Percy F. Martin

Department of San Miguel—Portless coast—Indigo plantations—City of San Miguel—Cathedral—Water-supply—ArchÆological interests—Projected railway connections. Department of MorazÁn—City of Gotera—Mountains and fertile plains—Agricultural produce. Department of UsulutÁn—Physical characteristics—Volcanic curiosities—Surrounding villages—Populations—El Triunfo—Santiago de Maria. Department of La UniÓn—Boundaries—Scenery—GuascorÁn River—Industries—Commerce.

Department of San Miguel.

Cities.—San Miguel and Chinameca (2).

Towns.—Uluazapa, Moncagua, Chapeltique, Cacaguatique, SesorÍ (5).

One of the most diversified of the Departments of the Republic is San Miguel, since it offers almost every kind of scenery to be found in Central America: wild and rugged coastline, steep and craggy mountains, beautiful verdant valleys and at least one active volcano—active, that is to say, in emitting much smoke and more noise, but otherwise, for the time being, unobjectionable. The Department is bounded on the north by the Republic of Honduras and the Department of MorazÁn, on the east by the latter and the Department of La UniÓn, on the south by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the Departments of UsulutÁn and CabaÑas.

The "stately" offices of His Britannic Majesty's Vice-Consul at La UniÓn, one of the principal ports in Salvador.

There is no port in this section of the Republic, and the whole coastline is considered dangerous, and certainly looks inhospitable, being formed of numerous spurs running down into the sea from the mountains which guard it for practically all of its length. There are two volcanoes located here, one of which, Chinameca, is, and for years past has been, quiescent; the other is the ever-grumbling San Miguel.

In the peaceful valleys below are grown indigo, coffee, and sugar; timber is cut for building purposes; grains and any amount of fruits and vegetables are cultivated. There are likewise several important manufactures, such as saddlery and harness, boots and shoes, articles of tortoiseshells, pickles, lime-juice, cheese, and rum. The annual fair is held on November 21, in the city of San Miguel, and on this occasion the amount of business transacted runs into many thousands of dollars. The visitors include those from some of the neighbouring Republics, besides the people from all parts of Salvador.

An old and a remarkably interesting city is that of San Miguel, which was founded in 1530. Perhaps its early days were more prosperous than those which are at present enjoyed; for history shows that here, in times long passed away, great trade and industry were carried on, and much activity of commercial life prevailed. To-day a kind of peaceful stagnation would appear to reign for the greater part of the year, but still the people seem to be quite contented and fairly well-to-do.

The great wealth of the place formerly reposed in the indigo trade which was carried on, and which the invention of aniline dyes greatly helped to kill. One can easily trace where and how the superabundant wealth of the community was spent. It is to be seen in the magnificently wide thoroughfares, the well-paved streets, and the many yet handsome plazas and public buildings. It is possible still to pause and admire the proportions and the decorations of the Municipal Palace, of the Court House, the Hospital and the Market; while many are the imposing churches to be seen, those of San Francisco, Calvario and Santo Domingo among them.

For some years a massive brick-built Cathedral has been in course of erection; but it is still incomplete. The water-supply, which is abundant, is taken from the San Miguel River. I have been told that this water was not safe to drink; but I venture to assert that the statement is incorrect, provided the liquid be taken from that portion of the river which is not immediately adjoining the town and certain residences.

That the town otherwise is up-to-date may be gauged from the fact that it possesses both an ice-plant and an electric light installation. I am afraid, however, that neither are particularly well patronized by the majority of the people, who are very simple and unpretentious in their method of living, as in their dress.

Around the city of San Miguel are located well-maintained fincas, nearly all of which belong to native proprietors. Indigo and cacao are the most common products raised, and both thrive here amazingly well.

Antiquaries and archÆologists will find an extremely interesting field for their investigations around San Miguel, where exist numerous remains of a primitive and an industrious people. Already many examples of their domestic utensils have been found and methods of living have been traced; and at a private house belonging to an enthusiastic but discriminating collector of such articles may be seen flint knives, grinding-mills of hard stone more durable even than granite, and ollas of clay, presenting many interesting features of workmanship, far superior, indeed, to anything of the kind which is met with to-day. It is supposed that the ancient city of Chaparrastique was located in this neighbourhood, not more than a mile or so from the present site of San Miguel.

The city of San Miguel lies some three-quarters of a mile from the volcano and the river of the same name, the latter also being called sometimes the Rio Grande. It stands but some 360 feet above the level of the sea, and the climate is undoubtedly hot—sometimes unpleasantly so. San Miguel is about 107 miles east of the Capital, and is approached by a good cart-road. It claims some 23,000 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in agriculture of some kind, while they form an orderly community very little given to troubling the authorities, yet somewhat opposed to innovations or reforms of any kind. The native women of San Miguel are considered to be about the best-looking in the Republic.

The Government have, as related elsewhere, long had the desire to unite San Miguel, which claims with Santa Ana to be the "second" most important city in the Republic (it certainly is justified from a population point of view) with La UniÓn, its finest seaport, and to extend the line to the cities of San Vicente and San Salvador, thus securing an all-rail route from Acajutla, the most important western port, to La UniÓn in the extreme east, on the Gulf of Fonseca.[6]

It was sufficiently proved by Mr. Charles T. Spencer (now the Manager of the Salvador Railway Company) that such a line of railway was quite feasible from an engineering point of view, and that it could be constructed at a reasonable outlay. The kilometric distance from San Miguel to San Vicente would be (main-line) 102·2 (= 63·5 miles).

Department of MorazÁn.

City.—Gotera.

Towns.—Sociedad, San Carlos, Jocoro, Osicala, El Rosario (5).

This is one of the most recently created of the various Departments, having come into official existence in 1875. Formerly much of its territory was comprised in San Miguel. Even its name has been altered, since until 1887 it was known as "Gotera," which is now the title of its one city. In this year the name was altered to MorazÁn by decree of Congress, in memory of the last President of the Central American Federation, and who lost his life in his well-meant but fruitless efforts to bring about its resuscitation.

The Department is bounded on the north by the Republic of Honduras, on the east by the Department of La UniÓn, on the south by La UniÓn and San Miguel, and on the west by the latter also. Lofty mountains cover a great deal of the surface, more especially towards the north, the various chains crossing the Department from east to west. Towards the Honduranean border—that is to say, in the direction of the south—a number of fertile plains are to be met with, and these are mostly well watered by the Rivers Tocola and Rio Grande. All kinds of agricultural products are cultivated here, such as indigo, rice, coffee, sugar, corn, and a variety of fruits. It is also an industrial centre, there being established cordage, mat, hat, lime, and earthenware factories, the greater part of which, at least, seem to carry on a thriving trade. Labour is abundant, if not particularly well skilled; and the greater portion of the inhabitants are industriously occupied all the year round in following either agriculture or some kind of manufacturing.

Although a decidedly small place, containing something less than 2,000 people, Gotera is picturesque, and as clean as it is romantic in appearance. It is connected by a good cart-road with the city of San Miguel. There is likewise a volcano of moderate proportions, raising its crest 3,089 feet in height, and being located 13° 42' 54" latitude, and 88° 0' 30" longitude. Its history is not especially remarkable.

Department of La UniÓn.

Cities.—La UniÓn, San Alejo, Santa Rosa (3).

It was to form this Department that San Miguel had once again to give up a goodly portion of its original territory. It is now one of the most important of the Republic's various political Divisions, by reason of containing the port of La UniÓn, of which I give a fuller description elsewhere under the title of "Ports and Harbours" (see Chapter XIV.). Its boundaries are as follows: North, by the Republic of Honduras; east, by that Republic also and the Bay of Fonseca; south, by the Pacific Ocean; and west, by the Departments of San Miguel and MorazÁn. A great diversity of scenery may be met with, the mountains alternating with valleys, volcanoes with large open plains, and the ocean lending a blue setting to the whole picture. For true tropical scenery the Bay of Fonseca would be hard to beat, and its most beautiful portion skirts the shore of this Department. Unfortunately, however, there is usually a great deal of unhealthy miasma arising from the low, marshy shore, and from the mouth of the GuascorÁn River to the Honduranean boundary the whole district may be said to be unhealthy. Here and again one comes across dry and rugged spots, but for the most part the country lies very low, and it is extremely hot at almost all times of the year.

Located upon the picturesque peninsula which separates the Bay of Fonseca from the Pacific Ocean is the enormous volcano of Conchagua, towering up to a height of over 4,000 feet above sea-level, and measuring some twenty miles in circumference around its base. There are two magnificent peaks, one measuring 3,800 feet, and the other 4,101 feet. The situation is 13° 16' 28" latitude, and 87° 51' 46" longitude. This mountain was last in eruption in the year 1868, but to all appearances it is now perfectly quiescent.

Both industrially and commercially La UniÓn is of importance, much of the fine timber employed in various parts of the Republic for both building operations and cabinet-making coming from its forests, which nevertheless as yet have hardly been touched. Great potential wealth is contained here, and, in view of the proximity of the port, its forests should one day be intelligently and profitably exploited.

As to manufactures, the Department possesses lime, hat (palm-leaf variety), mat, soap, candle, steel, and other establishments; while considerable trade goes on in fish, and especially in oyster-curing. La UniÓn oysters are very delicious, and are much relished as a rule by foreigners, who declare them to be equal to the best Whitstable in flavour. The variety of fish caught off these coasts is not particularly large, but the quality is very fine. The cost of living in this Department, even at the port of La UniÓn, is cheap, and on the whole one may dwell there very comfortably, if climatic conditions be accepted philosophically.

Department of UsulutÁn.

Cities.—UsulutÁn, Jucuapa, AlegrÍa (3).

Towns.—Santa Elena, Jiquilisco (2).

This Department belongs to the eastern section of the Republic, and formerly its territory was embraced in the Department—or, as it was then called, the Province—of San Miguel (Ó Provincia) de Chaparrastique, now known simply as "San Miguel." It became a separate Department in 1865. It is bounded on the north and east by the Department of San Miguel, on the south by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the Department of San Vicente. Its area is 3,344 square kilometres which represents a ⁹⁸/₁₀₀₀ part of the superficial area of the Republic.

The central portion of the Department is very mountainous, the country here being crossed by a lofty range, north of which it is relatively level, but decidedly broken-up. In the south are found lowlands and a swampy coast, which during the rainy season becomes somewhat unhealthy. Within the borders of this Department are found three separate volcanoes—UsulutÁn, Jucuapa and Taburete. From a geological point of view the two last named are the most interesting, having small lakes of sulphurous water in their ancient craters. Roundabout, and especially in a deep and dry ravine which extends from the south-east of the village of Tecapa towards the River Lempa, are a number of active geysers which emit dense volumes of sulphurous vapours and columns of smoke, reminding one forcibly of some of the beautiful geysers in New Zealand, in the Roturua district.

The largest of the geysers at Tecapa is called "El Tronador" (The Thunderer), and this has formed a small crater of its own, from out of which is thrown a high and thick column of steam saturated with sulphuretted hydrogen and other gases, while the noise which accompanies the emission of this steam is deafening, and can be heard for many miles away.

The Department is divided up into three districts—namely, UsulutÁn, which contains seven villages or small towns; Jucuapa, containing four; and Santiago de Maria, containing seven. The first-named district has a population of some 12,000 inhabitants, more than half of whom reside in the city of UsulutÁn, a pleasant place enough, situated upon the right bank of a stream called Juano, but only at the moderate elevation of 420 feet above sea-level. It is also some ninety-five miles distant from the Capital. The number of buildings of an ornate character is considerable, for UsulutÁn was formerly a place of some pretensions, being the residential quarters of the authorities of the ancient Division of San Miguel Ó Provincia de Chaparrastique. It was classed as a "town" in 1827, and was given the rank of a "city" in 1860. Among the more notable buildings are a handsome town-hall, a school-house, and a minor University, where the higher education is imparted to a large number of pupils and students. A prison of some dimensions, and a handsome but small church, should also be mentioned.

According to some old Spanish MSS., which I was shown, this town was known to the Indians of 1574 as "UceluclÁn," and a large number of people at one time apparently resided there. Another very old place is Santa ElÉna, which dates from 1661; to-day it has about 3,275 inhabitants, the surrounding district and many smaller villages bringing up the total of inhabitants for the district to nearly 6,000.

There are over a dozen notable fincas round about, where maize, tobacco, rice and black beans are cultivated. Jiquilisco boasts of between 4,500 and 4,600 inhabitants, and even more important fincas, so far as size and amount of produce are concerned. Santa Maria de Los Remedios is also an old town, possessing some 1,750 inhabitants. Two important fincas are located in the neighbourhood, and engage the services of many of the labourers available. EreguaiquÍn, which is some 7 kilometres distant, has 2,100 inhabitants; OzatlÁn, another small town of very recent origin, being founded as late as 1890, having 2,000 inhabitants.

The district of Jucuapa, with its four towns and villages, is somewhat deficient in water, having only the San Francisco River to depend upon. Nevertheless the country is very fertile, especially in the immediate district around the volcano of Jucuapa, which towers up into the air some 5,000 feet above the level of the sea. The chief town has two schools of importance, a private college for the children of wealthier parents, a casino, a club, and a well-maintained hospital.

Estanzuelas, which was established as a village in 1815, has over 10,000 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the pursuit of agriculture. San Buenaventura, another village, stands much higher, and is possessed of a more pleasant climate and outlook over mountains and valleys. It has but 1,600 inhabitants, and among several distinguished Salvadoreans who have been born in this district is Dr. MÁximo Araujo, who has rendered great political services to his country.

The small town known as El Triunfo (also described as "San Juan del Triunfo") is an old-established place, and was formerly known as "La Labor." This is in a well-watered district, and many prosperous fincas are to be found scattered around. A fuller account of the port will be found under Chapter XVI., "Ports and Harbours."

The Santiago de Maria district is moderately well inhabited, but the town of the same name is small, and is little over forty years old. The neighbourhood, which has always been known as fertile, and which is abundantly watered by several rivers and streams, produces large quantities of maize, beans, sugar, tobacco and vegetables.

Other small towns in this Department are San Agustin, TecapÁn, AlegrÍa, BerlÍn and California. The total population of the Department was put in 1909 at 89,175, the district of UsulutÁn having the largest number, estimated at 32,275; Jucuapa came next, with 25,700; and Santiago de Maria third, with 24,600. The remaining 8 per cent. of the population were dispersed throughout the Department.