CHAPTER XVIII Conclusion

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The story of Majorca has, in the course of its detailed narration, included attempts to describe the scenery of various localities of the island, the capital in ancient times, the mountains and caves, the towns and country houses. With the conclusion of the story we turn to the island as it is at present. We find areas of forest-covered mountains, which are calculated to contain 25,000 acres of pines, 12,000 acres of ilex, and 2,000 of carob-trees; at least, this was the calculation twenty years ago. The best account of the geology of these mountains will be found in the work of M. Hermite.28

Turning to the trees grown to support the people in the fertile plains, the same authority gives an area of 50,000 acres as covered by vines and 33,000 by almond-trees, besides apricots. The olives cover 86,000 acres—70,000 in the mountains, and the rest for the most part near their bases. The flora of the island is abundant and beautiful; and there is an excellent book on the subject by Don Francisco Barcelo y Combis.29

The people are the descendants of men who fought with En Jayme, increased by a certain amount of immigration—Catalans who speak a dialect of the Catalan language among themselves, but who nearly all understand Spanish. Among the upper classes the names of Moncada or Togores, Sureda, Cotoner, FortuÑy, Zaforteza, Despuig, Torrellas, Truyolls, Villalonga, are as prominent now as they were six hundred years ago and have been ever since. After a visitor has seen the cathedral and churches, the Lonja with its slender pillars, and the handsome Casa Consistorial with its frescoes and portraits of Majorcan worthies, nothing can be more interesting than to saunter through the streets and look at the old palaces of the nobility, with their quaint architecture, coats of arms, and picturesque courtyards. In front of the ‘Mercado’ is the great palace of the Burgues Zaforteza family. In a street of the same name is the Montenegro palace. In the narrow FortuÑy Street there is an ancient house with the name of Priamo Villalonga carved over the lintel of the door. Here lived the gallant defender of the royal castle against the rebels in 1522. The Villalongas are no longer there, having moved to a more modern abode in another part of the town. In nearly every street there is a palace or some other building which is interesting either for its architecture or its associations.

Among the leading people of Palma the name of Don BartolomÉ Bosch y Cerda, His Britannic Majesty’s Vice-Consul, cannot be overlooked, for his courtesy and kindness and his thorough knowledge of the island have largely increased the pleasure derived by many visitors from a sojourn in Majorca.

The best-known visitor—if His Highness ought not rather to be called a resident—was the Archduke Luis Salvator, whose magnificent monograph of the Balearic Islands is well known. Miramar has been mentioned as the abode of King Sancho, and afterwards as the place where Raimondo Lulio founded his college. But it is better known as the spot which the Archduke turned into an earthly paradise. He rebuilt the house which existed on the site of the former convent, laid out the lovely garden, and constructed roads and paths. He filled the house with old Majorcan furniture and Majolica ware, some of it with the metallic lustre for the manufacture of which the island was once famous. The Archduke also restored a little chapel in the garden, which contains an ancient picture of Raimondo Lulio. But it is now more than twelve years since the Archduke has visited the island.

The Majorcans excel as masons and carpenters. The mole, which forms the harbour, is as fine a piece of masonry work as is to be found in the Mediterranean. All the ashlar work of public buildings is remarkable for the fineness and exactness of the points of junction; and the vaulting, especially in the churches, displays no small mechanical skill, and even genius. Carpenters’ work is equally good; and it is interesting to see them at work, with their shops open to the streets. There are many factories in the island; and while one member of a family works on a farm, others at trades, the rest can get employment in factories. All help, and the cottage in which the family lives generally has a small garden of flowers and vegetables. All the people are decently dressed and shod and have sufficient food. The Majorcans are certainly a handsome race, the men strongly built and well set up, the young women comely and graceful.

There are no beggars, except a few cripples. Begging or seeking presents is not the habit of the people. If boys are offered small change received in a shop they will generally refuse it, saying that they have done nothing for it. The cathedral carpenter sent his boy up a tree, at the request of a stranger, to get a leaf, and he was given a shilling for want of change. Some time afterwards the same stranger was passing, and the carpenter came out with the difference between a shilling and a peseta, saying he thought that the present was intended to be a peseta and not a shilling. Information respecting land tenures, mode of cultivation, exports, and other statistics will be found in Mr. Bidwell’s ‘Balearic Islands.’30

The story of Majorca is necessarily very closely connected with the general history of Aragon and its various dependencies. It is full of chivalrous deeds and wonderful adventures, as well as of evidence of those more solid and steady efforts which indicate fine qualities in a race. Thus, in the course of centuries, the existing islanders have been formed, and they are very much what might have been expected from their history. It is a history which should have a place in the study of European progress and development; for, small though the island is, the Majorcans have been in the forefront during the Middle Ages, and even in later times, alike as men of the sword and men of the pen. A knowledge of the island’s story will furnish a number of historical associations which will, as it were, clothe the beautiful scenery with living interest. It thus appeals alike to the student who remains at home and to the traveller who visits the island.

It seems desirable to conclude with some information for the latter class of readers respecting accommodation at Palma. The hotel, which was opened a few years ago by SeÑor Albareda, faces the old church of St. Nicholas and the Zaforteza palace; while the avenue called the ‘Rambla’ is on one hand, and the ‘Paseo del Borne,’ leading to the port, on the other. It possesses every comfort and convenience, is admirably managed, and has a well-informed and most obliging landlord. This ‘Grand Hotel’ has a pleasant annex in the country, at Porto Pi, and the hotel in the beautiful valley of Soller is also comfortable and well managed. The visitor to Majorca is thus able to make himself acquainted with the lovely scenery, the history, and present condition of the island under the most advantageous conditions.

MAJORCA

PART II
Minorca

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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