Cerro do Frio, having more brilliancy on their exterior; but when cut, they are not in general of so pure a water, though of a very desirable size. As this fine district is so distant from the coast, it has very little commerce in any of its productions, except the valuable substances above mentioned, and cattle, which are bred on the frontiers; also some cotton, and occasionally a few particular articles, which are sent to Rio de Janeiro. The mules on the return-journey, are all loaded with salt, iron, cheap cotton-prints, woollens (particularly baizes), hats, fire-arms, powder, and shot, and a variety of artificers’ tools. When any of the inhabitants have any thing peculiarly precious to dispose of, they generally take it to Rio de Janeiro, and lay out the proceeds chiefly in the purchase of negroes, (they being at all times the first object), iron, salt, and other commodities.

The population is very small in comparison to the extent of the district, but is likely to be increased by new settlers; although the indigent in Villa Rica, Tejuco, and other places in the mining country, are little inclined to remove out of society, even for the chance of riches: in fact, having no negroes fit to work, and being totally destitute of exertion themselves, all situations are to them indifferent. These are by no means the class of people who can be styled adventurers. The poorer class of inhabitants who have obtained a small portion of gold, sometimes make a journey to Paracatu or Villa Rica, to purchase what negroes they want. This capitania has been very little explored, and scarcely any thing is known of its productions beyond what is above stated; indeed, it is not unreasonable to presume that the soil contains the same variety of metals as the district of Minas Geraes. Many persons from thence, with whom I have conversed, speak of it with delight as being a fine country, having numerous rivers well stored with fish, woods abounding with fine birds, which afford excellent diversion to the sportsman; also a great variety of animals.

This capitania communicates with Matto Grosso, S. Paulo, and ParÁ, by rivers which are navigable, though frequently interrupted by falls.