Department of La Paz—Characteristics—Zacatecoluca—Population—Former proportions—Districts—Towns—Principal estates—Santiago Nonualco—San Juan Nonualco—Climate—Water-supply—Santa Maria Astuma—Mercedes la Ceiba—San Pedro Mazahuat—Some minor estates—Small property holdings.

Department of La Paz.

City.—Zacatecoluca.

Towns.—Santiago Nonualco, San Pedro Mazahuat, San Pedro Nonualco, Olocuilta (4).

The Department of La Paz belongs to the group of central and coast (or maritime) Departments. It has a decidedly quadrangular form, and is bounded on the east by the Department of San Vicente; on the north by the same with that of CuscatlÁn and of San Salvador; on the west by the Department of San Salvador and by that of La Libertad; and on the south by the Pacific.

It lies between the parallels 13° 40" and 13° 18" N. latitude, and between the meridians 91° 4" and 91° 31" W. longitude, relatively to the meridian of Paris. The most northerly point is a small peninsula of the Lake of Ilopango, on the coast of the Tepezontes, and the most southerly is on the Pacific coast, at the watering-place called Los Blancos y los Negros. The most easterly point is at the River of San JerÓnimo, to the north of the highroad which runs from Zacatecoluca to UsulutÁn, and the most westerly is at the mouth of the River Lindero. The area of this Department is 2,354 square kilometres, or, say, about ⁶⁹/₁₀₀₀ of the area of Salvador.

The surface is fairly level towards the coast, and hilly towards the interior, but it is always accessible for transit. The low-lying land is found to be excellent for the cultivation of the sugar-cane, tobacco, cotton, indigo, and forage; while the high land is eminently suited for the cultivation of coffee, wheat, rice, etc. The forests of the Department enjoy a high reputation for the excellence of the timber which they produce.

The population of the Department of La Paz has increased with astonishing rapidity. In 1858 it possessed scarcely 24,000 inhabitants, while to-day it is almost three times as large, which is equal to an increase of 3 per cent, annually. The density of the population is thirty-one inhabitants per square kilometre, and the number of individuals of native race is nearly equal to that of the Spanish-speaking inhabitants.

Previous to the Independence, the greater part of the present Department of La Paz belonged to the Department of San Vicente. Towards 1835 the Governor of this State ceded the district of Zacatecoluca to the Central Government, so that it might form part of the special territory of that authority, a cession which not unnaturally displeased the inhabitants of the district. On the disunion, the Federation was established, and joined-up with that of Olocuilta the new Department of La Paz. In the year 1843, in direct consequence of the revolt of the Indians of Santiago Nonualco, and under pretext of a defect in the government, the new Department was suppressed and reincorporated in that of San Vicente. In 1845 it again separated; but in the following year, 1846, it was joined once more to that of San Vicente, remaining thus until, by the Legislative Decree of February 21, 1852, it was definitely separated.

At present the Department of La Paz is divided into three districts, which comprehend one city, four large towns, and about fifteen smaller ones, as shown by the following table:

District of Zacatecoluca: Santiago Nonualco, San Pedro Nonualco, San Juan Nonualco, Santa MarÍa Ostuma, San Rafael, La Ceiba, JerusalÉn.

District of San Pedro Mazahuat: San Pedro Mazahuat, El Rosario, San Miguel Tepezontes, San Juan Tepezontes, ParaÍso de Osorio, San Emigdio.

District of Olocuilta: Talpa, CuyultitÁn, San Luis, Tapalhuaca, San Francisco Chinameca.

In the lowlands or near the coast there are a number of old estates of unquestionable merit, and which in former times were famous for the indigo which they produced. To-day the principal agricultural industry of Zacatecoluca is coffee-growing, and the inhabitants possess upon the VolcÁn some magnificent plantations, the principal being the following, with the number of hundredweights of produce that they yield annually:

Those of SeÑor J. Rengifo NÚÑez, 3,500 cwts.; SeÑor JosÉ Molina, 2,000; SeÑora DoÑa Amalia Molina, 2,000; SeÑora DoÑa Teresa O. de Alfaro, 1,000; Dr. Don Fernando GÓmez, 1,500; Don Mariano A. Molina, 1,000; Don Fernando GÓmez, 1,500; Dr. PeÑa FernÁndez, 1,500; Don Pedro RodrÍguez, 800; DoÑa Josefa Buiza, 600; Don Atanasio Pineda, 500; the SeÑorita Dolores RodrÍguez, 500; DoÑa Teresa de RodrÍguez, 500; Don Atanasio Pineda, 500; Don Atanasio Pineda (h), 500; the Lopez family, 500; Dr. Don PÍo Romero Bosque, 500; DoÑa Josefa Molina, 600; DoÑa Mercedes Rubio, 400; Don Francisco Orantes, 300; Don Lisandro Torres, 300; the issue of Don Samuel JimÉnez, 300; DoÑa Mercedes RodrÍguez, 300; Don Octavio Miranda, 200; Don Catarino Ortiz, 200; DoÑa Elodia Jandres, 200; Don Justo Quintanilla, 200; General Don JosÉ MarÍa EstupiniÁn, 300.

The town of Santiago Nonualco, which has the title of "Villa," a name usually given to a large and important town, is also an ancient one. It is situated on high land, on the brow of a hill, 10 kilometres to the west of Zacatecoluca—the said highland measuring from north to south some 36 kilometres, and from east to west about 7. It is situated on a large tract of level ground, upon which, towards the north, are two hills—La Chorrera and El TacuazÍn; in the former is situated the cave in which the celebrated Indian, Aquino, took refuge.

Numbers of excellent stock and grain farms exist here, upon which are cultivated large quantities of cereals, and which formerly produced a remarkable quantity of very good indigo. Such are El Pedregal, La VanderÍa, TegÜistocoyo, Novillos, Ojo, Troncones, and Santa Teresa. A very ancient town also is San Juan Nonualco, situated to the west, 4 kilometres from Zacatecoluca, and about 100 metres above the level of the sea. The highroad leading from Zacatecoluca to the Capital of the Republic passes by here, and at San Juan it throws off a branch which runs directly to the port of La Libertad.

Among its best-known coffee plantations are—Las Nubes, San Pedro, El Consuelo, and Las Granadillas. There is also carried on a great deal of timber-felling, and there are some sawmills erected among the hills of Pilon and Caballito. In this district there are no natural springs of water, which element has been supplied by sinking wells near the pool of La Laguneta, formed at the time of the rains.

San Rafael is a town which was founded in the year 1882 on lands which were the property of the Obrajuelos, the portion belonging to the town being marked off by boundaries and landmarks. The only hill worthy of mention in the district of San Rafael is that of the Carao.

The little town of San Pedro Nonualco is situated in the hollow of a hill and upon the slopes of a small volcano, 20 kilometres to the north of Zacatecoluca. It enjoys a mild and salubrious climate, especially in the dry season; whilst during the rainy season there is sufficient humidity for agricultural purposes. The principal sources are—El Pringadero, El Pataiste, El Hiscanal, El Chinte, La Gotera (which last is that from which is drawn the water used by the town), La MontaÑita, Los Naranjos, and a number of other small streams which supply the country with an abundance of water.

Santa MarÍa Ostuma is a town situated on the slope of a hill which springs from the loins of the volcano of San Vicente on the north-west, and is 24 kilometres from Zacatecoluca. Its situation is very picturesque, the town being surrounded by beautiful perspectives, while its climate is fresh and healthy. It is divided into four districts—Delicias, Candelaria, Mercedes and Calvario. The principal annual festival is that of the patron saint, on February 2, the day of the Presentation, or Candlemas. The place has to-day about 3,400 inhabitants, and its prominent source of revenue is derived from agriculture, principally coffee and the pineapple, the pineapples produced in Ostuma being considered the best in the Republic. These are of the most choice types—the Castilian, water and sugar pineapples.

The town, or rather village, of Mercedes La Ceiba is bounded on the west by that of JerusalÉn, the middle course of the River Chilate, and on the remaining sides by the district of Santa Maria Ostuma. It has not more than 650 inhabitants.

JerusalÉn is another small place of recent foundation, situated about 25 kilometres from the chief town. Its lands are fertile, and largely intersected by streams of some importance. San Pedro Mazahuat is one of the large towns of the Department, and is the capital of the district. In the course of a few years it has attained a state of progress quite remarkable, due alike to the industrious character of its inhabitants and the fertility of its lands. It is situated upon rather broken ground, having on the east the River Tilapa, on the west the Sepaquiapa, and on the south the Jiboa, all of which contribute an abundant supply of fish. There are also several springs of fresh water, such as Apacinto, La Pina, and AmatitÁn. Two kilometres to the north of the town is the spring of Plata, where a dam has been constructed and whence water is conveyed to the town.

There are several notable estates, such as those of San Antonio, El Pimental, San JosÉ and Mira-Flores, upon which are cultivated various cereals, and a serious attempt at cattle-breeding is carried on. This last-named estate, which was widely known under the name of Rancho de Teja, was formerly, with that of Chanrayo, one of the most flourishing, and engaged largely in the cultivation of indigo. It is the place which was at one time known as Hacienda Nueva (the New Estate), and for the last fifty years it has been in the possession of the family of Aycinena, of Guatemala, as is also that of San JosÉcito. The lands of both these properties have to-day been converted into a number of small plantations.