Department of Chalatenango—Rich agricultural territories—Annual fair—Generally prosperous conditions—Department of CuscatlÁn—City of Cojutepeque—Industries—Cigar factories—Volcanoes—Lake of Cojutepeque—Department of CabaÑas—Scenic features—Feast of Santa Barbara—Department of San Vicente—Public buildings and roads.

Department of Chalatenango.

City.—Chalatenango (1).

Towns.—Tejutla, San Ignacio, San Francisco, MorazÁn, San Rafael, and CitalÁ (6).

Fully two-thirds of this portion of the country consist of mountain ranges, with long timber-covered spurs, very beautiful to the eye, running from their bases in every direction. The Department is bounded on the north by the Republic of Honduras; on the east by the same Republic and the Department of CabaÑas; on the south by the Departments of CabaÑas, CuscatlÁn, San Salvador, and La Libertad; and on the west by Santa Ana. The rich agricultural valley of the Lempa runs partly through this section, and many of the tributaries of that river water its ground. Immense tracts of agricultural territory are seen, upon which are grown successive crops of indigo, corn, rice, wheat, and beans. The several lofty chimneys which are observed to be dotting the country for miles around point to the active manufacturing that goes on. These establishments comprise distilleries, potteries, candle, cheese, and turpentine factories; while a large commerce is also done by treating a kind of wax obtained from boiling the fruit of a certain shrub which grows wild in this country and in great abundance. Here, as in most of the parts of Salvador, general prosperity prevails; one encounters hardly any very poor persons, either in the streets or begging upon the roadsides.

The chief city of this Department bears the same name, and it lies to the south-east of the lofty mountains of La PeÑa and on the rivers Tamulasca and Colco. The elevation above sea-level is about 1,660 feet, while the distance from the Capital is a little over forty-five miles north-east. I should say that Chalatenango is about the oldest native town in Salvador, and only in 1791 did foreigners and white natives commence to frequent it to any extent—these, it would seem, being sent there by the then Spanish Governor as a sort of punishment or exile. It would certainly be no punishment to abide there nowadays for a short while, since the surrounding country is remarkably beautiful, the people are very friendly and hospitable, and living there is absurdly cheap, judged from European standards. The population scarcely exceeds 6,000, and the whole of the Department probably boasts of no more than 54,000 or 55,000 inhabitants.

It is at Chalatenango that is held annually on June 24, St. John the Baptist's Day, the most important and most popular Fair of the year. Upon this occasion the true native life of Salvadoreans, the quaint and picturesque costumes, and many articles of barter which never see the light at any other time, may be met with. Anyone travelling in Salvador at this period may be recommended to visit Chalatenango, if only to witness this annual gathering, which is attended by people of every class from all parts of the Republic. A more orderly or a happier crowd it would be difficult to meet with, and, what is more to the point, they form a particularly clean-looking crowd. The fact is that St. John the Baptist's Day is the one day upon which every devout Catholic makes a point of having a bath—if at no other period of the year—and this may possibly have something to do with it. If it were of Mexico that I was writing instead of Salvador, I should say that this circumstance might possibly have everything to do with it.

Department of CuscatlÁn.

Cities.—Cojutepeque, Suchitoto (2).

Towns.—San Pedro PerulapÁn, Tenancingo, San Rafael, and Guyabal (4).

At one time this Department was the largest, or one of the largest, in Salvador; but successive rearrangements of the area of the Department for political purposes have robbed it of much of its original territory. It was established as a separate entity in May, 1855, before which it was made up of a great deal of land which now belongs to Chalatenango. Again, in 1875 it was forced to contribute a portion of its diminished possessions in order to form the new Department of CabaÑas. However, CuscatlÁn did not part with either of its two pet volcanoes—Cojutepeque and Guazapa—nor was it ever asked to do so.

Bordering this section are the Departments of CabaÑas and Chalatenango on the north, CabaÑas and San Vicente on the east, San Vicente and La Paz on the south, and San Salvador on the west. Most of its territory is richly productive, agriculture being carried on by practically the whole population in some form or other, and fine crops of coffee, sugar, indigo, rice, tobacco, cereals, and such products as starch and cheese, come out of CuscatlÁn, and find their diverse ways about the country. A great gathering is held annually in the chief city, Cojutepeque, on St. John's Day (not the Baptist), August 29, while the other city, Suchitoto, has its own particular gala-day on the Feast of the Conception, December 8, a good deal of friendly rivalry existing between the merchants and traders of each town. Buyers and manufacturers come to these meetings from all over the Republic, and very extensive are the transactions carried out in cattle, cheese, indigo, native products, and many kinds of foreign merchandise.

Cojutepeque, which is connected by road to Ilobasco and Sensuntepeque, is an extremely romantic-looking, and as picturesquely-situated, city, with a population of between 8,000 and 9,000 inhabitants. It lies upon the northern slope of the volcano of the same name, not very far from the summit. Although the situation is from a climatic point of view very agreeable, it somewhat interferes with the success of the water-supply to the town. The surrounding country is agricultural, and the markets bear sufficient testimony to the great variety and high-class character of the produce which is raised. Cigar-making is one of the most important trades carried on in the town, and the excellent quality and the delightful aroma of Cojutepeque cigars are known and appreciated all through Central America. One of the factories which I visited was managed and owned entirely by a lady and her family, all of good birth and sound education. Their factory was a model of cleanliness and orderliness, and many of the employÉs had been with the proprietors for a great number of years.

An exceedingly comfortable and well-maintained hotel at Cojutepeque is that known as La AmÉrica, kept by SeÑor Diaz, and whereat the guests are made to feel completely "at home." SeÑor Diaz is one of the good old-fashioned "Boniface" type of landlord, for, in conjunction with his charming wife and daughter and his young son, Cayetano, he personally looks after each individual who patronizes his establishment, consulting each taste and idiosyncrasy, and carefully pandering thereto. The rooms in the Hotel AmÉrica are exceptionally large and airy, while all meals are served to the guests in a delightful open patio, completely surrounded by masses of tropical bloom—great clustering rose-bushes, clematis, and honeysuckle, towering palms and sweet-scented orange-blossom—a veritable fairyland of colour and perfume.

The town is not only well built, but is conveniently arranged in spite of the decided irregularity of the streets, caused by the slope of the volcano upon which they are built. On three different occasions Cojutepeque has been made the Capital of the Republic, and upon one occasion—viz., November 6, 1857—it was very seriously damaged by earthquake. The three active volcanoes of San Salvador, San Jacinto, and Cojutepeque, have all contributed in their time to alarming and damaging the city. The last-named volcano is 3,351 feet in height, and is located in latitude 13° 42' 22" N., and longitude 88° 56' 26" W.

Lake Cojutepeque ranks second in importance as to size and scenic beauty to Lake Ilopango; it lies north-east of the volcano of Santa Ana, and is of a roughly elliptical shape, about four miles long and three miles wide, the major axis having a direction about north-east and south-west. This lake has no visible outlet, and its waters, although somewhat impregnated with salts, can be used for drinking without any danger. To every outward appearance the lake gives the impression that it had once been the crater of the attendant volcano, lying as it does upon its northern slope. This is more apparent from a distant view of the entire mass of the Santa Ana volcano, such as can be obtained from the summit of the neighbouring volcano, San Salvador. The present peak of Santa Ana from this position seems to have been built up from the rim of the ancient crater, which is now occupied by the lake.

General Juan Amaya, Governor of the State of CuscatlÁn, has worked very zealously, and with conspicuous success, to make it one of the most progressive of the various political Departments of the Republic. Under his direction, and with the active support of General Figueroa while President, new and handsome roadways have been made, pure water and free public baths have been introduced; the whole Department now presents the appearance of being under a highly intelligent and enterprising Government. General Juan Amaya was elected last May (1911), under the authority of Article 68 of the Constitution, Third Designate to succeed to the Presidency in case of a vacancy occurring during the present term (see p. 38).

Department of CabaÑas.

Cities.—Sensuntepeque, Ilobasco (2).

Towns.—Victoria, Dolores, San Isidro, Jutiapa, Tejutepeque (5).

This Department is principally of interest on account of the gold (see Chapter on Mining) which has been found, as well as the prosperous industry in indigo which is carried on there. It is bounded on the north and north-east by the Republic of Honduras, on the east by the Department of San Miguel, on the south by the Departments of San Vicente and CuscatlÁn, and on the west by the last named only. The greater portion of the territory consists of mountains, which take the form of lofty ranges and chains, giving a wild and picturesque character to the country, and in parts even a somewhat forlorn appearance. Particularly desolate are the eastern and northern parts of the Department, which, however, can boast in other directions of many beautiful and fertile valleys, which produce in abundance such crops as indigo, rice, corn, and several other kinds of grain. In regard to manufactures, there are earthenware, lime, cheese, and other factories, as well as one or two distilleries. A very active commerce is carried on; and here, as elsewhere in the Republic, the greatest day out of the twelve months is the one kept for the annual Fair, whereat one meets a veritable "gathering of the clans," the number of Indians who attend, for instance, lending great interest to the meeting. The rendezvous is at Sensuntepeque, and the date selected is the day devoted to Santa Barbara—namely, December 4. The Saint, as may be remembered, was a Christian Martyr of the third century, and the patron of artillery. She was beheaded by her father, who is said to have been struck dead by lightning immediately after the act, which was but poetic justice. Why the misfortunes of this young lady, however, should particularly appeal to the good people of Sensuntepeque I could not find out. But she always has been and remains their patron Saint.

Sensuntepeque is joined up with Cojutepeque by a well-constructed cart-road, which likewise serves Ilobasco. Another equally good road runs from Sensuntepeque to Apastepeque, in the Department of San Vicente; and these thoroughfares are kept in a good state of maintenance, especially in preparation for the heavy rainy season, when otherwise they would become impassable, and internal communication would be practically at a standstill.

The city of Sensuntepeque is situated, as are so many other Salvadorean towns, on a mountain slope, in this case the location being on the southern declivity of the mountain PelÓn, and at an elevation of some 2,310 feet above the level of the sea. It is located about fifty-seven miles distant north-east from the Capital. A decidedly picturesque little place it is, but one which contains, all the same, over 10,000 inhabitants, the majority of whom are concerned in the cultivation or treatment of indigo. The city has many handsome edifices—such, for instance, as the fine Town Hall, several Government school buildings, a prison (which, is a model institution of its kind), and several handsome churches. Additionally there are a very attractive parque, beautifully laid out with plants and green grass-plots; a capital public bathing-place; and a number of attractive private residences, solidly built, and faced with either stucco or tiles.

Very few foreigners seem to find their way to this place, which is to be regretted; for not alone would they be made to feel very welcome, the people being particularly friendly and hospitably inclined, but the climate has a most exhilarating effect, and for the greater portion of the year it is nothing less than delightful. Very little poverty seems to exist here, and, from what I heard and saw, it seems that practically every member of a family in Sensuntepeque is employed regularly and remuneratively in some kind of manner.

Department of San Vicente.

It would be no exaggeration to describe this Department as scenically the most beautiful in the Republic of Salvador. It affords almost every style of scenery—high mountains, towering volcanoes, delightful valleys, and a perfectly astounding collection of hot springs, or infiernillos. The Department is bounded on the north by the Department of CabaÑas, on the east by the Departments of San Miguel and UsulutÁn, on the south by the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by the Departments of La Paz and CuscatlÁn. One of the highest mountains—needless to say it is a volcano—is situated here, and bears the name of the Saint who founded the Society of the Lazarists and the Sisterhood of Charity. This most imposing mountain has a double cone, which towers very gracefully above the numerous attendant hills. It was last known to erupt in 1643, but it looks capable of a repetition of the performance in all its grandeur at any time. In height it stands 7,131 feet, and its approximate position is given at 13° 35' 24" N. latitude, and 88° 50' 31" W. longitude.

I first caught a glimpse of the majestic mountain while staying at Cojutepeque, but it was then a long way distant. There are two other volcanoes, Chichontepec and Siguatepeque—the former the highest mountain in the Republic—but they are pronounced to be extinct. The summit of this monster is 8,661 feet above the level of the sea, and it is notable for the number of active geysers which exist on the northern slope, and which continually send out volumes of steam accompanied by terrifying but apparently harmless terrestrial rumblings, which can be distinctly heard as far away as three or four miles. But the mountain is quite unoffending, I understand, the said geysers proving the safety-valves for its occasional internal disturbances.

San Vicente was created a Department in 1836, and its territory embraces a portion of what formerly formed one of the "territorial divisions" of the country existing under Spanish rule, while the eastern portion was originally part of CabaÑas. The amount of commerce which is carried on is considerable, and during the past few years has made decided strides in actual volume. Besides supplying a large amount of agricultural produce, such as indigo, coffee, sugar, tobacco, timber, cereals, and all kinds of fruits, there are several manufactories which turn out silk shawls, shoes, hats, starch, salt, and cigars, as well as sundry distilleries.

The annual Fair is held here on All Saints' Day—namely, November 1—and the city is then very gay from morning to night. Upon this occasion the transactions carried out between the permanent residents and the visitors run into high figures, quantities of local produce and merchandise being bought and sold, the articles of trade consisting mainly of indigo, cheese, cattle, grain, and the retailing of certain foreign goods.

The principal city, San Vicente, is a very picturesque and romantic-looking town, one of the oldest, if not quite the most ancient, in this part of the country, dating as a city as far back as 1658, while it was founded as a town in 1634. To-day, however, the streets have been straightened-out and well paved, while a number of very pleasant suburbs, each with its gardens and avenues of trees, lend additional attractiveness as one approaches the place from the main-road. There are a number of excellent buildings already erected, and several others of altogether imposing dimensions and structural pretensions were going up when I visited the town.

It has long been the desire of the Government to unite San Vicente with San Salvador by railroad, and the line would run via San Miguel, the second city in the Republic, and La UniÓn, its finest seaport, thus securing also an all-rail route between Acajutla, the most important western port, and La UniÓn, on the extreme east of the Gulf of Fonseca. The survey was made many years ago, and the line has been proved to be a practicable one, although the work would no doubt be heavy and costly, since much grading, heavy protective masonry, and many bridges, would have to be undertaken. The distance would be about 67·9 kilometres (42·2 miles) between San Salvador and San Vicente by this line of railway, and the cost of the line has been estimated at not less than $2,157,433 (say £431,486), or an average of $51,124 (=£10,225) per mile. The maximum grade in this location would be 2·8 per cent., and the sharpest curves 41 degrees (radius 410·3 feet or 125·1 millimetres).