Description of Rio de Janeiro.—Trade.—State of Society.—Visit to the Prince Regent’s Farm at Santa Cruz.

RIO DE JANEIRO has been so often described by former travellers, that, were I to confine myself to the supply of what they have omitted, or to the correction of their mis-statements, my task would be speedily performed, but, as I have uniformly chosen to write freely from my own observation rather than follow the track of others, I shall trespass on the reader with a more detailed account than he might perhaps require. It will, however, be recollected that the period at which I visited this capital, being a political Æra in the annals of Brazil, is sufficiently interesting to excuse, if not to justify me in the attempt to improve upon descriptions of an earlier date, though at the risk of a little repetition.

The finest view of the city is from the harbour[24], whence its lofty eminence crowned with convents, and the hills in its environs, interspersed with villas and gardens, have a rich and magnificent appearance. The royal palace skirts the beach, and is seen to great advantage from the principal landing-place, which is within sixty yards of its doors. This palace, though small, is the residence of the Prince Regent and the royal family: the mint and the royal chapel form parts of the structure. Parallel with the beach runs the main street, consisting of noble buildings, called Rua Dereita, from which the minor streets branch off at right angles, and are intersected by others at regular distances.

Some idea of the extent of the city may be formed from the population, which, including the negroes, (its most numerous portion,) is estimated at a hundred thousand souls: the dwellings, at the out-skirts, are generally of one story only.

The numerous convents and churches are well built, and rather handsome; the church of Candelaria, now finished, is in a superior style of architecture. The streets were formerly incommoded by latticed balconies, which had a very heavy appearance and obstructed the circulation of the air, but they have been taken away by order of Government. The greatest nuisances now remaining are those which arise from the custom of persons of all ranks on horseback to ride on the foot-paths, and from the preposterous hanging of shop and house-doors, which all open outward into the street, to the great annoyance of foot-passengers: I may also add the frequent pools of stagnant water, which, from the lowness of the site, cannot without much labor be drained away, and which, through the heat of the weather, often emit the most putrid exhalations. Water for the use of the city flows from the hills through aqueducts, and is distributed to several fountains in various public places. It is to be regretted that there are not more of these for the supply of the inhabitants[25], numbers of whom live a mile distant from any of them, and are obliged to employ persons continually in carrying water: many of the poorer classes earn a living by selling it. The fountains in dry weather are frequently so crowded, that the carriers have to wait for hours before they can be supplied. The water is good, and, when kept in large jars, drinks cool and pleasant. The inns and public houses are almost destitute of accommodations, and so very uncomfortable that a stranger will not reside in them if he can find a friend to take him in. House-rent, after the arrival of the Royal Family, became equally high as in London, owing, it should seem, to the dearness of building materials, and the high price of masonry. Timber in particular is unaccountably scarce, considering the quantity which grows in almost every part of Brazil; even firewood is dear. Provisions are in general plentiful, but not very choice in quality: the beef is very indifferent, and indeed bad; the pork is better, and, if the feeding were properly attended to, might be rendered fine; mutton is almost unknown, as the natives will not eat it[26]; the poultry of every description is excellent, but it is very dear. Pulse and vegetables of all kinds are very abundant, and the fish-market is not ill supplied. Turtles are frequently caught, as well as a great variety of fish; there are abundance of very fine large prawns. The oysters and muscles, though not equal to ours, are very tolerable.

Owing to its low situation, and the general filthiness of its streets, Rio de Janeiro cannot be called healthful. Improvements are now making which will in part remedy these evils; but other causes tend to increase the insalubrity of the air, and to spread contagious distempers, the principal of which are the large importations of negroes from Africa, who commonly land in a sickly state, the consequence of close confinement during a hot voyage. It is much to be regretted that the city was not originally built on the plan of those in the Netherlands, with canals for brigs and small vessels, which might then have been unloaded at the doors of the warehouses: such an improvement would have also greatly tended to the cleanliness and salubrity of the town.

The police is by no means ill regulated; and, from the attention which has been paid to it since the arrival of the court, there is every hope that it will be placed on a footing equally respectable with that of any European capital. The prisons are loathsome, and require the benevolent genius of a Howard to reform them altogether. One great step in favor of humanity has been gained: the inquisition has been abolished, and with it the spirit of persecution, so that no one can now be offended for his theological tenets, unless he openly insult the established religion.

This city is the chief mart of Brazil, and especially of the provinces of Minas Geraes, S. Paulo, Goyazes, Cuyaba, and Coritiva. The mining districts, being most populous, require the greatest proportion of consumable goods, and in return send the most valuable articles of commerce, hence innumerable troops of mules are continually travelling to and from those districts; their common burden is about three hundred weight each, which they carry to the almost incredible distance of 1500 or 2000 miles. Their homeward freight consists chiefly of salt for the consumption of the cattle, and iron for the working of the mines, and goods of all descriptions.

No colonial port in the world is so well situated for general commerce as Rio de Janeiro. It enjoys, beyond any other, an equal convenience of intercourse with Europe, America, Africa, the East Indies, and the South Sea Islands, and seems formed by nature as the grand link to connect the trade of those great portions of the globe. Commanding also, as the capital of a rich and extensive territory, resources of immense amount and value, it seemed to require only the presence of an efficient government to give it political importance, and this advantage it has now gained by becoming the chosen residence of the court of Portugal. The benefits resulting from this great event had but just begun to display themselves at the period to which this narrative refers; and the commercial relations of Rio de Janeiro, though considerably augmented, were still but in their germ. I shall proceed to state them according to the best information I was then able to procure.

The imports hither from the River Plate, and from Rio Grande de St. Pedro, consist in immense quantities of dried beef, tallow, hides, and wheat. Those from the United States are chiefly salt provisions, flour, household furniture, pitch, and tar. The North Americans generally send cargoes of these articles on speculation, and, as the market for them is fluctuating and not to be depended on, they frequently take them to other ports. Their provisions are commonly sent to the Cape of Good Hope. They bring European merchandize, which they exchange for specie wherewith to trade to China, and also take in necessaries on their voyages to the South Seas.

From the western coast of Africa, Rio de Janeiro imports wax, oil, elephant’s teeth, gum, sulphur, and some woods. The negro trade has been restricted to the kingdom of Angola by a decree of the Prince Regent, who has declared his intention of abolishing it altogether as soon as possible.

The trade to Mozambique is trivial; but, since the capture of the Isle of France by the British has cleared that coast from French privateers, it may be expected to increase. It affords many valuable products, such as gold-dust, brought from the interior, ivory, of which the Prince monopolizes the largest sort, ebony and other fine woods, drugs, oil, excellent columbo-root, and an abundance of various gums, particularly of the gum meni. The whale fisheries on the coast have proved a source of riches to many speculators.

The intercourse of this port with India, in common with Mozambique, has been much annoyed by the privateers of the Isle of France, and will therefore, in all probability, florish equally by their suppression. A voyage thither and back is performed with great expedition: one large ship of eight hundred tons sailed, loaded at Surat, and returned within the space of seven months. A voyage to China seldom occupies a longer period. The trade thither will no doubt be revived, and it is not improbable that this port may, at no great distance of time, become an entrepÔt for India goods destined for Europe.

Rio de Janeiro is conveniently situated for supplying a great variety of necessaries to the Cape of Good Hope and to New South Wales; indeed, of late years, English manufactures have been sold here so cheap, that it has been found more advantageous to ship them hence for those colonies than from home. Ships going on the South Sea whale-fishery touch here, and lay in large quantities of spirituous liquors, wine, sugar, coffee, tobacco, soap, and live stock.

The imports from the mother-country consist chiefly in vinegar, hardware, coarse linen, hats, silks, wine, and oil. From Sweden some iron, also pitch and tar are occasionally brought: it is preferred to English iron, particularly for mules’ shoes, on account of its greater ductility.

The exports consist principally of cotton, sugar, rum, coffee, rice, ship-timber, various fine cabinet-woods, hides, tallow, indigo, and coarse cotton cloths, in immense quantities, for clothing the Peons in the provinces of the River Plate. Among the more precious articles of export may be enumerated gold, in chains and other ornaments, diamonds, topazes of various colors, amethysts, tourmalines, (that are frequently sold for emeralds), chrysoberyls, aqua-marinas, and wrought jewelry.

This market has been greatly overstocked with English manufactures, in consequence of the sanguine speculations to which our merchants were incited by the late emigration. The supply exceeded the demand in a tenfold degree, and the excess gave rise to auctions, where goods were sold at unprecedentedly reduced prices. In proportion as English merchandize lowered, that of Brazil rose in value; and so great was the demand for it, owing to the numerous vessels waiting for cargoes, that within a year after the arrival of the Prince Regent, the price of every article of produce was doubled. Gold quickly disappeared; for the monied Portuguese, perceiving the avidity and impolitic eagerness with which the English forced their goods upon them, cautiously withheld their specie, and, by the alternative of barter, got rid of their own produce at a very high price, and obtained our merchandize almost at their own valuation. The losing party in this unequal traffic, though they had chiefly to blame their own imprudence in engaging in it, were loud in their complaints and remonstrances against the Portuguese merchants. A treaty of commerce was concluded, by which the duties on English merchandize were fixed at fifteenper cent. while other nations were to pay twenty-four per cent. ad valorem. A judge was appointed to attend solely to the concerns of the English, and to see justice done them: he was entitled the Juiz Conservador of the English nation. The person who now fills this important office is one of the most enlightened and upright of men; his official conduct, of which I have seen much, has secured him the respect of all parties, and has done credit to the choice of the Prince Regent, confirmed by the approval of his Excellency Lord Strangford. Further to cultivate and extend the interests of commerce, his Royal Highness has established a Board of Trade, in which are some experienced and intelligent men, to whose consideration every particular case, and every new regulation, is referred. One of the members of this Board, Dr. JosÉ da Silva Lisboa, has greatly distinguished himself by his zeal for the English nation, displayed in various publications on commerce, particularly in one dated May 1810, which contains a fund of solid argument on the principles laid down and acknowledged by our most celebrated statesmen and political writers. It is to be hoped that the diffusion of views so liberal, under the auspices of ministers, will banish that narrow-minded jealousy with which certain opulent individuals of the Brazilian capital regard the English merchants, whom they stigmatize as intruders; and that the general interests of commerce in this thriving colony will gain, through fair competition, what they have heretofore lost through overstocked markets.

The business of the custom-house, although still shackled with many troublesome and tedious regulations, especially with regard to small articles, has been considerably simplified; and in all cases, where a stranger finds himself at a loss how to proceed, he is sure to have every difficulty explained, and every obstacle removed, by appealing to the judge who presides over this department. The liberality and disinterestedness of this excellent officer are the more generally felt and acknowledged, from an apprehension of the inconveniences with which his situation might enable him to embarrass the trade, if he were inclined to a more rigorous execution of the laws.

In mentioning the advantages which have resulted to the English merchants from the liberality of the persons in office, I ought not to omit stating that much has been effected through the exertions of the British minister, who, while pursuing that conciliatory and moderate line of conduct, which gained him the esteem of the Prince Regent, ever firmly upheld the interests of his nation; and in all deliberations concerning them, reserved to himself the casting vote. With respect to individuals, it is true that he declined to be troubled on every trivial occasion, and scrupulously discountenanced every covert attempt at monopoly or peculation, from whatever quarter it came; but in great questions he acted with promptitude and decision; nor was he averse to use his influence in favor of a private individual, when a candid and manly appeal was made to him. Considering the peculiar circumstances attending his embassy, and also the jarring interests he had to reconcile, Lord Strangford conducted himself in a way highly honorable to his talents and character; and in continuing to merit the confidence of his own court, secured that of the Prince Regent and all his ministers. The treaty of commerce is a proof of the harmony which subsists between them, and may be regarded on our part as the most advantageous that, in the existing posture of affairs, could have been procured.

The harbour is easy of entrance and egress, generally speaking, at all times, as there is a daily alternation of land and sea breeze, the former blowing until about noon, and the latter from that hour until sun-set. Ships find here every conveniency for repairing, heaving down, &c. but it is to be hoped that docks will soon be formed, which will render the latter troublesome and dangerous operation unnecessary. There is an anchorage-duty paid, which forms an item in the bill of port charges.

Of the state of society in Rio de Janeiro, what I have to observe differs little from the description of the Paulistas given. The same habits and manners prevail at both places, allowing for some slight variation, caused by the greater influx of strangers to the capital. The Portuguese are in general rather punctilious and reserved in admitting a foreigner to their family parties; but having once received him, they are open and hospitable. The ladies are affable and courteous to strangers, extremely fond of dress, but less proud than those of other nations. In their mixed assemblies the utmost gaiety prevails, and is seasoned by that finished politeness for which the Portuguese are generally distinguished. The conversation of the best bred men, however, is more lively than instructive; for education is here at a low ebb, and comprehends a very limited course of literature and science. It is proper to add that, since the arrival of the court, measures have been adopted for effecting a thorough reform in the seminaries, and other institutions for public instruction; and that the Prince Regent, in his solicitude for the good of his subjects, has zealously patronized every attempt to diffuse among them a taste for useful knowledge. Under his auspices, the college of S. Joaquim has undergone considerable improvement: a lectureship on chemistry has been instituted, to which our countryman, Dr. Gardner, has been nominated by his Royal Highness; and it is to be hoped that from this appointment may be dated the introduction of experimental philosophy in that establishment.

Resuming my narrative, I am bound in gratitude to state that the reception I met with here exceeded my most sanguine hopes, and far more so any individual pretensions on which I could ground them. I must attribute it to the letter of introduction to the Viceroy, with which the Portuguese minister in London honored me on my departure thence, and which I presented to his noble relative, the Conde de Linhares, minister for foreign affairs. This distinguished statesman shewed me every attention, and granted me every privilege I could ask, so that, through his kind condescension, all went well with me. I may state this without incurring the imputation of vanity, since it is only one among the numerous proofs he has given of his disposition to serve the English by every means in his power.

A few weeks after my arrival, I solicited permission of His Excellency the Conde de Linhares to work an iron mine at Guaraceaba, representing at the same time the immense advantages which might accrue to the state from such an experiment, by opening its own resources for the supply of that useful metal. He in part assented to the proposal, but expressed a wish that I should previously devote a few days to an inspection of the Prince’s farm at Santa Cruz; and on my return make a report of the state in which I found it. While preparing for my journey, it was intimated to me as the Prince’s particular desire, that I should endeavour to establish a dairy on the principle of those in England, and direct the people in the management of it, to which I readily assented. Being provided with horses and a soldier to attend me, I set out on the journey accompanied by a gentleman named Paroissien, whose amiable disposition and scientific pursuits rendered him a very useful companion. After about fifty miles hard riding, we arrived at the farm about six in the evening, much fatigued. The accommodations we met with, fully explained to me the motive of His Royal Highness’s minister in enquiring into the state of his domain. Having presented my official letters, I was obliged to wait until ten o’clock before the slightest refreshment could be procured; not a dish of coffee was to be had; the only fare set before us was some lean beef half-boiled, certainly the worst I had ever tasted in Brazil. The mulatto who attended us engaged to have breakfast ready by seven next morning; we were in readiness at the hour, and though told it was coming immediately, we waited three hours, when just as we were ordering out the horses to Rio to avoid being famished, the repast was announced, with an excuse that it could not come sooner, because no milk could be procured.

I then took a survey of the establishment and rode over the grounds. The house, I was informed, was once a convent of Jesuits, who possessed also the extensive tract of land attached to it, which they managed much better than their successors, if we may judge by the remains of their undertakings. The edifice is neither large nor grand: it is built in a quadrangular form, with an open court in the centre, and galleries inside to the first and second floors. The apartments are thirty-six in number, very small, having been adapted to the use of the brotherhood, and since their departure only in a slight degree altered and decorated for the reception of the Royal Family, as their summer residence. In front of the house, to the southward, extends one of the finest plains in the world, two leagues square, watered by two rivers navigable for small craft, and bounded by fine bold rocky scenery, embellished in many parts with noble forest trees. This plain is clothed with the richest pasture, and supports from seven to eight thousand head of cattle. A considerable part of it lies low, and abounds with bogs, which might easily be laid dry and rendered susceptible of cultivation by proper drainage. The park occupies in its entire extent upwards of one hundred square miles, a territory almost as large as some of the principalities of Italy, and capable, by its proximity and connection with the capital both by land and water, of being rendered one of the most productive and populous in Brazil. Under the present system of management it is in a progressive state of deterioration; two small corners, the best of the land, one about half a league square, and the other more than a league square, have been already, through disingenuous artifices, sold off, and the rest may in no long time be sacrificed to men whose cupidity stimulates them to depreciate its value, unless proper means are used to thwart their nefarious designs.

The negroes on this estate, including all descriptions, amount to about fifteen hundred in number. They are in general a very excellent class of men, tractable and gentle in their dispositions, and by no means deficient in intellect. Great pains have been taken to enlighten them, they are regularly instructed in the principles of the Christian faith, and have prayers publicly read to them morning and evening, at the commencement and close of their day’s labor. Plots of ground, at their own choice, are assigned to each, and two days in the week, besides the incidental holidays, are allowed them to raise and cultivate produce for their own subsistence; the rest of their time and labor is devoted to the service of His Highness. The system of management, however, is so bad, that they are half-starved, almost destitute of clothing, and most miserably lodged; their average earnings do not amount to a penny per day each. A reform in the establishment might have been easily effected on the arrival of the Prince Regent, but it will now be very difficult, as the abuses have been tacitly sanctioned by the indifference of those whose duty and interest it was to correct them. In this extent of fine ground scarcely an inclosure is made; the cultivated lands are full of weeds, and the coffee-plantations are little better than a mere coppice-wood, in which the wild shrubs grow higher than the coffee-trees. The cattle are most deplorably neglected, and there is not upon the whole premises a horse fit for the meanest beggar to ride. Such was the state in which I found this rich and extensive district, which seems to have been destined by nature for the introduction of improvements that might produce, through the influence of high example, an entire change in the agricultural system of Brazil.

A short time after I had taken up my residence at Santa Cruz, the Prince came down, and on the day succeeding his arrival honored me with a visit, after which I frequently rode out with His Royal Highness. He one day did me the honor to express a wish that I would undertake to govern the farm; this proposal I begged leave to decline, on the ground of my inability to render such an employ compatible with my other concerns, suggesting at the same time the superior service I could render by working the iron mine. Notwithstanding this, the Prince, on the day following, gave me a paper, containing an offer of the whole direction of the estate, and stating the terms. The repetition of the proposal not a little embarrassed me; I was aware that, by refusing, I might probably debar myself from the prospect of any future favor, yet I anticipated enough of difficulty in the undertaking to make me decline it at all events. This dilemma occasioned me much uneasiness, and in order to remove it I applied to Sir Sidney Smith, who was then on a visit to Santa Cruz, requesting him to explain to His Royal Highness the circumstances which rendered it impossible for me to settle in Brazil, and to tender him the offer of my services during my stay. After some further deliberation, however, I was induced to accept the appointment, by way of trial, for a few months, under the express stipulation that I should act without control. On entering upon my charge I began by making such new arrangements as appeared conducive to the end for which I was appointed, but I soon perceived that instead of being principal intendant, I had a superior, who held me accountable to him for my proceedings, and manifested a fixed determination to thwart them, as innovations on the established course of things. But this was not the only inconvenience; it was expected that I should purchase whatever was wanted on my own credit; but I quickly discovered, that instead of being reimbursed, according to agreement, I was trifled with and at length in part defrauded. The person here alluded to, was one the managers of the Prince’s household; he could not bear that a foreigner should interfere in a concern over which he claimed authority, and hold a situation where real services might induce a comparison unfavorable to those which he contented himself with rendering. A detail of the artifices and insults which this man employed to disgust me with the situation, when he found I would not submit to be his servile drudge, would be tedious; suffice it to say, that, perceiving no chance of obtaining that discretionary power, which alone could enable me to be essentially useful, I peremptorily refused to act any longer. Alarmed at this determination, he at first strove to overawe and then conciliate me, but I had seen too much of his conduct to be duped by this stratagem, or to suppose that any cordiality could in future subsist between us. Imagining himself armed with royal power, he attempted to play the tyrant, but the reception he met with quickly forced him to resume his natural character. I did not hesitate to send in my resignation, and he had the mortification to find that the means he had employed to embarrass and enslave me, restored me to liberty.

In the letter which announced my determination to give up the employ, I thought proper to omit stating to His Excellency the Conde de Linhares, the reasons that led me to this step. Had that nobleman been apprised of the disagreeable circumstances in which I was placed, he would, I am confident, have done his utmost to remove them.

On my return to Rio de Janeiro, the Prince sent for me, and desired me again and again to return to Santa Cruz; I contented myself with a simple excuse; for that was not a time, nor was I in a place to enter into explanations. It is well known, that a system of intrigue prevailed near His Royal Highness’s person, which often tended to counteract representations on matters of the greatest importance.

In this place, I shall take leave to introduce some remarks on the province of Rio de Janeiro, from the pen of my friend, the Baron Von Langsdorff, His communication is dated November 20, 1820.

“The province of Rio de Janeiro, being situated on the confines, and without the tropic of Capricorn, is in general, in consequence of that situation, less warm than the countries which lie near the line. The whole territory extending 90 leagues in length and 35 in breadth is mountainous, with the exception of the district of Goytacazes, usually called Campos. It is therefore naturally divided into high and low lands. In the latter the heat is as great as in the other countries between the tropics, and consequently favorable to the culture of coffee, sugar, cotton, indigo, cocoa, rice, and other colonial productions, as well as to the growth of the most valuable trees of India, and of its exquisite fruits and spiceries, many of which have been introduced with success. The mango, the tea-plant, the bread-fruit tree, from the islands of the Pacific, thrive well here, as well as the camphire of Japan, the ginger, the cardamum, and the casawarine of New Holland.

“On the mountains, which rise to the height of three thousand English feet, which are covered to the summit with impenetrable virgin forests, and of which the smiling valleys are watered by limpid streams, the temperature is as various as the productions. The forests abound in game, and in every kind of wood for ornamental work. In the grounds newly cleared, the fruit-trees and plants of Europe, the peach, the fig, the vine, the quince, and the strawberry, are cultivated with surprising success.

“The fruits of the country are remarkable for their variety as well as their abundance. Here are bananas, plantains, guyapas, onenas, oranges, citrons, lemons, pomegranates, many delicate species of the genus Eugenia, as the pitangas, jambas, and cromischamas; besides an infinite number of other plants, still in their natural state, which require only the industry of man to improve and add them to the comforts of civilized life.

“In short, by its situation, its climate, and its products, indigenous as well as exotic, this country claims distinction as the most happy and naturally independent, on the face of the globe.

“With regard to climate, there is no winter or summer. The heat is never excessive, and there is no sensible cold. The whole year appears a continual spring. The uninterrupted verdure, the vivid and varied color of the flowers which cover the highest trees of the forests, and which, appearing to change their form and aspect every month, constantly surround us with a new world, and fill the most insensible minds with astonishment and admiration.

“Culinary vegetables and roots, as cabbages, radishes, turnips, cucumbers, melons, French-beans, potatoes, maize, mandioca, bananas, and various other products of the first necessity, may be planted and gathered every day of the year in the mountains as well as in the plain. As heat and humidity exist here in the most favorable proportions, it will be readily concluded that vegetation must be extremely rapid. Of this there are extraordinary instances. Father Correia, one of the principal farmers of this province, settled at Estrella, has sown a measure of rice, and gathered more than 500 in return. The writer of these remarks was astonished at seeing rice grown on high lands which had not been inundated. It appears to be sufficient that the soil be humid, and that the rains do not fail. The common return for maize is 120 or 130 for one. The coffee plant is easily cultivated, and in favorable soils begins to bear fruit at the end of two years and a half. It is not uncommon to find plantations of coffee trees, which yield from ten to fifteen pounds of coffee a year. Grafts from peaches form, in two years, trees from two to three inches in diameter, loaded with fruit. Baron Langsdorff saw orange trees loaded with fruit, raised within three years from seed. In the government nursery at Lagoa de Tristes, may be seen alleys of mimosa lebbeck, black wood, the seeds of which were brought from the Isle of France. Within three years the trees grew to the height of from twenty to thirty feet, and in thickness from eight to ten inches in diameter.”

The description extends into a multitude of details; but enough, it is presumed, has been given, to afford an idea of the fine climate, the fertile soil, and the richly varied products of this province of Brazil.