Account of the Capitania of Rio Grande.

THE capitania of Rio Grande is one of the most important in Brazil. It is of considerable extent, and is bounded by the capitania of S. Paulo on the north, Matto Grosso on the west, and by the Spanish territories, between it and the Rio de la Plata, on the south.

Its port is situated about 32° south; it is dangerous to enter, first from its being shoal water, and next, from a violent sea always running, and from the shifting of the sands. Notwithstanding these inconveniences, there is a great trade carried on from this place to all the ports of Brazil, in brigs and small vessels that do not draw above ten feet water. After passing the bar, which is long, they enter into an inland sea, or lagoon, of deep water, and navigate to the north and west to its head, where the principal river runs into it. To the southward is the lagoon Meni, and the neutral ground; a little to the southward of which is the Spanish fortress of Santa Theresa, lately put in repair.

The principal town is defended by many forts, some of which are upon islets. Since it was taken from the Spaniards by General Coimbra, the Portuguese have much strengthened it, and now there is a very considerable force of cavalry, horse-artillery, and foot-soldiers; so that at a short notice, with the addition of the militia, a body of five or seven thousand men might be calculated upon.

The climate is considered very fine, and the soil so productive, that this district may be called the granary of Brazil; the wheat grown here is shipped to all the ports on the coast where bread is used. Farming, however, is carried on in so slovenly a manner, that the grain is always rough, bad skinned, and extremely foul. It is packed in raw hides, which are sewed up like sacks; it swells, and heats frequently on the passage from Rio Grande to the more northerly ports; and often, after landing in Rio de Janeiro, it is left on the quay exposed for days to the rain.

The vicinity of Rio Grande is extremely populous; in a circuit of twenty leagues, the inhabitants, including the troops, are estimated at 100,000. Their principal occupations are, the breeding of cattle, for which the immense tract of pastureland is so well calculated; the drying and preparing of hides, and the making of charque, or what is called, in the river Plata, jug-beef. It is prepared in the following manner:—After the ox is skinned, the flesh is stripped from the bones in as large flakes as possible, in some degree resembling sides of bacon: it is put into hot brine, where it remains from twelve to forty hours, according to the thickness. It is then taken out, drained, and dried in the sun, afterwards shipped to all parts of Brazil. It is a general article of consumption among the lower classes and negroes, and is not unfrequently seen at respectable tables, being in taste somewhat similar to hung-beef. It constitutes the general food for the sailors, and forms part of almost every cargo sent out from this port. It has found its way to the West Indies, where it is in great request, and has been frequently sold, during the war, at nine-pence or a shilling per pound. The charque prepared at Rio Grande is much superior to that brought from the river Plata. During the time that the English troops were in possession of Monte Video, in consequence of an apprehension that the cattle might be driven away, and they be in want of supplies, large quantities were contracted for at S. Pedro, which arrived at Monte Video, though not wanted. They were afterwards shipped for the West India market.

The quantity of hides exported from hence is almost incredible; they furnish many vessels with entire cargoes, which are carried to the northern ports, and from thence embarked for Europe. The annual average may be estimated at not less than three hundred thousand.

Tallow forms another considerable article of commerce, which in general is shipped in the crude state, and not refined, as in the river Plata. The greater part is consumed in Brazil, and the dealers find it preferable to refine the article on the spot, where they manufacture it into candles. It is packed in waste raw-hide packages.[77]

Horns and horse-hair form an inferior branch of the commerce, and are shipped from this port in great quantities.

The above are the staple productions of Rio Grande, which give employment perhaps to a hundred sail of coasters, some of which make two or three voyages in a year, carrying thither rum, sugar, tobacco, cotton, rice, coarse manufactured cotton, sweet meats, &c.[78]

Of European merchandise, they bring wine, olive-oil, glass, and a great variety of English commodities, particularly iron, (though they much prefer the Swedish), baizes, coatings, stout woollen cloths, Manchester velverets of various qualities and colors, printed cottons, calicoes, muslins, handkerchiefs, silk, cotton, and worsted hosiery, hats, flannels, &c.

Sail-cloth, cordage, anchors, tar, paints, fowling pieces, ammunition of all sorts, hardware of every description, particularly slaughter-knives, some plated ware, and fancy articles. A great part of the goods are conveyed upon horses into the interior, where they are carried from house to house for sale or exchange.

During the old system, so lately as within these four years, a most lucrative trade was here carried on with the Spaniards, who came in numbers, and most eagerly bought up the tobacco, and such of the English manufactures as could be transported on horseback, at great prices. Thus Rio Grande and its vicinity became very enviable situations, where considerable fortunes were made in a little time, as the goods bought were much in request, though contraband, and were paid for in specie. This trade, so advantageous to each party, is now entirely ruined through the eagerness of our speculators in over-stocking the markets, and selling for two what would have been eagerly bought for six.

The neighbourhood of the capital is an unpleasant place, being surrounded with sand and sandhills of no inconsiderable size, formed by the wind blowing the sand in heaps in various directions, which become half indurated, and appear stratified. The excessively high winds, which frequently prevail, blow the sand so as to be very disagreeable, as it enters every part of the house.

The cattle bred in this capitania are very numerous, and large herds are brought hither from the Spanish frontiers.

The large river Uruguay rises in this capitania, and empties itself into the river Plata, a little above Buenos Ayres; there are numerous others of less consequence, the banks of which are well stored with wood. Some attempts were lately made, by miners sent from Villa Rica, to work gold-washings. In the neighbourhood of the capital they have coal, a specimen of which I have seen. From the same district, a gentleman shewed me a substance which he could not define; on seeing it, I asked him if he was certain that it came from thence; he assured me that he was: I then told him that it was wolfram; and stated that this metal strongly indicated tin, of which it is frequently an attendant in Europe, though probably it may not be so in America. It was a rude lump, not rounded by friction, and weighed at least a pound. Of the geology and general features of the rocks of this capitania very little is known.

In various parts jaguars, and other beasts of prey, are very common. Among the graniverous animals are capivaras of great size, deer in vast herds, and armadillos, which afford excellent eating when roasted. Of birds, there are ostriches of the dark-colored species, which go about in flocks of great numbers. There are eagles, hawks, and other birds of prey, particularly a species of crow of the vulture kind. Cranes, storks, wild turkeys, ducks, partridges, horned plovers, goat-suckers, horned owls, small parrots, cardinals, humming birds, &c. are found in great numbers.

The inhabitants are, generally speaking, athletic and robust, and so extremely fond of riding, as not to go the smallest distance on foot. They are esteemed excellent horsemen, and greatly surpass their neighbours in dexterity and agility, particularly in catching cattle with the balls and the lazo. But it ought to be understood that the Spaniards have Peons on their farms, who are more nearly allied to the Indians than to them, whereas the Portuguese have Creolians, bred up to the business, or expert negroes, who are inferior to none in this labor.

It is singular to Europeans, that in this fine climate, where the thermometer is frequently below 40° Fahrenheit, and where are bred as fine cows as any in the world, and every convenience is at hand for dairies, neither butter nor cheese is made, except on particular occasions; nor is milk even for coffee to be procured at all times. It may probably be urged that the production of these articles would not answer the purpose of the farmers: but certainly it might be made to do so; and I hesitate not to say, that a hundred cows, kept for dairy purposes, would yield to any man capable of rearing, training, and managing them, a greater profit than any other part of husbandry. This colony might easily be made to supply the neighbouring districts, and even the whole of Brazil, with these articles.

A number of years ago some hemp was grown here by order of Government: it proved excellent, but was abandoned because it was troublesome to dress, and probably did not yield sufficient profit, owing to the high price of labor.

In some places grapes are very good, and probably wine will soon be made from them, as the restraint laid by the mother-country upon her colonies is now removed.

Troops have been for a considerable time pouring into Rio Grande, the result was, Monte Video taken possession of by the Portuguese. This so enraged Artigas, a Spanish officer and great land owner, that he rallied the inhabitants of the country, and, being joined by the Peons and negroes, made war against the new possessors, (from whom he had probably received indignities and injury), issuing orders for reprisals at sea, and carrying on a desolating warfare. But this was not all—his people, under no discipline, plundered the good Fazendistas, and robbed and murdered private individuals; thus changing the scene from peace, happiness, and contentment, to anarchy, confusion, rapine, plunder, and murder.

A great many rivers run into Rio Grande, which has more the appearance of a vast lake or inland sea than a river. On the banks of these rivers we find many settlers enjoying most beautiful situations, and lands to a great extent. Here may be said to be the finest situations for growing wheat; falls of water for mills, and excellent water conveyance to ships wanting cargoes, who might with the greatest facility load and transport it all over Brazil, the Cape, Isle of France, &c. An active people would soon enjoy a trade of their own instead of importing flour from the United States, which is even now the case.